Grand Seiko SBGJ273 Review: This One’s All About the Dial

Everyone’s eye is drawn to different details—whether it’s color, size, or style. We each have our own idea of perfection, shaped by personal preferences and standards. The same applies to the watches we wear on our wrists.

As an avid movie fan and lover of anything red, when I read about the Grand Seiko limited-edition SBGA405 “Godzilla,” I was elated. But my joy quickly sank as I continued to read that this was indeed very limited. Only 650 pieces were released, making it nearly impossible to find.

After years of convincing myself that the SBGA405 was “just a novelty watch,” I started searching for something more suited to me—something smaller for my wrist, perfect for special occasions, and, of course, something red.

Lo and behold, Grand Seiko unveiled the stunning SBGJ273. In a market where high-end red dial watches are rare, the master craftsmen and women at GS created something so beautiful and exquisite they couldn’t bring themselves to make it a limited edition.

Rejoice, lovers of crimson, and bask in this gem of a timepiece crafted by one of the world’s finest watchmakers; this is the Grand Seiko SBGJ273 “Yuka-Momiji” Hi-Beat GMT.

History

As part of the Elegance Collection, the SBGJ273 joins some of Grand Seiko’s most distinguished pieces. From tributes to the original 62GS case with modern updates to designs inspired by Japan’s changing seasons, this collection adds a touch of refinement and grace to every watch. 

In 2021, Grand Seiko continued drawing inspiration from the nature surrounding their studios, creating timepieces embodying the brand’s essence—elegance, innovation, and a celebration of Japanese heritage.

Their Seasons Collection introduced four new GMT pieces, each with unique dials representing a different phase of the seasons in Japan. These phases, or sekki, are subtle but remarkable, just as the watches that pay homage to them. 

Spring, summer, fall, and winter each had their own watch, with distinct designs representing specific sekki. The SBGJ251 “Shunbun” had a green dial with rose gold accents to capture the essence of the Spring equinox, while the SBGJ249 “Shōsho” featured a light blue wave-textured dial symbolizing early summer. 

Both models were powered by the Hi-Beat 36000 movement. In contrast, the SBGE271 “Kanro” with its black dial embodied the autumn night, and the SBGE269 “Tōji” displayed a beautifully textured white dial representing the Winter solstice—both driven by the Spring Drive movement.

These were wonderful releases with little to critique, but the GMT market already had plenty of watches with white, black, and green dials. 

Then, in April 2023, Grand Seiko revealed the SBGJ273, and the world stopped to marvel at the images. Could it be? A red dial GMT, not loud or flashy, but elegantly poised in its design. Indeed it was. By September 2023, the SBGJ273 was released to the public, receiving widespread acclaim.

Case

As noted, the case design of Grand Seiko watches in the Elegance Collection pays clear homage to the original GS case from the 1960s. With modern updates and the addition of Zaratsu polishing, these cases are as pristine as the dials they encase.

The SBGJ273’s stainless steel case measures a refined 39.5 mm in diameter, ideal for a standout dress watch. It has a 46 mm lug-to-lug width. The band is 19 mm wide and features drilled lugs—a convenient touch for those who like to switch out the bracelet.

The thickness, on the other hand, makes this watch taller than the average dress watch. At 14.1 mm thick, the “Yuka-Momiji” sits on the wrist with its noticeable thickness. However, the case is designed with angled slopes and curved lugs that’ll make the watch sit comfortably on any wrist. 

The thickness is primarily due to the boxed double-domed crystal sitting on top of the dial. The glass looks raised, which is most likely to protect the bezel from getting scratched; this just adds to its vintage dressy look.

The appearance of the SBGJ273 is truly captivating, largely due to its complete Zaratsu polishing. While many models combine Zaratsu with brushed finishing, this watch features an entirely Zaratsu-polished bezel, lugs, and case sides. This meticulous finishing gives the case a mirror-like quality, reflecting light beautifully from every angle.

