To many contemporary collectors, Seiko’s fame rides mostly on their development of reliable dive watches. Ranging from affordable and utility-focused executions to high-end masterclasses in case finishing and movement technology that is some of the best in modern watchmaking, Seiko has released a dive watch that will please almost every collector.
Within groups of Seiko enthusiasts, many models have been given affectionate nicknames, often referencing their appearance. One famous dive watch has risen to the status of cult favorite, the Seiko “Captain Willard.” The nickname does not stem from the design of the model but from its history and involvement in an iconic film, Apocalypse.
History of Seiko Dive Watches
The first Seiko dive watch was the reference 6217, most commonly referred to as the 62MAS for Model Automatic Selfdater. The 62MAS was produced from 1965 to 1968, featured 150 meters of water resistance, and had the automatic calibre 6217 inside, with 17 jewels and an 18,000 bph beat rate. The two versions were designated the 6217-8000 and 6217-8001, with the latter receiving a larger crown design.
About the Seiko 6105 “Captain Willard”
The famed “Captain Willard” reference 6105 was produced from 1968 to 1977, meaning this iconic reference was only the second production dive watch produced by Seiko. Still water resistant to 150 meters, an improvement was made to the automatic movement, including a higher 21,600 bph beat rate.
Two references were produced, the 6105A, which included a non-hacking movement, and the 6105B, which could be hacked for accurate setting. Neither model included the ability to be hand wound. Also of note is that neither of these models featured clicking, uni-directional bezels. They were only friction-fitted bi-directional bezels.
The black bezel features markings going all the way around instead of hash marks for only the last 15 minutes, as commonly seen on other divers. It was not until the second generation of the reference 7002, which was in production from 1988 to 1996, that Seiko would include a spring-loaded uni-directional bezel seen on modern divers today.
When Apocalypse Now was released in 1979, the character Captain Willard, played by Martin Sheen, was wearing a Seiko reference 6105. Eagle-eyed Seiko enthusiasts noted the watch and thus nicknamed the timepiece the “Captain Willard.”
Seiko Ref. 6105 “Captain Willard” Specifications
The case of the Seiko 6105 “Captain Willard” is very similar to the Seiko “Turtle” case we know today. The asymmetrical cushion case measures 44mm wide without the crown, and 47.5mm lug-to-lug, with a 19mm lug width. The case asymmetry is due to the design of the crown guard, protecting the locking crown from hard knocks.
While the case width seems quite large, the compact lug-to-lug keeps the watch wearable despite the tool-oriented size. This allows the watch to be large and easy to read while still easy to wear for a large variety of wrist sizes. The Seiko Hardlex crystal had anti-reflective characteristics, ensuring legibility in a variety of environments and also providing shatter resistance that sapphire does not.
The dial of the Seiko reference 6105 “Captain Willard” is black, with square and rectangular indices. The twelve o’clock marker is doubled and comes to a point at the bottom. The six and 9 o’clock markers are longer rectangles, with the remaining markers being smaller squared-shaped indices.
The hour and minute hands are rectangular in shape, with a shovel-shaped seconds hand, that mimics the 12 o’clock marker. The indices and hands are all lumed, allowing for low light reading. Additionally, there is a framed date window with a white disk and black print at three o’clock.
The reference 6105 original came with a black, textured rubber strap. Compared to many modern rubber straps, these were hard and brittle. They were pretty durable, but they often lived hard lives, making finding an original very difficult indeed.
If you are searching for a strap for the original look, many period-correct-looking straps on the market provide modern comfort and wearability. The Seiko 6105 retailed for $95 back in 1968, which is the equivalent of $828 as of June 2023.
Modern Seiko “Captain Willard” Watches
With the legacy of the reference 6105, Seiko has iterated on the iconic watch, releasing a variety of modern references that pay homage to the original while making changes to provide a broader range of options to collectors.
Seiko SPB151 & SPB153
These two references harken to the 6105 “Captain Willard” in their case shape and dial design. The SPB151 brings back the iconic black dial but now offers a factory steel bracelet. The SPB153 comes with a green dial and bezel with a black rubber strap. Both references are smaller than the 6105, measuring 42.7mm wide, 46.6mm lug-to-lug, 13.2mm thick, and 20mm lug width.
Both steel watches have a super hard surface coating and are rated to 200 meters of water resistance with a screw case-back and screw-down crown. Inside is the 6R35 movement, offering 70 hours of power reserve, with a stated accuracy of +25 to -15 seconds a day. The movement has 24 jewels, hacking seconds, and a date display.
The dials are covered by a curved sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective surface coating. The bracelet has a three-fold clasp with a lock, push button release, and dive extension. The rubber strap uses a conventional pin buckle to secure the watch to the wrist. The bezel is a unidirectional ratcheting type with similar markings to the 6105.
These two references may be the closest to the original intention of reference 6105, “Captain Willard.” While many changes have been made, they improve the durability and wearability of the watch. The SPB151 retails for $1300, and the SPB153 retails for $1100. While a bit more than the original 6105 when adjusted for inflation, the modern upgrades should make the increase in price worthwhile.
If you like the idea of the SPB151 or SPB153 but want more of the vintage aesthetic, you might have if you found an original reference 6105, “Captain Willard,” the SPB237 is worth considering.
Featuring the same case and movement as the SPB151, the SPB237 features a black bezel with faded markers and a textured grey dial with faux vintage lume that results in an overall aged look. To continue with the previous military-issued vibe of this watch, it is fitted with an olive green nylon strap.
Retailing at $1300, it is the same price as the SPB151 on a bracelet. While you may not get the value of the metal bracelet, if this is the style you’re after, the premium will be worth the extra charm.
With a price tag of $4250 and as a limited edition 2500 pieces, the SLA033 is less of a direct modern version of the reference 6105 and more of a love letter to the original “Captain Willard,” making it up in the best of what Seiko has to offer.
The stainless steel case measures 45mm wide, 49.7mm lug-to-lug, 13mm thick, and has 19mm lugs, very close to the original. Improvements are made with the 200 meters of water resistance. The case has a super hard coating but goes through the same Zaratsu polishing technique on the case and bezel as used on Grand Seiko and Credor watches.
The watch is hand-assembled in the same Shizukuishi studio as Seiko’s high-end brands, meaning the attention to detail with this reference is up there with the best companies in watches.
The black dial is covered by a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface, and there is a LumiBrite lume on the hands and indices. The bezel is also stainless steel, making it more durable and premium than the original aluminum inserts.
The 8L35 movement offers a 50-hour power reserve, 26 jewels, a hacking seconds hand, and date function, and is rated to +15/-10 seconds a day. The 8L series movements are also finished to a higher standard than the 6L movements seen in the SPB151.
The rubber strap is also similar to the original but made with modern comfort in mind. The watch is secured on the wrist with a stainless steel pin buckle.
The SLA033 is very much for those that love the style of the original reference 6105 “Captain Willard,” but demand to have the best watch possible. The SLA033 is Seiko’s take on a premium and modern “Captain Willard.”
Conclusion
With many fans of the iconic movie and Seiko building their reputation for making reliable watches, it is not surprising that the reference 6105 “Captain Willard ” has cultivated the fan base that it has over the years. Seiko’s unique designs separate them from other big brands, making them standouts in an overcrowded market of conventional dive watches.
Whether you are a fan of Apocalypse Now, in need of a trusted diver, or simply appreciate Seiko’s designs and build quality, any reference from an original 6105 to the luxurious SLA033 will likely serve any enthusiastic collector well.
Monster, Turtle, Tuna, Sumo, Samurai, Arnie…all of these are popular nicknames attributed to Seiko watches and are a testament to just how much the Japanese Giant Watchmaker has a strong cultural presence. But Shogun? That’s one we haven’t heard of recently.
Left to obscurity and sometimes the domestic market, the Seiko Shogun has been walking in the shadow of other successful dive watches from the brand’s vast portfolio since its first appearance in 2008.
We all know that the aliases proliferating online for Seiko watches all have deeper meanings, and Shogun is not without significance either. Japanese for “military ruler”, the nickname Shogun was bestowed upon the robust diver by Seiko’s fanbase to echo the imposing presence and dominating spirit of the watch.
From the history and origin of the Seiko Shogun all the way to the iconic generations that followed its release, here is an ultimate guide to one of the most ultra-robust and accessible divers of all time.
About Seiko Dive Watches
Seiko is a brand that is respected for its commitment to producing some of the best entry-level divers in the market that has charmed collectors for decades. The story of Seiko’s diver’s line of watches can be traced to the 1960s with the Tokyo Olympics.
There was a need to produce a high-performing timepiece to help the Japanese watchmaker compete with the Swiss brands hence the launch of the first dive watch from Seiko, the 6217 (62MAS), in 1965. It doubled as the first Japanese dive watch ever with a 150-meter water resistance rating.
Before this launch, Seiko had introduced a series of pre-divers, such as a few in the Seiko Sportsmatic SilverWave collection, with 50 and 30-meter water resistance. The 62MAS, however, is recognized as the brand’s signature entry into the realm of true divers.
The first version had a small crown with reference 6217-8000 and a short production span of only 90 days. An improved version (Ref. 6217-8001) with a larger crown was released the same year.
The watch featured all the necessary dive watch elements, including luminous hands and markers, a bi-directional rotating bezel, domed plexiglass, a date window, and a low-beat automatic movement ticking at 18,000bph.
It quickly gained popularity and was a good competitor in the dive watch market until 1967, when the 6215-8000 came on board. It was the brand’s first 300-meter professional model with a Hardlex crystal and a screw-down crown.
A year later, the 6105 model, a hotly sought-after iteration, followed. The 6105-8110, or Captain Willard, is famously worn by Martin Sheen in “Apocalypse Now”. It introduced the cushion case shape, which appears to be square with rounded sides and can be seen in the SRP collection today.
Research and development continued as the years went by, and many iconic divers with a cult following were released. Seiko divers hold a special place in the hearts of many watch enthusiasts and continue to offer excellent performance and durability at accessible price points.
