Category: Rolex

Rolex has solidified its place in the watch industry as the default luxury watch. Proving to be the most prominent brand in terms of market share, the brand’s nickname, “The Crown”, is not baseless. They have produced some of the most iconic watches of the 20th and 21st centuries, such as the Submariner, Explorer, and the GMT-Master. 

Different iterations of these watches have received nicknames from collectors over the years, including the red and black bezeled GMT-Master II referred to as the “Coke” GMT, after the iconic soft drink. 

The Rolex GMT-Master

Even though Rolex is one of the top luxury brands today, its origins were centered around creating watches as practical tools. During World War I, they produced trench watches, some of the first purpose-built wristwatches, and distributed them to armed forces. 

In 1926, they produced their first “Oyster” watch, a watch case that allowed for greater dust and water resistance, ensuring durability in more harsh environments. Famously, they marketed this by putting the watch in tanks of water in shop display windows, and swimmer Mercedes Gleitze swam the English Channel in 1927 with a Rolex Oyster on her wrist. 

Fast forward to the 1950’s and purpose built sports watches became incredibly popular. While dive watches and chronographs usually get most of the attention, global air travel became more accessible and facile, and international commerce became more common. In 1954, Rolex produced the Rolex GMT Master reference 6542. 

The original reference 6542 GMT Master had a 24-hour hand that mirrored the main time and an adjustable 24-hour bezel. The bezel was the only aspect of the watch that allowed for the tracking of an additional time zone. Developed in partnership with PanAm Airlines, the ability to track Greenwich Mean Time of Coordinated Universal Time was necessary for related paperwork, flight tracking, and record keeping. 

The First Rolex “Coke” GMT

In 1983, Rolex released the GMT-Master II reference 16760. Produced alongside the GMT-Master until its discontinuation in the late 1990s, the GMT-Master II introduced the independently adjustable hour hand with the calibre 3085. Now, the main time, 24-hour hand, and bezel could be set separately, allowing the tracking of three timezones.

The 3085 did give up the quick adjust date function to gain the adjustable hour hand. The date on GMT-Master II models is adjusted by adjusting the local hour hand. The original 16760 was nicknamed the “Fat Lady,” due to the extra thickness required by the movement.

It also had a wider case, bezel, and crown. While the case was larger, it was only 100 meters water-resistant, which has been the standard for the GMT-Master II to this day. The 16760 was only available in steel with an Oyster or Jubilee bracelet.

The 16760 was the first GMT-Master model to receive a sapphire crystal, white gold hands, and indices, eventually becoming standard across the entire Rolex lineup. The 16760 had tritium for the lume and was the model that made the Coke bezel iconic, as it was the only colorway available for the reference. 

The End of the “Fat Lady,” Introducing the 16710

The 16760 was replaced by the 16710 when the former ceased production in 1988. The new calibre 3185 inside allowed for the same functions as the 3085 but was much slimmer, allowing the 16710 to have the same form factor as the GMT-Master and the contemporary Submariner at the time. 

Case Comparison

Comparing the two models, the 16760 “Fat Lady” measures 39.14mm wide, excluding the crown, 47.6mm lug-to-lug, and 12.6mm thick. The 16710T (tritium dial) measured 39mm wide, excluding the crown, 47.11mm lug-to-lug, and 12mm thick. Oddly enough, the 16710T is slightly wider, including the crown, measuring 42.19mm wide compared to the 16760’s 42.06mm width, including the crown. 

16710 Models and Evolution

The Rolex GMT-Master II reference 16710 with the “Coke” red and black bezel was produced from 1989 to 2005. Available in stainless steel, this time, the 16710 was available with red and black (16710A), red and blue (16710B), and all-black bezels (16710N), along with both Oyster and Jubilee bracelets. 

Dial Variations

The hands and markers were still made of white gold, with the lume being made of tritium from 1989 to 1997, and were demarcated with the T<25 indications at the bottom of the dial. In 1998, Rolex switched the 16710 to Luminova, with the “Swiss Dial” marking at six o’clock.

Some Luminova models made in 1998 still had the T<25 on the dial. Finally, in 2000, the GMT-Master II received Super-LumiNova for the hands and markers, with a “Swiss-made dial” indicated underneath the six o’clock index. Towards the end of the 16710’s production, there was also the introduction of the “Stick Dial.”

Traditionally, the GMT-Master II had a Roman number two. During the transition period between the 3185 and 3186 movements, Rolex introduced a rare variation where the II was written as two straight lines, hence the nickname. 

Bracelet, Crystal, and Case Evolutions

Another evolution that happened over time was the addition of solid end-links in 2000. In 2003, the laser-etched crown logo into the crystal was added, along with the removal of the lug holes with the late Y-series serial numbers.

In 2007, modern plastic certificates and warranty cards were introduced, along with the upgraded caliber 3186 with the Z and M-series serial numbers, which included the upgrade to a Parachrom hairspring. 

Who is a GMT-Master II For?

Without a doubt, Rolex makes some of the most reliable mechanical watches available. They have become the gold standard in tool-oriented timepieces. If owning a reliable watch capable of tracking multiple time zones is a must, one would likely not go wrong by purchasing a Rolex GMT-Master II of any generation. 

For the 16760 and 16710 references, in particular, they are currently for dedicated collectors of vintage and late model Rolex. While the “Pepsi” variant may be the most famous, the “Coke” bezel was the only bezel available for the 16760.

Additionally, the red and black bezel 16710 continues that tradition. For collectors who like to stay close to the original models, the red and black bezel is the way to go for a GMT-Master II. With the availability of modern Rolex models being inconvenient at best, some first-time Rolex buyers have turned their attention to discontinued and used models.

While current market prices are more than new GMT-Master II models in steel, they are more stable and available than a GMT-Master II at retail. It is impossible to predict future prices, but history suggests prices on discontinued models, especially those several years out, will be relatively stable. 

While there are many potential upsides of any Rolex model, collecting vintage Rolex watches has its downsides. If one is accustomed to modern watches, the character of the bracelets and clasps are markedly different.

16760 and early 16710 Coke bezel GMT Master II watches will have hollow end-links, and all 16760 and 16710 will have stamped clasps, both of which will make the bracelets feel significantly less substantial compared to modern watches.

Additionally, the aluminum bezels are not as scratch and fade-resistant as modern ceramic. Many “Coke” bezels have aged well, as the paint is not as susceptible to fading, but they still will not fare as well as modern ceramic.

A downside of modern ceramic bezels is that they are more likely to shatter with hard impacts and are more costly to replace compared to aluminum, even compared to finding vintage correct OEM aluminum bezels. 

Alternatives to the Rolex Coke GMT

If a Rolex Coke GMT is not in the cards for any number of reasons, but the black and red bezel is appealing, here are some more easily attainable options to consider.

Timex M79 Automatic (ref. TW2U83400ZV)

If the idea of a vintage watch is appealing, and you enjoy the color scheme, but the prices of a vintage Rolex are far from possible, the Timex M79 should be considered. With a thin steel bracelet, aluminum bezel, and lightweight, the Timex M79 will mimic a great deal of the look and feel of a vintage watch.

The two-tone red and black bezel also adds to the vintage appeal. Unfortunately, this model only has the time, day, and date functions, forgoing multi-timezone tracking abilities. The Timex M79 measures 40mm wide, 14.5mm thick, and has an 18mm lug width.

