Category: Watch Reviews

Everyone loves a good “best” list, and I originally intended to include my top 10 watches here, but then after mulling it over in my head, I realized that 10 just didn’t cut it. In the dynamic age of social media and fashion forward trends, I think that offering a greater variety—from the perspective of price, style, and purpose—will best meet the demands of our esteemed readers. After all, there are so many good watches out there, so if we left one of your favorites off of this list, don’t take offense! 

History of Men’s Watches

As many may know, the first watches were essentially miniature versions of clocks, so they were still too large to be worn on the wrist. In the 16th century, these “miniature clocks” were known as pocket watches, and while they were small enough to be carried, they were typically attached onto chains and worn in pockets (hence the name) or pinned onto clothing.

The prominence of wrist worn watches didn’t begin until the early 20th century. In 1904, Cartier designed a watch for Alberto Santos-Dumont, an aviator with a “functional” need for accessible timekeeping while flying. And then the start of The Great War (World War I) required a more practical timekeeping solution for combat. Soldiers began strapping watches to their wrists, using makeshift leather straps or fabric brands to secure their pocket watches onto their wrists.

The rest is history—literally!

Top 15 Best Watches for Men

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight (ref. M79030N-0001) 

Ah–Tudor. The little sister of Rolex has sure as heck been making a lot of noise these days. Established in Geneva in 1926, Tudor has a rich history of watchmaking. But it wasn’t really until 2013 that Tudor started hitting its contemporary stride, triumphantly returning to the U.S. market with the Heritage Black Bay—a vintage inspired dive watch with an iconic burgundy bezel. The watch was well-received, but as smaller watches became trendy, some complained that the original Black Bay was a bit too large. 

Tudor listened, releasing the Black Bay Fifty-Eight at Baselworld in 2018. With a screw-down crown, a rotatable bezel, and robust construction, this is a purpose-built dive watch. This timepiece offers a Goldilocks sizing of 39mm with a lug-to-lug of 47.8mm and a case thickness of 11.9mm. Juuuust Riiight. It also features an in-house caliber (MT5402) with COSC accuracy and 70 hours of power reserve. With an MSRP of $4,175, Tudor has set the bar high with the Black Bay 58.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronograph (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002) 

Omega watches have adorned the wrists of astronauts, secret agents, celebrities, professional athletes, and even yours truly. They are one of the most globally recognizable brands, with a rich history of horological innovation and superb craftsmanship. When people think of Omega, they usually think of the Speedmaster Moonwatch. 

The Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronograph is the “souped-up” version of Omega’s legendary offering, featuring OMEGA’s extraordinary Co-Axial Calibre 3861, which has METAS certification and an exhibition caseback showing off pristine finishing. This version of the watch also has a domed sapphire crystal for extra durability. With a 42mm case diameter, this is a very wearable watch; moreover, with an MSRP of $8,000, I truly believe that you’d be hard pressed to find a better value in terms of history, craftsmanship, and brand recognition.

Rolex Submariner (ref. 124060) 

You’ve seen it before: a green backdrop, the iconic crown, the gold embossed lettering. Rolex is arguably the most recognizable brand in the world. It’s certainly the most recognizable watch brand. Amongst its legendary offerings, one watch stands head and shoulders above the rest: the Submariner. First released in 1954, the watch has evolved through the decades, maintaining its vintage inspired design language while adopting new case and movement technologies. 

The latest iteration, reference 124060, has a 41mm case diameter, a sapphire crystal, 300m of water resistance, and a Superlative Chronometer accurate movement with 70 hours of power reserve. It has all the trimmings expected of a modern luxury dive watch: a ceramic rotating bezel, long-lasting lume, and a robust bracelet with micro adjustment clasp for precise fitting. You could own the watch Sean Connery famously wore as Bond, all for a very reasonable $9,200.

Grand Seiko SLGA009 

Grand Seiko, from a horological standpoint, is the pride of Japan. And yet, for decades, people have scrunched their nose at the prospect of spending “Swiss watch money” for a fancy Seiko. Fools—all of them. To see a Grand Seiko in person is to witness the perfect amalgamation of art, design, and engineering. In recent years, Grand Seiko has pushed hard to gain ground in the United States, and they are doing so with great success. 

Arguably, they have entered a new era with the release of their Evolution 9 styling, The bold hands and distinctive, grooved markers offer exceptional readability, while the case’s Zaratsu-polished mirror finish—free from distortion—and the subtle alternating hairline finish create a soft, harmonious radiance. With its wide lugs and low center of gravity, the case rests comfortably and securely on the wrist. The SLGA009, or “White Birch,” is my favorite offering in the Evolution 9 series. 

The dial is absolutely gorgeous, with long vertical grooves that resemble the bark of a white birch tree. And yes—you are getting the 9RA2 Spring Drive Caliber with 5 days of power reserve and +/- 10 seconds per month of accuracy (yes, you read that correctly). With a 40mm diameter and a lug-to-lug of under 48mm, this watch fits all wrists and all occasions. At $9,300, this is quite a value proposition, too! 

Patek Philippe Nautilus (ref. 5811/1G) 

Founded in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has established itself as a leader in high horology, pioneering many complications and design elements that are now widely adopted across the watch industry. Included in its numerous horological achievements are the creation of the first annual calendar watch and the introduction of wristwatches featuring perpetual calendars and split-seconds chronographs. Patek Philippe enjoys popularity across its collections, but their Nautilus sports models are some of their most recognizable pieces. 

The Nautilus (ref. 5811/1G) is my favorite Patek—let’s call it a grail of mine. It features a case and bracelet in white gold as well as a blue sunburst dial with a black gradation to the periphery. At 41mm, though with a lugless design, the watch wears more like a 38 or 39mm. At a mind-boggling 8.9mm thin, it will fit under any cuff. The party continues on the back, of course, with a movement worthy of a jeweler’s loupe. A date at 3 o’clock keeps the dial uncluttered. An MSRP of $72,230 is certainly a big ask, but this is no mere timepiece; it’s a Patek Phillippe.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatic 42mm Black Dial (ref. 5010 12B30 B52B) 

Many believe that Rolex was the first commercial dive watch to market, but Blancpain released their Fifty Fathoms a full year before the crown did. Blancpain released the Fifty Fathoms in 1953, and it quickly became one of the first modern dive watches, setting the standard for timekeeping in underwater conditions. Its design, including a rotating bezel and high water resistance, made it a key tool for both military divers and professional explorers. 

The 5010 12B30 B52B Fifty Fathoms features a 42mm titanium case and high quality canvas strap. There is a date complication at the 4:30 and a beautiful exhibition caseback, showcasing the self-winding Calibre 1315, known for its impressive 120-hour power reserve. If you are looking for a high-end dive watch that is lightweight and purpose-built, you simply can’t go wrong with the Fifty Fathoms. Its MSRP is $18,400.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (ref. 15510ST.OO.1320ST.06) 

Audemars Piguet has been crafting watches since 1875, when founders Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet registered the brand in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. Today, the company is headquartered in Le Brassus and remains one of the few watchmaking firms still privately owned, with the Audemars family at the helm. I have to admit, if I were to close my eyes and envision a luxury sports watch, it would be the Royal Oak every time. 

Designed by Gérald Genta and released in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was the first true luxury sports watch. At 41mm, the stainless steel Royal Oak with blue dial is the pinnacle of stainless steel sports watches. The integrated bracelet has an almost ethereal quality to it, and color matching date wheel compliments the overall symmetry of the timepiece. With an MSRP of $24,900, the AP Royal Oak is a sound investment that can be enjoyed for centuries to come! 

Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Silver (ref. 1-90-02-42-32-64) 

This legendary Maison’s name comes from a small town in Saxony called Glashütte, where German watchmaking was born hundreds of years ago. This town has a legacy of producing some of the finest timepieces in the world, each bearing the mark of German excellence and craftsmanship. 