History & Origin of The Seiko “Shogun”
Immediately after its debut in 2008, the Seiko “Shogun”, officially the Ref. SBDC007, attained legendary status in the Horological sphere. The history of the iconic dive watch is themed around community involvement and a display of exceptional craftsmanship from Seiko.
The nickname was bestowed upon the divers’ from an adoring international public. It began with the watch’s description as a “full battle armor” with “crisp lines” that evoked imagery of a warrior under attack.
The trend continued, and like a pop out of the woodwork, Shogun was embraced by Seiko’s fanbase because of the imposing presence of the timepiece due to the armor-like elements of the case. The nickname quickly spread and became deeply ingrained in the watch’s identity, representing the dive watch’s comfort, character, value, and charm.
The Shogun is presented in a 44mm titanium case which, although lighter than steel, is highly capable of withstanding an impact without distortion.
Coming from the Seiko Prospex line, the watch is powered by the caliber 6R15 movement, which guarantees accurate timekeeping and boasts a 50-hour power reserve with hacking and manual winding functions.
The Story of the Seiko Shogun attests to the commitment and passion of a caring community. Its alluring design, combined with excellence, undoubtedly guaranteed it a spot in watchmaking history.
The deeper we uncover the Seiko Shogun, the more we face outstanding testaments of unique features and enduring appeal. With all these in perspective, there’s no argument that the Seiko Shogun is an iconic timepiece with a track record of excellence.
Seiko “Shogun” First Generation
The first generation of the Seiko Shogun was released in 2008. The SBDC007, along with its orange variant SBDC009 were the two dive watches to first appear in Seiko’s catalog. Let’s take a closer look at the SBDC007.
The Case & Bracelet
The case of the SBDC007 had large dimensions. It measured 44mm in diameter (without the crown) and was 13.3mm thick, with a lug-to-lug distance of 50.75mm. Titanium was used for both the case and the bracelet, making the watch lightweight and providing a high level of resistance to corrosion and outstanding durability.
The classic elements defining the Shogun’s distinctive feature were first evident in the case of the SBDC007, as it featured a muscular angularity with razor-sharp transitions.
The sharp dynamism of the watch can be noticed in crown protection, robust shoulders, angled inner lugs, deeply notched bezel, and flowing bevel along the circumference of the case that results in four flawless angles where the steeply angled lug descends.
The case is brushed on top while the sides are polished, and the screw-down crown is signed with a simple S. The screw-in case back is also polished and has a few specs engraved in it as well as the Seiko Divers Tsunami logo.
The titanium bracelet features a three-fold clasp with a secure lock, a diver’s extension, and a push-button release.
The Dial
The dial of the SBDC007 is presented in black with applied dot markers. The black surface is matte-finished, making the applied hour markers stand out all the more elegantly. At 12 o’clock, you will notice the usual inverted triangle or arrow with a line in the middle.
At 6 o’clock, there’s an italicized “Automatic” inscription, followed by “SCUBA” and then “200m” underneath it, keeping the symmetry quite balanced. Again the 6 and 9 o’clock markers are presented in sword-tip shapes that match the minute hand, while the hour hand is a reflection of the 12 o’clock marker.
There’s a neat date window at 3 o’clock and both hands and indices have been filled with Seiko’s proprietary Lumi Brite for excellent legibility in low-light conditions. The unidirectional bezel is executed in titanium and is a bit aggressive, with sharp sand-blasted knurling that gives it exceptional grip capabilities.
Movement
Under the hood of the SBDC007 is Seiko’s in-house 6R15 movement. The movement, which is just a step below most of the mainstream “high-beat” movements from Seiko, was produced in 2005. It is an upgrade from its predecessor, the 7S26, as it adds the hand winding and hacking mechanism to it.
It operates with 23 jewels and beats at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, keeping the second’s hand sweeping gracefully across the dial. It provides a power reserve of approximately 50 hours and is relatively accurate at +25/-15 seconds per day. The caliber 6R15 is a premium workforce and was made popular by Seiko’s SARB series, Seiko’s “Sumo”, “Alpinist”, and “62MAS Re-edition” watches.
Water Resistance
The SBDC007 is water resistant to 200 meters or 660 feet, making it a proper dive tool. This means it can be used for scuba diving and will comfortably keep accurate time when worn for other recreational water sports.
Other Models Of The First Generation
The other models of the first generation include the SBDC009 and SBDC029 and two limited editions, SPB057 and SPB099.
While the SBDC007 was popularly termed the “Black Shogun,” with its sleek and timeless design, the SBDC009 was referred to as the “Orange Shogun” because its vibrant color commanded a bold statement.
Moreover, due to Seiko’s commitment to continual innovation, loyalists eagerly awaited subsequent iterations. So, in 2015, Seiko ignited the passion of its dedicated fan base by introducing the Black Shogun Prospex (ref: SBDC029) to a zealous group of brand loyalists.
The SBDC029 was pretty much a relaunch of the SBDC007 with little changes on the dial. Compared to the SBDC007, the dial of the SBDC029 had different dial inscriptions. It featured the Prospex “X” logo in addition to the word “Automatic”, but this time, all capitalized.
Beneath that, you’ll see “DIVER’S 200m” neatly spelled out. Recall that the SBDC007 had an italicized “Automatic” inscription with the word “SCUBA” (not Diver’s) and then “200m” underneath it.
To cater to the desires of watch collectors, Seiko introduced limited editions of the Shogun designed exclusively for Thailand. Some of these editions were the Zimbe Shogun (ref: SPB057) and the Zimbe Red Shogun (ref: SPB099), released in 2017 and 2019, respectively.
Zimbe is a word coined from the Japanese name “Jinbe Zame”, meaning “whale shark”. The movement, case material, and layout of the dial are the same, but again, there are a few tweaks.
The dials have a graduating scheme, and the words ‘Automatic’ at 6 o’clock have been replaced with “Limited Edition”. The SPB057J and SPB099 also feature sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coating, as well as cyclops over the date window at 3 o’clock.
Seiko “Shogun” Second Generation
The second generation of the Seiko Shogun was launched in 2020 under the reference numbers SPB191J1 and SPB189J1. The mission of this launch was to replace its predecessor with enhanced reliability and functionality, so the main upgrade is more technical than visual.
That said, the Seiko Prospex Shogun SPB191J1 and SPB189J1 watches retain the core personality of the SBDC007 while incorporating some of the brand’s newest materials and technologies.
For dimensions, they measure 43.5mm in diameter (so still large yet able to sit comfortably), 51mm from lug to lug, and 13.3mm in thickness. The titanium case has the same angular lugs and strong shoulders with sharp crown protections for the screw-down crown.
The case is further finished with Seiko’s super-hard coating for additional robustness. The watches still deliver all the elements of the Shogun we have come to love, such as remarkable legibility and a 200-meter water resistance rating.
Both feature a sharp-toothed unidirectional bezel like that of their predecessors with a titanium insert. The bezel of the Shogun SPB191J1 is two-toned and presented in black and anthracite, while the SPB189J1 variant has a distinctive black and bronze layout.
Unlike the first Shogun generation, the Prospex Shogun SPB191J1 and SPB189J1 models have an upgraded sapphire crystal, which has a better scratch resistance than the Hardlex crystal found in the first generation.
The dials of the second generation also appear smoother and more rounded, resembling those on the Seiko Monster, and boast elegant triangle-shaped markers (no dots this time around) with more rounded hands.
We highlighted earlier that the main difference is more technical, which is evident in the movement mechanism. The second generation features the updated 6R35 caliber with 24 jewels and an impressive 70-hour power reserve. In contrast, the first generation uses 6R15 caliber with 23 jewels and a 50-hour power reserve.
While both movements offer hacking functionality and manual winding, the major improvement can be seen in the power reserve as the 6R35 provides 20 hours more than the 6R15.
Ultimately, the second-generation Shogun watches stand out in more ways than one. The various tweaks on the dial enhance legibility, while the improved power reserve makes it a better choice for watch enthusiasts.
Seiko “Shogun” vs Other Seiko Dive Watches
Seiko has been at the forefront of new technologies and designs since Kintarō Hattori released the brand’s first pocket watch, the Seikosha Timekeeper, in 1895.
The Seiko Shogun and other Seiko dive watches adhere to the brand’s high standards for the manufacturing of divers, garnering acclaim from professional divers all over the globe. However, the brand offers different types of diver’s watches at different price points.
Currently, there are over 120 models of divers in the Seiko Prospex collection, from mechanical watches to the solar-powered Prospex PADI Chronographs. Let’s see how the Seiko “Shogun” compares against other Seiko Dive Watches.
1. Quality
Even though Seiko has always focused on creating affordable dive watches, its watchmaking expertise and its proprietary technology have made it synonymous with high quality and expert craftsmanship.
There may be more style and functionality at almost every hundred-dollar increment when it comes to the watches in its catalog. But you can be sure that each one is made of high-quality raw materials, and the Shogun is no exception.
All Seiko divers undergo a series of stringent lab tests to prove quality, reliability, and durability before they are released to the general public. So the Shogun, like other dive watches, is designed to last long. The protective glass of the more recent release is made up of high-grade sapphire, while the older iterations feature Hardlex crystal.
Titanium, which is about 40% lighter than stainless steel but just as durable against impacts with similar technical and physical qualities, also gives the Shogun an edge over other dive watches from the brand.
Divers with nickel sensitivity will find the Shogun a preferable option because of the use of titanium. But, all in all, the quality is up to par with premium dive watches at the cutting edge of technology.
2. Legibility
Seiko dive watches are known for their straightforward, thoughtful, and highly legible design. Lume is always generously applied to the hands and indices with a high level of finishing on the hands and markers that not only play with the light for aesthetic purposes but also heighten the legibility of the watch.
The Shogun like many other dive watches has Seiko’s LumiBrite on the dial which glows brightly in the dark and will keep the timepiece highly legible at depths of 200 meters underwater. LumiBrite is a tremendously improved luminous paint that is completely free of radioactive elements and quickly absorbs light energy on exposure to it which it stores and emits in the dark.
