Category: Rolex

Timeless and iconic design. Rugged reliability and comfort on the wrist. The pursuit of timekeeping excellence and a marketing machine spanning fields as varied as scientific research, film, and sport. These are the hallmarks of the Rolex brand and the foundation for which its product remains the premier Swiss luxury watchmaker.

In its over 100 years of history since its founding by Hans Wilsdorf in the early 20th century (comparatively young by watchmaker standards), Rolex as a brand has become the market-leading powerhouse with many innovations, historic firsts, and iconic model lines under its belt. 

From the first water and dustproof “oyster” case in 1926 to the “perpetual” self-winding rotor patented in 1931, the focus on rugged timepieces which could withstand the rigor of everyday life set them on course to standardizing what would eventually become today’s “sport watch” genre. In 1953, the “Oyster Perpetual Submariner” is revealed.

About the Rolex Submariner

2025 marks the 71th Anniversary of the Rolex Submariner. Debuting in 1953, though not the first of its kind (Blancpain released their Fifty Fathoms diver watch nearly 10 months prior), the reference 6204 “Submariner” was a true tool watch intended for a specific purpose: scuba diving. 

In the Post World War II era of the early 1950s, thanks to technological advancements made in the years during the war, recreational diving was experiencing a boom. Yet divers needed a way to time their dives to ensure a safe ascent. Ascend too fast, and you face the risk of decompression sickness (which could result in death).

Stay down too long, and you might not have enough air to ensure a timely ascent. However, technology was limited at the time, and the recreational diver relied on simple tools such as depth gauges and decompression tables. The dive watch was then the perfect solution for measuring time. 

Rolex Submariner Characteristics

So what makes a Rolex Submariner? As a dive watch, there are three important factors for utility (Note: we won’t touch ISO 6425 dive watch standards here): Water resistance, a rotating bezel, and legibility.

Water resistance is self-explanatory (you don’t want water to flood your watch when diving), and even the ref. 6204 featured 100m of water resistance back in 1953 (300m being the standard for modern Submariners today).

A rotating bezel, operated by aligning the bezel pip to the minute hand upon the start of your timing interval, allows for accurate timing of your dive. The Submariner’s bezel displays 60 minutes along the full circumference, with hashed-out individual minute marks from 0 to 15, post-1957 (ref. 6536/1).

And finally, legibility, through luminous dial markers, hands, and lume pip, ensures the user can clearly see the watch underwater in various lighting conditions. 

The Submariner’s now iconic lume plots (rectangular indices at 3, 6, and 9; inverted triangle at 12, and circular indices at each remaining hour mark), along with the emblematic Mercedes hands (beginning 1954, ref. 6205), have become the defining characteristics of not only the Submariner line but arguably the design traits and personality of the brand’s sports models overall.

Through The Years

In the decades since, the design language and function of the Submariner line have evolved in accordance with the new technologies and materials of the day. And yet, from a design standpoint, the Submariner remains evergreen: rotating bezel, luminous indices, Mercedes hands, etc.

For example, an owner of an original Submariner from the 1950s would still recognize a modern Submariner to be the same watch, much in the way that the Porsche 911 has evolved over the years while maintaining its core DNA. 

Crown guards were added in 1959; depth ratings got deeper (from 100 and 200m to the current 300m); dials went matte to glossy; indices got bigger (“maxi” dials of the ref. 5512 and modern); corrosion-resistant 904L steel was introduced (1985); and even a date wheel version was added (ref. 1680 in 1969, along with the iconic “cyclops” window), among countless other advancements.

Today, while the many vintage variants now command their own literary dictionaries and secondary market values (“Bart Simpson”, “Swiss Exclamation Point”, “Double Swiss Underline”, “Meters first”; try explaining that to your non-watch friends), the latest generation of the Submariner maintains similar design identity.

In a newly upsized 41mm diameter case (40.6mm in actual measurement), in what was the most significant change to the model line since the jump to the “Super Case” in 2008, with “Cerachrom” ceramic bezel, maxi dial, and updated bracelet with new Glidelock clasp. 

Modern Submariners are beefy, solid, and bold in the most luxurious sense. While arguably still “tool” watches capable of true diving and built to diving spec, there is a definite sense of luxury and bling factor not attributable to pre-ceramic iterations of the past (18k Yellow Gold ref. 1680, etc. notwithstanding). 

No matter how you decide to wear them, there are eight current models available today, varying from 904L Oystersteel (with and without date) to two-tone Oystersteel and yellow gold (black and blue variants available), to full-on solid white gold (with blue bezel) or yellow gold (with black bezel).

All models now feature the 3235 base movements using the patented Chronergy escapement, combining high energy efficiency and dependability with a 70-hour power reserve. Let’s jump into it! 

1. Rolex Submariner 126610LN

The icon itself. Though the Submariner didn’t gain a date window until the ref. 1680 in 1969, it’s truly the Submariner Date that has defined the dive watch genre in the years since. In fact, its date and cyclops window has become synonymous with the Rolex brand itself.

With the introduction of the 126610LN in 2020, we have a return to form despite a jump to 41mm. Compared to the previous generation’s use of controversially thick lugs on the Super Case, we’re now presented with slimmer lugs producing a more balanced case shape down to the bracelet, achieved by widening the lug width to 21mm.

In all other dimensions, the 126610LN wears nearly identical to the last generation (importantly, 48mm lug to lug; 12.3mm thickness). However, the wider bracelet is noticeable on the wrist to the astute or those with experience wearing the 116610LN.

The clasp is now a bit larger and longer and provides 20mm of Glide Lock adjustment in 2mm increments, useful for aiding comfort throughout the day as one’s wrist swells and contracts. Finally, Anti-Reflective coating is now applied to the underside of the sapphire crystal, providing increased legibility at various angles. Available in a standard black bezel and dial configuration, the Submariner Date currently retails for $10,250.

2. Rolex Submariner 124060 “No Date”

Colloquially known as the “No Date” Submariner, the current generation 124060, which also debuted in 2020 alongside its “Submariner Date” brethren, is the true “Submariner”. Though receiving the same upgrades as the 126610LN mentioned prior, the No Date offers collectors a few important traits that make it a favorite for the truly initiated (Read: “watch nerds”).

Heritage: The No Date is a direct descendant of the very first Submariners of the 1950s, with its lack of date and hyper specificity. After all, who needs to know the date underwater?
Aesthetic Balance: The date and cyclops window is “love or hate”. If you prefer a balanced look, the No Date is your only option. Arguably, without the cyclops, the no date is also a bit more under the radar.

