Category: Tudor

Tudor is one of the most versatile watch brands today, offering something for everyone. They’ve listened to collectors and created models that meet our expectations. Two of their most popular models are the Black Bay 58 and Black Bay 54. Both are best-sellers and play a huge role in Tudor’s success.

Both watches are competitively priced, with only a hundred-dollar difference between them. The Black Bay 58 was released in 2018 and has been an instant hit, remaining popular to this day. 

The Black Bay 54 debuted in 2023, quickly gaining its own following, and the two have been competing ever since. Both are highly sought after and loved by the watch community. From photos or at a quick glance, it can be tough to tell them apart, but there are enough differences to make choosing between them a challenge. 

If, like me, you find it hard to decide, comparing these two similar yet different watches can be overwhelming. Let’s break it down to help you decide.

The Tudor Black Bay 54

The Black Bay 54 is named after the year Tudor released its first dive watch in 1954. This model is a modern version of the original Tudor 7922. It keeps the same 37mm case size as the original but improves the water resistance from 100 meters to 200 meters. When you compare the BB54 to the 7922 that inspired it, the two look almost identical. This design gives the BB54 a true vintage feel without using the fake patina that many other watches rely on.

Inside, the BB54 features the MT5400 movement, which is used in other Tudor models like the BB58. This movement is COSC-certified for accuracy, running at minus 2 to plus 4 seconds per day, and it has an impressive 70-hour power reserve. This means you can leave it unworn for a weekend, and it will still keep perfect time when you pick it up again on Monday on your way to work.

The BB54 comes in only one color, black, and is available with either a steel bracelet or a black rubber strap. Both options include the T-fit adjustment clasp, which allows you to fine-tune the bracelet for maximum comfort without needing any tools. It also features a unidirectional rotatable bezel with a 60-minute timer.

The Tudor Black Bay 58

The Black Bay 58 takes its inspiration from Tudor’s 1958 dive watch. It has a slightly larger case size at 39mm, which many consider the “sweet spot” for dive watches. This model’s design includes several nods to Tudor’s history, such as the lollipop-shaped second-hand and rose gold accents on the dial and bezel, giving it a vintage feel.

The BB58 uses either the MT5400 or MT5402 movement, both offering the same COSC-certified accuracy and 70-hour power reserve as the BB54. It also features a unidirectional rotatable bezel with a 60-minute timer, a practical detail for divers or anyone who enjoys timing tasks.

What sets the BB58 apart is the variety of dial and case options. The watch is available in multiple colors, including black, blue, green, and taupe. It also comes in various case materials, such as steel, yellow gold, silver, and bronze, offering a wide range of styles to suit different tastes.

Tudor Black Bay 54 vs 58 – How to Choose

While these two watches have their differences, they share several core features that make them equally impressive. Both models offer 200 meters of water resistance, making them suitable for serious diving or serious desk divers. They are both fitted with durable sapphire crystal glass, which is highly scratch-resistant and helps with daily wear over time.

The BB54 and BB58 also share the same MT5400 movement family, providing excellent timekeeping accuracy and a 70-hour power reserve. Both watches have a lug width of 20mm, allowing for easy strap changes to personalize your look. Additionally, their case thicknesses are nearly identical, with only a 0.7mm difference, ensuring both models are slim enough to fit under a shirt cuff.

The Black Bay 58 stands out for its range of choices. It comes in multiple colors and materials, making it ideal for someone who wants options. For instance, if you love blue tones, the BB58 offers a version with a striking blue dial and bezel. In contrast, the Black Bay 54 keeps it simple with a classic black dial, which pairs effortlessly with any outfit.

Another key difference is the clasp design. The BB54 includes the T-fit clasp, which makes adjusting the bracelet incredibly easy and convenient, especially if your wrist size changes throughout the day due to heat or activity. The BB58, on the other hand, has a traditional clasp with three micro-adjustment positions. While functional, it isn’t as quick or flexible as the BB54’s clasp.

Size is another factor that sets these two models apart. The BB58’s 39mm case has a bold presence on the wrist, appealing to those who prefer a slightly larger watch. The BB54’s 37mm case is smaller and more subtle, offering a lightweight, comfortable fit that many will appreciate.

