Category: Rolex

Whether you’re a Marvel or a DC fan (or not into comic book heroes at all), you will have undoubtedly come across Rolex’s iconic Batman and Batgirl watches on your horological adventures. 

These two GMT Master II models, which are the ultimate Rolex tribute to the Dark Knight and his bold feminine counterpart, have definitively colored black and blue bezels that can be spotted miles away by even the least-keen eye. Thus, they’ve become polarising components of the watch world. 

While both models share some similarities, their intricacies set them apart. While the Batman exudes masculinity with its black and blue bezel, the Batgirl is a stunning representation of a slightly softer approach to the timepiece. Let’s explore the nuances of each watch and find out which one is the right match for you.

The Dark Knight Timer – The Rolex Batman

The Batman, as the name suggests, pays homage to the iconic comic book character and his signature colors of black and blue. Now, it should be noted that this isn’t Rolex’s intention, but rather (like all nicknames applied to Rolex watches), the Batman moniker is the result of the public’s reaction to the watch. After all, a superhero name is far catchier than a reference number…

This particular version of the GMT Master II (1167010BLNR) was first introduced in 2013 and became a fast favorite amongst watch collectors and enthusiasts. It quickly turned into one of Rolex’s most sought-after watches due to its unique color scheme and functionality.

As mentioned, the standout feature of the Batman is its bi-directional rotating bezel, which is crafted from scratch-resistant ceramic and has a 24-hour display, lending credence to the GMT functionality of the watch. 

The black and blue combination is relentlessly striking, and the stark blue color is achieved using Rolex’s patented Cerachrom technology. The Cerachrom bezel is not only incredibly durable but also retains its color and shine over decades (perhaps even centuries), adding to the unit’s overall value and collector appeal.

The original Batman was powered by Rolex’s in-house Calibre 3186 movement, which is COSC-certified and ensures exceptional accuracy. The watch also has a power reserve of approximately 48 hours, making it reliable and practical for everyday wear but perhaps not perfect for a swap-out watch that you’ll slip on once a week (unless you’ve got a watch winder, which you should have).

Thanks to its GMT function, Rolex’s GMT Master II range is perfect for globetrotters who frequent different time zones, and it’s equally appealing to collectors who appreciate the unique color combination and the insinuated Batman theme. 

Although, I think that most people who buy this watch will do so because it’s a higher-end Rolex model with some edge, by way of its hues, that will speak to the personal tastes of prospective buyers, as opposed to the average watch enthusiast looking for a ‘walk around’ watch. Make no mistake, this isn’t a watch for everyone, regardless of how thick your wallet may be. The Batman requires – or demands – a certain degree of panache from its owner.

Queen of the Cave – The Rolex Batgirl

Rolex opened the curtain on the GMT Master II Batgirl 126710BLNR in 2019 and, in doing so, reinvigorated the Batman’s popularity in the luxury market in a way that few people could have predicted. And all this from what was ostensibly just a movement update and bracelet swap on an old darling of modern horology. 

Given that the Batgirl is practically identical to the Batman, except for a few very minor differences, which I’ll get to later, one could be forgiven for wondering why so much fuss has been made about this model at all.

Well, there are two reasons to be excited about the Batgirl, with the more obvious being its Jubilee bracelet, a five-link metal bracelet introduced in 1945 to celebrate Rolex’s 40th anniversary. The Jubilee bracelet adds a touch of elegance and femininity to the watch, making it perfect for women who appreciate both the technical and aesthetic aspects of a timepiece and for men who are after something that balances strength and sensitivity.

The second major update to the more recent BLNR GMT Master II is the movement. In place of the 3186 Calibre, Rolex rolled out their all-new, in-house Calibre 3285 movement, which is obviously also COSC-certified, offering all of the reliability and precision of its predecessor, with an increased power reserve of approximately 70 hours. 

This added functionality certainly warrants the release hype of the Batgirl, as does the fact that its bracelet moves it into an entirely new design paradigm. However, what inherent meaning does an all-new name designation for such a release hold, and what are the other comparative advantages of the latest iteration of the GMT Master II BLNR over the original release?

Batman Vs Batgirl – Who Should Win a Place on Your Arm?

I have an admission to make – the title of this article creates the impression that only two watches are being compared here, and while that is mostly true, it’s not technically the whole truth. In fact, there are officially three versions of the GMT Master II BLNR timepiece, and although we’ll be honing in on the two main players, there is a third contender that will sneak under the radar from time to time. 

The watch I’m referring to is the latest release of the Batman, which is in every way identical to the original but with an updated movement that matches the Batgirl’s internal workings. Bear that in mind moving forward – when I refer to the ‘original’ Batman, I’m talking about a watch that was manufactured from 2013 to 2019. Now, with that out of the way, let’s get into some detailed comparisons between our two leads.

Appearance

It doesn’t take a superhero to crack open the case of the Batman and the Batgirl’s shared features. From even a cursory glance, it’s all too apparent that these models have several characteristics in common, namely their 40mm Oystersteel cases and the GMT function (which is denoted by the extra, large-arrow-tipped hand), as well as the half-and-half, black and blue 24-hour bezel. 

The bezel is complemented by a black dial, which features luminescent markers and hands, a running seconds hand, and a date window that lies below Rolex’s signature Cyclops lens. Both cases are made of 904L Oystersteel, which meets the flat sapphire crystal glass with a degree of accuracy that makes the fissure almost imperceptible.

The GMT Master II BLNR, however, received some major updates upon its (re)release in 2019, which saw the watch unveiled on Rolex’s slightly less masculine, far more dressy jubilee bracelet, a five-link binding with polished central links that is a polarising contrast to the sporty professionalism of the GMT Master II watch itself. 

Although many people may be fans of the jubilee bracelet as a standalone item, or especially as the fastening on other well-known and perhaps more fitting Rolex models such as the ever-sexy Day-Date, I can’t help but feel as though the Batman’s Oyster bracelet is a more appropriate partner for this watch. 