The see-through caseback lets you see the Hi-Beat 9S86 at work, which is always my preference. The vintage screwed-down crown with the engraved GS logo sits at the 3 o’clock marker. Considering that this is a dress watch, the SBGJ273 only offers 30 meters of water resistance. 

Dial

Of course, the star of the show is the “Yuka-Momiji” dial—an astonishing autumn red with a beautifully lacquered design. Understanding the inspiration behind the dial is as simple as knowing the meaning of “Yuka-Momiji.”

“Yuka” means floor, and “Momiji” refers to the red maple leaves during autumn. The dial’s inspiration comes from the reflection of these vibrant leaves on the wooden floorboards of a Buddhist temple in Japan.

The dial features vertical lines and subtle grooves, capturing the essence of a wooden floorboard. If I’ve ever remarked on a Grand Seiko dial playing with light (which I often have), forget that. The SBGJ273’s dial truly comes alive in any lighting, thriving under every shade.

Typically, the dial presents a darker, burgundy shade with hints of orange that subtly masks its intricate lines, giving it an almost seductive allure. Red, the color of passion, draws the wearer in, urging them to bring the watch into the light to unveil its true brilliance. Once illuminated, the SBGJ273 transforms into a striking crimson masterpiece, gleaming and revealing its captivating design from every angle.

The hour indices are Zaratsu-polished, with the 6, 9, and 12 markers featuring double indices for added emphasis, while a silver-plated date window sits neatly at the 3 o’clock position. The hour and minute dauphine hands are also meticulously crafted, showcasing the same masterful Zaratsu finishing.

Unlike other GMT watches I’ve reviewed, the SBGJ273 places its GMT markers directly on the dial. The silver even-numbered markers are positioned just below the hour indices, adding a subtle contrast without making the dial feel overcrowded. Instead, it enhances the overall design with an extra layer of depth and balance.

Speaking of contrast, the gold accents on the GMT hand and lettering introduce a striking splash of color. This gold hue is yet another homage to the warm tones of autumn leaves, perfectly complementing the rich red of the dial. Since the GMT markers are on the dial, the GMT hand is slightly shorter, ensuring easier readability without overwhelming the design.

As usual, the shining silver Grand Seiko logo sits proudly below the 12 o’clock position. At first glance, all these elements may sound like they could overwhelm the dial, and that’s a fair concern. 

The “Yuka-Momiji” dial certainly has its share of intricate details, but seeing them in person reveals just how masterfully they’re executed—precise, perfectly spaced, and undeniably stunning.

Movement

It’s no surprise that a Grand Seiko movement commands as much admiration as the dial it powers. Grand Seiko dials are undeniably stunning, and the SBGJ273 exemplifies this. 

Yet, what truly sets Grand Seiko apart is their relentless pursuit of crafting the most precise horological masterpieces in the world. Without this dedication to precision, they’d simply be another watch brand.

The advancements made to their original quartz and mechanical watches earned Grand Seiko a reputation for exceptional accuracy and precision. Far ahead of their competition, Grand Seiko understood that to continue improving, they had to push the boundaries of what a traditional watch could achieve.

The result: a Spring Drive movement that merges quartz-powered accuracy with the torque of a mechanical watch, producing a smoothly gliding second hand, and the Hi-Beat 36000. 

Considered the pinnacle of mechanical movements, the Hi-Beat boasts 36,000 oscillations per hour—equivalent to 10 beats per second—delivering exceptional accuracy and precision.

The SBGJ273 is powered by the Caliber 9S86. With automatic movement and manual winding, the Caliber 9S86 offers an impressive accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds a day with a 55-hour power reserve. What separates this movement from its predecessor, the 9S85, is the addition of a GMT complication. 

Although it’s not a Spring Drive, the Hi-Beat movement remains impressively smooth. Watching the second hand sweep, it’s hard to believe it’s actually starting and stopping ten times per second. 

While most watches operate at an average of 22,000 to 28,000 vibrations per hour, the 36,000 oscillations per hour of the Hi-Beat is truly something to marvel at.

This GMT feature is a sleek and innovative upgrade to traditional GMT watches. Powered by the Caliber 9S86, adjusting the local hour while traveling is effortless—just pull the crown to the first position and move the hour hand. 