Choosing between these two watches depends on what matters most to you. I would pick the BB54. My 7-inch wrist works well with both sizes, but the T-fit clasp on the BB54 is a game-changer for me. Living in a warm climate, I often need to adjust my bracelet as my wrist swells in the heat, and the BB54 makes this quick and easy.

Conclusion

Both the Black Bay 58 and Black Bay 54 are excellent additions to any watch collection. The BB58 is perfect for someone who values variety, offering multiple colors, materials, and a slightly larger size. On the other hand, the BB54 is ideal if you prefer a simple, classic look and the convenience of an adjustable clasp.

The deciding factor might come down to how the watch fits your lifestyle and personal preferences. Ultimately, the best choice is the one that sparks joy every time you put it on your wrist. Whichever model you choose, you’re going to love it.

The Pelagos lineup has stood out as one of the most versatile dive watches on the market. Often considered the peak of Tudor’s diving watch lineup, it is far more conventional and stylish than other dive watches of similar style. 

The Pelagos 39 blends everything Tudor fans have come to love about their pieces into a virtually indestructible case that can withstand the deepest waters divers can find. It’s a chunky, bold piece that highlights Tudor’s commitment to giving their buyers exactly what they are searching for without leaving anything to be desired, as well as being unapologetically conventional for the heaviest of tasks. 

This article will explore every inch of the Pelagos 39, examining what sets it apart from other dive watches, as well as highlighting the intricacies and design choices that convey the professionalism of Tudor as a whole. 

History

The framework for the Pelagos 39 was set by its older siblings in 2012. The original Pelagos offered three versions of a 42mm titanium dive watch measuring 14.4 mm thick and 50mm lug-to-lug, with a fully matte aesthetic. 

It arrived in three colors: black, blue, or the vintage effect LHD, and was later evolved for the military-specific FXD, cementing the original Pelagos as the key representative of Tudor’s dive watches and, by extension, the entire market. 

In August 2022, Tudor announced the all-new Pelagos 39. It kept the titanium exterior of the original, but Tudor decided to significantly slim down the entire piece to be smaller and generally more wearable. The case measures 39mm, the lugs 21mm, and the thickness 11.8mm, causing the older sibling to be smaller in stature. 

Tudor made it clear that their goal with this piece was to reach a wider audience, preferably extending to male and female wear, while holding tight to the original’s roots. Tudor kept the original three on the market, making the 39 a blend of utility and style that wears far more simply. In this instance, appealing to the masses benefited Tudor because the original Pelagos was far more hefty than most preferred. 

While the 39 is no moderate piece by any means, it achieves that slimmer style that so many look for while holding fast to its dive-watch origins. As we examine the details, keep in mind that the 39 is still a dive-watch through and through, created specifically to withstand high water pressure and anything else that could cause harm. 

Case

As I mentioned before, the case measures in at 39mm, with a lug width of 21mm and a thickness of 11.8mm. It has a fairly simple titanium case design with fully brushed surfaces that go nicely with the dial. While being fairly large, the watch looks rather compact, almost like the engineers knew exactly what to fit where to optimize efficiency and give the wearer assurance of stability and durability. 

Equipped with a sapphire crystal to limit scratches and a closed case back to ensure the safety of everything inside, divers can be sure that the 200m waterproof resistance will stand true even in the toughest of climates. 

The bezel is completely satin-finished, which means it will have difficulty reflecting light. The grade 2 titanium gives it a very discreet look, but the sunburst ceramic it’s brushed with gives the appeal of a smooth, simplistic piece, and the block font mimics that of the traditional dive watches that Tudor fans are so accustomed to. 

The only feature of the bezel that can compete with the aesthetic is the satisfying click it makes when you rotate it. I find that bezels you can interact with (and are fun to interact with, for that matter) tend to awaken a childlike urge to fiddle with something that makes a cool sound, and Tudors have some of the best bezel action on the market, allowing their wearers to twist and turn until that childlike desire is satisfied. The screw-down crown also shares the same teeth as the bezel, blending in perfectly with the rest of the piece so as not to steal any attention from the major features of the aesthetic. 