There’s something about its simple, unaffected robustness that contributes a great deal of vigor to the entire package without detracting at all from the main focal points of the case. Unlike the Jubilee, the 3-link Oyster bracelet demands no attention for itself, happily and dutifully directing all audiences towards its master’s face.

However, one thing to be said for the case of the Jubilee is the unavoidable truth that it is a more comfortable bracelet. Perhaps that’s all that’s needed to convince you of its necessity. Thus the Batgirl is, without a doubt, more easy-wearing than her masculine predecessor, which means a great deal to frequent flyers who would buy this watch for its intended GMT use.

Movement

The (original) Rolex Batman is run by the Calibre 3186 movement, which is a self-winding mechanical movement that has been in production since 2005. This movement features Rolex’s usual suspects on sports watches, including but not limited to a Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers, enhancing the watch’s accuracy and durability. 

It should be said that Rolex’s proprietary Parachrom hairspring is not only anti-magnetic and more resistant to temperature changes but also roughly 10 times more accurate than traditional hairsprings when shocked. These are geeky stats that beg to be flaunted.

Being a GMT movement, it also features a 24-hour hand, which can be independently set from the main time display to track a second timezone. With 31 jewels and a running frequency of 4Hz or 28,800 vibrations per hour, time runs smoothly on the dial of Batman, and I can’t say that I’d want much more from a movement than what one gets from the 3186. 

Since 2015, every Rolex GMT Master II watch has been equipped with the Calibre 3285, which ensures a precision rating of -2/+2 seconds per day. This accuracy level is twice as rigorous as the parameters set by the COSC for a mechanical chronometer wristwatch. 

This is one of the upsides available with the Batgirl, the other being its extended power supply – compared to the Batman’s (rather generous) 48-hour backup, the 3285 movement boasts an ample 70-hour reserve, meaning you’ll likely never have to worry about running out of juice. 

The 3285 also features a Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers but has been further improved with a new Chronergy escapement, which is responsible for the aforementioned increased reserve.

Both the Calibre 3186 and Calibre 3285 movements are manufactured entirely in-house by Rolex and are COSC certified, ensuring their accuracy and precision. The Calibre 3186 movement has a long history and has been featured in many iconic Rolex models, including the GMT Master II and the Explorer II but has now been entirely phased out of production by Rolex to be replaced by the more efficient Calibre 3285 movement. 

Make no mistake – while the 3186 and 3285 movements share some similarities, the latter is a more advanced and refined version. It stands to be said, though, that both movements are a testament to Rolex’s excellence in their field and that anyone fortunate enough to wear either should thank the gods of horology every day for their luck.

Price & Availability

Both the Rolex Batman and Rolex Batgirl are highly sought-after models, and as such, they can be difficult to come by. These watches have a retail price of around $9,700 (the Jubilee bracelet is a touch more expensive), but due to their popularity, they can often be found selling for much higher prices on the secondary market. More on this shortly. 

As with almost all new Rolex watches, it will require a great deal of patience, luck, or both, to obtain a new Batman or Batgirl from the Rolex factory. Like the GMT Master II ‘Pepsi’, another fan-favorite among collectors, the Batman and Batgirl iterations of this watch are highly sought after, and thus, waitlists for a new BLNR timepiece can run up to 2 years.

Let that settle in, and remember that only the most special kind of desire is capable of transcending a 24-month wait. Thankfully, Rolex recently launched an aftermarket program that allows customers to purchase used watches directly from the brand. This is an excellent (and sensible) option for those who want to ensure they get a genuine timepiece under warranty without waiting an eternity to do so.

However, the program often has limited availability of certain models and isn’t accessible across the globe, so bear that in mind. If you’re interested in buying a second-hand Batman or Batgirl, prices can vary widely based on the watch’s condition, age, and rarity.

The first-release Batman with its original box and papers up to anywhere from $17,000 to $22,000, depending on its condition and service history. A second-hand Batgirl can be found for roughly the same amount.

Value Retention & Investment

This may be the section that many of you scrolled down to read, and in this economy, who could blame you? It’s no secret that luxury watches are being purchased more and more as investments as opposed to just being rewarding accessories or status symbols. 

It’s also almost a given that Rolex stands shoulder-to-shoulder with a glaringly small amount of watchmakers at the tip of the investment needle (I won’t use the word ‘pyramid’, for obvious reasons) in terms of manufacturing iconic watches that not only retain their value but increase in value, sometimes exponentially, over time. 

Both the Batman and the Batgirl have shown impressive value retention over the years, which contributes greatly to the excessive demand for them on the secondary market. The Batman, with its striking black and blue bezel, was officially priced at under $10,000 upon its 2013 release and now goes for an average of about $18,000. 

Although to get an unworn 116710BLNR, you’d be more likely to pay around $20,000 – more than double the original listing price. The Batman’s relative rarity, combined with its popularity, has made it a desirable item for collectors, resulting in prices significantly higher than its original retail price.

The Batgirl, released in 2019, is a newer model and hasn’t been on the market for as long as the Batman. However, it has shown signs of ridiculously strong value retention, with prices on the secondary market already coming in at approximately twice Rolex’s official asking price. 

Given that the luxury watch market has grown rapidly over recent years, this is no surprise. Coupled with the scarcity of new Rolex models due to the global supply-chain issues with which we’re all too familiar, the Batgirl is kicking proverbial ass on the investment front and indeed, if you’d bought one in 2019, you’d be able to sell that and, provided you’ve got the patience of a monk, afford two new BLNR models with your profits.

Ultimately, when it comes to investing in watches, it’s important to consider the rarity, condition, and history of each piece. Both the Batman and the Batgirl are excellent investments due to their popularity and limited production. 

However, it’s important to note that the value of any investment can fluctuate and that there are never any guarantees – we’re looking at a rather volatile market, comparatively speaking. No one knows when the taste for these watches could diminish enough to negatively affect their prices, but I, for one, still think that now more than ever, a professional Rolex is a great investment, especially as it looks much better than a government bond.

