Grand Seiko SBGJ249 Review – An Elegant and Functional Watch

I have to be honest, there are few collections of watches in the luxury market that have captivated quite as intensely as the Grand Seiko Seasons Collection. I’ve followed this collection with bated breath ever since it debuted in 2019, but since these models aren’t all that easy to come by, I’d only ever seen a few in person. 

To me, this is a collection that has set a new benchmark for dial construction – even for Grand Seiko – with each dial reflecting one of the twenty four “sekki” in Japan (more on that shortly). The original four models featured Spring Drive movements and have become popular models in their own right. But a few years later, another installment was introduced: the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch. This model combines a uniquely textured dial inspired by “Shōsho,” the high summer, and is powered by one of the brand’s in-house hi-beat GMT movements. 

History of the Grand Seiko Seasons Collection 

For those of you new to the Grand Seiko Seasons collection, this is a line-up of beautiful dress watches from the Japanese watchmaker that captures the essence of the four seasons through exquisite dial designs. 

In Japan, they don’t simply just name the months spring, summer, fall, and winter. Instead, they have 24 “sekki”, solar terms in the Japanese calendar that mark specific seasonal changes. Grand Seiko’s Seasons Collection reflects these “sekki” with dials that embody the unique colors and textures of the changing seasons. 

When the first four models of this collection were released in 2019, they set a new standard in dial craftsmanship and showcased a clear distinction between Grand Seiko and its sibling brand, Seiko. While Seiko offers a range of quality timepieces, Grand Seiko operates as a separate entity, focusing on high-end, intricate designs with superior mechanics. 

These initial models featured Spring Drive movements and classic time-and-date-only displays. A little later, in 2020, Grand Seiko introduced several exclusive models for the US market, also powered by Spring Drive movements but with added power reserve indicators. 

Then came the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch in 2021, which added an extra layer of functionality to the collection. This model incorporates a GMT hand and a 24-hour scale powered by a Hi-Beat movement. 

My initial concern was whether this additional functionality would overwhelm the dial, potentially detracting from the sophisticated aesthetic for which Grand Seiko is known. However, as a frequent traveler, I find that having a GMT feature is incredibly practical, and I’m eager to see if the SBGJ249 manages to maintain the refined elegance of the Seasons Collection while offering this added functionality.

A Tall Stainless Steel Case 

As soon as the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 arrived for review, I couldn’t wait to strap it onto my wrist. And let me tell you, I was blown away—most by the dial (which I’ll dive into shortly) but also by the overall case design. 

With a relatively small wrist of about five and a half inches, I was excited that a GMT watch with these dimensions wore so well.  Don’t get me wrong, it’s definitely a statement piece, but that’s exactly what I love about it. The size is perfect for getting noticed without feeling overwhelming. 

The Grand Seiko SBGJ249 measures 39.5mm wide, 14.1mm thick, with a lug-to-lug span of 46.9mm. The width is ideal—versatile enough to suit a range of wrist sizes – while the thickness is on the larger side for a dress watch, making it a bit more challenging to slide under a tight shirt cuff. But that said, you have to appreciate that the movement inside needs that space to work its magic. The extra height is down to the additional GMT hand and the box-shaped sapphire crystal. 

The case back does feature a domed, almost bubble-like finish that helps the watch to sit lower than its height suggests, though it’s still relatively thick for a dress watch. The case shape is a nod to the classic 62GS design, and as such, most of the case is polished using Grand Seiko’s renowned Zaratsu technique, which creates a mirror-like finish. The sloping stepped bezel, case sides, and faceted lugs all benefit from this high polish, with just enough brushed detailing to highlight the crisp transitions that Grand Seiko masters so well. 

Unlike some earlier models in the Grand Seiko Seasons collection, this one has a 30-meter water resistance, compared to the 100 meters we’ve seen before. While I wish it offered a bit more protection—especially since I’d consider this a go-to travel watch—it’s still a dress watch at heart, so 30 meters isn’t out of the ordinary. The water resistance is mainly due to the knurled and polished push-pull crown at 3 o’clock, which replaces the typical screw-down crown seen on other models.