All in all, the case is surprisingly thin for a watch of this caliber, something you wouldn’t necessarily expect from a dive watch. The sleek titanium allows for an aesthetical testament to accompany the practicality envisioned when designing this piece. It’s refreshing to have a watch that was designed with a utilitarian approach be so appealing to the eyes. The sheer idea that it’s a dive watch will undoubtedly deter the buyers that crave a traditional luxury piece, but for what it’s been dealt with, the 39 is a treasure in all departments. 

Dial

The dial is black and glossy, and it almost appears to be some sort of liquid, as if it’s trying to mimic the deep waters it will inevitably be thrust into. The handset is a stark contrast, being white as snow, and the blocky square markers of the same shade stand out like white pearls in the midst of a pitch-black inkwell. 

All of them glow a bright blue as well, so as you traverse the deep seas, you will never be blind. It almost appears ghostlike on your wrist, with the grey undertone of the case mixing with the harsh black of the dial. In my opinion, this kind of aesthetic is one of the most appealing color schemes you could put on a watch. I love the subtle elegance that is aware of itself and knows not to do too much. 

With four lines of text residing on the dial, the 39 shares brief similarities with the Rolex Submariner. The red “Pelagos” text that resides just below the hands gives it a much-needed pop of color that subtly contrasts the black and white. With no date window, the 39 is rounded out in perfect symmetry as the hands elegantly sweep along the surface of the pitch-black backdrop. 

One complaint that is common among those who have studied this watch is that the luminescent blue glow of the hands appears more faint than the brighter glow on the bezel. While this is a very minor criticism, I found that the legibility is not impacted at all. It simply serves as an irritating nitpick that is fairly justified considering the price of the watch. If that doesn’t bother you (and it shouldn’t, too much), then this dial is perfect.

I, for one, am a big fan of the snowflake-like hands and how they reside over the infinite darkness of the dial like a source of light that will always be just out of reach. The tone that is set is an impactful one indeed, extending across the rest of the piece and reflecting positively on Tudor’s design choices. 

Movement

Powered by a Manufacture Calibre MT5400, the Pelagos 39, simply put, is a powerhouse. It operates at a beat rate of 28,800 BPH and reserves enough power for three days of full use before charging—about seventy hours. It uses a variable inertia balance with a silicon balance spring, making the durability and magnetic resistance quite high and great for any situation. 

The MT5400 is a no-date automatic chronometer (COSC). When Tudor and Kenissi first formed their partnership, the MT5400 came to be, fueling countless classic pieces such as the Black Bay Fifty-Eight. Using the same movement, the Pelagos 39 is a perfect addition to the star-studded collection that the MT5400 powers. 

Straps

The main strap is a grade 2 titanium bracelet identical to the case. It measures 21mm across, ensuring a perfect fit. Equipped with Tudor’s proprietary T-fit clasp, much like the original Pelagos in 2012, the 39’s strap adjusts to the inevitable decrease in wrist size as your body adjusts to frigid waters. It has single screwed links and a 25mm wetsuit extension that is very similar to the original Pelagos. 

In fact, this is probably the biggest difference between the original and the 39, as there is no T-clasp on the original. Needless to say, it’s a diver’s dream to have a strap of this quality while exploring the deepest waters—borderline unnoticeable and, for the size of the watch, extremely light. 

The best feature, however, is the duality of the steel and rubber bracelet. The Pelagos 39 comes equipped with a second strap altogether, one of black rubber with a pin buckle and diving extension, which is arguably better for those deep sea expeditions. It captures a rough aesthetic that looks tough and worn, but it also manages to be soft and comfortable, optimizing comfort for swimmers and divers alike. 

On-Wrist Experience

To put it simply, this watch is very comfortable. I am not a diver. The deepest I’ll ever go in the ocean is a few feet past where it dips down. But while the watch was on my wrist, I took note of how it seemed to stay dry no matter how many times I plunged my wrist into the water. 

I could tell that it was engineered to stay in the water for long periods of time, which, from a diver’s perspective at least, deems it a perfect piece. While it’s heavier than most traditional wristwear, it felt lighter in the water and was never irritating or noticeably uncomfortable. 