Other Notable Rolex GMT Master II Models

I’ve seen some incredible timepieces in my day, but few hold a candle to the casually sporty Rolex GMT Master II. A true icon in the world of horology, it’s beloved by collectors and enthusiasts alike. 

It’s only right, therefore, that we take a quick look at some of the most notable Rolex GMT Master II watches, each of which has as storied and intriguing a history as the BLNR range of timepieces that we’ve been looking at here.

Rolex GMT Master II “Pepsi”

The ‘Pepsi’ GMT Master II is a timeless classic that has become an icon of the Rolex brand. With its signature blue and red bezel, this ultra-recognizable piece is a nod to the brand’s aviation heritage. 

As with all current GMT Master II watches, it’s powered by the 3285, with a -2/+2 seconds per day rating. Originally designed for pilots in the 1950s, the GMT Master II became a favorite among travelers and adventurers alike. Today, the Rolex Pepsi GMT Master II is considered one of the most desirable watches in the world.

Rolex GMT Master II “Root Beer”

Rolex’s ‘Root Beer’ GMT Master II is the only watch here to be released in more than one color variant under the same name, with the 126711CHNR being a graphic step away from its predecessors, whose bezels were brown and gold, as opposed to the newer Root Beer’s black and brown bezel. 

The watch was first introduced in the 1970s and has undergone several updates and revisions over the years. The Root Beer GMT Master II is a versatile watch that can be worn in various settings, from the boardroom to the beach. Its somewhat unconventional color scheme makes it an acquired taste, but given its popularity, Rolex knew something we didn’t from the very beginning of the Root Beer’s tenure on their roster.

Rolex GMT Master II “Sprite”

Rolex introduced the latest addition to the GMT Master II lineup, the ‘Sprite’, in 2022. This GMT wristwatch has the same black dial as the rest of the family, coupled with a striking green and black bezel, both quintessential colors in the Rolex palette.

Despite the novelty pairing of these colors on a bezel, that’s not the focus of the Rolex fan club’s fevered attention. It’s this: the Sprite GMT Master II is the Swiss giant’s first left-handed timepiece. Not only has the crown been shifted to the opposite side, but the date window has also been moved.

The Sprite’s unconventional design has sparked a debate among Rolex enthusiasts, and we’ll see whether this is a trendsetter or the beginning and end of a quietly quirky idea. Whatever happens, you can’t hold it against Rolex for trying – lefties deserve good watches, too!

The Good Guys Win Again

In all honesty (yes, I know this sounds like quintessential fence-sitting), both the Rolex Batman and Batgirl are top-notch watches with visual appeal that no other timepiece can match. They’re strong, pinpoint-accurate, well-finished, and luxuriously fitting on any wrist.

It’s important to note that while these watches are widely coveted and, therefore, can be quite expensive, they also have a strong history of remaining expensive, which is good for your peace of mind and peace of…wallet. Ultimately, whether you’re a fan of the Dark Knight or the She-Bat, the Rolex GMT Master II BLNR range is an excellent choice for watch enthusiasts looking for a high-quality and stylish timepiece.

My personal preference is for the updated Batman 126710BLNR, but whether you choose the subtle arbiter of class on a Jubilee bracelet or the robustly sporty original, you’ll be bowled over by the unapologetic aesthetic and endless reliability of these watches.

The color green and Rolex go hand in hand; this couldn’t be more true than with the Submariner Kermit and Hulk. They have odd names and are surely not named like that by the brand, but everyone in the community knows these models by these names. 

Regardless, both of these have gained legendary status amongst collectors, celebrities, and enthusiasts alike. But which one is right for you? 

About the Rolex Kermit

The Rolex Kermit or Submariner ref. 16610LV was released in 2003 for the 50th anniversary of the Rolex Submariner, which initially debuted in 1953. The use of color along the bezel was only reserved for GMT Masters at this point, but the Kermit broke the mold with the introduction of a green aluminum bezel matched with a black dial. 

It sported the same compact 40mm case with a 13mm thickness and ‘maxi-dial’ style, which, of course, increases visibility through the use of larger hands and markers. Within the 300m waterproof case was the Rolex caliber 3135, a chronometer-certified movement also used in the other Subs. 

Throughout the 7-year production, there were slight changes to the Kermit. The main being the ‘Flat 4’, a name given to Kermits with a flat-headed ‘4’ on the bezel. These would also have an olive-green colored bezel and got the nickname ‘Bertolli’ for the olive oil brand.

The Kermit remained in production until 2010, before it was discontinued and replaced with the Rolex ref. 116610LV, Hulk. The Kermit was rereleased in 2020 as the ref. 126610LV, but many in the community gave it a new nickname like Starbucks or Cermit (pronounced ‘shermit’ to denote its ceramic bezel). 

About the Rolex Hulk

As mentioned, the Rolex Hulk ref. 116610LV was released in 2010 to replace the outgoing Kermit ref. 16610LV. The case remained unchanged in dimensions. Technically, however, it did offer more wrist presence thanks to the large squared-off lugs synonymous with modern Rolex design.

The bezel was still a handsome green, but now the dial was as well, polarizing to some and gorgeous to others. The bezel was now finished with a ceramic insert allowing for more scratch resistance. The movement remained unchanged, and the watch still retained its durability and 300m waterproofness. 

This spiritual successor to the original Kermit remained in production until 2020, when it was discontinued and replaced with the newer Kermit ref. 126610LV. 

Rolex Kermit vs Hulk: Which One Should You Choose

And here we come to the bulk of the situation, the mainspring of the movement, the crystal of the case, and the lume to the bezel. Which one of these two (three) Rolex Submariner offerings would be the best for you? There are various things to consider ranging from pure aesthetics to pricing and availability. 

We will be looking at all three options, even though two of them have the same name. For reference, the 16610LV is the ‘Kermit’, and the 126610LV is the ‘Kermit 2.0’. Again, some people prefer Starbucks, but since Rolex itself doesn’t name these, we can technically call these whatever we want. 

