Read This Before You Buy the Rolex Air King

If someone had given me a crystal ball two years ago, I’d have happily and confidently said that the Rolex Air-King had enjoyed a good innings and predicted it was due to hang up its hat.

Why? Because nothing lasts forever, not even some of the most iconic watches in the world. Indeed, there will come a time when the Royal Oaks and Submariners of the world will be less desirable than they are now.

Perhaps not forgotten altogether, but the ever-changing tide of watch trends washes new designs ashore every week, and slowly but surely, trends are evolving, even if we don’t see the result of those transitions for another decade or so.

Even brands like Omega, TUDOR, Patek Philippe, and Grand Seiko can’t avoid it. That said, some things last longer than expected, and that can certainly be said for the Rolex Air-King. I hold my hands up.

My prediction was wrong because whilst Rolex would go on to discontinue the Air-King reference 116900, it soon followed it up with the reference 126900, and all was good with the world again.

While we’re on the topic of extending collections, I have to say that although Rolex watches are nothing short of legendary – pure excellence – genius, even the Crown brand is not the most adventurous.

Rolex remains at the forefront of indispensable grab-and-go watches, promising remarkable resistance to wear and unmatched durability and toughness throughout the industry. Why, then, does it not experiment more?

After all, it was one of the last brands to jump on board using strong, lightweight titanium for tool watches – a material that has long been used in the aerospace industry for its qualities. How did it mark the occasion, do you think? With a new collection, maybe? Nope! Just another Sea Dweller! (Sea-Dwellers are awesome, by the way!)

Anyway, what I’m saying is that what keeps Rolex admirers hanging on the brand’s every release is the prospect that one day, we might get an entirely new, off-the-wall, and unexpected design.

Until that day, however, we must learn to accept that Rolex is the king of watches because it produces cool, timeless watches for the masses, not because of its experimentation with niche concepts.

Without these successful models, it simply wouldn’t be able to churn out the million watches per year that it does. The Air-King, whether you consider it unadventurous or not, is here to stay, and the reference 126900 has some remarkable features worth mentioning if you’re considering biting the bullet on one.

The Air-King Has Changed. A Lot!

For an impressive three-decade duration (nearly four), the Rolex Air-King stayed relatively unchanged from its debut release in 1957. It grew in popularity for its no-nonsense dial and functional beauty.

The last models to honor this much-loved format were those from the 1142XX series, which launched in 2007. Although modified with some slight reworkings, it remained true to that first 1950s model in many ways. This series was eventually given the chop, only for Rolex to unleash a new Air-King design in 2016. 

If you’re familiar with the Bloodhound SCC vehicle, designed to break land speed records at supersonic speeds, you may recall the design of its dash clocks, which Rolex not only helped to design but took inspiration from when creating the new generation of Air-King watches.

Sadly, that record-breaking moment never happened, and the Bloodhound SCC went into administration. Then the pandemic hit. You could say that this series of events scuppered the Air King’s potential to become everyone’s much-loved day-to-day favorite.

But it wasn’t the brand’s most popular design by any stretch of the imagination. Even so, doomed rocket car not, Rolex stood proudly by this design and continued to produce the Air-King. 

At one point, it looked like Rolex would have nowhere to go when building on the Air-King’s design. A reinterpretation of the original design seemed like an impossibility.

Plus, a reworked Air-King, being so similar in design to the Oyster Perpetual already, would sit too close to the brand’s bread-and-butter watch. The Air-King was losing its popularity. But here’s the thing: Rolex launched another one. And it was good. So good.

A Review of the Rolex Air King 126900

The modern Air-King, released in 2022, is largely similar to the Milgauss and is considered a relatively underappreciated design.

Perhaps this can be attributed to the fact that the watch has undergone some rather significant changes over the years. After all, it hasn’t always been a tool watch.

Moreover, its classic dress watch aesthetics previously measured a compact 34mm diameter, while the dial was very minimalist. Post-2014 models, however, came in at a new 40mm diameter, compounding the need to move with the times.

The Case 

The Air-King reference 126900 is nothing like the original 5500 reference from 1957, that much we’ve established already.

However, the mix of Arabic numerals, similar to the Explorer collection, and the military-style 1940s case shape tap into niche pilot watch-collecting circles (although this isn’t a pilot’s watch in the modern form). This is the only Rolex watch that combines a crown guard case with a function-less bezel.

Loosely based on the Milgauss, it features a 40mm stainless steel case without any domed or rounded surfaces.

This should only concern those with a sub-7-inch wrist since it makes the watch appear flat against the skin. That said, the brushing on the flat areas and the polishing on the sides and the bezel is no less impressive than any other tool watch from Rolex.

The case’s design is very much Oyster, regardless of which angle you’re viewing it from. The facets of the case are sharp and angular, almost athletic-looking. Rolex gives the watch a larger lug width, which seems to be a running theme, with similar changes rolled out across the modern Submariner and Explorer II.

The case of the 126900 also features a twin-lock crown and a screwed caseback, and with the addition of the crown guard drastically changes the feel of the case on the wrist, enhancing more of a tool-like feel.

The Dial

The dial of the Air-King is different and fun. The minute markers take a little bit of getting used to, but they do challenge you to adopt a new approach to timekeeping the more time you spend wearing the watch. The first thing worth mentioning is the rich black display, which will match pretty much any outfit except for a professional suit, perhaps, since the watch’s overall design is resolutely sporty. 

In the metal, the pop of Rolex green is a nice touch and is seen in the second hand and the Rolex lettering.

The minute markers are very generously lumed and are a marked improvement compared to the previous model, which featured white gold numerals void of any luminescent material. Now, they look reminiscent of the Explorer markers, cementing subtle pilot-style cues.