For people with average wrist sizes, the 39 is a joy to wear. Being compact makes it feel lighter than it is, even with its measurements, and the titanium takes a great load off of what most would consider heavy. In fact, it works better for people with smaller wrists because everything on it fits so narrowly. Those with wrists below 6 inches will be thrilled at the comfort and flexibility of the piece, but those with 7.5-inch wrists may do better looking for something a bit bigger.

The Pelagos 39 is one of the lightest dive watches on the market, which, in my opinion, is the number one selling point. You may find watches with higher water resistance that will hold up under higher pressures (though most divers tend to stay above 660 ft), but there are few watches that offer this level of comfort while being virtually indestructible. 

The revamp of the original Pelagos was a bold choice by Tudor but one that proved to greatly benefit enthusiasts who gravitate toward lighter pieces while also craving all the benefits of an authentic dive watch. 

Pricing

A brand-new Pelagos 39 costs $4,700, and a used one ranges anywhere from $4,000 to $4,500. To put this in comparison, the standard Pelagos ranges between $3,900 and $4,700 but does not include the extra strap option of the 39. 

You can find the Tudor Pelagos 39 from Tudor-authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Tudor.

Conclusion 

I’m a new Tudor fan, and I have yet to be disappointed by any of their pieces. They offer a broad range of utilitarian and luxury watches, ensuring watch-lovers leave their stores satisfied and eager to explore their wide library of masterpieces. The Pelagos has been a treasure to research and wear, standing out to me because of its duality. 

It attempts to combine the maximum amount of utility while maintaining a flawless aesthetic that will leave both sides of the spectrum exceedingly impressed. The price is admirable, too, especially when you compare it to like-minded pieces on the market. Overall, I can’t recommend the 39 enough and if you’re someone who desires what it offers, you will not be disappointed. 

Tudor is famously heralded as the sister brand of Rolex; following its takeover in 1936 by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf, the brand would contribute to achieving economies of scale and target a price-conscious market segment. To achieve this, Tudor would use third-party movements; but would hugely benefit from the sharing of technology, technical, aesthetic, and functional characteristics under the same roof as its hugely successful counterpart.

Fundamental to Tudors dive watch history was the introduction of the Tudor Oyster in 1947. The “Oyster” nameplate was first seen on Rolex models in 1926 to denote its water resistance. It was the first truly waterproof case, one of the most important milestones in watchmaking history, and a precursor to the purpose-built dive watch that would be released in 1953.

The first Tudor dive watch would follow the footsteps of the legendary Rolex Submariner, released in 1953, with the release of the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7922 a year later to be the more affordable Submariner. This would mark the initial era of its dive watch lineup inspired by the 6204 and 6205 Rolex Submariner, mirroring its aesthetics, most notably the dial layout of the 6205.

The second era of Tudor Submariners began in 1969, with the brand finding its own identity in aesthetics to make for an equally iconic dial layout to the “OG” Rolex Submariner, also developed for the explicit needs of diving. It would utilize square hour markers with matching hands and would be recognized by collectors as “Snowflakes”.

About the Tudor Submariner (the Predecessor to the Snowflake)

Ready to capitalize on the winning formula of the very first Rolex submariner, the first dive watch from Tudor, the Oyster Prince 7922, was released in 1954. It was intended to be a budget-focused counterpart of the exceptional Submariner released the previous year, mirroring its design aesthetics, features, and robust characteristics.

Like the Rolex Submariner, it utilized a 37mm Oyster-case with a screw-down case-back and crown to reach a guaranteed depth of 100 meters. 

It took inspiration from the 1954 Submariner 6205 reference dial layout that rewrote the book on legibility with its usage of lumed triangular, circular, and rectangular plots for hour indexes, with a lumed Mercedes hour hand, pencil-shaped minute hand, and seconds hand with a straight tip after the lollipop on a contrasting domed black dial with gilt logo/inscriptions and minute track, viewable under domed plexiglass commonly used in this era. 

To precisely measure dive times and adjust decompression stages, it came equipped with a bi-directional rotatable bezel graduated in 5-minute intervals and a lume-pip at zero. All Tudor Submariners would use reliable third-party movements to cut down on costs to the end consumer, and the 7922 would be equipped with the self-winding Calibre 390 with 18,000 beats per hour.