Rarity: Though production numbers are not made publicly known by Rolex, we can infer from available models on the secondary market that the No Date is rarer, in a near 2:1 ratio in favor of the No Date. Current retail price: $9,100

3. Rolex Submariner 126613 Two-Tone Models

Rolex debuted the first two-tone Submariner in 1984 (ref. 16803) in both black and blue variants featuring a combination of steel and yellow gold. That line continues through to the latest generation, via the blue bezel and dial 126613LB “Bluesy” and the black bezel and dial 126613LN.

With a yellow gold bezel, crown, and polished center links, the two-tone Submariner variants offer a step up in luxury for those wanting to add a bit more bling against the typical full steel models typically seen. Of note, the 126613 models now feature white dial text instead of gold text seen on the previous 116613 generations. Current retail price: $15,600

4. Rolex Submariner 126618 Solid Gold Models

For a brand as vertically integrated as Rolex, it should come as no surprise that it even makes its own gold. With an in-house foundry, Rolex can ensure strict quality assurance and material integrity. Truly, Rolex gold (in yellow, white, or Everose) is a site to behold AND hold (it’s heavy). For the ultimate in exuberance, look no further than the 126618 (black and blue variants available, 126618LN and 126618LB, respectively). Current retail price; $39,000 

5. Rolex Submariner 116610LV “Hulk”

From its debut in 2010 to its discontinuation in 2020, the 116610LV (often referred to as the “Hulk”) was the first and only Submariner with a green bezel, and dial, whose popularity and demand continue to this day on the secondary market.

Though the use of a green bezel was first applied on the 11610V “Kermit” to mark the Submariner’s 50th anniversary in 2003, the combination of the brilliant “green gold” dial along with the increased lug mass of the super case earned the 116610LV the now infamous moniker.

A darling of the secondary watch market boom in recent years, the Hulk now commands prices well above its original retail price if you’re lucky enough to find one. Hulk Smash! Last MSRP: $9,350

6. Rolex Submariner 126610LV “Cermit”

With the discontinuation of the 116610LV “Hulk” in 2020, Rolex released a new green bezel Submariner in the 126610LV. Gone was the “green gold” dial, replaced with a standard black Submariner Date dial. Collectors still debate over which version they prefer, as well as what to actually name the watch. In 2025, two names have stuck most: “Cermit” (as in, Cerachrom bezel ‘Kermit’) and “Starbucks” (based on the popular coffee retailer’s logo).

Whichever name you decide to call it, the 126610LV features all of the technical updates of the latest 41mm Submariner generation, including a new case and calibre 3235 movement with a 70-hour power reserve. The green Cerachrom bezel remains a pleasant differentiator from the standard Oystersteel models; at the very least, “bragging rights!”. Current Retail Price: $10,800

7. Rolex Submariner 126619LB White Gold “Smurf”

In 2008, Rolex released the first Submariner to feature a full 18k white gold case and bracelet to mark the brand’s 100-year anniversary. Contrasting with the white gold was a bright blue dial and Cerachrom bezel, which was quickly named the “Smurf” based on the popular cartoon (collectors love nicknames). When that super case model was discontinued, Rolex replaced it with the current 41mm diameter size 126619LB in 2020, albeit with a standard black Submariner Date dial applied instead.

Decidedly stealth wealth, the white gold could be mistaken for plain old steel from the less discerning. A true “ if you know, you know” watch, though we should really call it the “Sub Zero” now (for the Mortal Kombat fans; what did I say, we really love nicknames). Current Retail Price: $42,000

8. Vintage Rolex Submariner 6204

The first true “Submariner”, produced in 1953. Though a few standard hallmarks of current-generation Submariners are missing, all of the initial design elements were in place from the get-go, starting with the black rotating bezel and dial layout.

Relatively smaller in comparison to today’s standards with a 37mm diameter case and 5.3mm crown, the 6204 still was a serious tool watch rated to 100m water resistance. At its heart, the watch was powered by the caliber A260, Rolex’s most robust automatic movement available at the time. The gilt dial and pencil-like hands were inevitably removed upon later iterations.

9. Vintage Rolex Submariner 6538 “Big Crown”

The year is 1962. Actor Sean Connery plays the role of James Bond in the film Dr. No. A film legend and saga is born. On Connery’s wrist: A Rolex Submariner, reference 6538. The rest is history. Today, the 6538, with its oversized 8mm crown, is perhaps the most iconic and coveted of vintage Rolex sport watches due to its association with the film and character.

One particular example even sold for $492,500 at auction in Christie’s New York in December 2017. Two main variants exist; The “two-line” with two lines of text at the six o’clock position and the “four-line” with four lines of text in the same position, albeit denoting chronometer certification (the first Submariner to feature such).

10. Vintage Rolex Submariner 5514 “COMEX”

The legend of the Submariner is propped up by its association of use in the field by the military and deep-diving research teams. COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises), a leading French diving company in the 1960s and 70s, worked with Rolex to create the reference 5514 for personal use. As a watch specifically made for COMEX, the 5514 was never sold in public retail, ultimately making it among the rarest of all Submariner models ever produced.

Based on the existing ref. 5513 of the day, the 5514 features a Helium Escape Valve flanked on its left-hand case side (the only Submariner model to ever feature one), with the COMEX logo emblazoned in white just below the center of the dial. A truly rare and sought-after vintage model, examples have sold for over $100,000 in today’s market.

Conclusion

From humble tool watch beginnings to becoming the definitive and most identifiable Swiss luxury watch today, the Rolex Submariner has stood the test of time by maintaining a laser-like focus in its aesthetic design and pursuit of technical excellence.

Few other products in any category can claim such history or success, and the Rolex Submariner has earned its place alongside such undeniable icons. Which Submariner do you choose? 

Watch winders are an essential device for modern automatic watches, as they ensure your watches stay properly wound and are available whenever you want them. This is particularly important when you have an extensive collection of watches.

So, if you want your Rolex watch to always be available and fully powered, having a high-quality watch winder is crucial. But what makes a good watch winder? What features and specifications should you look at for your Rolex watches? And which are the best watch winders for Rolex?

Join me as we discuss the history of watch winders and how they operate, as well as which are the top watch winders for your Rolex collection.

About Watch Winders for Rolex

A watch winder is a device that keeps automatic watches wound and running even when they are not being worn. It replicates the watch’s motion, ensuring that the mainspring stays wound and the watch displays the correct time and date.

The history of the watch winder can be traced back to John Harwood, who invented the automatic watch and later created the first watch winder to showcase the functionality of his invention.

The purpose of a watch winder is to maintain the performance and longevity of automatic watches. The oils and lubricants used in watch movements can dry up or coagulate if the timepiece is left stationary for too long, hindering its performance.