With a rich history spanning over a hundred years, Glashütte Original became part of Swatch Group—the world’s largest watch group—in 2000, affording the brand unprecedented global reach. With availability in over 40 countries, Glashütte Original is a true “in-house” watchmaker, creating nearly 100% of the components that go into their watches. The Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Silver is a watch that screams Germany—in the best possible way! It has two subdials, one for the actual watch, and the other as a small seconds, overlapping each other.

It has a silver galvanized dial, which is so pretty to look at, a big date complication, and a gorgeous moonphase at 2 o’clock. The watch is just as nice to look at through the sapphire crystal caseback, showcasing a hand-finished movement with all the bells and whistles. At 40mm, this stainless steel watch can be dressed up or down. With an MSRP of $11,200, I don’t think you can find a timepiece that packs quite as much of a punch as the PanoMaticLunar Silver! 

Hublot Spirit of Big Bang King Gold (ref. 642.OX.0180.RX) 

The Hublot Big Bang collection is deeply rooted in the brand’s history. Drawing inspiration from the inaugural Hublot timepiece of 1980, it seamlessly incorporates iconic design elements such as the round bezel reminiscent of a porthole, visible screws, and integrated straps. Officially unveiled at Basel in 2005, Hublot’s Big Bang watches have become a mainstay within the luxury watch industry. 

The Spirit of Big Bang King Gold is the perfect fusion between tradition and innovation—in an entirely skeletonized design. The 42mm watch is constructed from 18K “King” gold, featuring 100m of water resistance, 50 hours of power reserve, and a super comfortable rubber strap. This timepiece offers chronograph functionality and eye-catching looks. If you want something that is both loud and elegant at the same time, the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang King Gold can be yours for $44,900.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green 

I have always loved the idea of stainless steel sports watches, made famous by Gerald Genta. My favorite color is green, so I guess having the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green on this list was a no brainer. Founded by Heinrich Moser in 1828, the company was relaunched in 2005 to great critical acclaim. 

When I first laid eyes on this watch, I realized that this was not just a homage. This was something entirely new. It looked almost “alien-like” in person—as if some advanced civilization had crafted it with laser beams. The bracelet articulates wonderfully. You catch your breath when looking at the sunburst green dial. 

At 40mm in diameter, this watch is as wearable as it gets, especially when considering it has an integrated bracelet. The in-house movement is finished to the highest of standards, offering superb accuracy and 72 hours of power reserve. With an MSRP of $24,000, this is one of the best value propositions in all of high-horology.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Steel (ref. PFC931-1020001-400182)

Parmigiani Fleurier is a Swiss watchmaking brand that was founded in 1996 by master watchmaker Michel Parmigiani. Known for its dedication to craftsmanship and understated luxury, the brand combines traditional horological artistry with modern innovation. The first time I held a Parmigiani Tonda in my hand, I was blown away by the finishing and quality. 

Pictures truly don’t do these watches justice. Powered by Calibre PF070, a COSC-certified chronograph movement with a 65-hour power reserve, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Steel is a true work or artistry, with a hand-guilloché dial with a Clou Triangulaire pattern, a coin-edged bezel, and a movement showcasing anglage and hand beveled bridges, showcasing true horology. 

An integrated bracelet design makes the 42mm stainless steel case very comfortable on the wrist. Beyond chronograph functionality, the watch also has a date at the 4:30 and 100m of water resistance. The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Steel has an MSRP of $30,000.

Breguet Marine Tourbillon (ref. 5577PT/Y2/9WV) 

As one of the oldest surviving watchmakers, founded in 1775, Breguet’s popularity can be attributed to heritage, quality, and brand resources. Having been acquired by Swatch Group in 1999, Breguet’s position as the flagship brand within the Swatch Group affords the brand the financial resources and creative freedom to continue to innovate. Imagine a watch that blends so many distinct styles and horological innovation into one sleek package? 

Imagine the Breguet Marine Tourbillon. Integrated sports watch—check. Purpose-built marine watch with 100m of water resistance—check. Roman numeral indices for a dressier appearance—check. Tourbillon, an ode to Abraham-Louis Breguet along with “Breguet” style hands—check. At 42.5mm, with only 9.5mm of thickness—yes, you read that correctly—this is a very approachable timepiece, regardless of your wrist size. With an MSRP of $185,800, the Breguet Marine Tourbillon isn’t just a watch, it’s an heirloom artifact that can be handed down for generations to come.

Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition

Founded in 1904, the nascency of Oris parallels the fledgling aviation industry of the time period.  By 1911, Oris developed their first pocket watch for pilots, and by 1917 they developed their first wrist-worn pilot’s watch. Their Big Crown watches—so that the watch could be wound with gloves that pilots wore—often had pointer dates, and are still offered today, with vintage styling for the contemporary consumer. It wasn’t until 2014, however, that Oris decided to create an amalgamation of vintage and modern, which ultimately gave birth to the Oris Big Crown ProPilot line of watches.

Being well received, Oris continued to innovate and invest in its own identity with the release of the Big Crown ProPilot X, which first debuted in 2019. The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition was first released in 2021. It has a “lime” green dial with Kermit the Frog appearing on the first day of every month. While it might be loud for some collectors, the Oris Pro Pilot X Kermit Edition is actually a watch with a splash of color that can be worn with casual or formal attire. 

The watch is constructed in lightweight and durable titanium, and has a very wearable 39mm size. The in-house caliber Oris 400 is also featured through the exhibition caseback, and offers a 5-day power reserve and an unheard of 10 year warranty! All of this is available for $4,900.

Longines L3.802.1.53.6 Spirit Zulu Time Anthracite Dial on Bracelet (ref. L3.802.1.53.6) 

The Spirit Zulu Time 39mm, from Longines, is the impetus for Longines’ resurgence within the watch community. Not only is this watch absolutely gorgeous—I dream about the green bezel version—but it is also built to a high standard of finishing. Offered in a variety of materials and sizes, the L3.802.1.53.6 Spirit Zulu Time is made from titanium and is 13.5mm thick, with a 46.8mm lug-to-lug. This is as wearable as a watch can be, folks, offering superb legibility and the ability to easily slip under a cuff. 

What’s more, unlike most of its competition, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm is a true GMT, allowing the hour hand to be independently adjusted. The movement within also parallels the excellence of the case. It offers a COSC certified ETA movement, exclusive to the brand, with 72 hours of power reserve. If you are looking for one of the best bargains in the industry, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm retails at $4,275. I love this watch so much that I just couldn’t keep it off this list! 

Seiko Prospex Alpinist SPB121 

Some watches are so iconic that you can close your eyes and picture them vividly in your head. I feel this way about the Seiko Prospex Alpinist. The Seiko Alpinist story dates back to the 1960s, when Seiko released a rugged watch for Japanese mountaineers. The 2006 version was more closely related to the SPB121, with the iconic green dial and rotating inner compass. And Seiko’s latest iteration, the SPB121 is the perfect amalgamation of form and function. 

This is a unique and timeless watch, and I’ve always felt that it has the ability to be worn for outdoor activities as well as dressed up for formal wear. A 39.5mm case with a 46mm lug to lug makes for a very wearable watch, and the heart of the watch is powered by Seiko’s in-house 6R35, good for 70 hours of power reserve. Did I mention that it has a sapphire crystal, screw down crown, and 200m of water resistance? 

Okay—I know what you are thinking. So how much for all of this? With an MSRP of $725, the SRB121 is a testament that you can still buy a quality timepiece for under $1000.

Conclusion

And just like that, you have 15 of the best watches for men, curated by Exquisite Timepieces for your enjoyment. At the end of the day, the best watch is the one that scratches your horological itch, and from a price point that makes sense for you. 