And before we delve in, please remember to buy the watch you want. Do not be influenced by dealers, marketing, or arguments online. Buy a timepiece that tells you more than just the time. 

Appearance

Starting with the Kermit, we have a peculiar mix of a black ‘maxi-dial’ and a striking green aluminum bezel insert. This green is, of course, a subtle nod to the color of the Crown, but even so, for some, this blend was too much – at the time. Since then, watch design has developed and evolved, and we even saw a Day-Date featuring emojis in 2023! 

The Kermit was the first to push the tone changes of the Submariner, and there are even different bezel hues in the production run of 7 years. In fact, there are no less than six and five variations for the dial and bezel, respectively. Some of the most sought-after include the MK 1 with the ‘Flat 4’ bezel design and wide ‘O’ in the word “ROLEX”. We have the olive-green colored bezel options nicknamed ‘Bertolli’ for the olive oil brand. 

The case design might not be to everyone’s liking, seeing as these earlier models might seem small compared to more contemporary dive options. That said, if you prefer a lean, mean, and green machine, the 16610LV Kermit is definitely for you. 

Moving onto the 2010s, we have the release of the 116610LV Hulk. Named after the big green hero from Marvel, this Sub doubled down on green and exchanged the black dial for a sunburst green one. Again, upon the release, the public wasn’t completely sold, but as time has passed, most have come to love the Hulk, and it has been worn by numerous celebs like Zlatan Ibrahimovic, Erling Haaland, and Jonah Hill. 

The bezel color and material were updated, being a richer green and made from ceramic (Cerachrom). Both cases measure 40mm in diameter. However, the Hulk featured the “Rolex Super Case”, meaning it has significantly broader lugs and crown guards. This is when the diameter doesn’t really tell the full story, as the Hulk appears far more chunkier and angular than its predecessor. 

The Hulk also saw an update on the bracelet with the addition of an Oysterlock safety clasp with a Glidelock extension system, allowing for 2mm increment adjustments without the use of tools. The Kermit, however, has the classic Oysterlock clasp. 

And in 2020, we had the release of the Kermit 2.0 (and a slight update in 2023 as well). The Kermit 2.0 went back to its roots with the reintroduction of a black dial, but the bezel remained the same as on the Hulk. 

However, this was slightly revised in 2023 when the (unofficial) MK 2 Kermit 2.0 debuted with a darker hue of green along the bezel. This was a slight adjustment, and many didn’t even notice it; but it makes the MK 1 Kermit 2.0 somewhat rare as it was only produced from September 2020 to May 2023. 

Regardless, the youngest green Submariner had some other tricks up its sleeve as well. It gained a millimeter in width, now measuring a heft 41mm. The lug width had grown to 21mm but also featured slimmer lugs overall. These design changes have made the latest generations of Submariners wear a lot smaller and more comfortable than their predecessors. 

Movements

Rolex is known for using some of the most reliable and precise movements in the horological market. All modern Rolex movements have passed COSC and are known to keep ticking for decades if you look after your timepiece. 

The Kermit was introduced with the Rolex caliber 3135. These movements form part of the 3035 movement system, which was introduced in 1977. The cal. 3135 was introduced in 1988 with 31 jewels, and thanks to a duo-directional rotor, it had a power reserve of 48 hours.

It also featured a frequency of 28.800 BPH and was renowned for its reliability. The cal. 3135 is also the brand’s longest-serving movement. In fact, the 116610LV Hulk featured the same movement. 

The only change in movements came with the introduction of the 126610LV Kermit 2.0. The cal. 3135 was introduced in 2015 and featured in other models, like the Datejust, Sea-Dweller, and Deepsea Sea-Dweller. 

Rolex themselves state that over 90% of Caliber 3235’s parts are new and are protected by numerous patents, 14 to be exact. It offers Chronergy Escapement, which is a longer mainspring housed inside a barrel with thinner walls offering better efficiency. This increased the power reserve to 70 hours while retaining the same dimensions as the 3135. 

The cal. 3125 also has Paraflex shock absorbers allowing for better robustness, and a monoblock rotor, which also helps with the increased power reserve. 

Price & Availability

In case you’re not so great at reading dates, you can no longer purchase the 16610LV Kermit and 116610LV Hulk from Rolex themselves unless you go through the ‘Rolex® Certified Pre-Owned’ route. Thus, for most of us looking to purchase one of the older generations, we would need to look at the gray market or private collectors. 

In recent years we have seen a huge spike in watch prices which, unfortunately, prohibits most timepieces from many enthusiasts. Let’s look at the prices of the three different models, of course, without taking full sets, conditioning, etc, into account. These are the average prices we see being used.

Kermit 16610LV

• Retail (at launch) $5,000 
• Market price (today): Upwards of $14,000
• Market price (today) for a ‘Flat 4’: Upwards of $16,000

The Kermit will most likely increase with value as time goes on – especially the sought-after versions. While the prices are currently being corrected after the 2020 boom, the trajectory is looking upward for investors overall. 

Hulk 16610LV

• Retail (at launch) $8,500 
• Market price (today): Upwards of $18,500

Again, it’s highly expected that the Hulk will also keep increasing in price once the prices have corrected. While the Kermit might be a better buy right now, it would also stand to be the one that might be more collectible in the future, seeing as it was one of the last Subs to feature a steel bezel. 

The current 126610LV retails for $14,350, but you can expect to pay a premium on the market, closer to $17,000. Still slightly more affordable than the Hulk because you can still get it – but for how long?…  

Value Retention & Investment

We were all waiting anxiously in 2023 for the update to the Submariner, seeing as it was celebrating its 60th anniversary. What were we going to get? A platinum or titanium model? A baby blue bezel? The discontinuation of the Kermit 2.0?! 

Well, we got nothing. 

Nada. 

Zero changes whatsoever (to the Submariner, at least). 

