Grand Seiko SBGM221 Review

I’ve said it several times already, but if you were to ask me which luxury watch brand everyone should experience at least once, my answer would be Grand Seiko.

This Japanese watchmaker has no shortage of incredible designs, all completely hand-finished and equipped with in-house movements.

However, with so many Grand Seiko watches to choose from, it’s not always easy to recommend a single model, especially if you’re searching for that one holy grail Grand Seiko that pretty much does it all. 

Don’t get me wrong, there are many Grand Seiko watches that I consider to be grail-worthy, and I personally have a few on my own wish list.

But if there’s one model that stands out to me, and one that I know many in the watch-reviewing community have a real soft spot for, it’s the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical GMT SBGM221. 

As its name suggests, this watch is undeniably elegant, seamlessly transitioning between an everyday watch and a sophisticated companion for formal occasions.

It features a beautifully warm cream-colored dial, well-proportioned case dimensions, and an automatic movement with a three day power reserve and a GMT complication. It’s a watch I’ve tried on multiple times, and each time, it impresses me just as much as the first. 

But today, I want to take a closer look at this particular model and explain why I believe it’s one of the best Grand Seiko watches currently available on the market.

A Little Background on the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical GMT SBGM221 

The watch we’re looking at today, the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical GMT SBGM221, is one of the most refined and well-balanced pieces in Grand Seiko’s lineup.

Sitting within the Elegance collection, this model embodies everything that makes Grand Seiko special: meticulous craftsmanship, timeless design, and technical excellence. 

At $4,900, it’s positioned at the more accessible end of Grand Seiko’s mechanical watch range. But don’t let the price fool you because this is still very much a Grand Seiko through and through, offering incredible value for what you get. And I think that’s proven strongly by the fact that this is a Grand Seiko watch that’s remained a permanent fixture in the company’s line-up for close to a decade. 

Technically, the Grand Seiko SBGM221 is part of a lineage that traces back to 2011, when the SBGM021 was first introduced.

But in 2017, Grand Seiko refreshed the model, replacing the “Seiko” branding at the 12 o’clock position with the standalone Grand Seiko logo, shifting it from its original spot at 6 o’clock.

This update marked a significant moment for the brand, reinforcing its identity as an independent high-end watchmaker, distinct from the broader Seiko lineup. 

The Elegance collection, where the SBGM221 resides, is Grand Seiko’s home for dressier timepieces. These watches focus on refined aesthetics, traditional proportions, and classic finishing, making them perfect for both formal and everyday wear.

Unlike most GMT watches, which tend to lean toward a sportier or tool-watch design, the Elegance GMT SBGM221 is a rare example of a GMT complication housed in an elegant, vintage-inspired case. 

Grand Seiko’s history itself dates back to the late 1950s, when the company set out to challenge Swiss watchmaking by producing timepieces that met the highest standards of precision, durability, and craftsmanship.

The 1967 Grand Seiko 44GS helped establish the brand’s now-iconic design language, which included sharp case angles, highly polished surfaces, and incredible attention to detail, principles that continue to shape every Grand Seiko watch today, including the Elegance GMT SBGM221. 

While the Grand Seiko SBGM221 may not be a direct reissue of a vintage model, it carries forward the Japanese watchmaker’s legacy in a way that feels both timeless and modern.

With its blend of classic proportions, high-end finishing, and a sophisticated GMT complication, it’s easy to see why this watch has earned a cult following among collectors and enthusiasts alike.

A Soft Case of Stainless Steel

The case of the Grand Seiko SBGM221 is a perfect representation of the brand’s dedication to precision and craftsmanship. Inspired by the original 62GS case design, it carries a vintage charm but has been updated with modern proportions for better wearability.

At 39.5mm in diameter, 46.9mm lug-to-lug, and 13.7mm thick, the dimensions strike a beautiful balance between presence and elegance. 

While the thickness might seem substantial on paper, the way the case is designed ensures it never feels bulky.

The distribution of height across the mid-case, exhibition caseback, and domed sapphire crystal makes the watch sit comfortably on the wrist. The curved lugs further enhance the fit, helping the watch hug the wrist rather than standing too tall. 

Grand Seiko’s finishing is among the best in the industry, and the SBGM221 showcases this expertise beautifully. The case is primarily polished using the Zaratsu technique, a traditional Japanese method that results in distortion-free mirror surfaces.

