Grand Seiko SBGM253 Review: Elegance at its Finest

Taking inspiration from the vast blue skies above Mountain Iwate, the Grand Seiko SBGM253 offers pristine beauty with a unisex approach to design. It’s a celebratory release for the 25th anniversary of the unique Calibre 9S mechanical movement.

Considering it’s a limited edition Grand Seiko, you can assume it’s an automatic staple in the brand’s history. You can rely on the consistent craftsmanship of the brand, and the watch’s vibrant dial speaks to me more than many others.

Once I discovered that only 1,700 of these GS models had ever been made, I definitely started viewing them through rose-colored glasses. This review will highlight the ins and outs of the Grand Seiko SBGM253 and what makes it such a special addition to the GS Elegance collection.

Historical Significance of Grand Seiko SBGM253

The historical relevance of this watch is the fact that it’s the 25th-anniversary limited edition of the Grand Seiko 9S mechanical movement. It’s also found in the Elegance collection, meaning it will come with recognizable design choices.

More specifically, the GS SBGM253 is powered by the Calibre 9S66 movement. This can also be found in many other popular Grand Seiko watches. The SBGM253 doesn’t have a long history, as it was released back in October of 2023. However, I’d say it’s safe to assume that many enthusiasts have already got their hands on quite a few of them.

The watch’s overall design is inspired by the clear blue skies over Mt. Iwate, which can be seen from the GS Studio Shizukuishi. Once again, the watchmaker has blended significant moments in their history into a beautiful, timeless design.

Like anyone else, I like the idea of having a limited edition in my collection, but I have to know it’ll be a good fit. I was initially worried about the bright colorway, but the historical relevance to one of my favorite mechanical movements is what kept me interested.

Considering the role it plays in GS history, I’d figure that the SBGM253 will only become more valuable with time. Even with its significance as a limited edition, the Grand Seiko SBGM253 is still relatively available if you know where to look. With my first interaction, the case and dial were two aspects that I couldn’t stop looking at from every angle.

The SBGM253 Case

Starting with the case material, you get the quality of stainless steel. Although this is great for looks and durability, I’m not a fan of the weight that comes with it. Refined appearance nonetheless, it’s 39.5mm in diameter and 13.7mm thick. For me, this works just fine, but I can see where I’d make some adjustments for my thinner wrists.

When you add on the lug-to-lug length of 46.9mm, it offers a relatively compact look and feel. It also takes inspiration from the 62GS case without being a carbon copy. I always love Grand Seiko’s approach to Zaratsu-polished surfaces, as it’s always well-balanced.

Couple this with the brushed surfaces for contrast, and it creates a dimensional look that heightens its overall appearance. I’m happy they decided to give it a mirror polish on the fixed bezel, as this really supports a professional look.

The box-shaped domed sapphire crystal provides ample durability, and I’m always appreciative of the anti-reflective coating on the underside. Vintage aesthetic aside, I enjoy these small design choices that add to the whole experience for the wearer.

Better yet, all you need to sell me on this GS watch is its open caseback. It might be hidden most of the time, but I get a thrill out of seeing the mechanical movement function without error. You’ll also find the crown blends well with the case, as it’s almost unnoticeable with the distracting beauty of the dial.

Not to be confused with a diver’s watch, the SBGM253 still offers minimal water resistance up to 30m. Great for everyday wear, and shines to make a statement in any environment. I’m not really a fan of bulky watch cases, so the sleek sizing on the SBGM253 blends perfectly with my existing collection.

A Multi-Layered Look at the Dial

Easily the eye-catcher of the entire watch, the dial comes with a light blue colorway with a glint of a sunray finish. These specific colors embody the skies over Mt. Iwate and do an amazing job of capturing the look of a clear midday sky.

When rotating the watch, you’ll notice a light glimmer that comes off the surface of the dial. I truly appreciate how the color bounces off surrounding components for full-fledged vibrancy. The GMT hand offers a noticeable contrast due to its deep blue color, which is matched by the 24-hour time scale as well.

Although it’s hard to tell, the indices feature that same deep blue to contrast the surrounding stainless steel polish. I feel their choice of baton-style markers gives it a classic yet easily readable look. 

I’m a little bummed there isn’t any lume on these markers, but it’s not something I would consider to be a deal breaker. Placed at 3 o’clock, you’ll find a date window that blends seamlessly with the dial. It’s done so well that I didn’t even notice it at first until I saw it in the watch description.

A nice touch of contrasting color can also be found in the yellow-gold GS logo under the 12-hour mark. It’s a hint of luxury meant to draw the eye, and I appreciate it doesn’t muddy the beauty of the light blue in the background.

The fact that the sunray pattern on this watch is always visible brings me a simple kind of joy. Together, the light sky blue and sunray shine on the dial does an amazing job of representing beautiful open skies. Overall, the dial features the standard GMT 4 season collection look, with a limited editing approach to the finer details.

