Rolex 14060 vs 14060M: Which Submariner is Right for You? - Exquisite Timepieces
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rolex 14060 vs 14060m

Rolex 14060 vs 14060M: Which Submariner is Right for You?

Charlotte H

April 17, 2025

If you were to look at the Rolex Submariner 14060 and 14060M side by side, you’d probably struggle to spot the differences right away. After all, both models share the same dimensions, that iconic jet-black dial, and the classic Rolex Submariner aesthetic we all know and love. At first glance, they’re virtually indistinguishable. 

But, while the differences between these two models might not immediately jump out at you, they’re there, and they actually have a bigger impact on the overall feel and performance of the watch than you might expect. 

The Rolex Submariner is the ultimate “grab-and-go” watch; it’s iconic, versatile, and built to withstand just about any occasion or environment.

It’s one of those watches that seamlessly transitions from the office to the beach, pairing just as well with a suit as it does with a wetsuit. But if you’re thinking about adding one of these legendary timepieces to your collection, you might want to dive a little deeper (pun intended).

What’s subtle at first glance could be a game-changer when it comes to how the watch performs, so if you’re wanting to know the difference between the Rolex 14060 and the 14060M, keep reading…

The Rolex Submariner 14060 

The Rolex Submariner 14060 

If you’re even remotely familiar with the Rolex Submariner, then it’s likely you’ve already heard about the 14060 in passing. It’s considered a classic in the world of dive watches, and for good reason.

Released in 1988, it replaced the iconic Rolex Submariner 5513, a watch that had been a part of the brand’s history for decades.

While the 14060 certainly kept much of what made its predecessor so beloved, it also introduced a handful of important updates that made it more suited for modern use, all while still retaining its signature and timeless appeal. 

One of the key upgrades in the Submariner 14060 was the introduction of a sapphire crystal. Unlike the acrylic crystals of earlier models, sapphire offers greater scratch resistance and durability, making it an obvious choice for a tool watch like the Submariner which is explicitly designed for adventure.

Additionally, the 14060 featured the Triplock crown, which enhanced its water resistance, bringing the depth rating up to an impressive 300 meters. These small but important changes made the Rolex Submariner 14060 an even more robust diving watch, ready for just about any adventure.

The movement inside the 14060 was the automatic Rolex Caliber 3000, known for its reliability and precision. With a power reserve of around 50 hours, it offered excellent performance, making the Submariner 14060 not only a great diving companion but also a dependable everyday watch – which let’s be honest is what it’s mostly used for.

It also retained the same 40mm stainless steel case size as previous models, a classic set of Submariner proportions that fit comfortably on a variety of wrist sizes.

The dial of the Rolex 14060 comes in the iconic glossy black and originally featured applied tritium hour markers and hands, giving the watch that unmistakable vintage feel.

Early models included the “SWISS-T<25” text on the dial, signifying the use of tritium for luminescence, which was eventually phased out in the late ’90s in favor of the more modern “SWISS” marking as the industry shifted toward the use of Super-LumiNova.

This design element, while subtle, contributed to the watch’s overall aesthetic, which was clean, functional, and practical.

In fact, the 14060 is often praised for its simplicity since there’s no date window and no extra complications. There’s three hands and a rugged, no-nonsense look that allows the wearer to focus on the essentials. 

Another defining feature of the 14060 is its 40mm case, crafted from Rolex’s proprietary 904L stainless steel. Known for its resistance to corrosion and its ability to take on a beautiful finish, this material is a hallmark of Rolex craftsmanship.

The watch also boasted drilled lugs, which made strap changes quick and easy, a small touch that many enthusiasts particularly appreciate, even if it’s less common in more recent models. 

The bracelet on the 14060 was the classic 93150 Oyster, equipped with a folding clasp. While this design is often considered a bit less refined than the modern bracelets, it retains a certain charm and comfort that many collectors still admire.

It’s an example of how the 14060 strikes the perfect balance between being a true tool watch and having a certain understated elegance. The stamped end links and the slightly bulkier clasp might not compare to today’s solid-link, glidelock systems, but they are part of the character and authenticity of the watch.

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Finally, for lovers of collectible Rolex models, the Submariner 4060 is known for being the last “non-chronometer” Submariner before the brand began certifying all of its models for accuracy.

Some argue that this adds a layer of charm and purity to the 14060, as it lacks the excess text and certification labels seen on newer models. The two-line dial, noted with just “Rolex” and “Submariner”, gives it a clean, uncluttered look that many collectors find especially appealing.

The Rolex Submariner 14060M

The Rolex Submariner 14060M

Released in 1999, the Rolex Submariner 14060M was the “modified” version (hence the ‘M’ at the end of its reference number) of the beloved 14060.

With the addition of the new letter, it brought with it a few key updates that made this watch even more reliable and refined, while still keeping that classic Submariner appeal. 

The change was the movement. The 14060M was now powered by the Rolex Caliber 3130, a significant step up from the Caliber 3000 found in the earlier 14060. This movement featured a larger balance wheel and a full balance bridge, improving stability and overall performance.