This level of finishing is rarely found even in watches at much higher price points and is a key reason why Grand Seiko watches have such a distinct, high-end look.  The Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical GMT SBGM221 uses a mix of high-polish and brushed surfaces to create contrast and depth. 

As for the bezel, it’s Zaratsu polished and kept intentionally slim, allowing the dial to take centre stage. Sitting atop is a box-shaped sapphire crystal and to further improve visibility, Grand Seiko has applied an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface, reducing glare without compromising the crystal’s clarity.

Turning the watch over reveals another piece of sapphire crystal, one secured by six screws. This exhibition case back offers an unobstructed view of the Grand Seiko caliber 9S66 working inside. 

The crown, located at 3 o’clock, is practical and well-proportioned. It’s not a screw down crown, so keep that in mind, which means the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical GMT SBGM221 is only splash resistant.

But this is as expected, since this is a dress watch after all. It would have been nice for this to be upped to 50 metres for a little more protection, but it’s not a deal breaker. The crown features the Grand Seiko emblem, subtly engraved, and offers a smooth, satisfying action when winding or setting the time.

A Creamy, Understated Dial 

For me, it’s the dial of the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical GMT SBGM221 that really sets this watch apart. At first glance, it might seem simple; just a warm, creamy ivory backdrop. But spend a little time with it, and you’ll start noticing all the little things that make it special.

For starters, it has a glossy finish that catches the light beautifully, but not in an overpowering way. Instead, it gives off a soft, refined glow that complements the polished indices and hands. It’s the kind of dial that never gets boring because every shift in lighting reveals something new. 

One of the standout features is the applied hour markers. These aren’t just stamped and stuck onto the dial, they’re individually crafted, multi-faceted, and finished to perfection.

They appear simple but up close, you’ll notice the razor-sharp edges and how they catch the light. The markers at 12, 6, and 9 are doubled, giving a bit of extra prominence to those positions, while the rest maintain that signature Grand Seiko sharpness. The finishing on these markers is so precise that you won’t find a single flaw, no matter how closely you inspect them. 

The hands follow the same philosophy being diamond-cut and polished to an insane level of perfection. The hour and minute hands are broad and angular, tapering to fine points, and the second hand is a thin, elegant needle.

Then there’s the GMT hand, which is heat-blued by hand. This isn’t some chemically treated, factory-stamped blue hand, this is real, traditional craftsmanship. The deep blue contrasts beautifully against the creamy dial, adding a subtle pop of color without overwhelming the overall look. 

Speaking of contrasts, the text on the dial is printed in black, which keeps things crisp and easy to read. The 24-hour scale is placed toward the center of the dial, maintaining a balanced layout. At 3 o’clock, you’ve got the date window, framed in a polished metallic border.

Again, Grand Seiko didn’t just slap in a standard date disc either but one with a silver background decorated in a subtle circular texture that catches the light. It’s a small detail, but one that makes a big difference.

A Weekend-Proof Movement

Inside the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical GMT SBGM221 watch beats the 9S66 automatic GMT movement, and it’s got plenty to brag about. With a solid 72-hour power reserve so you can easily take it off on a Friday and throw it back on Monday morning knowing it’ll be still running perfectly.

It also offers a smooth 28,800 vph beat rate and 35 jewels. It’s regulated to six positions for accuracy and runs within an impressive +5 to -3 seconds per day. 

One of the best things about the 9S66 is that it’s a “true” GMT, meaning the local hour hand is independently adjustable. If you’re crossing time zones, all you have to do is jump the hour hand forward or backward without stopping the movement or messing with the minutes.

Even better, the date moves along with the hour hand when you pass midnight, keeping everything in sync. Sure, this means there’s no traditional quickset for the date, but the added convenience of a proper travel GMT setup more than makes up for it. 

And then there’s the finishing. Flip the watch over, and through the exhibition case back, you’re treated to a beautifully decorated movement, complete with the Grand Seiko lion emblem subtly visible on the crystal at a certain angle.

And of course, the movement itself isn’t just about looks. Grand Seiko incorporates cutting-edge tech here, like their MEMS (Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems) manufacturing process, which allows them to produce ultra-precise, lightweight escape wheels and pallet forks.

