Grand Seiko SLGC001 Review: The Watchmaker’s First Mechanical Chronograph

If you’re on the hunt for something truly unique from Grand Seiko, then you’re going to want to hear every detail about the SLGC001. Not only does it harness traditional aspects of GS sports watches, but it’s the first mechanical chronograph from the watchmaker.

There’s plenty to love about this watch, aside from the fact it’s an iconic part of the brand’s history. It hails from a popular collection of GS timepieces that are known for their sporty look, functionality, and undoubted style.

While personal preferences are always important, this watch delivers a charm and functionality that you’ll feel proud to own. Nevertheless, getting a broader look at the watch means breaking down every layer of its engineering to see what truly makes it special.

The Historical Release of the SLGC001

Hailing from the popular Evolution 9 Collection, the SLGC001 marks a new beginning for innovation in Grand Seiko sports watches. Also called the Tentagraph, it was released back in March 2023. The hype has barely simmered down due to the unique nature of the watch, inside and out.

Even from my own perspective, the true innovation behind this watch can’t be seen with just a quick look. The SLGC001 may be a newer addition to the Evolution 9 Collection, but it’s inevitably a leading star due to its mark in GS history.

While some aspects of the watch call back to the original 1967 Grand Seiko style, they’ve blended this with new-age engineering that’s bound to impress. Grand Seiko’s reputation has reached its current status for multiple reasons. 

Part of that is their track record for taking an actionable stance on the engineering that goes into their timekeepers. As they carry many watchmaking traditions, the SLGC001 is a standing example that they always have something new up their sleeve.

A Case Designed for All

The watch features a banana cambering, also known as a curved case, which helps the watch to be more adaptable to thinner and larger wrists. Although adjustments are a common angle to most watches, many people don’t want to have to mess with that too much. I was a bit worried due to my thinner wrists and the rather overhead bulky look in this case. However, I was proven wrong on the first wear, as I could feel the curved design comfortably hug my wrist.

This is something you can only determine after trying it for yourself. Grand Seiko has proven me wrong before, and this 43.2mm case looks and feels great. It finds a good balance with 15.3mm thickness, and it’s important to note that the lug-to-lug is 51.5mm. A few of these measurements may sound large and bulky to some, but certain aspects of the design compensate for this.

You’ll also be happy to know it’s built from high-intensity titanium, which is preferred for its lightweight and trusted durability. Personally, I’ve also always been a fan of the titanium look and feel over stainless steel. The double-domed sapphire crystal ensures a surprising amount of protection. Although it’s built with a beautiful Tachymeter ceramic bezel, I’d say this is what makes the watch seem so bulky.

Don’t get me wrong, I understand the useful functionality, but the white markings on top of a contrasting black bezel make the case seem somewhat large. Once you try it on and look at it from every angle, the watch delivers a much more balanced visual beauty. For what it’s worth, the case is water resistant up to 100 meters. 

It’s also built with a standard screw-down crown and features the popular contrast of brushed and Zaratsu-polished surfaces. More specifically, Grand Seiko’s choice of polished facets with brushed surfaces on the sides of the case makes for an intriguing geometric visual. If you want a stunning visual, don’t forget to check out the case back. I always prefer a see-through case back, and with the SLGC001, you get the special treat of seeing the 9SC5 movement in action.

Between the sapphire crystal, titanium case, and standout bezel, this watch definitely nails the sporty look. Don’t let the seemingly bulky size fool you, as this watch does a near-perfect job of being form-fitting. Of course, micro adjustments help with this, but you’ll learn more about that later on.

The SLGC001’s Finely Textured Dial

You might think the SLGC001’s highlight is merely a deep blue dial, but it’s much more than that up close. Taking inspiration from the night sky over Mt. Iwate, it honestly reminds me of both the night sky after sunset and the surface of the ocean.

Legibility is clearly taken into account here, as the contrasting hands and indices shine bright in day or night-time conditions. This is not only due to their polish but also because of the added Lumibrite for a little glow in the dark. The minute track takes a bit of a back seat on this one, following a railroad-like pattern around the very edge of the dial.

However, it’s important to note that the smaller sub-dials aren’t luminous. This was a smart move if you ask me, as it could have made the watch actually harder to view in low light with too many hands to focus on. While I really appreciate the look of a clean dial, the recessed chronograph subdials are a nice change of pace.

This furthers the textured and dominant look of the dial, with the added benefit of a seconds, 12-hour, and 30-minute counters. To make sure everything fits seamlessly, Grand Seiko has the date window placed succinctly at the 4:30 mark.

Regardless of the many individual yet cohesive components in the dial, all of them feature a uniform color for a solid presence on the wrist. While some people might find the hour hand somewhat bulky, I find it to be a distinguishing feature. It goes along with the sturdy look of the watch and makes it more than easy to read in low light.

An Extremely Impressive In-House Movement

Delivering automatic movement with manual winding, the SLGC001 Tentagraph is built with a Caliber 9SC5 movement. This promises a 72-hour power reserve, making it the longest-running 10-beat chronograph in the watchmaking industry. It’s also an adaptation from the 9SA5 to create a chronograph version without cutting corners on quality.

