Category: Rolex

Everyone knows Rolex. If one conducted a “man on the street interview” and asked random people to name the first watch companies that came to mind, it seems reasonable to expect Rolex to be in the top five. Rolex has become a household name, synonymous with luxury and wealth. 

Yet not everyone knows they can also be a solid investment. Many would wrongly conclude owning a Rolex is an unwise financial decision, like buying a boat or any other depreciating luxury asset. After all, a Timex will tell the time just as well, for a tiny fraction of the price. 

However, Rolex not only delivers a beautiful watch that can be passed down to multiple generations but given the high demand and low inventory, Rolex watches are known to hold their value and often appreciate. 

About Rolex Watches in 2024

The demand for Rolex watches has only gone up in recent years, and the supply chain issues further added to delays. Rolex doesn’t release official numbers as to the volume of watches produced each year, but the most accepted number in the industry is roughly 1 million watches per year. 

Yet, the demand greatly outstrips Rolex’s ability to produce. Their most popular models have waiting lists that can be several years long, and even their less popular models require a wait of at least a few months. So, if one goes to an authorized Rolex retailer today, they shouldn’t expect to walk out of the shop with a Rolex on their wrist unless they already went in with one. 

By keeping the inventory low and the demand high, Rolex shrewdly creates an environment of exclusivity and scarcity, and this fuels a competitive market and drives up the prices both in the authorized retail and the gray markets. 

Should You Invest In Rolex for 2024?

Should Rolex be one of your investments? That’s a personal decision that one must make for themselves. However, many are choosing to invest in Rolex because they want to enjoy the exceptionally well-made, stunning timepieces that Rolex makes while having the peace of mind that there’s no safer watch investment bet than Rolex. At least, that’s the point of view of many watch experts and collectors. 

Watch experts value Rolex because they have a long, rich horological history. They’ve been at the cutting edge of innovation in the watch industry. Further, some of the greatest achievements in mountain climbing, deep sea diving, cave exploring, and racing have been marked with Rolex watches. 

Rolex also uses the highest quality materials to build their timepieces. Rolex has its own foundries, where they forge the highest quality steel, gold, platinum, and titanium. This is matched by the artisans’ expertise in crafting each watch perfectly, down to the very last detail. Their quality and consistency, paired with their remarkable history, is something that captures the attention and trust of professional watch collectors. 

Some of the top-selling Rolex collections in recent years are the DateJust, Daytona, Oyster Perpetual, Day-Date, Submariner, and GMT-Master. These are the top Rolex watches selected by the public and collectors. 

There’s a reasonable probability that these collections will remain in demand; therefore, one could conclude that they’re likely to hold or increase in value. In fact, the gray market is where one used to go to get a deal on a Rolex. Today, it’s where one goes to pay double MSRP (if not more) to get the watch of their dreams without having to wait three to five years. 

The Best Investment Rolexes

1. ROLEX COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA 126500LN

Sometimes the word iconic can be overused, but it’s perfectly appropriate in this case. The Rolex Cosmograph Dayton is a special timepiece. Of course, its association with another icon, actor, race car driver, entrepreneur, and philanthropist Paul Newman, simply adds to the gravity of this watch. In fact, Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona sold for a record-setting $17.8 million. This timepiece has been a favorite among collectors and enthusiasts, and it’s easy to see why. 

The Oystersteel case measures 40mm, sits on the wrist at 11.9mm thick (which is .5mm thinner than the previous generation), and is 46.5mm lug-to-lug. The model we’re exploring here is steel, but there are versions in two-tone steel and yellow gold, yellow gold, white gold, rose gold, and platinum. 

At the center of this wristwatch is a shiny black ceramic bezel with a high-performance chronograph. The tachymetric scale allows for measurements of average speeds up to 400 miles or kilometers per hour. The style of the bezel is a nod to the 1965 version. The watch’s white dial (also available in black on the Oystersteel configuration) is a three-register chronograph with 18-karat white gold hour markers and hands. 

Under the hood is Rolex’s caliber 4131 automatic movement, with a 72-hour power reserve, which is COSC and Rolex certificated. The watch features a signed screw-down crown and water resistance to 100 meters. The chronograph movement also offers hacking seconds. All this is paired with a three-link Oystersteel bracelet with a folding clasp and a 5mm extension. 

