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best investment watches

No matter your stance on watches as “investments”, or a new alternative “asset class”, it can’t be denied that the secondary market values of these objects traditionally worn on the wrist have jumped in recent years.

Indeed, when Aurel Bacs hit the proverbial hammer on October 26, 2017, at the Phillips auction house in New York with the record-setting $17.8-million dollar sale of the “Paul Newman” Rolex Daytona, a new era of watch collecting was ushered in. 

To be clear, particularly rare vintage watches have commanded high secondary market prices on the auction block for years. But, with the advent of new technologies such as social media and popular internet blogs, the attention on the watch space has never been greater, impacting the scene from vintage all the way down to modern, new watches as well.

And while not every watch will garner the attention and multi-million dollar valuation of the “Paul Newman” Daytona, it’s clear that collectors are now acutely aware of the residual values when purchasing a watch.

Oftentimes, it may be the deciding factor when deciding to buy or not. Whether secondary market values are the lowest rung on your ladder of watch purchase decision-making or the top factor in building your watch “portfolio”, let’s explore the idea further.

Why Do People Invest in Watches?

Beanie Babies, baseball cards, comic books, and more. No matter the hobby, collectors will always seek to differentiate themselves from their peers by seeking out the rarest or most special items. If you’re looking for an error-tag Snort/Tabasco Beanie Baby, look no further than my childhood closet. And with rarity comes value (the old “supply and demand” adage); It’s no different in the watch hobby. 

But when spending upwards of thousands of dollars on a single item, it’s arguably more responsible to understand both the inherent value (the “why” of a particular watch; what draws you to it, what sparks your joy, why to hold on to it), and the secondary market value (if you had to sell it, how much would it go for, does it lose, gain or hold its value, how fast would it sell, would anyone even want to buy). 

And when we’re talking thousands of dollars, to even hundreds of thousands and millions, we enter into the realm of true asset classes. Indeed, watches have become a way to diversify and spread wealth, similar to how automobiles and fine art have in recent decades. On the one hand, we have profit-seeking, and on the other, the mere comfort of knowing your money is generally “safe”. 

How to Choose the Best Investment Watches?

None of us have a crystal ball. And we certainly can’t predict the future or offer any financial advice to propose what is or will be, the next big watch hit in which you can safely place your money. But we can make our best-educated guess based on historical market trends and the factors that led to high valuations of specific watches to better understand where we may see these patterns again in the future. So what makes a good investment watch? Consider the following factors:

  • Rarity. We’ve said it before, and it bears worth repeating. Low supply generally yields high demand. The rarer a watch may be, whether from low production numbers, limited edition makeups, age, and so on, the higher the secondary market price may go. In a hobby as personal as watches (these are goods of self-expression, after all), collectors will continue to seek ways to differentiate themselves from the masses. The more different or expressive a watch can be, the more they’re willing to pay.  
  • Condition. And yet, not all watches are the same, even if they are within the same make. We have to factor in the condition of a timepiece when determining its value, and the better a watch’s relative condition is, the higher its price can command. For example, a vintage 1680 Rolex “Red” Submariner with a cracked crystal should generally be less valuable than the same 1680 Red Sub with its crystal intact.
  • Authenticity. Hand in hand with the condition is authenticity. Is the watch true to its original makeup when it left the factory? Are there any replacement parts, and have the replacements been disclosed to the public? Has the watch been serviced, and does it include official documentation or papers from the manufacturer and all original accouterments (good old “box and papers”)? All factors here will impact the added value.
  • Heritage. Does the watch come from a particularly popular brand or has a storied history with documented use in research, development, and beyond? (Insert your favorite Moonwatch story here).
  • X-Factor. The hardest to determine, and oftentimes overlapping with rarity and condition, is the “X-Factor”. This can be thought of as something that makes a watch particularly special outside the normal attributes. Think “Khanjar” or Tiffany stamped dial Rolex or your favorite celebrity wearing a timepiece courtside. Indeed, the “Paul Newman” Daytona wouldn’t have reached its record-breaking heights without relation to the actor. Even the Domino’s Pizza Rolex Air King is seeing its heyday.

Which Are the Best Watch Brands to Invest In?

The easy answer: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and popular independents such as F.P. Journe and Akrivia. 

The vaguer answer: Watches of good investment value can be found across the full spectrum, from Swatch and Seiko to the upper echelons of masters like Philippe Dufour and Roger W. Smith, model dependent. 

The truth: Any brand worth investing in will have some mix of the factors listed above, namely rarity, condition, heritage, and some shade of “X-Factor”.

These brands will be harder to get (ex: the Rolex “waitlist”), have documented histories of greatness or contributions to the watch craft and industry, and will find their own organic popularity through the movers and shakers of the hobby, ultimately garnering more interest from the community at large (ie, more demand).

The 20 Best Investment Watches of 2024 (for your consideration):

1. Rolex GMT Master II (ref. 16710)

Rolex GMT Master II (ref. 16710)

As a premier flagship steel sports Rolex model, arguably any iteration of the Rolex GMT Master can be considered an investment piece due to the iconic status the watch holds in Rolex’s lineup and pop culture. However, particularly in the 16710 produced from 1989 through 2007, we see an “end of an era” in true tool watch form before Rolex makes the switch to upgraded materials decidedly more luxury leaning such as a ceramic bezel, updated bracelet and maxi dial and case size.

Available with the iconic red and blue “Pepsi” bezel insert, the black and red “Coke” insert, or the all-black bezel variation, the 16710 is heralded by collectors for its iconic looks and tool watch practicality. And with its 40mm case diameter, 12.4mm thickness, 47.5mm lug-to-lug, and 20mm lug width, we have classic case size proportions suitable for various wrists for those who find the modern variant a bit too large.

Of note, a collector will find a few iterations within the 16710 model line: the “SWISS T25” dial with tritium hour markers and hands pre-1999; the transitional “Swiss Only” dial dated to 1999, and the “SWISS MADE” dial featuring SuperLuminova hour markers and hands from 2000 onwards.

2. Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711


Another darling of the watch-collecting zeitgeist (perhaps THE darling), the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711, discontinued in 2021, is perhaps a surefire addition to any watch investment portfolio. Originally debuting in 2006 with several references among its ilk in steel, gold, platinum, and gem set beauties over the years, the 5711 was not actually all that popular upon its initial release. 

With its 40mm diameter case, svelte 8.3mm thickness, and that iconic Gerald Genta case design (call them “ears”, and you’ll never unsee it again), the stellar casework and finishing combined with a top-of-the-line comfort on the wrist meant that what was once under the radar and eclipsed by its kin such as the reference 5712, would soon see eventual success with the more recent craze of steel sports integrated bracelet watches (which I dub the “Genta Wave”). 

Another case of an overlooked watch becoming a hit under all the right conditions: The brand heritage of Patek, the storytelling X-Factor of Genta design, and the rarity of steel sports Patek watches all almost guaranteed the success of the 5711 which would eventually see auction results more than six times its MSRP.

3. Rolex Submariner (ref. 114060)

Rolex Submariner (ref. 114060)

Quick exercise: Picture a watch in your head. Any watch. What did you see? Chances are, you saw a dive watch with a black rotating bezel, a black dial with white hands and indices on the archetypal oyster bracelet. Its name? The Rolex Submariner.

Originally launched in 1953, the Rolex Submariner and its Date counterpart (there is truly only the “Submariner” and “Submariner Date” in official Rolex terms) are definitive icons not only in the watch community but in the broader world community as well. If Rolex is the most famous luxury watch brand, the Submariner is, by default, its most iconic watch.

And you don’t have to take (pre-Brosnan era) James Bond’s word for it, or everyone who decided to mark a milestone in their lives by purchasing a Submariner in the decades since. Among its evolutionary line, the 114060 is a particularly interesting watch from an investment standpoint. Being the last of the 40mm case size Submariners (replaced by the 41mm 124060 in 2020), the 114060 actually came out a year after its date steel counterpart (116610LN).

With a shorter run than the 116610LN and its relatively smaller overall production numbers (with the Date version eclipsing the Submariner with an estimated 2:1 ratio), the 114060 occupies a unique slot within the Submariner lineup as a safe investment given the overall popularity of the Submariner line, and the relative rarity the 114060 presents within it.

4. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202 “Jumbo”

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202 “Jumbo”

An icon, and one of the most popular watches on the planet, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202 “Jumbo” was discontinued in 2021. Discontinue any watch of the 15202’s iconic stature and status, and you’ll almost always find a safe placeholder in your watch collection.

After all, if an uber-popular watch isn’t being made anymore and fewer and fewer can be found, rarity and price sensitivity ensue. Acting as a clear call back to the original steel Royal Oak as designed by Gerald Genta, the contemporary 15202 was announced in 2012 as part of the 40th anniversary of the Royal Oak.

In the years since, we’ve seen various stunning interpretations of the 15202 in White Gold (15202BC), Titanium and Platinum (15202IP), and even full Yellow Gold (15202BA). But, it’s arguably the original steel reference (15202ST) that is the definitive luxury sports watch.

After all, the Royal Oak is the original luxury sports watch. With a 39mm size case, 8.1mm thickness, powered by the calibre 2121, and finished to perfection, anyone lucky enough to have the 15202 on their wrist has already made it; investment potential be damned.

5. Omega Speedmaster First Omega In Space (ref. 311.32.40.30.01.001)

Omega Speedmaster First Omega In Space (ref. 311.32.40.30.01.001)

When speaking of brand icons, the Omega Speedmaster is a genuine archetype. Nearly synonymous with the achievements of NASA in the space age for watch geeks, it was the Speedmaster CK2998 worn on the wrist of astronaut Wally Schirra (his own, purchased privately) that holds the title of the first Omega watch in space, dating back to October 3rd, 1962 on the Mercury-Atlas 8 mission.