You can adjust it in either direction to match the time zone without interrupting the Hi-Beat second hand, making the process smooth and seamless. Overall, the “Yuka-Momiji” stands as a true GMT in every sense.

Bracelet

The bracelet that comes with the SBGJ273 is a wonderful complement to an already sensational watch. It has the classic Grand Seiko three-link design with a brushed matte-like finish on the outside parts on the links and Zaratsu finishing on the inner parts.

The links are secured with screws, and half links are included for finer adjustments. I bring this up because the bracelet lacks a micro-adjustment feature. Personally, I didn’t find it to be an issue. 

Despite having a smaller wrist, sizing the bracelet wasn’t a problem. I don’t think Grand Seiko overlooked the micro-adjustment; rather, it seems they crafted the bracelet so well that it simply doesn’t need one.

The 19mm lug width means that finding straps to replace the bracelet is a tedious mission but not impossible. In the next section, I’ll talk more about switching straps, but know that the drilled holes in the lugs are basically a subtle invitation to switch as you please. 

To me, the clasp of a Grand Seiko is a work of art. There is something magical about seeing the engraved GS logo just before strapping on your watch to start the day. The SBGJ273 comes in a single-fold twin-trigger release clasp with no micro-adjustments, as previously mentioned, giving it more of a sleek, vintage look. 

On The Wrist

Before I start praising the SBGJ273, I must point out that its thickness is quite noticeable. It sits on the wrist with a commanding presence—tall and slightly heavy. The “Yuka-Momiji” is far from being a delicate dress watch.

Although it belongs to the Elegance Collection, I don’t consider this a dress watch at all. It is undeniably elegant, with its beautifully designed case, mirror-like finish, and curved lugs that fit seamlessly on any wrist. Despite the bold red dial, it pairs effortlessly with any formal attire and carries an overall vintage appeal.

Despite that, the “Yuka-Momiji” is an absolute show-stopper of a watch. It is the perfect watch for the fall season, and as someone who doesn’t live in a city where the seasons can be fully appreciated, this is as close as I can get to the authentic fall feel. 

This watch is a breath of fresh air, especially given the scarcity of GMTs with red dials. But it’s not just any red—it transitions from a deep burgundy to autumn orange and then to a vibrant, fiery red. The lacquered floorboard design is like a work of art on the dial, far more impressive in person than I initially expected.

Since having the chance to test the “Yuka-Momiji,” it quickly became my daily wear. I used the GMT feature on a short trip abroad, and it made me eager to travel more. Surprisingly, the 24-hour markers on the dial didn’t make it feel cluttered at all.

The combination of gold and silver accents brings even more vibrancy to the red dial. The Zaratsu finishing on the indices and the shifting hues depending on the light make the dial come alive. It’s these subtle, intricate design details that define Grand Seiko and its exceptional craftsmanship.

I found myself in awe every day when I got the chance to analyze the dial and decided to experiment with several leather straps; most were darker shades of brown, and one was dark red that paired with the dial perfectly. In fact, I got stopped more often when I had a leather strap on than the original strap.

The SBGJ273 is a comfortable fit for small to mid-sized wrists and feels more like a sportier watch, considering that this is a GMT, after all. Though it won’t slide under tight cuffs, this is a watch fit for any occasion to wear as you please. 

Price and Availability

The SBGJ273 is an excellent timepiece to add to any collection, big or small. It sells for a retail price of $7,100 and could be sold for anywhere between $4,000 and $4,500 in the pre-owned market. The “Yuka-Momiji” is available for purchase at the Exquisite Timepieces website today. 

Closing Thoughts

“Yuka-Momiji” is now etched into my little book of favorites. Compact in size, packed with innovative technology, and graced with a stunning red dial. Is it thicker than most dress watches? Sure. Only 30 meters of water resistance? Fair enough. 

But beyond those minor points, this is the perfect GMT watch for any collector seeking a pièce de résistance—or for anyone who loves red and wants a piece of horological heritage on their wrist.