Dawn Awakens – the Grand Seiko Asaborake SBGY011

If you’ve ever encountered a watch like the Grand Seiko SBGY011, you’re likely a diehard 44GS fan like me. The model, when Grand Seiko released it in 2022, was a superb reissue of the highly coveted 44GS – a vintage Grand Seiko watch that has always been a landmark timepiece in the brand’s rich history. 

This original, of course, had a gold medallion caseback, which concealed a vintage movement behind its surface, while on top, an acrylic crystal completed the desirable vintage package that collectors so often loved.

But what makes the reference SBGY011 – the Asaborake Edition – so special, you ask? Well, there’s a lot to cover on the matter, most of which we’ll touch on when we discuss its design, movement, and dial. 

However, aside from blending form with function rather beautifully, the model also caused a dilemma amongst GS fans when it arrived on the scene a couple of years ago. 

How the SBGY011 Stole Hearts 

I remember the release of the SBGY011. It came around a month or so after the beautiful Omiwatari timepiece on the bracelet. That was some watch to get excited about. For those who don’t already know, the Omiwatari is an inspired design based on a natural phenomenon that occurs midwinter. 

When temperatures change across regions like Shiojiri, the birthplace of Grand Seiko, and home to Lake Suwa, the region’s frozen waters contract and expand.

This structural impact on the water’s surface is believed to be “God’s Footsteps” and a way for religious communities to observe the direction of these ridges and determine whether their year’s harvest will be fruitful. 

The Omiwatari watch by Grand Seiko also offered a Spring Drive movement, a robust case design (enhanced by the brand’s Zaratsu technique), and a beautifully textured dial that perfectly captured the natural fissures of the lake’s top. 

As you can tell from its brief introduction, the watch became a covetable timepiece rather swiftly and one that followed the brand’s Nature of Time theme that so many of the Japanese brand’s timepieces have adopted. 

So, you can understand that the arrival of the SBGY011 caused quite a dilemma for many of Grand Seiko’s discerning collectors who had just acquired this beautiful nature-inspired GS watch, complete with a quality finish and an impeccable movement, only for something equally as beautiful to hit their radar.

The latter was shrouded in a shimmering cloak of silvering tones that skilfully caught the light and boasted an architecture that tipped its hat to the beloved 44GS itself. Furthermore, the watch was only the second in the brand’s offerings to feature a manual wind Spring Drive movement in this 44GS style. 

This perhaps explains why a watch like the SBGY011 would pique the interest of such a devoted Grand Seiko collector. Sure, the watch oozes bucket loads of charm and a classic character (one of the reasons why I often fall under the spell of any pretty-looking Grand Seiko watch). 

But the allure of this model runs far deeper than the magnetic pull of the 44GS alone. Moreover, this is a celebration of some of the Japanese giant’s greatest technical feats. 

The History of the Grand Seiko 44GS

Although Grand Seiko was founded in the 1960s, the evolution of the brand during the 1980s and 1990s further emphasized the profound effect that the brand had on the watchmaking industry. It rose to fame during a transformative era, demonstrating that perfection was indeed a pursuit that never really ends anywhere. 

Furthermore, it is a lifestyle. A belief followed regimentally by every skilled craftsman working at the brand’s ateliers. Perfection is unattainable but, at the same time, the pinnacle of complete success, and therefore, something no brand should ever stop striving for. 

For decades, GS has consistently pushed the boundaries, both in technological innovations and aesthetics, and that was still the case when the 44GS arrived in 1967. Its distortion-free finishes and distinctive case geometry became a playground for light and shade to balance one another out in a harmonious dance. 

This was something that GS collectors had not seen before, but it was the work of Taro Tonaka. The 44GS was one of the earliest Grand Seiko case designs and would go on to embody the “Grand Seiko Style”. It was driven by this idea of a never-ending pursuit of perfection – an idealism whereby watches should “sparkle with quality”. 

The modern reinterpretations of the popular 44GS respect all the core values of the original while reimagining the icon for the modern collector. Of course, the new models are more ergonomically designed, making them great for daily companions. 

However, the crisp angles and the razor-like sleekness of the modern-day profile far surpass anything that even Grand Seiko experts could have imagined at the time. Despite the 44GS being such a collectible, the design of the younger SBGY011 exceeds expectations of mechanical performance and style by a country mile.

The guy responsible for achieving these once-unattainable principles is Nobuhiro Kosugi. As head designer of the modern generation, he had the know-how to bring this vision to reality. Kosugi began in the industry in 1973 as a case designer and joined Seiko Instruments twenty years later. He also had great influence over the models from Grand Seiko’s Heritage Collection, having supported the brand’s return to mechanical watchmaking after a hiatus.

