Tudor Black Bay 54 Review (Read BEFORE You Buy!)

Another name that speaks for itself, Tudor comes with a long history in luxury watchmaking. Even though I don’t have many of them in my collection, anything new in their catalog always demands a second look.

When it comes to the Tudor Black Bay 54, you can tell it’s built for those who are adept to the ocean life. Offering a waterproof depth of 200 meters and great visibility to match, it’s an all-encompassing and affordable divers watch.

While I’m a stickler for the engineering in functionality, beauty and ensign equally matter with any high-end timepiece. This article focuses on the Tudor Black Bay 54, offering an in-depth review from every angle.

The Watch’s Backstory

Acting as a focal point to the modern Black Bay collection from Tudor, I can tell the BB 54 is pretty heritage-inspired. I initially determined this in their choice of using 54, alluding to their Oyster Prince Submariner from 1954.

This is an icon of a dive watch from the brand, and it didn’t take long for me to recognize other aspects that are built-in as a tribute.

I know this isn’t for everyone, but you can find historical references in the watch’s relatively vintage design as well. One might argue with this, but if you know anything about the background of Tudor watch design, the small details tend to stand out.

Regardless of the watchmaker, I’m always a huge fan of blending the old with the new. Although the Tudor Black Bay 54 was released back in March of 2023, it still stands as a fan favorite for many people. For me, what keeps this watch in my usual rotation is its neutrality, with a hint of bold contrast coming from the dial. 

Overall, it’s a new staple in the history of Tudor diver’s watches. You can find other Black Bay designs since the collection’s release. Black Bay 54 leads the way not only because it’s somewhat new but also due to its specific inspirations from the brand’s past.

Starting With the Case

All around, you get the strength and beauty of 316L steel. What sells me is the combination of a polished and satin finish as well. I can understand how looks alone handle a lot of the decision-making, but it’s crucial to look at all of the specs.

The case on the Black Bay 54 comes with a 37mm diameter and 11.3mm thickness, and it’s 46mm lug to lug. Don’t worry; you aren’t permanently bound to the strap either, as the lug width is only 20mm, making it more than compatible with other options.

Aside from that, the bezel on this case is pretty seamless. It’s unidirectional and is crafted with an aluminum insert. I noticed there aren’t any minute graduations on it either, which makes it all look even more uniform.

It’s unfortunate you don’t get an exhibition case back with this watch, but you do get the durability and beauty of stainless steel. However, I do salute the brand for thinking of this small detail, as the screw-in design is great for waterproofing.

Even though the crystal choice here is somewhat standard, domed sapphire plays a lot more into the look of the case than you might think. I’m a fan of this choice as it helps to make the watch case look more compact.

You won’t ever struggle with the crown, thankfully. It’s also stainless steel, and although it’s a screw-down, you won’t ever find water making its way in.

I know there are many reasons as to why Tudor is so popular, but for me, it’s their approach to the finer details. Knowing that they’re one step ahead of what I’m looking for makes me even more satisfied with having one of my own.

Looking Further Into the Dial

Revered for its vintage take on the style, the dial on the Black Bay 54 features gilt accents and the perfect amount of contrast. If you’re familiar with the watchmaker at all, then some of the dial’s features will feel a bit familiar.

More specifically, it’s the classic snowflake hour and minute hands that stand out the most to me. I can see how they’d seem bulky to some wearer, but readability is what’s important here. It’s a common feature with diver’s watches, as hands and markers need to stand out.

In the same vein, this doesn’t take away from the watch’s elegant style. I’d also like to point out the lollipop style of the seconds hand, which is a nice nod to an old-school look.

You may not immediately notice the variation with the indices as well. They’re equally bold and offer a variation of circles, rectangles, and triangles.

Of course, you can expect plenty of lume to be included as the watch is intended for low-light conditions. To help add more contrast to the gilt accents, every bit of text on the watch comes in gold as well. 

I can agree that the hands and indices are rather bulky, but this doesn’t make the whole watch seem overly large by any means. The domed sapphire and efficient use of space creates the perfect balance between design and functionality.

I think it’s also important to highlight the cream-colored look of the lume in daylight conditions. This does an impressive job of adding rich color variety among the dark dial and stylish gold accents.

The Heart of the Black Bay 54

As much as I like to look at the BB 54, what makes it all function is even more important than the visuals. The watch works off the Calibre MT5400, which is an in-house movement and a collaboration with the help of Kenissi.

Using a bi-directional rotor system, the movement is able to deliver efficient and accurate automatic winding. The 70-hour power reserve is a common feature, but definitely an important one to have with a divers watch.

I personally got pretty curious about the frequency of this movement, as the fine print always matters. The movement promises 28,800 vibrations per second, which tells me it shouldn’t have any issues being accurate with the time.

Better yet, the watch is Chronometer-certified, which adds an extra layer of reliability alongside -2/+4 seconds per day,

Although the inner parts of this movement can seem microscopic, they’re made from quality materials across the board. For example, you stainless steel and tungsten materials.

