Grand Seiko SBGH301 Review: Subtle but Ever-Brilliant

There are few watches in Grand Seiko’s portfolio that don’t turn heads. These luxury timepieces often have jaw-dropping dial textures and cutting-edge movements that are hard to find elsewhere, especially at the price points the Japanese watchmaker offers them. 

But there are a handful of Grand Seiko watches that fly under the radar. Not because they’re not spectacular in their own right but because they’re often overshadowed by releases with more fascinating complications or more intricate dials. 

Yet, it’s sometimes not the loud, headline-grabbing releases that are the best. The quiet, subtle ones that sneak up on you with their subtlety and refinement usually become the ideal daily beaters. 

One such watch is the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301. Before today, it wasn’t a watch I’d had any hands-on time with, and that was predominantly because most of my focus had been on other releases. But after receiving the SBGH301 and wearing it on my wrist this past week, I’m feeling almost guilty having not given it the time of day.

The Evolution of the 44GS

When the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat collection launched in 2023, it didn’t exactly steal the spotlight. And honestly, that’s not surprising. 

Grand Seiko had so many incredible releases that year, including the groundbreaking Tentagraph, that it’s understandable that some of the more “basic” time-only watches didn’t get much attention. 

But the 44GS collection has never really been about flash or theatrics anyway. Instead, the new line-up quietly refined an iconic 1960s Grand Seiko, focusing on subtle changes that made all the difference. 

The Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 is part of an understated yet meaningful refresh. 

It replaced the lighter grey SBGH279 in the time-and-date segment of the Heritage Collection, introducing a darker, moodier dial that feels richer and more connected to its inspiration. 

Grand Seiko’s strategy here wasn’t to reinvent the wheel but to perfect what was already working. The tweaks to the case, bracelet, and especially the dial brought this series into sharper focus for collectors who crave those incremental improvements. 

Joining this release were four additional references, too. Alongside the SBGH301, we saw the SBGH299 (silver dial) step in for the SBGH277 and new GMT models like the SBGJ263 and SBGJ265. Each one felt like a natural evolution, balancing Grand Seiko’s signature craftsmanship with a fresh perspective.

A View of Mt. Iwate 

Although different in their own right, the five new Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat watches are connected by one major inspiration: Mount Iwate. 

Towering near the brand’s Shizukuishi Watch Studio in Japan, this mountain has become not just a breathtaking backdrop to all their hard work but an endless source of inspiration. The studio, where every single one of Grand Seiko’s mechanical watches is meticulously crafted, has windows that frame stunning views of the mountain. 

Each watch in the latest 44GS Hi-Beat series draws from a unique element of the mountain. Some dials reflect the look of snow or rain as it cascades down its rugged slopes, while others, like the ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ SBGH301, capture a specific moment in time. 

This particular piece is inspired by the serene beauty of dusk, the way shadows dance across the mountain’s surface, and the texture of the rock darkening as the sun sets. The dial’s intricate pattern mimics this interplay of light and shadow, creating an effect that’s both subtle and captivating – but more on that shortly.

An Ever-Brilliant Steel Case 

The Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 watch and its 2023 counterparts mark only the second time the brand has ever used Ever-Brilliant steel in non-limited form. The only other occurrence before this was the SLGH013, launched in 2022. It’s quite a big deal, especially for watch collectors like myself who really value durability. 

Unlike standard stainless steel, Ever-Brilliant Steel is an advanced alloy with a Pitting Resistance Equivalent Number (PREN) 1.7 times higher than the 316L steel used in most luxury watches. This means it’s incredibly resistant to rust and corrosion and is much more likely to survive daily life. 

Plus, beyond durability, the metal has a unique bright white finish that is beautiful, and when combined with the intricate Zaratsu polishing techniques Grand Seiko is famous for, the result is breathtaking. 

The case itself is inspired by the original 44GS from 1967, which set the blueprint for Grand Seiko’s iconic “Grammar of Design.” With its angular lines, flat surfaces, and delicate curves, the case feels sculptural yet functional. 