Visibility is enhanced in every detail, and the bold markers and handset of the Shogun are a testament to this. Add that to an uncluttered dial, and you have a timepiece with no compromise or distracting ornamentation, a feature of every dive watch from the Seiko.
3. Movement
Seiko dive watches use three different movement variations. First, we have automatic or mechanical movements (such as the 6R35 in the Shogun) which are self-winding and work by harnessing the kinetic energy from the wearer’s natural movements.
Some other dive watches utilize quartz. This means they are powered by a battery that transfers an electric current via the quartz crystal, thus creating vibration and oscillation. The electric pulse from this oscillating movement then powers a small electric motor that turns the gears in the watch.
The last set of dive watches uses solar energy and works by converting light energy into electrical energy, which it stores in the rechargeable battery and ultimately uses to power the watch. The first generation of the Shogun used the 6R15 caliber, while the second generation is powered by the 6R35 caliber.
The latter is an evolution of the 6R15 movement and is found in many mid-range Prospex watches. Even though it’s not a very accurate movement, it is robust, reliable, easy to service, and offers great value for money. Quartz divers win in terms of accuracy and convenience.
Even though the 6R15 and 6R35 of the Shogun serve their purpose and count as a reliable power horses, the accuracy is poor. You will find them in dive watches that typically span the $300-$600 range, including famous dive watches like the ‘Sumo’ (Seiko SPB103J1) and the Seiko Prospex Recreation (Ref. SPB053J1).
4. Design
When compared with other dive watches from Seiko, the Shogun utilizes the same layout but adds something a little extra. The element of beauty in The Shogun can be found in the interplay of sharp angles and flat surfaces that interact beautifully with light and shadow to create a striking aesthetic effect.
When you look at the SPB189 & SPB191, you can see the standard divers watch feature with rounded sides and integrated lugs but the sharp lines and resilience of the Shogun are quite distinctive.
Seiko knows better than to change a proven recipe, so every feature in the Prospex collection that is loved can be seen here. I mean the overall design (which is close to that of a Samurai watch), the reasonable price, and of course, the overall performance.
So there are no major differences, only little tweaks here and there that make the watch appear more angular, creating a beautiful contrast, light on one side and shadow on the other to create an element of beauty.
At the core, the Shogun is just like other dive watches from Seiko with a polished and brushed case, screwed case back, a screw-down crown (both guaranteeing a 200m water resistance), and a highly legible dial.
5. Price
In terms of value for money, the Seiko Shogun holds its ground against other Seiko dive watches. When comparing prices, the Seiko Shogun is competitively priced within the dive watch market.
The Seiko Monster, for instance, starts at around $250. The Seiko Samurai is priced at about $525, while the Seiko Turtle hovers around the $400 mark. The Seiko Tuna series, known for its durability, can range in price from $300 to over $800, depending on the model and condition.
While these other dive watches have unique features and price points, the Seiko Shogun remains compelling.
The Seiko Shogun stands out on its own merits, but it is one of the most expensive entry-level dive watches from the Japanese Giant Watchmaker because titanium is used for the case and strap. Titanium watches are generally more expensive than stainless steel.
Even though the latter is abundant and readily available, it is more difficult to process and costs more to purchase and repair hence the higher price.
Whether you’re a sports enthusiast, an adventure seeker, or simply appreciate a high-quality dive watch, the Seiko Shogun offers a compelling package that will impress you; however, prepare to spend a bit more for it.
Should You Buy A Seiko “Shogun”?
The Shogun is a timepiece that commands instant attention. Depending on the vendor and model, you can get the Shogun anywhere from $1,200 to $3,500 for a brand-new model, and it’s no longer news that its titanium case sets it apart from other watches in the Seiko Prospex collection. Here are four reasons why you should consider adding Seiko Shogun to your collection.
The value is just incredible.
The Shogun is a watch synonymous with excellent quality, fit, and finish. You will instantly recognize the high quality when you hold it in your hands. The watch is designed to be robust, reliable, and dependable.
It is built using high-quality materials.
Titanium is one of the strongest materials out there, with a higher strength-to-density ratio when compared to stainless steel. The robustness of the case and bracelet of the Shogun will ensure longevity and durability, making it a watch you could wear every day for years without the slightest sign of getting worn out. From the onset, Seiko has never sacrificed durability in the making of any component, including the movement, which doesn’t change with the Shogun.
Enhanced legibility in every detail.
From the hands to the hour markers and bezel, the high level of legibility can be seen in almost every detail. If you want a durable watch for underwater exploration, you need to be able to read it. Seiko knows this, and the Shogun will always remain one of the most legible divers. A generous application of Lumibrite on the hands, indexes, and bezel means that time can be read correctly from any angle and at any depth, adding to the watch’s appeal.
200 meters of water resistance.
The water resistance rating of the Shogun makes the dive watch reliable and suitable for the sport it is named for and for a great many underwater adventures. It can also be worn during sailing, surfing, and even fishing.
Concerning availability and price. The SPB189 & SPB191 are readily available and can be gotten from authorized dealers from Seiko worldwide. If you want a budget-friendly option, a pre-owned Shogun can be bought anywhere from $750 up, but you can purchase a new piece of the Shogun SPB189 here and Shogun SPB191 right here for $ and $1,350 respectively.
Conclusion
Let’s be honest. The Seiko Shogun isn’t for everyone. If you like the concept of a timepiece with an imposing presence, large dimensions, and premium features, then it’s a great option. However, the size and muscularity might not appeal to everyone, which is just fine.
Alternatives that can offer much of the Shogun’s features and charm can be found within the Seiko lineup. The Shogun, however, will forever remain one of Seiko’s emblematic dive watches beloved by devoted collectors, mostly because of its robustness and lightweight titanium case.
Japan is famous for many things — technology, food, culture, nature, and many more. But what really flies under the radar is perhaps the creation of a certain watch brand named Seiko.
Thankfully for watch enthusiasts worldwide, we get to appreciate Seiko watches without needing to join a waitlist (looking at you, Rolex). With Seiko getting more popular among watch lovers, their passion leads to calling Seiko watches nicknames and rarely calling them by their actual names.
But I don’t blame them. Seiko’s watches’ names can be boring and long as most of them consist of random letters and numbers, like SNJ025P1, S23631, SRPE93K, and more. Instead of these meaningless numbers, they are named the Arnie, Tuna, and Turtle, respectively. Aren’t they a hundred times more memorable and interesting? Anyway, I think you get my point.
The Seiko Pogue (6139-6005) is no different, being nicknamed by Seiko lovers. In this topic, we will dive deeper into why it is named the Pogue. Why is it so special? And are there other “Pogues” out there?
Seiko 6139
It was in 1969 that Seiko released perhaps one of the world’s most important watches: the Seiko 6139. It came in different dial variations with the name 6139-600X, depending on the specific market.
It was also often called the “Speed Timer” as it features a chronograph function. At that time, it was considered a cutting-edge timepiece that included multiple advanced features in a single watch: a 30-minute chronograph recorder, a day-date indicator, and a tachymeter scale.
Competing For The Title
Putting the more technical stuff out of the way, let’s first discuss why it is so important. The Seiko 6139 was the first automatic chronograph wristwatch in the world. Well, arguably. Until this day, there is still a debate about which watch is the first automatic chronograph.
It was January 10th, 1969, when Zenith claimed the title of releasing their first automatic chronograph prototype watch, and they named the watch “El Primero” — meaning “The First” in Spanish.
To compete with this, four gargantuan watch companies: Dubois Dépraz, Breitling, Heuer, and Hamilton-Büren (you probably know the latter brands as TAG Heuer and Hamilton) called the Chronomatic group, worked hard together to develop their automatic chronograph watch.
On March 3, 1969, they released their prototype in a glamorous event, and a month later, pre-production samples were shown during the Basel Fair. Zenith was also at the fair but did not manage to compete with the Chronomatic group’s displays, as Zenith did not show that many samples during the event.
In May 1969, it was Seiko’s turn to claim the throne by releasing the 6139 “Speed Timer”. Initially launched exclusively in the Japanese market, its debut was eventually released to the rest of the world. Here’s where the word “arguably” comes into play.
To summarize the above according to the timeline:
Year 1969
January 10 – Zenith released El Primero, a prototype
March 3 – 4 big watch brands released the Chronomatic prototype
May – Seiko released the 6139 “Speed Timer”, serial production
So technically… Seiko claimed the throne for releasing the first automatic chronograph for someone who can actually buy and wear, and not just a prototype.
History and Origin of the Seiko “Pogue”
An American astronaut named Colonel William Pogue was assigned to a NASA space mission called “Skylab 4” in 1973. Six months before the mission, Col. Pogue needed to do pre-flight preparations to ensure its smooth execution, which included timing the spacecraft engine to measure when it would run out of power.
This was very critical for astronauts because, in the event of mechanical failure in space, they had to know the precise duration that allowed them to find a proper solution within that limited timeframe. It was a matter of life or death.
Col. Pogue clearly needed something reliable and competent for this task and decided to go watch shopping at the Ellington AFB Exchange in Texas. 13th June 1972 marked the birth of Seiko “Pogue”, when he stumbled upon the Seiko 6139-6005 and snagged it up for just $71—an absolute bargain if you ask me.
First Automatic Chronograph in Space
For many years, the Sinn 140 was on the throne for being the first automatic chronograph in space, worn by German astronaut Reinhard Furrer during his NASA “Spacelab D1” mission in 1985.
However, a new contender dethroned the Sinn 140, the Seiko 6139-6005. It was in 2007 when Col. Pogue was found wearing the Seiko Pogue during the NASA “Skylab 4” mission on 16 November 1973, making it the first automatic chronograph in space, 12 years before Reinhard wore his Sinn 140 to space.
Before the “Skylab 4” mission, all astronauts were only allowed to wear the Omega Speedmaster, being the only NASA-certified watch to be used in space. However, Col. Pogue was familiar with his trusty Seiko that he wore every day for the pre-flight preparation and decided to take his watch up to space.
