Grand Seiko SBGA463 Review: Big, Bold, and Beautiful

You’ve seen it before: a luxury dive watch with a black rotating bezel, healthy amounts of lume for superior nighttime visibility, a rugged bracelet with on-the-fly adjustment, robust water resistance, shock absorption, and anti-magnetic properties. When you close your eyes and think of such a watch, you likely see a crown logo and aftermarket pricing that is greater than the watch’s MSRP. 

This isn’t your father’s dive watch we’re going to talk about here. This is the Grand Seiko SBGA463.

History

Forged in the land of the rising sun, in the legendary Shinshu Watch Studio, surrounded by the Jonen and Hotaka mountain ranges, the SBGA463 was first introduced in 2021. And though Grand Seiko has over half a century of history and heritage to draw on, it wasn’t until 2008 that they released their first dive watches: the SBGA029 in stainless steel and the SBGA031 in titanium. 

A quick Google search will show that the newly updated SBGA463 is inspired by these original releases, both stylistically and technologically. They feature the same large dimensions, case material (titanium), and Spring Drive movement (9R65). If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. That’s precisely the mantra Grand Seiko has used for the new SBGA463, and they’ve certainly executed it.

Case

Big. Bold. A watch that is likely to grab the attention of bystanders, the SBGA463 has a 44mm diameter, with a thickness of 14mm, and a lug-to-lug of 50mm. I know that, based on today’s preferences for “smaller” and “vintage inspired” pieces, this may seem jumbo-sized. 

But, in actuality, this is a very wearable watch, especially when considering what it’s meant for: a mechanical tool watch designed for diving and rugged adventures. 

The fact that it’s crafted from high-intensity titanium—offering greater corrosion resistance and durability—actually helps the watch’s wearability. It’s all in the weight savings; being 30% lighter than stainless steel doesn’t mean it wears 30% smaller, but for a watch this size, I have to admit that I often forgot it was on my wrist when wearing it for extended periods of time. Kudos to Grand Seiko for continuing to be innovative in case materials and construction.

And, the case offers Grand Seiko’s famed Zaratsu polishing on the side of the case and drilled lug edges, with a nice brushed finish on the inside of the lugs for superior light-play. Being a dive watch, of course, Grand Seiko includes a screw-down crown nicely engraved with the GS logo and 200m of water resistance. 

The area around the crown has been engineered to ensure that residue from dirt, sand, or seawater can be easily washed off. Grand Seiko doesn’t specify if the bezel insert is ceramic or aluminum, but upon wearing and seeing the watch in the flesh, I believe it to be aluminum, which shouldn’t be a deal breaker for most. Finally, a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on the inside offers industry-leading visibility and durability.

Dial

Grand Seiko dials are the stuff of legends. When the Snowflake first came out, it set the entire industry on notice. There are no fancy patterns or textures to this dial; however, it doesn’t take away from the subtle beauty of it. If I had to describe the dial, I’d say it’s an “inky-black,” which is perfect for a dive watch.

The dial markers are circular and filled with Lumbrite, though the 12, 3, 6, and 9 offer differently shaped markers. The hour and minute hands have a broad, sharp profile that enhances legibility and has a brushed finish. 

The second hand is more slender and glides smoothly due to the Spring Drive movement. A date is clearly visible at the 3 o’clock position, and it’s worth noting that, as in all things Grand Seiko, it’s all about attention to detail. 

A trained artisan meticulously polishes the smallest details within the dial: the metal borders surrounding the date window, each dial marker, and even the power reserve indicator. 

No, no—don’t roll your eyes. I actually adore the power reserve indicator, but I know some people don’t love them. They are uniquely Grand Seiko, and I think it fits their design language nicely, but that’s me.

Movement

Some watch snubs wrinkle their noses in abject disgust at the prospect of spending thousands of dollars on a quartz watch. They argue that the intricacy of a mechanical watch, along with the craftsmanship and history, make it the “only” option for a luxury purchase. I myself have no problem with quartz watches, but what if I told you that the best of both worlds was available in one mesmerizing package?

Enter the 9R65 Spring Drive movement, the beating heart of the SBGA463. This is an in-house movement, combining both quartz and mechanical movement technology into something entirely unique to Grand Seiko. Spring Drive uses a mechanical mainspring for power but regulates time with a quartz crystal and an electromagnetic brake. 

This unique system creates a smooth, continuous movement of the second hand, combining the benefits of both mechanical and quartz technologies. These watches are super accurate, to the tune of +/-15 seconds per month—unparalleled accuracy in the watch industry. The movement also features a robust 72 hours of power reserve! 

Keep in mind that in today’s day and age, many manufacturers claim to use “in-house” movements, but their movements are just slightly modified ETA or Selita movements, and there is nothing wrong with third-party movements. 