At 40mm in diameter, 46.2mm from lug-to-lug, and 13.29mm thick, it’s perfectly proportioned for everyday wear. While not the slimmest of cases, its dimensions feel balanced, and the subtle curves of the lugs help it sit comfortably on the wrist.

Zaratsu polishing is used on almost the entirety of the case, from the fixed bezel to the lug tops and case sides. This incredible finish is achieved by pressing the precious metal against a spinning tin plate which creates this mirror-like surface. 

It’s completely distortion-free and reflects the light a lot like a mirror. There are some thoughtful brushed sections strategically placed on the case too, such as on the sharp outer flank. These minute details, although barely noticeable, add contrast and emphasize the geometric design of the 44GS case.

The Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 watch features double-domed sapphire crystal on top, coated with an anti-reflective layer on the inner surface for enhanced durability and legibility. 

Flip the watch over, and you’ll find a sapphire display case back, too, one that offers a view of the remarkable Hi-Beat movement ticking away inside. The case also sports a screw-down crown at 3 o’clock embossed with the GS logo, providing 10 bar (100 meters) of water resistance.

The Detail Is In The Dial

Typically, my favorite feature of a Grand Seiko watch is the dial, and although the ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 is one of the Japanese watch brand’s simpler designs, it’s still beautiful. 

While technically dark gray, its tone shifts subtly depending on the light, giving it a dynamic quality that keeps your wrist glancing interesting. It’s understated but rich, offering a depth that’s hard to capture in photos (as always for Grand Seiko) but impossible to ignore in person.

The centerpiece of the design is Grand Seiko’s iconic Mount Iwate pattern, inspired by the ridged slopes of the mountain visible from the Shizukuishi Studio. The pattern radiates from the center like a sunburst, but it’s more refined than your typical sunburst dial. 

It mimics the texture of dusk settling over the mountain, similar to the way the fading light interacts with the rugged peaks. It’s a quiet yet powerful tribute to nature and once again captures Grand Seiko’s love of their country and nature.

The dial is clean and simple, which, for me, only enhances the watch’s elegance. There’s no fussy power reserve indicator or GMT scale, just a simple selection of three hands and the date. 

Like the case, all the hardware seen on the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 watch’s dial is hand-finished. The razor-sharp dauphine-style hour and minute hands are brushed on top and polished on the edges, while the baton-style indices are hand-applied and faceted, combining brushed and polished surfaces to catch the light beautifully.

A polished-framed date window at 3 o’clock adds a touch of practicality without disrupting the symmetry, while the white-on-black date wheel is a fantastic choice, keeping the dark backdrop concise but still providing easy readability. The only other features to note are the applied GS logo at 12 o’clock crowning lettering for Grand Seiko and matching text at 6 o’clock, which notes the Hi-Beat movement inside.

A Hi-Beat Movement 

For its movement, the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 elects their in-house Caliber 9S85. Known as a high-beat movement, it operates an incredible frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5Hz, which allows it to measure time with remarkable precision and stability. 

But with a high-beat movement that oscillates faster than traditional calibers there are some challenges. For example, although it improves accuracy, it does put greater demand on the movement’s components and thus affects both the power reserve and durability.

But of course, in typical Grand Seiko fashion, they worked to overcome these issues and patented several in-house technologies to tackle them. One of them is their MEMS (Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems) technology, which allows for the precise crafting of components that are lighter, stronger, and smoother. 

Another is their use of Spron alloys in the mainspring and hairspring. These proprietary materials provide greater elasticity and resistance to shock, wear, and temperature variations. This not only enhances the movement’s durability but also extends the power reserve to 55 hours. This is incredibly impressive for a high-beat caliber. 

The Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 is also wonderfully accurate, boasting a rating of -3 to +5 seconds per day. This not only meets but exceeds the rigorous standards of the Swiss COSC certification (-4 to +6 seconds per day). 

To ensure the reliability of its accuracy claim, the Caliber 9S85 is placed under a 17-day testing period where it is assessed in six different positions and at three temperatures, ensuring consistent accuracy in real-world conditions. 

As mentioned, the automatic movement is visible through the sapphire crystal case back, framed by a stunning beaded edge that naturally draws your attention to the decoration inside. Decoration includes 37 jewels, striped plates and perlage.