They also use their proprietary Spron 610 alloy for the hairspring, making it highly resistant to magnetism, shocks, and temperature changes.

Straps

The Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical GMT SBGM221 comes fitted with a beautifully crafted brown crocodile leather strap, and it’s as good as you’d expect from Grand Seiko. Right out of the box, it feels broken in, supple, comfortable, and ready to wear without that stiff “new leather” phase.

The deep brown shade pairs perfectly with the warm ivory dial, and the subtle red stitching adds just a touch of character without being over the top. 

The strap is secured with a high-quality three-fold deployant clasp, which not only looks great but also helps extend the life of the leather by reducing stress on the material compared to a traditional pin buckle. It’s a small detail, but one that makes a big difference over time. 

With 19mm lugs, strap options are a little more limited than the more common 20mm size, but the drilled lugs make swapping straps easy if you do want to experiment.

And this is definitely a watch that can handle different looks. If it was me, I’d throw it on a tan or honey brown leather strap for a more casual vibe, or even a deep navy to bring out the blue GMT hand. While the crocodile strap is a perfect match for the watch’s refined aesthetic, the Grand Seiko SBGM221 is versatile enough to dress up or down depending on what you pair it with. 

On-Wrist Experience 

On the wrist, the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical GMT SBGM221 is a dream to wear. At 39.5mm in diameter and 13.7mm thick, it’s a touch taller than you might expect, but Grand Seiko has worked some magic here with the curved lugs to ensure it sits comfortably and low, hugging the wrist rather than perching awkwardly. This means it works just as well on a smaller 6-inch wrist as it does on a 7.5-inch one. 

The case design is classic Grand Seiko, with those Zaratsu-polished surfaces catching the light beautifully. It definitely has presence, but it’s not an attention-seeker. It’s refined, elegant, and effortlessly stylish.

Thanks to the warm ivory dial and that pop of blue from the GMT hand, it’s a watch that can be dressed up or down with ease. It’s right at home in a formal setting, peeking out from under a blazer sleeve, but it doesn’t feel out of place with a more relaxed weekend outfit either. 

The crocodile leather strap adds to the comfort factor, feeling soft and broken in from the start. The deployant clasp is a nice touch, making it easy to put on while also preserving the life of the leather. If you want to switch things up, the neutral tones mean it pairs well with a variety of straps.

Price & Availability

The SBGM221 has been a staple of Grand Seiko’s Elegance collection since its release in 2017, and it’s showing no signs of going anywhere. In fact, I’d argue that the collection would feel incomplete without it.

It’s one of those models that has become synonymous with the brand being a perfect balance of classic design, impeccable finishing, and everyday versatility. If it ever does leave the lineup, I believe it would only be to make room for an improved version. 

Retailing brand new for $4,900, the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical GMT SBGM221 is easily one of the most affordable high-end GMTs on the market.

There aren’t many true fliers out there at this price point, especially not from a brand with Grand Seiko’s level of craftsmanship. Other options like the Longines Spirit Zulu Time or the Tudor Black Bay GMT exist, but both lean much more towards the sporty side, while the SBGM221 retains an effortless elegance that makes it unique. 

If buying new isn’t a priority, you can also find this model on the second-hand market for around $4,000, making it an even more tempting proposition. Whether brand new or pre-owned, just be sure to purchase from an authorized Grand Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces.

Conclusion

All things considered, the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical GMT SBGM221 watch is anything but a compromise. It may sit at the more accessible end of Grand Seiko’s lineup, but every aspect of its design, finishing, and movement execution is undeniably top tier.

This is a watch that embodies everything Grand Seiko stands for, offering some of the best in terms of precision, craftsmanship, and elegance.

At $4,900, it’s a rare breed: a high-end, true GMT that delivers exceptional value without sacrificing an ounce of quality. Few watches in this price range come close to matching what the Grand Seiko SBGM221 offers, and the fact that it has remained a permanent fixture in the Elegance collection for years speaks volumes.

It’s refined but never flashy, timeless yet versatile, and packed with the kind of thoughtful details that make Grand Seiko so special.

If you’re after a luxury GMT that isn’t overly sporty to flashy but one that offers some serious watchmaking excellence in an elegant and dressy package, the Elegance GMT SBGM221 is undoubtedly one of the best options out there.