This is where speculation and trends meet ends. Many believe that the Kermit 2.0 is not long for this world and will soon be resigned to the history books. This, as always, creates a massive opportunity for folks to gather as many as possible and save some coffee for a rainy day. We, of course, know that Rolex models hold (and almost always gain) value with time, so investing in watches is what many folks end up doing. But which do you go for? 

The Kermit will always be the first and currently offers the greatest return on investment, but only if you bought it at retail when it was available. In the current market, it is a great offering but is also subject to fakes, especially the ‘Flat 4’ models. With vintage watches, you have to be slightly more careful, and factors like polishing and what’s included in the lot can influence the prices substantially. 

That said, the Kermit 1.0 has shown great returns, but only if you get it at the right price. The same can be said of the Hulk, which is hitting the sweet spot for adults who finally have a bit of money to spend. They were assistants when the Hulk debuted, and now they’ve been promoted and have a larger paycheck. They fell in love with the green monster and are now willing to spend their hard-earned cash – because they can. 

This is perhaps why the Hulk is fetching a slightly higher price than expected at the movement. It’s also unlikely that the green-on-green color scheme will be used on the Sub again, but time will tell. 

The Kermit 2.0 is still being produced by Rolex and will not present a similar return on investment as the aforementioned models. The reason being, well, anyone can still get one (well, not everyone…). And this is where you might be able to make some money! If you can get it from an authorized dealer, you can still make a return if you sell it immediately. 

However, if we are to follow the trends of every single other sports model produced by the Crown, you will see an even greater return if you put your Kermit 2.0 away for a couple of years, especially ‘till after it’s been discontinued – just look at what happened to the Milgauss in 2023. 

Conclusion

Rolex green is a green like no other. It exudes opulence, and for those of us who know, it means business, style, and reliability, factors we do not often see coming together in the modern world. The use of green on Rolex models has grown exponentially from just the green sapphire on the Milgauss to a full green Hulk Submariner. 

Currently, the Starbucks is carrying the torch for the lunette verte models of the Crown, and it’s doing a damn good job. Loved by most but respected by all. That said, if you prefer your green machine a bit leaner or even greener, there is always the original Kermit or the discontinued Hulk. 

Whichever you go for, it’s bound to make you smile and draw attention – the good kind.

Rolex is the legitimate king of luxury sports watches; its dive watches carry huge significance, history, and importance to its sports watch lineup. Using the oyster case that has been fundamental to its sports watch reputation and water resistance, the Submariner is the quintessential dive watch. 

Among the first purposely built watches for diving, innovated, and made better generation upon generation, the Submariner is the champion of Rolex’s pursuits into the deep. 

Rolex’s huge success in marketing, capitalization of growth, industry-leading evolution of its collection, originality, and high brand value, has made the Submariner an unchallenged icon 70 years since its inception. 

A fundamental partner and participant in the huge success of its dive watch history is the Sea-Dweller in its many forms, essentially a hardcore variation of the Submariner. Sometimes this does bring forth the debate about which is better.

About the Rolex Submariner

The Submariner first saw light in 1953 and would make its official debut the following year. It was one of the earliest examples of a modern dive watch, only to be beaten to the market by the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms by a few months. The 6204 was the first Submariner reference and would be the first watch to reach a record depth of 100m.

The Submariner would follow an evolutionary development path throughout its 70-year existence and would see many variations with minor details and upgrades that make it one of the most collectible watches of today.

In 1954 the reference 6205 first featured its synonymous Mercedes hour hand; this was followed by the 6200 in 1955, which was the first “Big Crown” Submariner and also the first to feature 200m of water resistance. 1956 saw the introduction of 6538, which was made famous for being worn by Sean Connery as James Bond in Dr. No (1962), giving the Submariner celebrity stardom early in its life, which hugely impacted its popularity. 

1957 marked the first appearance of a military-issued Submariner with the reference A/6538, featuring fixed spring bars and a larger bezel made with German Silver for easy gripping and a tendency to dent and not crack. This would be followed in the 70s by the 5513, double-stamped 5513/5517, and the 5517. These were made to MOD specifications inspired by the MOD Seamaster, featuring updates like sword hands, crown guards, and a fully graduated bezel.

In 1959, the 5512 was the first commercial model to receive crown guards, and in 1967 the Submariner gained a date feature with the reference 1680 equipped with the iconic cyclops. This split the range into two, with a date or a no-date offering for purists who preferred the symmetrical dial. The date watches would also become available in precious metals like today. 

The 5512 would be followed by the 5513 from 1962 to 1990, the longest production run to date, during which many changes would be made to the Submariner, replacing the gilt gloss dial with a meters first matte dial, followed by non-serif typography and larger indexes known as Maxi-dials. 

The 5513 would share a timeline with the “Date Models”, 1680 and the 16800 (1977-1987). The latter would feature a sapphire crystal and a Triplock crown, making it the first Submariner waterproof to 300m, a number unchanged today in the modern line. 

A new model would also be added to the steel or full gold offerings, which would be the first two-tone reference in 1984 available in either a bright blue or black, the watch that made the 80s a very successful and memorable era for two-tone watches. 

The 168000 would introduce us to Rolex’s now proprietary 904L-Steel, followed by the 16610 (1987-2010), considered the first modern Submariner with premium white gold surround indexes and a modern movement, the COSC-Certified 3135. The “No-date” 14060 Submariner shared this modernity between 1990-2002. The 14060M would follow between 2002-2010 and became a Certified chronometer in 2007 with the 3130 movement; it would be the last Submariner to feature drilled lugs.

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner in 2003, we were introduced to the “Kermit” Submariner 16610LV, replacing the black aluminum bezel of the 16610LN with a green one for the first time. The first of its kind to properly execute a daring color amongst luxury watch brands and a fitting color to commemorate its anniversary. 