It was in commemoration of Schirra’s achievement (orbiting the Earth six times onboard the Sigma 7 spacecraft) that Omega decided to launch the 60th-anniversary reference to the original in the “First Omega In Space” Speedmaster (FOIS) in 2012.

Now discontinued in 2020, the FOIS took inspiration from the original CK2998 with its 39.7mm diameter case size and symmetrical straight lugs (as opposed to the now emblematic twisted lugs of the “Professional” Speedmaster) worn on a leather strap, anticipating an era of vintage leaning aesthetics in a contemporary watch design that continues to this day.

From an investment standpoint, we have here in the FOIS a variant of an all-out watch archetype with a limited eight-year production run (an estimated 15,000-16,000 made based on numbered edition marked watches listed on the secondary market), with a vintage fit and appeal no longer available in the Speedmaster line.

6. Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5968G-010

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5968G-010

The heavy hitters continue. It was John Mayer who once described the Patek Philippe Aquanaut as “the Chuck Taylor version of Patek Philippe”. If you can afford one, or even afford the opportunity to buy one, count yourself among the lucky. For when even a watch’s composite rubber strap is highly collectible, you know the timepiece it’s attached to is even more special.

Often thought of as the more affordable alternative to the Nautilus and supposedly geared towards a younger demographic, aside from the flex and literal buy-in required to purchase the watch, at its core, Mayer’s assertion is correct.

Available in Khaki Green (Electric Blue and Bright Orange variants exist, among others), with a modern 42.2mm diameter and 11.9mm thickness, the grenade-like dial and vibrance of the Aquanaut imbue the wearer with the ultimate sense of high-low in watch wear.

The best of old-world watchmaking and finishing with the Patek name and brand values (cue in the precious metal white gold case material), with the modern and punchy design to take a kicking and keep on ticking. These characteristics make the Aquanaut a highly in-demand model to this day.

7. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph (ref. 26470OR.OO.1000OR.01)

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph (ref. 26470OR.OO.1000OR.01)

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph (26470OR) was first introduced in 2014. Featuring a pink gold case, bracelet, and dial, encased in a 42mm diameter and 14.6mm thickness water resistant to 100m, the Offshore Chronograph is an unabashed luxury sports watch.

With the Offshore line being traditionally a testing ground for Audemars Piguet in materials, limited edition models, and endorsements, this particularly robust (read “massive”) Offshore is a thick chunk of pink rose gold material, accentuated with an integrated bracelet recalling the original Royal Oak beauty of yore, while coupled with ceramic crown surrounds and chronograph pushers, a remarkably modern addition, along with a sapphire display case back.

AP is truly at the top of the game with their level of finishing and refinement, and it’s no wonder that the dichotomy of the Offshore’s seemingly uncharacteristic bold and rough sportiness coupled with a sense of ultra sophistication has created one of the more popular watches for collectors of the brand to date. In terms of investment, sometimes you need to spend money to make money, and the Offshore is indeed one fun way to do it.

8. Vacheron Constantin Overseas 4500V Brown Dial

Vacheron Constantin Overseas 4500V Brown Dial

At Vacheron Constantin’s 2016 showing at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), the third generation of the Overseas (4500V) was released to much fanfare. In blue and silver dial variations, the updates over the previous generation Overseas models (all the way back to 1996) showed us that the Overseas was a line that again deserved to be in the conversation alongside outside brand rivals in the Royal Oak and Nautilus integrated bracelet, steel sports range.

Featuring a 41mm stainless steel case in tonneau style, the 4500V is 11mm thick and water resistant to 150 meters. The movement is protected against magnetic fields up to 25,000 A/m with its soft iron casing ring and is available on a steel bracelet, rubber, or leather strap.

And while the blue and silver dial variants are drool-worthy in their own right with their refinement and build quality, it was the brown dial 4500V/110A-B146 variant released in May 2016, a few months after SIHH, that’s a particularly good investment for the discerning collector as it was discontinued only one year later.

Again, we fall back to rarity and X-Factor; A holy trinity grade watch, representative of a steel sports/integrated bracelet line, limited to a one-year production, with arguably the loveliest shade of brown on a luxury watch yet (Seriously; Why aren’t there more?).

9. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (ref. 116500LN)

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (ref. 116500LN)

No surprises here; The Rolex “Panda” Daytona (116500LN) makes the list. With a history going as far back as 1963, the first Cosmograph chronograph was decidedly not a hit. Despite its associations with the Daytona Speedway 24-Hour endurance race (of which Rolex became the official timekeeper for in the 60s), it was a watch famously sold off at a heavy discount and often coupled with the purchase of full gold Datejusts in the 70s and 80s (anecdotal, but you catch my drift) which were the best sellers at the time.

In other words, it was the unwanted outcast of the bunch. But where unpopularity ends, rarity and scarcity take hold. Throw in the celebrity factor (insert Paul Newman), and keen heads began to take note. Ultimately, we know the modern ceramic Daytona as one of the most unattainable watches at retail in current times, with supposed waitlists in the double-digit years.

And yet, regardless of the hype and phenomenon that accompanies the Daytona legend, we have a watch that at its core has evolved on a technical level with the calibre 4130 (quiet progress; Rolex’s way) in a 904L Oystersteel case and bracelet, measuring 40mm in diameter (officially; on the wrist, it’s closer to a 39mm) and 12.2mm thick. All of which to say, a watch that wears perfectly. Whether you purchase it for the hype or investment purposes or to simply enjoy it on your wrist, you won’t find disappointment here.

10. Omega Speedmaster “Alaska Project” (ref.311.32.42.30.04.001)

Omega Speedmaster “Alaska Project” (ref.311.32.42.30.04.001)

Timeline: the early 1970’s. NASA is considering exploration of the dark side of the moon; Omega develops an outer case for the Speedmaster watch to help withstand the harsh and extreme temperatures of Outer Space. Its name: “Alaska Project”. Fast forward to 2008, when Omega decides to release a limited and numbered edition of the “Alaska Project’ to the public, in 1970 pieces available world wide in commemoration of its historic exploits.

With it’s stark white dial, contrasted against the now iconic sub dial “Apollo Hands”, the Alaska Project Speedmaster is an otherwise standard Speedmaster Professional case and calibre 1861 movement that also features a large red-anodized aluminum outer case (57mm diameter x 23mm thick) which when coupled to the watch, enables it to withstand temperatures between -148 degrees celsius, to +250 degrees celsius. It’s big, it’s bold, and it’s rare.

11. Rolex Daytona “John Mayer”

Rolex Daytona “John Mayer”

The second Daytona on our list, everything we said prior still rings true for the “John Mayer”, reference 116508. In fact, the “John Mayer” name came only from its association with the famous singer-songwriter after he revealed the watch as part of his collection.

He regarded it as an obvious hit that was being overlooked, and just like that, the solid yellow gold watch with its stunning Rolex green dial became an overnight sensation. Consequent rumors of its eventual discontinuation year after year since have only added to increased speculative values. John was right; this one’s a hit.

12. Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre (ref. 233.32.41.21.01.001)

Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre (ref. 233.32.41.21.01.001)

Omega’s ties to the James Bond cinematic empire date back to the Pierce Brosnan era of the 1990s. With the traditional wave dial Bond Seamaster now being an icon in its own right, we propose looking at what could be that model’s antithesis; The straight lug, broad arrow Seamaster 300 Spectre edition based on the CK2913 of the late 1950s.

The Spectre is an attractive watch that leans into the design cues and aesthetics of the 50s and 60s, coupled with the modern innovations of Omega technology such as the Co-Axial and calibre 8400 movement. In total, 7007 pieces were made.

13. Richard Mille RM055 “Bubba Watson”

Richard Mille RM055 “Bubba Watson”

Bubba Watson, the famous American professional golf player, has partnered with Richard Mille since 2011. Though many models have been built for Watson (for example: the RM038, a direct inspiration for the RM055), the RM055, in particular, is a highly technical and innovative sports watch hand-finished to high watchmaking tradition standards.

Richard Mille, renowned for their unique case and baseplate materials and research, combines rubber, titanium, carbon fiber, sapphire, and ceramic in a highly skeletonized tonneau case with the “Bubba Watson”. Built to handle extreme sports and high impact, truly any Richard Mille watch is an investment in both price to acquire and expressive (yet functional) design.

14. Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980/1R

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980/1R

A 45-hour power reserve, fly-back sports chronograph in 18k rose gold, the 5980/1R simply oozes class with its 40.5 mm diameter x 12.2mm thick case, all the while water resistant up to 120 meters. With a 21k gold central rotor powering its manufacture CH 28-520 C movement, what truly sets the 5980/1R apart is its solid rose gold bracelet (and that finishing), formerly available in rose gold only on a leather strap before 2013. This is a bold watch for the boldest of collectors only, and at over 253 grams unsized, it’s a true investment piece that could be the center of any watch portfolio (if not said portfolio’s center of gravity). 

15. Richard Mille RM27-04 “Rafael Nadal”

Richard Mille RM27-04 “Rafael Nadal”

Surely, any watch with a million-dollar price tag should be considered an “investment”. But what makes the RM27-04 “Rafael Nadal” special? Why the price tag? Limited to 50 pieces, we have a watch with a suspended tourbillon and movement within a micro-blasted, stainless steel mesh joined to two PVD-treated gold tensioners.

Anchored at the 1 and 5 o’clock positions, its forward-thinking design allows the watch to withstand upwards of 12,000 G’s, which sure sounds a heck of a lot more than anything Nadal (or you and I, for that matter) could swing a tennis racket at.

