Grand Seiko SBGJ267 Review

There are so many GMT watches to choose from. There are well-known models like the GMT-Master from Rolex and the Seamaster Planet Ocean from Omega, and there are some watches that are lesser known but still deserve just as much attention. 

For me, one of these collections is the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT. It’s a series of watches based upon the Japanese watchmaker’s “Grand Seiko Style” design language inspired by the original 44GS launched in 1967. 

But these aren’t old-school timepieces in any shape or form. They are brilliantly designed from a steel alloy that looks and wears better than standard stainless steel, plus they uniquely present their GMT complication on a dial that’s more complex than any other GMT watch I’ve seen. 

They’re also powered by an in-house high-frequency movement. And all this comes at a retail price of less than $8,000. Yes, that’s significantly more affordable than those by Rolex and Omega. 

But did the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT watch’s specs live up to the hype after being on the wrist for a week? I got hands-on with one to find out, specifically reference SBGJ267, a boutique edition with a beautiful navy blue dial.

A 2023 Upgrade

When it launched in 2023, the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT collection flew under the radar for a lot of collectors. 

Not because it wasn’t impressive, but merely because there were so many other incredible releases out at the time, including some by Grand Seiko themselves (I’m still not quite over the Grand Seiko Tentagraph). Plus, it was a subtle refresh to an already existing collection. But one that was needed. 

The 2023 Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT collection wasn’t about reinventing the wheel but about refining something classic. The family features five new references, each replacing an older model. 

For instance, the SBGH299 (time-and-date, silver dial) stepped in for the SBGH277, while the SBGJ263 GMT (silver dial) replaced the SBGJ201. There’s also the time-and-date SBGH301 (dark gray dial) to replace the lighter gray SBGH279 and the GMT SBGJ265 taking over the SBGJ203. 

There was also a stunning GMT boutique exclusive under reference SBGJ267. This one boasts a stunning blue dial and is the very model I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing this past week. 

The changes made, although subtle, suggested they’d make a big improvement to overall wearability. Grand Seiko tweaked the dials, cases, and bracelets to bring everything just a touch more up-to-date, keeping these watches feeling fresh while staying true to their roots. 

The dials, for example, now feature intricate textures inspired by Mt. Iwate, a breathtaking mountain near GS’s Shizukuishi Watch Studio. It’s a nod to their heritage and is truthfully a sight to behold.

But, the biggest change is the material used for the case and bracelet. Each Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT watch features the brand’s Ever Brilliant Steel. A material that’s tougher, more corrosion-resistant, and boasts a brighter, whiter finish than traditional stainless steel.

Ever Brilliant Steel vs Standard Steel

Before I get into the minute details of the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267, I want to first explain exactly what the difference is between Grand Seiko’s Ever Brilliant steel and the standard stainless steel used on most watches. Because, ultimately, it’s this material (among other things), that helps this watch stand out against its competition.

Ever Brilliant Steel isn’t just regular stainless steel, but an alloy that has a PREN (Pitting Resistance Equivalent Number) that’s 1.7 times higher than what you’ll find in the steel used for most luxury watches. Translation? It’s way better at standing up to things like rust and corrosion. While most watches are often made from 316L steel, Ever Brilliant Steel is known as 904L steel. 

Over time, normal stainless steel can start to lose its luster, especially if you’re wearing your watch in humid or salty environments. Meanwhile, Ever Brilliant Steel keeps looking fresh and shiny way longer. It’s also got this super bright, almost white finish that gives the watch an extra pop of elegance compared to the usual grayish tone of standard steel.

The Ever-Brilliant Steel Case

As I mentioned earlier, the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 draws its design inspiration from the original 44GS, a 1967 release that established the iconic “Grammar of Design”. 

This watch defined the sharp, clean aesthetic Grand Seiko is now famous for. The SBGJ267 case stays true to that legacy with a breathtaking mix of curves, angles, and flat surfaces to create a sleek, sophisticated presence on the wrist. 