For another highlight, you can expect +5 to -3 seconds per day under controlled conditions. However, if you look at this as a daily wear, then it’s closer to an accuracy of +8 to -1 seconds. This wouldn’t be any kind of deal breaker for me, but the finite details always matter in luxury watchmaking.

It’s also able to ensure a uniform sync between all chronograph counters thanks to a three-pointed hammer. Coinciding with what you can expect from the Grand Seiko name, this movement is designed in-house. 

Part of what ensures efficient energy transfer and overall accuracy stems from the included overcoil hairspring and dual-impulse escapement. I honestly find it amazing that all of these layers can fit into such a small piece of detailed engineering. It’s something to truly marvel at, considering it’s basically the heart of the watch. It does more than just keep the watch ticking; it guarantees longevity, uniformity, and collaboration between every function.

This all may sound relatively complex to many other movements, but it’s these small details that help make the watch so special. It’s no secret that the craftsmanship that goes into such a movement is outright beautiful. In the same vein, you rarely actually get to appreciate this handy work as it’s commonly hidden inside the case. 

Thanks to the exhibition caseback of the SLGC001, you can get a close look at the impressive nature of its movement. Any time I take this watch off my wrist, the movement always catches my eye from the open case back.

Matching Quality From the Strap

When it comes to the strap, you get the same lightweight durability that’s found in the case. High-intensity titanium and a standard three-fold clasp with a push-button release. The strap lug width on the SLGC001 is 23mm. This is a bit less conventional and might make it more of a challenge to swap it out.

On the other hand, the strap is sized with push pins instead of screws, which helps to make slight adjustments easier. I’m always a fan of titanium, but how it’s brushed or polished can definitely affect how I feel about it. 

The band features a polished beveling on the edges, which I’m very thankful for. In most cases, I feel titanium looks its best with a primarily sanitized look on a timepiece. That’s exactly what we get with the band here, which plays a big role in its ability to be an everyday wear, in my opinion.

With the benefit of half-links and four micro-adjustment holes, most people should be able to get the fit they want. It’s easiest for those with wrists in the 7” to 8” range, and this is due to several design choices. A few leading examples are the possible band adjustments and the slightly curved case. As an added point, I find it more than suitable for my 6.5” wrist, and it doesn’t feel loose by any means.

You may not notice it at first, but the strap is built with a very fine taper included. This means a balanced fit at every angle of your wrist, even distribution, and a proportional feel to the watch. Although it might be a bit harder to find different fitting strap options, the drilled lugs make the process relatively easy. However, from my personal experience with the SLGC001, nothing beats the look of that titanium blend in unison between every component.

The SLGC001 Experience as a Daily Wear

Even if this GS watch is more fitting for larger wrists, I still find myself drawn to it on a daily basis. At first, I thought it was going to look too bulky on me, but it blends in better than expected. The titanium definitely stands out, but there isn’t a lot of shining or mirroring due to the many muted surfaces.

The sloped bezel also helps the watch look somewhat smaller on my wrist. If it weren’t for design choices like this, I probably would have never opted for the watch. It’s an immediate no for me if the case is too bulky, but Grand Seiko made this one work.

Although the SLGC001 definitely looks like it would feel heavy, it’s actually the complete opposite. Once again, this primarily stems from the smart choice of using high-intensity titanium here instead of stainless steel. This also adds to the overall comfort of the watch, which is part of what makes it perfect for wearing on a daily basis.

Grand Seiko did what it could to slim down its design, but the SLGC001 is still somewhat bulky. This means it will visually and physically stand out from the cuffs and won’t be easy to tuck away. It’s a sports watch, which means it tends to look best with more casual fits. Not that it wouldn’t look good in a professional environment, it just wouldn’t blend as well with more formal dress clothes.

It’s understandable why the watch’s size is a big discussion among many, but the dial is always what tends to sell me. The deep blue of this watch and its fine texture are all I need to want to look at it every day. I can’t ignore the sizing either, as it hits a sweet spot that makes it look good and feel comfortable for hours on end. I’m sure most of you can agree on the stunning qualities this watch brings to the table, but that also segues into what the price tag might look like.

Current SLGC001 Cost and Availability

The retail cost of the Grand Seiko SLGC001 is pretty straightforward, as you can easily find it at $13,700. Although it may seem pricey to some, I’d say the cost makes even sense considering what’s included. This isn’t just any other GS timepiece; it’s the first of its kind and a core part of the brand’s history.

If you’re looking to save some money and go the pre-owned route, the cost is around $9,000 to $11,000. When you take into account how new the watch is and what it has to offer, there’s no way around these prices right now. 

The best you can do is choose a retailer who won’t steer you in the wrong direction. Starting with Exquisite Timepieces is the fastest way to get an SLGC001 of your very own. Years of industry experience on top of an updated catalog means you can grab this Grand Seiko with confidence.

Let’s Wrap Up

Being Grand Seiko’s first mechanical chronograph makes this one of their biggest releases in recent years from my standpoint. It’s definitely on the higher end cost-wise, but it’s a timepiece that’ll make an impression for multiple lifetimes.

Whether you’re just looking for a beautiful daily wear or a new family heirloom, the SLGC001 fits the bill. I can see myself putting it in more of a rotation with my collection, but it’s easily my new favorite sports watch. This watch is another example of how Grand Seiko maintains its reputation through a blend of tradition and innovation.