The dial is covered with an acrylic crystal and is rated to 50 meters of water resistance. Inside is a Miyota automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve and can be hand-wound. The Timex M79 delivers in terms of style and budget but is not as durable or functional as other timepieces discussed in this article.

The Timex M79 Automatic retails for $289. 

Davosa Ternos Ceramic GMT “Coke” Bezel (ref. 161.590.90)

The Davosa Ternos Ceramic GMT offers a number of significant upgrades over the Timex M79. Firstly, the Davosa has the multi-timezone functionality the Timex lacks. The SW330 movement inside allows for independent adjustability of the 24-hour hand, making it a “caller” style GMT, making alternate timezones easier to track from home.

Additionally, the Davosa has a water resistance rating of 200 meters, making it more than capable of handling aquatic adventures. The Davosa Ternos Ceramic GMT reference 161.590.90 measures 40mm wide, 47.9mm lug-to-lug, and 12.2mm thick.

The ceramic indication in the name refers to the bezel, adding the red and black color scheme to a ceramic bezel, something Rolex has not done yet. The Davosa Ternos also features a sapphire crystal with magnifying Cyclops for the date window. 

While definitely more premium than the Timex, the Davosa is still significantly more affordable than the Rolex, retailing at $1399.

Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT (ref. BR0393-BL-ST/SCA)

The black and red color scheme has its own appeal, but it is understandable how seeing that scheme in the same shape can become commonplace. The Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT offers something different, presenting a GMT package in the signature Bell & Ross square shape. 

The BR 03-93 GMT measures 42mm wide, 52mm lug-to-lug, 13.5mm thick, and has a 24mm lug width. Inside is the BR-Cal303, based on the ETA 2893-2, offering a 42-hour power reserve and a 28,800 beat rate. 

The dial is covered by a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, and the case offers 100 meters of water resistance. Again, the movement provides quick adjustment of the GMT hour hand, making it a caller-style GMT watch. With its own unique aviation-inspired design, the inspiration of this BR 03-93 GMT reference is clear but manages to have its own character. 

The Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT retails for $4200. 

Steinhart Ocean 39 GMT (ref. 103-1153)

While not original in its design, Steinhart offers a great deal of value for the prices they charge. Measuring 39mm wide and 13mm thick, with a 20mm lug width, this stainless steel watch has an SW330-2 élaboré GMT movement inside, allowing for independent adjustment of the 24-hour hand.

Covering the matte black dial is a sapphire crystal with a date magnifier, and the red and black bezel is made of ceramic. The case is rated to 300 meters of water resistance. Steinhart does offer a variety of options as well, including a jubilee bracelet and a larger 42mm variant.

With that, the case design is quite flat, offering little curvature, making the watch wear a little larger than the dimensions may suggest. Additionally, the clasp, while functionally, is not as advanced as many on the market today. While some brands costing much more use similar clasps, other more affordably priced watches have better clasps.

The Steinhart Ocean 39 GMT retails for around $700.

Squale 30 Atmos Black/Red GMT Ceramica 1545 Coke Bezel

Squale has a storied history of making durable dive watches since the 1950s. Many have more original designs, but others, like the 30 Atmos seen here, stick to more mainstream designs. While clearly very similar to the classic design, the case has broader lugs and a large screw-down crown as distinguishing features.

Additionally, the stick hands and square seconds hand lume pip add their own character. The stainless steel case measures 40mm wide, 20mm lug width, 12.5mm thick, and 47mm lug-to-lug. Inside is either an ETA 2893-2 or Sellita SW330-1, depending on movement availability.

Both movements offer quick adjustment of the GMT hand and a date function. The matte black dial is under a sapphire crystal, and the black and red bezel is made of ceramic. The 30 Atmos refers to the water resistance, meaning the watch is tested to 300 meters. 

The Squale 30 Atmos Black/Red GMT Ceramica retails for $799.

Conclusion

Rolex has undoubtedly been a market leader for decades, especially when it comes to tool-oriented watches. The design of the GMT-Master II has made it the standard in regard to multi-timezone timepieces. The release of the 16760 ensured not only the GMT-Master II’s place in history but also the red and black “Coke” bezel. 

This has made Coke bezel Rolex GMT-Master II watches highly collectible, and their value has continued to represent ongoing demand. Also, the iconic design has been used as a source of inspiration for other watches, both with and without GMT functionality. Whether it is an original Rolex Coke GMT or another watch from another brand, this iconic design has won the hearts of many collectors and surely will for years to come. 

The GMT and Submariner are some of the most popular Rolexes ever – and indistinguishable to some. Despite being almost identical at first glance, they have many different features and fundamental designs for separate audiences. All of which we’ll get into and then finally determine which collection stands out better. 

Before we head in, though, I’ll have you know that neither of these timepieces trumps the other. It’s literally going to be a review that helps you decide which one to get first because you won’t want to miss out on either the GMT or Submariner once you get to know them. 

Let’s get into it. 

Rolex GMT History 

The Rolex GMT-Master II was introduced in 1955 and quickly adopted by Airline pilots. It’s the fruit of Rolex’s stellar marketing prowess and ad campaigns. One of the early ways Rolex pushed the GMT was by partnering with Pan American Airways. 

In their 1969 catalog, Brian Trubshaw was to wear a GMT Master on his record-breaking flight as the first British pilot of Concorde, the fastest commercial airline ever, and also the first female British pilot to take a solo round-the-world flight in a single-engine plane, Sheila Scott. 

It’s safe to say the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master also debuted – and remains – a specialist watch for aviators, ship captains, navigators, world travelers, and pilots. It features a revolving 24-hour outer bezel and a GMT hour hand, which can tell the time for up to three timezones on the earth’s surface.”

The turning point for the GMT Master came in 1982 when a new movement had it renamed the GMT Master II. The new movement set local time without interfering with the GMT seconds or hours – a feature still seen in newer models as is.

A Tale of Two Times 

Rolex released the GMT Master as a two-timezone watch for pilots. The original model featured a 24-hour bezel in blue and red, signifying nighttime and daylight, respectively. This trailblazing bezel was made from plexiglass and replaced in 1959 with anodized aluminum.

Many notable watches, like the Tudor Black Bay 58, still use the aluminum bezel today for a vintage appeal. But Rolex changed the GMT’s bezel to high-tech, scratch-resistant ceramic in 2005. 

The dial is a classic. It debuted and remained the same 40mm black dial with Mercedes hands, multi-shaped markers, and date magnified by Cyclops lens. Safe to say, it didn’t take time until the larger market caught on to its design. 

The dial carries the simple go-to Rolexas design of triangular, round, and baton, hour markers. It has four hands with eye-catching designs: the vintage “Mercedes” hour hand, the minute hand is a sword, the sweep second hand is a syringe, and the 24-hour hand is a red (varies based on model) arrowhead.

Like the Submariner, the GMT also has exceptional legibility, good enough that you can’t tell the difference between the two. This is more impressive when you know the Submariner is built to be readable in pitch darkness underwater. 

Rolex GMT Master II watches are available in Oystersteel and Jubilee bracelets. It’s also the only collection with a polished center link that maximizes this timepiece’s dress appeal. It features a gridlock clasp system for safety and toolless adjustment to easily fit any wrist size. 

