Grand Seiko SBGW279 Review: Compact, Affordable, and Gorgeous

For a watch aficionado like me (that sounds better than watch nerd, although the latter is more accurate), reviewing a stunning timepiece is a pleasure. When it comes to Grand Seiko watches, I’m almost giddy. 

This Japanese brand consistently produces watches with clean, classic lines, gorgeous dials, and accurate and reliable movements that rival anything that comes out of Switzerland.

The Grand Seiko SBGW279 Oruri is another of the brand’s triumphs. Named for a beautiful blue songbird that migrates to Japan at the start of every summer, the SBGW279 is elegant, classy, and a watch you want in your collection. Best of all, this U.S. special edition retails for less than $5,000. How do they do it? Let’s take a close look at this incredible timepiece.

History

Recent years have seen a trend toward smaller watches more in line with the case sizes of earlier times. Grand Seiko has been at the forefront of this trend, releasing a number of watches that are an homage to the first Grand Seiko watch. Released in 1960, the granddaddy of the brand was a three-hand dress watch with a 35 mm case and a brown leather strap.

With the return to smaller, more classic watches, Grand Seiko released the SBGW279 in 2022. Like its forebear, it is a basic three-hand dress watch with a smaller case and brown leather strap. Paired with a modern movement, this timepiece carries the elegance of the earlier period with the reliability and accuracy of a modern watch.

Case

The classic round case is stainless steel and measures 37.3 mm with a lug-to-lug of 44.3 mm and a slim thickness of 11.6 mm. This is significantly smaller than the 40-42 mm watches that make up most of my collection, but it does look good on my average 7.25-inch wrist. 

The smaller size only adds to the class, and the watch will easily slide under the cuffs of the dress shirts you will be wearing. The design of this watch is very well thought-out, and its dimensions reflect that.

The case has brushed and polished surfaces using Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu technique. The contrast between the surfaces adds depth and makes the case stand out in the subtle way you want a dress watch to.

The finishing creates clean lines on the lugs, adding to the elegant good looks. With Grand Seiko, small details matter and show in every watch they craft.

A box-shaped double-domed sapphire crystal makes up a good part of the thickness and protects the dial while adding to the classic lines. The exhibition case back is also covered by a sapphire crystal. The scratch resistance of the material and the anti-reflective coating ensure that you will always get a good look at the dial and movement.

The crown is a standard push-pull, which is all you need for a dress watch. It’s a bit larger in size but still pairs nicely with the aesthetic of the case, which makes it a little easier to wind. The water resistance is 30 meters, which is enough to protect your timepiece if you get caught in the rain, but this is strictly a dry land watch. Unless you’re dating a mermaid, you don’t need a dress watch underwater anyway.

Dial

I am a card-carrying member of the “It’s all about the dial” club of watch lovers. It’s where you look most of the time and the part of the watch that first catches the eye. The SBGW279 gets high marks for its dial design.

The Japanese have a reverence for nature, and the deep blue color of the dial matches the feathers of the watch’s namesake songbird. The sunray finish reacts beautifully with varying light levels, and you may almost think you have multiple dials. I have a thing for blue watches, and this is one of the nicest I have ever seen.

The stainless steel applied indices are baton-style with double batons at three, six, nine, and 12 o’clock. Matched with the stainless dauphine handset, these Zaratsu polished features contrast the dial beautifully. The Grand Seiko name and logo applied at 12 o’clock is the finishing touch on this masterpiece of a dial.

The minimalist design is exactly what you want in a high-end dress watch. It keeps excellent time and looks fantastic while doing so. It’s what we’ve all come to expect from Grand Seiko.

Movement

Grand Seiko has a great reputation for its movements that are made in-house, and the SBGW279 does not disappoint. The watch is powered by the 9S64 caliber movement. The heart of the timepiece is hand-assembled by expert craftspeople and is a manual wind, but with a very generous 72-hour power reserve, you won’t have to wind it that often. 

If you take it off Friday after work, it will still be running Monday morning. Even when you do have to wind it, it’s a great opportunity to bond with this incredible watch. I honestly enjoy looking at the dial while winding.

The movement is rated at +10 to -1 seconds per day. Each watch is adjusted at six different points for accuracy that rivals COSC standards. Thanks to the exhibition case back, you can get a good look at the movement and show it to your friends. 

It’s beautifully finished with polished and brushed surfaces, the Grand Seiko name and logo, and the movement specs in gold. Leave it to Grand Seiko to put as much thought into the appearance of the movement as they did in the dial. 

Straps

The Oruri comes with a standard strap, which is a beauty. Hand-made from crocodile leather, the brown color is a stunning contrast to the dial and makes the watch pop. 

The strap’s underside is soft and wraps nicely around the wrist, making for a comfortable wearing experience. Brown and blue complement each other perfectly. Put on a navy blue suit with a brown belt and shoes and this watch, and you will be the best-dressed person in the room.

The strap features stitching, which is contrary to most high-end Grand Seiko straps, which are stitchless. If you prefer a strap without stitches, it’s easy enough to switch out the strap, thanks to the drilled lugs.

On-Wrist Experience

Now, let’s move on to what you really want to know. What’s it like to wear the Grand Seiko SBGW279? I am happy to report it is a pleasurable experience. With its compact case, it feels light and the strap holds the watch securely but comfortably on the wrist.

As to styling the watch with your outfits, naturally, as a classic dress watch, you’ll wear it with dressier outfits from smart casual to more formal. With the blue dial, you’ll immediately think of blue shirts. 

However, as I said earlier, I am partial to blue dials, and one of the things I love about them is that darker blues are almost neutral. This dial will work with gray, white, or black shirts and will set up a nice contrast with pinks or hot colors. Thanks to the brown strap, it can also work with earth tones.

I have lots of fun putting together outfits with the Oruri, and it gives me plenty of options. The 37.3 mm case slides easily under any cuff. It does suit most small and average-sized wrists, but if your wrist is approaching 8 inches, you may find it a bit too small for your taste. 

The SBGW279 is not one of those blingy, ostentatious watches that I hate. But when someone does notice it, they will know at a glance that you are a person of style and taste. This can honestly boost your confidence.

Price & Availability

If you are interested (and why wouldn’t you be?) and considering buying a Grand Seiko SBGW279 Oruri, you can pick one up at a Grand Seiko boutique or on the brand’s website. 

A Grand Seiko authorized dealer is an ideal place to purchase this gorgeous timepiece. Exquisite Timepieces is a Grand Seiko AD. You can visit our Naples, FL boutique or purchase an Oruri on our website. By purchasing from an AD, you will get Grand Seiko’s five-year warranty. 

Another great thing about Grand Seiko watches is the price, which is far less than most luxury brands. A brand-new SBGW279 can be yours for just $4,600. If you want to go preowned, you can pick one up in the range of $3,500-$3,800.

Conclusion

Grand Seiko launched its first watch in 1960. It was a classic dress watch, and over the decades, the brand has continued to innovate and release some truly stunning watches. The SBGW279 Oruri is a tribute to that original timepiece with a modern movement. Along with the other tribute special editions, it further boosts the brand’s already sterling reputation.

Its unique and classic design, along with its accuracy and build quality, make this a watch that every lover of horology should have in their collection. When you put it on, the smile on your face will let you know that the Oruri is the bluebird of happiness.