Category: Tudor

Tudor is famously heralded as the sister brand of Rolex; following its takeover in 1936 by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf, the brand would contribute to achieving economies of scale and target a price-conscious market segment. To achieve this, Tudor would use third-party movements; but would hugely benefit from the sharing of technology, technical, aesthetic, and functional characteristics under the same roof as its hugely successful counterpart.

Fundamental to Tudors dive watch history was the introduction of the Tudor Oyster in 1947. The “Oyster” nameplate was first seen on Rolex models in 1926 to denote its water resistance. It was the first truly waterproof case, one of the most important milestones in watchmaking history, and a precursor to the purpose-built dive watch that would be released in 1953.

The first Tudor dive watch would follow the footsteps of the legendary Rolex Submariner, released in 1953, with the release of the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7922 a year later to be the more affordable Submariner. This would mark the initial era of its dive watch lineup inspired by the 6204 and 6205 Rolex Submariner, mirroring its aesthetics, most notably the dial layout of the 6205.

The second era of Tudor Submariners began in 1969, with the brand finding its own identity in aesthetics to make for an equally iconic dial layout to the “OG” Rolex Submariner, also developed for the explicit needs of diving. It would utilize square hour markers with matching hands and would be recognized by collectors as “Snowflakes”.

About the Tudor Submariner (the Predecessor to the Snowflake)

Ready to capitalize on the winning formula of the very first Rolex submariner, the first dive watch from Tudor, the Oyster Prince 7922, was released in 1954. It was intended to be a budget-focused counterpart of the exceptional Submariner released the previous year, mirroring its design aesthetics, features, and robust characteristics.

Like the Rolex Submariner, it utilized a 37mm Oyster-case with a screw-down case-back and crown to reach a guaranteed depth of 100 meters. 

It took inspiration from the 1954 Submariner 6205 reference dial layout that rewrote the book on legibility with its usage of lumed triangular, circular, and rectangular plots for hour indexes, with a lumed Mercedes hour hand, pencil-shaped minute hand, and seconds hand with a straight tip after the lollipop on a contrasting domed black dial with gilt logo/inscriptions and minute track, viewable under domed plexiglass commonly used in this era. 

To precisely measure dive times and adjust decompression stages, it came equipped with a bi-directional rotatable bezel graduated in 5-minute intervals and a lume-pip at zero. All Tudor Submariners would use reliable third-party movements to cut down on costs to the end consumer, and the 7922 would be equipped with the self-winding Calibre 390 with 18,000 beats per hour.

Common to all Tudor Submariners, it shared components with its sister brand, such as its Oyster-case, screw-down crown, and Oyster-style riveted bracelet, all signed with the Rolex logo. All iterations of the 7900 series would follow the trend of piggybacking off Rolex’s proven back catalog and would only house a Calibre 390 movement.

The 7923 in 1955 would be a brief departure from this path, as it was the only reference to feature a manually wound movement (ETA Calibre 1182). It also featured a less legible pencil hour hand instead of the Mercedes hand and two cylindrical bars replacing the curved links that attached the Oyster-style bracelet to its case.

In 1958 the 7924 appeared, following the path of the Rolex Submariner 6200 from 1955, reverting to the characteristic Submariner hands and bracelet and offering 200 meters of water resistance with the use of a larger 8mm “Big-crown”, a thicker Plexiglas, and a thicker case.

In 1959, the 7928 reference followed and would be the most diverse reference in Tudor’s lineup being in production for nearly 10 years. Major changes in this reference were the adoption of a larger case size from 37mm to 39mm and the introduction of crown guards influenced by the needs of the French Navy. 

With the usage of a smaller 6mm crown, it first had square crown guards; pointed crown guards followed in 1961, and later a refined rounded shape that would be retained for future models. The 7298 also saw many dial variations, with the shift from gilt text to silver, and finally white text, the usage of a closed to an open chapter ring, and gilt hands to silver hands.

History & Origin of the Tudor “Snowflake”

The 7928 and its adoption of a more “Professional” crown guard equipped 39mm case developed in conjunction with the needs of the French Navy was hence supplied to the French Navy and the U.S Navy for its professional use.

This signaled the direction for the next generation of Submariners from Tudor, departing from the Rolex aesthetic that defined the 7900 series. A quote by Mark Twain, ”There is no such thing as a new idea. It is impossible. We simply take a lot of old ideas and put them into a sort of mental kaleidoscope”.

This could not be truer for the impact the characteristic Rolex Submariner aesthetic has had on the 7900 series Tudors and for any dive watch that would follow its huge success and legendary status. Under the roof of the Crown, with the motive to differentiate its second generation of Submariners, did Tudor execute a new idea?

In 1969, Tudor presented a new face for its Submariner, but was it better than the iconic one it replaced?  It used square indexes reminiscent of the 70s approach to design instead of the symmetrical and attractive round indexes.

 These Submariners would be nicknamed “Snowflakes” due to the form of their indexes. With less negative space on the dial and more surface area for luminescence, it proved to be more functional and utilitarian than the rounded indexes of before. As a result, Snowflakes have been hugely praised by collectors as potentially the cooler, more professional, and less mainstream alternative to its iconic sibling.

The Tudor “Snowflake” Submariner 7016 & 7021

Developed for the explicit needs of divers, known to be specifically designed with the feedback of the Marine Nationale (to be more legible in low light conditions), the majorly changed Snowflake Submariners, the 7016 and 7021, were released in 1969. With them began the second generation of Tudor Divers.

The 7016 and 7021 were the first Submariners from Rolex or Tudor to be offered in blue (in addition to the standard black), a highlight of this and the models to follow, as even today, the Rolex Submariner range does not offer a blue dial variant for its steel models. It also finally did away with the Calibre 390 movement for ETA movements, which would prove to be easier to service.