A Water-Inspired Dial

Grand Seiko is famous for many things: their meticulous Zaratsu-polished cases, their in-house movements, and, of course, their stunning dials. I can’t think of a time I’ve been disappointed by a Grand Seiko dial, and the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 certainly lives up to these high standards. 

What I love most about Grand Seiko isn’t just that they create beautiful dials; it’s that they weave elements of Japanese culture into every design. Whether inspired by the intricate patterns of traditional Japanese fabrics or the textures of a specific tree near the Grand Seiko studio, their dials always tell a story.

In the case of the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch, it’s part of the Seasons collection, celebrating one of the 24 “sekki” called Shōsho—late summer. The dial has a soft, understated elegance, colored in a crisp pale blue that shifts to almost silver depending on the light. 

According to Grand Seiko, it’s meant to evoke the surface of water when sunlight dances on it, and the wind creates gentle ripples. Water was the first thing that came to mind when I saw the dial, so Grand Seiko has truly nailed the aesthetic.

This is one of those dials you can stare at for ages, and as always with Grand Seiko, it looks even better in person than in photos. While I’m not certain of the exact techniques used to craft this dial, I’m sure it wasn’t easy—despite the dial’s relaxed, effortless appearance, with its horizontal brush strokes that create these delicate waves.

The circumference is adorned with a half-style printed railway minute track in black, interrupted by faceted indices with polished surfaces. Just inside the hour markers is the 24-hour scale, printed in deep navy blue, perfectly matching the heat-treated blue GMT hand. 

The hour and minute hands are sharp and dauphine-shaped, while the seconds hand is left sleek and simple. Completing the design is a sculpted date window at 3 o’clock, an applied GS signature at 12 o’clock above the black-printed Grand Seiko logo and the movement details neatly printed at 6 o’clock.

As I mentioned earlier, my biggest concern with the SBGJ249 was whether the dial might feel cluttered with the addition of extra complications. But I’m happy to report that it doesn’t. Grand Seiko has done a fantastic job of balancing the new markings and hands, maintaining the elegance of a dress watch while adding practical functionality.

A High-Beat GMT Movement 

The most notable change for the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch compared to previous novelties added to the brand’s Seasons collection is its movement and the added functionality that comes with it. 

While Grand Seiko is perhaps best known for their innovative Spring Drive movements, which blend the best of mechanical and quartz technology, they also have an impressive lineup of Hi-Beat movements that are purely mechanical and boast remarkable performance. 

The Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 is powered by the Caliber 9S86 movement, a robust automatic winding movement with anti-magnetic and shock-resistant properties. It also has a power reserve of 55 hours and a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour (that’s 10 beats per second). 

It’s also impressively been adjusted in six positions and offers an accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds per day, which is even better than the standard set by COSC for chronometer certification. 

The added GMT complication in this watch is a “true” GMT function, which is a significant feature for frequent travelers like myself. Unlike an office GMT, which requires resetting all the hands to change time zones, a true GMT allows you to adjust the local hour hand independently using the crown in the second position, without stopping the seconds hand or affecting the accuracy. 

This means you can switch time zones seamlessly while the watch continues running smoothly. And while it’s not quite as fluid as a Spring Drive movement, the seconds hand of the Caliber 9S86 still glides relatively smoothly, making ten tiny incremental jumps every second, compared to the 6 or 8 jumps of standard movements running at 3 or 4 Hz. 

The movement is showcased through the screwed case back of the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch, protected by sapphire crystal. While the finishing of the movement isn’t overly decorative, it’s fitting for a movement focused on functionality. You’ll find wide Geneva-style stripes across the central bridges and oscillating rotor, polished screw heads, a polished barrel, bevelling on the bridge edges, and gold-filled engravings.

A Metal Bracelet

The bracelet on the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch follows the classic style of the Seasons Collection, featuring a mix of brushed and polished surfaces. The outer links are brushed, while the inner links have a polished finish, creating a subtle yet striking contrast. The bracelet is secured with a two-button deployment clasp, topped with the Grand Seiko logo in relief. 

