Grand Seiko SBGW283 Review: The Mesmerizing “Kishun” Dial

Here’s a bite-sized vocabulary lesson to start. The word “epitome” can be defined as a typical or ideal example. The word “elegance” means the quality of being pleasingly ingenious and simple. Many things in the world can be described as elegant, but when it comes to Grand Seiko and their relentless pursuit of perfection, their watches truly epitomize elegance. 

The inner workings are a watchmaking marvel of complex precision and expert craftsmanship, while the dials, perhaps its most distinguishable feature, could stand alone as its own art piece. Serving as homages to the landscapes that surround their studios in Japan, the Grand Seiko philosophy of “the Nature of Time” resonates through each beautiful design that the GS logo graces.

Ever since I got into the world of watches, I have gravitated towards the works of Grand Seiko. They have always felt like more than a watch to me; it was like seeing the culmination of a generation’s relentlessness in making something that is not only elegant but perfect beyond comparison. 

To see a Grand Seiko is to witness elite artistry in the form of a wristwatch; to wear one is an honor. I was lucky enough to wear and fall hopelessly in love with the Grand Seiko SBGW283, a beautiful dress watch with a stunning light blue dial commemorating Kishun, or the start of summer.

History of the Elegance Collection

Since its inception six decades ago, the Grand Seiko brand and its team of “Takumi,” or skilled craftsmen, have dedicated their livelihoods to the integrity of perfecting the everyday wristwatch. 

In 2019, GS launched its Elegance Collection, a dress watch line made for the most essential occasions in a person’s life with stylish subtlety. This line of watches draws inspiration from the first Grand Seiko, adding modern touches and mechanical brilliance that elevate the classic design to new heights.

In April 2022, GS introduced two new gorgeous watches to its Elegance Collection, celebrating the changing seasons from its Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi Iwate Prefecture- one of them being the SBGW283.

The Case

At first glance, the case looks like a Grand Seiko watch from the 1960s. Crafted from stainless steel, this model features a modest 37.3 mm diameter—remarkably small for men’s watches at the time of its release—and a thickness of 11.7 mm, making it an ideal size for a dress watch. The box-shaped sapphire crystal makes up most of its thickness. It only offers 30 meters of water resistance, which is appropriate for a dress watch of this caliber.  

The case has a 44.3 mm lug-to-lug spacing and a lug width of 19 mm. Due to the short beveled lugs, the watch sits low and comfortably on a small wrist like mine. Some people may find that lug width disappointing due to the limited options at 19 mm, but the chances of wanting to switch the original strap are meager.  

One of my favorite things about Grand Seiko is their crowns. Seeing that GS engraving before adjusting the watches sends chills down my spine. Hand-winding has always been one of my favorite aspects of mechanical watches, and Grand Seiko clearly understands the joy it brings. 

The crown is easy to grip, and the winding mechanism produces a satisfying sound. The case, finished to ‘sparkle with quality’ through the Zaratsu polishing process, features an open-case back, allowing a glimpse into the intricate craftsmanship inside.

The Dial 

When it comes to dials, few are as iconic as those crafted by Grand Seiko. Each dial is designed to be as marvelous as the landscapes that inspire the Grand Seiko studios. Whether it’s the legendary SBGA211 ‘Snowflake’ or my personal favorite, the SBGJ273 ‘Yuka Momiji,’ each dial brilliantly reflects Japanese nature and culture through its beautiful designs.

If you’re familiar with Grand Seiko, the SBGW283 may remind you of another model within the GS dress watch family. Its simple, delicate dial follows the same design as the limited releases from November 2021, inspired by the Genbi Valley. The three elegantly minimalist watches—SBGW273, SBGW275, and SBGW277—were crafted in homage to the Kirazuri painting technique, which imparts a subtle yet distinctive glitter to each dial.

Utilizing the same Kirazuri technique, the SBGW283 features a delicate pale blue dial that glimmers tastefully under any light. Inspired by the changing seasons—specifically the transition from late spring to early summer, known in Japan as Kishun—the GS artisans drew inspiration from the skies above Mt. Iwate just before summer begins. 

It’s worth noting that the SBGW283’s companion, the SBGW285, draws inspiration from Byōka—the transition from summer to autumn—featuring a rich, deep green dial.

The light blue dial is softly textured, and the silver accents provide a striking contrast that makes the dial stand out in a way that is neither bold nor understated. As mentioned, the watch interacts beautifully with light, creating a dynamic play of reflections. The angled bezel and sharp, Zaratsu-polished hands add to its mesmerizing appeal. 

