Longines Spirit Zulu Time Review

During the Covid-19 pandemic, we became keenly aware of global events and their relationship to our own locations and situations. As the lockdown eased, we jumped over our quarantine fences, eager to travel again and cross multiple time zones on our way to new adventures.

Longines is a longstanding, storied brand that knows a great deal about travel and hurdling boundaries. Since their inception, the brand’s exceptional timepieces have played a historic role in amazing feats of trailblazers of all sorts, especially early 20th-century aviation pioneers. 

So, it’s no surprise in this renewed period of world exploration that Longines released a watch honoring these roots while offering a modern, featured-packed value proposition in the form of the Spirit Zulu Time GMT.

This review will provide a close-up look at this groundbreaking GMT watch and how Longines has positioned it as a flagship piece that captures the true “spirit” of the company’s exploration history.

About the Longines Spirit Zulu Time

The Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT debuted in 2022 and is capable of tracking multiple time zones. Traditionally, the acronym GMT has referred to “Greenwich Mean Time”, which is the Prime Meridian (representing 0˚) that runs through the courtyard of the Royal Observatory in southeast London. 

A more modern term is “UTC” or “Coordinated Universal Time”. Another older one is “Zulu Time”, signifying “zero hours”, and is derived from the NATO phonetic alphabet universally used by pilots and military personnel.

The Zulu Time’s aviation roots are clearly shown through its oversized crown, Arabic numerals, and highly legible dial. Still, the watch design follows current “new-vintage reinterpretation” trends. 

Also, it offers great build quality and execution enhanced with contemporary finishing touches, bracelets and straps featuring cutting-edge perks like a quick-change release system for fast and easy switch-outs, leather deployant straps with “on-the-fly” micro-adjustment, and a proprietary, COSC-certified movement.

The Longines Zulu Time is available in 42mm and 39mm case sizes in both steel-only and “two-tone” steel and gold, a large palette of colorways, and stainless steel bracelet, leather, and canvas NATO-style strap options that vary according to the model. 

There are currently 18 references (9 each in both 42mm and 39mm options), the majority of which are available at Exquisite Timepieces.

History of Longines Spirit Watches

Longines was founded in 1832 in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, by Auguste Agassiz. Longines is one of the oldest luxury watch manufacturers in the world, and their winged, hourglass logo dates to 1889, making it the oldest trademark still in use in its original form registered with the World Intellectual Property Organization. 

Now a part of the Swatch Group, Longines combines “old school” sensibilities with the synergistic power of economies of scale and contemporary watchmaking technology.

Among Longines’ early innovations were the world’s first monopusher chronograph in 1878 and high frequency (36,000 bph) pocket watch in 1929. Many associate the advent of GMT watches with the 1950s, but Longines staked out the multiple timezone turf much earlier. 

In 1908, the company created their first two timezone pocket watches, and in 1925, Longines launched their forerunner dual-time wristwatch, which featured the “Zulu” flag on its dial.

Longines’ archive is filled with watches carrying the stories of men and women who bravely struck out and redrew boundary lines during the rise in global exploration that marked the early 20^th century. 

Famous pilots such as Charles Lindbergh, Amelia Earhart, Howard Hughes, and Amy Johnson, as well as Arctic explorers like Paul-Emile Victor, all wore Longines watches on their adventures.

This long-standing essence of exploration animates the soul of the modern Longines “Spirit” collection, which was rolled out in 2020. The company’s goal was to combine “traditional features of pilot’s watches” and combine them with “contemporary lines and codes”. 

Since the Zulu Time’s launch in 2022, Longines has positioned it as the “crown jewel” of the Spirit collection and the perfect travel companion for contemporary adventurers possessing all levels of skill and ambition.

Longines Zulu Time: In-Depth Review

The Longines Spirit Zulu Time has been one of the hottest new GMT watches on the scene since 2022. As we drill down into its impressive specs, it will become obvious why it has become the focus of attention for so many enthusiasts and collectors.

Case Sizes & Materials

The initial case size and material offered in 2022 was all-steel with a 42mm diameter, a relatively large lug-to-lug width of 49.40mm, a lug width of 22mm, and a center thickness of 13.90mm. 

The reception was enthusiastic, but the solid end links produced an even wider fit, which did not suit a significant number of people who might have otherwise bought in, including this writer. I tried on the initial 42mm version in early 2022 in Lucerne, Switzerland, during a vacation. 

I was itching to commemorate my own “expedition” to the Swiss Alps with a GMT, but the excessive lug overhang on my 6.5-inch wrist prevented me from pulling the trigger.