Price: $15,100 starting price. 

2. ROLEX GMT-MASTER II YELLOW GOLD 126718GRNR

The original Rolex GMT Master was first introduced in the 1950s in collaboration with Pan American World Airways (Pan Am) to meet the needs of pilots flying long-haul international routes. 

The tool watch, with its useful 24-hour hand and ceramic bezel, quickly became popular with pilots and globetrotters. Over the years, several notable versions have been released, such as the red and blue bezel nicknamed “Pepsi” by collectors. 

The version we’re examining is the Oyster, 40mm, yellow gold. The timepiece sits at 11.9mm on the wrist and measures 48mm from lug to lug. The watch, finished in 18-karat yellow gold with a black bezel and face, is absolutely gorgeous and is dripping with luxury. An inner yellow gold ring encircles the black dial with white gold indexes and yellow gold hands. For added functionality, there’s a Cyclops date window at three o’clock. 

The timepiece features a screw-down crown, sapphire crystal, and a water resistance of 100 meters. The watch is powered by Rolex’s caliber 3285 automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve. 

The movement’s features include a second time zone with independent rapid reset of the hour hand, instantaneous date, and hacking seconds. The timepiece is paired with an 18-karat yellow gold jubilee 5-link bracelet, which is simply as handsome as it gets, with a folding clasp and 5mm comfort extension. 

Price: $38,900

3. ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL “CELEBRATION MOTIF” 124300-0008

The Oyster Perpetual Celebration is a new Rolex model that’s cheeky and fun. I’m not sure those adjectives have ever been used to describe a Rolex. Rolex is known for its conservative design cues, which is why its designs are so timeless and enduring. However, this new, colorful model bucks those traditions, and I think it’s a daring move that will pay off and garner interest from a younger clientele. 

Back in 2020, Rolex released their 36mm Oyster Perpetual with multiple bright lacquer dials and included more sizing options. The colors included candy pink, green, yellow, coral red, and turquoise. The latest Celebration motif offers a ’Tiffany blue’ backdrop that incorporates all those dial colors into something reminiscent of champagne bubbles of different sizes, lined in black. It’s a simple, three-hand watch with white gold hands and indices. 

The Oyster Perpetual is offered in several different sizes from 28mm up to 41mm, but the celebration dial is only available in the 31mm, 36mm, and 41mm cases. The Oystersteel case measures 41mm, sits on the wrist at 11.7mm, and is 47.5mm lug-to-lug. 

The case and smooth fixed bezel are polished, and the timepiece is fitted with an Oyster bracelet and clasp with 5mm micro extensions. The watch has a screw-down crown and is water-resistant to 100 meters. Inside, the timepiece is powered by Rolex’s in-house 3230 automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve.

Price: $6,400 

4. ROLEX SUBMARINER “STARBUCKS” 126610LV

The Submariner, for many, is the standard bearer of dive watches. First introduced in the 1950s, the Submariner benefited from Rolex’s military and World War II heritage and became a respected tool watch among professional divers. The timepiece also has deep Hollywood roots and was worn by American actor Steve McQueen and was later worn on the wrist of James Bond actors, such as Sean Connery, on the silver screen. 

Filmmaker and explorer James Cameron is known for his relationship with Rolex, which included record-setting dives to the Titanic wreckage. He’s recounted how he wore his Submariner on his professional dives and when he received his Oscar for the film Titanic. 

This is just one of those watches that is the perfect choice to be worn over a wetsuit, for rugged deep-water dives, and for more formal occasions when paired with a suit or tux. Making it a great all-rounder. 

The stainless steel case measures 41mm, sits on the wrist at 12.4mm thick, and is 48.1mm from lug to lug. The polished green ceramic unidirectional bezel pairs nicely with a black lacquered dial that is clean and easy to read. Because of the green and black, some have dubbed it the “Starbucks” or “Kermit”. The hands and indices are lined in white gold, and there’s a Cyclops date window at three o’clock. 

The timepiece is powered by Rolex’s caliber 3235 automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve. It features a screw-down crown with Triplock triple waterproofness and is water resistant to 300 meters. It’s fitted with a 3-link Oyster bracelet with a folding Oysterlock safety clasp and the Glidelock extension system.