16. IWC Ingenieur SL “Jumbo” Ref. 1832

IWC Ingenieur SL “Jumbo” Ref. 1832

Stainless steel sports watch: Check. Integrated bracelet: Check. Actual honest Gerald Genta (not derived) design: Checkmate. While we often think of the Royal Oak and Nautilus as the two main pillars of Genta design, for true nerds, the Ingenieur is right up there as the third pillar in the designer’s achievements (you weren’t thinking of his Mickey Mouse watches, were you?).

A 40mm tonneau-shaped case, 12.5mm thickness, with a five-drilled hole round bezel and graph paper like guilloché, we have all the hallmarks of a Genta classic, and as an investment piece, you could do much worse.

17. Tudor Submariner 7928

Tudor Submariner 7928

Originally conceived by Rolex founder, Hans Wilsdorf, to be the affordable alternative to the Rolex brand, Tudor watches have earned their place in history as much more than just the “little sibling to big brother”. With ties to historic expeditions of their own to partnerships with militaries the world over, vintage Tudor watches, in particular, have seen a massive spike in interest in recent years as collectors become outpriced or disinterested in the evergreen Rolex model equivalents.

Introduced in 1959, the Tudor Submariner, reference 7928 in particular, saw production for nearly 10 years. It had two notable firsts: the introduction of crown guards and a larger case size (up from 37mm of the reference 7924 prior to 39mm in the 7928). Over its ten-year production span, upwards of at least six documented variants were produced. However, the MK1 “square crown guards” variant is among the rarest, with only an estimated 100 known in existence.

18. Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42 Infinity Edition

Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42 Infinity Edition

Continuing the theme of steel sports, integrated bracelet watches dominating the collectors market, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42 Infinity Edition was released in limited production (188 units) in partnership with watch retailer Wempe, sold exclusively through Wempe locations in London, Germany, and New York after its debut in 2020.

As the name implies, the watch is 42mm in diameter, matched with a thickness of only 10.7mm, featuring an anti-reflective sapphire crystal and display caseback whilst providing 100m of water resistance and 54 hours of power reserve. But perhaps the true star of the show is that black onyx dial contrasted with pink gold markers. To infinity and beyond.

19. F.P. Journe Elegante 48

F.P. Journe Elegante 48

Independent darling brand (and living watchmaker) F.P. Journe has seen a meteoric rise in the watch-collecting market in the past decade. With its unique and unrivaled sense of design and innovation respecting the tradition of watchmaking, it was no coincidence, given the level of watchmaking and scarcity of its product.

Among such achievements, in the Elegante 48, we see the Calibre 1210, 8 years in development. A largely hand-finished quartz movement that can put itself to sleep after 35 minutes of inactivity, a microprocessor then remembers the time so that when reactivated from physical movement, the hands jump back to the correct time.

Impressively, with regular use, the battery can provide upwards of 8-10 years of life, whereas its theoretical maximum is an unthinkable 18 years of life if left in a dormant state. Embrace the quartz revolution with the Journe Elegante 48.

20. Tudor Prince Day Date

Tudor Prince Day Date

Debuting in 1952, the Tudor Prince line was the foundation of Tudor watches, occupying the space equivalent to the Datejust and Day-Dates of the Rolex world. Classically styled, the Prince Day Date, in particular, features an oyster style case with a jubilee bracelet and the unmistakable day wheel at 12 o’clock, with a traditional style date and date magnifier at 3 o’clock a la the Rolex “President”.

Though now discontinued, the 76200 reference available since the 1990s can still be found in good condition as an alternative daily wearer to more expensive options from Rolex and even the current Tudor catalog. As collectors look back to uncover neo-vintage gems from the 1990s and early 2000s, Tudor’s brand popularity today almost guarantees that models like the Prince Day Date won’t be overlooked for much longer.

Conclusion

“Investment” has become almost a dirty word in the watch hobby. But the factors that make a good investment watch are also the things that make a watch worth collecting: Rarity, personality, differentiation, and time-proven design.

Furthermore, understanding investment value and thinking of watches as an asset doesn’t need to negate the joy we get from owning them. It’s merely one part of the spectrum in our collective watch journeys and ultimately helps us understand our tastes and preferences in a new light.

best mechanical watches

Mechanical watches are timepieces that utilize non-electronic means of keeping the time. Just about any watch that isn’t quartz (save for Grand Seiko, but more on that later) is considered a mechanical watch. While the original mechanical watches were all hand-wound, the technology eventually advanced to the point where self-winding or automatic watches became the standard. 

While mechanical watches aren’t necessarily the most high-tech timepieces on the market, there’s just something special about that analog feel you get with a traditional mechanical watch. That’s why the luxury watch market is mostly comprised of mechanical watches rather than quartz watches.

What Is a Mechanical Watch?

Mechanical watches utilize a mainspring which is wound to release that energy in short bursts, using gears to keep accurate time. Even though the first mechanical watches had to be wound by hand in order to keep time, the development of automatic watches allowed for a rotor that spins using the movement of your hand to continuously wind the mainspring.

There’s beauty, and some might even say romance, to the inner and outer workings of a mechanical watch. A mechanical watch releases energy in small quick bursts, which allows the second hand to sweep somewhat smoothly across the dial. This is a pleasing sight to most watch collectors and something that a quartz watch simply can’t replicate.

In the late 1960’s Japanese watchmakers developed the quartz movement, which allowed for a battery to send an electrical signal through a quartz crystal, which would regulate the time. It was more accurate than most mechanical watches and never needed to be wound. 

The main disadvantage to quartz was that you had to continually change the battery. However, to some watch collectors, quartz is too clinical and cold. They prefer the mechanical heartbeat of a hand-wound or automatic watch, and quartz just can’t scratch that itch.

The most obvious external difference between a mechanical watch and a quartz watch is the second hand. As stated above, mechanical watches tend to have a smooth sweep of the second hand

On the other hand, quartz watches tick one second at a time, which is manifested in a slowly ticking second hand across the dial. While it doesn’t have an impact on the accuracy of the watch, it’s something that’s just not as pleasing to many collectors as that smooth mechanical sweep.

Types of Mechanical Watches

Hand-wound mechanical watches are just as they sound, wound by hand. These were the first mechanical watches that were available. Every day or two, a hand-wound mechanical watch must have its crown rotated.

This builds up the energy in the mainspring, which gets released throughout the day, allowing the timepiece to keep accurate time. Later, watchmakers and engineers developed the automatic movement. While this movement works in essentially the same way as a hand-wound one, there’s a single difference.

Rather than requiring the crown to be rotated, the watch has an internal weighted rotor. The rotor spins around whenever the user walks or moves their hands, winding the mainspring. This allows for a more user-friendly and less labor-intensive experience for the wearer.

The Best Mechanical Watches

That’s why we’ve compiled this list of the 20 best mechanical watches at every price level. Because you shouldn’t have to sacrifice the joy of having a mechanical watch on your wrist just because of the cost. Read on to see the best options at every price point, and you’re sure to find at least one that meets your needs.

Seiko SRPD55

Seiko SRPD55

Seiko is known for having high-quality watches at nearly every price point, so it’s fitting that we start our list with this classic Seiko option. The SRPD55 comes from the vaunted Seiko 5 collection of steel sports watches. It has a diameter of 42.5mm, making it both comfortable and legible. 

It also includes an automatic Seiko movement with a 41-hour power reserve, a unidirectional rotating dive bezel, and a tri-fold clasp. To top it off, the SRPD utilizes Seiko’s proprietary LumiBrite lume and Hardlex crystal, offering a whole lot of bang for your buck. Wear this beauty out in the water, and you’ll likely garner as much respect as those wearing a Rolex Submariner. 

This watch is priced at $295.

Seagull 1963

Seagull 1963

Seagull is a brand with an interesting history. Initially conceptualized by the Chinese government in the mid-20th century, Seagull was first created to create high-quality watches for the Chinese military. This model, ref. 6345G-2901 is a reimagining of their original 1963 hand-wound chronograph manufactured for the Chinese Air Force. 

The movement is a Seagull ST21, based on the classic Venus hand-wound movement. When Swiss company Venus needed to sell all their old movement-making equipment, the Chinese government purchased it and installed it in their factory.

The watch comes with a classically-sized 38mm case, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, 21,600 VPH, and a 45-hour power reserve when fully wound. This is an affordable watch with looks, heritage, and functionality, all for less than $400.

This watch is priced at approximately $400.

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical

When it comes to legendary field watches, few models are more respected than the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical. This particular model, ref. H69439931 comes with a traditional case size of 38mm, the Hamilton H-50 hand-wound movement, and availability on a steel bracelet or fabric nato strap. 

This watch is all about braving the great outdoors and getting home safely. The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical has a loyal following, even among those who collect watches in the tens of thousands of dollars. It’s a dependable workhorse and one with real heritage and history. And it comes at a great price to boot, so what are you waiting for?

This watch is priced at $575.

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Blue Dial

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Blue Dial

The Tissot PRX, ref. T137.407.11.041.00 is a watch that was released using inspiration from one of their earlier models from the late 1970s and early 1980s. Utilizing a slim integrated bracelet and modern case design, the PRX quickly became a “must-have” throughout the greater watch community. 

It utilizes Tissot’s famed Powermatic 80 automatic movement that boasts a whopping 80-hour power reserve. The case measures 40mm in diameter and includes a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, a display case back, and a beautiful textured dial.

If you want to be in with the cool watch crowd but don’t want to spend thousands, then the PRX is the way to go. It also comes in a black and a gorgeous deep green dial variant. 

This watch is priced at $675.