The 7016 was equipped with a 39mm case, a 60-minute bidirectional rotatable bezel, rounded crown guards, and 200m of water resistance, unchanged to that of its predecessor. Still features Rolex signed parts, such as its case, crown, and new Oyster Style non-riveted bracelet.

Its new Snowflake dial replaced the rose logo with a shield logo (a symbol of resistance and reliability) and featured square indexes that reciprocate with rectangular indexes at 15, 30, and 45, paired with a square on the hour hand and seconds hand (nicknamed “snowflake hands”). Visible under a no longer domed but flat Plexiglass crystal. 

With the new reference followed a new caliber, the ETA 2483, with a frequency of 18,000 beats per hour, the same as the one it replaced. From the learnings of the Rolex Submariner Date 1680 arrived a date variation of the Snowflake, the 7021. It shared the exact specifications with its no-date counterpart, besides its date complication and, therefore, its ETA 2484 movement.

What is familiar is the usage of a Cyclops-type Plexiglass crystal, the same as that of its contemporary 1680, with a magnifying lens placed over the date aperture at 3 o’clock for easier reading. Seen for the first time was the usage of a roulette date disc, with black for uneven numbers and red for even numbers.

The Next Generation Tudor “Snowflake” Submariner 9401 & 9411

The 7016 and 7021 continued production untill the mid-70s, at which point they were subsequently replaced with the 9401 and 9411. These new references were offered simultaneously with a snowflake dial in black or blue (till circa 1983) or with the characteristic Submariner dial layout in either black or blue. 

The 9401 and 9411 “new generation Snowflakes”, would share the same case lines and aesthetics with its predecessors. Its most important update for the time was the change to higher performance movements, being the modified ETA 2766 for the non-date version and 2784 (2783 in some cases) for the date version. 

The new caliber would feature a hacking seconds function for precise time setting, the quickest date for date models (discontinuing the beloved roulette date wheel), 28,800 beats per hour, and a 42-hour power reserve to make for a very modern specification caliber, even today.

Another useful update would be the availability of different bracelets, one with Rolex oyster reference 7836/0 with a classic folding clasp or the 9315/0 with a “Fliplock” folding clasp and an extension link system to be used over a wet suit.

The “Blue Snowflakes” of this era are known to be the most collectible and definitive “Snowflakes” amongst collectors, as they are currently easier to source in good condition compared to their predecessors. This is due to early examples experiencing rotting or bubbling on their dials caused by a defect in the paint or water ingress. It is rumored that this was mitigated by the mid-1970s. 

The blue colorway was made more available with the modern Snowflakes. The color is favored for embracing the spirit of diving better than black, better complimenting the patina created through time on its hands, indexes, and pearl on its bezel. 

The “Black Snowflakes”, on the other hand, share a much closer resemblance to its contemporary Rolex Submariner; for that, they can be argued to be a little less interesting. These last Snowflake references also offer collectors the best of both worlds in usage, with vintage aesthetics and modern calibers underneath.

When was the Tudor “Snowflake” Discontinued

The Tudor Snowflake was discontinued in the middle of the 1980s, with the Submariner range continuing to be produced until 1999. When Tudor celebrated its 50th anniversary in 1996, it marked an end of an era as a sub-Rolex brand sharing components (cases, crowns, and bracelets) from the same parts bin.

Due to their storied heritage and unique history parallel to the most iconic divers watch ever, good examples of Snowflakes have become increasingly difficult to source. Also, since many of these examples were “budget Rolexes”, they were actually used as tools for their intended purpose and not babied like their contemporaries, many of which had seen life in a safe.

Currently, there are limited offerings online, with the blue Snowflakes having higher premiums than the black variants. Additionally, condition, age, delivery contents, maintenance history, and provenance are all points of consideration that will reflect on the end price. 

Pricing currently ranges between $9,000 to as high as $30,000 or more for a perfect example or mil-spec variant. In some cases, they can even be priceless due to the Snowflakes’ iconic history. 

At the time of writing this, I was able to find a listing online for a 9401/0 black (naked) without box and papers priced at $10,000 and a totally original blue 9411/0 with box and papers priced at $18,000. A 1680 Rolex Submariner of equal condition would be approximately double this value, so in comparison, vintage Tudors offer a lower entry point as a gateway to collecting them today.

Return of the Snowflake?

The Snowflake configuration that has been iconic to Tudors history was finally reintroduced to its collection at Baselworld 2012 with the combined launch of the Black Bay and Pelagos models.

Since then, the usage of Snowflake hands and dials in different variations of its tool watch lineup has become identifiable with Tudor in the modern day as it draws inspiration from its past while offering modern specifications with in-house movements, cementing the value it offers in the luxury tool watch segment.

Tudor Black Bay 58 Blue

The Black Bay models that have proven to be most popular in the modern chapter of Tudor, bringing back the characteristic Snowflake hands in 2012. This is paired with the aesthetics of the rounded indexes used in the 1958 7294 “Big Crown” Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, a model that inspired the “big crown” remastered Black Bay and Black Bay 58 with vintage cues like domed sapphires, and faux rivet bracelets. 

In 2019, Tudor would surprise lockdown-tired enthusiasts when they released a “blue” Black Bay 58. This would further tie the modern watch with the history of the original Snowflake as it was identical in color to the iconic “Snowflake Blue” of old, with a 39mm case sized similar to that of the vintage Snowflakes; this stands as a worthy modern successor that reminds us of the original.

Tudor Pelagos 42

In 2012, Tudor wowed us with the release of the Pelagos 42mm, a modern specification titanium, 500m water resistant, helium escape valve equipped professional dive watch that drew inspiration from vintage Snowflakes, bringing back a full Snowflake dial.

It seemed appropriate that the utilitarian-focused Pelagos 42 would bring back the legible layout created specifically for the needs of the professional diver. Its host of features includes a fully lumed stepped snowflake dial (with a date window at 3 ’o clock), snowflake hands, a fully lumed uni-directional ceramic bezel for ultimate legibility, and a 42mm titanium case with unique pointed crown guards attached to a titanium bracelet with a bracelet extension equipped clasp.