Common to all Tudor Submariners, it shared components with its sister brand, such as its Oyster-case, screw-down crown, and Oyster-style riveted bracelet, all signed with the Rolex logo. All iterations of the 7900 series would follow the trend of piggybacking off Rolex’s proven back catalog and would only house a Calibre 390 movement.

The 7923 in 1955 would be a brief departure from this path, as it was the only reference to feature a manually wound movement (ETA Calibre 1182). It also featured a less legible pencil hour hand instead of the Mercedes hand and two cylindrical bars replacing the curved links that attached the Oyster-style bracelet to its case.

In 1958 the 7924 appeared, following the path of the Rolex Submariner 6200 from 1955, reverting to the characteristic Submariner hands and bracelet and offering 200 meters of water resistance with the use of a larger 8mm “Big-crown”, a thicker Plexiglas, and a thicker case.

In 1959, the 7928 reference followed and would be the most diverse reference in Tudor’s lineup being in production for nearly 10 years. Major changes in this reference were the adoption of a larger case size from 37mm to 39mm and the introduction of crown guards influenced by the needs of the French Navy. 

With the usage of a smaller 6mm crown, it first had square crown guards; pointed crown guards followed in 1961, and later a refined rounded shape that would be retained for future models. The 7298 also saw many dial variations, with the shift from gilt text to silver, and finally white text, the usage of a closed to an open chapter ring, and gilt hands to silver hands.

History & Origin of the Tudor “Snowflake”

The 7928 and its adoption of a more “Professional” crown guard equipped 39mm case developed in conjunction with the needs of the French Navy was hence supplied to the French Navy and the U.S Navy for its professional use.

This signaled the direction for the next generation of Submariners from Tudor, departing from the Rolex aesthetic that defined the 7900 series. A quote by Mark Twain, ”There is no such thing as a new idea. It is impossible. We simply take a lot of old ideas and put them into a sort of mental kaleidoscope”.

This could not be truer for the impact the characteristic Rolex Submariner aesthetic has had on the 7900 series Tudors and for any dive watch that would follow its huge success and legendary status. Under the roof of the Crown, with the motive to differentiate its second generation of Submariners, did Tudor execute a new idea?

In 1969, Tudor presented a new face for its Submariner, but was it better than the iconic one it replaced?  It used square indexes reminiscent of the 70s approach to design instead of the symmetrical and attractive round indexes.

 These Submariners would be nicknamed “Snowflakes” due to the form of their indexes. With less negative space on the dial and more surface area for luminescence, it proved to be more functional and utilitarian than the rounded indexes of before. As a result, Snowflakes have been hugely praised by collectors as potentially the cooler, more professional, and less mainstream alternative to its iconic sibling.

The Tudor “Snowflake” Submariner 7016 & 7021

Developed for the explicit needs of divers, known to be specifically designed with the feedback of the Marine Nationale (to be more legible in low light conditions), the majorly changed Snowflake Submariners, the 7016 and 7021, were released in 1969. With them began the second generation of Tudor Divers.

The 7016 and 7021 were the first Submariners from Rolex or Tudor to be offered in blue (in addition to the standard black), a highlight of this and the models to follow, as even today, the Rolex Submariner range does not offer a blue dial variant for its steel models. It also finally did away with the Calibre 390 movement for ETA movements, which would prove to be easier to service.

The 7016 was equipped with a 39mm case, a 60-minute bidirectional rotatable bezel, rounded crown guards, and 200m of water resistance, unchanged to that of its predecessor. Still features Rolex signed parts, such as its case, crown, and new Oyster Style non-riveted bracelet.

Its new Snowflake dial replaced the rose logo with a shield logo (a symbol of resistance and reliability) and featured square indexes that reciprocate with rectangular indexes at 15, 30, and 45, paired with a square on the hour hand and seconds hand (nicknamed “snowflake hands”). Visible under a no longer domed but flat Plexiglass crystal. 