Here at Exquisite Timepieces, you can feel free to contact us to help you find your next timepiece. Or feel free to explore our curated collection online or experience the exclusive range available at our boutique in Naples, Florida.

In the great wide world of watchmaking, Switzerland is considered the country that takes the crown – and rightly so. They are well-known for their high levels of craftsmanship, luxury designs, and for setting standards in accuracy thanks to institutions like COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute). However, across the ocean lies another powerhouse in the world of horology: Japan. 

Slowly but surely, this country has gained a reputation for producing watches that match Switzerland in their cutting-edge technology and beautiful design while maintaining a remarkable level of affordability. 

Japanese watch brands like Seiko, Citizen, Casio, and Orient have become some of just a few household names to come out of the nation, carving out a unique niche that caters to both everyday wear and high-end collectors. 

Whether it’s Grand Seiko’s pioneering Spring Drive movement, Citizen’s eco-friendly Eco-Drive technology, or Casio’s rugged G-Shock series for outdoor adventurers, Japanese brands are proving that exceptional quality and functionality are available from somewhere other than the watchmaking capital of the world. Have I piqued the interest of your wrists? Keep reading to discover the 15 best Japanese watch brands…

About Japanese Watches 

Although it feels like Japanese watchmaking is still a fairly youthful entry into the horology world, it actually has a more storied history than you might think. It all started in 1913 when Seiko, a brand that still leads the way in Japanese watchmaking to this day, introduced the country’s first-ever wristwatch. The model was named the Laurel. 

At this point in time, pocket watches were still the most popular form of timekeeping while on the move. In fact, there was a real shortage of wristwatches in Japan altogether, with the rare few examples being imported from other countries. 

Then arrived Kintaro Hattori, the founder of Seiko. He was driven by a desire to always be ‘one step ahead’ and embarked on the task of creating Japan’s first-ever wristwatch. That was how the Laurel was born, a perfectly round watch – copying the shape of a pocket watch – with a crisp white dial and beautiful navy and red numerals. 

It really wasn’t until the 1960s, however, marked by the famous “Quartz Revolution”, that Japanese watchmakers truly began to make waves in the market. Brands left, right, and center introduced high-precision and amazingly affordable quartz watches. 

The first was the Seiko Astron, the world’s first quartz wristwatch. Brands like Citizen and Casio shortly followed suit, leveraging quartz technology to create accurate, low-cost timepieces. They certainly gave Switzerland a run for their money, as many mechanical watchmakers began to lose profit and, in some cases, closed completely. 

Today, Japanese watchmaking continues to thrive, and with a steady balance of both quartz and mechanical watches being offered on all sides of the world, the industry continues to prove that sometimes, a bit of healthy competition can drive innovation and elevate standards.

15 Best Japanese Watchmakers

As you’ve probably guessed from the title of this blog, Japan is home to many watch brands. It’s clear watch collectors have their favorites – including myself – but they’re all different, offering their own flair and level of expertise to the world of horology. Below, we introduce some of the most renowned and influential Japanese watchmakers that we believe have truly shaped the industry for the better.

Grand Seiko

We’re starting off well because Grand Seiko might just be my favorite Japanese watchmaker of all time. Founded in 1960 as the luxury arm of Seiko (more on that powerhouse shortly), Grand Seiko quickly established a reputation for exceptional craftsmanship and precision. The company was created to produce the world’s “perfect” watch, one that had unparalleled levels of accuracy and a design that was both beautiful and functional. 

I can confidently say that Grand Seiko has achieved its mission. Models like the Grand Seiko Spring Drive are an example of their eye-opening technical prowess. It’s a watch that combines the best of mechanical and quartz technologies, using the mainspring of a mechanical movement with the regulation of a quartz crystal. 

The combination achieves almost near-perfect timekeeping. Their dedication to dial craftsmanship is also worth a mention, with Grand Seiko’s dials being known as some of the most intricate and beautiful in the watchmaking world. I urge you to look at their collections more closely to see what I mean.

Seiko

Almost like the baby brother of Grand Seiko, and yet a company that has a longer history, Seiko was founded in 1881 by Kintaro Hattori. As we mentioned earlier, Seiko was the inventor of Japan’s first ever wristwatch as well as the world’s first quartz wristwatch, so already, we know they’re coming from a place of ingenious innovation. 

The Seiko Astron, the first quartz wristwatch, remains a popular model in the Japanese watchmaker’s portfolio but now features solar-powered GPS technology so you can adjust your watch to whatever time zone you’re in with a simple click of a button. 

Another one of Seiko’s popular collections is its Prospex line. Those looking for rugged, high-performance, and affordable dive watches really ought to check this collection out. 

These are super durable watches with legible Lumibrite dials, adventurous water-resistant cases, and in-house automatic winding movements. I will always love the Seiko Prospex ‘Save the Ocean’ collection, which helps raise proceeds for charities working to protect our oceans. 

Casio

Possibly one of the best-known Japanese watch brands out there, Casio was founded in 1946 by Kazuo Kashio. He began by engineering calculators before eventually venturing into watchmaking in 1974. Since then, Casio has become something of an icon in the watch industry, predominantly launching highly robust and affordable digital watches. 

For me, the Casio G-Shock line is the company’s most significant contribution to horology. Launched in 1983, the G-Shock watch was born from Casio engineer Kikuo Ibe’s mission to create “a watch that never breaks”. 

Ever since, G-Shock has become synonymous with durability and shock resistance, attracting the adventurous wrists of outdoor explorers, athletes, and military personnel. They often feature digital displays with backlighting and robust water-resistant cases. 

Citizen

Another well-known Japanese watchmaker is Citizen. Founded in 1918, this brand is best known for the introduction of its Eco-Drive technology in 1976. In fact, it seems the rest of their history gets overshadowed because of how revolutionary this technology is. But it is a game-changer. 

Eco-Drive watches from Citizen are powered entirely by light, including the sun and artificial sources like your bedside table lamp. The battery is rechargeable, which means you never have to take your Citizen watch to your local jewelers for a replacement. 

The Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster series is a favorite for its durability and advanced diving features. It’s a watch I often recommend to those new to watch collecting and looking for something affordable and perfect for an action-worthy everyday timepiece. 

Another Citizen watch I have to mention, purely because I’m a proud owner of one, is the Tsuyosa. This is a standout collection offering automatic winding movements and strikingly colorful dials at insanely affordable prices.

Orient

Another Japanese watch brand I like is Orient. Founded in 1950, this watchmaker is another to prove that quality and craftsmanship can be accessible to everyone. They are best known for their dedication to mechanical watchmaking, consistently delivering stylish and reliable automatic and manual winding watches. 

For me, the Orient Bambino is a beauty. I was lucky enough to have recently reviewed one of the same, and I was pleasantly surprised by the high levels of craftsmanship found in a watch priced under $200. 

The Orient Bambino makes my wish list with vintage-inspired designs, super slim cases, and reliable movements. I should also mention the Orient AR00 Semi Skeleton, another beautiful dress watch with a unique small seconds overlapping a round skeletonized aperture revealing the movement below. A design like this isn’t a common sight in a watch brand working in this price range.

Lorus

If you prefer your watches with more of a modern, minimalistic look, then Lorus might be worth your time. It’s not a Japanese watch brand known by many, but they’ve been making waves in the horology world since its founding in 1982. 

As part of the Seiko family, you can feel confident knowing these watches are not only stylish but reliable and budget-friendly, using a mix of quartz and solar-powered in-house movements to fuel their dials. 

If it were me, I would head first to the Lorus Sport collection. Here, you’ll find a range of masculine sports watches with aggressive case styles, full metal bracelets, and chronograph movements. Alternatively, the Lorus Classic line opts for sleek lines and clean dials for those wanting something with a bit more elegance to it. Lorus is another perfect example of how you don’t need to spend a fortune to enjoy a high-quality piece.