It comes offered with a black dial and bezel, a bright blue dial and bezel, or as an LHD variant with a black dial and bezel and the return of the unique roulette date wheel seen on vintage Submariner Snowflake 7021s.

Tudor Pelagos 39

After the release of the Pelagos 42 (42mm) and the consequent release of the Black Bay 58 (39mm), enthusiasts knew that it would be within Tudor’s capability to give us a 39mm (toned down) Pelagos which would share the closest resemblance in sizing and wearability to the original 39mm Snowflakes. In 2022, Tudor finally gave us the modern-day equivalent of the Snowflake that we had all been waiting for. 

A Pelagos 39 with a 200m water-resistant titanium crown guard equipped case, attached to a titanium bracelet with a t-fit clasp, sporting a cleanly executed no date sunburst black full Snowflake dial (with red Pelagos text), paired with a sunburst black ceramic full lume unidirectional dive-bezel.

While the materials used in comparison to the original Snowflakes have been modernized through the usage of titanium and ceramic instead of steel and aluminum, its elegant proportions and shared aesthetics offer a familiar experience.

Tudor Pelagos FXD

In 2021 Tudor gave us a military specification diver with the release of the Pelagos FXD. The brand would come full circle with its Marine Nationale history, with the new release drawing inspiration from the original Snowflakes through the usage of the highly legible Snowflake dial (originally created with feedback from the Marine Nationale). 

Unlike its counterparts that were simply references listed in the catalog supplied to the military, the Pelagos FXD would be specifically designed with their preferences in mind making it the most hardcore and purposeful Snowflake to date. 

It would feature a 42mm (200m water resistant) crown guard equipped titanium case with fixed lugs, a fully lumed full snowflake dial in navy blue, a matching navy blue fully graduated and fully lumed ceramic bezel (bi-directional for navigation) with deeper knurling, and would only be offered on a nato and a rubber strap. Like the vintage MN/year stamped caseback Submariners, the FXD would also see the continuation of the engraving offering a unique aspect of collectability to the modern-day collector.

Conclusion

Today, Tudor stands as an independent brand from Rolex with the freedom to draw inspiration from its past while fulfilling the requirements of delivering a modern specification tool watch; it has been celebrated for its value proposition by dive watch enthusiasts of the highest caliber.

The unique history of the original Oyster Prince Submariner Snowflakes made under the same roof as its sister brand Rolex, sharing components like cases, bracelets, winding crowns, and using more affordable movements, has made the Snowflake an icon of its own. 

To further strengthen its significance, the Snowflake Submariners had a parallel path to that of the most iconic diver watch ever, with the adaptation of the Snowflake dial that was created through military feedback, making it essentially a version 2 of the characteristic Submariner layout. 

In a parallel universe, perhaps Rolex would have loved the Snowflake layout for themselves, as it could be argued to be a more purposeful, legible, and better design. Certainly an icon.

My list will be endless if I begin to mention the number of items that lose their value immediately after they are bought. From a set of blinds to an expensive ride, these items are capable of diminishing in value faster than you think. It’s a normal phenomenon. Some pricey items just don’t hold as much value as when they were initially bought.

But is it the same for Tudor Watches?

As a watch enthusiast, my preference is set on high-end timepieces that scream luxury and can be potential investments. But the truth is that after a certain period, some of these wristwatches lose their money’s worth, or it might take an exceedingly long time for me to gain profits on my watches as an investor. 

In determining whether a watch would retain or lose its value, everything boils down to the rate of supply and demand of the particular watch model. Brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe would rarely lose their value because the very high market demand is at play. When it comes to Tudor watches, they mostly retain their value, but some models do so less than others.

About Tudor Watches

The Tudor brand is popularly known for its luxurious feel and is loved by watch enthusiasts across the world. The watches are known to feature top functionality, excellent craftsmanship, and also great quality. I would not expect anything less since Tudor was created by the best-known luxury watchmaker and father of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf.

In 1926, a Swiss watchmaker known as Veuve de Philippe Hüther came up with the name “The Tudor”. That same year, Hans Wilsdorf purchased the exclusive rights to the name, and it allowed him to develop the brand from that point. 

The first set of Tudor-signed watches was released in 1932 and was sent to the Australian market. They featured rectangular-shaped faces, and some also had the Rolex name on the dial alongside the Tudor signature. After World War II, Hans created Tudor’s manufacturing company called the “Montres TUDOR S.A.” in 1946.

Thereafter, Tudor became a sister company to Rolex and has always benefited from its relationship with Rolex. Hans decided to create a luxurious but equally affordable wristwatch for people in the military and professional divers. So, between the early 1960s to 1980s, the watchmaker sold Tudor watches to military agencies, including the French Marine Nationale and the US Navy, who began issuing Tudor watches like the Submariners to their divers. 

These timepieces include the brand’s first-ever Rolex-influenced  “Oyster collection”, which features a waterproof Oyster case. Over time, Tudor introduced other features like the “Big Crown” and “Snowflake hands” into the Submariner watch line.

Various watch enthusiasts are in awe of Tudor watches due to their quality and luxurious delivery. On top of this, the timepieces are also affordable. I mean, a Rolex can feature intricate designs and bear lots of unique characteristics, no doubt. But I know that a luxurious Rolex watch will cost me a lot of money. 

On the other hand, Tudor watches tick off the luxurious box, the quality box, and the inexpensive box also. I choose to buy a Tudor watch because I will be getting the full package and, at the same time, without breaking the bank.

If I want to purchase one, I can own a Black Bay 54 that retails around $3,850 on the market. This water-resistant and modern iteration of the Tudor Submariner boasts a quality stainless steel body, a polished satin accent, and a light feel to it, alongside many more features.

What Makes Luxury Watches Hold Their Value?

At first glance, I would think of purchasing an affluent watch that only catches my fancy. But on second thought, I cannot help but also factor in whether the timepiece can be a source of investment for me also. I mean, in the end, it will be a win-win, right?