The timepiece can also be configured with a black bezel for a more classic look, but the green “Starbucks” version just might prove to be a desirable collector’s item.

Price: $10,800 

5. ROLEX MILGAUSS 116400GV & 116400

If the Submariner is the cool Rolex, the Milgauss, I suppose, would be the nerdy Rolex, and I mean that in a good way. The Milgauss, like the Submariner, dates back to the 1950s but was designed for a very different purpose. The Rolex Milgauss is known for its ability to resist magnetic fields up to 1,000 gauss, hence the name “Milgauss” (a combination of “mille,” the French word for “thousand,” and “gauss”). 

The Milgauss was designed for engineers and technicians. The collection was out of production for a couple of decades but was brought back in 2007. However, it’s since been discontinued again, which might create the perfect limited supply environment to make it an investment opportunity or collection item. 

This timepiece is nicely suited for smaller wrists and will comfortably slide under a dress shirt. The stainless steel case measures 36mm, sits on the wrist at 13.5mm thick, and is 48mm lug-to-lug. The 116400GV variant offers a handsome green-tinted crystal paired with a matt black dial, and includes a striking orange lightning bolt seconds hand.

The black dial sports two-tone luminous indicators. It also comes with a blue-green dial option. The 116400 offers a white dial with orange luminous indices and the same orange lightning bolt seconds hand, which pops more against the white background. 

The watch is powered by the Rolex 3131 automatic movement with a 48-hour power reserve and is COSC-certified with a 100-meter water resistance. This model includes the Easy-Link system and raised Rolex crown. It’s paired with a three-link bracelet with contrasting center polished links and brushed satin outer links.

Market Price for the 116400GV: $10,877, Market Price for the 116400: $9,444 

6. ROLEX SEA-DWELLER “TRIPLE SIX” 16660

The Sea-Dweller is a collection from Rolex, a close sibling to the Submariner, but a beefier watch for professional divers. It was first released in 1967 and known initially as the Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000. The initial models were created in partnership with the French diving company Comex (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises), and those are some of the rarest, desired by collectors. 

While similar in design to the Submariner, the Sea-Dweller has always been a larger and thicker timepiece due to the added features like a helium escape valve (HEV) and rugged construction to withstand the sometimes-rough environments of deep-sea expeditions. 

The “Triple Six” version, a reference to the three consecutive sixes in the reference number, is now considered a vintage model. Its production years ran from 1978 to 1989. The stainless steel case of the Triple Six measures 40mm, has a height on the wrist of 14.8mm, and is 49.7mm from lug to lug. The watch has a unidirectional black aluminum bezel insert. Earlier versions offer a matte black dial with painted hour markers (giving it a more vintage look), while later versions have a more modern glossy dial with applied white gold hour markers. 

Inside the Triple Six, one will find Rolex’s 3035 automatic movement. The movement features include hour, minute, seconds, and quickset date. There’s a screw-down crown with a water resistance of 4,000 feet. There’s also a helium escape valve and a flat sapphire crystal. The timepiece is paired with a three-link Oyster bracelet.

Market Price: $12,125 

7. ROLEX EXPLORER II 16570

In 1953, the Rolex Explorer was first introduced to commemorate the ascent of Mount Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. The Explorer ref. 1016 was worn by Ian Fleming, the author of the James Bond novels, who, during the Second World War, served as a real-life British spy. 

The Explorer II 16570 is a no-nonsense sports watch. Its production years were from the 1990s through the 2000s. In contrast to the current Explorer II, which is sized at 42mm, this version is more modestly sized at 40mm, making it a more versatile watch, which is more likely to comfortably fit all wrist sizes. It sits on the wrist at 12.5mm thick and has a lug width of 20mm.

The brushed steel bezel is a nod to ’70s sports watches, and Rolex has continued that tradition with this collection through the decades. The bezel is a fixed 24-hour that works in conjunction with a GMT hand. The dial is a crisp polar white with black hands and indices. There’s also a Cyclops date window at 3 o’clock.

Powering the watch is Rolex’s 3185 automatic movement with a 50-hour power reserve. The timepiece has a solid case back, a signed crown, and a water resistance of 100 meters. Paired with a three-link Oyster bracelet with a folding clasp, this watch model is fast becoming a classic. 