Credor 

Credor is something of a hidden gem in the world of luxury watches. This is another one of Seiko’s children, but it focuses largely on high-end watch materials and movements. These watches represent some of the highest levels of artistry and engineering in Japanese watchmaking (alongside Grand Seiko), with every hand-finished dial and complex mechanical movement proving a commitment to excellence. 

One of Credor’s best-known collections is the Credor Eichi. It is celebrated for its minimalistic aesthetics, exceptional movement accuracy, and use of premium materials, including platinum and 18-carat gold. Another model worth mentioning is the Credor Spring Drive, which features the Japanese brand’s famous Spring Drive movement, which merges both mechanical and quartz technology for insane levels of accuracy.

Kuoe Kyoto

Compared to those mentioned previously, Kuoe Kyoto is a young Japanese watchmaker, having only left the womb in 2000. And yet, despite being a new contender to the luxury watch world, they’ve already distinguished themselves worldwide for their commitment to blending traditional Japanese craftsmanship with the needs of a modern audience. 

To put it into perspective, most of Kuoe Kyoto’s watches use Japanese stainless steel and enamel work that has been handmade in Japan. One of my personal favorite collections is the Kyoto Collection, which features delicate dial patterns that evoke traditional Japanese motifs.

Hajime Asaoka

It’s not often I come across a watch brand I’ve never heard of, but when it came to researching this article, the name Hajime Asaoka kept cropping up. And so, of course, I had to learn more. Established in 2005, it seems this watch brand – although not widely known – has mastered the art of handcrafted timepieces. 

Each model is thoughtfully designed by master watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, who has a clear appreciation for the balance of aesthetics and mechanical engineering. He cleverly combines traditional techniques with modern design to launch models like the Tsunami and Tourbillon Pura.

Kurono Tokyo

Another watch brand I’m not overly familiar with, although I have heard their name mentioned before, is Kurono Tokyo. After looking into the brand a little more deeply, I feel that their philosophy revolves around extremely well-made watches with top-notch construction and attention to detail but at an accessible price. Their collections are exactly that: accessible but exceptionally constructed, offering masterful complications and, in some cases, rare Urushi dials.

Minase

A Japanese watchmaker with a penchant for modern aesthetics blended with Japanese precision is Minase. Founded in 2005 in the heart of Japan’s watchmaking district, the company has become best known for its bold geometric stylings and titanium cases, which are lightweight and incredibly durable. 

Models like the Horizon and Windows are two of my favorites since they boast unique rectangular cases with captivating dial construction that’s both sleek and mesmerizing. The Uruga is another popular reference with a sporty five-row link bracelet and unusual claw-like tongs on the bezel.

Mirco

It’s not easy to make timepieces stand out in today’s market since there are so many watch brands. But somehow, Mirco managed to do it, creating a range of watches that can only be Mirco. By placing their logo untraditionally at the 6 o’clock spot and leaving the 12 o’clock area completely bare, it’s not difficult to spot one of their designs in a crowd. 

It’s still a new brand, having been founded in 2015, but they’ve already created some standout models, including the Type-02, which is undeniably retro, and the Type-03, a colorful diver’s watch.

Naoya Hida & Co.

A Japanese watch brand that has really surprised me, opting for the traditional fonts, colors, and stylings of Swiss-made timepieces, is Naoya Hida & Co. It makes perfect sense, though; since their founding in 2013, they have dedicated their history to traditional techniques, combining them with intricate dials and finely crafted cases. 

The NH Type 5A is an absolutely beautiful timepiece, marking the brand’s first dress watch with a rectangular case. It’s compactly sized with three-dimensional sapphire crystal and beautiful concave dolphin hands. It’s a must-have for those with a love of Japanese-made dress watches.

Future Funk

I love a watch brand that does things differently, and Japanese watchmaker Future Funk says it all in the name. They boast an exciting range of retro-inspired timepieces that bring the groovy vibes of the 1970s into the modern day. The unusual dial layouts and disco-esque cases capture the essence of the era’s bold fashion and funky beats. 

They are most definitely designed for those of us who love both nostalgia and unconventional watch design. The Future Funk Roller takes the number one spot for me, inspired by the space-age design of 1970s digital clocks with numbers that rotate vertically.

Kikuchi Nakagawa

Last but certainly not least, we have Kikuchi Nakagawa, a fairly unknown microbrand founded by duo Kikuchi and Nakagawa. The pair wanted to bring together the beauty of traditional Japanese aesthetics with the precision of Swiss watchmaking, and in doing so, they created a selection of timeless dress watches. 

These watches cater to connoisseurs who appreciate the finer things in life and those of you who value quality, artistry, and a touch of understated luxury. 

As it stands, Kikuchi Nakagawa only has two collections in their portfolio: Murakumo and Ichimonji. Both are fairly simple in their execution but surprise with handcrafted dials and cases and Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier movements (a movement maker known for supplying some of the world’s most prestigious watchmakers).

Conclusion

It’s clear there’s no shortage of incredible Japanese watch brands to choose from. Whether you’re after a durable diver’s watch, a shockproof digital timepiece for hiking, a classy dress watch, or something wholly unique and different, Japan has got you covered. 

With such a variety of designs and innovations, you’re bound to find the perfect watch to suit your style and needs. While Switzerland may officially be home to some of the biggest watchmakers in the world, I think Japanese watch brands give them a good run for their money.

The world of watches can be a confusing place. There’s a whole bunch of terminology that can be puzzling even to the most experienced watch collector, let alone those of us completely new to timepieces. From tourbillons to tachymeters, perpetual calendars to power reserves and bezels to balance bridges, know that it’s okay to feel overwhelmed by all these different terms. 

I guarantee all of us, at some point in our watch collecting journey, have had to Google what these words mean. And I’d bet my money that one of the most frequently asked questions is: “what is a chronometer?”

Think of a chronometer watch as an overachiever, the clever one in school. It’s a watch that has passed a super strict set of accuracy tests, typically by an official body known as COSC in Switzerland (although there are other bodies we’ll get to shortly). 

The watch has basically been to a boot camp to ensure it is super precise; the movement is tested in different positions and temperatures to ensure it keeps near-perfect time. People choose chronometer watches when they want undeniable reliability, whether that’s an essential lifestyle requirement or just a cool thing to boast about with their friends.

History of Chronometers

Like most inventions, the chronometer was created out of need. During the 18th century, a serious issue faced by sailors traveling out at sea was their inability to accurately determine their longitude, making navigation tricky and often dangerous. 

Enter John Harrison, a British clockmaker who, in 1735, created the first marine chronometer. His invention was a game changer, allowing sea-dwellers to navigate the ocean with incredible levels of accuracy. It was kind of like giving sailors a GPS long before satellites were even a thing. 

Over the years, chronometers got smaller and more precise, eventually moving from ship decks to wrists. Chronometer watches became popular during the early 20th century as the demand for accurate timekeeping skyrocketed. It was here when organizations like COSC were founded, created with the aim of certifying chronometer watches under a strict set of standards. Now, only the most precise timepieces earn the title “chronometer”.

Now, with GPS systems aboard, we don’t need chronometers to set sail, but the precision of a chronometer wristwatch is still necessary and impressive. They have become symbols of reliability and craftsmanship, with typically only the finest watchmakers in the world able to create chronometer-certified watches.

Chronometer Certification Standards

There are various chronometer certifications, each with its own testing method. So, if you’re looking for a chronometer watch for yourself, it’s good to know which certification your watch has passed. Even some watch brands, known for crafting their own in-house movements, have developed their own chronometer certifications to show their dedication to precision and craftsmanship. Let’s look at some of the best-known chronometer certifications and what is involved in each…

COSC Chronometer

The Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, abbreviated to COSC, is the most common standard of chronometer certification. The Swiss establishment was the first institution to certify watches as chronometers, demanding the best in accuracy and craftsmanship. Following its founding in 1973, it still demands a very specific set of specifications from a watch to earn its prestigious certification. Those that do pass receive a coveted COSC certificate. 