However, when I buy wristwatches solely because I admire them, it would lessen my pain by the time I want to sell them, and I realize that they have lost their worth after using them for years. The truth is, not all watches retain their money’s worth after a long period which can be disappointing.

But some still do, and if I purchase them, I will gain either the same value or a slightly higher profit. It is a given that some watches hold their value better than others due to varying quality, prices, supply, and demand. Although no one can accurately predict the future prices of things, there are a few things to consider when buying a luxurious watch that might hold its estimated worth for years to come.

Brand Heritage

If a watch’s worth is mostly determined by how trendy it is and how it is mostly requested by consumers, then it is highly advantageous to start by purchasing fashionable and most sought-after brands. What I mean by this is buying wristwatches from brands that have consistently been preferred over time as opposed to those that are trending at the moment.

Brands like this include Rolex, which is no doubt the King of all timepieces. Rolex has existed since time immemorial and is popularly known both in and out of the watch industry, especially for its fancy timepieces. I am certain that if I approach a random person who knows nothing about watches to mention a watch brand, they will definitely mention Rolex. This shows how widely-known the brand is.

Now, the fact that Rolex has built a name for itself in the market is mainly what helps the brand to make more sales. I highly doubt that you would find a lot of Rolex models that have lost their economic worth- that’s if you would even find any. Similarly, watch brands like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet are popularly known brands that also retain most, if not all, of their original market price. 

I know for a fact that these two brands are the go-to watch investments for most people. Other older brands created over a hundred years ago, like Jaeger-LeCoultre, OMEGA, and IWC, among many others, have all built trust with customers.

Hence, I would not think twice before buying a wristwatch that was created by these brands. In essence, a brand’s heritage determines the possibility of a watch’s value retainment. So, the longer a brand has existed, the more likelihood that the worth of its timepieces will not diminish.

Iconic Watch Designs

In my opinion, a classy watch is mostly determined by how intricate and iconic its designs are. For various watch enthusiasts, unique designs, artistry, and out-of-the-world skillfulness featured on a timepiece are among the things that determine the value of such a piece.

Personally, I like spontaneity and never-before-seen wristwatches because such pieces elude more opulence. These pieces are usually rare, which makes them worth so much more. Hence, watches that are unique in their designs and very rare are known to hold their value retention well enough.

In fact, they can even increase in value as the years pass. Examples are watches that feature dial colors not normally inculcated in the watch by the watchmaker and bear designs that are only peculiar to the timepieces. A Vianney Halter Deep Space Tourbillon is a perfect example of a piece with an uncommon but beautiful design that will forever be valuable.

Material

Another thing to consider is the material from which a watch was made. A watch that is created from quality materials or worthy precious metals, like pure gold or platinum, will be valuable in the watch industry and also outside the industry.

I know for a fact that gold will always be worth a lot. So, if I buy a Yellow gold Rolex Daytona, I can rest assured that I will get my money’s worth once I sell it because of the gold material it is made of. 

Also, a timepiece made out of materials that are trending at the time it is about to be sold will be deemed valuable. The material will still be considered fashionable and will attract a lot of potential customers. Therefore, I can make a profit from selling such a timepiece.

Availability

When I hear the word limited edition, the watch that comes to mind is the Vacheron Constantin Chronometer Royal timepiece. This watch is notorious for being one of the least common, perhaps even the most-uncommon watch the world has ever known. Due to its rarity, such watches will never diminish in value.

The fact is that there are quite a few watches that are so rare that no one knows how many of them were produced. In this case, the Vacheron has only been seen once during an auction and is a highly limited edition. 

Another is the Cartier Crash watch, of which only four pieces in total have been manufactured. Its unique design, which features a look similar to a cloth worn by historic desert travelers, makes it stand out. Watches like these are definitely going to always increase in value and will never diminish.

Do Tudor Watches Hold Their Value?

Generally, Tudor watches are not known to increase in value, but they do have some value retention. This is because, in the first place, they are not very pricey. Some Tudor models have also been proven to be valuable even after purchase. 

An example is the Heritage Black Bay wristwatch line. This piece is one of Tudor’s most sought-after models, and it has been doing pretty great as regards value retention. The collection has seen various models over the years, which have all been recognized as highly valuable. 

Models under the Heritage Black Bay line, including the Black Bay 58, the standard Black Bay, and the Black Bay GMT watches, are notable pieces that have been a success when it comes to being worthy after a while. 

The demand for the Black Bay 58, which costs around $3,700, is very high. This is most likely due to its features that entail a vintage-inspired dive watch design, great proportions, and excellent specifications. As a timepiece that is highly requested, its value will at least not decrease as time passes.

It is, however, important to note that compared to other Tudor watch models, no watch has ever been worthy over time like the Pelagos. This model is also popular among watch enthusiasts due to its classy appearance, the quality of materials used in creating it, and its durability. Now, this watch ticks off more of the boxes than other Tudor models when it comes to the qualifications a watch must meet to gain the ability to retain its value.

Its attractive features speak for it and have given it easy access to being recognized as the best diver’s watch that the brand offers. Due to this, its status on the market will also increase. This gives the Pelagos an edge over other Tudor models in being eligible for potential investments. Therefore, compared to other Tudor watch models, the Tudor Pelagos has been recognized as a watch model that still holds its value after purchase.

Do Tudor Watches Appreciate In Value?

The fact that a Black Bay 58 holds value after some time does not mean that it is automatically the best form of investment.

While this may not be the case with all luxury watches, as some of them appreciate a lot in value over time, Tudor watches tend to not appreciate in value as much, compared to brands like its sister company Rolex, a brand that is known to always have value retention and also appreciates in value. 

But it does not mean that I would not be able to resell my Tudor watch. Looking at its top-notch quality, anyone would want to buy an affordable wristwatch that also bears the same high-end features that Rolex has.