Components like the mainspring can also experience diminished lifespan if they remain in the same position for extended periods. While some argue that modern synthetic lubricants are less affected by inactivity, watch winders are still deemed useful for watches with complications like perpetual calendars or moonphases, as resetting these complications can be time-consuming. For Rolex watches, the need for a watch winder depends on the model. Simple time and date models typically don’t require a winder as they are easy to set manually.

However, watches with complex functions like the Day-Date or Sky-Dweller may benefit from a winder, especially for those who own multiple watches and want to keep them constantly ready. A watch winder can also serve as a secure and visually appealing way to display and protect valuable timepieces. Ultimately, while not a necessity for all watch owners, a watch winder can be a valuable tool for maintaining and showcasing automatic watches.

What to Look for When Buying Watch Winders for Rolex Watches

Design & Materials

When considering a watch winder, the design and materials used are crucial factors to examine. A high-quality watch winder should be well-crafted and durable, ensuring it can withstand regular use and provide long-lasting performance.

Look for winders made from sturdy materials such as wood, metal, or acrylic, depending on your personal preference. The aesthetics of the winder are also important, as it should complement your watch collection and add a touch of elegance to your space.

Pay attention to the details, such as the finish, color, and overall design of the winder, to ensure it aligns with your style and preferences. For example, a winder with a wood casing can provide a classic and sophisticated look, while an acrylic winder offers a modern and sleek appearance.

Additionally, consider the interior lining of the winder. Soft fabric and padded walls protect your watches from scratches and damage while securely holding them in place. By selecting a well-designed and carefully crafted watch winder, you can enhance your timepiece collection’s functionality and aesthetic appeal.

Slots & Features

The number of slots and additional features of a watch winder should be carefully considered. Assess your watch collection and determine how many watches you have with automatic movements.

Choose a winder that can accommodate your collection size, whether it’s a single-watch winder or a multi-slot winder. It’s worth noting that the more slots a winder has, the higher the cost tends to be.

If you’re on a budget, you can opt for a winder for your less frequently worn watches and manually wind the others when needed. Furthermore, consider the specific features that would enhance the usability and convenience of the winder.

For example, programmable rotation modes and turns per day (TPD) settings allow you to customize the winding patterns based on the requirements of your watches. Some advanced models even offer bidirectional rotation, providing versatility for winding watches with different movement types.

Additionally, built-in timers can ensure precise winding control, allowing you to set the desired duration and intervals for winding. Some winders also provide storage compartments for keeping additional watch accessories, such as straps or extra watch bands, organized and easily accessible.

By carefully evaluating the slots and features of a watch winder, you can choose one that effectively meets your specific needs and enhances the functionality of your watch collection.

Operation

Understanding the operation of a watch winder is essential for its effective use. Familiarize yourself with the instructions and functions of the winder to ensure proper operation. Most watch winders are either battery-operated or plug into an outlet.

If you frequently travel, a battery-operated winder may be more convenient, as you won’t need to carry cables with you. Pay attention to the noise level of the winder, as some models are designed to operate quietly, making them suitable for use in quiet environments like bedrooms or offices.

Additionally, consider the power supply options provided by the winder. Ideally, it should offer both a power adapter for consistent energy output when plugged in and rechargeable batteries for on-the-go usage.

This versatility allows you to use the winder in various settings without limitations. To ensure the longevity of your watches and the winder itself, it’s essential to use the winder per the manufacturer’s guidelines.

This includes properly placing the watches on the cushions or holders, setting the rotation modes and TPD according to the watch specifications, and regularly cleaning and maintaining the winder.

By following these instructions and understanding the operation of the watch winder, you can ensure optimal performance and extend the lifespan of your automatic watches.

The Best Rolex Watch Winders

1.  Barrington Single Watch Winder

The Barrington watch winder offers a range of features and qualities that make it stand out in the market. Its sleek and minimalistic design fits well into any modern setting. The winder comes in various colors and finishes, allowing for customization to match personal preferences.

While there are some design flaws, such as the front-facing LED and the high gloss finish attracting dust and fingerprints, the winder’s overall build quality and functionality are impressive.

They feature ultra-quiet motors, adjustable rotation settings, and the ability to change rotation direction, ensuring compatibility with different watch movements. The inclusion of a reference guide for setting up specific watch models is a helpful touch.

Additionally, a convenient feature is the option to daisy chain multiple winders together for simultaneous operation. Despite the higher price point, the Barrington watch winder provides a premium experience that surpasses cheaper alternatives.

Overall, it’s well worth the investment for watch enthusiasts seeking a reliable and high-quality watch winder.

2.  Wolf Cub Single Watch Winder

Introducing the Wolf Cub Single Automatic Watch Winder, a popular choice among watch enthusiasts seeking a reliable and functional accessory. Manufactured by the renowned brand, Wolf, known for its commitment to quality and craftsmanship, this watch winder offers a range of features that make it stand out.

With its compact cube shape and reasonable price point, it provides an ideal solution for winding and displaying a single watch. The winder operates silently with minimal noise and comes with a built-in light indicator.

It ensures the precise number of rotations per day, preventing overwinding and potential damage to your timepiece. The winder can be powered by batteries or a universal power adapter, offering cordless convenience.

With its sleek design, glass front, and lock-in cover, it beautifully showcases your watch while keeping it ready for wear. Backed by a 2-year warranty, the Wolf Cub Single Automatic Watch Winder combines functionality, quality, and aesthetic appeal.

Though it only accommodates one watch and has a slightly higher price than other options, its performance and attention to detail make it a worthwhile investment.

3.  SwissKubik Startbox

The SwissKubik Startbox is also worth considering as a cost-effective and customizable solution for watch enthusiasts seeking a reliable and compact option. Designed with attention to detail and utilizing high-quality materials, SwissKubiK offers a range of features that make it stand out among other watch winders.

With its precise winding program, the winder ensures the correct rotations per day and direction for your specific timepiece, avoiding unnecessary wear. The compact size and battery-powered operation make it versatile and suitable for storage in a safety deposit box.

The customizable settings can be easily adjusted using the provided software, allowing you to meet the unique requirements of your watch collection. The watch winder cuff is available in different sizes, securely accommodating both strap and bracelet watches.

The glass door adds an elegant touch and allows for thicker watches without the risk of hitting the door. With its reliability, quiet operation, and endorsement from prestigious brands, the SwissKubiK watch winder is a top choice for watch collectors who value functionality and quality.

4.  Rapport Formula Single Watch Winder

When it comes to watch winders, the Rapport Formula Single Watch Winder stands out as a solid option that offers a blend of style and functionality.