In 2008, to celebrate its 100th anniversary, Rolex paved the way for a newer, more luxurious, and indestructible Submariner, the “Smurf” 116619LB, that impressed with a host of updates like a maxi case, more durable and high-end ceramic bezel insert with gold/platinum markers, solid link bracelet, and new generation Glidelock extension equipped clasp that set a new benchmark on wearability. 

In 2010, the rest of the Submariner collection finally received the same updates, introducing the 116610LN Black Date, 114060LN No date, combination, and full yellow gold models. The LV version of the 116610 would now feature a green sunburst dial and would be nicknamed the “Hulk”, becoming one of the most collectible modern references.

Always ahead of its time, highly engineered, with elegant, functional, and timeless beauty, the Submariner is an icon. It became the blueprint for any dive watch that was to follow and therefore is the ultimate realization of a professional dive watch through its timeline that has evolved with the needs of its wearers, collectors, and storytellers of its legacy.

Its ultimate status and versatility have made it the most sought-after and proven luxury sports watch in the modern era for almost any and every luxury sports watch enthusiast.

About the Rolex Sea-Dweller

The backstory of the Sea-Dweller and the quest to go deeper than ever imagined began way back in 1953 when history was made; an experimental Deep Sea Special was affixed to the exterior of an experimental diving vehicle known as the Trieste and survived an unseen crushing depth of 3,150m. This was followed in 1960 with the Deep Sea Special No 3, which made the trip down to an incredible 10,916m.

In 1967, Rolex would finally release the Sea-Dweller 1665 with 500m of water resistance, no cyclops, and featured an innovation inspired by the needs of COMEX divers that would become the hallmark of the Sea-Dweller, a helium escape valve at the side of the case to stop the crystals from popping off during decompression after full-saturation diving. 

They would further test this technology with COMEX, a French diving company specializing in engineering and deep diving operations, forming a partnership in 1971. Among the 1665 Sea-Dwellers available to Comex for testing before its commercial launch in 1971, 5514 COMEX-only Submariners with helium escape valves were also provided. 

The initial batch of the prototype 1665 Sea-Dwellers would be known as “Single-Red” and be replaced by the “Double Red” two-line red text model with an increased 610m of water resistance. In 1977, the Submariner text was dropped along with the choice of red text to white, and became known as the “Great-White”.

The 16660 would finally replace the 1665 reference in 1978, featuring a sapphire crystal allowing it to increase its depth rating to 1,220m. It was also equipped with a more modern movement, the 3035, with quickset date. A decade later, it was replaced by the 16600, which yet again received a more modern movement, the 3135 with a longer power reserve; and came with a black dial that featured three types of lume variations in its 20-year production run.

The Sea-Dweller would temporarily be discontinued in 2008, for the bigger, badder 11666 Deepsea Sea-Dweller, with a larger 44mm case and a Ring-Lock-System allowing it to reach an impressive depth of 3,900m. It would be a completely new watch not restricted by its initial concept and received many advancements that made it an outright more capable, modernized, and luxurious offering. 

Among which was the move to ceramic bezels (fully graduated) with gold/platinum markers, solid links, and an overly engineered new clasp with Glidelock and a wetsuit extension. This would be a huge success during the recent large watch trend and would be the ultimate expression of the modern-day capabilities of the brand.

Rolex returned to a 40mm Sea-Dweller in 2014, which was well received as the “Sleeper Submariner” due to its similar yet thicker specifications to a regular then-current production Submariner. 

To retain its hardcore character, it featured a fully graduated bezel and a matte black dial. This model was replaced by the current 126600, a new 43mm variant with a return to the single-red text of the old.

The Sea-Dweller and the Deepsea Sea-Dweller have proven to be Rolex’s flex of its innovation and pursuits to the deep, highlighting the extended capabilities of its original dive watch concepts that is the Submariner and the oyster case. The extended offering has been welcomed by dive watch enthusiasts that crave hardcore specifications or simply for those who have a taste for more novelty compared to the refined and elegant Submariner.

Rolex Submariner vs Sea-Dweller: Which One Should You Choose?

Model Options

Today, the Rolex diver lineup consists of 5 subcategories, divided by the Submariner No Date, Submariner Date, Sea-Dweller, Deepsea Sea-Dweller, and Deep Sea Challenge. The Submariner No Date, from its inception till today, is a watch that is considered to be available for purists. Only offered in black and only in steel, it maintains its tool legacy of not being tampered with.

The Submariner Date is a variant that has seen Rolex experiment with different dial/bezel colors and case materials over many years to form a very essential yet proven collection. In steel, the watch is offered in two variants, a black dial with a black bezel or a black dial with a green bezel, a color previously used to commemorate its anniversary models. 

Two-tone “steel and 18k yellow gold” models have a familiar choice of black dial and bezel or a sunburst blue dial with blue bezel, and full 18k yellow gold models also have the same dial and bezel offerings. The 18k white gold variant, arguably the most exclusive model in the dive watch collection, now features a black dial and a blue bezel.

The Sea-Dweller, now offered in 43mm, is available with a black dial and bezel with a vintage-inspired red line of text on the dial for the steel model. It also comes in two-tone with a black dial and black bezel.

The Deepsea Sea-Dweller 44mm, offered only in steel, is available in two variants, the first being a black dial with black bezel, and the second featuring a deep blue to black gradient dial with Kawasaki green text accompanied with a black bezel, made to commemorate James Cameron’s expedition to the bottom of the Mariana Trench.

The Deepsea Challenge 50mm, Rolex’s newest halo model diver, is only available with a black bezel and matte black dial to match its hardcore modern-era capabilities. It also features a case and bracelet entirely made of titanium, a first from Rolex.

Build Quality

Supreme build quality is synonymous with Rolex; the concept of the sports watch has journeyed great lengths thanks to the unmatched ethos of the brand to evolve rather than revolve. The “Rolex way” is continuously looking forward to using the best manufacturing and machining techniques available, never compromising on reliable watchmaking. 

In the modern day, where watches have become a status symbol rather than simply tools, its collection boasts the perfect marriage of luxury and functionality. Virtually indestructible, better, and more capable than ever before.