The ‘Kishun’ doesn’t have a date complication but features second and minute markers, along with the iconic GS logo and Grand Seiko lettering at the 12 o’clock position. This dial exemplifies Grand Seiko at its finest—elegant and refined in its simplicity.

The Movement

Most of the time, people notice the dial first when looking at a watch. While beauty is subjective, a luxury watch captivates both inside and out. At Grand Seiko, the elegance of a watch is reflected in the simplicity of their dials and the complexity of their movements. Intending to create the world’s best watch, the experts at GS have developed some of the most precise mechanical watches, pushing the boundaries of watchmaking.

In 1998, Grand Seiko introduced its 9S mechanical movement, ushering in a new era of watchmaking excellence. GS celebrates not only its cutting-edge microtechnology but also the craftsmen and women who have honed their skills to ensure their mechanical watches perform with peak precision. 

These watches undergo a rigorous 17-day testing phase, during which they are evaluated under three different temperatures and six positions to meet Grand Seiko’s exacting standards.

The SBGW283 is powered by the Caliber 9S64, which Grand Seiko introduced in 2011 as one of their most straightforward mechanical movements. I use the term ‘simple’ lightly; this is still a GS movement with 183 meticulously tested components, ensuring both precision and durability. 

This hand-winding mechanical watch offers a three-day, or 72-hour, power reserve so that you can take it off for the weekend, and it will still be running accurately come Monday morning. It provides a mean daily timekeeping accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds and a normal usage accuracy of +10 to -1 seconds per day.

The Strap

An elegant watch would be nothing without the strap that keeps it on your wrist. The strap on the SBGW283 is just as beautiful as the watch it carries: an unstitched dark blue crocodile leather strap and a pin buckle with the Grand Seiko logo engraving on it, giving it a real vintage look. It offers a thick calf padding on the bottom so it lays comfortably on the skin. 

When considering potential issues with the strap, the only detail that comes to mind is the 19 mm lug width. As mentioned earlier, the options for switching straps are quite limited. Some owners have consulted Grand Seiko representatives about alternatives, while others have opted for oyster-style bracelets or beige-colored straps on their ‘Kishun’. 

Personally, I find it difficult to replace the factory strap, as I’ve enjoyed my time with it, and changing it feels like tampering with a recipe for success. The SBGW283 is a stunning watch as it is—strap and all.

On-Wrist Experience

My first ‘real’ watch was the Seiko SARB017, and at the time, I felt nothing could top it. But as with any passion, you keep looking around and eventually save up for that ‘big boy’ watch. Despite the many prestigious names out there, my loyalty remained with Seiko. So, when the opportunity arose to test out the SBGW283, I couldn’t contain my excitement.

At first glance, it resembles a vintage watch with its sub-38 mm case, crocodile strap, and hand-winding movement. But this is Grand Seiko at its finest—seamlessly blending classic style with the cutting-edge technology they’ve mastered. The watch is small and incredibly comfortable, fitting perfectly on my 5.8-inch wrist.

I must admit, in a hot and humid city like mine, wearing a leather watch can become a bit tedious. However, that’s a ‘leather strap’ issue, not a reflection on the watch itself. Seeing the dial gleam in the sunlight is breathtaking. The way light reflects off the textured design almost makes the pale blue dial appear silver from certain angles.

Although it’s a dress watch, I’d wear it to work just to watch the second hand glide gracefully around the dial. This watch is a conversation starter among those who recognize the Grand Seiko brand—which might sound pretentious, but the appreciation that grows for GS after wearing one of their watches is nothing short of a life-changing revelation.

Price & Availability

The SBGW283 is priced at $4,800, which is a fair value for a watch of this caliber and available at Exquisite Timepieces. With the same level of finishing and movement as some of the higher-end Grand Seikos, this sub-5k watch offers exceptional value for your money. 

Closing Thoughts

The SBGW283 ‘Kishun’ is a remarkable addition to the Elegance Collection. This classy, understated dress watch embodies Grand Seiko’s dedication to creating timeless luxury timepieces while perfecting the art of meticulous timekeeping. It feels comfortable and light, revealing new details every time you strap it on. 

At half the price of many dress watches from other brands—and even within Grand Seiko’s own lineup—it’s an absolute gem, both to admire and to wear.