Its high-gloss ebony black finish with chrome fittings gives it an elegant appearance that rivals the sophistication of the SwissKubiK and Wolf watch winders. The soft feel velvet-lined interior provides a luxurious touch and ensures your watch is well-protected.

Compared to the SwissKubiK winder, the Rapport Formula Single Watch Winder offers a more affordable price point without compromising on quality. However, it may not have the same level of customization options as the SwissKubiK winder’s software-based programming, for example.

In terms of design, the Rapport Formula winder’s lockable case with a key supplied adds an extra layer of security, distinguishing it from the Wolf watch winder’s more open display.

Overall, the Rapport Formula Single Watch Winder strikes a balance between style, functionality, and affordability, making it a compelling choice for watch enthusiasts looking to care for their timepieces.

5.  Wolf British Racing Double Watch Winder With Storage

For those in need of more storage, the Wolf British Racing Double Watch Winder with storage is an excellent choice. Wolf is a renowned brand in the world of watch winders and boxes, known for its heritage and commitment to craftsmanship. The British Racing Green winder showcases elegance and functionality with its vegan leather and gold-toned fluted framing.

With Wolf’s patented technology, you can trust the accuracy and precision of the winding process. The range of rotation options and additional storage features add versatility and practicality. The British Racing Double winder by Wolf provides a comprehensive solution for watch collectors, combining style, protection, and functionality.

6.  Rapport Savoy Watch Winder Safe

The Rapport Savoy Watch Winder Safe offers both storage and winding capabilities for your valuable timepieces.

The Savoy by Rapport of London is a compact and efficient triple-watch winder safe that offers maximum security for your watches. Crafted with a grained leather exterior and featuring a fingerprint-locking system, this safe ensures maximum protection for your timepieces.

The soft velveteen fabric lining and adjustable watch arms keep your watches securely in place, while the virtually silent winding system offers customizable control levels. The LCD touchscreen display control panel allows for precise adjustments of speed, direction, and duration of rotations for each individual winder head.

With its space-saving design and ability to rotate clockwise, anti-clockwise, and bi-directionally, the Savoy provides a reliable solution for maintaining and protecting your watch collection. In comparison to previous winders discussed, the Savoy stands out with its advanced security features and convenient removable storage tray.

While other winders offer similar winding capabilities, the Savoy W651 excels in its compact size and focus on watch safety. Whether you choose to power it with the AC adapter or the backup battery option, this smart and stylish winder safe is ideal for watch enthusiasts looking to keep their timepieces secure and in optimal condition.

7.  Barrington Luxury 4 Watch Winder

Barrington presents a stylish and efficient solution for watch enthusiasts with their 4-watch winder. This winder stands out with its sleek design and closed display case, showcasing Barrington’s commitment to quality and craftsmanship.

The ability to individually program each rotor with variable settings and the option to choose from multiple rotation directions and turns per day offers a high level of customization to suit different watch models.

The inclusion of luxury features such as ultra-quiet Japanese motors, LED downlights, and a built-in storage drawer further enhances its appeal. In comparison to other winders we discussed, such as the SwissKubiK winder and the Wolf winders, the Barrington 4-Watch Winder offers a combination of style, functionality, and convenience.

Its silent operation, digital display, and remote control add to the overall user experience. With its compact dimensions and AC mains power operation, this winder is a must-have for watch connoisseurs looking to keep their timepieces running smoothly and securely.

8.  Wolf Viceroy 8 Piece Watch Winder

The 8-piece Viceroy watch winder from Wolf truly embodies the epitome of modern luxury, seamlessly blending style and functionality. With its sleek design and precision engineering, this winder offers a range of customizable options to cater to the needs of your timepiece collection.

The backlit LCD display allows for easy control of each winding module, with the ability to set rotations per day between 300 and 1200, doubling the turns with the bi-directional setting. What sets Wolf apart is their precise rotation counting, ensuring that every watch remains in perfect rhythm.

The soft pebble vegan leather exterior and silver silk interior exude elegance, making it a visual delight. In comparison to other winders we discussed, such as the Rapport Formula Single Watch Winder and the Barrington 4-Watch Winder, the Viceroy stands out with its higher capacity and advanced programming options.

The solid wood construction, integrated lock and key, and LED signals add to the overall quality and reliability. The Viceroy by Wolf is the pinnacle of sophistication, providing a seamless blend of form and function for the discerning watch collector.

Conclusion

In conclusion, this selection of the top 8 watch winders for Rolex offers a range of exceptional options to keep your Rolex timepieces in optimal condition. With precision rotation settings, elegant designs, and reliable craftsmanship, these winders provide the care and precision necessary for your valuable Rolex collection. Choose the perfect winder from our list and ensure that your Rolex watches are always ready to accompany you on your daily journeys.

“Tick-tock, tick-tock, tick-tock”. If you suddenly notice this sound from your Rolex, there are two things involved: you either bought a knock-off model, or you own the classic Oysterquartz. Now, your heart’s pacing. You’re furious, maybe even disappointed; your dealer had the audacity to sell a counterfeit. 

Relax. All watches tick. But unlike cheap quartz watches, Rolex watches don’t keep time in the traditional tick-tock fashion. In this article, you’ll learn all about how Rolex watches tick and how the myth they don’t started.

The Origin of the Myth

There’s no denying that many people got into the luxury watch market as a direct result of pop culture. But while I’m not a traditional gatekeeping-type watch enthusiast, I believe you should never let trends influence your taste. You’ll be robbed into splurging and thinking you got a bargain because your favorite artist wore one in a music video.

Meanwhile, you’d have passed on better or comparable affordable options because they’re not trendy.  How is this related to the Swiss luxury watch ticking? The myth started when arguably the greatest rapper alive, Jay Z, said, “Rollies that don’t tick-tock”. This braggadocious lyric has been used by countless artists since then, including A-Listers like Lil Durk and Future. It’s true to some extent, but it’s practically impossible for a watch not to “tick-tock.” 

What Does It Mean When A Watch Ticks? 

The thing about watches is that they all tick. I mean, there’s a sound associated with time itself. You guessed right, “tick-tock tick-tock”. Now why do they make that sound? 

To be clear, the volume of a watch’s movement depends on factors like case material, material quality, escapement components, and sometimes, the manufacturer. The general rule of thumb is that timepieces made with cheap, lightweight materials tick the loudest.  

But this isn’t always the case; some watches, like models with a pin-lever escapement, generally tick loudly because they use metal instead of jewel pins. And quartz movements are usually quieter than mechanical watches, as they contain fewer or no moving parts. 