Today’s Rolex GMT Master II has evolved into a three-timezone watch. Ultimately, the Rolex watch is built for pilots and frequent travelers who want a statement timepiece or have loved ones in another timezone. 

Rolex Submariner History

Launched in 1953 and famously known for adorning the wrists of adventurers and icons, the Submariner is, interestingly, the first diver’s wristwatch with water resistance up to 100m (330 feet). Rolex pushed its excellence in engineering and R&D improving its resistance to 300 meters (1000 feet) in Submariners in 1979 for the date and ‘89 for the No Date. 

The ref.6200 was the first Submariner to use the now “normal” Mercedes hour hands. It’s both a functional (keeps the hour hand visible when it overlaps with the minute hand) and iconic design. 

Slow your horses down now, though; there’s no affiliation between Rolex and the German automobile manufacturer. It’s rather a nod to the Swiss watchmaker’s first ambassador, Mercedes Gleitze, swimming across the British Channel in the 20s. 

Rolex Submariners also didn’t have their names boldly imprinted in earlier models. Rolex battled for patent rights until the 60s. Needless to say, Submariners have come a long way as the ultimate diving equipment they’ve become today. 

Braving the Deep Seas in Style 

Rolex Submariner is one of the most iconic diver’s wristwatches of all time. Its design has remained largely the same as it was seven decades ago.

As an underwater tool, the Submariner has a corrosion-resistant Cerachrom bezel with a 60-minute graduated scale. Like the GMT, it has knurled (jagged) edges for easy gripping with gloves on, but the Sub has a luminous capsule on the zero marker for legibility underwater. 

The Submariner and GMT share the same face shape dial markers with triangle, baton, and stick hour markers. And a narrower minute sword hand, Mercedes hands, and syringe seconds hand. 

The only glaring difference here is the exception of a 24-hour hand. Also, there are four lines of text on the Sub’s dial, while GMTs only have three. The smoking gun on the Sub is a text saying, “1000ft = 300m.”

It’s also available in Oystersteel, Rolesor, and 18-carat gold. Most, if not all, bust-down models are customized by jewelers. By the way, the entry-level stainless steel models use the 904L Oystersteel, which is in the same class of alloys used for equipment in the aerospace and chemical industries. 

It’s subtle material differences like this that sets Rolex apart from the crowd. One glance at the finishing, and you’ll be blown away. The case back is polished along the sides, giving it a refreshing, reflective finish you’ll appreciate more in person.  

Since 2020, Submariners Dates and No Dates use Rolex’s latest innovation, the Caliber 3235 and 3230, respectively. They are matched equally with the GMT Master II movements for power, accuracy, and durability. 

Rolex GMT vs Submariner: Which One Should You Choose

Considering that this article isn’t based on a personal opinion but an “objective” review of the subtle differences between these two iconic models, I will make a side-by-side comparison of both watches using their classic features as a point of reference. 

With this, you can decide which one suits your fancy and maybe even develop a soft spot for one of them before you walk into the store to try them out. 

I’ll tell you upfront. No watch review or vlog can do justice to how the Rolex GMT or Submariner feels on the wrist. But only you can put a word to it or describe this feeling. But this review will do some justice to some of the world-class craftsmanship you’ll experience. 

Model Options

You have two of the most iconic watch collections to pick from. Which one would you choose a model from? That’s as pretty hard to say. But it’s not impossible to objectively decide which collection has the best model options based on specifications. 

First of all, the GMT Master II beats the Submariner by having a higher number of models in the collection – 12 to 8. But that’s not what I’ll base an argument for best model options on; if that were the case, Rolex’s Datejust would be a better watch. 

However, going by design and engineering, the GMT may just be the winner. All the models are two-toned and stand out as more of a dress watch than an everyday model (even though it’ll absolutely fit that role). 

On the other hand, if you love a simple and fashionable Rolex, the Submariner would do; it’s the more popular of both collections. But there’s a new wave of enthusiasts taking to the GMT for its portability and stylishness.  

Functions

The Rolex GMT Master II and Submariner are simple timepieces with no super complications. Nonetheless, the GMT is slightly more complicated because of its dual time zone function. It combines all the Submariner functions, including center hour, instant date with rapid setting (for date models), and stop seconds with a 24-hour bezel and an independent GMT hand with a rapid setting. 

But the Submariner deservedly has a better water resistance of 300 meters compared to 100 meters of the GMT. While Rolex markets the Submariner as 1mm larger than the GMT, the difference on the face of the watch is way smaller – about 1/4th. It’s closer to 40.6mm than 41mm. 

Build Quality

When you bring Rolex into a conversation, build quality isn’t a question. It’s a fact that all Rolex watches are almost entirely handmade by the most skilled craftsmen and airtight quality control system. 

It takes a year to make one Rolex watch, so judging which one has a better build quality can be far-fetched, even delusional because they’re the same. Instead, I’ll do you one better and share how the workmanship on the GMT Master II and Submariner stand out.

First up is the dial. They both carry an Oystersteel case with a shiny finish on the dial and bezel, regardless of color variations. Some people don’t like this because it makes what’s meant to be a “professional tool watch” appear more “blingy” than “toolsy.” But you know it’s a fake Rolex without some small attention to detail. 

There are “Rolex” inscriptions along the inside walls of the case, which I find attractive. Maybe it’s because my Fossil doesn’t have anywhere near his level of detail. 

Moving on, I’ll bring your attention to a discrepancy that may or may not be important. The Submariner is only slightly bigger than the GMT. For instance, Rolex lists the case diameter as 41mm, but as I’ve pointed out earlier, it’s closer to 40.6mm, while the GMT is 40mm. 

Needless to say, the Submariner has a pronounced lug-to-lug that would be attractive if you like square or bold watches. But I love the more rounded and discrete face of Rolex GMTs.   

Movement

Both watches house truly exceptional movements that are kings in their own right. But technically, the GMT Master collection is more outstanding when you consider their second timezone function. Regardless, I’ll compare the Rolex GMT Master and Submariner Date’s movement for context. 

The most recent GMT Master watches use the Caliber 3285, while current Submariner Date models, like the ref. 126610LN, carry Caliber 3235 movements. They both have 70 hours of power reserve, 31 jewels, 28800 vph frequency, and are chronometer certified (COSC). More so, they are the same size and accurate to +2/-2 seconds a day. The GMT’s only edge is the fact that you can read the time for up to 3 time zones. 

Price & Availability 

Clearly, you can’t just walk into a Rolex store to get a GMT or Submariner or buy one instantly online. All of these are true, to some extent, except the latter. And then there are other factors, such as desirability and rarity. For instance, it’s easier to get a black dial Submariner than it is to find a green “Hulk” Submariner. 

The same idea goes for the Rolex GMT, except they’re even tougher to source if your dealer’s out of stock. Overall, it takes an average of 6-12 months from your trusted retailer to find a GMT or Submariner. But it takes up to 3 years if you ask an authorized dealer with whom you don’t have a good relationship or spending history. 

All in all, the Submariner is relatively easier to buy because of its popularity and lower price than the GMT Master II. But they both have a good resale market. And it’s easy to find a trusted dealer online rather than bank on an authorized dealer for months or years. The only gripe is you may be restricted to the available models if you want a quick sale. 

Value Retention & Investment 

If you’ve been in the game long enough, you’ll know any Rolex watch, down to the cheapest DateJust, is worth the investment. And we can proudly say the same of any Rolex GMT Master II or Rolex Submariner model. 