Measuring 40mm in diameter and 14.4mm in height, the GMT model isn’t the slimmest, but there’s a good reason for that. The added thickness accommodates the intricate movement and GMT complication. There’s an added hand, after all, so the case needs to make room for that. Despite this, the watch doesn’t feel bulky, thanks to its well-balanced proportions and 50mm lug-to-lug length. It may struggle under a super-tight shirt cuff but will fit comfortably beneath most sleeves. 

The Ever-Brilliant Steel used for the case elevates the design even further. This proprietary alloy gives the watch an almost white, radiant finish that stands out from traditional stainless steel. It’s also highly resistant to corrosion, ensuring the case retains its pristine appearance for years. 

Then there’s the Zaratsu polishing, a hallmark of Grand Seiko craftsmanship. Achieving this flawless, mirror-like finish is no small feat since it takes artisans years to master the skill, which involves pressing the metal against a spinning tin plate. 

The result is a surface so reflective and distortion-free that you can practically use it as a mirror. While most of the cases are Zaratsu polished, carefully placed brushed sections add subtle contrast and emphasis to the angular architecture. 

The case of the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 also includes a screw-down crown at 3 o’clock, knurled and embossed with the GS logo, giving the watch a 100-meter water resistance. This allows the release to straddle the line between a dress watch and a sports watch. It could easily be worn as both. 

The double-domed sapphire crystal on top adds a vintage touch that nods to the 1960s 44GS while showcasing the dial beautifully. It features added anti-reflective coating for improved legibility and scratch resistance. 

Flip the Grand Seiko watch over, and you’ll find a screw-down case back with a sapphire window and a finely detailed beaded edge, drawing attention to the stunning movement inside.

The Intricate Navy Dial 

While I am undoubtedly impressed by the case of the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 watch, I could also stare at its dial for a lifetime. 

I’ve said it so many times at this point, but Grand Seiko are truly the masters of dial design. They are never short of inspiration from their home country, bringing to life their Japanese heritage through intricate and masterful textures and colors. 

For the SBGJ267, Grand Seiko uses their iconic Mt. Iwate pattern, inspired by the ridged surfaces of the mountain visible from their Shizukuishi Studio, where all their mechanical watches are born. 

The pattern is super fine and subtle, scattering out from the center in a sunburst effect. But it’s not just any ordinary sunburst dial, it’s more like the scatter of snow or rain. Its super fine, super detailed and super pretty. For me, Grand Seiko dials will always be better than Rolexes for this reason. 

This intricate texture also plays a huge part in the color of the dial. It mostly appears as a rich navy, but catch it in the right light, and it can shift to a lighter hue or even a deep, almost-black shade. It’s endlessly fascinating. 

The layout is a little different for Grand Seiko, too. Instead of the 24-hour GMT scale being on the dial’s inner section, it’s placed neatly on the rehaut, keeping the main dial clean and minimal. The rest of the hardware is classic Grand Seiko. There are razor-sharp dauphine-style hour and minute hands, brushed on top and polished along the edges. 

The hand-applied indices are equally stunning, faceted like tiny gemstones with a mix of brushed and polished finishes that catch the light beautifully. Like the case, all the hardware is hand-finished and made using diamond-tipped milling tools to create this exceptional shine and gleam.

Adding to the mix is the rose gold GMT hand, which pops against the blue dial while staying elegant and legible. At 3 o’clock, there’s a polished-framed date window with a crisp black-on-white date wheel. The rest of the dial keeps things balanced, with the Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock and movement info at 6 o’clock.

The Hi-Beat GMT Movement

The beating heart of the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 is the in-house Caliber 9S86. The movement is yet another highlight of this release, known as a high-frequency automatic winding caliber that beats at 5Hz or 36,000 vibrations per hour.

This means it has super high levels of accuracy and a buttery-smooth motion for the second hand. The movement also boasts a 55-hour power reserve and an accuracy rated at -3 to +5 seconds per day, a rating that beats even COSC certification. 

The Caliber 9S86 is also a traveler’s GMT movement, a complication that’s perfect for those who like to hop between timezones. 

Unlike “office” GMT watches, where the 24-hour hand is independently adjustable, the local hour hand here can be adjusted in one-hour increments—both forwards and backward—while the minute and GMT hands remain unaffected. 

This is a game-changer for frequent flyers since you just pop the crown into its second position, move the hour hand, and you’re set without messing up the minutes or the additional time zone displayed by the 24-hour hand. 