Watches that are assessed under COSC undergo a series of tests over 15 days. These assess a movement’s precision under different conditions, including temperature variations (8°C, 23°C, and 38°C) and positional changes (like crown up, down, and horizontal). The watch must maintain a daily rate within a tight range of -4 to +6 seconds to pass.

METAS Chronometer

METAS Chronometer certification is another respected standard, but one set by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS) in collaboration with Omega. It goes beyond traditional chronometer testing to ensure even higher levels of precision and durability. To achieve this certification, a watch must pass COSC certification before undergoing additional tests conducted by METAS.

These tests include exposure to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss, different temperatures, and even different water pressure levels to verify its robustness. Additionally, the watch’s accuracy is assessed in six different positions and at two different power levels—fully wound and with a 33% reserve. METAS-certified chronometers guarantee a daily precision of 0 to +5 seconds.

Superlative Chronometer

Superlative Chronometer certification is exclusively awarded by Rolex to its own timepieces. Like METAS, it goes beyond the standard of COSC chronometer testing, ensuring that every movement meets Rolex’s own stringent standard. Again, every movement must first pass COSC certification before then being handled by Rolex’s professional watchmakers, who take the fully assembled watch – not just movement – in-house for further testing.

These tests include placing the watch in multiple positions and in varying conditions such as freezing, hot and magnetic environments. They also test for waterproofness, power reserve, and automatic winding proficiency. To receive Superlative Chronometer certification, the watch must maintain a daily rate of -2 to +2 seconds, making Rolex Superlative Chronometers some of the most accurate in the world.

Grand Seiko Special Standard

As its name suggests, the Grand Seiko Special Standard is a certification exclusive to Japanese watchmaker Grand Seiko. Hoping to prove Japanese watchmaking can be just as precise and reliable as Swiss, the brand has created their own certification even stricter than COSC. 

To receive the Grand Seiko Special Standard certification, a movement must undergo rigorous testing for 17 days across six different positions and at three temperature settings. The movements are also tested in both horizontal and vertical orientations. The daily deviation allowed is between -3 to +5 seconds, exceeding the standards set by COSC.

German Chronometer Standard

The German Chronometer Standard is a certification similar to Switzerland’s COSC but one that is dedicated to testing the accuracy of German-made watches like those from Glashutte Original. The standard is found under certification DIN 8319, with specifications equivalent to those of the ISO 3159. 

It values a series of tests over 15 days, with the movement tested in five positions and at two different temperatures. Like COSC, it must also maintain a daily rate of accuracy within -4 to +6 seconds. However, unlike its Swiss counterpart, the German Chronometer Standard involves testing the fully cased watch, not just the movement.

Patek Philippe Seal

Patek Philippe also has its own chronometer certification unique to them. In 2009, they established a seal that represents the rigorous standards of their movement manufacture, once again going above and beyond the standards set out by COSC. 

To earn the Patek Philippe Seal, a watch must maintain a daily accuracy of -3 to +2 seconds in several positions and at different temperatures. Additionally, the watch’s durability, finishing, and overall craftsmanship are examined, so you’re guaranteed some of the finest levels of watchmaking in the world.

Qualité Fleurier Standard

The Qualité Fleurier Standard, also sometimes known as the FQF Quality seal, is a certification process for mechanical watches made entirely in Switzerland. This means every part of the watch must be 100% Swiss-made. 

Then, the movement must pass the tests of the COSC, followed by the FQF’s additional tests, including accuracy checks in different positions and temperatures, ensuring it maintains a daily deviation of -0 to +5 seconds.

Chronometers vs Chronographs

Chronometer and chronograph are two watch terms that are often confused with each other – understandably so since both begin with “chrono”. But in fact, chronometers and chronographs are totally different. 

As we now know, a chronometer is all about precision; it’s a watch that has been officially certified to keep time super accurate, passing rigorous tests. A chronograph, however, is a watch built with a stopwatch function, allowing you to measure elapsed time with separate sub-dials.

Fun fact: you can have a chronometer chronograph, a watch awarded chronometer certification equipped with a handy stopwatch complication.

Popular Chronometer Watches on Exquisite Timepieces

If you’re into precision timepieces, chronometers are where it’s at. At Exquisite Timepieces, we have a number of exceptional chronometer watches for you to enjoy. Here are some of the most popular, as rated by our customers:

Omega Constellation Globemaster Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mm (ref. 130.33.39.21.03.001)

Known as one of Omega’s Master Chronometer watches, a family of timepieces certified by METAS, this Omega Constellation Globemaster Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mm promises incredible levels of accuracy and reliability. The movement, with its co-axial escapement, is highly anti-magnetic and promises a healthy power reserve of 60 hours. 

It’s also a beautiful watch externally, featuring a 39mm stainless steel case with a scratch-proof fluted bezel and 100 meter water resistance. The dial is the star of the show for me, though, colored in blue with an unusual star-shaped dome finish set with Super-LumiNova infilled hands and indexes.

Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC Silver Dial (ref.  FC-303S3NH26B) 

Possibly one of the most affordable manufacturers of chronometer watches, Frederique Constant has truly reached their goal of making luxury watchmaking accessible to everyone. For less than $2,500, they offer a COSC-certified full-metal sports watch with their Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC Silver Dial model, powered by the Caliber FC-303 with a 38-hour power reserve. 

It, too, has a 39mm stainless steel case, but one with a sporty, integrated architecture that flows into the brushed and polished H-link bracelet. The dial is crisp white and uniquely embossed with a globe motif across the center.

Grand Seiko SLGH021

Grand Seiko has a number of impressive in-house movements worth mentioning, but their Caliber 9SA5, found inside the Grand Seiko SLGH021 Limited Edition, is one of their Grand Seiko Special Standard movements. With a daily rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day, a power reserve of 80 hours, and a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, it becomes one of the most impressive chronometer movements on the market. 

The watch is also absolutely breathtaking, featuring an intricately detailed, mosaic-like mint green dial inspired by the colors of the Genbi Valley landscape and a 40mm wide Ever-Brilliant steel case polished using the brand’s famous Zaratsu technique.

Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer (ref. 1-58-01-02-05-30)

Offering a more traditional aesthetic, one that harks back to some of the world’s first chronometers, the Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer watch is powered by the in-house Caliber 58-01, a manual winding movement with a 44-hour power reserve and chronometer certification. 

The movement is housed within a luxurious 18ct rose gold case, measuring to 42mm wide and just 12.6mm tall, strapped to the wrist by a dark brown alligator leather strap. The dial is silver-grainé and decorated with blued hands, a black railroad chapter ring, an oversized date window and timeless Roman numerals.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante (ref. PFC905-1020001-100182)

Finally, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante is an exceptional chronometer watch with an opulent integrated case and bracelet, guilloche dial, and GMT complication. The soft lines of the case are engineered from stainless steel, while the bezel, with its detailed knurled finish, is machined from 950 platinum. 

It sits on the wrist at 40mm wide and 10.7mm thick, secured by a three-row link bracelet with brushed and polished finishing. The blue grain d’Orge hand-guilloché dial presents two skeletonised hands for the hours and minutes and a rose gold hand for the GMT, all powered by the chronometer certified Caliber PF051.

Conclusion

We hope you now have a solid understanding of what a chronometer watch is and why these timepieces are so highly coveted. If precision and accuracy aren’t high on your list of priorities, a chronometer might be a little wasted on you. 

However, if you value precision and reliability, especially if you have a job or lifestyle that requires high levels of timekeeping accuracy, then a chronometer watch would be a worthy investment. Or maybe you’re just like me, and you simply appreciate the intricate technology that goes on inside these watches. If so, a chronometer watch will no doubt enhance your daily life too.

