Grand Seiko SBGJ259 Review: An Elegant and Functional Option

Have you ever looked at something—a painting, a scene in a movie, a moment in nature during a walk, or even just a fleeting glimpse amidst the hustle and bustle of daily life—and felt completely inspired?

The master craftsmen and women at Grand Seiko have made a lasting impression on the watchmaking world with their nature-inspired dials, a hallmark of the brand for over two decades.

Since the release of the iconic “Snowflake” SBGA211 in 2005, Grand Seiko has consistently crafted beautifully colored and textured dials, each one as impressive—if not more so—than the last. As the dials have evolved in detail, the movements within have become increasingly intricate as well.

Grand Seiko’s mastery lies in its ability to blend aesthetic beauty with technical excellence, creating watches that evoke emotion and leave enthusiasts in awe. 

Its dedication to craftsmanship is evident in every timepiece it produces, from the intricate movements to the stunning, nature-inspired designs. A perfect example of this is the beautifully crafted, bamboo-inspired “Urban Bamboo” SBGJ259.

History

In September 2022, Grand Seiko introduced two more nature-inspired watches to its Heritage collection. Both watches are stunning in beauty and showcase remarkable micro-technological craftsmanship. They were released exclusively in the US.

One of these was the SBGJ261, featuring an eccentric blue peacock-inspired dial. The other is a more subdued, tranquil piece inspired by the bamboo gardens of Japan—the SBGJ259, the subject of this article.

Before discussing its beauty in detail, it’s essential to discuss the historical significance behind the SBGJ259’s case design, the “Grand Seiko Style” 44GS.

Seven years after the first Grand Seiko was released, Chief Designer Taro Tanaka realized that perfecting a watch meant not only focusing on precision but also making it aesthetically striking. This led to the creation of the 44GS design, embodying the philosophy that a timepiece should “sparkle with quality.”

The skilled artisans of Grand Seiko then began working on watches that featured flat surfaces and two-dimensional curves. The cases, dials, and hands were designed to be wide, distortion-free, and mirror-polished, resulting in the iconic look of the 44GS style.

In 1967, Grand Seiko released its 44GS with its “Grand Seiko style” case and established the design that would be the staple of their case production. In 2014, GS released the SBGJ005, a nearly identical remake of the 44GS model with a modern touch and the high-beat GMT Caliber 9S86. 

2022 marked the 55th anniversary of the 44GS, and Grand Seiko released several models, including the SBGJ259, in homage to the design that set the new standard.

Case

Now that we’ve covered the history let’s dive into what makes this legendary case design both mesmerizing and comfortable.

The “Urban Bamboo” SBGJ259 features a 40mm stainless steel case with a 46.2mm lug-to-lug span and a lug width of about 19mm. At 14mm thick, it may seem substantial, but this is due primarily to the domed sapphire crystal and the automatic movement housed inside. Still, it slides easily under a sleeve, making it suitable for dressier occasions.

It features an open case back that allows you to see the Caliber 9S86 at work. The screwed-down crown is at the 3 o’clock position with the famed GS logo engraved at the tip and is 100 meters water resistant. 

The true mark of quality is in the finishing and polishing of the case, beginning with the bezel, which gleams with the signature Zaratsu polishing that Grand Seiko is renowned for. The sapphire crystal that protrudes slightly over the mirror-finished bezel to protect it from any potential scratches. 

The case has multiple faceted surfaces and angles, all polished using the Zaratsu method, ensuring a clear, distortion-free finish that you can admire from any angle. The sloped sides of the case and bezel not only make the watch appear slimmer but also allow it to sit comfortably on the wrist.

Honestly speaking, this case needs to be seen in person to understand how incredibly detailed it is genuinely. Grand Seiko is known for its Zaratsu polishing, but on the SBGJ259, it feels like something brand new. The way light reflects off every angle and Zaratsu-finished surface is astounding. It is a light, compact case that emphasizes masterful quality and attention to detail. 

Dial

When I first laid eyes on the SBGJ259, I was immediately reminded of Grand Seiko’s deep connection to Japanese nature and culture. What I’ve come to understand about GS and the philosophy that drives their craftsmanship is perfectly reflected in this dial: meticulous and serene.

I also noticed similarities in texture and design between the SBGJ259 and other models like the SBGJ273 “Yuka Momiji” and the SBGH269 “Autumn”. While captivating in their own way, their red dials don’t convey the same sense of tranquility as the SBGJ259’s green dial. 

The “Urban Bamboo” dial was inspired by the Nezu Museum and Garden, more specifically, the bamboo garden path. The piece was made to pay tribute to the museum’s designer, Kengo Kuma. The vertical lines are meant to resemble the bamboo trees that grow around the museum. 

Under different lighting, especially sunlight, the dial reveals various shades of green and the intricate details within each “stem” of the bamboo design, enhancing its organic and natural feel. 

The silver Dauphine hands are Zaratsu-polished, multi-faceted, and complement the dial beautifully. The rectangular hour markers, including the dual marker at 12 o’clock, are also multi-faceted. This precision is achieved by artisans using diamond-tipped milling tools, allowing them to craft the finest details with incredible accuracy.