Seiko Prospex SPB143

Seiko Prospex SPB143

Seiko is a giant in the world of watches at almost every level. This solid diver that can be found for less than $1000 is the perfect example of why the Japanese brand is so revered. It has a perfect diameter of 40.5mm, 200m of water resistance, a 24-jewel Seiko automatic movement, and a full 70 hours of power reserve. Unlike many other Seiko divers, this one comes with a solid sapphire crystal rather than Seiko’s proprietary Hardlex, making it even more durable for those long days in the water.

This watch is priced at $575.

Longines Flagship Heritage 

Longines Flagship Heritage

Longines is a legacy Swiss brand that offers something for just about anyone in the watch world. With their Flagship Heritage models, they went back to their roots and delivered a classic dress watch.

Offered in silver and black dial models, this (ref.L47954782) 38.5mm stunner has a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, a small seconds function, a 6 o’clock date window, and an automatic movement with 42 hours of power reserve. This gorgeous watch is perfect for a night out on the town or a day at the office. 

This watch is priced at $1200.

Oris Aquis Caliber 400

Oris Aquis Caliber 400

Oris creates some of the best mid-range dive watches on the market. The foundation of their dive watch line, with good reason, is the Aquis Caliber 400 (ref. 01 400 7763 4135.) Available in a few different colors, the Aquis Caliber 400 comes in a sturdy 43.5mm case.

It’s also available in a slightly less expensive option, with a third-party movement. This one has all the bells and whistles of a luxury dive watch, including a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, a self-winding automatic movement, and a gorgeous ceramic bezel insert.

But the Aquis isn’t just another pretty face (although it has that too). You get a depth rating of 300 meters, so this is a real diver that can take a whole lot of wear and tear in the water.

This watch is priced at $3700.

Oris Pro Pilot X Caliber 400

Oris Pro Pilot X Caliber 400

While Oris may be best known for their dive watches, their pilot watches are almost as popular. The Pro Pilot X is a gorgeous line incorporating Oris’ heritage of pilot’s watches with modern design and materials. The beautiful textured outer bezel gives the watch dimension, while the dial is all about refinement and simplicity, also offering a date window at 6 o’clock. 

The case and the bracelet are both made from lightweight titanium, making this one of the most comfortable watches you’ll ever own. It also has a power reserve of 120 hours, a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and a screw-down crown which helps the watch offer a water resistance of 100 meters. While this blue variation (ref.  01 400 7778 7155-07 7 20 01TLC) is lovely, it also comes in gray or bright salmon colors.

This watch is priced at $4300.

Tudor Black Bay 58

Tudor Black Bay 58

What can we say about the Tudor Black Bay 58 (ref.M79030N-0001) that hasn’t already been said? It has a diameter of 39mm, a sapphire crystal, snowflake hands, a 70-hour power reserve, and a screw-down crown with 200 meters of water resistance.

The design of the case and the dial go back to the days of vintage Rolex and Tudor divers, and the smaller case size takes those similarities even further. 

The watch’s name was derived from the first-ever Tudor dive watch. It’s an example of how going back to what made a brand great in the first place can take them even further. The Tudor Black Bay 58 just might be the perfect dive watch for anyone. 

This watch is priced at $4300.

IWC Mark XX

IWC Mark XX

IWC made a name for themselves by creating legendary pilot’s watches. The famed Schaffhausen watchmaker has created some of the most iconic timepieces of the past century, and the Mark XX (ref. IW328204) lives up to that standard.

IWC is one of the most underappreciated brands in the Swiss watch market, especially in terms of its value proposition. With its straightforward pilot dial design and gorgeous blue color, this watch is just as impressive at a fancy dinner party as it is in the cockpit.

It has a moderate width of 40mm but a surprisingly svelte height of just 10.8mm, making it fit perfectly under a cuff. The three o’clock date window and automatic movement with 120 hours of power reserve make this model fly out of boutiques, so get one while you still can.

This watch is priced at $3950.

Grand Seiko SBGA211

Grand Seiko SBGA211

Grand Seiko is all about beauty and precision. The SBGA211 offers all that and more. Starting with perhaps the best thing about this watch, it’s powered by Seiko’s patented Spring Drive movement. The Spring Drive is a mechanical movement that uses a quartz crystal to regulate timekeeping. 

This means it has the best of both worlds, combining the romance of mechanical watchmaking with the technical superiority of quartz technology. That gives it an accuracy of plus or minus one second per day.

It also has a power reserve display and one of the most stunning textured dials you’ll find anywhere. Add to that a lightweight titanium case and 100 meters of water resistance, and you might never need to own another watch again.

This watch is priced at $6200.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M

The Omega Seamaster range offers a real dive watch for real divers. That’s not to say that everyone else can’t enjoy it just as much. This gorgeous blue dial watch (ref. 210.30.42.20.03.001) has the signature Seamaster wave pattern, a 42mm case size, the Omega caliber 8800 movement, with George Daniels’ famed coaxial escapement, and 300 meters of water resistance. 

On top of all that, the AR-coated sapphire crystal will stay pristine for years, and the comfortable steel bracelet will make you forget that you’re even wearing a watch, even in the harsh sea elements. In addition to the standard Seamaster Diver 300M, the Seamaster Aqua Terra is a great alternative for those who want all of the technical benefits of a dive watch but prefer a more simple and dressy look. After all, the Seamaster Diver 300M and the Aqua Terra were good enough for James Bond, so they should be good enough for you!

This watch is priced at $5600.

Omega Speedmaster Professional

Omega Speedmaster Professional

We love this watch to the moon and back, as did the astronauts. The Speedmaster Professional (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002) is one of the most widely recognized watches in the world, mainly because it left this world on a rocket ship.

The iconic chronograph is one of the most robust and accurate timepieces available on the market. The standard Speedmaster Professional model has a hand-wound in-house chronograph movement and a diameter of 42mm but wears closer to 40mm or 41mm because of the tachymeter that runs around the outside. 

The dial is monochromatic and highly legible, making for the perfect tool watch for all of your timekeeping needs. If you’re a history buff and appreciate beautiful watches, then the Speedmaster Professional has everything you’ll ever want in a watch.

For those who really want to own a piece of history, the famed Omega 321 movement Speedmaster might be worth buying. This is the same as the standard Speedmaster Professional, but the movement is almost identical to the one that was in the very first Speedmaster “moon watch”.

This watch is priced at $7600.

Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date

Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date

Glashütte Original is a German watch brand that’s known for its classic styling and impressive attention to detail. The Sixties Panorama Date (ref. 2-39-47-06-02-04) is a great dress or casual watch, depending on how you style it. The bright blue sunburst dial is joyful and bold, and the vintage-style roman numerals and stick indices are pure class. 

The watch features a diameter of 42mm, a beautifully branded tang buckle clasp, 40 hours of power reserve, and a domed sapphire crystal. It also includes a convenient date window just above the six o’clock position, a function that most people use even more than they ever expected.

This watch is priced at $8000.

Rolex GMT Master II

Rolex GMT Master II

Rolex is perhaps the most widely-known watch brand in the world. And the GMT Master II (ref. 126710BLRO) is just one of the reasons that the brand is so popular. GMT stands for Greenwich Mean Time. This watch allows you to track three time zones simultaneously, using an additional GMT hour hand and a rotating 24-hour bezel. 

The 100 meters of water resistance and convenient 40mm size make it a great everyday watch. The iconic red and blue “Pepsi” bezel makes this watch an absolute stunner that’s sure to inspire plenty of second looks. It’s one of the most iconic watches of all time and one that watch connoisseurs love all over the world.

This watch has an MSRP of $10700.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

If Rolex is the most famous watch brand in the world, then the Daytona (ref. 116500LN) just might be the most famous watch in the world. This gorgeous slim chronograph has been worn on the wrist of racing legends and movie stars alike. In the case of the “Paul Newman” Daytona, those two people are one and the same.

The watch has a diminutive profile at 40mm but a huge historical presence. The tri-compax design is appealing to the eye but not too flashy.

It has 100 meters of water resistance due to the screw-down crown and pushers, an uncommon feature for chronographs. The black and silver monochromatic design is stunning in the light, and the watch goes with almost any type of dress, casual to formal.

This watch has an MSRP of $14800.

Hublot Big Bang Black Magic

Hublot Big Bang Black Magic

Hublot has gained popularity in recent years for its bold design language and sense of fun. The Big Bang Black Magic (301.CM.130.RX) has plenty of both. With a substantial size of 44mm, this watch makes a statement. The black riveted bezel and rubber strap complement the functional and highly legible chronograph dial. 

It has an automatic movement with 42 hours of power reserve, a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and 100 meters of water resistance. This watch is tough and durable, and it looks the part. 

This watch is priced at approximately $16000.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Vacheron Constantin is one of the “Holy Trinity”, as it’s called in watchmaking. It’s a legacy brand respected for its attention to detail and beautiful dials. When looking at this Overseas model (ref. 4500V/110A-B128), it’s no surprise.

The bright blue dial mimics the color of the ocean at different times of day, and the 41mm case size is perfect for everyday use. The watch has a water resistance of 150 meters and an AR-coated scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, so it’s much more than just another pretty face. 

This watch has an MSRP of $22500.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Another “Holy Trinity” brand, Audemars Piguet, has a virtual gold mine when it comes to their Royal Oak model (ref. 15202). Designed by legendary watch designer Gerald Genta, this 1970s-era sports model has captured the imagination of watch lovers the world over. It has a diameter of 39mm but wears much larger. 

The stylish integrated bracelet design has been copied by hundreds of other watch brands, and with good reason. It’s a stunning look on the wrist and one that is not easily ignored. The dial is no slouch, either. The gray-blue color with the “Petite Tapisserie” texture is subtle but confident. It also has an in-house automatic movement with 40 hours of power reserve and a respectable 50 meters of water resistance. 

