Types of Watch Bands

Our sense of personal taste, style, and function doesn’t have to end with the purchase of a wristwatch. But many don’t even explore the various options available to really make a timepiece their own—or to better suit it to a specific aesthetic or activity. 

For many, a nice pair of shoes can really bring an outfit together while also offering specific functionality. A good pair of boots can help you navigate rugged terrain. A pair of basketball sneakers can give you better support for working out or training. A sleek pair of dress shoes can really elevate formal wear. 

But so many of us buy a watch and forget that we can make it our own. We’ll wear a leather band to the beach, or a NATO strap to a board meeting, or a metal bracelet to a black-tie event. And while variety is the spice of life, a timepiece is, in actuality, extraordinarily flexible if we just consider changing the band or strap from time to time. 

A watch band is, after all, shoes for your wrist, so don’t be afraid to explore the many options that can make an older watch feel new again or to make your watch even more suited to the task at hand.

History of Watch Bands 

As many may know, the first watches were essentially miniature versions of clocks, so they were still too large to be worn on the wrist. In the 16th century, these “miniature clocks” were known as pocket watches, and while they were small enough to be carried, they were typically attached to chains and worn in pockets (hence the name) or pinned onto clothing. 

The first wristwatch was created in the early 19th century by the legendary Abraham-Louis Breguet. He crafted this first wrist-worn timepiece for Queen Caroline Murat of Naples in 1810. And for much of the 19th century, pocket watches reigned supreme, with a few wrist-worn pieces created for royalty. 

The prominence of wrist-worn watches didn’t begin until the early 20th century. In 1904, Cartier designed a watch for Alberto Santos-Dumont, an aviator with a “functional” need for accessible timekeeping while flying. 

And then the start of The Great War (World War I) required a more practical timekeeping solution for combat. Soldiers began strapping watches to their wrists, using makeshift leather straps or fabric brands to secure their pocket watches onto their wrists.

The rest is history—literally! 

Most Popular Watch Band Types 

So you want to change up the look of your timepiece. Or maybe you are about to head on a scuba adventure or mountainous trek, and you want something that is more comfortable or better suited to the outdoors. 

Here at Exquisite Timepieces, we aren’t only in the business of selling luxury timepieces, but we are also in the business of informing you, our readers and clients, about the most popular watch band types that exist. 

So sit back, relax, and get ready to journey down the winding—no pun intended!—road of watch bands. It is important to note that we will cover a good portion of the different types of straps and bracelets available, but the following list is not a fully exhaustive list.

Metal Bracelets

If strength, durability, and lightplay are at the top of your list, a metal bracelet is unparalleled in offering these traits. They come in many shapes and sizes, with some types better suited to rugged wear while others bridge the difference between formal and informal attire. Every collector should have at least one good bracelet in their collection! 

Oyster

The brainchild of Rolex, the Oyster bracelet is the quintessential watch accessory. If you ask the average person to close their eyes and imagine a watch, chances are they will probably envision some type of dive watch on an Oyster bracelet. 

The broad, flat three-piece links are engineered for superior durability and comfort, making the Oyster bracelet ideal for diving or desk wear. Because these watches are often built to the highest of standards, they have micro adjustment available via their robust clasps, offering even greater flexibility for wetsuits and wrist swelling.

Jubilee

Another invention from the crown, the jubilee bracelet is made up of a five-piece structure with semi-circular links, offering a more comfortable, form-fitting wear, as well as a dressier overall look. The larger outer links are usually brushed, and the narrow inner links are polished, giving the jubilee bracelet an elegant appearance with eye-catching light play. 

The jubilee is the most appropriate bracelet for a dress watch, period. It also wears nicely on the weekend with a pair of jeans. You’d be hard-pressed to find a more versatile bracelet; while they are robust for most activities, if a demanding physical activity calls for a metal bracelet, you would be better served with an Oyster or Engineer Bracelet.

President

The final bracelet on this list that was originally conceptualized and created by Rolex, the President bracelet is a dressier and more refined version of the Oyster bracelet. It is characterized by rounder, narrower, and wider links, arranged in rows of three. There is a greater distinction and variation (depending on the model) of brushed versus polished textured surfaces, thus adding onto the lightplay and sophistication of the bracelet. 