Chronographs are among the most iconic watches in history and are perennially popular among enthusiasts, from newcomers to seasoned collectors. They are multifunctional timepieces that blend form and function, combining varying case shapes, sizes, buttons (“pushers”), and colors with intricate movements that provide accurate current time as well as the precise timing of events ranging from Formula 1 racing to boiling the fettuccine.

“Chronograph” is derived from the Greek language and means “time recording”. Chronographs indicate both the current time and the elapsed time of an event from start to finish, but they are much more than a mere “stopwatch”. 

As we shall see, certain types of chronographs also record split times (e.g., a single lap of a multi-lap race) and calculate the speed of a moving object, the wearer’s distance from an event that is seen and heard (e.g., a lightning strike and thunder), pulse rate, and even a pilot’s fuel consumption.

In this article, I will cover chronograph history, how they work, practical uses, types, and the differences between chronographs and chronometers, and discuss five popular models.

The Birth of the Chronograph

There are several key figures and events that figure prominently in the birth and growth of chronographs.

Most watch historians—as well as the Guiness Book of World Records—credit French watchmaker Louis Moinet with the “World’s First Chronograph” in 1816. Its design was similar to a modern handheld stopwatch with start-stop-reset functions and was used for astronomical purposes. Moinet achieved an amazing accuracy of 1/60^th per second and 30Hz or 216,000 beats per hour.

In 1821, Nicolas Mattheiu Rieussec was the first to use the term “chronograph” to describe his “Chronograph with Seconds Indicator”, which he designed for the more practical and commercial use of timing horse races. 

The device was housed inside a wooden box and allowed for separate times to be recorded when the user triggered a hand to leave an ink impression on paper, thus becoming the first literal “timer writer”.

Longines launched the first chronograph wristwatch in 1913. It featured a monopusher embedded within the crown and was accurate to 1/5^th of a second. Breitling followed in 1915 with the first chronograph with a separate pusher for start-stop-reset situated at 2 o’clock and again in 1934 with the first dual pusher chronograph.

The year 1969 marked not only the “Race to the Moon” but also the “Great Automatic Chronograph Race”, which featured competitors Seiko, Zenith, and a team of collaborating Swiss firms consisting of Breitling, Buren-Hamilton, and Dubois-Dépraz vying for the distinction of the first self-winding chronograph movement. Zenith announced their success in January and named the movement “El Primero” or “The First”.  The Heuer, et. al consortium and Seiko announced later but still beat Zenith to market to the general public.

Chronographs have continued to evolve with new designs, more accurate movements, and increased functionality and remain a popular and practical watch choice to this day.

How Chronograph Watches Actually Work

Chronographs encompass a broad range of designs, types, and functions, but there are a few elements that are common to almost all models.

Mechanical chronographs use either a cam or column wheel design to achieve their multifunctional capabilities. Either type of movement allows for the pushers (these days, usually dual ones placed at 2 and 4 o’clock) to perform start-stop-reset functions. 

A typical analog chronograph will have a centrally placed timing seconds hand that starts when pressing the top (2 o’clock) pusher. The timing hand stops when the user presses the top pusher again. To reset, the user presses the bottom (4 o’clock) pusher.

Chronograph dials contain registers, also known as “subdials”, that display information such as running seconds, elapsed hours, minutes, or fractions of seconds. There may be additional indices and markings that allow measurement of distance (“telemetry”) or physiological data such as pulse rate (“pulsometry”). 

Bezels are also an important component of chronographs, and the most common display is a tachymeter that measures the speed over a known distance, either in miles per hour (mph) or kilometers (kph). Other bezel options include pulsometry and even ones with slide rule functions.

It is important to note that while many popular and historically important chronographs are largely mechanical and analog, highly accurate quartz movements with digital-only displays or analog-digital hybrids, as well as the ubiquitous “smart watches”, are popular and affordable options as well.

Practical Chronograph Uses

Chronographs are used in a wide range of timing tasks associated with various sporting events, such as track and auto racing, as well as military, aviation, diving, and medical applications. Even more mundane timing needs, such as how long to cook an item in the kitchen or calculating the morning commute length, make chronographs useful for almost everyone.

Unique Types of Chronographs

There are “sub-specialty” types of chronographs that can “fine tune” timing capabilities. Two important ones are split seconds and flyback chronographs.

Split Seconds Chronograph

Split seconds chronographs time a series of successive events such as laps in a track or auto race. Another name is rattrapante which is French for “catch up”. A split seconds chronograph is equipped with two timing seconds hands that overlap at the 12 o’clock position before timing starts. 

When the user engages the top pusher to start timing an event, both timing seconds hands start to run together. Pressing the bottom pusher stops the rattrapante hand, which is usually on the bottom, to record the split time while the other timing seconds hand continues to run and show total elapsed time. 

When the bottom pusher is pressed again, the split timing seconds hand “catches up” to the other one and continues with it unless the bottom pusher is pressed again to record another split

Some split seconds timing chronographs only contain a single timing seconds hand. For instance, a MoonSwatch has a bottom pusher that can be engaged after the start to record a split time. 

The elapsed time continues to run unseen. When the bottom pusher is pressed again, the timing seconds hand jumps forward to show the total elapsed time again—a “rattrapante lite”, if you will.

Flyback Chronograph

A flyback chronograph allows the user to stop the timing seconds hand, reset to zero with a counterclockwise movement, and immediately start timing again with a single press of a pusher. This is in contrast to a standard chronograph, which requires separate pushes to stop the timing seconds hand, reset it to zero, and restart it.  

Flyback chronographs were designed initially for pilots who needed accurate and rapidly timed multiple intervals for complex maneuvers and other various flight tasks. The movement of the hands appears simple, but the mechanisms are very complex testaments to the art and craft of watchmaking. Flyback chronographs are popular among collectors who are fascinated by and appreciate their close ties with aviation and military history.

Chronograph Watches vs. Chronometer Watches

Even though chronographs and chronometers are often confused, the distinctions between the two are relatively straightforward. Chronographs are multifunctional tool watches that combine traditional timekeeping with a stopwatch function. A chronometer, on the other hand, is primarily concerned with precise timekeeping and designed to be accurate within a small seconds per day interval.

Chronometers gain certification by undergoing rigorous testing in various positions and temperatures by certifying bodies such as the Official Swiss Chronometer Institute (COSC), whose standard is +6/-4 seconds/day. The Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), following COSC certification, awards its “Master Chronometer” designation for watches that achieve a +5/-0 seconds per day standard. Some brands have their own in-house testing and certification, such as Rolex’s +2/-2 seconds per day “Superlative Chronometer” distinction.

There can be an overlap between the two: a chronograph, if it meets the appropriate accuracy standards, can also be designated a chronometer.

Top 5 Chronograph Watches on Exquisite Timepieces

Here are 5 popular chronographs available on the Exquisite Timepieces website:

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronograph (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002)

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronograph is famous for its NASA certification and recognition as “The First Watch Worn on the Moon” by the Apollo astronauts. This more refined modern reference features a 42mm stainless steel asymmetrical case, matching stainless steel bracelet, and a “double sapphire sandwich” crystal design that crisply displays both the highly legible black dial and subdials on the front and the intricate and beautiful manual wind Caliber 3861 movement through the caseback. 

It has a bezel tachymeter and a 50-hour power reserve, and it is a perfect example of a chronograph that is also a certified (METAS) chronometer. You may not be able to own a moon rock, but it is possible to get hands-on with an iconic chronograph and important piece of space history.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback (ref. 5200-0130-B52A)

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, originally introduced in 1953, is cited by many as the first modern diver’s watch. This chronograph reference has a 43.6mm diameter black ceramic case, a rotating ceramic bezel, a black dial with 60 seconds, 30 minutes, and 12-hour subdials, and a date window at 4:30. 