The Rolex Hulk, for example, was first introduced in 2010 and cost only about $9,000. It was discontinued in 2020 because of the changes to the Submariner collection – notably a bigger case. It was replaced by the Rolex Starbucks with the standard 41mm oyster case. 

Anyhow, it currently costs anywhere from $20,000 to $50,000 for a pre-owned Submariner 1160010LV “Hulk” in mint condition. Likewise, the Rolex GMT 16700 in stainless steel, discontinued in 1999, still costs around $13,000 as of the time of writing this. If that’s not impeccable value retention and worthy investment, I don’t know what is.  

However, limited availability plays a key role here, so I’d analyze recent models starting with the GMT Master II Pepsi Oystersteel in the jubilee bracelet. It officially costs only $10,900 from an authorized dealer but a mint-condition piece can easily sell for over $20,000 in the secondary resale market.

That’s over 100% return on investment for a GMT model watch that’s still in production. Overall, both the GMT Master and Submariner are valuable investment timepieces. You can expect 100% value retention for either of them in mint condition even a decade after purchase. 

Notable Rolex GMT & Submariner Models 

I know I mentioned how the Rolex GMT knocks the Submariner out of the pack when it comes to model options. Let’s take a deeper look into some of these GMT models and, of course, some iconic Submariners the watch enthusiasts can’t get enough of. 

Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” ref. 126710BLRO

The GMT Master II “Pepsi” is one of the most iconic watches ever made. From its popularity among notable users to millions of knockoffs, it’s a must-have (the real deal, of course) for any serious watch collector. 

Its moniker is a nod to its blue and red ceramic bezel, which resembles the official logo of the multinational soda brand. This color variation is one of the most common in the GMT Master II collection for its unmatched beauty and charm. Despite this, it’s not any cheaper or easier to get than other models. 

Rolex GMT-Master II “Batman” ref. 126710BLNR

A “Batman” is simply a GMT Master II with a black and blue bezel. It’s a sought-after Rolex GMT with a black dial and Jubilee or Oyster bracelet with polished center links. The dial and bezel take on a glossy finish like all Rolex sports watches. 

It also uses the same in-house Caliber 3285 with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand like the Pepsi, Root Beer, Meteorite, or any GMT Master II. 

Rolex GMT-Master II “Root Beer” ref. 126711CHN

The Root Beer GMT Master II is a step away from the usual Oystersteel models. It gets its name from the dark orange color of its Everose gold adornment. This precious stone embellishment makes it over $6,000 more expensive than a stainless steel version, with an official price of $16,500. 

Here’s why. While not a full gold bust down, it’s a sublime combination of Everose gold and Oystersteel across notable parts of the timepiece. The two-color (black and red) bezel is gold plated around the knurled edges, and the 24-hour graduations are molded from Everose gold.

Further, the multi-shaped hour markers and hands are also plated with the root-beer colored Everose gold down to the crown. And the normally polished center links are replaced with Everose gold polish to give it a classic Rolex two-tone look.   

Rolex GMT-Master II “Meteorite” ref. 126719BLRO

Here’s another GMT Master with a dazzling case and dial. The Meteorite is the closest thing to a bust down in the GMT collection, and the most precious ornament isn’t your typical precious stone. It features an 18-karat white gold case and a diamond-like “meteorite” dial.

Rolex drew inspiration for the idea from the metallic patterns of the core of an asteroid – space rock – as it cools down upon entry into Earth. And they made the dial out of an actual piece of meteorite – the Gibeon meteorite. 

This is the only model of the GMT Master II with this dial. And you bet it’s the most expensive, with an official retail price point of $42,900. The Meteorite is understandably more precious on the pre-owned market costing anywhere from $35,000 to $300,000.

There’s a slightly cheaper ($40,600) variation with a Midnight Blue dial instead, but the same white gold case. It debuted at an average of $33,000 in 2019 and now costs $40,600.  

Rolex Submariner Date ref. 126610LN

This is the go-to Submariner for collectors and icons who want a piece of the classic Diver watch. It’s in an Oystersteel case with a black-on-black bezel and dial combo giving it a simple yet bold and fashionable look, especially with its gloss finish. 

The 126610LN uses the Rolex Caliber 3235 movement and Triplock triple waterproof screw-down crown for up to 300 meters of water resistance. I don’t see many Submariner owners diving in one, but it’s good to know that it’s a fully-capable underwater tool. As of 2020, this Rolex Submariner cost only $8,250 but is now worth $10,250 at retail price. 

Rolex Submariner No Date ref. 124060

As the name of the dateless Submarine implies, it’s a typical all-black Submariner without a date window on the dial. But it’s just as beautiful and valuable as the Date option. The only technical difference is it uses a different movement: caliber 3230. 

The No Date has the same build and resale value. The official retail price rose from $7,700 in 2020, during its launch, to $9,100 as of writing (2023). 

Rolex Submariner “Starbucks” ref. 126610LV

This is an upgrade to the OG Submariner Kermit, which debuted in 2003. Aside from a longer case than the Kermit, the 2020 Submariner Starbucks houses a more efficient in-house Caliber 3235. 

It’s a two-colored Submariner in Oystersteel case, a green ceramic bezel, and a black dial. 

While the Starbucks is bigger and better, the Kermit is a great investment due to limited supply (discontinued) and a steady increase from collectors on never-ending waitlists. The most precious Kermit collectible is the 16610LV Mark 1, a 50th-anniversary model costing over $40,000. 

The Submariner Starbucks is still in production and is also difficult to get. It currently has around seventy percent return on investment on the second-hand market at the official $10,800 retail price.  

Rolex Submariner “Bluesy” ref. 126613LB

This is arguably the most beautiful Sub ever made. It’s essentially a two-tone Rolex Submariner with a dazzling blue dial and bezel. The dial is polished with a sunburst finish, yellow gold markers, and hands that are eye candy every moment you look down at the timepiece.

The yellow gold adornment also trickles around the edges and graduations of the blue ceramic bezel. It maintains the 41mm case of modern-day Submariners but is enhanced with yellow gold polish down the center and center links. 

It also uses the latest Rolex Caliber 3235 movement with 70 hours of power reserve. Since its release in 2020 at a starting retail price of $13,600 it has leaped to $15,600 about three years later. So it’s safe to say price rises year by year. 

Final Thoughts

When you try any of these watches out, picking one over the other is tough. And it almost always becomes a matter of which one you should buy first. Most time boiling down to budget, availability, or if a second time zone matters to you as much as diving depth. But, when it comes to design and build excellence, it’s a tie between the Rolex Submariner and Rolex GMT Master II. 

Generally, I love functional and dressy timepieces that suit my style. I particularly love small-faced but complicated watches, and the GMT Master II perfectly fits that category for me. 

It has a 40mm case and partially polished center link bracelet compared to the stocky 41mm of the Submariner. And the second timezone function seals the deal. I love how I can adjust my subconscious to the time of a loved one overseas as I pass the day. 

How you pick a GMT Master II or Submariner is your choice. They have the same attention to detail and world-class Rolex workmanship that makes a statement and are equally “hot” investment purchases promising a tremendous resale value. 

Rolex isn’t exactly known for big watches. Their style is conservative and timeless. For most of their history, many of their men’s watches topped out at 36mm in size. In recent years they’ve added some 40mm plus case sizes to accommodate the larger case trends demanded by the public. 