This watch has an MSRP of $33200.

Patek Philippe Nautilus

Patek Philippe is perhaps the most revered watchmaker of all time. Their watches offer timeless style and undeniable quality. The Nautilus (ref. 5711), similar to the AP Royal Oak, is a classic 1970s sports watch design that will likely never go out of style. 

The geometrically shaped case and striped dial design are instantly recognizable, and it has real sports watch pedigree as well. The steel construction, automatic movement with 42 hours of power reserve, sapphire crystal, and 100 meters of water resistance make the Nautilus a giant among watches.

This watch has an MSRP of $34800.

Conclusion

Mechanical watches are a true beauty to observe due to their intricate moving parts. Thankfully, there are several options for watch enthusiasts to enjoy these engineering marvels across all budgets

I hope this list of the 20 best mechanical watches sparked an interest in starting your own mechanical watch collection. If you do, consider shopping at Exquisite Timepieces. We have a huge selection of affordable and luxury mechanical watches, and our team of experts is always available to help you choose the best one!

dr. strange watch

On the surface, esteemed neurosurgeon Dr. Stephen Strange seemed to have it all. He had fabulous wealth, a highly successful career, respect from his peers, and a blooming romance with fellow neurosurgeon Dr. Christine Palmer. 

Little did he know that his life was totally about to change, moving away from the concrete jungle of New York to a mystical world of magic and marvels. Strange eventually becomes something almost supernatural, but the one thing that does ground him to reality is his wristwatch.

About the Dr. Strange Watch

Accompanying Dr. Strange on his psychedelic journey that takes him everywhere from the slums of Nepal to a dimension parallel to our own is his Jaeger LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Perpetual. For Strange, this watch is the only thing he has left to remind himself of his past life after his spectacular fall from grace. 

Strange took immense pride in his work as a neurosurgeon, and this turned him into quite an arrogant person. While driving to a conference, Strange becomes distracted while driving and crashes his Lamborghini Huracán, sending him tumbling down the cliffside. He miraculously survives, but at an enormous cost: the use of his hands.

It is because of his desperation to heal his hands that Strange goes through numerous treatments to no avail. He eventually learns about a treatment that goes beyond medical science and travels far to seek the truth. The Jaeger LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Perpetual is not only an amazing part of Strange’s attire but also an enormous significance in the film.

Strange cherishes this watch so much because it is a gift from his love, Christine. Engraved on the watch’s caseback is the sweet quote, “Time will tell how much I love you”. These words comfort Strange when times are difficult, and as a future Sorcerer Supreme and Master of the Mystic Arts, life can only be complicated.  

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar Review

Of course, the most interesting thing about the movie for watch enthusiasts is perhaps the stunning Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar. This watch is prominently featured in scenes throughout the film, and its gorgeous moonphase complication is easily seen from afar. 

Jaeger-LeCoultre is sometimes referred to as “the watchmaker of watchmakers” for a good reason. The brand earns its reputation with classic, timeless designs and a staunch dedication to creating incredible timepieces.

JLC is known for various iconic designs, such as the Reverso and the Master Ultra-Thin. The watch featured in the movie is a pinnacle of watchmaking skill, with a perpetual calendar complication and a gorgeous, starry moonphase at the 12 o’clock position.

True to its name, the mechanics behind the watch are housed in a razor-thin case that is just another display of impressive watchmaking. One of the most attractive features of the watch is the paper-thin case width of just over 9mm.

Achieving this level of thinness is something only the most trained watchmakers can achieve. Much thinking must go into the design before such thinness becomes possible. This is a tough task because every part of the watch must be scrutinized even more than normal.

Unnecessary thickness is shaved off until all that is left is a movement that breathes life into the timepiece. Due to its thinness, the watch will easily fit under any suit jacket or shirt cuff. The Master Ultra-Thin Perpetual is 39mm in case diameter, which is suitable for any wrist size.

It is the perfect size for any gentleman fortunate enough to enjoy this horological masterpiece. The dial is truly a showstopper and will immediately draw attention to it. The perpetual calendar elegantly displays everything a person needs, magical superhero or not.

Perpetual calendars are named because they will keep track of various details like month and day of the week extremely accurately as long as the watch is running. They will provide accurate information on the day of the week, date, year, leap year, and phase of the moon.

Perpetual calendars don’t need to be adjusted by a watchmaker until the end of the century due to their complicated mechanics. It takes into account the number of days a month has and even tracks leap years. The watch on Strange’s wrist has a silvery-white dial and sharply cut silver hour markers.

The deep blue, starry moonphase is located at the 12 o’clock position, cut inside of an elegant crescent shape. At the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions are the date and day of the week, respectively. At the bottom of the watch at the 6 o’clock position is the month, and next to it is a small rectangle for the year.

Hidden behind the hands is a small day and night indicator. With just one glance, a wealth of information can be learned. The movement for the Master Ultra-Thin Perpetual is JLC’s Calibre 868. This automatic winding movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour, has a power reserve of 38 hours, 46 jewels, is water resistant up to 50 meters, and is carefully assembled out of 336 parts. 

This movement manages to power the perpetual calendar and the watch while being an astonishing 4.72mm in thickness. The beauty of this mechanical movement can be viewed through an open sapphire caseback. Of course, the timepiece in the movie is customized, with Christine’s special message for Strange etched into the caseback.

The strap is inky jet-black leather with careful stitching on the side and large rectangular alligator scales. The lug width is 21mm and is interchangeable for personal customization. Keeping the watch secured to the wrist is a double folding, stainless steel clasp. Both the strap and the clasp can be swapped out quickly due to its quick-release feature.

What Other Dr. Strange Watches Are Out There?

Before Strange’s unfortunate brush with fate, he was seen confidently preparing for his night out. After tidying his bowtie, he opens up his drawer and reveals a breathtaking watch collection. Audiences can only gasp as they view the opulent collection. All of his watches are on winders that will keep their movements functioning.

He has some truly stunning (and expensive) watches that suit his lucrative career as a successful New York neurosurgeon. We only get a glimpse of his luxurious collection for a few seconds, but below are a few others that he owns besides his Master Ultra-Thin Perpetual.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds Q397846J

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds Q397846J

What’s better than one JLC watch? How about two JLC watches? JLC evidently ensured that their watches were featured prominently in the superhero movie. In addition to the Master Ultra-Thin Perpetual, Strange also owns another iconic watch from JLC, the Reverso. 

The Reverso was originally designed to protect watches during polo matches. The solution was to have a case that could be flipped over, covering the watch face and revealing a smooth, stainless steel shield instead.

This reference number comes in various colors, from a classic dark black to a subdued burgundy. The timepiece is an attractive and exciting rectangular shape, with 45.6 x 27.4mm dimensions. There is no date on the dial, which helps preserve the watch’s delicate symmetry. 

At the 6 o’clock position is the expertly placed small seconds. The silvery hour marks and surgically cut dauphine hands shine in the sunlight. The strap snugly fits between the 20mm lugs and seamlessly wraps around the wrist. The movement is the JLC Calibre 822, featuring a 42 hours power reserve, 21,600 vibrations per hour, and 19 jewels. 

TAG Heuer Monaco Caliber 12 Final Edition CAW211J.FC6476

TAG Heuer Monaco Caliber 12 Final Edition CAW211J.FC6476

A Tag Heuer Monaco has its place in any luxury collection, and this limited edition Monaco is no exception. The Monaco is one of Tag Heuer’s most famous watches, being worn by the likes of Steve McQueen and Chris Hemsworth.

The masculine square shape is bold on the wrist and a voluminous 39 x 39mm. This 39mm looks even larger with the watch’s square shape. Limited to only 1,000 pieces worldwide, the Caliber 12 Final Edition is a granite grey color with a vertically brushed ruthenium dial. Engraved on the caseback is each watch’s unique limited edition number.

The strap is a classy black alligator leather with a bright red underbelly. Powering this racing-inspired watch is the Calibre 12 Automatic. This chronograph movement has a 40-hour power reserve and beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour.

Rolex Daytona 116520 White Dial

Rolex Daytona 116520 White Dial

Rolex is, for many, the peak of luxury watches. Ask someone to name a luxury timepiece, and Rolex will probably be the first brand that comes to mind. In Strange’s collection is the Rolex Daytona with a white dial. Also known as the Cosmograph Daytona, a word of Rolex’s creation, this chronograph is one of Rolex’s most desirable models.

There is simply no mistaking this watch, with its chunky chronograph pushers, red Daytona lettering, and tachymeter etched into the bezel. Originally used to help racecar drivers track elapsed time and average speed, the watch is now one of Rolex’s most luxurious and expensive models.

The Daytona is 40mm in diameter, which makes it a modern-sized watch for any wrist. The sub-dials feature the 30-minute and 12-hour markers, with the seconds located at 6 o’clock. 

The chronograph works in conjunction with the etched tachymeter on the bezel to help track driving speeds. Powering the Daytona is Rolex’s caliber 4130 movement, which is easier to service than previous Rolex chronograph movements due to using fewer parts. It has a considerable 72-hour power reserve and has 100 meters of water resistance.

Conclusion

Although he eventually became a superhero that protects the Earth from cosmic threats, Dr. Strange’s watches are still very much an important part of his extraordinary life. Watches mean a lot to different people, and for Strange, they represent a memory in the distant past. 

They are what ground him in the everyday worries of ordinary people and remind him about a time of lost love. Strange certainly has an impressive watch collection, and it is a treat and privilege for all of us to enjoy it with him.

15 best open back watches for all budget ranges

Are you in the market for a new open back watch? I relate with you. I love watches that allow me to glimpse the intricate engineering of their mechanisms. 