Longines heard from many asking for a more universally sized, sub-40mm case. Proving themselves a company responsive to constructive feedback, Longines quickly answered with a 39mm diameter model in 2023 with a slimmer and more wrist-confirming profile and a reduced lug-to-lug width of 46.80mm, 21mm lug width, and a center-thickness of 13.50mm.

For those wanting a touch more elegance, Longines added “two-tone” Zulu Time steel models in both diameters enhanced with a 200-micron thick, 18K gold capped crown (all-gold except for the central steel inner tube) and external bezel ring. 

The crystal is domed sapphire, and the crown is slightly oversized in the manner of aviation-focused watches, making for easy grasping and smooth turning. The steel is mostly satin brushed, but the multi-faceted lugs receive a nice aesthetic boost in the form of a polished chamfered edge to enhance the transition between levels. 

The caseback is solid, secured with 6 screws to provide 100 meters of water resistance, and engraved with the Longines Zulu Time name framing a winged, hourglass logo superimposed over a stylized globe etched with latitudinal and longitudinal lines.

Bezels

The main byword to remember about the Zulu Time bezel is: Ceramic! How often do you get a richly colored, glossy ceramic bezel on a watch in this price range? Rarely.

Both diameter sizes are available in bezel colorways of black, dark green, and blue for all-steel cases, with the addition of chocolate brown for steel/18K gold case references. The 24-hour bezel is marked with white, non-lumed Arabic numerals in most models and vintage faux patina (i.e. “khaki”) in the steel/gold version. 

The bidirectional, rotating coin edge bezel turns and ratchets smoothly with 24 clicks and can be used to track two time zones with the bezel in the natural position (triangle at the 12 o’clock position) or rotated to show three (e.g., local, UTC, and UTC offset).

Dials

The Zulu Time’s dial aesthetics and execution support Longines’ strategic goal of honoring the past while embracing the future. The collection is filled with dial, bezel, and handset colors and combinations for everyone, whether a traditionalist who seeks a vintage vibe or a modernist leaning more toward contemporary design cues.

Among the 18 references in the Zulu Time collection, there are multiple dial and bezel color combinations varying according to case materials and strap/bracelet options (I’ll cover some of these in more detail under “Most Popular” models). Remember that all available combinations are obtainable in both 42mm and 39mm case diameters. 

Beyond the color palette, other dial features include baton hour and minute hands, a seconds hand with a diamond-shaped tip, and an arrow-tipped, bi-colored GMT hand. Both extend all the way to the minute track and chapter ring, creating enhanced legibility, with the GMT sitting close to the dial but high enough to clear the applied Arabic numeral hour indices.

The depth created by the indices is further enhanced by small, lumed diamond cuts in both the dial face next to each hour marker and step up chapter ring. The Zulu Time’s Super-LumiNova® illumination level is not “diver quality” but is still more than adequate for terrain activities. 

There is a date window at 6 that balances well vertically with the Longines stamp, logo, and the somewhat controversial “5 stars” emblem, which, while making for a little too much dial clutter for some tastes, is nevertheless a nod to Longines’ past use of the term to describe their watches’ superlative quality.

Movement

In the past, Longines developed and produced their own movements. However, since being acquired by the Swatch Group, the company has relied more on its stepsibling company ETA for its movements. 

The Zulu Time GMT uses the L844.4 caliber, which is derived from a base caliber ETA A31.411 that Longines and ETA modified to meet COSC-certified chronometer standards (+6/-4 seconds per day).

While not an “in-house” movement in the most technical sense, it is nonetheless a proprietary, automatic powerplant that not only attains certified chronometer performance but also features a 72-hour power reserve, 21-jewels, a beat rate of 25,200 vibrations per hour (3.5 Hz), a date complication (but no quick set), and a silicon balance spring for enhanced antimagnetic protection.

But probably the most important feature in the minds of GMT aficionados is the Zulu Time’s “true” or “traveler’s” GMT capability (as opposed to a “desk” or “calling” GMT). A “traveler” GMT is more suited for someone crossing multiple time zones since it has a “jumping” hour hand that can be changed independently of the GMT hand without interrupting the watch’s timekeeping functions. This allows globetrotters to set the new local time with the hour hand while leaving the GMT hand unchanged from one’s home time zone.

Strap Options

The Longines Zulu Time is offered with an all stainless steel bracelet, brown, blue, or beige leather strap, or brown synthetic NATO strap, depending on the reference. 

The stainless steel bracelet is a 3-link style with solid end links and mostly brushed satin finishing except for thin outer sections of the inner links, the inner edges on the outer links, and the ends of the outer links.