The clasp is slim and tapered, which gives the watch a sleek profile on the wrist. However, this does mean it doesn’t include a micro-adjustment feature, which might be a drawback for those who prefer precise sizing. Fortunately, the bracelet comes with half links, allowing for some degree of fine-tuning to get that perfect fit.

One thing to keep in mind is the 19mm lug width. While it can be a bit tricky to find straps in this size, the good news is that the watch has drilled lugs, so making strap changes is easy and hassle-free. So, even if the 19mm width limits your options a bit, you’ll still have the flexibility to swap out the bracelet for a strap that suits your style. I’d personally love to see this watch on a dark blue alligator leather strap. I feel like it would suit the dial and its navy blue hardware perfectly.

On-Wrist Experience 

The dimensions of the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch make it versatile enough to fit a wide range of wrist sizes, from as small as five and a half inches (if you prefer a larger watch) to around 7.5 inches. However, the watch does have a noticeable thickness due to its domed sapphire crystal and automatic movement, which means it’s not the best option for slipping under a shirt cuff. 

This gives it a sportier feel, though it can still be dressed up for more formal occasions. On the wrist, it feels incredibly sturdy and robust—exactly what you want from a watch when you’re traveling. You need that peace of mind, knowing you have something reliable that you don’t have to constantly worry about. 

Now, does the 30-meter water resistance let it down a bit? Yes. I’d say that’s the biggest drawback for me with this watch. It’s something to keep in mind, especially if you’re used to sports watches that can handle a quick dip in the pool. But as long as you’re aware that this isn’t your typical sports watch and remember to take it off before getting into the water, it’s not a deal-breaker. 

For me, the standout feature of this watch, and what really makes it a joy to wear, is the dial. It’s breathtaking. I’ve honestly found it hard to focus on writing this review because I keep getting lost in the dial’s beauty. The texture, while subtle, is exquisitely detailed, perfectly capturing the effect of light dancing on a breezy water surface—just as Grand Seiko intended. The color is equally stunning, hovering between pale blue and silver and shifting depending on how the light hits it. It’s the kind of dial that will make this watch a conversation starter, no matter the occasion.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch retails brand new for $6,800 from authorized Grand Seiko stockists like Exquisite Timepieces. It’s not the smallest of price tags, but when you take into account the level of case finishing, the in-house hi-beat movement with added GMT complication, and, of course, the insane finishing on the textured dial, the price really does make sense. 

In fact, I think it’s well-priced for a watch of this caliber, and having worn it this past week, I think it is worth every penny. If needed, you can also find the watch on the second-hand market for a little cheaper. I’ve seen a few pre-owned models offered between $4,500 and $5,000. 

At the time of writing this, the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch is a permanent fixture in the Japanese watchmaker’s collection. But it is a model that has been around for three years now, so if it’s one you’re really interested in, I wouldn’t leave it on your bucket list for too long.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 is a stunning watch, but like any design, it’s not without a couple of minor critiques. The first is its water resistance. With only 30 meters, it’s a bit less than I’d expect for a watch that gives off a daily-beater, travel-friendly vibe. However, considering that it looks like a dress watch, this level of water resistance isn’t unusual—most dress watches have similar ratings.

My other concern is the case thickness. It’s a bit taller than I’d typically prefer, but I understand that when you’re dealing with a hi-beat movement of this caliber and added complications like a GMT, the case needs to accommodate those features. So, while it’s not as sleek as some other options, the extra height is justifiable.

That said, everything else about this watch is exceptional. The case finishing is top-notch, the movement’s accuracy is impressive, and as is always the case with Grand Seiko, the dial is truly the star of the show. I can’t find a single flaw with the dial. Even my initial concerns about it feeling cluttered due to the GMT hand and 24-hour scale have been put to rest. It’s a gorgeous watch, and as long as you’re mindful of the water resistance and dimensions, I’m confident you’ll love it as much as I do.