You don’t have to break the bank to find a quality watch with an exhibition case back. But honestly, you may have to spend on the high side to find timepieces with movement construction and finish worth the display case.

In this article, we’ve compiled a list of the 15 best open-back watches across budget ranges, so you can find the perfect watch to suit your style. From affordable quartz watches to high-end luxury timepieces, this comprehensive guide has something for everyone. So, without further ado, let’s dive into the world of open-back watches and discover what makes them so special.

About Open Back Watches

Open-back watches show the watchmakers pride in the engineering of their watch. They also offer you a chance to admire or show off the movement to another watch buff. These watches reveal the tiny gears, rotors, and springs working harmoniously to keep time running.

It’s like having a miniature Rube Goldberg machine on your wrist! But open-back watches are more than just a fascinating display of engineering. They are well-thought-out designs and can be pricey if you want to experience a movement worth showing off. 

History Of Open Back Watches

Display case backs have existed for centuries, but it’s uncertain when they were first made. However, Bovet, founded in 1822, claims to be the first brand to design an exhibition case watch. Time went on (pun intended), and watchmakers began to get more creative with their designs.

In the 19th century, watchmakers, in a bid to make the case backs more transparent, started to use materials like crystal. As expected, the watches stayed expensive, and only a few could afford them.

A. Lange & Söhne did release watches with enamored outer casings and transparent inner casings displaying the movement. Only in the 20th century did these watches become popular and more accessible, particularly amongst watch geeks, collectors, and enthusiasts. 

In the 1960s and 1970s, Swiss watchmakers began producing high-end luxury watches with open backs, such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony.

These watches were often produced in limited quantities and featured complex movements. Today, open back watches are everywhere and available in all sizes, shapes, and prices.

The Top 15 Open Back Watches

1. Seagull 1963 Mechanical Chronograph

Seagull 1963 Mechanical Chronograph

If you are looking for a stylish and affordable display case watch, consider the vintage-inspired Seagull 1963 Mechanical Chronograph. This proudly Chinese-made watch is touted as the most attainable mechanical watch.

The 38mm stainless steel case has a polished finish and is 12mm thick, which gives the watch a retro look. It’s a simple, clean dial with a blurry white background, black hour markers, and hands. Three sub-dials show the chronograph seconds, minutes, and hours.

One of the unique features of this watch is the movement. It uses a manual ST19 caliber, which is fairly accurate and reliable, with a power reserve of around 40 hours.

In terms of functionality, the Seagull 1963 Mechanical Chronograph is a basic chronograph with no additional features such as a date display or a tachymeter. In addition, there’s hearsay that its leather strap may be of lower quality. However, it packs plenty of value for its price.

Starts from approximately: $300.83

2. Seiko 5 SRPD71

Seiko 5 SRPD71

The Seiko 5 SRPD71 (also known as the SRPD71K1) is a stunning and unique timepiece. It combines a traditional style and elegance with contemporary functions. 

The watch is enclosed in a stainless steel case made of scratch-resistant Hardlex crystal that is 13.4mm thick and has a diameter of 42.5mm. It has a sturdy bracelet that makes the watch feel substantial on the wrist. 

Also, it sports a black dial with luminous hands and markers that make it simple to read in dim light. Additionally, the placement of the day/date function adds a practical touch to the overall design.

Other striking features of the Seiko 5 SRPD71 are the automatic and manual winding 4R36 caliber that provides reliable timekeeping and a 41-hour power reserve. The watch also has a 10 bar water resistance, making it suitable for swimming and other related activities.

Overall, the Seiko 5 SRPD71 is an excellent choice for sport watch lovers who also want some style and durability to go with it.

Starts from approximately: $350

3. Hamilton Jazzmaster Viewmatic (H32515555)

Hamilton Jazzmaster Viewmatic (H32515555)

Now here is one delightful combination of elegance and whimsy! I like to think of it as the James Bond of watches – cool, calm, and daring. Let’s start with the design. The Hamilton Jazzmaster Viewmatic (H32515555) has a classic look for formal occasions.

Its captivating white dial has dauphine hands and a mix of Arabic numerals and dagger indexes. It even has a big date at the 3 o’clock position, not to mention guilloche-like patterns in the middle of the dial. 

The Jazzmaster is pristine and refined with a matching 40mm stainless case.  And the Viewmatic naming is probably in reference to its exhibition-style case back that allows you to view the mechanical movement.

This Hamilton piece is powered by an H10 automatic caliber and features an 80-hour power reserve, which is unheard of at its price range.

It also has 25 jewels, but you’re only afforded a sight of its oscillating weight and parts of its wheels through its open case. Pair the Jazzmatic with its calf leather bracelet strap, and you have an elegant dress watch on a budget.

Starts from approximately: $910

4. Frederique Constant Manufacture Classic Moonphase (ref. FC-712MS4H6)

Frederique Constant Manufacture Classic Moonphase (ref. FC-712MS4H6)

The Frederique Constant Manufacture Classic Moonphase (ref. FC-712MS4H6), or as I like to call it, the “fancy watch that tells you when to howl at the moon,” is a work of art. It’s got a sleek silver and black design that’s sure to turn heads. 

The FC-712MS4H6 boasts other satisfactory attributes, like the calf leather black strap with croc-print and a folding buckle with push buttons. The polished stainless steel case has a 42mm diameter, a thickness of 11.6mm, and a 5 bar water resistance.

This case houses a matching silver dial and automatic central rotor mechanics that can be seen through the open case back and an FC-712 caliber. The moon phase and day-indicator subdials maintain the simple look of the dial.

In all, the Frederique Constant Manufacture Classic Moonphase is a watch that’s both stylish and practical. It’s perfect for the fashion-conscious werewolf who needs to keep track of lunar cycles or anyone who wants to look darn good while telling time.

Pricing: $3,172

5. NOMOS Tangente 38 (ref. 164)

NOMOS Tangente 38 (ref. 164)

The Tangente 38 is a minimalist’s dream come true, with clean lines, simple indices, and a stunningly understated dial. It’s the kind of watch that makes you feel like a savvy sophisticate just by wearing it, even if you’re just wearing sweatpants and a t-shirt.

But don’t be fooled by its simplicity – this Nomos watch is a veritable treasure trove of clever engineering. The in-house manual-winding caliber Alpha is a marvel of precision and efficiency, keeping the time with the kind of accuracy that would make an atomic clock blush.

And the sapphire crystal open back gives you a peek into the inner workings of this mechanical masterpiece and its aesthetic blend of purple, blue, gold, and silver colors. Of course, the Tangente 38 isn’t just a pretty face (with an even more beautiful back).

It’s also built to last, with a 43 hours power reserve and a round (37.50mm diameter) sturdy stainless steel case that can take a beating. And with a 30 meters water resistance, the watch is splash-proof.

Let’s not forget the little details that make the Tangente 38 so special. The slim blue steel hands, elegant markers, subtly curved lugs, and the Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan leather are a testament to the beauty of simplicity and the power of a great design.

Pricing: $1,912

6. Longines Master Collection (ref. L2.673.4.78.3)

Longines Master Collection (ref. L2.673.4.78.3)

The Longines Master Collection (ref. L2.673.4.78.3) is a perfect accessory for anyone who wants to feel like a high-roller. It’s stylish, functional, and toolsy. Now, let’s talk specs. The Longines Master Collection ref. L2.673.4.78.3 has a stainless steel case with a diameter of 42mm.

It’s a “barleycorn” silver-toned dial with a guilloche pattern and many markings in Arabic numerals. And its blue feuille hands give it a cool, relaxing look that calms its cluttered dial. It has standard 12-hour, 24-hour, small seconds, day-date-month indexes, and a moon phase indicator on the dial. 

This Longines Master is a complete date and timekeeping watch. It’s got a sapphire crystal open case back so that you can admire the intricate workings of its Longines caliber L678.2. Admittedly, half of the display is only the oscillating weight, so a watch critic might have some disapproving words. 

Another standout is its 64 hours of power reserve. So you can go more than two and a half days without winding it. If you love the idea of a full calendar and exhibition case watch, this Longines Master is a no-brainer.

Starts from approximately $2,300

7. Grand Seiko SBGP017

Grand Seiko SBGP017

This stunning timepiece was designed as a special anniversary edition of the 44GS. Its light blue dial and cloud-texture pattern were influenced by the sea of clouds of GS’s Shinshu studio. Now to the watch itself.

The SBGP017 is a part of Grand Seiko’s Sport Collection, so you know it’s made to withstand wear and tear. The case is made of high-strength titanium, which is both lightweight and durable. It also has a see-through sapphire crystal case back to glance at its quartz movement.

And if you thought that was impressive, wait until you hear about the diamond-cut hour markers and the date window at 3 o’clock. Further, the SBGP017 is powered by Grand Seiko’s 9F85 quartz movement, accurate to within +/- 5 seconds per year. So, if you value precision and reliability more than super-complications, this watch is for you. 

The open back shows the movement in all its glory, with a gold finish, gems, and battery on display. Ultimately, the SBG017 is a value-packed open back watch with a dial design, finishing, and durability ahead of its price range. Perfect choice if you don’t mind quartz. 

Starts from approximately: $3,800

8. Tudor Black Bay Ceramic (ref. M79210CNU-0001)

Tudor Black Bay Ceramic (ref. M79210CNU-0001)

The watch in black – the Tudor Black Bay is a classy watch any collector or enthusiast will jump at. It’s a premium dive watch with a micro-blasted black ceramic case, bezel, and hybrid leather-rubber strap. Only the white Tudor markers and hands give it a pop of color.