Market Price: $8,116 

8. ROLEX SUBMARINER 16610

The Submariner 16610 perfectly straddles the line between vintage and modern. Its production years were between 1987 and 2010. The stainless steel case measures 40mm, with a thickness of 13mm and a lug-to-lug measurement of 47.5mm. This model bridges two eras from the original tool watch days of Submariner’s early life to its first redesign as a luxury timepiece. 

This watch simply covers all the bases. It’s vintage, it’s modern, and it’s all Rolex. The aluminum bezel is paired with a matte black dial. The watch features the classic Mercedes hands, white incites, and the Cyclops date window at 3 o’clock. 

On the inside of the watch is Rolex’s 3135 automatic movement with a power reserve of 48 hours. It offers a screw-down crown and a water resistance of up to 300 meters. The timepiece is paired with an Oyster bracelet, with a folding clasp and extension system. This is a classic version of a classic model and deserves to be considered a collector’s item. 

Market Price: $9,608

9. ROLEX GMT-MASTER II 16710

The GMT-Master II has its roots in the original GMT-Master from the 1950s. As previously noted, the Master was created for Pan Am pilots, but those weren’t the only ones who adopted this famous Rolex model; it was also picked up by NASA and US Air Force pilots, in addition to world travelers.

The GMT II’s production years were from 1989 through 2007. This model was nicknamed “Pepsi”, because of its red and blue bezel. The timepiece offers a black dial with Mercedes hands and white indices. There’s also a Cyclops date window at 3 o’clock. The stainless steel case measures 40mm, sits on the wrist at 12mm thick, and has a lug width of 20mm.

Under the hood, the watch is powered by Rolex’s caliber 3185 (later models had the 3186). Besides time and date, the watch featured a 24-hour hand and hacking seconds. The model could be paired with an Oyster bracelet or a Jubilee.

Market Price: $12,870

10.  ROLEX EXPLORER II “STEVE MCQUEEN” 1655

The GMT-Master was for the masters of the air, the Submariner for kings of the sea, the Daytona the champions of the road, and the Explorer II was a sports watch for everyone else. 

As previously discussed, the Explorer was designed for cave and volcano explorers but was broadly just a sports watch for anyone that liked to play as hard as they worked. Its production years were between 1971 and 1984. At the time, it didn’t find an audience, with its atypical Rolex styling, and wasn’t one of the more popular Rolex models, but it has since become a cult favorite among collectors. 

The stainless steel case measures 39mm, sits on the wrist at 13.4mm, and has a lug width of 20mm. The watch features a stainless steel bezel and black dial with a domed crystal and Cyclops date window at 3 o’clock. The timepiece has white hour, minute, and seconds hands. The seconds hand is lollipop-style, and there’s an orange GMT hand.  

Under the hood is Rolex’s 1570 automatic movement with a 48-hour power reserve. The watch was water resistant to 100 meters and includes an Oyster bracelet with a folding clasp. Because of the limited numbers produced, this watch has become a popular classic. 

Market Price: $27,966 

Parting Thoughts

Rolex is the king of luxury watches, and they have the crown to prove it. In recent years they have especially enjoyed a low inventory and high demand market, many of their models with waiting list requirements of multiple years. This has driven up the price of Rolex watches in the gray and pre-owned markets. 

Few watches can hold their value like Rolex. Many Rolex models have also proved to be excellent investments, increasing considerably in value. In this article, we’ve outlined ten models we especially like that we think are worth considering as collector items. Of course, ultimately, one must decide for themselves. We hope this article has at least armed you with enough information to make a more informed decision.

Few watches have more mystique surrounding them than the Rolex Explorer. A predecessor to the Explorer, a modified Oyster Perpetual with luminescent Arabic numerals, was actually on Sir Edmund Hillary’s when he became the first person to summit Mt. Everest. How’s that for a legend? 

Since its official launch in 1953, the Explorer has been worn by all types of watch lovers. It’s been a spelunking tool for adventurers, and it was the favorite watch of James Bond Author Ian Fleming. Some even suggest, based on a few sentences in one of Fleming’s books, that the Explorer was the original watch worn by the literary version of  Bond himself.

