Grand Seiko SBGN021 Review

Okay, fellow watch nerds. A question. What is the one type of watch we all must have in our collections? Some of you may have said a beefy diver. Others a sleek chronograph. Maybe you love an elegant dress watch or a cool-as-hell tourbillon. 

Think in more general terms. What we all need is a GADA watch. A timepiece that looks and feels great that we can wear with almost any outfit to almost any occasion. The type of watch that suits your GADA needs may differ from mine, but I would like to suggest a Grand Seiko reference.

You may be thinking, “Grand Seiko does dress watches, I rarely wear a suit”. Well, as it turns out, the esteemed Japanese brand does some terrific sport watches, too. One of them is the SBGN021. 

This quartz movement GMT timepiece has the stunning design, reliability, and accuracy you’d expect from Grand Seiko in a watch you could wear every day, no matter where you are headed. Let’s take a look at this GS masterpiece.

History

The beginning of the SBGN021 story is 2018, when Grand Seiko introduced the caliber 9F86 movement, the brand’s first quartz GMT. From that time on, Grand Seiko has used the movement in an ever-growing lineup of sport watches. 

In 2021, GS added three stunning GMTs to the sport collection, one of which was the SBGN021. The release of these watches celebrated the 140th anniversary of the brand, and they certainly went all out in creating a watch that can hold its own with any brand’s GMT.

With the clean lines typical of Grand Seiko and the incredible accuracy of quartz, along with the cool factor of a GMT function, this is truly a watch that would be a favorite in anyone’s stable.

Case

The 40 mm round stainless steel case features Grand Seiko’s trademark mix of brushing and Zaratsu polishing for a look that really pops and catches the light beautifully. The size works well on a variety of wrists. 

40 mm is right in the wheelhouse for my 7.25-inch wrist. The short tapered lugs put the lug-to-lug at just 46.7 mm, so the watch wears a bit smaller than a typical 40 mm case and works well on smaller wrists. 

As expected with a GMT, the case is on the thick side at 13.7 mm, but you won’t likely be wearing this with dress shirts or suits, and the thickness nicely balances the other case dimensions.

The 24-hour bezel is scratch-resistant ceramic in a deep blue that pairs well with the dial. The screw-down solid case back, along with the screw-down crown, gives it a robust 200 meters of water resistance. 

You probably don’t want to wear this watch while searching for Davy Jones’ locker, but you can certainly swim with it. The case is also anti-magnetic to 200 gauss, which is not a bad feature to have. 

The crown sits at the 4 o’clock position. Not everyone likes the asymmetry, but with the date window in the same position, the look is unique and pretty symmetrical. The crown is slightly recessed, which gives the case a narrower look. It’s the kind of sleek design we’ve come to expect from Grand Seiko.

The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protrudes slightly above the dial. This adds a bit of thickness but also contributes to the clean lines. Naturally, it is anti-reflective coated, which will let you take a good look at the stunning dial. 

Dial

Grand Seiko has a sterling reputation for many things. Perhaps what they are best known for is their dials. The colors, the textures, the complementary handsets, and the way they react to light rank the beauty of their dials high among the world’s best.

You can include the SBGN021 in that esteemed group. The deep blue dial matches that bezel and has an incredible sunburst pattern with lines radiating from the center to the edges. It reminds me of the Seiko Presage Cocktail time dials. 

In low light, you see a pretty shade of blue, but when the light hits the dial, the sunburst pops like the first rays of daylight peeking over the horizon. You may find that you have trouble taking your eyes off it. I know I do.

Sitting under the crystal at the edge of the dial is a two-tone deep and light blue day/night display. Ticks sit at the hour marks, and there are ticks for each minute on the rehaut. The 12 o’clock index is an inverted trapezoid, and there are batons at the other hours. Each of the indices has three horizontal segments, with the center filled with Grand Seiko’s Lumibrite for easy viewing at night. 

The polished stainless-steel hands match the indices and complement the dial. The hour and minute hands have Lumibrite inserts. The GMT hand is a light blue arrow with Lumibrite and matches the letters “GMT” at six o’clock. 