An Ever-Brilliant Steel Bracelet

Completing the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 watch is an Ever-Brilliant steel bracelet to match the case. It’s a beautiful bracelet in many ways. The finishing in particular is gorgeous, but there are a few points here that let the watch down slightly. 

But let’s start with the good points first. I love the architecture and the way the links stagger in formation, size and finish. It looks fantastic and really adds to the watch’s dressy and sporty personality. 

For finishing, Grand Seiko have elected a mix of brushed and polishing components. The wonderful, beveled edges and inner flanks gleam with Zaratsu polishing while the majority of the bracelet’s surface is brushed.  The clasp is solid, too. It’s a twin-trigger release, so it stays put and doesn’t just pop open when you least expect it. You’ll also find the Grand Seiko logo embossed in relief on top of the clasp. 

Now here’s the “but”. Micro-adjustment on the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301’s bracelet is almost nil. There are some half links on each end of the bracelet and screw links for easy adjustment, but to get that perfect fit will be a little tricky. The 19mm lug width is also a little awkward, but not the end of the world. Although it might not be easy to find a huge number of 19mm replacement straps, swapping them out will be easy thanks to the drilled lugs.

On-Wrist Experience

After just a couple of days of wearing the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 watch, I decided this was one of those easy-to-throw-on watches. It’s pretty much the perfect everyday companion. You don’t have to baby it since it’s relatively durable thanks to its Ever Brilliant Steel construction. It’s just nice to wear a watch you know will hold up against those daily bumps and scrapes. The finish of the steel is also stunning, keeping things classy and sophisticated. 

And of course, you have the dial. At first glance, it’s all business: a classic black sunburst finish that could easily pass for a formal dress watch. But get up close and it’s got a whole secret life going on. The intricate, raindrop-esque texture and the way it plays with the light is beautiful. It makes it dressy enough for a big meeting or a nice dinner, but it’s also subtle enough that you don’t feel like you’re overdressed wearing it to the grocery store. 

It’s also a well-sized watch. At 40mm in diameter with a 46.2mm lug-to-lug, this watch sits super comfortably on the wrist. It’s got that Goldilocks “just right” vibe that makes it work for a ton of wrist sizes. I’d suggest it would best suit anything between 6 inches and 7.5 inches, but if you prefer oversized timepieces or even smaller vintage-inspired designs, it will still look great on other frames too. 

I will say the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 watch is a little on the thicker side than I’d normally like at 13.29mm. It’s not overly chunky but the domed sapphire crystal definitely adds some height. If you’re someone who wears super tight shirt cuffs, it might not be the easiest to slide under there. But if your cuffs aren’t painted on (or if you’re like me and mostly roll your sleeves up anyway), it’s not a big deal. Plus, that slight thickness gives it more of a sporty edge.

Price & Availability

If you’re tempted to add the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 watch to your collection as much as me, you’ll be pleased to know it’s a non-limited edition that is currently a main-stay in the Japanese watchmaker’s Heritage collection. It retails brand new for $7,000 which although is a little more expensive than some of their other time-only Hi-Beat models, it is warranted since it uses their Ever-Brilliant steel across the entirety of the case and bracelet. 

You can also find the release on the second-hand market for around $5,000. But just make sure to purchase through an official Grand Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces. That way, you know you’re getting a genuine watch with all the official box and paperwork

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 is a brilliant watch in so many ways. It’s a perfect all-rounder that effortlessly balances style, durability, and functionality. It’s the kind of watch you can throw on without a second thought. It’s reliable, thanks to its hi-beat movement and COSC-worthy accuracy, so you know you’re always keeping perfect time. Plus, it’s beautiful and durable, so know you’ll always look the part.

But I think my favorite thing about this release is its dual personality. It’s elegant enough to hold its own in a boardroom but laid-back enough to pair with jeans and a tee. The brushed and polished finish keeps it sharp but not over-the-top, while the Ever Brilliant Steel ensures it can handle the wear and tear of daily life without losing its luster. The balanced dimensions make it a joy to wear for just about anyone, and the dial—subtle from afar but mesmerizing up close—adds a layer of charm that keeps you hooked.