Additionally, the President bracelet typically features a hidden clasp that maintains the sleek aesthetic, while the Oyster may have a more visible clasp design. This makes for a bracelet that is much better suited for formal occasions.

Engineer

The most underrated of metal straps that just so happens to be my favorite. Formed by rows of five narrow, tightly interlocking links, the Engineer bracelet has a unique pattern and superior wearability. Think about breaking one stick in half and then a bundle of sticks. 

The five links create a really strong and unique design, ultimately offering more “points” to conform onto the wrist, providing unmatched flexibility. This combination makes the engineer bracelet both stylish and incredibly resilient for outdoor and active wear while offering a striking visual texture that’s hard to miss.

Mesh

Pick your poison: shark mesh or Milanese. The Shark Mesh bracelet takes its design cues from the protective mesh suits used by divers to shield themselves from shark attacks. This kind of bracelet rose to prominence in the 1970s as diving watches gained popularity. Shark mesh bracelets are a bit more loosely woven when compared to their closest cousin: Milanese. 

The Milanese or “Milano” bracelet originated in 19th-century Milan, where artisans developed it as a form of chainmail. This beautiful mesh design eventually made its way into watch bracelets, offering a unique mix of flexibility, comfort, and style. With its tightly woven stainless steel mesh, the Milanese bracelet has a sleek and fluid look that, at least in my own experiences, almost wears like a “second skin,” albeit one made from metal.

Leather Straps

We’ve all owned a watch on a leather strap. Maybe it was something cheap and stiff, or perhaps it was something luxurious and buttery, but likely, it was something in the middle, taking a bit of time to break in and become your own. Leather straps are ubiquitous in the world of watches today.

Aviator/Pilot

These leather straps are often thick and padded; this was done to conform to the historically “larger” dimensions and case thickness of pilot’s watches, which had to be large to offer superior legibility during flights. 

Sometimes featuring stainless steel studs near the widest portion of the strap, the pilot’s strap is crafted from various textures, ranging from smooth (top-grain) to rough (nubuck), and comes in colors like black, tan, and mocha brown.

Bund

I’ve never owned a bund strap. Sure, I’ve tried a few on, but they are far too large for smaller wrists, in my opinion. The term “bund” comes from the German word Bundeswehr, which means “Federal Defense.” 

The bund strap is unique in that it is a regular leather strap atop a larger and wider leather baseplate. This was done, specifically for pilots, to protect wrists from temperature changes and, thus, the friction/discomfort that metal watch cases would bring onto wrists due to drastic changes in temperature.

Dress

Dress watch straps come in all shapes and sizes. Some are crafted from exotic hides such as ostrich and crocodile, and others are merely embossed so as to appear that they are made from a leather other than calf. Leather straps can be padded or unpadded, depending on the watch accompanying the strap. 

Thicker and larger watches, with multiple complications, may call for a padded strap, while thinner, elegant pieces may call for an unpadded and sleek strap. Nevertheless, when in doubt, a leather dress strap is always appropriate for formal attire and events.

Rally

These straps are inspired by motorsports, particularly automotive racing. Many chronographs come on rally straps, as these watches are specifically built for the world of automotive sports. 

Rally straps have distinctive perforations that allow the wearer’s wrist to breathe, offering a more aggressive aesthetic that is both timeless and functional. If you are looking to add a dynamic edge to your watch, or you are a car enthusiast of any sort, consider adding a rally strap to your collection. Steve McQueen would be proud! 

Fabric Straps

When the heat makes leather straps unbearably sweaty, and the frost renders metal bracelets bitingly cold, fabric straps emerge as the ultimate versatile choice: a jack of all trades, really. They can be dressed up or down, are very durable, and can be worn in water without worry.

NATO

NATO straps have a military history dating back to the 1970s. Originally designed by the British Ministry of Defense, their durability and style have made them one of the most popular watch straps available today. 

NATO straps are unique in that they have a safety flap that goes under the case to secure the watch if a spring bar breaks. Constructed from nylon, NATO straps are highly durable and ready for the battlefield, the bar, or the boardroom. 