He did this by secretly tucking his watch in his suit leg pocket without official approval from NASA. I guess you could say that he was over the moon with the purchase of the Seiko 6139-6005 and even decided to risk his career for this.
For most parts of the mission, he wore the Seiko on the left arm and the NASA-certified Omega Speedmaster on the right. This was extremely cool to see.
Col. Pogue wearing a Seiko, working in conjunction with Omega for the space mission. Or maybe, he decided to wear the Omega just for the photo but forgot to take off his Seiko “Pogue”. I guess no one really knows. What’s for certain is that Col.Pogue loved his Seiko “Pogue”.
Although he did not wear the watch during the EVA Spacewalk, I believe his Seiko 6139-6005 was always by his side for the rest of his mission which lasted almost 3 months and 84 days – until 8 February 1974.
Last Days of the True Seiko “Pogue”
Col. Pogue proudly wore his Seiko until his retirement in 2003. It was then auctioned off for $5,975 in 2008 at the Heritage Auctions, which was used to fund the Astronaut Scholarship Foundation. A photo of his Seiko 6139-6005 was later released on their website.
It was extremely worn out. The bezel was heavily scratched, and the colors were starting to fade. The crystal also had scratch marks all over it. The case and pushers were heavily damaged, where obvious scratches and chips can be seen.
What’s interesting is the bracelet of his Seiko as it was not original. Many believed that he swapped the actual bracelet for a new one, probably due to the torn condition of the original bracelet. But, I think he wanted to have a part of his faithful Seiko Pogue by his side.
Nevertheless, Col. Pogue wore his Seiko with the intention of using it, not collecting it, and that’s what watches are for. The Seiko 6139-6005 was not only Col. Pogue’s watch and tool but also his best companion.
The Seiko “Pogue” 6139-6005
Case
The case shape has these uniform and graceful curves on both sides, almost like the end of Batman’s logo design, indicating the bat’s wings. What’s unique is the aggressive tapering of the sharp lugs from the case itself, which elevates the look of the case. The case, at first glance, reminds me of a hovercraft because of the sharp tapering lugs that cause it to “float” on the wrist.
This defined look of the 6139-6005 is even more emphasized with the case size of 40mm, especially on a smaller wrist. For a watch in the 1970s, its case size would be considered big. However, with the help of its short 46mm lug-to-lug and the design of sharp lugs, the case does not feel bulky and sits comfortably on the wrist. With a 19mm lug width to hold the bracelet, it gives the case a balanced and symmetrical look.
The case is made from stainless steel with a beautiful satin finish to ensure long-lasting, reliable performance. Stainless steel, being a more durable and harder material with anti-corrosive and scratch-resistant qualities, is the perfect choice for a watch like the Seiko 6139-6005. You’d never know if someone will take it on an audacious adventure like going into space.
Caseback
The caseback is simple – the Seiko logo, markings of “Waterproof” or “Water Resistant”, depending on the year of production, the serial number, and also the model number of your watch. Interestingly, watches with “Waterproof” markings were manufactured between 1969 to February 1970. However, in response to the general consensus among watch manufacturers, Seiko subsequently adopted the term “Water Resistant” instead.
The caseback is also made of tough stainless steel to help maintain water resistance of 70m and was essential in protecting the watch from potential damages like dust and rust. Being an older watch with a chronograph function, 70m water resistance was respectable during that time.
Bracelet
Matching with the case, also made with stainless steel, is the “H-link” bracelet with thick and polished end links. The folding clasp is also easy to operate and is comfortable on the wrist. However, the construction of the bracelet wasn’t great as it wobbles easily and does not have the best of finishes. But for $71 (at that time), it will suffice.
Crystal
Unlike most high-end watches, unfortunately, the Seiko Pogue has a Hardlex crystal instead of a more scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. But Hardlex crystal has its upsides too. Made from Seiko’s own factory, this crystal can withstand minor collisions and features anti-reflective properties—an advantage that sapphire crystals lack.
This means you can properly read the time (or enjoy the amazing dial) on your Seiko Pogue, no matter the lighting conditions. Its affordability compared to a sapphire crystal also convincingly justifies the pricing of the Seiko Pogue.
Bezel
The Seiko Pogue has a Pepsi color scheme tachymeter, with about a quarter of bright red starting from 12 and a vibrant blue on the rest of the bezel. The striking contrast between red and blue enables wearers to effortlessly use the tachymeter function to measure time, speed, and distance.
The markings on it are also clear, crisp, and precise, with the use of white fonts for the text. This, combined with the Pepsi color scheme, really brings the watch alive, giving it a splash of sportiness and certainly adding points to the fun meter.
What adds an extra layer of fascination to the Seiko Pogue is a bright yellow inner bezel that rotates! Photos of Col. Pogue’s watch showed a white inner bezel instead of yellow.
Knowing that none of the Seiko 6139 models had a white-colored inner bezel, it was later discovered the originally yellow inner bezel would gradually turn white from constant UV exposure, which just proves that Col. Pogue truly loved his Seiko 6139-6005 and wore it so often.
The inner bezel is actually a rotating indicator ring with black-colored 60 minutes markings, allowing the wearer to measure minutes more accurately. Wonder how it rotates? Keep reading to find out.
Crown
The Seiko Pogue definitely has the coolest crown function in all watches I’ve seen. But let’s talk aesthetics first. The crown has no special emblem, guards, or other fancy-looking additions. Nestled seamlessly within the case at 3 o’clock, it does not protrude out like traditional crowns, making it barely visible from the front view.
Now let’s talk functions. To use the chronograph function, two pushers are located at 2 and 5, protruding from the case. To start and stop recording, push the top pusher, and the red second hand will sweep/stop; to reset, simply push the bottom pusher after stopping the recording, and the red second hand will snap back to its original position (at 12).
To adjust the time, simply pull the crown into the first position and rotate. Nothing special, but here comes. To rotate the inner bezel, you just need to rotate the crown at its original position in either a clockwise or anti-clockwise direction, and the inner bezel will rotate accordingly.
Still not special enough? Take a look at this. To change the date, you push the crown inwards, and to change the day, you push the crown inwards, harder, almost like acting as a button. Yes, there may be more efficient ways, but it is extremely cool to find brands coming up with ingenious ideas and implementing them into watches.
To this day, I have not seen any other watch with this function to change the day and date, and I hope one day Seiko brings this back (or I could just get a Seiko Pogue).
Dial
Striking is an understatement for Seiko Pogue’s dial. I really want to give credit to Seiko’s design department for having the guts to try something new, especially for their first automatic chronograph. The dial has a dazzling yellow-gold dial that almost reminds me of honey under beaming sunlight with its sun-ray finish.
The color contrast of this yellow-gold dial with the Pepsi-colored bezel really shows off the look of the Seiko Pogue, almost like it constantly has a spotlight on it. Such bold use of three primary colors definitely isn’t for everyone, and it is a design that you either hate or love and thankfully, I’m in the “love” category.
With its chronograph function, the dial has a yellow-gold sub-dial at 6 that is able to record up to 30 minutes. The black-toned numbers and texts make it easy to read for wearers. Another feature is the day-date windows, located at 3 framed with silver boxes, black background, and white font (red on Sunday), giving it a more well-defined look.
The dial also has simple squared-baton indices and baton-styled hour and minute hands in a shiny silver color. Giving a contrasted look, the second hands and the sub-dial chronograph hands are colored in deep red. Most importantly, all hands and indices are coated with Seiko’s luminous tech with the use of Tritium.
To complete the look, what makes the Seiko Pogue unique, is the information written on the dial. It features a “SEIKO AUTOMATIC” at 12, “WATER70mRESIST” at 9 and just slightly below the middle of the dial (between the minute and hour hands and the 30-minute sub-dial), placed the markings of the words “17J” and the Suwa logo.
Movement
The Seiko 6139-6005 runs on the 6139B automatic movement, an improvement over the original movement of 6139A that was used for the first 6139-600X batches. Featuring a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, a respectable thickness of just 7.1mm for a chronograph movement with day and date functions, and a 45 hours power reserve.
With this being a vintage watch, we can properly assess its reliability and reviews from its wearers from all these years. Upon research, many did not find any problems with the movement and only needed minimal services to keep it functioning. Keep in mind this watch was released 53 years ago! No wonder Seiko is often praised and seen as one of the most robust and reliable watchmakers in the world.
Other Variations of the Seiko “Pogue”
Seiko 6139-6002
Let’s address the elephant in the room. Most people mistook the 6139-6002 as the true “Pogue” instead of the 6139-6005. The difference is not obvious, but it is noticeable.
Similar to the 6005, the 6002 also has a vibrant yellow-gold dial, but the information on the dial is different. On the 12, it has the word “SEIKO Chronograph Automatic” (instead of SEIKO Automatic); there are no “WATER 70m RESIST” markings on the 9; and there are no “17J” and no Suwa symbol.
There have been several changes to the Seiko 6139-600X models throughout its production years, especially the writings on the dial. Let’s discuss what has changed throughout the years.
Information Changes On The Dial
1969 – early 1970: The words “WATER 70M PROOF at 9 o’clock, “Chronograph Automatic” at 12 for JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) models, and “Automatic” for non-JDM models. The caseback also features the “WATERPROOF” marking.
These are very rare to acquire because it was only released for a short period of time, making them more desirable for watch collectors. Late 1970 – 1971: The markings changed to “WATER 70m RESIST” due to a law that required manufacturers to include the markings of water resistance instead. Markings on the caseback also changed to “WATER RESIST” (used until April/May 1970) or “WATER RESISTANT”.
1972: Markings of “WATER 70m RESIST” on the dial were completely removed but maintained the “WATER RESISTANT” wording on the case back.
Dial Colors
The reference numbers of specific Seiko 6139-600X models do not directly correlate to different dial colors, as they can sometimes mean releases for different regions or at different times.
All dial colors also went through different phases of information changes, as mentioned above. Hence, in this article, we focus only on the other dial colors of the Seiko 6139-600X models to prevent further confusion.