Rolex’s dive watch collection shares continuous refinements with its entire collection. We now see the usage of only proprietary metals, solid link tapering bracelets, industry-leading clasps, gold indexes and hands, ceramic bezels with gold or platinum-filled markings, modernized calibers, and the finest tolerances in manufacturing, making Rolex the world’s leading sports watch maker. 

When comparing the Submariner range to the Sea-Dweller, essentially one being the hardcore variant of the other, they share the same DNA. Therefore, there is no compromise on build quality to be made when choosing either model.

Movements

Rolex steadily updates all calibers across its entire range. Its dive watch models currently use the 3230 and 3235 calibers, which are identical besides a date complication. You still get ± 2 seconds a day of precision with a Parachrom hairspring and the Superlative Chronometer specification. 

What’s new is Rolex’s proprietary Chronergy escapement, allowing for more efficient and reliable precision in between service intervals, and a 70-hour power reserve, a lot more than the 48-hour previous generation calibers.

Price & Availability

The most entry-level professional dive watch from Rolex, the 124060LN Submariner “No-date”, begins at a retail price of $9,100 and has a market value of $12,100. The same 30 percent premium can be found with the 126610LN Submariner “Date” (retail $10,250, market 13,750). 

The most popular model, the 126610LV Submariner “Starbucks”, has a retail price of $10,800, and a market price of $16,700, making it the model with the highest premium of 55% above its retail price. 

With the market in preference of steel models, the addition of gold amounts to fewer premiums in pricing with the combination Submariners. The 126613LB retails at $15,600, with a market value of $17,600, while the less black version, the 126613LN, retails at $15,600, with a market value of $16,350. 

The Sea-Dweller models fetch fewer market premiums than the Submariners; however, even with the more excessive/pricier models in the lineup, they still prove to be very popular amongst collectors. The Sea-Dweller 126600, retailing at $13,250, currently fetches a nearly identical market price, while its less popular combination counterpart, the 126603, retails at $18,000 and has a discounted market price of $16,600. 

The Deepsea Sea-Dweller 136660-0004 black dial retails at $14,200 and has a market price of $15,300, while its special dial variant, the 136660-0003 D-Blue, retails at $14,500 and has a market value of $17,400. The newly released Deepsea Challenge, even with its high retail price of $26,000, and highly niche target market of large watch collectors, fetches a premium market price of $32,000.

Rolex’s sport model collection has been limited to long waitlists in recent years for almost every model. The length of the waitlist and your chances of getting a desired model at retail will reflect on its market value, which also reflects its popularity in the market. This makes buying relationships with authorized dealers vital in hopes of escaping the premiums in the marketplace.

Value Retention & Investment

We have come to a point where we can almost assume that all watches discussed in this segment will be able to retain their value in the short and long term, even when the market has passed a recession as it is now, Rolex’s premium value retention is strong and in high percentages. This is due to the huge disparity in ratios in production to demand. This comes as a result of the wider knowledge available to consumers, consumers that brands like Rolex cannot satisfy over the next decade.

The Submariner’s popularity, hype, and versatility make it an easy winner in terms of investment potential compared to the Sea-Dweller. However, the novelty of the Sea-Dwellers, and the breath of playfulness and experimentation that Rolex allows for them, make the models a great investment over the long term.

Notable Submariner & Sea-Dweller Models

Rolex has forged a formidable dive watch collection with a diverse range of proprietary metals, specifications, complications, and capabilities, diving over 10 times deeper than the other. Let’s dive into some of them.

Rolex Submariner No Date 124060LN

The 124060 Submariner, known as the “No-date”, is the purest available iteration of the range, available only in 904L Steel, for the first time 41mm in diameter, returning to the more elegant tapered lugs compared to the maxi case of its predecessor, attached to an industry-leading solid link Oyster bracelet with a lug width of 21mm tapering to 19mm at the dual safety clasp that has Glidelock with 20mm of adjustment.

Due to its lack of a date window at 3 o’clock, the 124060 is loved for its symmetrical clean dial layout; it only comes with a gloss black dial paired with a black Cerachrom bezel. Its dial indexes and hands feature full Chromalight and are made of 18k white gold; its bezel features markings that are filled with platinum and has a lume pip at 12 o’clock. 

Exclusive to this model is the no-date 3230 movement, which was new in its 2020 release, giving it 70 hours of power reserve and more efficiency. This model is the foundation of every other Submariner and is an essential model to Rolex and anyone’s collection. (Retail price $9,100)

Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN

The Submariner 126610LN Date offers the same formula as the No-date with the added versatility of a date window. Still remains is the 41mm case with the more elegant tapered lugs, made in Rolex’s proprietary 904L steel, attached to a solid link Oyster bracelet that starts at 21mm and tapers down to 19mm at the clasp that is a dual safety with Glidelock.

Also maintained is its tool watch aesthetic with full brushing and only features polishing at the side of the case and bracelet, the crown, and the bezel edges. 

This LN reference comes with a black dial that features a date window at 3 o’clock magnified by the Cyclops on the sapphire on the sapphire crystal, a key feature to nearly all Date Rolexes. It is paired with a black Cerachrom bezel with platinum markings to make for one of the most recognizable sport watch layouts to date. 

As of 2020, all Submariners received a refresh, and all date models received a movement update with the 3235. Thickness remains the same at 12.5mm as the no date; its elegant implementation of specifications makes it the more practical desk diving option in comparison to the purist no date; this is also the gateway drug to other Date Submariner variations. (Retail price $10,250)

Rolex Submariner “Starbucks” 126610LV

The Rolex Submariner 126610LV is the enthusiast hit in the collection. “LV” in its reference, standing for “Lunette Verte”, which means “green bezel” in French, was first used on a Submariner reference with the “50th Anniversary Submariner Kermit”. The tradition of Rolex’s and its fans’ favorite color, “green”, has since been maintained and upgraded nearly every decade. 