In this article, we’ll explore collections like their robust Deepsea, which has been used on record-setting dives in the deepest parts of the world’s oceans, to their sporty Yacht-Master II, which tracks sailboat race records on the surface.

About Oversized Rolex Watches

Gone are the days of exclusively smaller men’s case sizes of 34mm and 36mm. Of course, Rolex still offers those, but they’ve now expanded to offer plenty of 40mm-42mm sizes and beyond for most of their collections. From the Datejust workhorse to the iconic Submariner Date to the Explorer II and the Sky-Dweller, there are now many Rolex watches between 41mm and 42mm.

If you’re looking to go even larger, Rolex has collections to accommodate those needs. The Yacht-Master II is 44mm, and the Deepsea Challenge is a beastly 50mm. Rolex offers a wide variety of timepiece sizes, all with unique features to suit every conceivable need and interest. 

Should You Get An Oversized Rolex?

Some simply have a larger frame or bigger build and feel more comfortable with an appropriately proportional timepiece. Others are looking for a statement piece that will be noticed. Yet others are simply looking for features and capabilities that tend to come in larger packages. Whatever the reason, Rolex has a lot of excellent oversized models to consider.

The Best Oversized Rolex Watches 

ROLEX DATEJUST 41MM WHITE DIAL (REF. 126334)

The Datejust is known as Rolex’s workhorse. The timepiece features a classic style that hasn’t changed much since it was first introduced in 1945. The original had a 36mm case and that’s been the size for most of its history; however, in recent years, the case has been enlarged to accommodate modern watch trends. 

Model 126334, the current model, has a combination of Oystersteel and white gold case that measures 41mm. There are many ways to customize this watch, with various materials, dial colors, some textured, and some layouts with Roman numbers and diamonds. 

The one we’ve selected has a crisp white dial with white gold hands and indices. There’s a magnified ‘Cyclops’ date window at 3 o’clock. The timepiece can be fitted with either a smooth, understated bezel or the dressier fluted bezel. The one we’ve profiled here is fluted.

Powering the watch is Rolex’s in-house caliber 3235 automatic movement, which has a power reserve of 70 hours. This is a highly accurate, modern movement within -2/+2 seconds per day. It has a screw-down crown and is water-resistant to 100 meters. 

The timepiece can be fitted with either the more casual Oyster, three 3-link bracelet, or the dressier 5-link Jubilee bracelet. Both have secure folding Oyster clasps and 5mm comfort extensions to find one’s perfect fit. The one we’ve profiled here has the Jubilee. 

Price: $10,500 

ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL 41MM CELEBRATION MOTIF (REF. 124300)

The Oyster Perpetual Celebration is a new Rolex model that’s created quite a stir in the industry. Historically, Rolex designs tend to be classic. As a result, they’re thought of as a watch brand marketed to a more mature clientele. This timepiece says I’m a serious, successful person who can afford a Rolex and appreciate the finer things, but I don’t take myself too seriously. 

It all started in 2020 when Rolex released their 36mm Oyster Perpetual with several new colorful lacquer dials and added some new sizes to the collection. The bright colors included candy pink, green, yellow, coral red, and turquoise. 

The latest celebration motif incorporates all those dial colors into bubbles of various sizes, lined in black and set against a ‘Tiffany blue’ backdrop. The simple, three-hand watch has matching white gold lined hands and indices. 

The OP comes in five different sizes, from 28mm up to 41mm, but you can only get the celebration dial in the 31mm, 36mm, and 41mm cases. The one we’re profiling here is the largest case size, as that’s the driving point of the article. 

Like all steel Rolexes, the case is made from only the highest quality, corrosion-resistant, 904L stainless steel. The case and smooth fixed bezel are polished, and the timepiece is fitted with an Oyster bracelet and clasp with 5mm micro extensions. 

The watch has a screw-down crown and is water-resistant to 100 meters. It’s powered by Rolex’s in-house 3230 automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve, which is a nice upgrade over the movement included in the smaller-sized versions, under 36mm. 

Price: $6,400 

ROLEX SUBMARINER DATE 41MM (REF. 126610LN)

The Submariner is one of the most recognizable and celebrated collections from Rolex. The Submariner has a rich history as a tool watch with military divers during the Second World War and professional divers. There’s an effortless cool factor to its simple design. It’s not one of the flashy timepieces begging to be noticed, but there’s a heft to its presence on the wrist. 

Made from the highest quality materials, this is a watch that is not only useful and tasteful but is tough and durable, sure to last generations. Filmmaker and explorer James Cameron has recounted how he wore his Submariner Date during his deep-sea voyages to view the sunken wreckage of the Titanic, and it was also on his wrist when he received his Oscars for the film Titanic.

The stainless steel case measures 41mm and is complemented by a polished black ceramic unidirectional bezel. The black lacquered dial is clean and easy to read, with a bright lume that shines in the dark. The hands and indices are lined in white gold, and there’s a Cyclops date window at three o’clock. 

The timepiece is powered by Rolex’s caliber 3235 automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve. It features a screw-down crown with Triplock triple waterproofness and is water resistant to 300 meters. It’s fitted with a 3-link Oyster bracelet with a folding Oysterlock safety clasp and a Glidelock extension system.

Price: $10,250 

ROLEX EXPLORER II 42MM WHITE DIAL (REF. 226570-0001)

Rolex bills the Explorer II as the watch of choice for speleologists (cave study), volcanologists (volcano study), and polar explorers. It’s easy to see why with the timepiece’s toughness and usefulness, particularly with its tools to distinguish day from night. 

One thing I like about the Explorer II’s design is its brushed steel bezel. Once popular in the ‘70s, that style has fallen out of vogue with most wristwatches in favor of ceramic bezels. Ceramic bezels are ideal, but this is just one design feature that makes this model stand out. 

The stainless steel case of the timepiece measures 42mm. The all-steel design gives it a rugged look. This, combined with its fresh white dial, gives off arctic explorer vibes and brings to mind icy waters and deep caverns. 

The hands and indices are lined in black, except for the orange 24-hour hand. There’s a Cyclops date window at three o’clock. The dial features a long-lasting blue lume for those dark times spent spelunking or perhaps just exploring the city’s nightlife. This, along with a fixed bezel with 24-hour graduations, allows for distinguishing between night and day. 

The timepiece is powered by the caliber 3285 in-house automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve. The watch has hacking seconds for precise timing. It has a water resistance of up to 100 meters and is fitted with a 3-link Oyster bracelet. 

Price: $9,650 

ROLEX SKY-DWELLER 42MM (REF. 336934-0006)

The Rolex Sky-Dweller has always looked like an enlarged Datejust to me, and it’s packed with lots of additional features like a dual timezone display and an annual calendar. The latest version looks even more like Datejust with the inclusion of the Jubilee bracelet. 

The Oystersteel and white gold case measures 42mm, sits at 14mm on the wrist, and is 50.4mm lug-to-lug. This timepiece is made for larger wrists, 16cm and above. It’s broad and thick but still fits under a dress cuff because of its slopped design. 

The watch has a presence on the wrist but isn’t too overpowering. It has a striking bright blue sunburst dial with an off-center 24-hour wheel. The hands and indices are lined in white gold, and there’s a magnified date window at 3 o’clock.

