Seiko SBGH291 Review

When does a watch cross the threshold from tool to luxury item? Is it a dollar threshold? A distinction of brand? Or are all time-keeping devices beyond the phone in our pocket truly a luxury item? Truth is, the definition of a tool vs. a luxury item is a sliding scale depending on the individual. One man’s Timex is another man’s Rolex just like one man’s Seiko is another man’s Grand Seiko. Despite the fact that sane people could clearly argue that any watch on your wrist is a frivolous luxury, we watch enthusiasts are different. We would like to believe that any timepiece can be a tool, fit for a purpose, and engineered to perform a task. 

The Rolex Submariner is the undisputed (just kidding, all we do as enthusiasts is dispute) king of the luxury dive watch segment. The DNA from the original tool it was designed as is still present, but the materials and execution (and price) escalate this watch into a luxury timepiece. What about our friends in the East? Seiko has just as historic a tool watch legacy dating back to the 1960s with their 62MAS. The modern interpretation of this iteration was recently covered in our review of the SPB143, a beautiful and modern tool watch in the under $1500 segment. But what about a true luxury watch to compete with the likes of the modern Rolex Submariner. For that, we turn to Grand Seiko, and we look at a late 2021 release in the SBGH291.

History

The SBGH291 is a premium dive watch offering underneath the Seiko umbrella, but it is far from the first. Where Seiko itself has a history dating back to the 1960s in the world of dive watches, Grand Seiko has a far shorter tenure in the segment. Dating back to 2008, before the Seiko/Grand Seiko brand split, the SBGA029 was Grand Seiko’s first take on a dive watch. While many people expected a premium version of the Seiko SKX with this release, they ended up receiving a watch that compared much closer to something from the likes of Rolex or Omega. The SBGA029 enjoyed a rather lengthy lifecycle, especially by today’s standards of constant refinement, but by October of 2021, this watch was ready to take another step forward with an heir worthy of the Grand Seiko name.

Case

There are a few characteristics that help to earn Grand Seiko their “Grand” designation. When comparing the SBGH291 to a Seiko Dive watch in the Prospex series, one of the first areas you will see this upgrade is in the case. The SBGH291 is formed from High-Intensity Titanium. What is so “intense” about this titanium? Well, for starters, it is harder than regular titanium providing better scratch resistance. As much of a benefit as this is to the consumer, the true benefit to High-Intensity Titanium comes in the form of a brighter finish capable of showcasing Grand Seiko’s signature Zaratsu polished finish. You can get a scratch-resistant case material from almost any manufacturer, a Zaratsu finish, however, is something truly unique to Grand Seiko. Accompanying this case is a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and stainless steel screw-down crown. The bezel insert is crafted from stainless steel as well, providing both form and function while offering a unique look and feel for this dive watch. 

Dial

If there is one thing Grand Seiko is known for among enthusiasts, it is their ability to execute a beautiful dial. The Snowflake and White Birch are both evidence of this. What truly separates Grand Seiko, however, is their ability to finish an ordinary dial to perfection. The SBGH291 features a glossy black dial with silver polished hands and indexes. Within these hands and indexes is the Seiko exclusive LumiBrite lume ensuring that this watch will glow like an absolute torch in low-light situations. This description fits almost every dive watch on the market today, but what sets this timepiece apart is the execution. Every detail has been executed at such a high level that this is one of the very few watches I would dare to take under the loupe. Even with Rolex, Tudor, and Omega watches, I have a very strict “no loupe policy”. Sometimes you are better off not knowing how things look at 5x, 10x, or 20x magnification, this Grand Seiko is an exception to this rule.