Blue dial: Nicknamed the “Cevert” because it was worn by the famous French F1 racer François Cevert, who later died in an unfortunate car crash in 1973. It was also worn by Pink Floyd’s Nick Mason, which adds to the cool factor.
Interestingly, the blue dial was also released as a JDM model with “Speed-Timer” replacing “Chronograph Automatic” at 12 o’clock, and “5 SPORTS WATER 70 PROOF” (later changed to just “5 Sports” in 1975) at 9. This dial variation also comes with a black inner bezel.
Gold dial: Most well-known dial for the Seiko Pogue (6139-6005) and the 6139-6002. Most people also associate the 6139-6002 with the Seiko Pogue as well due to its similarities with the 6139-6005.
Silver dial: Possibly the rarest dial variation and is highly sought after by watch collectors. This also comes with a black inner bezel.
Teal dial: Another really rare dial variation, and it is speculated that this watch was only produced for 2 months. It’s nicknamed the “Sunrise” due to its red bar markings at the 6 o’clock sub-dial. This also has a unique “Speed-Timer” text at 9 o’clock written in red and a “Seiko 5 Sports” logo at 12.
Final Thoughts
What an adventure that the Seiko Pogue has had, been to possibly the hardest place to go to for any human being, let alone watch. Hopefully, the Seiko Pogue is resting well and in a better place. Perhaps it’s for the best so that other watches can rest well, too, from jealousy.
It’s easy to understand why Seiko has one of the biggest “cult” groups in the world, and I can clearly say that I’m proud to be one.
The Japanese giant famous for its affordable dive and sports models actually have a rich history of chronographs. Also known for its solar innovations, Seiko has become the number one place for beginner and seasoned collectors alike, providing some of the best entry-level timepieces to some of the most unique.
The combination of a chronograph and the technological prowess of a solar-powered watch significantly increases the utility of the complication. Regular mechanical watches do lose power faster when the chronograph is running, but this won’t be an issue seeing as your watch is technically being powered by nuclear fusion; pretty cool, huh?
About Seiko Solar Chronograph Watches
As mentioned, a Solar Chronograph is a genius combination of practicality with power-efficient technology. It’s not quite clear which model was the first Seiko Solar Chronograph, but we can look at a few contemporary or popular models to get you up to date.
The most well-known Seiko Solar Chronographs are all within the Prospex Speedtimer line, based on the automatic Speedtimer series from the 1960s-70s. In the range, you’ll find various iterations of the same format, all with Seiko’s solar Caliber V192, a 60-minute chronograph that also allows you to see the power reserve with the push of a button.
For those that prefer something a bit dressier, there is also the ref. SBPY115, which was introduced in the early 2020s and features a vintage chronograph look with the addition of a rather handy alarm function.
There are other watches in the Seiko lineup that are not strictly chronographs alone but watches that feature a chronograph function as well. The Astron GPS range is a crowd favorite, and there are even a few divers that fit the bill, like the ref. SSC741P1.
The most well-known is probably the Arnie, ref. SNJ033P1, a large and no-nonsense tool watch. The original Arnie was worn by Arnold Schwarzenegger in the 1987 movie Predator.
History of Seiko Solar Chronograph Watches
In the late 60s, the watch industry was experiencing a technological evolution with the influx of new movements, case materials, and finishing methods. By the 70s, the quartz crisis had taken its hold on the industry with cheaply produced but highly-accurate wristwatches.
Solar-powered watches are actually a wee bit older than pure quartz watches. Experiments were run in the 60s to try to use solar energy as a power source, and the first solar-powered wristwatch was finally released to the market in 1972 with the Synchronar 2100.
The first solar-powered Seiko was introduced in 1977 using the Caliber 4826. Rather brilliantly, it used 12 smaller solar cells located on the chapter ring of the dial. It’s unclear which model was the first Seiko Solar Chronograph.
As mentioned, the current Speedtimer line is based on the Speedtimer series from the 1960s-70s. The first of the namesake was introduced in 1969 and featured the automatic caliber 6139, an innovative chronograph movement and the first to feature a column wheel and vertical clutch.
This ref. SSC813 is inspired by the original 6139 Speedtimer with a more contemporary style and wearing dimensions. Fitting rather comfortably on most wrists, the watch measures 39mm in diameter and 45.5mm lug-to-lug, the case features fine circular brushing and two pump-style pushers, providing a bit of vintage flair.
Mounted on a polished three-link bracelet with a three-fold clasp. Moving to the dial, you’ll find a ‘panda-style’ configuration, a blasted matte white dial with darker subsidiary registers at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. These subregisters are actually transparent and function as solar panels as well. The bezel is IP-coated in a glossy black finish and features a tachymeter scale, as you’ll find with most other chronographs.
Within this affordable alternative to the Daytona, you have the caliber V192, a solar movement with an accuracy rating of +- 15 seconds per month, and features a power reserve and date complication. A great offering from Seiko for those that want to scratch the itch of having a stylish yet practical chrono for under $1000.
2. Seiko Recraft Solar Chronograph SSC667
The Recraft series is a series that was introduced to exhibit its heritage of innovation and styling of the past. The range allows the designers to let their hair down and use interesting colors and designs. The ref. SSC667 is an extremely affordable chrono coming in at under $500.
Measuring a reasonable 43.5mm in diameter and 12.5mm in thickness, the thin profile is slightly slimmer than automatic movements thanks to the solar caliber V175 within. The tonneau-style steel case features contrasting finishing methods along the polished bezel and brushed case.
The sun-brushed blue dial features the same photovoltaic cells within the subregisters and creates a somewhat iridescent hue under certain lights. Dimension is added to the dial through the raise rehaut on which a tachymeter scale is printed. This bundle of utility is mounted on a sporty NATO strap, producing a sporty feel that matches the overarching design of the timepiece.
3. Seiko Astron GPS Solar SSH121
The modern Seiko Astron line was introduced in 2012 as ‘the Most Advanced Ever’, combining just about every complication Seiko could cram into a case. The massive Astron GPS Solar collection uses GPS technology, and with a simple push of a button, the wearer has the ability to change their time zone.
The ref. SSH121, or “5-X TITANIUM DUAL TIME”, is a visually striking watch combining sleek lines, a super-hard black-coated titanium case, and a blue ceramic world time bezel. On the side of the 43.1mm case, you’ll find rectangular pushers, which also assist in the streamlined design.
Within the 100m water-resistant case sits the caliber 5X53. This groundbreaking solar caliber features a host of complications; GPS time and time zone adjustment, power save function, date calendar, AM/PM indicator, and, of course, a chronograph.
4. Seiko Excelsior Solar Chronograph SSC139
Ever seen a watch that looks like a symbiote and an android at the same time? Well, the SSC139 Excelsior has a unique design that many have described as ‘organic’, perhaps the perfect watch for vegans. It all starts with the bracelet, which has a two-tone design of silver and a slightly darker metal in a somewhat reptilian pattern.
It doesn’t have a name per se, but it grabs your attention.
This design language continues along the case with four silver-finished crescents along each corner of the bezel. Rounded crown guards separate the crown from the pump pushers, also finished in a polished manner, once again contributing to the sleek and futuristic look.
The large black dial is adorned with polished hour markers and hands while also featuring the three subregisters displaying an alarm, a seconds counter, and the 60-minute chronograph timer. Within the 100m waterproof case sits the caliber V172 movement with a proposed power reserve of 6 months.
A watch that certainly isn’t for everyone, and at 43mm, it isn’t exactly petite, but various of Seiko’s most influential watches weren’t exactly subtle. Perhaps the perfect antithesis if you already own a Seiko Arnie.
5. Seiko World Time Solar Chronograph SSG015
What about something that combines the vintage look of a pilot’s watch with a subtle hint of dressy aesthetics? The 45mm Seiko ref. SSG015 seems to fit the bill perfectly! The black ion-finished stainless steel case houses the caliber 8B92, which has a unique function – radio sync. It receives a radio signal to keep your time as accurate as it can be.
The black dial is where the business end of this watch is found. The rehaut features several important cities from around the globe, as you will see on most world timers. Large white Breguet numerals and tapered hands are all filled with plenty of LumiBrite, creating a rather legible look for such a busy dial.
The case is mounted on a leather strap which fits the vintage overarching idea. A peculiar configuration but one that was a crowd favorite. Unfortunately, the reference has been discontinued, but you’ll still be able to find a few if you’re really determined.
6. Seiko Prospex “Sumo” Solar Chronograph SSC795
From dressier timepieces back to where Seiko has made its name – divers. The Prospex line is a step above the loved Seiko 5 line and is home to some of their most popular references. The ‘Sumo’ nomenclature seen in the name of this watch is actually not a name given by Seiko, but it is actually a nickname, and many believe it refers to the distance between the lugs being quite large – 20mm.
The ‘PADI’ name, on the other hand, seen on the 6 o’clock subregister, does mean something. It stands for ‘The Professional Association of Diving Instructors’ and is only displayed on watches that would actually work in their environment.
You’ll find the V192 caliber within the 44.5mm case giving you the functionality of time, a date aperture at the 4 o’clock position, and a 60-minute chronograph. In fact, the 6 o’clock subregister also displays the power reserve if you take a good look at the dial.
Large hour plots and sword hands take care of timekeeping duties, while the famous red and blue diver bezel allows the wearer to time their time underwater – or perhaps just how long it takes to get to the front of the line at the DMV.
7. Seiko Flight Chronograph Solar SSC277
From the sea to the sky, we move over to a chronograph taking inspiration from several prominent pilots’ watches in the horological world. The first thing you notice is the E6B navigational slide rule, thanks to the contrasting use of orange on a black ion stainless steel bezel. This rather intriguing complication has various uses in the aviation world.
The next thing you notice is the unique crown guards that extend up and over the pushers and can be opened to make use of the pushers. The black dial itself is quite busy, displaying large hour markers as well as three contrasting silver subregisters. The hands also feature the same color scheme, combining the contrasting silver and orange.
Sticking with the ‘large pilots watch’, the case measures a prominent 44mm in diameter but a slim 12mm in thickness. The watch appears somewhat stealthy thanks to the somewhat matte black case and bracelet. Combined with the unique crown guards, it’s a watch that looks, for lack of a better term, kind of badass.
8. Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC915
The Speedtimer is the current iteration of Seiko’s sports chrono line and the ref. SSC916 embodies the namesake perfectly. Sporting a 41.4mm highly polished case, a red and black Tachymeter bezel, and a three-link bracelet with a tri-fold push button release clasp. All classically chrono elements and all to be expected from a watch coming in south of $800.
Drawing your attention to the dial reveals a similar design to the 1969 Speedtimer, featuring three subregisters, but this time these function as the solar cells for the caliber V192. Large hour markers and hands are filled with plenty of LumiBrite if you need to time something in the dark.
Integrated bracelets are the hottest thing on the market at the moment, thanks to heavy hitters like the affordable PRX and not-so-affordable Royal Oak. The ref. SSG021 sports a black-coated steel case and a tapering integrated bracelet sporting a three-fold clasp with push button release.
The futuristic case design spills over into the dial, which features sword-like hands that look as if they came from Blade Runner. The subtle touch of blue around the 6 o’clock subregister is matched with the blue bezel, which features various big cities around the world – the caliber 8B92 does feature a world time function.
The caliber also receives standard radio signals from Japan, China, the U.S.A., Germany, and the U.K. Other functions include a chronograph, a power save function, an overcharge prevention function, and many others. Definitely not a design that’s for everyone, especially not purists, but who doesn’t like messing with purists every now and then?
10. Seiko “Save The Ocean” Diver Solar SSC701
Perhaps a futuristic chrono isn’t your game. Maybe you’d like a robust diver, like the 43.5mm stainless steel ref. SSC701. While it may seem like something you’d see every day, this is part of their ‘Save the Ocean Prospex’ line and features a dial adorned with various hues of blues in a wave pattern. Parts of the proceeds will be donated to the non-profit Fabien Cousteau Ocean Learning Center.
Large white hour markers and hand make the busy dial rather legible, and the massive 60-minute track on the unidirectional blue-black bezel will come in handy within murky waters. Thanks to a screw-down crown and pushers, you have 200m of water resistance combined with the blue rubber strap, making this Prospex diver the perfect choice for your next marine outing.
From a robust diver to a sporty and slim chrono, we have the ref. SSC775 or otherwise known as the Macchina Sportiva Solar. Seiko and Italdesign created this version taking inspiration from the 1996 Macchina Sportiva (sports car). A unique combination of blue and orange along the dial and strap makes for a sporty appearance, matched with a sleek 41mm polished steel case.
The hexagonal pattern dial features two recessed circular subregisters and one hexagonal subregister, the latter located at the 9 o’clock position. As with most chronographs, a tachymeter is presented on the sloped rehaut (or flange), and beneath the applied Seiko name sits a recessed date aperture.
The dial accomplishes a sporty and aesthetic look without having too much visual pollution, a feat easier said than done when considering it’s a solar-powered chrono.
Pump pushers and a textured screw-down case not only solidify the sporty nature of the timepiece but also afford the watch 100m water resistance.
12. Seiko Coutura Perpetual Calendar SSC787
Coming back to the futuristic chronographs we discussed earlier, but this time in silver with subtle hints of blue on the bezel and hands. A three-link integrated bracelet is matched with a polished 44mm stainless steel case, resistant to 100m below sea level.
The dial is certainly the business end of the timepiece, a rather quirky design. The main dial features three subregisters. The lower features two hands displaying the 24-hour and running seconds functions. The 9 o’clock subregister displays the 60-minute chronograph counter, while the 12 o’clock subregister displays the day of the week and the power display.
The movement within is the caliber V198, a solar-powered unit that has a power reserve rated at 6 months when fully charged.
From quirky designs to something more classic and timeless, this 43mm steel chronograph ref. SSC715 doesn’t try to be anything it isn’t. The polished three-link bracelet blends seamlessly with the brushed case featuring polished elements on the pushers and crown. A thin steel bezel with a black insert displaying engraved tachymeter markings.
The contrasting matte black dial starts at a sloped outer dial and features luminous silver-tone hands and index hour markers. The no-nonsense dial features three recessed subregister dials located at the 6, 9, and 12 o’clock positions. Powering the hands is the Seiko Caliber V176, a Rattrapante chronograph displaying the date at the 3 o’clock position.
14. Seiko Solar Diver Chronograph SSC783
Seiko is known for creating some of the most affordable divers that can still stand the test of time. The ref. SSC783 presents itself as another classic example of this, sporting a rather robust 44mm case featuring the famous ‘Pepsi’ color scheme on the bezel. Moving inwards to the dial, you’ll be met with three subregisters displaying the chronograph and 24-hour functions.
Below the 3 o’clock subregister sits the subtle date aperture hidden away without a cyclops. Large luminous covered hands and hour markers take care of timekeeping duties, while the red chronograph hands provide a hint of red contrasting to the blue dial. As is customary with all of the watches on the list, this one is powered by a solar-powered movement, the caliber V175, which will maintain an accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month.
15. Seiko Astron GPS Solar SSH024
Last on the list is the dressiest of them all, the Astron GPS Solar ref. SSH024. The steel case is covered with a brass-colored coating that has been hardened for increased robustness. Sized for contemporary tastes at 42.7mm, equipped with a sapphire crystal, and matched with a blue-black silicone strap – ticking all the boxes so far.
The dial is something special. Large brass-colored hands are matched with similarly colored hour markers and outer rims to the subregisters. The Seiko scripture is also finished in the same scheme, elevating the sporty watch to something a bit more luxurious.
Of course, three subregisters are located on the dial displaying several complications – a perpetual calendar, a dual-time indicator, and a power reserve indicator. Other complications include a world timer function and a GPS signal reception function to ensure your time is always correct. All the watch you could ever need, snugly fitting in a 13.3mm thin case.
Conclusion
Seiko is known for creating options for everyone, from the kid down your street to the millionaire who simply wants a beater while they go diving. The solar options presented here all feature multiple complications and a chronograph, a combination that seems like a no-brainer if you really think about it. Whether it’s your first watch or if you’re adding to your collection, you simply cannot go wrong with a solar Seiko chrono – hell, you don’t even have to worry about a power reserve.
Ah, Seiko… the Japanese giant that began as a clock repair shop in Tokyo but has enthralled us with astonishing value for over 100 years. When I ask people what they think about Seiko, I often get responses that range from admiration to disdain.
Yup, disdain. But only from the few enthusiasts who are hung up on Swiss-made. And I know that deep down in their hearts, they are attracted by the exotic allure of these unique pieces that reveal Japanese aesthetics and craftsmanship.
I mean, who wouldn’t fall in love with a well-regarded watch brand that offers access to some enticing and reliable little machines with beautiful, timeless designs?
For people like us who are content with non-Swiss watches, there’s a certain Seiko magic that draws us in, especially since Seiko offers a range of options. One of these is the rugged field watches with design codes originating from a prestigious military heritage. While originally invented for soldiers, field watches have become a necessity for adventurers and outdoorsmen.
Their simplicity, durability, and legibility make them perfect for adrenaline-pumping activities. So here are the 20 best field watches from Seiko on the market right now!
About Seiko Field Watches
When looking at every Seiko model, it is impossible to miss one of the brand’s most functional and straightforward timepieces: field watches. Seiko’s field watches were originally made for soldiers during World War 1, so they all draw inspiration from a military heritage and are designed to withstand extreme warfare.
Though the field watch catalog is extremely broad and cuts across different collections, many of them can be found in the “Seiko Five” collection. Launched in 1963 with the debut of the Seiko Sportsmatic 5, the Seiko 5 series includes hundreds of “daily beater” watches that offer high levels of reliability, durability, and value.
The 5 stands for a durable case and bracelet, automatic winding, day/date display, water resistance, and a recessed crown at the 4 o’clock position. These features, combined with the simplicity and ruggedness of these watches, make them great for hiking, mountaineering, and the outdoors in general.
There is the ‘Flieger’ collection with watches created for pilots and navigators. There is also a new Seiko 5 sports ‘stealth’ that draws inspiration from the original 5 Sports classics from 1960 and a 5 Sports GMT SKX re-interpretation.
Other iconic collections with robust and stylish watches by the brand include the Prospex collection, Seiko Presage, Seiko Cocktail Time, and Seiko Astron.
History of Seiko Field Watches
Japan’s most relentless watchmaking company started its journey in 1881 when Kintaro Hattori opened a clock shop in Tokyo. Hattori’s shop began with the repair of watches, and soon he began to resell imported timepieces from the West which could not be found anywhere in Asia.
The rarity of the imported watches made him extremely popular, allowing him to relocate to the epicenter of Japan’s commerce; Ginza. In 1892, Mr. Hattori, now 32 years old, began the production of clocks under the name “Seikosha”, which means “House of Exquisite Workmanship.” The growing success continued, and by 1895, the first in-house pocket watch, “the Timekeeper”, was launched.
The Laurel followed in 1913 and was the very first Japanese-made wristwatch. Seikosha was changed to “Seiko” in 1924, and the first Seiko-branded wristwatch was released in the year 1924.
The 2nd World War began in 1939, and it was at this time that Seiko began manufacturing wartime timepieces or field watches. These watches were built upon three core principles; instant legibility, accuracy, and durability, making them very practical for combat.
Over the years, Seiko’s field watches have evolved but continue to deliver consistently high levels of performance and value, earning them a cult following worldwide. Without further ado, let’s delve right into the 20 best field watches from Seiko!
Starting this list is none other than the Seiko 5 Field Sports SRPG27 – a silver-toned gem-in-watch made of 316L stainless steel with a matte finish that resists both scratches and reflections. What makes it a great field watch? It possesses top-notch functionality with a rather enchanting aesthetic.
Its sleek and sturdy build makes it the perfect choice for hanging out or taking a thrilling trip into the jungle. Apart from the fitting dimension of 39.4mm across and lug-to-lug distance of 48.1mm, the SRPG27 was built as a utility watch with a charming design.