Well, I know I would. In that regard, a Tudor watch can be a good investment because I will be able to sell it for a significant price.

What About Vintage Tudor Watches?

As I have previously emphasized, Tudor watches have existed for quite some time. Since its initiation, it has produced an array of different lavish timepieces, some of which are now vintage. The demand for vintage Tudor watches has increased over time which is not surprising.

This is because their value has doubled, and they have also proven to be highly durable. Some of these vintage Tudor models that are now in high demand include the oldest Chronograph models, the Tudor Submariner References, the Tiger model, the Oyster Prince series, and the Big Block, amongst many others.

Many watch collectors have aimed to grab these vintage pieces whenever they find them because they are becoming harder to find, especially in good shape. 

But I remember that these vintage timepieces were very common amongst people in the military due to their waterproof features. Its strap was also suggested and supplied by the military back when Hans Wilsdorf began to create Tudor watches.

Hence, a Tudor Submariner Marine Nationale has notably doubled in value and is one of the most purchased Tudor vintage watches. The Marine Nationale, which has the initials “M.N” at the back of its case, goes hot at $22,000.

Another expensive vintage Tudor timepiece can also be the Oyster Prince series, especially the Oysterdate. This model was among the first ever Tudor watches to be released and is quite similar to the “Datejust” watch by Rolex. When I think of a simple yet elegant timepiece, the Oysterdate comes to mind because of its classic design and historical beauty. Tudor vintage pieces are the real definition of the phrase “old but gold.”

Conclusion

It is safe to say that Tudor watches can be classified as classic, exceptional, and luxurious timepieces, and they hold their value. I would not set my mind towards gaining double the price at which I purchased it or expect a huge value appreciation over the years, but, overall, Tudor watches are great luxury-wise that hold their value.

This past year has been an exciting time in the watch market. There have been Rolex bubbles popping, MoonSwatch release flopping, and new Tudor watches dropping (highlighted with a Ric Flair woooo!)! What an exciting time to be a watch enthusiast. The Rolex market and MoonSwatch release have been covered ad nauseam, but what about Tudor?

There has certainly been no shortage of fanfare for Tudor this year. They have gone from strength to strength, releasing the new Black Bay Pro and Tudor Pelagos 39. These new models have waitlists more in line with their older brother Rolex. There is another release that Tudor managed to sneak in this year. 

That, of course, is the new Tudor Ranger.

The new Ranger didn’t receive the same universal admiration that Tudor received with their other key releases this year. In fact, I would say that this watch falls comfortably into the category of a marmite watch. 

Tudor Ranger- What It Is, Where It’s Been, and What It Is Today

When I first got into watches in 2016, the original Tudor Ranger heritage release was a close contender for my first luxury timepiece. The model featured the iconic 12-3-6-9 Ranger design, but was a little big, had a straight-end link bracelet, and didn’t feature one of Tudor’s new in-house movements. 

Ultimately, I compromised on the in-house movement and purchased a newly released Tudor Black Bay 36. Try as I might, I could never get the Ranger out of my mind. If only they tweaked it a little bit, this watch would be perfect.

Fast forward to 2020, and the Ranger quietly fell out of the Tudor catalog. My ears perked up in the excitement of what the next few releases from Tudor could bring us. The vintage watch craze was far from over, and the Rolex Explorer, especially the 36mm, had never been as popular as it was.

It took a couple of years, but in 2022 Tudor finally rereleased (or re-rereleased) the Tudor Ranger. As the rumor mill started to catch fire in the weeks before its official release, I started preparing my beloved Tudor Black Bay 36 for the inevitable auction site listing.

I knew this watch was going to take my watch-collecting journey full circle and allow me to finally get the timepiece that initially captured my attention on my wrist and out of my mind. Well, 6 months down the road, and I still have my Black Bay 36.

In fact, I never even put my name on the list at my local Tudor AD to register my interest. How could this happen? How could a watch that was supposed to be the one miss the mark so badly? Honestly, Tudor didn’t miss the mark at all! They delivered everything I was hoping for.

They even gave me some features I didn’t even know I would need back in 2016, such as the T-fit clasp. Let’s take a deep dive into the new Tudor Ranger and see if we can identify exactly why I don’t have one on my wrist while writing this review.

What Is the Tudor Ranger?

The Tudor Ranger is an everyday field watch, commonly referred to today as a GADA (Go Anywhere Do Anything) style of watch. The 12-3-6-9 dial is reminiscent of the iconic Rolex Explorer, and in many ways, this watch fills a similar place in any watch collection. 

The Tudor Ranger could quite easily be your one and only watch. Its monochromatic design allows it to be dressed up or down, and you would be hard-pressed to find a situation outside of formal black-tie events where this watch would look out of place. Since you are reading this article, I am confident you’re not very interested in one-watch collections. 

In that case, the Tudor Ranger could fill almost any hole in your watch box. That is the beauty of a timepiece like this. The only factor limiting your ability to wear this watch will be the envy of the other watches in your collection.

History of the Tudor Ranger

In many ways, the history of the Tudor Ranger mirrors that of the Rolex Explorer. Rolex introduced its iconic Rolex Explorer to commemorate Sir Edmund Hilary’s conquest of Mt. Everest in 1953. By the 1960s, Tudor released the Tudor Ranger with a similar dial layout, albeit in a 34mm case size as opposed to the 36mm of the Explorer. 

Much like the inspiration of Everest to the Explorer, the Tudor Ranger can tie its inspiration to the 1952 British North Greenland Expedition. This latest iteration of the Tudor Ranger commemorates the 70^th anniversary of this Greenland Expedition and the Tudor Prince Ref. 7909 that accompanied them. 

Whether the Tudor Ranger was conceived as a simple cost-conscious alternative to the Rolex Explorer or truly has an iconic origin story as unique as the Rolex is up for debate. One thing that is not up for debate is that the Tudor Ranger has come in significantly more variants than its iconic bigger brother since its 1960s debut. 