Despite the Explorer’s adventurous roots, it’s rightly considered one of the most versatile models in the Rolex catalog. While it definitely has those steel sports chops that so many love about Rolex, it can blend in just as well as a dress watch under your cuff. 

The Explorer is a classically styled, robust, and versatile watch. That’s exactly why it’s so sought after. That’s also why it can be so difficult to get one. With waiting lists that can last for years at Rolex dealers, and the secondary market prices rising fast, you may want to consider a nice alternative to the Explorer.

About the Rolex Explorer

The Rolex Explorer has a rich and fascinating history that spans back to the early days of mountaineering expeditions. In the 1950s, Rolex collaborated with several mountaineers to create a timepiece that could withstand the harsh conditions of high-altitude climbing. The result was a watch that quickly became a favorite of adventurers and explorers around the world.

As mentioned above, the first Rolex Explorer was released in 1953, and it was an instant success among mountain climbers and explorers. It featured a sturdy Oyster case, a self-winding movement, and luminous hands and hour markers for easy readability in low-light conditions. The watch was also water-resistant, making it suitable for wet and snowy environments.

Rolex Explorer Fun Facts

One of the reasons that the Rolex Explorer has such a big following is its illustrious list of owners. Among them, aside from Sir Edmund Hillary, is Ian Fleming, author of the James Bond novel series. What’s more, many claim that the first Rolex that Fleming attributed to Bond in a novel was an “Oyster Perpetual with large luminous numerals”. At the time, the only Rolex model that fit that description was the famed Explorer reference 1016, which Fleming himself had on the wrist. 

What to Look For in a Rolex Explorer Alternative

If you’re looking for a watch with a similar style and quality to the Explorer without the hefty price tag, read on. Here are some things to consider when searching for an alternative to the Rolex Explorer.

For starters, consider the movement. The Rolex Explorer uses an in-house automatic movement, which is renowned for its precision and reliability. Look for watches with a similar quality movement from reputable manufacturers like Seiko or ETA.

Secondly, examine the materials used in the watch. The Rolex Explorer uses high-quality stainless steel for its case and bracelet, with scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protecting the dial. Look for alternatives with similar materials and craftsmanship, such as titanium or ceramic cases and sapphire crystal glass.

Thirdly, consider the design of the watch. The Rolex Explorer has a simple yet elegant design with a black dial and minimalistic hour markers. Look for watches with a similar design aesthetic and unique features that set them apart from other watches on the market.

Finally, consider the brand reputation and customer service. Look for brands with a history of producing quality watches and offering excellent customer service. Read reviews and ask for recommendations from fellow watch enthusiasts. We think the following list checks all of those boxes and more.

The Best Rolex Explorer Alternatives

1. Tudor Ranger (ref. M79950-0001)

Tudor has quite the back catalog from which to choose. The Tudor Ranger is one of the most obvious examples of this competitive advantage. Taking obvious design cues from the famed Rolex Explorer reference 1016, the Tudor Ranger is quite the rugged steel piece in its own right. 

With classic lumed 3 6, 9, and 12 Arabic indices, a signed screw-down crown offering 100 meters of water resistance, and a near-perfect 39mm diameter, the Ranger couldn’t possibly be a better Rolex Explorer alternative than it already is. What’s more, available on either a steel oyster style bracelet, a hybrid rubber and leather strap, or a classic nato strap, the watch works with just about any style.

2. Omega Railmaster (ref. 220.10.40.20.01.001)

The original 1957 Railmaster was developed for use by rail workers, scientists, and anyone else who worked near strong magnetic or electrical fields. It was designed to withstand up to 1,000 gauss without losing any time.

Today, most luxury watches are designed with this type of magnetic resistance in mind. But that doesn’t make the Railmaster any less special. It has a beautiful classic dial design, harkening back to some of the first Seamasters.

Furthermore, it has a comfortable case size of 40mm, an impressive water resistance of 150 meters, and a classic Omega steel bracelet. It also has beautifully executed Arabic 3, 6, 9, and 12 indices. You couldn’t ask for much more in a classically beautiful steel sports watch from a name that commands respect.