The signature fluted bezel features the Ring Command System, allowing the wearer to control each of the watch’s functions separately, with the turn of the bezel, in conjunction with the turn of the crown. 

The timepiece is powered by the caliber 9002 automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve and is water resistant to 100 meters, as noted by the line under the coronet on the crown. All this is paired with the 5-link steel Jubilee bracelet that offers a refined dressy look with its satin and polished finishes while also serving as a durable sports bracelet.

Price: $15,900 

ROLEX YACHT-MASTER 42MM RLX TITANIUM (REF. 226627)

The Yacht-Master shares similar looks with its Submariner Date sibling, but a few design cues distinguish it. First, there’s the look of titanium, with its darker, silver-gray tone. Then there’s the matte black bezel, in contrast to the Submariner’s shiny bezel.

This watch is made from RLX grade 5 titanium. Unlike some lower-grade titanium, this unique blend allows Rolex to offer contrasting satin and polished surfaces that give the watch a more cultured look. This makes it so light you’ll almost doubt it’s an authentic Rolex.

But that’s exactly what’s required in sailing, where every ounce of weight matters. For the enthusiast, it also simply makes for a comfortable wearing experience. The timepiece is powered by Rolex’s 3235 automatic movement with its 70-hour power reserve.

It’s water resistant to 100 meters and is fitted with a 3-link Oyster titanium bracelet with an Oysterlock safety clasp and the Easylink 5mm comfort extension. The price is a steep climb from the Submariner, but if one is a true yacht master, that shouldn’t be a problem. 

Price: $14,050 

ROLEX SEA-DWELLER 43MM (REF. 126600-0002)

The Sea-Dweller is a collection of professional diver’s watches, first released by Rolex in 1967 and originally known as the Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000. The early models were created in partnership with the French diving company Comex (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises). 

While similar in design to the Submariner, the Sea-Dweller has always been a larger and thicker timepiece, as necessitated by the materials and features needed to endure extreme depth dives, such as a more rugged case construction and a helium escape valve (HEV). 

The current model has a stainless steel case made of Rolex’s famous 904L steel and measures 43mm. The watch sits at 15.5mm on the wrist and measures 21mm in lug width. The unidirectional rotatable bezel features a Creachrom insert, a platinum-coated ceramic made by Rolex that’s scratchproof and unaffected by ultraviolet light.

The black bezel has a nice sheen and a strong, enduring blue lume for legibility in the deep. The black dial, its hands, and indices look nearly identical to the Submariner Date. It now even features a Cyclops date window at 3 o’clock, which is a relatively recent addition since 2017. 

The timepiece is powered by Rolex’s caliber 3235 automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve. Features included are hacking seconds and instantaneous date. The watch has high-performance shock absorbers and is water-resistant to 1,220 meters. All this is paired with a 3-link Oyster bracelet with a folding Oysterlock clasp and Rolex’s Gridlock extension system.

Price: $13,250 

ROLEX YACHT-MASTER II 44MM (REF. 116680-0002)

The Yacht-Master II was first introduced in 2007, which exhibited a regatta chronograph. The complex movement allows for a programmable countdown timer used in competitive sailing events. 

The ocean blue bezel, with its gear-link edge, features the Ring Command System, as explored with the Sky-Dweller; however, this one works in coordination with the regatta chronograph, as mentioned above. 

The large Oystersteel case measures 44mm, sits at 14mm on the wrist, and has a lug width of 21mm. The white dial, with its blue outlined regatta wheel, tracks from 1 to 10 minutes, and the smaller sub wheel at 6 o’clock tracks the seconds, up to 60. 

The timepiece is fitted with Rolex’s caliber 4161 automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve. It features hacking seconds and a programmable countdown with mechanical memory and synchronization. The watch is water resistant to 100 meters and is paired with a three-link Oyster bracelet with a 5mm comfort extension.

Price: $18,700 

ROLEX DEEPSEA 44MM (REF. 136660-0003)

The Rolex Deepsea is a remarkable feat of engineering. In 2012 filmmaker and explorer James Camron set a record-breaking solo dive in the Mariana Trench, which reaches a depth of 36,000 feet (10,972 meters). Located in the Pacific Ocean, this is the deepest point in the world’s oceans and one that has been relatively unexplored.

Rolex made a special watch for this dive, which could reach such depths, and later produced the Deepsea to commemorate the accomplishment. The Oystersteel case of the Deepsea measures 44mm, sits on the wrist at 17.7mm thick, and is 51.8mm lug-to-lug.

The gradient dial, which goes from blue to the black of the deep, celebrates Cameron’s journey and remarkable accomplishment. It has the same kind of black Cerachrom bezel reviewed with the Sea-Dweller. 

Under the hood is Rolex’s caliber 3235 automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve. It has instantaneous date and hacking seconds. The crystal is domed and measures 5.5mm thick. There’s a screw-down Triplock triple crown to enhance waterproofness.

The timepiece is rated to withstand depths of 3,900 meters and includes a helium escape value. All this is paired with the durable 3-link Oyster bracelet and the extension system to fit over a wetsuit. This is a substantial watch that has advanced the boundaries of deep-sea exploring. 

Price: $14,460 

ROLEX DEEPSEA CHALLENGE 50MM (REF. 126067)

The Deepsea Challenge is a beast! I once purchased a 50mm watch in the ignorance of my youth, when the trend in watches was the bigger, the better, and apparently, I had something to prove. 

Some thought it was cool; many commented that it looked like I was wearing a wall clock. The crown was so big and protruding that it rubbed a callous into my skin. I don’t expect a broad market for this watch, but I don’t think that matters to Rolex. This was about setting new standards in the capabilities of a diver’s watch, and they did just that. 

As noted above, the Deepsea was created to commemorate James Cameron’s record-setting dive. But, the experimental watch made for that dive, which was attached to the outside of his diving equipment, was made from 904L steel and far too heavy for anyone to wear. 

This version, the Deepsea Challenge, is made from RLX grade 5 titanium, just like the Yacht-Master. This material change made it 30% lighter than the experimental watch and thus possible to wear. 

The titanium case measures 50mm, sits on the wrist at a whopping 23mm in height (no, this isn’t sliding under your dress shirt), and is 61mm from lug to lug. Like the standard Deepsea, it’s powered by the same 3235 automatic movement. 

This one includes Rolex’s Ringlock system with a nitrogen-alloyed steel ring and helium escape value. Of course, it also includes a screw-down Triplock triple waterproof system and is capable of water resistance ratings of 11,000 meters. All this is paired with a titanium bracelet that offers 7mm of extension. 

Price: $25,950 

Parting Thoughts

Whether you’re simply in the market for a fine luxury sports watch that accommodates a larger wrist, or you need something with incredible capabilities and features under the sea, on the surface, or in the sky, Rolex has some smashing models which answer the call. 

Whether you’re a Marvel or a DC fan (or not into comic book heroes at all), you will have undoubtedly come across Rolex’s iconic Batman and Batgirl watches on your horological adventures. 

These two GMT Master II models, which are the ultimate Rolex tribute to the Dark Knight and his bold feminine counterpart, have definitively colored black and blue bezels that can be spotted miles away by even the least-keen eye. Thus, they’ve become polarising components of the watch world. 