The initial offering was very similar to the Explorer, featuring the 12-3-6-9 printed numerals on a black dial housed in a 34mm case diameter. The Ref. 7995 from 1965 featured these characteristics along with the signature arrow shape hand to give the Ranger a unique look. A date model was later introduced to this model to further differentiate it from the Rolex Explorer.

The 1970s took this rather ordinary design and gave it a bit of that 1970s pizazz! The black dial was replaced with blues and oranges, more representative of the time, while the typical Oyster bracelet was replaced by a more contemporary integrated bracelet. 

These Ranger II models later gave inspiration to the quirky Tudor North Flag. A recently discontinued model, that introduced Tudor’s new In-House movement and featured a pop of color and integrated stainless-steel bracelet. 

Fast forward to 2014, and the Tudor Ranger was ready for a rerelease. After the success of the Tudor Black Bay and Heritage Chrono, Tudor released a new Tudor Ranger. This new iteration featured the iconic dial and hands, a 41mm stainless steel case with a straight-end bracelet, and was powered by the ETA 2824 movement. 

Despite seeing some success initially, this watch failed to see the popularity of the Black Bay line for Tudor. In 2016, Tudor released the Black Bay 36, ultimately proving to be one of the nails in the coffin for the Ranger. With this release, Tudor remedied many of the common complaints watch enthusiasts, myself included, could not look past with the Ranger. 

The size at 41mm was simply too big for a time-only watch beyond 2014. This may have been the trend in the 2000s, but we were already on our way back to more modest watch sizing by the time the Ranger hit the market. The Ranger Heritage slowly withered away until 2020, when Tudor quietly removed this watch from their lineup.

2022 Tudor Ranger Review

The new Tudor Ranger, Ref. 79950, packs a significant punch when it comes to value for money. Few watch brands can provide the value Tudor can, and they may have out “Tudored” themself with this release. Let’s take a look at how.

Case

The new Tudor Ranger featured a 39mm stainless-steel case. A welcomed downsize from the previous generation. This size reduction is enhanced when factoring in the significantly wider fixed steel bezel giving the illusion of an even smaller diameter. 

This case size was not by mistake as it pleases several wrist sizes and also allows Tudor to provide a solution for people displeased with the recent downsizing of the Rolex Explorer from 39mm to 36mm.

The case finishing on the Ranger is done impeccably well at this price point and features a mostly satin-brushed appearance. There are subtle polishing areas along the edge of the bezel, but the overall finishing is more in line with a Tudor Pelagos than that of a Black Bay. 

The watch also features a screw-down crown helping it achieve 100m of water resistance and a domed sapphire crystal to help protect it from scratches. Tudor hit it out of the park with this case, as the finishing fits the field watch aesthetic perfectly. 

Dial and Hands

The dial on the new Ranger is one of the most divisive characteristics of this watch. The printed numerals give off a very flat appearance. In person, there is an almost sterile look to the dial and handset. In addition to this flat appearance, there is quite a bit of open space on the dial. I appreciate simplicity on a dial, but I can’t help but feel that there is something missing on this one. 

I am, by no means, asking for the short story that accompanies the dial of the modern Tudor Pelagos, but I wouldn’t complain about another line of text. That being said, this dial layout and handset are signature Tudor and borderline iconic on their own now. The matte black color of the dial is everything that you would expect a tool watch to be, and overall, despite my concerns, this is a very classic dial execution from Tudor.

Movement

What about the engine powering this new Ranger? Tudor has opted to utilize the MT5402 in-house designed caliber over the off-the-shelf ETA 2824, powering their previous generation. 

This new caliber has several benefits, including a 70-hour power reserve over the standard 38 of the ETA and COSC certification, providing -2-+4 seconds of accuracy per day. This movement truly blurs the line between Rolex and Tudor and offers significant value compared to the off-the-shelf ETA/Sellita offerings in this price range.

Bracelet

The new bracelet is something that really surprised me from Tudor. The 20mm brushed Oyster style bracelet tapering down to 16mm at the clasp was expected, but the new T-fit adjustable clasp was not. The new T-Fit clasp features a toolless adjustment of up to 8mm, similar to what we see on the Glidelock from Rolex.

This feature is currently only available on the Pelagos 39 and Boutique only Black Bay 58 Bronze, both of which will set you back significantly more than this new Ranger. The other feature I am thankful for is fitted end links. Not much to say here; I think Tudor got it wrong with the 2014 Heritage Ranger and simply corrected their mistake.

Price

The new Tudor Ranger comes in three different configurations. The version featuring the stainless-steel bracelet comes in at a price of about $3150. If you opt to save some money (please don’t do this!), the watch is also available on an olive fabric strap featuring a burgundy and beige stripe or a hybrid leather and rubber strap for about $2825. Compare that to the Black Bay 36, and you are actually saving $50 based on the bracelet/ strap option you select.

You are getting a new design, with an updated bracelet and clasp compared to the Black Bay 36, as well as a significantly improved movement in the MT5402 over the T-6000, Sellita SW200-1, for $50 less! That is not a typo; the value you are getting for this watch is incredibly high, even for a company that sets the standard in this price range.

Top 3 Alternatives to the Tudor Ranger

The Tudor Ranger is a watch that provides exceptional value for money, but it’s not the only timepiece known to do this. Let’s take a quick look at 3 competitive watches and see how the Tudor Ranger compares.

Longines Spirit

The newly introduced Longines Spirit checks many of the same boxes that the Tudor Ranger does. The design is more rooted in aviation as opposed to a field watch, but the ability to be an everyday piece remains. 

The Spirit line offers more variety in the form of colors and varying sizes of 37mm, 40mm, and 42mm to help accommodate more wrist sizes and even features a date complication. Longines has recently introduced this model in titanium, giving the Spirit some additional benefits of over the stainless-steel Tudor Ranger. 