Combined with precise craftsmanship, you get durability, efficiency, and beauty all in one. Low maintenance, ease of use, and long-term reliability are what Tudor was going for here.

The watchmaker considered performance above all else, as they should from my standpoint. I’ve seen numerous luxury watches preserve visuals over long-term functionality, which always kind of rubs me the wrong the way. Tudor makes it obvious where the beauty lies, with most of the highlights being in the functionality from my point of view. 

Reviewing the Strap Options

It’s clear why most people would just go with the uniform stainless steel look, but this isn’t your only option.

The Black Bay 54 also comes in a rubber strap variety if you’re looking for a little more contrast and security. Whether you’re in or out of the water, the rubber strap offers all the secure placement you need throughout the day.

I have personally never been a huge fan of rubber straps, so the stainless steel was an easy choice for me. At the same time, part of what pulls me in this direction is their vintage choice with the three-link design.

The T-fit clasp makes adjustments a breeze, and I’m a huge fan of the fact that they include five adjustment positions. All of this can be done without the need for additional tools. Considering efficiency like this is something that’ll make the watch a daily wear for me.

You might not notice it at first, but their choice of ceramic ball bearings is part of what makes the adjustments feel so smooth.

In short, that stainless steel strap feels durable and secure without weighing you down. I like that the T-fit clasp design is part of the rubber strap as well, and it’s a more lightweight choice if it matters that much to you.

While you won’t get any additional straps purchasing a Black Bay 54, it won’t be hard to find something to swap it out with. Focusing on comfort: how a watch case and strap feel around my wrist will guide my decision-making a lot. 

The strap definitely makes this watch feel like a cohesive timepiece where the weight is balanced just right. Tudor’s are becoming more popular for my daily wears, and even though I’m not big on the water, the comfort and style of this watch are hard for me to ignore.

In my opinion, Tudor kept it simple and straightforward when it comes to the strap. The design makes it look and feel great and offers all the adjustments you might need.

This also makes it a great choice for a variety of wrist sizes, both big and small. Even though watch customizations aren’t impossible, I know I don’t want to take that route if I don’t have to.

For Daily Wear and Special Occasions

Tudor is known for its approach to luxury just as much as it is for functionality. You can see this in quite a few of their watch models, but the BB 54 stood out to me for more than one reason. For starters, almost every watch I purchase comes with the features I need in a daily wear.

The Black Bay 54 has all of that and much more on top of that. How it feels is my second focal point, and Tudor hit the nail on the head with this one. It doesn’t feel bulky or unbalanced from any angle, and it doesn’t tire out my wrist throughout the day.

Over time, I was able to determine the sweet spot for comfortable wear with this watch on wrists ranging from 5.5″ to 7″. However, the flexibility in the strap makes it more than suitable for a broad range of wrist sizes.

It’s pretty adaptable compared to many other timepieces on the market. I’ve made it pretty clear that the watch feels great, but the looks can’t be ignored, either. It’s a blend of beauty, and neutrality is the icing on the cake for what I like to wear on a daily basis.

I’m usually more prone to lean toward bold dials as well. The minor gold contrast is more than enough to ensure the watch isn’t too boring without distracting from the main colorway at the same time. I believe balance makes most things in life much better, and Tudor executed this perfectly with the design of the Black Bay 54.

Although I understand personal preference can play into a lot of these details, the craftsmanship from Tudor is hard to argue with. As I always like to say, trying it for yourself is important, but that means you need to understand what kind of investment you’re walking into.

Considering the Cost

After spending a little time with the Black Bay 54, I started to stress over how much the asking price was going to be. Once I started to feel like I wanted one of my own, it was time to dig into the retail price.

It was a breath of fresh air to discover I wasn’t going to have to go bankrupt to have one of my own. From a reputable retailer, you can find the Black Bay 54 from Tudor retailed at $4,050. Anyone in the industry understands price points will vary, but you also don’t want to be duped into overpaying.

There’s also nothing wrong with considering a previously owned BB 54. If you’re looking to save a little, taking this route can cost anywhere from $2,850 to the higher end of $3,000. It’s pretty easy to source the cost of luxury watches nowadays, but due diligence is crucial to ensure you’re getting a fair number. 

This is a great example of why Exquisite Timepieces has been my go-to since day one. They get straight to the point on what matters most and keep the fluff out of the process, which makes the whole process a lot less confusing.

Part of this also has to do with the retailer you’re working with. Industry experience and reputation matter just as much as product selection and retail price. Personally, this tends to be harder to find than I expect. Working with a retailer you can rely on for the long term is where you want to start before anything else.

The Bottom Line

You won’t have a hard time sourcing a Tudor Black Bay 54 of your own, but you don’t want to pick one up from just anywhere. For those searching for professionalism and a life-long use case, the best BB 54 is a great example of what the best of both worlds looks like.

I have owned Tudor watches in the past, but this model is now sitting at the top of my list after putting one on for myself. If you think the Black Bay 54 sounds like a great choice for you, never hesitate to reach out to us at Exquisite Timepieces for the information, support, and price points you can rely on.