It has a sapphire display caseback, showing off the Caliber F385 movement with a 50-hour power reserve and flyback chronograph capability. Despite the presence of pushers, it still maintains an impressive 300 meters of water resistance in keeping with the brand’s storied diver tradition. It is an excellent choice for those who want a watch with a lot of stylish and imposing, yet paradoxically minimalistic, wrist presence combined with impressive timekeeping and tracking credentials.

Hublot Big Bang Unico King Gold Ceramic 42mm (ref. 441.OM.1180.RX)

This chronograph features a 42mm diameter  (“compact” by brand standards and “unisex according to some) 18K gold, satin-finished, “King Gold” case with polished edges and pushers, combined with a satin-finished ceramic bezel with polished edges, all held together with titanium screws. 

The skeletonized dial reveals the 72-hour power reserve, in-house Caliber UNICO Hub1280 autonomic column-wheel flyback chronograph movement, and the rotating date wheel. There are two subdials at 3 and 9 (60 minutes and 60 seconds) with a date window embedded within the subdial at 3. The strap is black structured lined rubber with an 18K gold deployant clasp. A guaranteed conversation starter, this “Big Bang” of a chronograph lives up to its name.

Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Tao

While the name may fly a little under the radar, Czapek is nevertheless a tradition-rich brand dating back to the arrival of Polish watchmaker François Czapek in Geneva, Switzerland, in 1832. The company’s Faubourg de Cracovie Collection Tao model is a limited-edition (18-piece) chronograph that showcases a black and white (“panda”) Grand-Feu enamel dial and is powered by the COSC-certified Caliber SXH3 movement. 

The case is stainless steel with a 41.5mm diameter and houses elongated pushers that do not protrude but instead hug and conform very closely to the case, creating a unique and pleasing chronograph silhouette. It is high-end, dressy, and rare. If you own it, you’re probably the only one in the room wearing it.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Blue dial (ref. 6907-1200)

H. Moser & Cie was founded by Swiss watchmaker Heinrich Moser in St. Petersburg, Russia, in 1828. The “Streamliner” is sleek and modern with minimalistic and fluid lines. Its 42.3mm stainless steel case has pushers at 10 and 2 and integrates seamlessly with its stainless steel bracelet. 

The dial has a transparent logo, no subdials, and is a distinctive “Funky Blue Fumé” with 4 centrally placed hands and a tachymeter scale on the inner flange. The flyback chronograph movement is the 72-hour power reserve Caliber HMC 907, and its stunning details are seen clearly through the sapphire caseback. Like the Czapek chronograph, there’s little chance of it being duplicated in your social circles.

Conclusion

Chronographs are popular cornerstone pieces of the watch world that represent some of the most pragmatic yet finest examples of high-quality watchmaking ever achieved. There are chronographs at all price points that suit everyone’s unique timekeeping needs–and everyone needs at least one. 

It’s hard to think back to a time when watches were seen predominantly as a female accessory. Especially since the luxury watch industry has become such a male-driven space. Maybe that’s got something to do with watches being one of the very few items of jewelry a man can wear. But that’s perhaps a topic for another day. 

My point is that men held onto the classic pocket watch long after Breguet introduced its first wrist-worn watch back in 1810 for the Queen of Naples. No one had ever seen a design like that before. Its oblong case framed an engine-turned silver dial, boasting complications like a moon phase, thermometer, and repeater. You can certainly see why innovations like this wouldn’t necessarily appeal to a male demographic at the time.  

Men’s watches didn’t really become a thing until the need for a reliable and legible wrist-worn watch during the First World War became apparent. Soldiers on the frontline needed a watch on a strap. Pocket watches proved very impractical for responding to the demands of warfare. In such circumstances, grabbing for a grenade with your spare hand rather than fumbling around for your pocket watch made all the difference.  

Before this, though, Cartier had released the very masculine Santos de Cartier pilot’s watch, so wristwatches weren’t completely alien. However, as is often the case, it takes time for society to conform to a change. 

The narrative that watches might not just be solely for women began to shift perceptions, and gradually, more and more designs began emerging. They weren’t just fashion accessories anymore. They were instruments that served a function. They were practical – able to hold up on the wrist under pressure. They were legible and reliable.  

Even after time spent on the battlefield, soldiers returned home wanting to wear a watch. Since that time, the market for watches has expanded exponentially. Luxury timepieces have become more refined and elegant. 

But at the same time, technologies have advanced so much that they now offer exceptional robustness, longevity, and accuracy. Today, there is a huge choice of watches to pick from. The question remains as to where to start looking if you’re new to the scene and you want to invest in one.   

If you don’t quite know what you’re looking for in a luxury watch, then the beginning is a pretty difficult place to start. Browsing watches online can be a daunting task, and trust me when I say you’re bound to fall down the odd rabbit hole or two. Before you tackle the mammoth task of searching for the perfect watch with us, there are some basics you need to know.  

In this easy-to-follow guide, I’m going to talk you through the different ways in which a watch works. We’ll look at two types of mechanical watches, automatic and manual winding, and we’ll see how these differ from the quartz watch.  

Then, we’ll look at the key watch styles and what each one offers you as a first-time buyer and wearer. We’ve got all the bases covered, so go grab a drink, kick back, and let’s begin this beginner’s guide on how to begin being a beginner (are you with me?).  

Types of Watches Based on Movements 

Part of the enjoyment of owning and wearing luxury watches is in understanding how they work. For many horology enthusiasts, admiring the complexity at play behind a transparent caseback and catching a glimpse of how each intricate component within that movement works harmoniously with another is a huge part of the experience. 

Some of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world have earned their respect by upholding time-honored watchmaking techniques that are now centuries old. Horology is a craft and an art all rolled into one. What often makes one manufacturer stand out against another is how it builds its timepieces from the inside out. The organ of the watch is the movement, and there are three key types. Let’s look at each one in a little more detail. 

Manual-Winding Watches

Manual winding movements belong under the mechanical umbrella and are the oldest of the lot. Put in simple terms, it is the winding of the crown in a mechanical watch (or the turning of a rotor in an automatic) that causes a spring to tighten inside the watch. With the help of an escapement to regulate the release of energy, that mainspring slowly starts to unwind, providing energy to the watch.  

Whereas an automatic watch takes care of the winding part, a manual-winding watch doesn’t. You’ll need to wind the crown regularly to keep your timepiece ticking over nicely. Many experienced collectors love the manual winding watch because of its tangible beauty and its visual complexity, which is often afforded through an exhibition window on the caseback.

Winding the crown tightens the mainspring, and once it is fully wound, it begins to unwind via the barrel, feeding energy to the escapement via a series of wheels and gears called the going train.  

Thanks to the use of an escapement wheel and balance fork, the mainspring is prevented from unwinding itself rapidly and losing all the energy at once. The escape wheel itself catches on a pallet that notches back and forth, connecting with an impulse pin to slowly release energy.

When you look through the back of a watch, one of the first things you will see is the balance wheel, prominently displayed through a sapphire crystal glass window as a symbol of craftsmanship. It spins continually, almost effortlessly, as the watch runs.  

Automatic Watches

With an automatic watch, a freely rotating weight rocks back and forth with the movement of your wrist. As it does so, it automatically coils the mainspring for you. The rest of the movement works in the same way as a manual-winding movement. The first thing your eyes will be drawn to when flipping an automatic watch over with an exhibition caseback is the rotor. Oftentimes, this rotor is engraved or decorated, especially by the manufacturer who makes the watch.  

Swiss watchmaker Oris, for example, implements a distinctive red rotor into all of its watches, while others may be skeletonized, crafted from 18k gold, or simply engraved with a company name.  

Quartz Watches

When the battery replaced the spring in the 1970s, it spelled disaster for so many traditional watchmakers. Some were never fortunate enough to make a comeback after the Quartz Crisis. Others survived only by changing tack and equipping some of their most popular timepieces with a quartz movement to feed consumer demand.  