Zulu

The Zulu strap is generally constructed from thicker nylon than its cousin, the NATO strap, though they can also be constructed from leather. The Zulu strap is based on military watch straps from the mid-20th century. 

The US military began using the Zulu style as early as the 1960s, and the name may come from the military’s use of Zulu time, which was the same as GMT or UTC time. These straps are also durable because they are a single piece of nylon that goes through and under both spring bars, ensuring that the watch isn’t lost if one bar fails. This allows for the same durability as a NATO but with less strap bulk underneath the case.

Perlon

The perlon strap is made from a light, crisp, and elastic material that offers excellent breathability, making it ideal for hot summer days or extraneous activities. One of the standout features of this braided nylon is the ability to make micro-adjustments for the perfect fit. 

Thanks to its flexible and soft construction, you can easily slide the buckle’s pin into one of the strap’s numerous perforations, ensuring a perfectly comfortable and customized fit.

Cordura

This sailcloth style strap is constructed from durable Cordura®-nylon, known for its resistance to abrasion, tears, and scuffs. These straps are well known amongst the sailing and marine industries, and offer a stylish yet comfortable solution to salt, sand, and sea! 

Rubber Straps

Rubber straps have risen in popularity since the middle of the 20th century. As watch manufacturers recognized the demand for durable, waterproof options, they started to produce rubber straps that could withstand even the harshest of aquatic environments.

Waffle

The rubber waffle strap was made famous by Captain Willard (Martin Sheen) in the iconic movie Apocalypse Now when he wore it with his Seiko 6105. The waffle strap offers a unique textured pattern that not only looks great but also helps the wrist breathe better and dry sooner if it becomes wet from water or sweat. Do you want to be as cool as Captain Willard? If so, you should consider putting a dive watch on a waffle strap! 

Tropic

Tropic straps first appeared in the 1960s, created to meet the needs of scuba diving enthusiasts who wanted waterproof watch straps that could handle the tough conditions of saltwater. Crafted from a new type of “synthetic rubber,” designed to be more resistant to saltwater and UV exposure. Tropic straps have a unique pattern that intersects style and function, with perforations to enhance breathability and water drainage, thus making the straps amphibious.

Silicone

We’ve all heard of the wonders of silicone before, but have you ever tried one on your wrist? No leather in existence can match the utter comfort and suppleness of a silicone strap. If you are looking for something that can weather any element, all while feeling supple and soft, you simply must have a silicone strap in your collection.

Choosing the Right Watch Band for You 

There are a myriad of options available when choosing the right watch band. As with anything, it is all about balancing form and function. Do you want it to look a certain way, depending on what you are wearing? Do you want it to serve a specific role? If the answer to either of these questions is no, then just choose the band that tickles your fancy. 

But if you need a strap to complete a specific look or complement a certain activity, then you can’t go wrong in considering any of the aforementioned options. I know they say that fashion doesn’t necessarily conform to comfort, but with the many materials available today, you can have fashion, function, and comfort all in one package!

How to Maintain Your Watch Bands 

Anyone who wishes to maintain their watch bands should always adhere to the manufacturer’s recommendations. That said, metal bracelets of any type can be cleaned with warm water, a mild soap, and a sponge or soft brush. Rubber straps can be cleaned in the same way, and you can also consider using a rubber conditioner every couple of months to help repel water, dirt, and stains. 

Canvas straps of any variety can be cleaned with warm water, soap, and a soft brush or sponge. They should ALWAYS be air-dried. Finally, leather straps may require a bit more maintenance, but I’ve always done really well with a horsehair brush and shoe cream or leather conditioner—neutral color of course. Brush the dirt and debris off of the strap, apply and massage a thin layer of cream onto the shoe, and give it a good brush a few minutes later. 

Conclusion 

Who would have thought that there are so many options available to dress our watches up or down and to better prepare them for the specifics of any endeavor, be it work, play, or formal engagement? 

It’s always important to consider your own unique style and taste, too. Don’t just conform, and don’t be afraid to experiment. Just because a timepiece comes with a specific strap or bracelet doesn’t mean that you aren’t allowed to change up the look! Be unique and have fun…at the end of the day, that’s what this hobby is all about.