With the new reference followed a new caliber, the ETA 2483, with a frequency of 18,000 beats per hour, the same as the one it replaced. From the learnings of the Rolex Submariner Date 1680 arrived a date variation of the Snowflake, the 7021. It shared the exact specifications with its no-date counterpart, besides its date complication and, therefore, its ETA 2484 movement.

What is familiar is the usage of a Cyclops-type Plexiglass crystal, the same as that of its contemporary 1680, with a magnifying lens placed over the date aperture at 3 o’clock for easier reading. Seen for the first time was the usage of a roulette date disc, with black for uneven numbers and red for even numbers.

The Next Generation Tudor “Snowflake” Submariner 9401 & 9411

The 7016 and 7021 continued production untill the mid-70s, at which point they were subsequently replaced with the 9401 and 9411. These new references were offered simultaneously with a snowflake dial in black or blue (till circa 1983) or with the characteristic Submariner dial layout in either black or blue. 

The 9401 and 9411 “new generation Snowflakes”, would share the same case lines and aesthetics with its predecessors. Its most important update for the time was the change to higher performance movements, being the modified ETA 2766 for the non-date version and 2784 (2783 in some cases) for the date version. 

The new caliber would feature a hacking seconds function for precise time setting, the quickest date for date models (discontinuing the beloved roulette date wheel), 28,800 beats per hour, and a 42-hour power reserve to make for a very modern specification caliber, even today.

Another useful update would be the availability of different bracelets, one with Rolex oyster reference 7836/0 with a classic folding clasp or the 9315/0 with a “Fliplock” folding clasp and an extension link system to be used over a wet suit.

The “Blue Snowflakes” of this era are known to be the most collectible and definitive “Snowflakes” amongst collectors, as they are currently easier to source in good condition compared to their predecessors. This is due to early examples experiencing rotting or bubbling on their dials caused by a defect in the paint or water ingress. It is rumored that this was mitigated by the mid-1970s. 

The blue colorway was made more available with the modern Snowflakes. The color is favored for embracing the spirit of diving better than black, better complimenting the patina created through time on its hands, indexes, and pearl on its bezel. 

The “Black Snowflakes”, on the other hand, share a much closer resemblance to its contemporary Rolex Submariner; for that, they can be argued to be a little less interesting. These last Snowflake references also offer collectors the best of both worlds in usage, with vintage aesthetics and modern calibers underneath.

When was the Tudor “Snowflake” Discontinued

The Tudor Snowflake was discontinued in the middle of the 1980s, with the Submariner range continuing to be produced until 1999. When Tudor celebrated its 50th anniversary in 1996, it marked an end of an era as a sub-Rolex brand sharing components (cases, crowns, and bracelets) from the same parts bin.

Due to their storied heritage and unique history parallel to the most iconic divers watch ever, good examples of Snowflakes have become increasingly difficult to source. Also, since many of these examples were “budget Rolexes”, they were actually used as tools for their intended purpose and not babied like their contemporaries, many of which had seen life in a safe.

Currently, there are limited offerings online, with the blue Snowflakes having higher premiums than the black variants. Additionally, condition, age, delivery contents, maintenance history, and provenance are all points of consideration that will reflect on the end price. 

Pricing currently ranges between $9,000 to as high as $30,000 or more for a perfect example or mil-spec variant. In some cases, they can even be priceless due to the Snowflakes’ iconic history. 

At the time of writing this, I was able to find a listing online for a 9401/0 black (naked) without box and papers priced at $10,000 and a totally original blue 9411/0 with box and papers priced at $18,000. A 1680 Rolex Submariner of equal condition would be approximately double this value, so in comparison, vintage Tudors offer a lower entry point as a gateway to collecting them today.

Return of the Snowflake?

The Snowflake configuration that has been iconic to Tudors history was finally reintroduced to its collection at Baselworld 2012 with the combined launch of the Black Bay and Pelagos models.

Since then, the usage of Snowflake hands and dials in different variations of its tool watch lineup has become identifiable with Tudor in the modern day as it draws inspiration from its past while offering modern specifications with in-house movements, cementing the value it offers in the luxury tool watch segment.