It’s reminiscent of a customized all-black BMW, or any all-black car for that matter. Surprisingly, the Black Bay’s dial is extremely easy to read in the dark or underwater. The case measures 41mm in diameter, making it a great size for most wrist sizes. 

Its exhibition case back offers excellent visibility of the watch’s inner workings, adding to its allure. The watch also features a screw-down crown and is water resistant up to 200m. But let’s get to the really important stuff – the movement.

Its METAS-certified MT5602 caliber, with a 70-hour power reserve and anti-magnetic up to 15,000 gausses. Of course, it’s also finished all-black with only a few contrasting gems and steel finishing. Overall, the Tudor Black Bay is a high-tech watch with fancy finishes and an exhibition case. 

Starts from approximately: $5,025

9. Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Blue (ref. 95.9002.9004/78.R590)

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Blue (ref. 95.9002.9004/78.R590)

The Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Blue (ref. 95.9002.9004/78.R590) is a magnificent skeleton watch that allows you to admire the intricate details of its movement, front, back, and center. Some major sights are the blue oscillating weight, the Zenith star logo on the rotor, and the counters.

Plus, a mindblowing 36,000 frequency on its El Primero movement. Additionally, the watch has a power reserve of 50 hours. And if you’re worried about getting wet, fear not – it’s water-resistant up to 100 meters.

Despite its seemingly complicated look and prominent case, it’s a classy dress watch. Its 44mm titanium case synchronizes with the rubber strap and tones of blue from the El Primero movement. The Defy El Primero will pass for a luxury sports watch, statement piece, and night dress watch. 

Starts from approximately: $8,814

10. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 5015 (ref. 5015 1130 52A)

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 5015 (ref. 5015 1130 52A)

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 5015 is a diver’s watch with stellar craftsmanship. The open back design is a great touch, allowing you a glimpse of its 227 components in action. Its sapphire crystal case back displays the oscillating weight, escapement, and balance wheel, all in motion.

The Fifty Fathoms 5015 in-house caliber 1315 has an impressive 120-hour power reserve. It is encased in a sizeable 45mm stainless steel case that’s comfortable to wear with its sail-canvas strap. 

It’s typically built for underwater use with a unidirectional rotating bezel, black dial, luminescent hands, and markers for legibility in low-light conditions and 300 meters of water resistance. If you love iconic watches that are bold to put their movements on display, the Fithy Fathoms is the true definition. 

Starts from approximately: $15,555

11. Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321 (ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001)

Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321 (ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001)

This watch is the perfect trifecta of watchmaking – combining style, function, and history. The Omega Speedmaster is easily one of the most beautiful display case watches ever. It houses the Caliber 321 – early Speedmaster models worn by NASA astronauts during the Apollo missions – that would leave you staring at in awe.

It’s a hand-wound movement with 18k rose gold finished components, a Breguet balance spring, and 55 hours of power reserve. Again, this is the moon caliber on display. The face of the watch is one of simplicity and class. 

It features a sleek black dial with contrasting white minute markings on the sub-dials and bezel tachymeter. Its 39.7mm 316L corrosion-resistant stainless steel case bracelets are sturdy and complete each other for a masculine instrument watch look.

Starts from approximately: $23,900

12. Glashütte Original SeaQ (ref. 1-39-11-17-91-33)

Glashütte Original SeaQ (ref. 1-39-11-17-91-33)

At the heart of the red gold SeaQ is Glashütte Original’s Caliber 39-11 automatic movement, which boasts an impressive power reserve of up to 40 hours. This movement is built to last, with its signature three-quarter plate and Glashütte stripes adding a touch of elegance to the watch’s overall aesthetic.

The SeaQ’s blue dial with its sunburst finish, lume on the hands, and indices are top-notch features that provide excellent legibility in any lighting condition. It’s no surprise for a dive watch with its water resistance rating of 300 meters.

This is thanks to a screw-down crown, a screw-down case back, and a unidirectional rotating bezel. The SeaQ has a stainless steel case with a sizable 43.2mm diameter, giving it a sporty and masculine feel that will turn heads.

One minor critique of the SeaQ is its lack of a date function, which some users may find inconvenient. However, this omission aligns with the watch’s classic design and isn’t exactly a dealbreaker for most.

Starts from approximately: $26,524

13. Breguet Classique Chronograph 3237

Breguet Classique Chronograph 3237

Next on my list of the best open back watches if you love ornamented watches is the Breguet Classique Chronograph 3237. Before you notice the display case, its artful case and dial should catch your (or anyone’s) attention. It’s a fluted 36mm 18k yellow gold case with pump pushers that gives a discreet but bold look. 

When you look closely, you’ll appreciate Breguet even more. The roman numeral hour markers and Breguet hands are like eye candy. But the show’s real star is the silver guilloché pattern on the dial.

It gives substance to the dial’s bare center and outer rings while allowing the hour markers and counters to shine. As if that’s not enough, your eyes stay full when you turn the Breguet Classique 3237 on its back. Its in-house caliber 533.3 takes up the space with fine engineering for you to gaze at.

It has a 48-hour power reserve. And with a 36.0mm case diameter and 10mm thickness, it’s big enough to make a statement without being so big that it looks like you’re wearing a clock on your wrist.

Starts from approximately: $24,400

14. Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 6119G-001)

Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 6119G-001)

In a world of iconic dress watches, the Patek Philippe Calatrava collection is a line of A-listers. It is a true classic that embodies the timeless elegance and understated style that Patek Philippe is known for. 

The 6119G-001 displays the manually-wound in-house Caliber 30-255 PS in a full-circumference open case back. It gives you a full view of the back, with the movement’s jewels, rotor, and golden wheels with Patek Phillipe Seal in sight. 

The 30-225 has 165 parts in total and a power reserve of 65 hours. You’ll need as many hours to study the complication and geek out with your watch pals.

Moving on, the 6119G has a refreshing dial of understated luxury. It’s a charcoal gray background in a visible vertical satin finish with applied white gold stick markers and dauphine hands. 

Further, it features a 39mm 18k white gold case. It also has a stunning and meticulous hobnail guilloche bezel design. 

More impressively, the case is only 8.08mm thick, which makes it super-dressy and comfortable on any outfit. Especially when you pair it with the shiny black alligator strap with square scales.  Overall, the 6110G Calatrava is crafted to perfection.

Starts from approximately: $27,818

15. A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Platinum (ref. 425.025)

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Platinum (ref. 425.025)

The 1815 Rattrapante Platinum is a stunning 200-piece limited edition display case watch. First off, it’s powered by a manually-wound in-house chronograph movement – Caliber L101.2. So there’s a handful to exhibit in its sapphire glass case back.

More specifically, the movement has 631 individual components, running a “rattrapante” (or split-seconds) complication that times two events simultaneously. As a result, the movement has a super-complicated switching process, with two column wheels and a rattrapante clamp, which you can observe through the glass.

It delivers a power reserve of up to 58 hours before it needs to be rewound. Unsurprisingly, A. Lange & Söhne delivers an artistic dial to carry this beautiful movement. In addition, it has an argenté-finish that complements its 41mm 950 platinum case.

The blue hands, black Arabic numerals, and minute track look clean and legible on the silver dial. Impressively, the Rattrapante’s stellar movement and dial are packed into a 12.6mm thick case. Its lightweight and portability make it a go-to statement piece or casual watch for the elite.

Starts from approximately: $140,000

Conclusion

Display case watches are not built equal, nor are people’s tastes in watches. The best open-back watches, admittedly, only get better with the price. So, if you’re focused on the finishing and complication of the movement on display, we suggest you pick from the last 10 watches on the list. 

Ultimately, you’ll find a value-packed option whether you’re on a tight or affluent budget. If it’s on this list, it’s worth showing off. 

Best Solar Dive Watches

Ever had your power reserve run out just as you were about to use the chronograph function? Was your quartz movement not quite enough to impress that watch dude at your business meeting? 

Well, how about the Solar watches? Better yet, how about combining the functionality of a solar watch with the utility of a dive watch? 

Solar dive watches are not for everyone, but when you start thinking about all the versatility they offer, they might be a dark horse… 

About Solar Dive Watches

As you may know, watches either come with a mechanical or quartz movement. Well, not all. There are a few that are slightly different from the rest, like the Spring Drive from Grand Seiko. However, rising above all the rest is the Solar watch. 

As the name suggests, these types of watches are powered by solar energy or by artificial light. Typically, the solar panel(s) are located behind the crystal of the watch. From there, it’s simple physics really; sunlight is absorbed by the PV cells in the panel, and the energy is converted into electrical charges that move in response to an internal electric field in the cell, causing electricity to flow.

This electricity is then transferred into a rechargeable cell to power the watch during dark times. This unique technological approach might not seem the most romantic of all the watches you could get your hands on, but it is something that is remarkably useful in actual tool watches. 

This is why you find it in dive, field, and aviation watches. These were engineered to be as practical as possible, and what’s more practical than being powered by a massive nuclear fusion reactor millions of miles away? 

The History Of Solar Dive Watches

While watches have been worn all throughout the 1900s, the first wristwatch to be powered by the sun was the Synchronar 2100, developed by an American engineer named Roger W. Riehl in 1972. The watch was quirky, and while it was visionary, it wasn’t incredibly sleek. 

The top of the watch featured two large panels while the time was digitally displayed on the side; funnily enough, this makes it a rather food driver’s watch. This was just after Seiko released the first quartz-powered watch in 1969, so the world was eager for more development. 

From there, the technology was relegated to more cost-effective wristwatches, especially those made in Japan. While some Swiss companies have made use of the tech, it’s certainly not commonplace. 

It’s unclear which watch was the first dive watch to be powered by a solar unit, but it’s likely to come from one of the Japanese giants like Seiko, Citizen, or Orient. 