Anyway, a watch ticks to keep the time running. How it ticks is a direct representation of its internal components/engine/caliber. Or, better yet, its movement. Mechanical watches like Rolex tick faster because they use a complicated mechanical movement rather than quartz, which is a cheaper alternative even though it’s more accurate. 

It’s for this reason, and of course, as a status symbol, that many watch enthusiasts remain watch enthusiasts. And Rolex has been on top of the movement engineering game for decades to keep hardcore enthusiasts infatuated and aesthetic buyers drooling. 

Let’s talk more about how Rolex and mechanical watches tick differently. More specifically, the reason why A-list rappers believe they don’t tick-tock. 

The Sweeping Motion of Rolex and Mechanical Watches

Rolex watches have a second hand that appears to glide through the dial rather than tick-tock. It’s not restricted to the brand, nor is it a novelty. All mechanical watches tick at varying frequencies, including dirt-cheap ones, which are typically faster than quartz. So it gives the illusion that the hand isn’t ticking. 

Here’s what goes on behind the dial. A mainspring passes power into an escapement mechanism, which then saves energy by passing it through a couple of gears to the watch hands. 

Inside the escapement, a balance wheel swings back and forth like a pendulum, while a pallet fork restricts its movement per second to stay accurate. It’s the speed of this pause-and-start interaction that makes the second-hand in mechanical watches tick in a sweep motion.

Mechanical movement watches with a faster balance wheel keep time more accurately and reliably than slower ones. They usually tick between four, six, and eight times per second, or 21,600, 28,000, or 36,000 bph (beats per hour), respectively. 

The only exception is in specialty or vintage watches, like the Antoine Martin Slow Runner 1 Hz, which beats once per second. It took Martin Braun building the largest escapement to achieve this feat in The Slow Runner. But quartz watches achieve this accuracy only at a fraction of the cost of engineering. 

Rolex watches tick 8 times a second, 8 hertz, or 28,000 vph (vibrations per hour). Listen to the tick-tock of the Rolex Submariner, played at 0.25 playback speed, below. 

Rolex Making the Tick-Tock Sound: A Video

In truth, this is a display of outstanding craftsmanship and engineering. If you listen even closer, you can hear the mechanical tune of the balance wheel and gears grinding to set the wheels of time in motion. But it also shows undeniable evidence that “Rollies tick-tock”. Listen with a headset if you’re still in denial. 

Rather than beat on the count of a second, they beat non-stop to make a second and need to be wound when they run out of juice. So this is why Jay Z and the hip hop community consider only a Rolex that “doesn’t tick tock” the symbol of authenticity. 

Quartz watches, on the other hand, beat only once, exactly on the second, which is more efficient and accurate. You’ll see why soon. If that’s your situation, it’s true that a “Rolex doesn’t tick”. It’s most likely a knockoff Rolex with a quartz movement. 

So if you’re asking if a Rolex jerks per second, the answer is no. Only the Oysterquartz (discontinued in 2001) tick-tocks.

Quartz Watches vs Mechanical Watches

Now we’ve established how Rolex does and doesn’t tick. Here’s why quartz watches beat at a single beat per second. And why they’re better timekeepers than any mechanical watch. It’s quite a simple process. 

A quartz crystal is piezoelectric; it can absorb electrical current and convert it into mechanical energy, which powers watch hands. A battery-powered electric circuit sends current to the crystal, which then vibrates 32,768 times in a second. 

The circuit monitors these frequencies and pushes the second hand forward on exactly every 32,768th vibration, which creates that one-tick-per-second (tick-tock) motion. In other words, it’s extremely accurate, just like using a smartphone or computer, since it’s programmed on a circuit board. 

As you can imagine, this is a cheaper and more reliable system than mechanical movements, which require higher expertise and more materials. Not to mention regular maintenance of the engine. All a quartz watch needs is a battery change and regular cleaning. So it’s no surprise that many watchmakers closed down when quartz watches first hit the market in 1970.

The Rolex Datejust OysterQuartz – the first and only Quartz Rolex

The Rolex Oysterquartz is symbolic of a dark era for the luxury watch market – the Quartz Crisis. While some may see it as proof of desperation from the Swiss watch manufacturer, it’s also evidence of stellar engineering and innovation. Rolex spent five years developing two movements that toppled the quartz movement of the day.

And so, in 1977, they dished out what seemed like a Datejust or Day-Date with a quartz movement. It’s still available today as a collector’s watch. It has the dial of a DateJust but with an angular case, an integrated bracelet, and an over-engineered quartz movement.

Some enthusiasts call this movement a hybrid because it was way ahead of its time. It has 11 jewels, a lever escapement, and can self-regulate for super precision. Nonetheless, the point here is that this is the only Rolex watch that tick-tocks.  

Rolex Mechanical Watch Movements

Manual winding watch movements require you to wind the crown when the power reserve runs out (worn or not). Rolex has a handful of them; the majority of their current models carry an automatic movement.

The most iconic hand-wound Rolex I’ve seen so far is the Rolex Cellini Vintage 1974, ref. 4083. Or Rolex Cellini 50505 in an 18k gold case. There’s no denying that this collection was the brand’s flagship for a taste of elegance and classic dress watches.

Yet it offers exceptional value for the money, as far as high-end luxury dress watches are concerned. It’s now reborn in the Rolex 1908 collection and newer Cellini models with automatic movements. The point here is that Rolex’s mechanical watches tick in a sweeping motion.   

Rolex Automatic Movements

The go-to for Rolex luxury watch brands is the self-winding mechanical movement. This kind of movement charges the mainspring for as long as you wear the watch. Using kinetic energy, a rotor behind a case back swings in rhythm with your wrist movement, automatically coiling the mainspring. When unused, it keeps time until the power reserve is depleted.

Current versions of Rolex’s automatic movements beat at 28,800 vibrations per hour (vph).  Alternatively, 8 ticks per second would facilitate the highest level of precision and reliability. Although we’ve seen varying frequencies over the years, Rolex has never produced a movement with a single beat per second. One thing Jay Z was right about, though, was when he said: “Audemars, that’s losing time”. 

Debunking The Myth: “Rolex Watches Don’t Tick”

I hope this article comprehensively and adequately answers the question, “Does a Rolex tick?” for anyone curious. Surely, with this clarity, you understand why giving a straight answer is hard because the question can come from different viewpoints. 

If you’re a fan of rap and have heard the infamous Jay-Z line, he’s fundamentally wrong about Rollies that don’t tick-tock. The second-hand ticks voraciously fast, so it appears as if it’s sweeping the dial. In Jiggaman’s defense, though, it was a sick rhyme to the previous line. Maybe J. Hova meant to say they don’t tick, but they sweep. 