It’s a movement that had been tested in other models, so it wasn’t a big leap, but it was a much-needed refinement that made the 14060M even more dependable. 

This also meant there was a small but noticeable change on the dial. In 2007, when Rolex officially submitted the 14060M for chronometer certification, the watch earned a new set of four-line text on the dial, proudly displaying the “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” marking.

While this was a great advancement in terms of performance, there are still plenty of collectors who prefer the clean, two-line dials of the earlier 14060M models. 

But while the Rolex Submariner 14060M was updated in certain areas, it still retained many of the core elements that made its predecessor, the 14060, a beloved classic. It kept the same 40mm stainless steel case, the familiar lug holes, and the no-frills Submariner look.

The dial was also the same, with a classic glossy black finish, applied hour markers and the signature clean, no-date display. The Rolex 14060M also kept the classic “hole case” design, making strap changes a breeze, and featured the 93150 Oyster bracelet with folding clasp, just like its predecessor. 

So yes, while the Rolex Submariner 14060M might have had some tweaks, its essence and the qualities that have made the Submariner a legend are very much intact. It’s a watch that will continue to look great and perform flawlessly for years, keeping its place as a true classic in Rolex’s storied history.

Rolex Submariner 14060 vs 14060M – How to Choose 

When comparing the Rolex Submariner 14060 and 14060M, it’s easy to see that both models share the same iconic look.

They both boast the classic 40mm stainless steel case, the sleek black dial with applied hour markers, and the no-date display that has become synonymous with the Submariner’s utilitarian design. They also offer the same depth rating of 300 meters, ensuring their performance in underwater conditions. 

However, the 14060M, released a decade after the 14060, does come with some key differences that could influence your decision depending on what you’re looking for in a timepiece.

The most significant change is the movement. The 14060M is equipped with the Caliber 3130, a movement that offers improved performance and stability compared to the Caliber 3000 found in the 14060. 

The Caliber 3130 boasts a larger balance wheel, a full balance bridge, and the Breguet overcoil, enhancing the watch’s precision and durability. This updated movement makes the 14060M feel a bit more refined and capable, adding an extra layer of reliability and robustness.

Additionally, models released from 2007 onward are chronometer-certified, which means they’ve passed rigorous testing set by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). 

This certification ensures that the movement meets a specific standard of accuracy within a range of -4 to +6 seconds per day making the Rolex 14060M not only more reliable but also officially recognized as a high-performance timepiece.

This added layer of quality assurance makes the 14060M a highly desirable model for watch enthusiasts who appreciate certifications of accuracy like this. 

With the chronometer-certified movement also comes the extra text on the dial. The 14060 features just two lines of text, giving it a cleaner, more vintage-inspired look. This minimalistic design is perfect for those who love the old-school charm of the Submariner.

On the other hand, the 14060M, after its 2007 upgrade, carries a four-line dial with the “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” label, indicating its chronometer certification. This adds a bit more text to the dial, which some collectors might appreciate for the added performance, while others might find it clutters an otherwise clean display. 

If you’re someone who appreciates a classic, vintage-inspired design but still wants the benefits of modern watchmaking, the 14060 is a fantastic option.

With its no-date simplicity, timeless look, and features like the sapphire crystal and 300m water resistance, it offers the Submariner’s iconic style without unnecessary complication and added text on the dial. It’s the perfect model for those who want a nod to the past, with just enough modern touches to make it a reliable everyday companion. 

However, if you’re more focused on precision and performance, or if you simply appreciate the extra stability and robustness of a modern movement, the Rolex Submariner 14060M will be the better fit for you.

The updated Caliber 3130 movement not only offers enhanced accuracy but also brings added durability with features like the full balance bridge and the Breguet overcoil. Plus, the chronometer certification of the 14060M ensures that you’re getting a timepiece with a high level of precision.

Conclusion 

At the end of the day, both the Rolex Submariner 14060 and 14060M are incredible watches, each bringing something special to the table.

If you’re someone who loves the idea of a vintage, no-frills dive watch, the 14060 will be your perfect fit. It’s got that classic, minimalist design with just enough modern upgrades to make it a reliable daily companion.

The Caliber 3000 movement may be a bit older, but it’s still rock solid, and the overall vibe of the Sub 14060 is timeless.

But, if you’re more about precision, performance, and the added peace of mind that comes with chronometer certification, the Rolex Sub 14060M will be more your style.

With the updated Caliber 3130 movement, it brings enhanced accuracy and durability, plus that extra layer of precision that comes with being chronometer certified. Sure, you’ll get a bit more text on the dial, but for those who appreciate the finer details, it’s definitely worth it.

There are other watches out there that might be more visually striking and more notably more affordable, but when it comes to a “grab-and-go” timepiece that can handle whatever life throws at it while still looking sharp and performing flawlessly, it’s hard to beat the Rolex Submariner 14060 and 14060M. Both are fantastic watches in their own right, and honestly, you can’t go wrong with either one.

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