The addition of the “05” numeral as opposed to the older “5” numeral is another good decision by Rolex, giving the display a stronger sense of balance and matching the “55” marker on the other side.

The Mercedes hands, although reshaped, are out in full force, too, traveling across the dial underneath a strong, flat anti-glare piece of sapphire crystal. Overall, the dial this time around feels more coherent. Many have described the dial of the Rolex Air-King ref.126900 as polarising, which I can relate to.

The layout is crisper and more defined, and the punchy green elements ramp up the sporty undertones of the watch perfectly.

The Movement 

The 2016 Air-King reference 116900 watch was marked as a superlative chronometer for the first time in its career. If you weren’t already aware, that means the movement inside its robust 905L stainless steel case has passed a series of stringent tests to ensure it meets strict quality criteria.

Rolex watches that bear this standard indicate so on the surface of their dials. The precision of these movements is tested using Rolex-developed equipment, promising an impressive accuracy within –2 to +2 seconds.

The Calibre 3131 was fitted inside a case that had just undergone one of the most drastic size increases in the brand’s history, so you can certainly appreciate that this modification took the Rolex community a while to get used to. 

Comparing the initial post-2014 iteration and the second one, some differences are worth mentioning. The case went from a round profile with polished sides to a more chiseled aesthetic with a sharper, more athletic look.

The size, however, stays the same at 40mm, although the thickness of the case has dropped from 13.1mm to a more adequate 11.59mm. This time, the case holds the Calibre 3230, the next generation of the former Calibre 3131.

The movement is another superlative chronometer that exists in other three-handed sports watches throughout the brand’s portfolio. It also performs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and makes use of a Parachrom hairspring – a component that is impervious to magnetism.

Its 70-hour power reserve also makes it a great weekend watch, running accurately from Friday through Sunday should you wish to switch it out for another favorite. This movement also employs the Chronergy escapement, which helps with this impressive power reserve with a fairly new geometry that combines a more efficient gear train with a new, improved barrel.

The Strap

The Rolex Air-King ref 126900 is fitted on an Oyster bracelet, which seamlessly delivers form and function to the wrist in equal measure. The Oysterlock clasp, engraved with the iconic brand logo, prevents you from accidentally opening the bracelet.

At the same time, the Easylink comfort extension link mechanism enables you to increase the length of the bracelet by 5mm. This is a handy feature in the summer when your wrist is contending with warm, humid environments and you’re going from a cold dip in the sea to a dry, hot beach.

The watch has no other configuration, either, so you have to enjoy it for what it is. And without endless strap options pulling you in different directions, you can fully appreciate the rugged and durable watch that Rolex intends it to be.

Everything from the tapering of the bracelet to the brushing and polishing of the link in this design is finished to the high standard one would expect of any Rolex watch.

The lug width of this Air-King is unusual, measuring 21mm, which would make shopping for alternative straps a little trickier than usual. Still, there are strap options to accommodate this size should you want to experiment with different bands over time. 

How Does It Wear? 

As aforementioned, the reference 126900 sits at a more manageable height on the wrist than the reference 116900 did.

The pronounced crown with a more notable fluted design, the safety lock clasp on the Oyster link bracelet, and the crown guard all make for an aesthetically pleasing design if the non-conventional Rolex is what you’re looking for.

As the most non-Rolex of Rolex watches, the design combines an extremely well-built construction with tight tolerances, making for a great daily beater that you should naturally be able to take anywhere.

The awkward lug width I mentioned earlier does have one advantage: it slims the case down, tapering it and enabling it to fit snugly on the wrist.

The slab sides of the watch, however, do make the watch sit relatively flat, and without that much-needed curvature, the case can appear large on slender wrists.

Looking directly at the watch from the side, you’ll likely have some gaps between the wrist and the case, and the first link of the bracelet does articulate beyond the lugs, which is unfortunate. Saying that the rest of the links contour well with the shape of the wrist and sit comfortably against the skin without snagging or rattling.

Overall, the Air-King is lighter and leaner than models like the Sub or the GMT-Master II and will behave well under the cuff of a jacket or sweater. 

Pricing and Availability 

Even though the Air-King isn’t one of the brand’s most in-demand designs, you can still expect to join a waiting list if you’re buying from new at a local stockist.

Options open up once you get on the secondary market, though. Vintage models are surprisingly affordable (starting from around $4-5000), while current models demand a higher price, with references like the 116900 still demanding prices around the $7-8000 mark.

The Air-King has always been a good entry point into the world of Rolex watch collecting, and today, this is still true for pre-owned models on the secondary market.

Although it left little room to expand upon, the reinvention of the Air-King is considered quite a polarising design by many collectors, driving prices up somewhat. Still, in the grand scheme of things, the new Air-King models are still one of the most affordable to invest in. 

The frustrating thing with Rolex watches is that you can’t just take the $7-8000 the brand wants for this watch to a local stockist and walk out with it.

However, being a relatively young model, pre-owned Air-King watches are worth the investment and, in many cases, are still in mint condition. This is certain to cut out any lengthy waiting times.

Conclusion 

There is no denying that the latest Air-King in Rolex’s catalog is unorthodox and somewhat quirky. It’s a design that seems to straddle so many different designs.

The Arabic numerals on the double-digit minute markers are not the easiest to reference and take some time to get used to. But if you’re looking for something unique, the Air-King could be the game changer you’re waiting for.

It’s an individual-looking watch that will attract one of two types of collectors – the type that backs a Rolex regardless of its design or style and the kind that is looking to add a bit of spice to the mix and wants to be proved wrong.

Although it wasn’t a head-over-heels love story for many collectors, the design works. And while this time, I’d rather not predict what the brand will do next, I shall save face and say that I hope the Air-King sticks around for the foreseeable this time.