Celebrating the 9S66 Mechanical Movement

You can’t marvel at the SBGM253 without talking about the mechanical 9S66 movement, the star of the show. This is an in-house movement from Grand Seiko that includes automatic and manual winding capabilities. It’s built with a standard 72-hour power reserve, and I’m a fan of their inclusion of dual time-zone tracking.

I don’t travel all the time, but it’s a small detail they didn’t have to include, which makes it all the more special for me. You also won’t have an issue with accuracy. The SBGM253 promises +5 to -3 seconds per day when static and +10 to -1 seconds per day with normal use.

Smooth precision with time and functionality are big selling points for the overall quality of this watch. I really enjoy the firm feel of the watch crown, as it feels sturdy and doesn’t come with an overly jarring tick.

When you get down to the mechanical details, this movement only gets more amazing. Promising 28,000 vibrations per hour and the inclusion of 35 vibrant jewels, the movement matches its surrounding beauty just fine. That’s why I love an open caseback. It’s more than just functionality, and I find it to be one of the most beautiful components of any watch.

You might not notice just by looking at it, but the design of Grand Seiko movements comes with many considerations. They come with a mix of tradition and innovative technology to ensure we get the best quality without forgetting their roots.

From the limited edition watch to the included movement and choices in color and design, I find it amazing they hide pieces of their history in every layer. In short, the functionality of this movement adds to the everyday wear of the watch. It guarantees minimal need for manual adjustments, although you’re perfectly free to do so.

What About the Straps?

The case, dial, and GS movement are all focal points for obvious reasons, but I have the same meticulous interest in the strap. While stainless steel may offer a heavier feel compared to titanium, there is nothing wrong with its durable wear. It matches the case with a blend of brushed and polished finishes, which I found to be much more seamless than I expected.

I felt like my first experience with the SBGM253 was a lucky one, as it felt like a pretty snug fit. The strap does lack micro-adjustments, which was a slight disappointment for me but not a deal breaker by any means.

However, you do get the benefit of half links and screw links, which helps with slight sizing adjustments. I understand why everyone leans toward straps with micro-adjustments, but I don’t feel like that should be a significant deciding factor.

Don’t forget that you can swap out the strap if you’d like, but I’d be careful about this choice. The 19mm lug width makes the swap pretty simple, but I think the original strap’s design is flawless with the rest of the components. One slight difference in polish or design in a new strap and could throw off the entire ensemble.

This watch also doesn’t come with any additional straps included. The aesthetic of the strap on its own is gorgeous in its own right. Of course, it really shines as a compliment to the luxury and GS history the watch stands for. With the watch sitting on my wrist in all its glory, I find myself critiquing how it looks and feels in all regards.

The On-Wrist Experience

Similarly to many other Grand Seiko watches, the SBGM253 was crafted to be fitting for many common wrist sizes. The stock strap is best for wrist sizes ranging from 6 to 7.5 inches. This also explains why it felt so fitting for me, as my wrist size is somewhere in the middle here.

I really like the somewhat thick side profile of the watch and the fact that it looks sleek with a thin overhead. A lot of that comes from their choice to use a domed sapphire crystal. One thing I noticed about this watch is that it does catch on some of my long sleeves.

It’ll hide just fine in baggier clothes, but it might stick out more with professional wear. The SBGM253 is definitely one of the lighter-profile watches in my lineup, but it’s hard to ignore. Aside from the color and functionality, its significance to GS craftsmanship makes it look even better.

There’s no doubt I love this watch for many reasons, but it isn’t something I would wear every day. Merely from a styling perspective, it isn’t all that suitable for my daily wear. I’d also find myself sporting this watch in some seasons over others.

Due to the theme behind the watch’s colorway, I’d be more inclined to wear this during spring and summer. However, that doesn’t mean it won’t look flawless at any time of year. It’s evident that it’s built for everyday wear, but it wouldn’t be my first choice every day of the week. The well-balanced and sporty aesthetic of the watch doesn’t go unnoticed with the SBGM253.

Pricing and Availability

Luckily, it isn’t too hard to source pricing for this limited edition GS. At this time, the Grand Seiko SBGM253 retails for $8,350. If you happen to find a used one, you can expect the watch to still be in the $5,000 to $7,000 range.

The watch isn’t that old, and considering it’s a limited edition, there are many people who are looking to let go of theirs. Thankfully, the watch isn’t hard to find yet, but it’s important to work alongside reputable retailers.

With only 1,700 of these ever made, you should always question where you’re able to source an SBGM253. Once again, they’re still widely available on the market, but their popularity is bound to garner some false promises. 

This can easily be avoided by speaking with those who have been in the industry for years. Retailers like Exquisite Timepieces on the ins and outs from an industry and product standpoint. You never want to rush your decision with a luxury watch, but it doesn’t hurt to seek some guidance.

Final Thoughts

Grand Seiko is a name that most people know about, but few are aware of how many unique designs they actually create. Something like the SBGM253 could slip under the radar due to its limited run.

Make sure you try it on first, if possible. The vibrancy of this watch may not be for everyone, but it’s easily been my favorite blue ever since I put it on. Consider diving into the Grand Seiko SBGM253 and grab a piece of watchmaking history.