Pricing will range from roughly $2150-$3050 for the time and date models. The ETA-based movement will also provide a similar performance to what you’d expect with the Tudor. Depending on the style you are looking for, the Longines Spirit is definitely a watch you should check out before committing to anything in the entry-level luxury segment, even the value-packed Tudor Ranger.

IWC Spitfire

If you are looking for a similar look but have the budget to move up closer to $5000, the IWC Spitfire is a watch that receives constant praise for its value for money. What exactly do you get for an extra roughly $2000? The 39mm stainless steel watch features a similar satin brushed look throughout. The watch also has an in-house movement with a similar specification and accuracy rating. 

The dial appears to be an almost perfect mix between the Longines Spirit and Tudor Ranger, appealing to a more aviation-themed aesthetic with a heritage twist. The watch is only available on a fabric strap, forgoing a bracelet option altogether. The truth is, this watch provides a very similar specification, albeit with a higher brand cache and a slightly higher finishing quality, at almost double the price. 

Most watch enthusiasts consider this watch to be a great value, and its price seems almost inflated next to the Tudor Ranger. This comparison was not meant as a dig on the IWC Spitfire, as it is one of my favorite releases from any brand over the last 5 years; it is simply meant to highlight just how impressive this new Ranger is.

Omega Railmaster Co-Axial

When looking for a true competitor to the Tudor Ranger, the Omega Railmaster Co-Axial is as close as you can get. The 40mm brushed stainless-steel case and 12-3-6-9 vintage aesthetic have a familiar feel while giving us a more unique take on the classic “Explorer” dial. The Railmaster has a history that somewhat parallels the Ranger as well. 

The original release was an underappreciated model and has since seen several reintroductions to varying results. This newer 40mm iteration, while still under the radar, presents a unique option for a more subdued aqua terra. The Railmaster is powered by an in-house Co-Axial movement that has met the qualification for a Master Chronometer. 

The roughly $5200 price on a beautifully brushed stainless-steel bracelet is quite an increase from the Tudor Ranger, but this is an Omega! They’re used to giving industry rival and Tudor’s big brother, Rolex, a run for their money. If you can stretch your budget, this will be a formidable competitor to overlook.

Conclusion

So, that is the new 2022 Tudor Ranger! A watch that gave us everything we asked for, plus some things we didn’t even know we needed, yet still managed to underwhelm the watch community. More than any other brand of recent times, I find Tudor to be a victim of their own success. 

We have come to expect that every couple of years, they are going to create something that truly knocks our socks off. This new Ranger was an incredible release from Tudor, but in a year packed with the release of the Black Bay Pro and long-awaited Pelagos 39, the Ranger kind of fell through the cracks. 

The value this watch presents is second to none at this price point! You really need to look a little lower at Longines or higher with Omega to see watches that make you think twice. So why in the world is this watch not on my wrist right now while some other lucky enthusiast gets to proudly wear my Black Bay 36? 

Honestly, I can’t explain it! It defies all logic and makes me question my identity as a value-centric watch enthusiast. It has everything that I could ask for in an everyday watch, except for one thing; The memories I’ve made along the way! I am sure this watch will one day make its way into my collection, but whether or not it will replace the Black Bay 36 is unsure.

Happy watch hunting!

The watch you wear serves a higher purpose than just being an accessory that tells time. If the ability to tell the time was all we wanted from a watch, it would not matter if we grabbed a cheap one from a street shop as long as it served this purpose. A watch has personality. It defines the wearer – You. It should showcase your elegance, your evolved outlook in life, and your classy personality.

In this article, we explore two classic watches from Tudor, the black bay 58 and its predecessor, the black bay. Both are vintage watches that fit perfectly within that description. The Tudor Black bay watches are classics designed for people who appreciate elegance, functionality, and durability wrapped in a classy accessory. 

The Black Bay vs. Black Bay 58

Tudor stirred luxury watch lovers with the release of the Black Bay watch in 2012. The watch was seen as an effort to reincarnate the classic diving watch, the 7922 Tudor Submariner. However, the hype was short-lived, with new entrants competing in the same category (notably the Rolex GMT) being released around this time as well. 

The Black Bay 58 was a reprieve for Tudor, with evident improvement from its older sibling. With the heightened attention that went to this watch, it was evident that Tudor must have done something right with the 58.

For starters, the deviation from the norm of the bigger the better startled the luxury dive watches industry – but it got the buyers excited and that was all that mattered. Things were about to change. The 58 came with a compact case that was in contrast to what was expected of a luxury dive watch of its caliber.

After the Black bay 58 watch was released at Baselworld in 2018, it became an instant success. In so many ways, it was also an improvement of the 1954’s submariner. Tudor’s Black Bay watches are renowned for their durability. The submariner was identifiable by its black colorway, large crown, and gilt markings. The Black Bay 58 watch was designed for the modern man.

Sure, it may have borrowed several design elements from the submariner but when placed side by side, there is no doubt that the 58 is contemporary, well-crafted, and poised to enjoy all the webbings of modern society while wrapped around a modern man’s wrist.

The watch combines vintage functionality with style – something many watch enthusiasts resonated with. This watch was an upgrade and improvement from the original Black bay in every sense. The size, movement, quality, diversity, design, and accuracy of the 58 was enhanced to provide comfort at a reasonable price point. With this watch, you get all the trappings of a modern classic without breaking the bank.

Color variations between Black Bay and Black bay 58

One striking feature that made the 58 popular is the creation of different variants featuring different colors and case materials. The black bay 58 blue variants have been the most successful to date, followed closely by the rare black edition. The watch also comes in red, black, green, steel, bronze, black, and Chrono. Others may come in custom colors depending on the client’s tastes and preferences.

The case design between Tudor Black Bay and Black Bay 58

Not much distinguishes the 58 from the original black bay model in terms of case design- apart from the size. They have the same build, although the 58 is a bit shrunken. They both take after the older Tudor submarine’s design.