Movement

Here is where things get particularly interesting for me. While Seiko invests a majority of its energy, and rightfully so, into its revolutionary Spring Drive technology, this watch utilizes a more traditional automatic movement. The Caliber 9S85 offers a 36,000 BPH escapement providing the user with an exceptionally accurate timepiece of +5/-3 seconds per day. The movement utilizes 37 jewels to help increase longevity while also providing the end user with 55 hours of power reserve. All of these characteristics may seem rather pedestrian by Swiss standards, but this movement is one that you have to see to truly appreciate. The precision that Grand Seiko puts into their movement finishing is something you would need to spend many multiples of the asking price to see from any other manufacturer. Unfortunately, due to the tool watch nature of the SBGH291, this watch features a solid case back. Now that you won’t need to spend every spare moment gazing into the backside of your watch enjoying this beautiful mechanical marvel you should be able to spend some more time on actual adventures!

Straps

The SBGH291 is a watch that, in my opinion, looks best exactly how she came from the factory. The High-Intensity Titanium is carried over from the case through to the bracelet and the result truly is a handsome combo. Where other manufactures lean toward a simple bracelet design when accompanying a dive watch, Grand Seiko went the other direction. This 22mm bracelet provides a subtle taper to the clasp while also providing both brushed and polished center links. The overall look of this bracelet is both rugged and classy. The bracelet does not just provide an aesthetic enhancement as it is accompanied by a proper on-the-fly dive extension capable of easily fitting over any wetsuit or just providing an extra mm or 2 when you go for that extra cold beer on a hot day. You couldm, of course, swap out the bracelet for any 22mm strap you like, but outside of the occasional test drive on a NATO strap, this watch works best as it is.

On-Wrist Experience

Anyone who has ever worn a Seiko dive watch knows that measurements, although useful, don’t tell the whole story of the wearing experience. This watch comes in with a case dimension of 43.8mm wide, with a thickness of 14.7mm, and a lug-to-lug measurement of 51mm. On paper, all of these measurements fall well outside of the accepted range for my 6.5-inch wrist. But sprinkle in a little Seiko dimension magic, and all of a sudden, it might just work. The watch no doubt wears large, but it is a dive watch and carries with it a certain degree of fit for purpose. Outside of the dimension, the High-Intensity Titanium helps to reduce the case weight by over 30% when compared to the stainless steel variant of the SBGH289. Although I am generally a proponent of a slimmer and more compact dive watch, the SBGH291 is one that I can pull off, although your personal preferences may not garner the same result.

Outside of just wearing dimensions, the SBGH291 is a watch that you can wear in many situations. The classic dive watch aesthetic lends itself nicely to both office and beach, while the 200M of water resistance helps to ensure you’ll be covered either way. I would look for another watch in the watchbox if you are going to an event requiring a suit and tie unless, of course, you don’t want to take your fashion advice from a guy writing watch articles who admittedly has none himself (good call on that!).

Price & Availability

Here is the million-dollar question; How much does this thing actually cost? It’s not a Seiko Prospex and not priced like one, either. The MSRP is about $8,800, which puts you slightly under the price range of a Rolex Submariner and well above the price of a standard Omega Seamaster. So why would you pick this over either of those more established Swiss offerings? Two reasons: first, it’s readily available, and second, you can buy this pre-owned for an absolute steal! While I think that buying new makes sense most of the time as long as you can afford it, I am admittedly cheap and have expensive tastes. This combo has led me to the pre-owned section of the Exquisite Timepieces website more than a time or two. There is currently an example of the SBGH291 on the website for about $4,400, roughly half the price of MSRP. While I see the value at $8,800, I can’t help but see what watches I can flip or organs I can sell to get myself into this beast at $4,400. 

Final Thoughts

While I love what Seiko is doing with their prospex range and what Grand Seiko is doing with their beautiful dressy pieces, I can’t help but feel these tool watch offerings from Grand Seiko are currently being slept on by enthusiasts. Do they provide the stunning dial of the Snowflake? No, but there is beauty in their simple execution! Do they have 60 years of dive watch history under their belt? No, not yet, but if I was a betting man, I would put my money on watches like the SBGH291, being the models that collectors are drooling over in the next 60 years and not the watches meant to look like the ones from a generation before. 

Happy Watch Hunting!