The 126610LV, nicknamed the “Starbucks”, is now the grandson of the original Kermit and ditches the sunburst gold-green dial of the “Hulk” for a gloss black dial pulling off a more restrained look reminiscent of the original “Kermit”.

Case specifications of 41mm in 904L steel with the new tapered lugs, attached to a 21mm-19mm tapering dive-ready bracelet, with a full Chromalite lume dial and a Cerachrom bezel, and a 3235 movement to make it identical to its “LN” brother if not for its green bezel that has been kept forward from its predecessor. 

The choice of going back to black with the dial and the return to elegant proportions have made the “LV” reference a less flashy and more elegant alternative to its very popular sunburst Maxi-case predecessor, the “Hulk”. (Retail price $10,800)

Rolex Submariner “Bluesy” 126613LB

The Rolex Submariner 126613LB “Bluesy” is another model in the dive watch lineup that has the usage of a very sought-after color, blue, with the dial receiving a full sunburst treatment in bright blue and a matching Cerachrom bezel. 

The “excuse” for the model to receive a daring color is its main highlight, its combination of materials, 904L Steel, and Yellow-Rolesor (Rolex’s own proprietary metals). In this case, the model is fundamentally steel, with a “solid yellow gold” bezel, bracelet center link, insert on the clasp, hands, indexes, and bezel markings. 

It is identical in technical and sizing specifications to the 41mm by 12.5mm Date Submariner. Therefore, it makes for a more premium variation of the standard Steel Submariner, with the flash of gold, without the inconveniences of the excess weight and fragility of its full gold variation, which has a price tag of nearly triple this model.

The “Bluesy” has been an essential model in the collection since 1984 and was the pioneer of the combination-gold watch craze during the 80s. We are returning to those times with gold variations becoming popular again. (Retail price $15,600)

Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600

The Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600 celebrates the 50th anniversary of the Sea-Dweller and brings forth the return of the “Single-red line Sea-Dweller text” on the dial, reminiscent of the original 1957 prototypes. 

Controversial about this model is the usage of a 43mm case (with a black dial and a larger fully graduated Cerachrom bezel) instead of the Submariner matching diameter of its predecessors that was loved by its die-hard fans as “Sleeper Submariners”.

It is the first Sea-Dweller to feature a Cyclops for its date window; this is simply Rolex being “Rolex”, always innovating, having found a new way for the Cyclops to withstand its 1,220m dive watch capabilities. 

This model comes standard with a helium escape valve and is the entry point in the collection for saturation divers. Its usage of a larger in diameter 43mm 904L Steel case makes it a very legible and usable tool watch, especially underwater. It also allows the watch to disperse its 15mm thickness better without looking too chunky. 

Also, an upgrade is a 22mm wide Oyster bracelet that tapers to 19mm at the Glidelock clasp, making for a better wearing experience. Due to the wider acceptance of gold watches, Rolex offers the Sea-Dweller 43 in a combination variant too, featuring a full black dial and matching bezel. (Retail price $13,250)

Rolex Deepsea 136660

Rolex first introduced the “Deepsea” nameplate back in 2008, an era where larger-sized watches were trending, allowing the brand to fit a monster of a timepiece in its dive-watch lineup, that was the 44mm Deepsea 116660. 

The Deepsea was also a flex on how far the brand was willing and capable of innovating on its original dive watch concept to release a model with a stupendous depth rating of 3,900m, thanks to its Ring-Lock-System, and a larger case.

44mm in diameter and 17.7mm thick, what is most impressive about the Deepsea is the elegant and highly technical feature-packed design that allows itself to be harmonious in proportions, design, and luxury, with its far-less capable and more versatile siblings; therefore allowing it to still be a wearable watch for an average sized wrist. 

The Deepsea is now in its third iteration with the 136660 reference. The 126660 updated model in 2018 featured a shorter lug-to-lug measurement, wider bracelet, and thinner lugs, allowing for better proportions and a better fit on the wrist; it also featured an updated movement with the 3235. 

The 136660, in 2022, had minor adjustments made to the height of the bezel, a “substantial 8% increase” in the size of the date window, and the lack of a flip lock extension. This model comes with a black dial paired with a fully graduated black Cerachrom bezel and is offered with a special D-Blue dial to commemorate James Cameron’s expedition to the bottom of the Mariana trench. (Retail Price $14,200)

Rolex Deepsea Challenge 126067

Rolex’s relentless pursuit to push the envelope within its dive watch segment finally yielded a new production model in 2022, the Deepsea Challenge, with an unworldly 11,000m of water resistance, made to conquer the deepest point known to man.

To achieve such a feat, the new Deepsea Challenge would essentially be a (no-date) bloated version of the now regular Deepsea, using the Ring-Lock-System, with a 50mm diameter case and 23mm of thickness (with 9mm crystal) to endure the elements. To underwhelm its heft and match its capabilities, this is the first model to be made available in “lighter” full titanium (RLX-Titanium), featuring complete brushing and a return to chamfered lugs of old. 

While its large dimensions and niche capabilities will appeal to a smaller target audience, the Deepsea Challenge ensures that Rolex has an offering to match its modern-day capabilities. It is an exercise in tradition from the best dive watchmaker in history to push its limits. This feature-packed diver is for those who seek luxury in novelty. (Retail price $26,000) 

Conclusion

The Submariner and the Sea-Dweller were never meant to be pitted against each other; the Sea-Dweller models are merely an extension of a winning formula that is the iconic Submariner. The Submariner has always set the golden standards in form, function, and refinement for all dive watches to follow. 

Due to this mass appeal, the Submariner can seem boring to the seasoned collector. Therefore the Sea-Dweller and Deepsea models have an identity and history of their own to appeal to their own niche.

The Submariner is a versatile, elegant, and popular choice for the desk diver. The Sea-Dweller range boasts more serious specifications for the saturation diver or for those who simply appreciate the variation, novelty, and fun injected into the lineup.