The matte black dial is insanely simple, with Seiko’s trademark LumiBrite generously applied on the hands and indexes. Applied Arabic numerals add some class and sophistication while functionality is taken to a whole new level with a neat day/date window at 3 o’clock. What’s more, it comes with a second set of numerals printed within the main ones for military time – an essential feature for every proper field watch.
The watch is powered by Seiko’s reliable 4R36 automatic caliber with 24 jewels and a 40-hour power reserve. For a watch priced a little below $300, getting a movement accurate to +45 and -35 seconds per day may be a spoiler, but the design captures the spirit of the original Sportsmatic 5.
The Seiko 5 Field Sports SRPJ89 demonstrates the mastery of Japanese artisans. The obvious attention to detail and dedication to perfection has birthed this elegant piece. This one is a military-inspired timepiece that combines a good mix of ruggedness and elegance.
This stylish timepiece has been created with a 36mm case and a vintage calf leather strap which is just what a man needs to survive some serious adventure. A spark that raises this watch a bar higher is its intensity on the “Kelly Green Flieger suit-style” feature. The sunburst green dial is vibrant with a smart-casual aesthetic that is clear and easy to read quickly.
If you’re looking for a versatile field watch, this is the one. Even if you don’t plan on wearing this timepiece for serious tactical operations, the SRPJ89 is a versatile watch perfectly suited for any activity with its mission-ready look.
The watch features a navigator dial layout with minutes/seconds in intervals of five as the major numeral display while the conventional one to twelve display has been relegated to the inner ring.
It features a see-through case back which is a nice touch for those who like to see the inner workings of their watches. Like the SRPG27, it houses the humble 4R35 movement with a day-date function and is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters.
For a smart-casual style with a hint of vintage aesthetics, go SRPH29! This one right here flawlessly fits the vibe of a field watch with its tactical look and military air, thanks to the army-green strap. The SRPH29 has a mesmerizing forest green dial with slight tints of a dull lime-green coloration under direct sunlight.
The bold white hour markers and hands feature a generous application of Seiko’s LumiBrite, making it incredibly simple to read. The minute tracks with minute numerals in 5-minute increments and an inner 12-hour track add to its functionality.
And Seiko, to add even more clarity and legibility, included contrasting orange hour marker lume pips at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock positions. Talk about attention to detail! The watch features a slightly domed Seiko Hardlex crystal, which is scratch-resistant enough for everyday use.
It also has a day/date calendar, luminous hands and markers, and an orange-tipped secondhand. The SRPH29 comes in a 39.4mm stainless steel case with a brushed finish that runs uniformly throughout the case, including the bezel and sides.
The curved Hardlex crystal and LumiBrite hands and indexes also add to the watch’s durability and readability. The Seiko 5 Sports Field SRPH29 comes assembled in a stainless steel case that measures 39.4mm in width, 48.1 mm lug to lug, and 13.2 mm from crystal to case back.
There’s no doubt about it; the Sports Field SRPJ83 from Seiko has a bold appearance. It is just what anyone would expect from a standard field watch. Large Arabic numerals for hour markers, luminous markings, bold monochrome hands filled with LumiBrite, and a sandy-toned dial. It brings to mind the SNK series and is a perfect choice for anyone just venturing into the world of mechanical watches.
The stark beige dial with black accents has the familiar field-watch layout. There are bold Arabic numeral hour markers (including a smaller 24-hour numeral below), a day and date display at three o’clock, and lume-filled hands and indices. There is also a red-tipped secondhand that adds a pop of color and enlivens the somber dial excellently.
The watch case measures 36mm in diameter and is 12.5mm thick but wears slightly larger, thanks to the comfortable beige nylon strap. The overall aesthetics of the SRPJ83 gives off more aviator vibes than the watches we have looked at, and it is an adventurous field watch. It also has a see-through case back, allowing you to see the movement (caliber 4R36) in action. The SRPJ83 is water resistant up to 100 meters.
The Seiko 5 Field Suits SRPH25 is one of the most loved military-grade field watches from Seiko. This is the timepiece that does everything right, has everything right, and is solid enough to take anything thrown at it. Summer is just around the corner, and if you’re searching for an adventurous watch that can do-it-all, then look no further.
The SRPH25 is a great inexpensive, yet high-performing field watch that would suit any watch enthusiast looking for something traditional with a fashionable touch. The watch has a thickness of 13.2mm, a diameter of 39.4mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 48.1mm, which is close to a perfect proportion if you ask me.
And with a weight of 123.0g, the watch feels substantial on the wrist without being too heavy. The watch’s aesthetics make it great for adventures, parties, business, and casual events alike. The watch’s black dial is marked in five-minute increments, making it easy to read at a glance.
The 60-minute track adds to the watch’s functionality, and the luminous hands and index markers make it easy to read in low-light conditions. Seiko’s 4R36 automatic movement can be viewed through the exhibition case back.
The Seiko 5 Field Street SRPJ09 is a vintage-inspired military masterpiece created to be reliable, durable, and trendy. The design appears thoroughly modern, thanks to the sleek all-black polish feature. The beater watch comes constructed in a black plated stainless steel case that measures 39.4mm x 13.5mm, with a tip-to-tip distance of 48mm.
The black ion-plating finish of the case enhances the watch’s durability and makes it highly corrosion-resistant. The bracelet is made of the same material, and the tri-fold push-button release clasp with lock adds a touch of elegance to the overall design.
The black satin dial features a luminous marker track and a 24-hour inner ring for telling military time. It is accentuated by a white day/date display at 3 o’clock and protected from minor impacts by the scratch-resistant Hardlex crystal.
It is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and also features an exhibition case back, which is like a backstage pass to the inner workings of the caliber 4R36.
It is no news that the SRPH33 is a reinterpretation of one of Seiko’s best-selling watch series, the SNK80X. The robust and reliable timepiece combines vintage military design with modern functionality. The all-black street-style design is accented by different materials, textures, and finishes, making it a real eye-catcher.
The black dial, protected by a curved Hardlex crystal, features military numbers on the outer dial and Arabic numerals on the inner chapter ring, with orange accents on the minute track and luminous black baton-style hands. The watch also features a black double date window at 3 o’clock with white numbers and red and blue highlights for weekends.
The 39.4mm black ion-plated stainless steel case of the SRPH33 houses Seiko’s caliber 4R36 automatic movement with manual winding capability and 24 jewels, ensuring accurate timekeeping with a power reserve of approximately 41 hours. The case back is a stainless steel screw-down exhibition case, displaying this movement.
The case is water-resistant up to 100 meters and comes mounted on a black textile strap of canvas and leather, featuring orange accents on the inner side with a strap length of 20mm. With a weight of only 76 grams, the SRPH33 is lightweight and ideal for serious adventurers searching for a superbly functional field watch.
The SRPG42 is a fun watch with a refreshing look that will add a certain flavor to your outfit. At 39.4mm in diameter and a lug-to-lug distance of 48.1mm, the size is just right for most medium-sized wrist sizes. The green dial features gold-tone markers to match the case and Lumibrite hands and indexes.
The design of the dial is nothing eccentric, just the same highly legible display with large Arabic hour numbering, with smaller luminescent hour indicators and markers for minutes. You’ve also got a day/date window at the 3 o’clock position, large hands, and a red-tipped seconds hand.
A domed scratch-resistant Hardlex crystal keeps the dial safe, while the 100 meters water resistance rating makes it okay for swimming and snorkeling. It’s the perfect accessory to show off your fun-loving side while enjoying the sun and burning some energy.
It has been built to last with adventuring in mind, so gladly join outdoor activities with style and jump right into the pool or sea with the SRPG42. Ticking underneath the see-through case back is the Caliber 4R36 automatic movement with 41 hours of power reserve.
Seiko has scored another home run with the Suits SRPH21, a timepiece that ticks all the boxes with regard to functionality but is profoundly aesthetically pleasing. Ask me about a field watch that is also perfect for wearing out in the evenings and to social or corporate events, and I’ll offer you this one.
In addition to the beauty of the case, the stainless steel mesh Milanese-type bracelet is chunky, solid, super comfortable, and doesn’t pull on arm hair. The opaline sunburst white dial has been designed in such a way that it can be seen from at least 2 meters away.
It has large minute markers in intervals of five on the outer dial and black-rimmed hour markers with Arabic numerals at the center. The watch has a diameter of 39.4mm, a thickness of 13.2mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 48.1mm. As with recent releases, it is produced with the automatic caliber 4R36. It is also water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and features scratch-resistant Hardlex crystal.
Get ready to climb new heights of style with the Seiko Prospex SPB121. This watch is a re-interpretation of the 1959 Alpinist wristwatch and is a masterpiece with the same feel as the aesthetic watch of the last decades.
Powered by the reliable, just released 6R35 automatic movement, it offers a precision of +25 to -15 seconds per day and an impressive 70-hour power reserve and is a self-winding automatic with 24 jewels.
With a 39.5mm diameter and a slim 13.2mm case thickness, with a lug-to-lug distance of 46.4mm, this watch was made of calfskin to sit comfortably on your wrist without being prodigious; you won’t even notice it’s there (until everyone compliments it on you, that is). The stainless steel case boasts a simple yet sophisticated finish, allowing the dark olive sunray patterned dial to steal the show.
Encircling the dial is an internal rotating compass track, perfect for the adventurous souls out there. With its brown calf-skin leather strap (alligator grained for added sophistication), and a stainless steel three-fold clasp with a push-button release, this watch ensures a secure and comfortable fit.
It also features a rotating compass inner ring and a see-through back case. Oh, and it’s water-resistant to a depth of 200 meters.
The SNK809 is another vintage-inspired masterpiece that seamlessly blends contemporary features with a 1930s military watch vibe. The 37mm case is compact and wearable for anyone with an average-sized wrist. It features a fine matte, bead-blasted finish that opposes both reflections and scratches, while a curved Hardlex mineral crystal keeps the dial highly legible.
The matte black dial is playful, legible, and visually satisfying and denotes a true sense of attention to detail. Black dial watches are often tricky and can be hit or miss with regard to their reflective properties, but the SNK809 handles it quite well.