Quartz has always been the cheaper and faster movement to produce. The first example was the Aston, produced by Seiko in 1969. The quartz watch works by converting electrical energy to physical energy. 

In a quartz-operated watch, an electrical current is sent to a microchip via a battery, causing a crystal to vibrate at high frequency. A microchip then picks up the vibrations created by the crystal, turning them into electric pulses that send the hands around the dial.  

Generally speaking, automatic and manual-winding watches are more expensive than quartz movements. Mechanical movements require regular services to ensure they perform seamlessly, but they last much longer than quartz watches. 

The advantage of buying a luxury timepiece from a respected manufacturer in the industry is that replacement parts and services will always be available (either directly by the official brand or via an authorized dealer). Quartz watches, on the other hand, are more affordable and make for great beginner watches, although many collectors feel they lack the complexity and craftsmanship that a mechanical watch offers.  

Spring Drive Watches

The Spring Drive Movement is a concept developed by Japanese watchmaker Seiko. It combines the advantages of both quartz and mechanical movements. Instead of the typical escapement you’d see in a mechanical watch, the Spring Drive Movement incorporates a tri-synchro regulator. 

This is a speed control mechanism that works by controlling the mainspring’s energy release, then converting the mechanical power to electrical energy, delivering it to a piece of quartz. The quartz then oscillates while the tri-synchro regulator generates a magnetic force that applies a break control, making sure optimal timekeeping is maintained. The Spring Drive movement is used in many Grand Seiko watches, including the “Omiwitari” and the “White Birch”.  

Types of Watches Based on Style 

Now that you know the difference between a mechanical and quartz watch, Let’s take a look at the different styles of watches available.  

Dive Watches 

The history of the dive watch goes back further than you think! While dive watches were enjoying their heyday back in the 1950s, the fundamental values of this style of watch were established much earlier. 

Before the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and the Zodiac Seawolf, and before models like the Submariner by Rolex and the DOXA SUB – there were waterproof cases like the Rolex Oyster in 1926 and the 1936 Omega Seamaster. Panerai had also developed its military-inspired Luminor watch for the Italian Navy (although it wouldn’t be released to the public until the 1990s). 

The core principles of these watches are still underpinned in most modern dive watches. Modern-day dive watches have lockable bezels, unidirectional dive scales, legible dials, screw-down crowns, depth gauges, and helium escape valves. There is an abundance of styles and designs to choose from today, and pretty much every esteemed manufacturer in the industry has dipped its toe into making a dive watch. 

Some of the most popular are those like the TAG Heuer Aquaracer, the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra, the DOXA SUB 200, the Panerai Submersible, and the Breitling Superocean, not forgetting, of course, the iconic and highly covetable Rolex Submariner.  

Dress Watches 

Dress watches have been around for centuries and are the most elegant of all. Even though they aren’t the kind of watch you would wear for daily affairs, outdoor pursuits, or sports, some are still robust enough for these environments. Manufacturers that excel in the realms of dress watches include Vacheron Constantin, A. Lange & Söhne, Patek Philippe, and Breguet.  

Dress watches are more formal and elegant in style than your average daily beater. They often come in cases crafted from 18ct rose gold, yellow gold, white gold, or palladium and communicate opulence through simplified dials, slim case dimensions, and classic bracelets or leather straps. 

Some manufacturers create dress watches with diamond dot hour makers or diamond decoration on the dial, while others are resolutely understated for pairing with formal or business attire.  

Field Watches 

Field watches pay homage to military timepieces used in military warfare dating back to the First World War. They are the most utilitarian of designs, featuring legible dials, robust cases, and, sometimes, material straps that give them a distinctive vintage vibe. If you like watches with a bit of old-world charm, a field watch may be a great first watch for you. 

Hamilton is a master in creating field watches. Its popular Khaki line of Field, Navy, and Aviation timepieces promises lashings of Super-LumiNova material on the dial and additional 24-hour tracks. Field watches are durable, accurate, and functional. These minimalist military watches are favored by collectors for their comfort and wearability.  

Chronograph Watches 

Chronograph watches are one of the most popular complications to own, thanks to their useful stopwatch facility for measuring elapsed time. Whether you opt for a complex timepiece that combines this function with a perpetual calendar or a split-second chronograph to measure laps around a racing track, this type of watch will add something dynamic and sportier to your collection. 

You can use the timing feature on a chronograph to boil an egg on a Sunday morning or for more crucial timings in sports training. In the early 1900s, Breitling was one of the first manufacturers to add an independent 2 o’clock pusher to a wrist-worn chronograph. 

TAG Heuer is another leader in the chronograph field. The brand’s stylish chronograph watches have become the face of the brand’s many sporting partnerships over the years. Chronograph watches also come with features like tachymeter scales and pulsometers, while flybacks can start, stop, and reset a timing with a simple button push. 

Pilot Watches  

If you thought pilot’s watches were only for aviators, you were very wrong. They do have some very useful applications in the cockpit, don’t get me wrong, but seldom are they used for flying anymore. 

A pilot’s watch is a niche style that is sought-after by devoted collectors who simply love their style. Most have a distinctive retro charm and carry elements like legible Arabic numerals, luminous hands, and a triangular pointer at 12 o’clock to help orient pilots flying fighter jets during battle. 

After Cartier developed the Santos watch for Alberto Santos-Dumont, flieger watches designed by manufacturers like IWC, Laco, and A. Lange & Söhne arrived. Today, pilot’s watches are a popular choice and are loved for their functionality and legibility. 

The Breitling Navitimer watch, for example, features the slide rule bezel that pilots once used for complex air-bounce calculations like speed and fuel consumption. Examples of manufacturers creating modern-day pilot tools include Bremont, Zenith, Longines, Breguet, Fortis, Oris, and Sinn.  

GMT Watches  

GMT watches are one of the most practical tools you can own. If you’re looking to start your luxury watch collection with a travel watch, I’d recommend a GMT watch. It displays an additional time zone in a 24-hour format that you can follow while traveling away on business or for leisure. 

The GMT hand forms an integral part of this design and is often triangular and highlighted in a contrasting color for improved legibility. The hand coincides with the 24-hour scale to provide time back at home, while the main central hour and minute hands track the current time of your destination. 

One of the most iconic GMT watches is the Rolex GMT-Master II, including the coveted Pepsi and Batman models with respective red/blue and blue/black bezels. Other popular examples include the Aquascaphe GMT by Baltic, the BR V2-93 GMT watch by Bell & Ross, and the Longines Spirit Zulu.  

Tourbillon Watches  

A tourbillon watch is one of the priciest options from the list but it’s also one of the most complex and beautiful. The first of its kind was developed by Abraham Louis-Breguet (yes, that’s the same manufacturer that developed the first wristwatch!). The complication is quite something to marvel at and is often displayed through the dial of a watch via an open-heart layout.

The invention defies the effect of gravitational pull on the intricate parts of the movement by suspending them inside a cage. The balance and escapement rotate inside that cage, making one full revolution every minute. The balletic motion of the tourbillon is a captivating feature in a watch and can be found in designs from Moser & Cie, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Audemars Piguet & Vacheron Constantin.  

Conclusion  

The selection of watch styles, movements, and dials available on the market today is as diverse as the individuals who wear them. Finding the perfect timepiece, especially if you are just starting out, is not a simple task. Collecting watches is a personal experience. 

The type of watch you choose should reflect your personality and tastes above all else, but it should also be functional and suited to your daily needs. Most of all, enjoy wearing your watch for its craftsmanship, build, and quality. 

Dive watches may not be to everyone’s taste, just like a dress watch may be too formal or a pilot watch too bold for another collector. The good thing is that Exquisite Timepieces is an authorized dealer of so many coveted brands that you can’t really go wrong when looking to start your watch-collecting journey with us.