However, if you’re a curious watch owner, then you’re right to be anxious; a Rolex never ticks. Only the vintage Oysterquartz tick-tocks every second. An authentic Rolex watch should “tick-tocks” 8 times per second.  

Watch enthusiasts, like many other enthusiasts, whether it be cars, sneakers, EDC (Everyday Carry), or anything else out there worth collecting, tend to enjoy their communities and the fun eccentricities and nuances that come with them.

For example, if you are a big EDC enthusiast, there is a good chance that you can have an at-length conversation about the different metal alloys that make the very best EDC knife. Or, if you are a big sneakerhead, there is no doubt that you’ve argued over the greatest and worst sneaker releases of all time.

To an outsider looking in, these conversations might as well be in a foreign language. But to the enthusiast, the nuances that the common person can easily overlook or ignore are precisely what makes them an enthusiast. With that said, watch enthusiasts might just be the most diehard of all.

In the pantheon of highly respected, famous, and even infamous timepieces, we, as enthusiasts, have always enjoyed and adored the nicknames that we give to our watches. Now, I don’t mean personal nicknames or pet names that you give your personal collection; I’m talking about the well-known aliases given to timepieces by the community at large.

Some of the most famous are the Pepsi, Batman, Paul Newman, Dark Lord, Arnie, Snowflake, Ed White, and my personal favorite, the Pussy Galore. While there are hundreds of examples of fun, playful nicknames that every watch has earned from the community, the list above is just a tiny example.

With that said, today we will be discussing the Rolex “Buckley Dial,” what it is, where the nickname came from, and a few models that are sure to pique your interest.

The Many, Many Unique Dials of Rolex Watches

Rolex is likely the most popular and sought-after brand in the watch community and likely one of the most recognizable brands in the world. From its sponsorship of sporting events like Formula One racing, golf, and tennis to its sponsorship of the arts, the Rolex name extends beyond the enthusiast community.

With that said, the public image of Rolex has changed over the years. Gone are the days of true tool watches created for a purpose, and in are the days of status, notoriety, and achievement.

So, it is no surprise that in this new age of Rolex, there is a lack of fun, quirky, and unique dial options that were ever present in the old days of Rolex. The joy of yesteryear has given way to a more sterile, safe, and palatable catalog.

Having said that, let’s explore some of the most unique dial offerings from Rolex’s past. Rolex first introduced some incredibly unique dial options in the 70s with an array of stone dial options that are sure to boggle the mind.

With dials ranging from actual wood like birch, African mahogany, and walnut to stones like onyx, tiger eye, malachite, and coral, the use of these incredible materials is proof that Rolex had a sense of fun and uniqueness that is not as common on modern Rolex timepieces.

So, What is Buckley Dial?

For those vintage Rolex collectors and connoisseurs, the Buckley Dial is surely on your radar and possibly in your collection. But, for those who might be new to vintage Rolex or watches in general, let’s break down what the Buckley Dial looks like from a design standpoint and how it differs from similar modern Rolex dials.

The Buckley Dial is generally found in vintage Datejust models that date back to the 70s and 80s. Most commonly found on Datejust references 1601, 1603, 16014, and 16030, the Buckley dial seems to have come into existence around the same time period that Rolex began using the hard stones we discussed earlier.

But like most vintage Rolex, which can be a bit of a mystery, the Buckley Dial has seen use in other Rolex models like the Day-Date and Oysterquartz. What makes the Buckley Dial so unique from a design language point of view is the use of printed Roman Numerals vs. applied Roman Numerals seen on modern Rolex watches.

While some will argue that the use of applied Roman Numerals in some flavor of precious metal or diamond makes the watch more luxurious, I’ll say that the modern dials with applied numerals feel a bit cluttered.

That is what is so beautiful about a printed Buckley Dial, the use of space and dial layout. Due to the particular font thinness, compared to modern applied numerals, the dial has the opportunity to breathe, stretch its legs, and allow for the nuanced “feet” that adorn the numerals to fill some of the empty space.

The crisp printing of the numerals also allows for a highly legible dial that makes reading the time at a glance incredibly easy.

Who is Buckley?

Like many Rolex models named after individuals, most notably the Paul Newman Daytona and the McQueen Explorer II, which he may not have actually worn, the Buckley Dial is named after an individual who is neither a movie star nor a household name.

John Buckley is the owner of Tuscany Rose, a pre-owned watch shop that caters to vintage lovers and in the world of vintage Rolex, Buckley has a wealth of knowledge and expertise on the subject, so much so that he now has a Rolex nicknamed after him!

The story goes that John Buckley, vintage watch dealer extraordinaire renowned for his expertise in the field, became so passionate about vintage Rolex with printed dials that his enthusiasm and interest helped thrust the rare references into the limelight, gaining popularity on the pre-owned market.

Due to his passion and excitement for a reference that could have been lost to time, the watch community decided that the watch should be nicknamed after him. The rest is history.

Buckley Models to Adore

In an attempt to keep this section concise and quick, I will touch on a few standout Rolex models that use a Buckley dial and give a brief description of each timepiece. This will be by no means a definitive guide, but it should act as a decent jumping-off point for anyone looking to start the search for a Rolex model with a Buckley Dial.

Rolex Datejust Ref. 16030- Gray Dial

The Datejust ref. 16030 was first introduced in 1977 as a replacement for the Datejust ref. 1603 and would be produced and eventually taken out of production in 1988. In true vintage Rolex Datejust fashion, the ref. 16030 has a case diameter of 36mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 44mm, and a case thickness of 11mm.

The acrylic crystal comes with the signature cyclops over the date, which in tandem with the printed Buckley Dial, makes this timepiece highly legible. While we’ve discussed the Buckley Dial and design, we haven’t touched on dial colors.

I think the standout feature for me is the gray dialed reference. There is a beautiful monochromatic eeriness that works so well with the engine-turned bezel and patina’d lume plots.

Rolex Datejust Ref. 16014- Blue Dial

The Datejust ref. 16014, like the ref. 16030, was introduced in 1977 and saw production until 1988. This beautiful reference comes with a beautiful blue dial and white Roman Numerals. The white printing on the blue dial references truly pops.

The highly contrasted dial is an excellent example of simplistic and conservative beauty. The white gold fluted bezel gives the already charming timepiece a luster that can only be found in the use of precious metals.

Many Datejust references, especially vintage ones, are usually found on a leather strap or an original stretched-out jubilee. The reference shown as an example comes on an amazingly well-cared-for jubilee that looks as good today as it did the day it left the factory floor.

Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601- White Dial

Last but certainly not least, Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 with a white dial is likely going to be the most common Buckley Dialed Rolex out there.

While, as it stands, the Buckley Dial will always be a more unique and rare reference, the bright white dial with black printed numerals will be the one most often found in quality and well-regarded vintage watch shops.

The white-dialed reference is definitely a great do-all timepiece like the rest of the Datejust family. You get a watch that can be easily paired with both casual and formal attire, one that is not ostentatious or overly bold but an understated timepiece that can act as the perfect companion in whatever situation you put it in.

Parting Thoughts

In the wide world of vintage timepieces and, more specifically, vintage Rolex, enthusiasts and collectors are always looking for the next watch that will be highly sought after.

The Buckley Dialed Rolexes used to be just that. A watch that flew under the radar, a watch that only a few people gave much time and attention to, and one that one man saw the future potential of.

John Buckley and his now-loved Buckley Dialed Rolex watches are proof that in this weird hobby/obsession that we call horology, your passion and love for those unique outliers can earn you a spot in history!

Rolex watches are synonymous with luxury, precision, and timeless elegance. Renowned for their exceptional craftsmanship, engineering, and attention to detail, Rolex timepieces have become iconic symbols of success and prestige. 

With a history dating back to 1905, Rolex has consistently pushed the boundaries of watchmaking and marketing, introducing innovative features and technologies through the years. 

From the classic Datejust and Submariner to the sophisticated Day-Date and Cosmograph Daytona, Rolex offers a diverse range of models to suit various lifestyles and tastes. Each Rolex watch is meticulously crafted using high-quality materials, powered by precise movements, and designed to withstand the rigors of everyday wear. 

A Rolex watch is not just a timekeeping device but a statement of style and accomplishment recognized the world over. In this article, we’ll dive deep into a specific part of Rolex watches: the watch bezel. 

About Watch Bezels

Watch bezels serve both practical and aesthetic functions in wristwatches. A bezel is a ring-like component that surrounds the watch dial or face and is typically located between the crystal or glass covering and the watch’s case. While its primary purpose is to secure the crystal in place, bezels can also offer additional features and benefits depending on their design.

Protection & Durability 

The bezel acts as a protective barrier for the watch face. It helps prevent scratches, impacts, and other forms of damage to the dial, as well as the crystal or glass covering. By creating a raised edge around the watch face, the bezel adds an extra layer of protection against accidental knocks or bumps.

Timekeeping & Measurement 

Some watch bezels are specifically designed for timekeeping or measuring purposes. For example, diver’s watches often feature a unidirectional rotating bezel with minute markings to measure elapsed time underwater. 

The wearer can align the bezel’s marker with the minute hand to track the duration of a dive or any other time-based activity. Similarly, some bezels are designed with tachymeter scales to calculate speed or chronograph functions for measuring elapsed time.

Aesthetic Enhancement 

Bezels play a crucial role in the overall design and appearance of a wristwatch. They come in various materials, finishes, and styles to complement the watch’s aesthetics and create visual appeal. Whether it’s a simple, understated bezel or an elaborate, gemstone-encrusted one, the choice of bezel design can significantly influence the watch’s overall look and feel.

Functional Indicators

In certain watches, bezels can serve as functional indicators or markers. For example, a pilot’s watch might have a bi-directional rotating bezel with a slide rule function to assist with calculations related to aviation, such as fuel consumption or airspeed. These bezels often feature specialized markings or scales that aid in performing specific calculations or conversions.

Versatility & Customization

Some watches feature interchangeable bezels, allowing wearers to change the appearance or functionality of their timepieces easily. These modular bezel systems enable users to swap out bezels of different colors, materials, or functions, providing versatility and personalization options to match various occasions or preferences.

It’s worth noting that not all watches incorporate a functional bezel. Some timepieces, particularly minimalist or dress watches, may have fixed bezels that focus primarily on aesthetics while keeping the watch face unobstructed. 

In such cases, the absence of a functional bezel doesn’t diminish the watch’s overall value or functionality; instead, it reflects a design choice aimed at achieving a specific style or purpose.

Current Types of Rolex Bezels

Rolex watches are known for their attention to detail and precision craftsmanship, and the bezels they use are no exception. Rolex offers a range of different bezel types across their various watch models, each serving a specific purpose and catering to different needs. Here are some of the notable bezel types used by Rolex:

Smooth/Domed Bezel

The Rolex smooth bezel is a hallmark of elegance and sophistication, with just the right touch of sportiness. Found on models such as the Oyster Perpetual, Datejust, and Day-Date, and professional models like the Air King and Explorer, this bezel type showcases a sleek and polished surface devoid of any additional markings or textures. 

Its simplicity allows the focus to remain on the dial and overall design of the watch. The smooth bezel complements various styles, from formal occasions to everyday wear, making it a versatile choice for everyday wear. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, Rolex ensures that the smooth bezel seamlessly integrates with the watch case, creating a cohesive and harmonious aesthetic. 

This understated bezel design adds a touch of refined class to the timepiece, making it a timeless and elegant accessory for discerning individuals who appreciate the art of understated luxury.

Fluted Bezel 

The Rolex fluted bezel is an iconic and instantly recognizable feature of many Rolex watches, most notably the Datejust and Day-Date models. This distinctive bezel design showcases vertical ridges or grooves that encircle the outer edge, resembling the edge of a coin. 

The fluted bezel adds a touch of sophistication and character to the timepiece, elevating its aesthetic appeal. Carved with high precision, the fluted bezel also serves a practical purpose, allowing for easy gripping and manipulation when installing the bezel above the sapphire crystal. This bezel design enhances the watch’s visual allure and serves as a hallmark of Rolex’s attention to detail and craftsmanship. 

The Rolex fluted bezel has become the brand’s symbol and trademark feature, making it a coveted feature for those seeking a luxurious and recognizable timepiece. Recently, Rolex released the Perpetual 1908 dress watch collection, featuring finer coin edge ridges set into the bezel.

Diamond-Set Bezel

Rolex gem-set bezels represent the pinnacle of luxury and glamor. These bezels are adorned with carefully selected and expertly set precious gemstones, including diamonds, sapphires, or other exquisite gems. 

Rolex offers gem-set bezels on select models such as the Datejust and Day-Date, and even on sports models such as the Submariner, GMT Master II, and Daytona, enhancing their already distinguished designs. 

The gemstones are expertly placed into the bezel, ensuring precise alignment and a captivating display of brilliance and light play. Rolex’s strict quality standards guarantee that only the finest diamonds and gemstones are used and chosen for their exceptional clarity, color, and cut. The gem-set bezels elevate the watch’s allure, catching the light from every angle and turning heads with a dazzling presence. 