Of course, achieving the modern 44GS-inspired watches would be no easy task. The complexity behind the processes required to capture the sharp edges, curved sides, and thin, tapering lugs of the 44GS would require some tactical problem-solving and a great deal of logical thinking. But today, the mirror-polished Zaratsu-finished models are nothing short of stunning, and that applies to watches like the Grand Seiko SBGY012.

The Case

Accomplishing the unique case structure of the modern 44GS-inspired watches from Grand Seiko was never going to be easy. To achieve the mirror-polished finishes that we have all come to know and love as a dedicated Grand Seiko community, the implementation of a precise machine was the only way to do it. 

And even then, holding the case up to the turning plate on the Zaratsu machine required an unimaginable level of skill and patience. Only those who have trained for many years inside the brand’s ateliers are trusted with the task of the traditional Zaratsu case polish, and this shows in every inch of the SBGY011 watch’s detailing.

This case technique certainly pushes the envelope, and what many still struggle to comprehend is the brand’s very modest pricing, especially when you compare this to several other more expensive offerings with a less-than-mediocre finish, shall we say? Seriously – take a look at the lugs and you’ll see your teeth through them! This watch takes the concept of the polished watch case to a whole other level. 

The case of the Grand Seiko Asaborake Edition reference SBGY011 is a series of sharp lines, flat surfaces, and crisp facets, where planes come together to produce levels and edges that create a complex tapestry of geometric angles. 

The curved finishes along the case side, combined with these other elements, are incredibly challenging to achieve and were not present in the original 44GS watches, but allow the case to sit closer to the wrist. The case takes up residence on the wrist at 10.2mm, allowing it to easily slip under a jacket or office suit.

Combined with these dimensions is a lug-to-lug measurement of 46.2mm, which makes it even more manageable for the smaller-wristed guy to carry off, even when compared to models like the SLGA013, which also adopts the 44GS-inspired architecture. 

The Dial 

“When dawn draws back the veil of night”. That’s the sole inspiration behind this beautiful Grand Seiko watch. To me, it’s that moment when light hits the earth, and everything picks up a muted shade of color. I think the relief of daybreak is perfectly captured in this edition. 

More specifically, the crack of dawn across the mountainous landscape where Grand Seiko watches are made in Shinshu. After all, this is where experts get so much inspiration from when creating their textured dials. 

While some brands specialize in crafting the perfect bracelet or dedicate their time to pioneering new complications, Grand Seiko’s niche is the handcrafted dial, so much so that it has become equally as recognizable for this trade as it has its impeccable movements. 

While the Four Seasons collection is home to colorful dials inspired by Japanese culture and nature, there are other models, like those from the Elegance Collection that share a similar three-dimensional quality with the Four Seasons line. 

However, the Heritage Collection, which features full-of-depth dial designs, like the Asaborake Edition, has thinner cases and graceful aesthetics that set this style apart from others in the catalog. 

And if you and your watch friends are bored to death of talking about movements and how much you spent on the latest addition to your collection, the dial of a Grand Seiko watch like the SBGY011 is actually a great talking point, especially when you know how each one is brought into existence. 

Of course, the Snowflake is the most widely referred to textured dial by Grand Seiko, mimicking the look of freshly fallen snow upon Japan’s unique landscape. Then there are examples like the White Birch and Sakura blossom editions – each one enticing in its own way. 

The dial of the SBGY011, however, boasts a beautifully textured off-white dial color and follows in the faithful footsteps of Taro Tonaka’s Grammar of Design philosophy. The hands and hour markers have multi-faceted surfaces that reflect the light beautifully, while the 12 o’clock location features double indices. 

The dial also features a blued steel hand, affording a subtle pop of color, and, interestingly, the dial appears rather glossy at first until you inspect it on a closer level. Here, you’ll be able to appreciate that special textured pattern that creates a sense of great depth. 

I think the absence of the date does the watch a favor here, especially in terms of creating a simple, no-fuss dial that’s also incredibly easy on the eye since the Asaborake has a very palatable, symmetrical layout. The features are all easy to track at a glance and sit underneath a strong box sapphire crystal glass front with anti-reflective treatment applied to its surface. 

Lastly, instead of featuring the power reserve of the Spring Drive movement on the dial side, experts at Grand Seiko have relocated it to the caseback. Therefore, the Asaborake reference SBGY011 is the perfect option for those who have always wanted a Spring Drive model but without the added complication on the dial side. 