Tudor Black Bay 58 Blue

The Black Bay models that have proven to be most popular in the modern chapter of Tudor, bringing back the characteristic Snowflake hands in 2012. This is paired with the aesthetics of the rounded indexes used in the 1958 7294 “Big Crown” Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, a model that inspired the “big crown” remastered Black Bay and Black Bay 58 with vintage cues like domed sapphires, and faux rivet bracelets. 

In 2019, Tudor would surprise lockdown-tired enthusiasts when they released a “blue” Black Bay 58. This would further tie the modern watch with the history of the original Snowflake as it was identical in color to the iconic “Snowflake Blue” of old, with a 39mm case sized similar to that of the vintage Snowflakes; this stands as a worthy modern successor that reminds us of the original.

Tudor Pelagos 42

In 2012, Tudor wowed us with the release of the Pelagos 42mm, a modern specification titanium, 500m water resistant, helium escape valve equipped professional dive watch that drew inspiration from vintage Snowflakes, bringing back a full Snowflake dial.

It seemed appropriate that the utilitarian-focused Pelagos 42 would bring back the legible layout created specifically for the needs of the professional diver. Its host of features includes a fully lumed stepped snowflake dial (with a date window at 3 ’o clock), snowflake hands, a fully lumed uni-directional ceramic bezel for ultimate legibility, and a 42mm titanium case with unique pointed crown guards attached to a titanium bracelet with a bracelet extension equipped clasp.

It comes offered with a black dial and bezel, a bright blue dial and bezel, or as an LHD variant with a black dial and bezel and the return of the unique roulette date wheel seen on vintage Submariner Snowflake 7021s.

Tudor Pelagos 39

After the release of the Pelagos 42 (42mm) and the consequent release of the Black Bay 58 (39mm), enthusiasts knew that it would be within Tudor’s capability to give us a 39mm (toned down) Pelagos which would share the closest resemblance in sizing and wearability to the original 39mm Snowflakes. In 2022, Tudor finally gave us the modern-day equivalent of the Snowflake that we had all been waiting for. 

A Pelagos 39 with a 200m water-resistant titanium crown guard equipped case, attached to a titanium bracelet with a t-fit clasp, sporting a cleanly executed no date sunburst black full Snowflake dial (with red Pelagos text), paired with a sunburst black ceramic full lume unidirectional dive-bezel.

While the materials used in comparison to the original Snowflakes have been modernized through the usage of titanium and ceramic instead of steel and aluminum, its elegant proportions and shared aesthetics offer a familiar experience.

Tudor Pelagos FXD

In 2021 Tudor gave us a military specification diver with the release of the Pelagos FXD. The brand would come full circle with its Marine Nationale history, with the new release drawing inspiration from the original Snowflakes through the usage of the highly legible Snowflake dial (originally created with feedback from the Marine Nationale). 

Unlike its counterparts that were simply references listed in the catalog supplied to the military, the Pelagos FXD would be specifically designed with their preferences in mind making it the most hardcore and purposeful Snowflake to date. 

It would feature a 42mm (200m water resistant) crown guard equipped titanium case with fixed lugs, a fully lumed full snowflake dial in navy blue, a matching navy blue fully graduated and fully lumed ceramic bezel (bi-directional for navigation) with deeper knurling, and would only be offered on a nato and a rubber strap. Like the vintage MN/year stamped caseback Submariners, the FXD would also see the continuation of the engraving offering a unique aspect of collectability to the modern-day collector.

Conclusion

Today, Tudor stands as an independent brand from Rolex with the freedom to draw inspiration from its past while fulfilling the requirements of delivering a modern specification tool watch; it has been celebrated for its value proposition by dive watch enthusiasts of the highest caliber.

The unique history of the original Oyster Prince Submariner Snowflakes made under the same roof as its sister brand Rolex, sharing components like cases, bracelets, winding crowns, and using more affordable movements, has made the Snowflake an icon of its own. 

To further strengthen its significance, the Snowflake Submariners had a parallel path to that of the most iconic diver watch ever, with the adaptation of the Snowflake dial that was created through military feedback, making it essentially a version 2 of the characteristic Submariner layout. 

In a parallel universe, perhaps Rolex would have loved the Snowflake layout for themselves, as it could be argued to be a more purposeful, legible, and better design. Certainly an icon.