Grand Seiko SBGJ255 Review: A 55th Anniversary Limited Edition

As a commemorative gesture to the 44GS, which coined the Grand Seiko style, the watchmaker created the SBGJ255. The style of this watch definitely holds up to the status of a 55th anniversary and makes for a clean-looking statement piece.

You’ll find that the SBGJ255 features the same original 44GS look. However, it also comes with many unique design choices that make it stand out on its own. The watch was released in 2022, but it’ll be talked about for many years to come due to what it represents.

Choosing a luxury watch comes with several questions, but getting into the details of the components can help guide the decision-making process. In this article, you’ll learn everything you need to know about the Grand Seiko SBGJ255.

An Iconic Addition to the 44GS Lineage

Although the SBGJ225 was released back in 2022, interest in the watch still stands strong to this day. It features the notable aspects of the original Grand Seiko 44GS from 1967, with modern elements that’ll make you take a second look.

I respect the design choices that went into this 55th-anniversary limited edition, but what sold me was the fact it’s part of the Heritage collection. The historical significance on top of the simplistic design choices is perfect from my standpoint.

Considering it’s a limited edition, many enthusiasts are happy to get their hands on one. Even though you can find the SBGJ255 online, that doesn’t mean you should wait too long to shop around. This watch itself may not have a long history on the market, but the callback to the 1967 44GS inevitably makes it a timeless addition to the GS lineup.

Looking Into the Case

With a 40mm diameter, the case on this watch features a pretty standard size that looks great on most average wrist sizes. I’m always thankful for an open case back, as looking at the internal movement going to work is a beautiful sight to see. It’s important to note that the watch takes aspects from the 44GS style, but it isn’t an identical model or reissue.

I appreciate the case’s nice shine due to the Zaratsu polishing. For a little contrast, Grand Seiko always makes sure to add a little variation, which can be seen in the hints of brushed titanium.

A few other classic elements of this watch include a curved sideline, a polished bezel, and dual-curved sapphire crystal. The flat surface of the case is free of distortion. The small details make me take a deeper look, and the case delivers a uniformity that’s easy to marvel at.

The watch may be fitting for many different people, but the sizable nature of the case can feel more prominent from any angle. For me, this isn’t so much a deal breaker, but understandably, many people might not prefer a bulkier case.

I was a bit surprised by the half-recessed crown and their choice of a reverse-slanted bezel. It isn’t something I expected, but I love that Grand Seiko took this route. It makes for a much more uniform and pristine look, among other features. Some say that the case is thick and bulky, and although this is true to some degree, I can’t really say it’s a deal breaker. Maybe for some, but the case size blends perfectly with all of the surrounding features from my point of view.

Dialing In on the Details

At a glance, the dial may seem relatively simple, but there’s a surprising amount of detail put into every aspect of it. I have always loved a good colorway, but I’m really looking for how that color looks in the dial texture. The SBGJ255 comes with a vertical grain texture that looks great from every angle, and it’s known to be inspired by shōji screens.

The LumiBrite hands and hour markers make sure you can read the time in all light conditions, and the hands feature the same polish as the case. I love the fact it offers a subtle sparkle in the light but doesn’t come off too flashy at all. 

Little color accents are another detail that I look for in a GS watch. The Grand Seiko logo on the dial comes in a light blue, and this same color is seen in the “GMT” text, inner 24-hour markers, and the GMT hand as well.

Even with all of these minor details, I would still consider the dial to be pretty minimalist. Grand Seiko comes with a wide variety of timepieces, but I generally prefer when they take a simpler approach to the design. There’s a certain harmony found in every GS watch, and the SBGJ255 is a leading example of how they execute this with precision.

I’m not particularly interested in blue colorways, but the hints of blue against the white dial contrast the overall simplicity. You can easily read the watch in standard or military time, and the GMT hand makes it easy to track changing time zones.

The Movement That Makes the SBGJ255 Tick

Part of what has made Grand Seiko such a sought-after watchmaker over time is their dedication to in-house movements. The Caliber 9S86 is what puts this watch in motion. It’s a high-frequency movement that ticks at 36,000 vibrations per hour (vph). This creates an extremely smooth motion for the seconds hand on top of impressive accuracy.

I’m easily impressed when it comes to GS movements, as their engineering is amazing across the board. What really gets me is watching the movement go to work as every finite component blends perfectly with the next. 

Wearers get the benefit of a 55-hour power reserve. For those who don’t know, the power reserve is a part of the watch’s reliable performance between windings. The mean daily rate is +5 to -3 seconds per day, and most people would consider this level of accuracy pretty exceptional.

I get pretty excited about the GMT functionality, as I don’t have a watch in my collection that has this feature. It allows for independent adjustment of the hour hand without affecting the flow of the seconds hand. For those who travel frequently, this can be a nice feature to make sure the watch is always on time.