Most Swiss watches under $3000 feature these movements, and they are accurate, dependable, and offer long-term repairability. It’s always nice, however, to know that you purchased a luxury watch with a movement specifically made for that watch, offering the latest and greatest in horological technology.

Straps

In my years covering the watch industry, I’ve heard it often repeated that Grand Seiko bracelets aren’t up to par, especially when considering their lack of micro-adjustment. I’ve debunked this claim as fictitious in previous reviews of the brand. 

Grand Seiko’s bracelets are woefully underrated. Their finishing matches or beats competitors in their price range, and the SBGA463 has the best Grand Seiko bracelet I’ve ever tried, offering four micro-adjustment holes on its titanium clasp.

The entire bracelet is made from titanium, with a finishing that offers variations between brushed and polished details. Like every GS bracelet, it is adjusted via push pins and has a lug width of 22mm—a nice touch, considering odd-numbered lug widths made it so much more difficult to purchase aftermarket straps. 

Another touch that Grand Seiko continues to offer on most of its sportier models is the inclusion of drilled lugs. You don’t have to worry about scratching your beautiful investment anymore or going to an AD just to change your watch strap.

On-Wrist Experience

There it was, lying on a beautiful blue felt mat, winking at me with its devilishly good looks.

“This is a 44?” I asked, glancing down at my slender wrists nervously. I had my doubts that the SBGA463 would fit me properly.

“Yes, 44mm,” the saleswoman responded, opening the clasp and helping me put the watch on.

I remember the first thoughts that came to my mind: wow, this is light. She urged me to walk around for a bit to get a proper feel for the watch. I did, and the longer I spent with it, the more I realized that the lightness of the watch really helped the wearing experience. 

I dare say this wore like a 42mm watch. The bracelet was super comfortable, with great articulation, easily conforming to the curves of my wrist. There was no lug overhang, not on my 6.75-inch wrist.

I left the boutique pleasantly surprised. People are so quick to go down the rabbit hole that is the online watch community, where things like lug-to-lug and case diameter reign supreme. 

Listen, I am as guilty as the rest, but it’s always important to try a watch on, especially if you like the looks. You remember the old saying: Don’t judge a book by its cover. I was guilty of judging the SBGA463 by its dimensions, but I was wrong. This is a watch that will fit the vast majority of wrists out there, from 6 inches up to infinity!

Price & Availability

The SBGA463 is available at all authorized dealers of Grand Seiko and has an MSRP of $7,300. If you are seeking a Grand Seiko SBGR325, there is no better place to purchase one than Exquisite Timepieces. At Exquisite Timepieces, we’re renowned for our expertise in luxury timepieces and our enduring partnerships with esteemed brands like Grand Seiko. 

As an authorized dealer of Grand Seiko, we have the expertise and experience to answer any questions you may have. We also have an extensive collection of Grand Seiko models. Feel free to explore our curated collection online or experience the exclusive range available at our boutique in Naples, Florida. Every order from Grand Seiko includes complimentary delivery and comprehensive insurance, ensuring your luxury watch arrives securely. 

Of course, there are other places to purchase a Grand Seiko timepiece, such as an online marketplace or on various watch forums, but with millions upon millions of inauthentic watches in circulation, the safest place to purchase any high-end timepiece is always a reputable dealer such as Exquisite Timepieces. 

I spent some time online searching for pre-owned examples of the SBGA463. There are not many for sale, and they go for about $5500-6000 on the pre-owned market. Are the savings worth it? It all depends on your preferences. 

And remember, purchasing from an authorized dealer such as Exquisite Timepieces also ensures that you receive Grand Seiko’s full factory warranty: a phenomenal five years from the date of purchase.

Put your mind at ease, and let us do the legwork for you!

Conclusion

Whether you are searching for a professional diver to take on your next deep sea exploration or you need a luxurious desk diver that can be dressed up or down, the Grand Seiko SBGA463 is more than deserving of your consideration. It’s easy to dress up or down due to the subtle yet beautiful black dial. 

You can lug this around all day without feeling tired, too. Some larger watches made from stainless steel can really weigh you down, but Grand Seiko’s proprietary high-intensity titanium is not only 30% lighter than comparable stainless steel, but it also offers superior durability and scratch resistance. 

When considering a luxury watch purchase, we often take the “safe” route, purchasing a watch that is easily recognizable by watch nerds and civilians alike. You can complete the sentence with any number of safe brands: You buy a _____ to impress others; you buy a Grand Seiko to impress yourself.

Do yourself a favor. Consider buying this tremendous watch, or any Grand Seiko for that matter. Don’t impress others—impress yourself.