Should You Buy A Solar Dive Watch?

The big question you might be asking at the end of this list is whether you need a solar dive watch or not. Before we even dive into the list, you should first ask whether or not you even want a dive watch. Dive watches are typically bulkier and larger than others, so if you only have a 5.8-inch wrist, these may not be the best option. 

If you are a person that does regular diving, this might be the perfect watch for you, even more so for those that work on ships or boats. You might not always be moving enough to wind a rotor, and your sudden movements might damage the mainspring. A solar-powered dive watch would be perfect, seeing as it can gain power from the sun, which is always available, it’s robust enough to survive the environment, and fantastic water resistance. 

That said, there are also a lot of premier watch collectors that own some of these pieces as a ‘beater’. These are watches you wear when you know you might be in a rough-and-tumble environment and you don’t want to scratch that Rainbow Daytona you just bought. 

10 Best Solar Dive Watches

1. Seiko Prospex SNE575

Seiko Prospex SNE575

Seiko is one of the most well-known brands on the planet, especially when it comes to cost-effective dive watches. The Prospex range occupies part of the market for individuals looking for something slightly more robust and upmarket than the Seiko 5. Presented here is the ref. SNE575, a 38.5mm steel diver with a no-nonsense approach to utility. 

Designed to actually be used by divers, emphasized by the “PADI” writing at the 6 o’clock position because the watch is part of the ‘The Professional Association of Diving Instructors’, and the PADI writing on the watch is exclusive to Seiko. With a lug-to-lug of 46.5mm, the watch wears very true to the 38.5mm diameter, and thanks to the 10.6mm diameter, the watch has a very subtle wearing experience despite the utility. 

The dial features an engraving reminiscent of the longitude and latitude lines of the globe featuring large hour markers filled with luminescence. A solid 200m water resistance rating with a unidirectional bezel is accentuated by the solar caliber V147 which has an accuracy of ±15 seconds per month. 

2. Citizen Promaster Diver Blue Dial (ref. BN0168-06L)

Citizen Promaster Diver Blue Dial (ref. BN0168-06L)

While the first ‘Pepsi-colored’ dial was created with the GMT Master ref. 1675 from Rolex, many other brands have also utilized the combination of the two contrasting colors. One of those brands is Citizen, like with this ref. BN0168-06L Promaster Diver. 

The Promaster line is the robust and utilitarian line from Citizen, as presented with this 44m steel diver matched with a blue polyurethane strap. The bezel colors continue on the dial, as the blue dial is matched with a large red minute hand and equally large hour markers. If this watch could scream, it’d be screaming utility and legibility. 

A date aperture without a cyclops is located at the 4 o’clock position to double down on the practicality of the timepiece. All the functions are powered by the caliber E168, an Eco-drive movement that is Citizen’s solar-powered unit. The watch is also ISO-compliant, with a water resistance measurement of 200m. 

3. Casio MTPS110-1AV

Casio MTPS110-1AV

Casio is perhaps the single most loved brand from the kid down the street rocking his G-Shock to the collector whose daily is a Paul Newman Daytona. Both will own Casios and love them for their utility and honesty. 

This ref. MTPS110-1AV down-to-earth tool watch comes in two variations, one in blue and one in black. The dial is matched with a yellow or red minute and seconds hand, respectively, and at the 3 o’clock position, you’ll find a day-date function. 

The diameter is slightly larger compared to some of the others, measuring 46.9mm. A solid 100m water resistance matched with a mineral crystal and the utility of a solar power unit makes this the perfect ‘beater’ watch, or perhaps a watch you just wear when out and about working on your yacht. 

4. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph (ref. WBP1112.FT6199)

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph (ref. WBP1112.FT6199)

TAG Heuer is known for making some of the better watches for their price point. The first Aquaracer was presented in 2003 and has since become a mainstay in their lineup, ranging from quartz movements to automatic versions. The ref. WBP1112.FT6199, or the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph, is a solar-powered version and sports a rather stealthy appearance. 

A 40mm DLC-coated sandblasted black case is matched with a black bezel that features an insert made from carbon fused with luminous material, which massively increases legibility. The whole dial is highly legible thanks to copious amounts of lume on the hour markers and hands. 

The Solargraph caliber TH50-00 powers the watch and is based on the Citizen E168, displaying the time and the date at the 3 o’clock position on a sunray-finished black dial. 

5. Tissot T-Touch Connect Solar (ref. T121.420.47.051.00)

Tissot T-Touch Connect Solar (ref. T121.420.47.051.00)

Tissot presents some of the best value-for-money timepieces on the Swiss market, like this T-Touch Connect Solar ref. T121.420.47.051.00. Walking a thin line between a smartwatch and a regular watch might upset a few individuals, but it does seem to walk the line rather well. 

A digital display is located on the lower half of the dial, but you still have the normal three-hand display, so, the best of both worlds. The black display is still highly legible thanks to the not-so-subtle use of red on the seconds hand and the tip of the minute hand. 

A ceramic bezel elevates both the resistance to scratches but also features the four main compass directions, which matches the utility of the ‘smart part’ of the T-Touch, which according to Tissot, includes but is not limited to an altimeter, compass, perpetual calendar, alarm, time, time zones, automatic daylight saving time, timer, chrono split, chrono lap, chrono log book, and a step counter. 

The watch measures a whopping 47.50mm in diameter, so it certainly is not for everyone, but when considering the utility of the piece, it’s to be expected. 

6. Lum-Tec Solar Marine 2

Lum-Tec Solar Marine 2

If you’re looking for a more subtle approach to the dive watch category, perhaps the Lum-Tec Solar Marine is the option for you. The watch is limited to merely 500 pieces worldwide, so it’s unlikely you’ll ever see someone else wearing one. 

Measuring at a dainty 39mm with a bead-blasted finish to improve durability. The main feature your eyes will be attracted to is the white steel insert on the bezel fixed with lume for added legibility.

The watch’s overall look is also subtle thanks to the titanium carbide gunmetal PVD hard coating on the case, creating a faded look that doesn’t draw as much attention to itself as other, more colorful divers. 

The 300m of water resistance is matched with the 6 months power reserve thanks to the solar-powered caliber VS42A, which is manufactured by Seiko. 

7. Vaer D4 Solar Diver 38mm

Vaer D4 Solar Diver 38mm

What about a more compact diver? The Vaer D4 features a subtle 38mm polished case matched with a brushed-finished three-link bracelet or a brown NATO strap. With a lug-to-lug measurement of only 45mm, the watch sits quite comfortably on the wrist despite the 200m of water resistance. 

The watch exudes plenty of maritime subtexts with a deep blue dial with golden lined hands and golden text at the 6 o’clock position. In fact, each highly luminous hour marker is also lined with golden effects. An anodized aluminum bezel insert featuring 120-click technology surrounds the dial in a similar blue hue.

The movement within is the Epson VS22 solar movement with an accuracy rating of -30 / +30 sec per month. The bracelet is rather special at the price point of $359 – $449. It features four micro-adjustments, solid end links, and an 18mm taper.

8. Momentum Torpedo Pro Eclipse Solar 

Momentum Torpedo Pro Eclipse Solar 

With a name like Torpedo, you already know what type of watch you’re about to deal with. A 44mm steel diver with 200m of water resistance thanks to a screw-down crown. The crown is located at the 4 o’clock position to avoid the “wrist-bite” we so often experience with regular crowns. 

Behind the sapphire crystal is a black dial with contrasting circular sections, the inner section being slightly transparent and the outer being glossy. Subtle pops of color are courteous of the red seconds hand and the pointer for the date aperture at 4 o’clock. The black rotating bezel features ample impressions to allow it to be easily used even when wearing gloves. 

9. Seiko Prospex Tuna “Arnie” SNJ025

Seiko Prospex Tuna “Arnie” SNJ025

Seiko is back again with something for the meathead in your life – the Seiko ref. SNJ025, nicknamed the ‘Arnie’, is a contemporary model of the famous ref. H558 worn by Arnold Schwarzenegger in the film The Predator

The aesthetics didn’t change much, and if Arnie could rock it, then you can imagine the watch being quite large. A case diameter of 47.8mm makes it a unit on the wrist and that excludes the several crowns. 

There are crowns to manage both the digital and analog display, as well as the several complications within; the power reserve display function, local time indication mode, stopwatch function, and an alarm. 

The watch is (surprise) also ISO-compliant, perhaps making it the dive watch to end all other divers. Powered by the caliber H851 with an accuracy rating of -15 / +15 sec per month. To improve the robust nature of the timepiece, a rubber outer bezel is placed around the dive bezel creating the signature look of the “Arnie”. 

10. Citizen Promaster Aqualand (ref. BN2036-14E)

Citizen Promaster Aqualand (ref. BN2036-14E)

Citizen is another giant in the dive watch world with legendary models like the Promaster range, as presented here with the Aqualand ref. BN2036-14E. With a water resistance rating of 200m, the watch has been awarded the ISO6425 diving certification.

The 46.1mm case is matched with a black polyurethane strap for increased sportiness and utility. The dial not only the regular hours, minutes, and seconds but also a power reserve display, depth meter, and maximum depth memory display. The movement in charge of timekeeping duties is the caliber J250, an Eco-Drive movement with a potential power reserve of 330 days. That’s a lot of diving… 

Conclusion

Dive watches are meant to help you in one of the most stressful times you can put yourself in. With the addition of a solar-powered movement, you get all the reliability and accuracy of a quartz watch with none of the battery-dying drawbacks.

A match made in heaven to be found at the depths of the ocean. Or at your desk in the office because the watch looks cool and you like the technological aspect of it – we won’t judge – as long as it makes you happy. 

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