While both models share some similarities, their intricacies set them apart. While the Batman exudes masculinity with its black and blue bezel, the Batgirl is a stunning representation of a slightly softer approach to the timepiece. Let’s explore the nuances of each watch and find out which one is the right match for you.

The Dark Knight Timer – The Rolex Batman

The Batman, as the name suggests, pays homage to the iconic comic book character and his signature colors of black and blue. Now, it should be noted that this isn’t Rolex’s intention, but rather (like all nicknames applied to Rolex watches), the Batman moniker is the result of the public’s reaction to the watch. After all, a superhero name is far catchier than a reference number…

This particular version of the GMT Master II (1167010BLNR) was first introduced in 2013 and became a fast favorite amongst watch collectors and enthusiasts. It quickly turned into one of Rolex’s most sought-after watches due to its unique color scheme and functionality.

As mentioned, the standout feature of the Batman is its bi-directional rotating bezel, which is crafted from scratch-resistant ceramic and has a 24-hour display, lending credence to the GMT functionality of the watch. 

The black and blue combination is relentlessly striking, and the stark blue color is achieved using Rolex’s patented Cerachrom technology. The Cerachrom bezel is not only incredibly durable but also retains its color and shine over decades (perhaps even centuries), adding to the unit’s overall value and collector appeal.

The original Batman was powered by Rolex’s in-house Calibre 3186 movement, which is COSC-certified and ensures exceptional accuracy. The watch also has a power reserve of approximately 48 hours, making it reliable and practical for everyday wear but perhaps not perfect for a swap-out watch that you’ll slip on once a week (unless you’ve got a watch winder, which you should have).

Thanks to its GMT function, Rolex’s GMT Master II range is perfect for globetrotters who frequent different time zones, and it’s equally appealing to collectors who appreciate the unique color combination and the insinuated Batman theme. 

Although, I think that most people who buy this watch will do so because it’s a higher-end Rolex model with some edge, by way of its hues, that will speak to the personal tastes of prospective buyers, as opposed to the average watch enthusiast looking for a ‘walk around’ watch. Make no mistake, this isn’t a watch for everyone, regardless of how thick your wallet may be. The Batman requires – or demands – a certain degree of panache from its owner.

Queen of the Cave – The Rolex Batgirl

Rolex opened the curtain on the GMT Master II Batgirl 126710BLNR in 2019 and, in doing so, reinvigorated the Batman’s popularity in the luxury market in a way that few people could have predicted. And all this from what was ostensibly just a movement update and bracelet swap on an old darling of modern horology. 

Given that the Batgirl is practically identical to the Batman, except for a few very minor differences, which I’ll get to later, one could be forgiven for wondering why so much fuss has been made about this model at all.

Well, there are two reasons to be excited about the Batgirl, with the more obvious being its Jubilee bracelet, a five-link metal bracelet introduced in 1945 to celebrate Rolex’s 40th anniversary. The Jubilee bracelet adds a touch of elegance and femininity to the watch, making it perfect for women who appreciate both the technical and aesthetic aspects of a timepiece and for men who are after something that balances strength and sensitivity.

The second major update to the more recent BLNR GMT Master II is the movement. In place of the 3186 Calibre, Rolex rolled out their all-new, in-house Calibre 3285 movement, which is obviously also COSC-certified, offering all of the reliability and precision of its predecessor, with an increased power reserve of approximately 70 hours. 

This added functionality certainly warrants the release hype of the Batgirl, as does the fact that its bracelet moves it into an entirely new design paradigm. However, what inherent meaning does an all-new name designation for such a release hold, and what are the other comparative advantages of the latest iteration of the GMT Master II BLNR over the original release?

Batman Vs Batgirl – Who Should Win a Place on Your Arm?

I have an admission to make – the title of this article creates the impression that only two watches are being compared here, and while that is mostly true, it’s not technically the whole truth. In fact, there are officially three versions of the GMT Master II BLNR timepiece, and although we’ll be honing in on the two main players, there is a third contender that will sneak under the radar from time to time. 

The watch I’m referring to is the latest release of the Batman, which is in every way identical to the original but with an updated movement that matches the Batgirl’s internal workings. Bear that in mind moving forward – when I refer to the ‘original’ Batman, I’m talking about a watch that was manufactured from 2013 to 2019. Now, with that out of the way, let’s get into some detailed comparisons between our two leads.

Appearance

It doesn’t take a superhero to crack open the case of the Batman and the Batgirl’s shared features. From even a cursory glance, it’s all too apparent that these models have several characteristics in common, namely their 40mm Oystersteel cases and the GMT function (which is denoted by the extra, large-arrow-tipped hand), as well as the half-and-half, black and blue 24-hour bezel. 

The bezel is complemented by a black dial, which features luminescent markers and hands, a running seconds hand, and a date window that lies below Rolex’s signature Cyclops lens. Both cases are made of 904L Oystersteel, which meets the flat sapphire crystal glass with a degree of accuracy that makes the fissure almost imperceptible.

The GMT Master II BLNR, however, received some major updates upon its (re)release in 2019, which saw the watch unveiled on Rolex’s slightly less masculine, far more dressy jubilee bracelet, a five-link binding with polished central links that is a polarising contrast to the sporty professionalism of the GMT Master II watch itself. 

Although many people may be fans of the jubilee bracelet as a standalone item, or especially as the fastening on other well-known and perhaps more fitting Rolex models such as the ever-sexy Day-Date, I can’t help but feel as though the Batman’s Oyster bracelet is a more appropriate partner for this watch. 

There’s something about its simple, unaffected robustness that contributes a great deal of vigor to the entire package without detracting at all from the main focal points of the case. Unlike the Jubilee, the 3-link Oyster bracelet demands no attention for itself, happily and dutifully directing all audiences towards its master’s face.

However, one thing to be said for the case of the Jubilee is the unavoidable truth that it is a more comfortable bracelet. Perhaps that’s all that’s needed to convince you of its necessity. Thus the Batgirl is, without a doubt, more easy-wearing than her masculine predecessor, which means a great deal to frequent flyers who would buy this watch for its intended GMT use.

Movement

The (original) Rolex Batman is run by the Calibre 3186 movement, which is a self-winding mechanical movement that has been in production since 2005. This movement features Rolex’s usual suspects on sports watches, including but not limited to a Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers, enhancing the watch’s accuracy and durability. 

It should be said that Rolex’s proprietary Parachrom hairspring is not only anti-magnetic and more resistant to temperature changes but also roughly 10 times more accurate than traditional hairsprings when shocked. These are geeky stats that beg to be flaunted.

Being a GMT movement, it also features a 24-hour hand, which can be independently set from the main time display to track a second timezone. With 31 jewels and a running frequency of 4Hz or 28,800 vibrations per hour, time runs smoothly on the dial of Batman, and I can’t say that I’d want much more from a movement than what one gets from the 3186. 

Since 2015, every Rolex GMT Master II watch has been equipped with the Calibre 3285, which ensures a precision rating of -2/+2 seconds per day. This accuracy level is twice as rigorous as the parameters set by the COSC for a mechanical chronometer wristwatch. 

This is one of the upsides available with the Batgirl, the other being its extended power supply – compared to the Batman’s (rather generous) 48-hour backup, the 3285 movement boasts an ample 70-hour reserve, meaning you’ll likely never have to worry about running out of juice. 