The movement is also beautiful to look at, visible through the watch’s sapphire case back. As with everything, Grand Seiko spares no effort in its finishing, with 37 jewels nestled into a movement adorned with intricate striping and polishing.

The Ever-Brilliant Bracelet

The bracelet on the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 is also beautiful, but it is the only part of the watch I have some criticism of. It’s crafted from the same Ever Brilliant Steel as the case, so it matches perfectly in both durability and shine. 

It also has a wonderful architecture featuring staggered links in alignment, size, and finish to create this amazing light play as it catches the light from every angle. The polished edges and rolled, beveled link edges give it a refined look, while the inner flanks of the links are polished. The rest of the bracelet is brushed. It’s a fantastic combination of sharp and smooth, elegant and rugged.

The clasp is a twin-trigger release, so it’s secure and doesn’t just pop open easily, which is a nice touch for peace of mind. The Grand Seiko logo is embossed on the outside in relief, adding a subtle but classy touch. 

There are half links at both ends, so you can get pretty close to perfect fit. Plus, the bracelet has screw links for easy adjustments, which is a relief for anyone who has had to deal with pin links before.

However, here’s the downside: there’s no micro-adjustment on the clasp. It’s a bit of a miss since micro-adjustment is such an important feature on metal bracelets. It would make fine-tuning the fit a lot easier, especially on warm days when your wrist might swell a bit. I do wish Grand Seiko would take the time to refine their metal bracelets this way, but that said, it’s not a deal-breaker for me. But it’s something to keep in mind if you’re a stickler for precision.

On the upside, the 19mm lug width, despite being a bit of an odd size, makes finding alternate straps possible, and you’ve got drilled lugs to make swapping them out easy. Plus, if this watch sounds a little large in its dimensions for you, I reckon placing it on a leather or textile strap would make it a lot more wearable.

On-Wrist Experience

The Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 wears beautifully on the wrist thanks to its well-proportioned 40mm diameter and lug-to-lug measurement of 50mm. It feels comfortable and secure, fitting a wide range of wrist sizes, from 6 inches to 7.5 inches. At 159 grams, it’s not too heavy, but there’s definitely some presence to it. It’s just the right amount of weight to feel substantial without being overly bulky.

The slightly thicker case might be a drawback for some, but part of this is put down to the domed sapphire crystal. It does mean it’s not ideal for sliding under formal shirt cuffs, so it would suit sportier wear better. 

Although, to be honest, I would still wear this for dressier occasions. I’d just make sure my shirt cuffs weren’t too tight. Simply put, the Grand Seiko SBGJ267 feels as beautiful as it looks.

Price & Availability

If you’re interested in purchasing the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 watch, there are a few things to keep in mind. 

For starters, this is a boutique-only edition, which means it’s only available at select Grand Seiko stores and authorized Grand Seiko retailers around the world. Thankfully, Exquisite Timepieces is one of the same. 

Brand new, the Grand Seiko SBGJ267 retails for $7,500, which is honestly really impressive for a GMT watch made from a luxury metal with a hand-crafted case and dial, full metal bracelet and an in-house high-frequency movement. 

I’m pretty sure there are no other GMT watches finished to this standard with this level of technology for a price even close to this. You might be able to find the model on the second-hand market, too, if you’re working with a smaller budget. A quick look online, and I saw a few pre-owned references for around $6,000.

Conclusion

In my opinion, the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 watch is one of the best GMT watches on the market, especially when you consider its price. There’s a level of precision, craftsmanship, and attention to detail here that’s hard to beat. 

It ticks every box for a fantastic GMT: precision, functionality, a healthy 55-hour power reserve, and a durable yet stunning case made from Ever-Brilliant Steel. If you asked me to choose between this and the Rolex GMT-Master, I’d pick the Grand Seiko every time.

Yes, the bracelet could be improved with some micro adjustment, but I’ll be honest: I’m too distracted by how incredible the dial looks even to notice. The Mt. Iwate pattern is nothing short of mesmerizing and I do have hope they’ll release this watch, or at least something similar, in some more non-traditional dial colors soon to spice things up further.