There is a sharp, vintage-style taper to a 2-button, fold-over Longines-stamped clasp with 5 traditional micro-adjustment settings. Pins are used to remove links for adjustments, and there is no “on-the-fly” adjustment. While not quite as refined as the case, the bracelet is nonetheless very good quality and more than up to the task of everyday wear with a sporty dash of flair.

Leather straps are high-quality calfskin and come with a convenient, “on-the-fly” micro-adjust feature operated by a two-button system on the side of the engraved, Longines signatured deployant clasp. 

Both the bracelet and straps come with a quick-change release system that allows convenient and hassle-free swap-outs of the various options. The synthetic brown NATO strap is currently available only with the steel/18K gold case models.

Most Popular Longines Spirit Zulu Time Models

Here are 5 popular Zulu Time models that demonstrate the wide range of the collection:

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Green Bezel 39mm (ref. L3.802.4.63.6)

A refined, “sweet spot”-sized 39mm diameter steel case combined with a dark green bezel and anthracite dial produces a striking appearance, and the gilt handset and indices, along with heavy faux patina, enable this piece to lean vintage and give the company’s past pioneers a full frontal hug. 

While some collectors object to the faux vintage trend in modern watches, the bonus of a matching stainless steel bracelet with contemporary perks (which costs only $100 more than leather strap references) nonetheless makes this model one of the most popular in the Zulu Time lineup.

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Black Dial 42mm (ref. L.812.4.53.6)

This reference offers a viable alternative for those who don’t favor faux vintage styling and instead want more modern design elements. 

Part of the initial 2022 42mm launch, it features a stainless steel bracelet, a white color scheme for the handset, indices and bezel markings, and a black/ black bezel-dial combination that adds sport/dress versatility paired with a playful splash of contrasting blue on the GMT hand and in the “Zulu Time” lettering on the dial.

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Blue Dial 39mm (ref. L3.802.4.93.2)

This is perhaps the boldest and most avant-garde Zulu Time reference. We could nickname it the “Triple-B” for its blue bezel, blue dial, and blue leather strap with contrasting white stitching. 

The orange tip and arrow of the GMT hand and the ‘Zulu Time’ stamp provide an additional pop of color. It’s definitely a sportier look, but remember that quick-change release system. You can dress it up or tone it down as your mood or situation dictates by spending some extra bucks for a Longines steel bracelet or beige or brown strap (or an aftermarket option).

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Two-Tone 39mm on Leather Strap (ref. L3.802.5.53.2)

If you need a little bit of precious metal in your life and on your wrist, this one is a good option. Two-hundred microns of 18K Gold cap on both the crown and bezel edge give this an upscale feel without being overstated or screaming, “Hey mister, mug me!” 

It has vintage styling and colorways that feel similar to the steel-only ref. L3.802.4.63.6, but a leather strap instead of metal tones it down even further and strengthens the deceptive “stealth wealth” sleight of hand.

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Black Dial 39mm on Leather Strap (ref. L3.802.4.53.2)

This reference packs a well-finished, stainless steel case size for a wide range of wrists, a black/black bezel-dial color scheme with a sharp snap of contrasting blue on the “Zulu Time” dial stamp and GMT hand, and a high-quality brown leather strap with white stitching. 

If not an exemplar of a “one and done” watch, it still emits a quintessential jack-of-all-trades “GADA” vibe that can walk the tightrope between dress and sport, especially with the addition of a steel bracelet.

Should You Buy a Longines Zulu Time?

If you’re in the market for one of the best all-around “true GMT” value propositions, you should definitely put the Longines Spirit Zulu Time on your shortlist— then on your wrist. I know that if I ever meet a 39mm model “in the wild” and try it on, my wallet will likely end up a little lighter.

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Pricing & Availability

The Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT is readily available (including at Exquisite Timepieces), and the retail price range, depending on the reference features, is $3,050-$4,550. Exquisite Timepieces also currently lists a preowned 42mm all-steel model for $2,300.

Conclusion

Considering Longines’ rich brand history of pioneering and the Zulu Time GMT’s unique blend of heritage, fine finishing, and cutting-edge technology that would normally only be seen in watches costing thousands more, you would be hard-pressed to find a better watch to accompany you on your travels, whether they take you to Timbuktu or simply down the street to buy milk at your local Target.

UPDATE: Since this review was written, Longines has bolstered their Zulu Time offerings with their release of an all-titanium model (ref. L3.802.1.53.6) that is already producing tremendous buzz among watch enthusiasts. The 39 mm case and bracelet are Grade 5 titanium with a gilted handset but white (no faux patina) numerals on the bi-color (half matt black, half polished black) bi-directional 24-hour bezel. At $4,275 US it’s a significant jump in price from its all-steel siblings, but the added robustness and reduced weight of titanium still make this model a surefire hit and a great value proposition.