Among the Crown’s technical achievements and prowess, their in-house gem-setting represents the epitome of opulence, making these timepieces a coveted choice for those who seek the highest levels of watchmaking from the brand.

Rotatable Bezel

Among the Rolex catalog, both unidirectional and bidirectional rotating bezels are available on specific watch models for added function. Of the unidirectional variant, both the Submariner and Sea Dweller collections feature rotating bezels designed for diving. Either model’s bezels feature minute markings, allowing divers to accurately measure their elapsed dive time by aligning the bezel’s marker with the minute hand. 

Made from robust materials like ceramic or aluminum (in older generations), Rolex diving bezels are known for their durability and resistance to wear. In the Yacht Master, a bidirectional rotating bezel with a raised 60-minute scale is utilized. 

This bezel is designed for regatta timing, allowing wearers to measure precise intervals. It adds a sporty and nautical touch to the watch’s aesthetics, a bit more modern leaning than the traditional dive bezels mentioned earlier.

24-Hour GMT Bezel

The rotating GMT bezel is a distinct and practical feature found on the GMT-Master II collection, designed specifically for tracking multiple time zones. The bezel, made of robust materials like ceramic or aluminum (in previous generations), incorporates a 24-hour scale that allows wearers to easily reference a second timezone. 

The GMT bezel is bidirectional, enabling smooth and convenient adjustment. It can be rotated in either direction to align the 24-hour scale with the GMT hand on the watch dial. 

By setting the GMT hand to the desired second time zone and aligning it with the bezel, wearers can effortlessly keep track of two different time zones simultaneously. This functionality proves invaluable for travelers, pilots, and individuals who frequently deal with international time differences. It allows for quick and efficient time zone adjustments without affecting the accuracy of the watch’s primary timekeeping function by utilizing the crown for adjustment.

Tachymeter Bezel

The tachymeter bezel on the Rolex Daytona is a functional and iconic feature that enhances the watch’s chronograph capabilities. The bezel incorporates a tachymeter scale, which allows wearers to measure average speed over a known distance using the chronograph function. 

The tachymeter scale is engraved or printed (as on older models) on the outer edge of the bezel and typically ranges from 60 to 400 units per hour. It enables users to calculate speed based on the time taken to cover a specific distance. When the chronograph is activated, the wearer starts timing and stops it after traveling the desired distance.

The chronograph second hand points to the tachymeter scale, indicating the average speed. The tachymeter bezel on the Daytona is a functional tool and adds a sporty and dynamic touch to the watch’s overall design, reflecting the model’s racing heritage and its association with speed and precision.

Ring Command Bezel

The Rolex Yacht-Master II is equipped with a unique and innovative feature known as the “Ring Command” bezel. This specialized bezel is an integral part of the watch’s mechanical movement and allows for manipulating complex functions with haptic ease. 

The Ring Command bezel operates in conjunction with the watch’s programmable countdown timer, which is designed specifically for yacht racing. By rotating the bezel counterclockwise, it engages and unlocks the timer function. From there, the bezel can be turned further to set the desired countdown time.

Once the countdown begins, the bezel remains stationary, ensuring accurate timekeeping. 
The functionality of the Ring Command bezel lies in its intricate internal mechanism, which interacts with the watch’s movement to control the countdown timer. This innovative design enables precise and intuitive operation, allowing sailors to focus on their race preparations without any complexity.

Other Notable Types of Rolex Bezels

Outside of the current catalog’s range of bezel configurations, Rolex has historically utilized other types of bezels which are no longer in production, whether due to style and taste preferences changing through the years or streamlining of manufacturing across their product offerings today. Let’s explore this further. 

Engine Turned Bezel

No longer in production, the Engine Turned Bezel, commonly featured in historic collections such as the Air King, Datejust, Oyster Perpetual, and Date models, was a practical alternative for those seeking a design less formal than a fully fluted bezel, yet not as stark as a smooth domed bezel. 

Bark Bezel

Also no longer being produced, the bark bezel was utilized mainly on Day-Date and a small number of Datejust watches and featured even finer ridging along the surface of the bezel (quite like the texture of bark) than a traditional fluted bezel in fine materials like yellow and white gold.

Pyramid Bezel

As the name suggests, the Pyramid bezel featured pyramid-shaped decorative carvings on the bezel. Found on dressier pieces and often paired with gem set detailing, the Pyramid bezel was utilized on Day Date, Oysterquartz Day Date, as well as Lady Datejust timepieces. 

Florentine Bezel

The Florentine bezel is a very fine, almost filed-like texture which was rarely used on particular Datejust and Oyster Perpetual models. Adding a finer texture to what otherwise would be a traditional smooth bezel, it’s a particularly refined look not often seen in the brand’s catalog.

Moreau Bezel

Not widely produced or replicated, the Moreau bezel is a rare bezel type from the Crown, which featured a hashmark mix of engraving and textured finishing on select gold Date and Datejust models.

Greek Key Bezel

Echoing emblematic Greek decoration and patterning, the Greek Key style bezel from Rolex was only available on special order from the brand, particularly on the reference 1506 Date. Its deep etchings replicate Greek art patterns along the circumference of the bezel, much as the name suggests. 

Moiré Bezel

Similar to the Moreau bezel mentioned prior, the Moiré bezel features small flutings directed inwards towards the dial, as well as flutings crossing against them horizontally around the full circumference of the bezel. The result is a unique texture with an almost antiquated handcraft feel.

Zephyr Bezel

The Zephyr Bezel was featured on the Oyster Perpetual “Zephyr”, produced between the 1950s and 1970s. It features fine fluting and small cut notches at each minute mark on the inner side of the bezel, which the wearer could use as “hashes” for minute markings outside of the dial in practical use. 

Morellis Bezel

Rarely seen, the Morellis bezel is a gold leaf-like texture that is crisp and refined when found on rare Day Date models during the 1960s. The center links of the accompanying president-style bracelets also feature the gold leaf “Morellis” texture, producing an overall impressive if not stark look when compared to fully polished or fluted alternatives.

Conclusion

Over the decades since the brand’s inception, Rolex has continually offered and improved upon its bezel designs across its full range of timepiece offerings. It’s important to note that not all bezel types are available on every Rolex model. Specifically, the choice of bezel type, construction, and materials, depends on the watch’s intended purpose, design, and target audience. 

As a watchmaking and engineering powerhouse of the industry, Rolex has, through the years, selected and designed bezels that align with the functionality and aesthetics of each watch model, ensuring a harmonious and purposeful timepiece.