The 3285 also features a Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers but has been further improved with a new Chronergy escapement, which is responsible for the aforementioned increased reserve.

Both the Calibre 3186 and Calibre 3285 movements are manufactured entirely in-house by Rolex and are COSC certified, ensuring their accuracy and precision. The Calibre 3186 movement has a long history and has been featured in many iconic Rolex models, including the GMT Master II and the Explorer II but has now been entirely phased out of production by Rolex to be replaced by the more efficient Calibre 3285 movement. 

Make no mistake – while the 3186 and 3285 movements share some similarities, the latter is a more advanced and refined version. It stands to be said, though, that both movements are a testament to Rolex’s excellence in their field and that anyone fortunate enough to wear either should thank the gods of horology every day for their luck.

Price & Availability

Both the Rolex Batman and Rolex Batgirl are highly sought-after models, and as such, they can be difficult to come by. These watches have a retail price of around $9,700 (the Jubilee bracelet is a touch more expensive), but due to their popularity, they can often be found selling for much higher prices on the secondary market. More on this shortly. 

As with almost all new Rolex watches, it will require a great deal of patience, luck, or both, to obtain a new Batman or Batgirl from the Rolex factory. Like the GMT Master II ‘Pepsi’, another fan-favorite among collectors, the Batman and Batgirl iterations of this watch are highly sought after, and thus, waitlists for a new BLNR timepiece can run up to 2 years.

Let that settle in, and remember that only the most special kind of desire is capable of transcending a 24-month wait. Thankfully, Rolex recently launched an aftermarket program that allows customers to purchase used watches directly from the brand. This is an excellent (and sensible) option for those who want to ensure they get a genuine timepiece under warranty without waiting an eternity to do so.

However, the program often has limited availability of certain models and isn’t accessible across the globe, so bear that in mind. If you’re interested in buying a second-hand Batman or Batgirl, prices can vary widely based on the watch’s condition, age, and rarity.

The first-release Batman with its original box and papers up to anywhere from $17,000 to $22,000, depending on its condition and service history. A second-hand Batgirl can be found for roughly the same amount.

Value Retention & Investment

This may be the section that many of you scrolled down to read, and in this economy, who could blame you? It’s no secret that luxury watches are being purchased more and more as investments as opposed to just being rewarding accessories or status symbols. 

It’s also almost a given that Rolex stands shoulder-to-shoulder with a glaringly small amount of watchmakers at the tip of the investment needle (I won’t use the word ‘pyramid’, for obvious reasons) in terms of manufacturing iconic watches that not only retain their value but increase in value, sometimes exponentially, over time. 

Both the Batman and the Batgirl have shown impressive value retention over the years, which contributes greatly to the excessive demand for them on the secondary market. The Batman, with its striking black and blue bezel, was officially priced at under $10,000 upon its 2013 release and now goes for an average of about $18,000. 

Although to get an unworn 116710BLNR, you’d be more likely to pay around $20,000 – more than double the original listing price. The Batman’s relative rarity, combined with its popularity, has made it a desirable item for collectors, resulting in prices significantly higher than its original retail price.

The Batgirl, released in 2019, is a newer model and hasn’t been on the market for as long as the Batman. However, it has shown signs of ridiculously strong value retention, with prices on the secondary market already coming in at approximately twice Rolex’s official asking price. 

Given that the luxury watch market has grown rapidly over recent years, this is no surprise. Coupled with the scarcity of new Rolex models due to the global supply-chain issues with which we’re all too familiar, the Batgirl is kicking proverbial ass on the investment front and indeed, if you’d bought one in 2019, you’d be able to sell that and, provided you’ve got the patience of a monk, afford two new BLNR models with your profits.

Ultimately, when it comes to investing in watches, it’s important to consider the rarity, condition, and history of each piece. Both the Batman and the Batgirl are excellent investments due to their popularity and limited production. 

However, it’s important to note that the value of any investment can fluctuate and that there are never any guarantees – we’re looking at a rather volatile market, comparatively speaking. No one knows when the taste for these watches could diminish enough to negatively affect their prices, but I, for one, still think that now more than ever, a professional Rolex is a great investment, especially as it looks much better than a government bond.

Other Notable Rolex GMT Master II Models

I’ve seen some incredible timepieces in my day, but few hold a candle to the casually sporty Rolex GMT Master II. A true icon in the world of horology, it’s beloved by collectors and enthusiasts alike. 

It’s only right, therefore, that we take a quick look at some of the most notable Rolex GMT Master II watches, each of which has as storied and intriguing a history as the BLNR range of timepieces that we’ve been looking at here.

Rolex GMT Master II “Pepsi”

The ‘Pepsi’ GMT Master II is a timeless classic that has become an icon of the Rolex brand. With its signature blue and red bezel, this ultra-recognizable piece is a nod to the brand’s aviation heritage. 

As with all current GMT Master II watches, it’s powered by the 3285, with a -2/+2 seconds per day rating. Originally designed for pilots in the 1950s, the GMT Master II became a favorite among travelers and adventurers alike. Today, the Rolex Pepsi GMT Master II is considered one of the most desirable watches in the world.

Rolex GMT Master II “Root Beer”

Rolex’s ‘Root Beer’ GMT Master II is the only watch here to be released in more than one color variant under the same name, with the 126711CHNR being a graphic step away from its predecessors, whose bezels were brown and gold, as opposed to the newer Root Beer’s black and brown bezel. 

The watch was first introduced in the 1970s and has undergone several updates and revisions over the years. The Root Beer GMT Master II is a versatile watch that can be worn in various settings, from the boardroom to the beach. Its somewhat unconventional color scheme makes it an acquired taste, but given its popularity, Rolex knew something we didn’t from the very beginning of the Root Beer’s tenure on their roster.

Rolex GMT Master II “Sprite”

Rolex introduced the latest addition to the GMT Master II lineup, the ‘Sprite’, in 2022. This GMT wristwatch has the same black dial as the rest of the family, coupled with a striking green and black bezel, both quintessential colors in the Rolex palette.

Despite the novelty pairing of these colors on a bezel, that’s not the focus of the Rolex fan club’s fevered attention. It’s this: the Sprite GMT Master II is the Swiss giant’s first left-handed timepiece. Not only has the crown been shifted to the opposite side, but the date window has also been moved.

The Sprite’s unconventional design has sparked a debate among Rolex enthusiasts, and we’ll see whether this is a trendsetter or the beginning and end of a quietly quirky idea. Whatever happens, you can’t hold it against Rolex for trying – lefties deserve good watches, too!

The Good Guys Win Again

In all honesty (yes, I know this sounds like quintessential fence-sitting), both the Rolex Batman and Batgirl are top-notch watches with visual appeal that no other timepiece can match. They’re strong, pinpoint-accurate, well-finished, and luxuriously fitting on any wrist.

It’s important to note that while these watches are widely coveted and, therefore, can be quite expensive, they also have a strong history of remaining expensive, which is good for your peace of mind and peace of…wallet. Ultimately, whether you’re a fan of the Dark Knight or the She-Bat, the Rolex GMT Master II BLNR range is an excellent choice for watch enthusiasts looking for a high-quality and stylish timepiece.

My personal preference is for the updated Batman 126710BLNR, but whether you choose the subtle arbiter of class on a Jubilee bracelet or the robustly sporty original, you’ll be bowled over by the unapologetic aesthetic and endless reliability of these watches.