As a GMT watch, the inner chapter ring serves as a 24-hour scale, making it easier to track timezones. The even numbers are displayed in silver, while the odd numbers are marked with silver triangles. Beneath this, the minute indicators appear in white for enhanced legibility.

A bright silver GS logo rests below the 12 o’clock marker, followed by the Grand Seiko lettering in white. Above the 6 o’clock position, you’ll find reminders of the watch’s automatic movement and its high-beat 36,000 frequency, both in white, while the GMT lettering is presented in a yellowish-lime green, matching the GMT hand.

A sleek date window sits at the 3 o’clock position, framed in polished silver with black numerals on a white background. Each element of this watch stands out individually yet comes together harmoniously. While the dial is undeniably the highlight, it’s hard to overlook the way the seconds hand glides smoothly around the face, reminiscent of a hummingbird in flight. This dial exudes a sense of calm like no other watch I’ve worn.

Movement

How does this watch perform the way it does? In true Grand Seiko fashion, the in-house Caliber 9S86 is a mechanical hi-beat 36000 GMT that is yet another embodiment of the brand’s mission to craft a movement that is high frequency, accurate, and durable. 

The Caliber 9S86 offers an astonishing daily accuracy rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day and a 55-hour power reserve; these same specs are provided on its predecessor, the Caliber 9S85. 

The main difference between the two movements is, of course, the GMT complication integrated into the 9S86. The GMT hand tracks the home time zone, while the hour hand can be adjusted by pulling the crown to its first position, making it easy to set according to the local time zone when traveling.

Since the hour hand can be independently adjusted, it won’t interfere with the second hand, allowing for a quick correction without compromising the accuracy of the Hi-beat 36,000 movement. This means you can pull the crown, adjust the time, and the watch will maintain its precision.

I’ve mentioned the Hi-beat 36,000 several times without fully explaining it, so here’s the breakdown: Most mechanical watch movements operate at 21,600 to 28,800 vibrations per hour, which equals six to eight beats per second. 

Grand Seiko engineered the Hi-beat movement to run at 10 beats per second, or 36,000 vibrations per hour, significantly improving accuracy. This is made possible by Grand Seiko’s use of Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems (MEMS) technology, introduced in 2009, which enables the creation of highly precise components similar to high-powered semiconductors.

Thanks to the precision of MEMS technology, it produces parts that make the overall movement lighter, more durable, and significantly more accurate than standard mechanical watches. Leave it to the developers at Grand Seiko to continually push the boundaries, ensuring each timepiece isn’t just a product but a genuine advancement in horology.

Bracelets and Straps

The strap on our SBGJ259 looks like a mixture of a sports bracelet and a dress bracelet. It feels light and more flexible than most bracelets, but that seems to be the standard with most Grand Seiko bracelets. 

It comes in the Grand Seiko five-link design with matted large links, and Zaratsu polished smaller links. It also features rolled bevels and polished side faces. The contrast between the brushed and polished finish on the bracelets stands out when paired with the case. 

The bracelet is secured by screwed links and includes half-links on each side for adjustments, although the clasp lacks micro-adjustment holes. The clasp itself is a single-fold steel design with a twin-trigger release, and the GS logo is elegantly engraved on the satin-finished buckle.

With a 19mm lug width, the “Urban Bamboo” may limit your options for replacement straps. However, switching straps is made easier with drilled lugs for quick changes.

On The Wrist

The SBGJ259 is an absolute delight to wear. I don’t travel as much, but luckily, I had to take a trip to the other side of the country while testing out this beauty. It is a fantastic hybrid of a dress watch and a tool watch. I didn’t plan on going to the beach with the “Urban Bamboo,” but I thought since it was the last days of summer, why not take this bright, fun watch out in the sun?

I did not regret my decision whatsoever. The dial on the SBGJ259 shines under the brightest of lights. The shades of green, the faceted Dauphin hands, the Zaratsu finished case; all these elements came together in beautiful harmony. I basked in its near-holographic appearance and was entranced by the details of the dial time and time again.

This watch can also be worn for a special occasion. It is comfortable to wear with a long sleeve and doesn’t interfere with the outfit whatsoever. I had to wear it (I didn’t have to wear it, but when you’re given a chance to wear a Grand Seiko, you better take advantage of it) to a three-day work conference, and it never got in the way of anything except the workflow whenever someone noticed the dial and came up to ask what I was wearing. 

Light, compact, and elegant, the SBGJ259 is a great everyday watch for anyone wanting to wear a fun timepiece with revolutionary technology and a dial with a color that is rare in the GMT market. 

Price & Availability

The SBGJ259 “Urban Bamboo” is a US-exclusive watch with a retail price of $6,800. The pre-owned price for this piece comes out to around $5,000, according to WatchCharts. This watch is available today at Exquisite Timepieces. 

Closing Thoughts

This watch is different. Looking at the “Urban Bamboo,” I appreciated the time and craftsmanship that went into creating something so beautiful. This isn’t just a watch—it’s a work of art, as can be said for many of Grand Seiko’s nature-inspired dials. To me, the SBGJ259 is art in its purest form. If it can move you, stir emotions with a glance, or change how you view something, then it isn’t just a watch anymore. The SBGJ259 is a Grand Seiko masterpiece.