The crown guards in the submariners seem more complex than those on the 58, with more detailed bezels in their architectural design. The 58 does not have crown guards. Expect scratches if you will wear this watch occasionally. 

The compact size of the Black bay 58 seems more stylish (at 39mm diameter) compared to the Black Bay Watch (at 41mm diameter). This is a 5% reduction in size. The 2mm difference may not seem much to a layman, but it does affect the comfort and sleek look of the watch. 

In terms of flanks, there is a whopping 18.3% difference in height in Tudor black bay 58 vs Rolex submariner. Black bay 58 flanks are 6.45mm tall against the submariner’s 5.45mm. A 1mm difference can affect a watch’s design immensely. 

The case size in the Black Bay 58 is not accidental. The inspiration to reduce the case to this specific size came from some of the best watches ever made. We are talking about the Omega Speed master (1957) and the Royal Oak (1972). 

The finishing on both watches is identical. They both have stainless steel polished finishes on the sides of the case. The top of the lugs has a satin finish. The Black Bay has a date functionality at the 3 o’clock position as well as a fourth hand. 

Weight comparison between Black Bay and Black Bay 58 watches

Black Bay is considerably heavier than the 58 at 177g when adjusted to a rest wrist length of 6.5 inches. The 58 watch is at 137g when adjusted to the same length. This is about a 25% difference and it can affect how the watch lies flush to the arm. 

To place this into perspective, the famed Rolex submariner watch is at 148g while adjusted to the same rest wrist length – and this is one of the best watches ever made. Both Black Bays are comfortable on the wrist irrespective of the Black Bay being a bit heavier.

The Black Bay watch also has a noticeably larger crown than the 58 but this does not affect the watch’s comfort and functionality. The thickness of the Black Bay 58 is 12mm while the Black Bay’s thickness is 14.7mm thick. This makes the 58 lies flatter/flush on the surface of the wrist. 

Dial and Bezel for Black Bay 58 and Black Bay

The black Bay 58 has a uni-directional 60-click bezel that makes comforting crispy sounds with no back play. The Black Bay is a bi-directional 60-click bezel. Both bezels are fixed expertly in place. The Black Bay’s bezel is slightly harder to turn. You have to press on it first. The bezel inserts on both watches are made of stainless steel. 

The Black Bay comes with a 2-tone look (red and blue). The blue tone seems darker when you look at the watch in person than when looking at the picture of the Black Bay (It almost looks black in low light). The Black Bay 58’s bezel is black with gilt writing. The triangle at the zero position has a lume pip. There are minute increments from 0 to 15 on the 58, and then 5-minute increments thereafter. 

The teeth on Tudor’s bezel are not pronounced, and although they add a level of sleekness to the watch, this may prove to be a slight design flaw. Imagine trying to wind the bezel with neoprene gloves during a dive, or with cold hands. The bezel grasp is not as great as the one on a Rolex submariner, or the predecessor 1950s Tudor submariner watch but it is still very functional. 

Movement and accuracy of the Black Bay and Black Bay 58

The movements of both the black bay 58 and the older black bay watches are powered by Kenissi. The MT5402 calibration found inside the Black Bay 58 is smaller (at 26mm) compared to the one in MT5602 designs (at 31.8mm). The smaller calibration does not show balance wheels underneath. 

Both watches have 70 hours of power reserve and an accurate, COSC-certified plus or minus 2 seconds per day. The mechanical movements for both watches beat at 28,800 vibrations per hour. Most people who have owned these watches for a long time say that these watches are accurate to the hilt. 

The only slight hitch noted (especially with the early releases of the Black Bay models) was that the date wheel was not changing on time. This glitch was resolved in subsequent releases. 

The bracelet design

Both Tudor black bay watches have excellent steel bracelets. The design borrows heavily from their predecessors as well as the Rolex watches. The Black Bay lug width is 22mm while the 58 is 20mm. The 2 extra millimeters add to the bulkiness of the Black Bay watch.

These extra 2mm are part of the changes that lead to the increment of the Black Bay – and probably affect how the watch lies on your wrist. The Black Bay watch has a 50mm distance between one lug to the other while the 58 watch has a 47.5mm distance.

The clasp of the Black Bay is also longer at 19.83mm against 17.95mm of the 58. Both watches have step-tapering solid links as opposed to the gradual tapering we often see in most watch brands. The clasps are identical on both watches.

They have fracture-resistant locks on both watches with 3 micro-adjustments to fit almost any wrist size. The clasps open the same way and the guards have the Tudor logo on both watches.

Lume on Black Bay 58

Both Black bay watches have excellent luminous dials. When you place them in the dark, they have a green glow that lasts quite a while. The 58 has a darker glow compared to the Black Bay but the difference is almost negligible. When you place the two watches side by side, you will immediately notice that the green glow accentuates the size of the dials and hour markings. The 58 has larger markings than the Black Bay. 

Water resistance

Both watches have up to 200 m of water resistance capacity. There is a lume pip at the zero mark on the 58 that allows divers to tell the time in the dark. The Black Bay does not need this as it was not designed as a diver’s watch.

FAQs on Black Bay and Black Bay 58

Conclusion

Tudor Black Bay watches provide the comfort, functionality, and class many vintage watch enthusiasts have come to love. Both have a lot to bring to the table, and what you choose really depends on your preference.

If you love large watches, you would enjoy the Black Bay. It has all the trappings and elegance that come with being a Tudor. Noting that Tudor borrows heavily from Rolex in their designs, you can expect the watches to have the best quality. 

The Black Bay 58 was the highlight of the Tudor Black Bay edition. It is a compact dive watch that has won the hearts of many watch lovers all over the world. It fits snugly on your wrist and the uni-directional bezel movement makes it a great companion as daily wear for the modern, complex man. Both watches run great and have 70 hours of power reserve.

As discussed in this article, both watches have rich features that will serve any purpose you may have. It all comes down to your preference and probably the cost. Whichever one you choose, you are guaranteed to have a wholesome experience.