The layout of the dial is similar to what we have previously looked at, but this one has a subtle texture that can be noticed under radiant light. The base of the second hand is round and luminous, while the triangular tip is vivid red.
As with the majority of others in this collection, the water resistance of the SNK809 is rated at 100 meters, which is more than sufficient for non-professional divers like us. Topping the dial is our familiar Hardlex crystal, which indicates that this piece is playing in an entry-level field.
The Seiko Prospex SPB337 comes in a limited edition with exceptional technical features and unique design elements. Perfect for watch collectors and adventurers alike, the timepiece is a blacked-out interpretation of the dual-crown Alpinist that first appeared in the year 1995.
The 39.5mm stainless steel case with black hard coating has a brushed finish on top of the lugs, polished sides, and a smoked finish at the back, making it stylish and durable. The black dial with silver-tone markers and alternating Arabic numerals for even numbers and wedges for odd numbers gives the watch a classic yet modern look.
The watch’s practical and adventurous rotating inner compass ring with orange accents for all north-related texts is also a standout feature. Its sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface, screw-down crown, and see-through case back add to its durability and reliability.
This watch features a reliable in-house Seiko 6R35 automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve and manual winding capability, perfect for everyday or outdoor use. Its impressive 200-meter water resistance rating is a testament to its functionality.
The SNE329 is presented on a 43.2mm wide and 10.7mm tall nicely finished stainless steel case with captivating beveled edges and a push-pull crown at 3 o’clock. The bezel is interesting and features a coin edge and a black triangular marker at 12 o’clock that might trick a few people into thinking it rotates when it doesn’t.
Sitting on top of the case is Seiko’s proprietary Hardlex, which is expected at this price point. The blue sunray dial is the star of the show and contrasts with light beautifully, giving off a metallic blue reflection when sunlight hits it right.
The dial has been stripped to the barest necessities and is extremely legible and neat. All that can be seen are a few markings at 6 o’clock that describe the movement type and the water resistance rating (100 meters). There’s also an applied Seiko logo below 12 o’clock that keeps the symmetry of the dial well-balanced.
A nice day/date window has been cleverly positioned in a manner that allows it to nestle in between the upper and lower lines of the 3 o’clock marker. Speaking of clarity, you can’t miss the huge, elegant stenciled Arabic numerals. Seiko has done a great job here by decorating them with a gloss white finish.
That said, legibility certainly is pretty easy, even for those who may not have very good eye vision. The watch is powered by a quartz movement, the V158 and comes mounted on a blue nylon strap.
I can’t help but admire the Seiko Prospex SPB157’s modern and unique design, which tastefully honors the 1959 Alpinist wristwatch. It’s as if Seiko took a time machine back to 1959 and brought the watch to the 21st century, giving it an updated design that pushes the boundaries of watchmaking.
One of the things that set this timepiece apart is its impressive water resistance rating of 200 meters, which is achieved through the stainless steel screw-down crown that acts as a fortress against dirt and moisture intrusion.
The 38mm stainless steel case boasts a blue sandblast pattern gradient dial that adds sophistication to its sporty character. The curved anti-reflective sapphire crystal provides excellent visibility of the gilded LumiBright skeletonized cathedral-style hands, with a playful orange-tipped second hand.
The watch’s beating heart is Seiko’s in-house movement, caliber 6R35, which offers an impressive 70-hour power reserve capacity. The blue calf-skin leather strap with blue matching decorative stitch is the icing on the cake, adding a touch of elegance to its overall appeal.
The Seiko Prospex SPB157’s hack feature allows for precise setting synchronization, making it an ideal choice for urban living and the perfect gold standard for watch enthusiasts of all levels.
The SRP623 is a watch with classic good looks and impeccable durability. From the moment you lay eyes on it, you know you’re in for something different. It is unpretentious, rugged, highly legible, and as practical and understated as you’d expect a field watch from Seiko to be.
At 44mm, the stainless steel case may seem a tad large, but trust me, it wears comfortably on the wrist. The blue dial with silver-toned hour markers and alternating Arabic numerals and wedges for odd and even numbers is a unique touch that catches the eye.
Flip over the watch, and you’ll be treated to an exhibition window displaying the impressive in-house Seiko 4R36 automatic movement, which boasts 24 jewels and a 40-hour power reserve. The blue nylon weave strap is equally impressive, with a snug-fitting buckle clasp that keeps the watch comfortably flat on your wrist.
The quality is first class, and with a water resistance rating of 100 meters, you can confidently take it along with any off-grid adventuring, irrespective of the weather condition. This tactical watch can equally be worn with smart casual attire and will look stylish on your wrist when you hang out during the weekend.
The SPB117 is a rugged and tough field watch that has excellently captured the spirit of the Japanese “mountain men” from the 1960s. The Alpinist has a historical appeal that continues to enchant collectors for over 50 years, and this timepiece features the same design elements that evoke that old charm.
The aesthetics of the dial are not found in other models, and though the watch could never really be regarded as formal, it is versatile enough to be worn with a business suit. With its matte black dial, sleek stainless steel bracelet, and “shark’s tooth” hour markers, the watch is a true standout piece.
The dimensions of the case hit the sweet spot at 39.5mm in diameter and a thickness of 13.2mm. The all-black dial is truly stunning, featuring inverted, triangular hour markers that lend an eccentric and superior look. The outer compass ring on the bezel also adds to the watch’s adventurous character, with two rings of markings that make orientation a breeze.
The Seiko 6R35 automatic movement, which is visible through the screw-down case back, provides an impressive power reserve of 70 hours. This means you can easily take it off for the weekend and come back to find it still ticking away.
The SNZG13 is another model inspired by the legendary watches worn by military personnel in the 20th century. The watch has the same rugged, outdoorsy features and is very simple and functional. The case is well-finished and clean, with no frills or noticeable elements to speak of. It measures 42mm in diameter and has a height of 12mm.
The dial contains a lot of information but has managed to stay clean and very legible. Along the perimeter of the dial, you will find a raised internal bezel that adds depth to the dial with bold luminescent hash markers for hours and smaller markers for minutes/seconds.
The main dial features a large 12-hour numerical scale. Moving towards the center of the dial, you will find a 24-hour scale which provides a sensible utilitarian function to the timepiece. As indicated above 6 o’clock, the watch is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and is powered by Seiko’s automatic movement, the Caliber 7S36.
Housed within the Seiko Prospex line, the SPB209 is a well-built timepiece made to tolerate all manner of grueling conditions. The Prospex line from Seiko features a lineup of quintessential high-end tool watches dedicated to professionals that require them in different fields.
That said, this watch is a badass piece that can confidently stand toe-to-toe with the very best field watches from top watch brands. Everything from build quality to legibility and precision is nothing short of what a true professional yearns for.
The timepiece is presented on a 39.5mm stainless steel case with a screw-down crown for setting the time at 3 and another crown at 4 for setting the bezel. On the matter of functionality, the stunning graduated brown dial with gold accents features an internal compass bezel that will ensure precise timekeeping no matter what your adventure may entail.
At the outer rim of the bezel, the compass ring has markings for every 15 degrees, while the inner ring has markings for every degree. The North, Northwest, and Northeast markings have the ‘N’ in a vivid red coloration, which helps with navigation.
The watch is powered by the updated 6R35 movement with an impressive 70-hour power reserve and is water resistant to a depth of 200 meters.
The Seiko Field Chronograph SNN241 is a watch that punches above its weight in the affordable luxury game. It’s like finding a hidden gem that radiates class and manliness without emptying your wallet.
For the dimensions, the stainless steel case measures a fitting 42mm in diameter and features a slim bezel and lugs that have been satin-brushed to give it a sporty flair. The overall user experience is further elevated by the case sides, which have been polished to perfection.
The brown dial is pretty straightforward with a sunburst finish that catches the light like nobody’s business and has a raised chapter ring for that extra touch of depth. The sub-dials at 12 and 6 o’clock allow you to measure 60 seconds and 60 minutes, respectively, while the date window at 6 o’clock keeps you practical and punctual.
Slap this beauty on your wrist, and you’ll be rocking a brown calfskin leather strap with eye-catching contrasting stitching. This watch runs on a trusty quartz movement that keeps things accurate and hassle-free; plus, it can handle swimming and snorkeling with a water resistance of 100 meters.
The Seiko Field Chronograph SNN241 is the perfect blend of style and substance. It’s the kind of watch that screams sophistication without making a fuss. As usual with Seiko watches within this price range, the SNZG13 features the brand’s proprietary and very scratch-resistant Hardlex crystal.
Just in case there’s a zombie apocalypse in the nearest future, this is the watch you want to latch on to as you make the final exit from your home.
The Prospex SPB210 is purpose-built for professionals with heritage design elements similar to the Original Alpinist. The Alpinist model is one of the most recognized series of timepieces with a profound history, reputation, and adoration from collectors around the globe.
The SPB210 retains the spirit and vintage look of the legendary icon and comes packed with functional features and new technical touches to optimize its performance. It offers the same appeal as a traditional field watch would but has a sleeker look with retro vibes.
The case of the SPB210 measures 39.5mm across, and it is presented in full IP gold with two crowns and a screw-in display case back. The sunbeam forest green patterned dial is surrounded by an internal rotating compass track and protected by a curved anti-reflective sapphire crystal.
The dial features slanted Arabic numerals juxtaposed with luminous triangular hour markers. There is a magnified date window at 3 o’clock and a skeletonized cathedral-style hand with gold accents. The watch is powered by Seiko’s in-house automatic movement, the caliber 6R35, which provides a 70-hour power reserve.
Conclusion
So there you have it. The 20 Best Seiko Field Watches. Seiko understands how to fuse minimalism and functionality to produce robust field watches that are reliable and elegant.
The good news is that these watches are easy to operate and all scream adventure, agility, and fun at an affordable price point!
There are more amazing field watches from the Japanese giant, but this iconic selection entails some of our favorites. These field watches can do it all, take it all, tell the time accurately, and look flawless anywhere, anytime.
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