If you get a chance to look closely, you’ll notice the titanium rotor of the movement has a gold tone to it. This comes from a special anodic oxidation process, giving the rotor a very distinct look.

It’s also important to note that the rotor is skeletonized, which gives you a better view of the decorated movement below it. Once I understood the collaborative performance features of this watch, I had to try it for myself. I’m not necessarily prone to a specific movement, but I do love the amount of engineering, design, and detail that can be marveled at any time you want.

Strap Qualities

I can see how the strap might look pretty basic to most people, but it’s more about the overall qualities that make it stand out. First and foremost, they always sell me on the high-intensity titanium. I’ll always prefer that over stainless steel, as it’s sturdy yet lightweight and undoubtedly beautiful.

Featuring a 19mm band width, it’ll feel pretty uniform around the wrist, and it tapers a bit down to 18mm. This helps to maintain proportion to the case so that one component isn’t taking the spotlight over another. Cohesiveness is a norm in Grand Seiko watches, but you can’t really tell until you try it on for yourself.

When I was able to put on the SBGJ255, it was immediately apparent that it was a great fit. At least for me, I didn’t feel like any adjustments needed to be made. The band is also equipped with screw links, as well as half links for proper sizing. However, a slight downside is that it doesn’t come built with micro-adjustments.

Aside from that, the folding clasp feels sturdy and secure, and it’s built with a seamless safety push-button release. If you simply aren’t a fan of the strap, you can easily swap it out, thanks to the drilled lugs. 

Finding replacement straps for GS watches seems to be a common challenge for me, but I rarely ever want to change in the first place. If you want the true Grand Seiko experience, I think it’s important to keep all of the original components.

Part of the classic look of the strap stems from their choice of polished intermediate links. This contrasts the primary brushed look of the strap, adding a little shine around your entire wrist. Of course, this isn’t overbearing, as Grand Seiko knows exactly how to accent a luxury watch.

How it Feels on the Wrist

Some of this will come down to personal preference, but in my opinion, it’s pretty easy to describe how this watch feels on the wrist. For me, it’s an immediate everyday wear. I can see how the white dial could be reserved for certain occasions, but it isn’t flashy enough to distract from casual outfits.

Although the watch dimensions are fitting for a variety of wrist sizes, it’s still optimal for a particular range. Those who have 6 to 7.5” wrists will have the best experience with the SBGJ255. Once again, with adjustments and a little wiggle room over 7.5”, the timepiece is more than suitable for many common wrist sizes.

I will agree that the thickness of the watch is noticeable. It isn’t something that can be ignored exactly, but it isn’t a detail that affects everyday wear. The watch easily hides behind my wrist cuffs and never catches on the edges due to its dimensions.

In the past, I was actually more inclined to swap straps out for leather, but polished titanium is starting to change that preference. There was a time when I would have thought this watch was too flashy. Now that I have a better understanding of Grand Seiko and their design process, I have immense appreciation for their stance on titanium.

Blending practical functionality and high-end beauty, the SBGJ255 can quickly become your new family heirloom. From my standpoint, the watch is more than viable for professional and casual settings. Overall, the day-to-day experience of wearing the SBGJ255 is more than comfortable and fashionable, all in one.

Pricing and Availability

Any Grand Seiko watch is bound to come with a sizable price tag, but they do range from affordable to expensive. Regarding the SBGJ255, I feel this watch hits a sweet spot somewhere in the middle. You can find the timepiece retailed at $8,500. On the other hand, you can look into pre-owned pricing, which can range from $4,000 to $7,500, depending on various factors.

When you compare this to other GS watches and luxury watches from other brands, the asking price is more than understandable. For me, my price cap is usually $10,000, as that’s a bit hard for me to warrant, but anything underneath that is more than enough.

I plan on keeping mine for quite a long time, considering the fact it’s a limited edition. With these types of watches, you never know how much harder they’ll be able to find as time goes on. Since the SBGJ255 is only a few years old at this point, it’s still pretty easy to source online.

Shopping online is always easy to do, but finding reputable watchmakers and retailers is a different story. The Grand Seiko name speaks for itself, but you want to find a retailer that has experience with the brand and the industry as a whole.

If you’re looking for a retailer that can exceed your expectations, working with Exquisite Timepieces is the only back-end support you need. Not only can you find the SBGJ255 in all its glory, but we will walk you through all of your questions and concerns. Buying a GS watch should be considered a lifelong commitment; finding a retailer that understands this is crucial.

Final thoughts

Grand Seiko may have a long line of watches and collections, but you don’t want to miss out on the SBGJ255 55th anniversary limited edition. These aren’t always common, and I’d argue this watch specifically is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. GS leans heavily into its heritage, and it can be seen and felt in every detail of the SBGJ255.

Don’t hesitate to reach out to us at Exquisite Timepieces. Whether you have questions regarding the SBGJ255 or another design, we’re more than happy to provide the guidance you’re looking for.