The Movement

I’ve spoken in depth about the allure of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive movement before. But for the horologically curious, this is a revolutionary movement that radically changed the way consumers looked at Grand Seiko as a manufacturer. The concept came about in the 1970s in an attempt to create what GS experts described as an “everlasting watch”. 

The actual concept, even when you think about it now, seemed impossible. Creating a mechanical watch wound by a mainspring but with the one-second accuracy rating of quartz sounded unthinkable, but this is exactly what a Spring Drive movement is.

To help the 240-patent movement fulfill its role, GS experts equipped the Spring Drive with a Tri-Synchro regulator, which replaces the role of the escapement. The Spring Drive saw a brake added between the wheel and the other components of the movement, reducing friction and wear and tear. 

The result (and 600 prototypes later), the Spring Drive was a smooth, silently operating engine that promised a much longer life span. As such, you can admire the gracefully sweeping second hand of the watch as it glides across the dial – an instant giveaway of the revered Spring Drive movement.

The Calibre 9R31 inside the SBGY011 has put on a show behind a sapphire crystal glass exhibition caseback, complete with finely brushed bridges and elegant blued screws. The movement also provides a 72-hour power reserve for those occasions when you may want to alternate the watch with another favorite from your collection. 

The Strap

One key thing I have to mention about the Grand Seiko SBGY011 is its drilled lug holes, which make switching out the strap super easy. The watch naturally comes fitted to the black crocodile leather band but would look incredibly cool if configured to something more colorful like a dark blue or green alternative or even something more vintage-looking like a traditional calf leather band. As it stands, though, the high-quality black strap has large scales on the top and a supple calfskin layer underneath, making it exceptionally soft and comfortable against the skin.

Unfortunately, the watch isn’t offered on a bracelet option, but a factory bracelet from the GS range, particularly one made for the original 44GS watch, would look just as cool. Meanwhile, if you fancied something a little sportier, a rubber band would give the watch a more relaxed edge. 

Likewise, a 19mm Epsom strap could provide the SBGY011 with a real pop of color, especially one with contrast stitching. Whatever you decide to fit the SBGY0011 on, you’ll still have several options, although strap finding would certainly be a lot easier if the lug width measured a more mainstream 20mm.

How It Wears

As I mentioned earlier, the case of the Grand Seiko SBGY011 is a complex series of polished angles, ridges, and curves that are not easy to achieve. But doing so with such tenacity does enable Grand Seiko experts to achieve a more ergonomic fit for the wrist. 

Having looked at the case in some serious detail, I can see that this watch would cause no issue under the cuff of any shirt sleeve, and its 40mm case size is certainly a versatile fit for most wrist circumferences.

 No doubt, what you will love most about wearing the Asaborake Edition is its clever dimensions. Just how does the Japanese watchmaker produce a watch that looks so contoured without it wearing too large on the wrist? 

Lug-to-lug, the case measures 46.2mm, and this is a crucial detail to how the watch wears. Even on my female wrist, that case is destined to sit compactly and comfortably, even with the wide surfaces of the 44GS case. The trade-off of having a manual winding movement inside that case, as opposed to an automatic, is golden. As such, it’s likely one of the best-fitting Grand Seiko’s of its kind because of it.

Going back to my earlier point about the Omiwatari Edition, if that watch was too small for you and you’re looking for something with a little more wrist presence, this is the ticket. It’s 2mm larger than the 38mm Omiwatari, and I personally think it has a more versatile dial colour too.

The Price

The Grand Seiko Asaborake SBGY011 watch currently retails for $8,300. And while it’s not the cheapest of GS watches, the value in this watch is evident throughout the design. The watch may not exactly appreciate in value the older it gets but, as with all Grand Seiko watches, it will hold value well. 

We already talked about the longevity of this watch when discussing the movement itself. But generally speaking, because Grand Seiko watches are brought together using the highest quality materials and several time-honored processes and techniques – you can rest assured that this is a watch will deliver in values of accuracy and legibility for years to come.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Asaborake calls to mind the hazy morning light across the Shinshu backdrop that forms around the Grand Seiko studios and, like an oil painting, captures those nuances and textures across its dial perfectly, using processes and design concepts that many other brands could only ever aspire to grasp.

Aside from the dial itself, this is a practical daily beater that utilizes one of the most accurate mechanical movements on the planet, yet it’s a versatile, comfortable fit for most wrist sizes, too. What’s not to love?