Sitting at 12 is the trademark Grand Seiko logo and name. The 4 o’clock date window is a subtle black numeral on a white background, so it’s easy to see without drawing attention away from the gorgeous dial. 

The dial gives the watch the sporty feel you would expect from a GMT but has an elegance more akin to a dress watch. 

Movement

The SBGN021 is powered by Grand Seiko’s in-house 9F86 quartz GMT movement. Yes, as horological enthusiasts, we tend to revere automatic movements, but don’t be so quick to dismiss this one. The SBGN021 is accurate to +/- 10 seconds per year. You won’t be adjusting the time often at all with this movement.

Then, there is the convenience of a quartz. No winding. You could put your watch in a case for a week, a month, or even a year, and it will still keep accurate time. 

The GMT function can come in handy if you travel across time zones frequently or do business with people in other parts of the country or world. 

Even if that’s not the case, consider the cool factor. I love complications on watches. Having additional functions on my wrist without having to go the smartwatch route is appealing, and the GMT function is one of my favorites.

The SBGN021 is a true GMT, meaning that you can set just the hour hand to a new time zone while leaving the GMT set to home time. The ease of use and convenience make this a good watch for those just beginning to expand their collections. 

Straps

The three-link stainless-steel bracelet is classic and sporty. It closes with a three-fold clasp. The end links have an integrated look as they sit flush against the case. This adds to the clean and elegant design. The bracelet is mostly brushed but has polished facets for a bit of contrast. 

The bracelet has a slight taper that makes it comfortable as it conforms to the wrist. With the bracelet, this timepiece weighs 170 grams. 

That’s not light, but it’s not cumbersome either, and you will quickly get used to it if you are accustomed to lighter watches. The adjustment is done using screws, and there is no micro-adjustment. However, there are half links to help get a good fit.  

The 20 mm lugs are drilled, so if you ever want to change the bracelet, it will be easy to do. Honestly, the watch looks great as is.

On-Wrist Experience

Being a sporty GADA watch, you can wear the SBGN021 with nearly any kind of outfit. Obviously, it won’t pair with anything formal, but not many of us still wear suits. Although it’s a casual timepiece, it can class up a variety of outfits from shorts and a t-shirt to chinos and a polo shirt.

The blue is a dark shade which works as a neutral color. The dial and bezel will likely coordinate with at least 90% of your wardrobe. Cool colors like greens and blues, or hot ones like reds, oranges, and yellows, can all style nicely with this watch. Earthtones look great with the blue dial, too.

The 40 mm case will suit a wide variety of wrists, from small to even many on the large side. It’s a bit hefty but not super heavy due to the quartz movement, and with the bracelet and narrow lug-to-lug, it’s comfortable to wear on a daily basis. I find the SBGN021 feels as good as any watch in my collection.

If you are a traveler, this is the watch you want to hit the road with. The GMT function is incredibly useful, as is the accurate timekeeping, and the style will work with whatever you wear in any kind of climate. The quartz accuracy will make sure you are on time for any work or play events.

Full disclosure: I don’t own one of these beauties, but I have had the pleasure of trying one several times, and it is high on my list of future purchases. 

Price & Availability

Now that you are aware of how good a watch the SBGN021 is, perhaps you’re ready to try one on and buy it. They are readily available at any Grand Seiko boutique or from the brand’s website. 

You can also get one from an authorized dealer, such as Exquisite Timepieces. If you’re in the neighborhood, stop by our Naples, FL boutique to try one on and chat with the friendly sales staff. 

You can also buy one on Exquisite Timepieces with free shipping in the U.S. As an AD, we offer the Grand Seiko a 5-year warranty. This is one of Grand Seiko’s more affordable watches at just $4,550 retail. That’s a lot of bang for your buck.

Should you decide to go the pre-owned route, you can grab a used SBGN021 for between $3,800 and $4,300.

Conclusion

Every watch enthusiast needs a true GADA watch. You need that dependable timepiece that you can wear day after day on your mundane and amazing adventures. There are many options out there, but the Grand Seiko SBGN021 deserves serious consideration. 

Sporty elegance with accuracy, reliability, along with the prestige of the Grand Seiko name, make this a watch you need to check out. Be a globetrotter, or just dress like one.