3. IWC Spitfire (ref. IW326801)

IWC has always been known for its amazing pilot watches. Gorgeous references like this Spitfire are exactly why that reputation continues to this day. The easy-to-read dial is the first thing you may notice, but there’s so much more to this watch just beneath the surface. 

IWC’s in-house caliber 32110 movement offers a beautifully finished 21-jewel mechanical work of art that produces an incredible 72 hours of power reserve. The 39mm size, convex anti-reflective sapphire crystal, and convenient date window make this one of the best everyday watches available for the price. It’s hard to go wrong with any watch from IWC; this one is a real looker.

4. Bell & Ross  BR V1-92

Bell & Ross is a greatly underappreciated watch, which also makes them a great deal. This model is a great alternative to the Rolex Explorer, especially for those who want a slightly larger watch. At 41mm, it’s great for almost any sized wrist but works especially great for those who might find the Explorer a bit too diminutive at 36 or 39mm. It also has the added benefit of a rotating timing bezel, which is something you won’t find on the Explorer. 

With Super-LumiNova-coated Arabic numerals, 100 meters of water resistance, and a gorgeous black calfskin strap, you won’t be left out with this beauty on your wrist. It also has a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, so don’t be afraid to take this one hiking, swimming, or anywhere else you may roam.

5. Tudor Black Bay 36 (ref. M79500-0007)

Much is made of the iconic Black Bay 58, but the Black Bay 36 is no slouch. As the name would suggest, it has a classic size of 36mm, making it the same size as the original Rolex Explorer 1016. However, the Black Bay 36 also boasts a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, a signed screw-down crown offering 150 meters of water resistance, and 38 hours of power reserve. 

With a movement based on the bulletproof ETA 2824-2, this watch is just as good for daily wear as it is for international espionage. Giving it an extra boost is the fact that it shares a strong link with Rolex in both heritage and market cache.

6. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra (ref. 220.10.38.20.01.001)

The Aqua Terra is perhaps the most versatile watch in Omega’s entire catalog. While it retains the classic Seamaster DNA with dagger indices and 150 meters of water resistance, it gives off a more refined look that blends in at a cocktail party better than a clunky diver. 

It has an AR-coated sapphire crystal, a gorgeous display caseback, and Omega’s patented coaxial escapement, making it a high-tech stunner. The “just right” 38mm case size, coupled with the textured striped dial, make this one of the coolest watches on the market. Add the convenient date function and 55-hour power reserve, and the Seamaster Aqua Terra beats all comers.

7. Longines Conquest Automatic (ref. L3.776.4.58.6)

If you’re looking for the perfect alternative to the 39mm Rolex Explorer, look no further. Longines have created a great option with many of the same characteristics as the Rolex, but with a little bit of its own personality. 

Large Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 and a date window at 3 o’clock give this watch a balanced and legible look. It also has an impressive water resistance of 300 meters, a screw-down crown with ample crown guards, and a hefty power reserve of 64 hours. The diminutive 39mm size makes for a great dress or sports watch on the go.

8. Oris Classic Date (ref. 01 733 7594 4034-07 8 20 61)

Oris is one of those watch brands that seems to be underrated by many watch collectors, but that allows for some great deals. The Oris Classic Date is a beautiful dress-style watch that also works great with a casual outfit. This silver dial beauty includes Arabic 3, 9, and 12 indices and a great size of 42mm.

The jubilee-style bracelet is flashy yet classy, and the display caseback allows you to view the gorgeous automatic movement under the sapphire crystal. This watch is pure class. While it might look a little dressier than some other options on this list, it still gives off those Explorer feels.

9. Sinn 556a

Sinn makes some great utilitarian tool watches at reasonable prices. The 556a is no exception. It has solid stainless steel construction, lumed 3, 6, 9, and 12 Arabic indices, and a supple leather strap. Few watches carry so many of the characteristics of the Rolex Explorer but with so much of its own personality. 

The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and 200 meters of water resistance make this a really rugged watch with classic styling. This one seems just as comfortable in the water as it does at 10,000 feet.

10. Ball Engineer II Ohio (ref. NM2026C-S5J-BK)

Ball is a brand inextricably linked to the history of railroad and railroad timing. That’s why this model is called the Engineer II. It has great looks, including a mix of dagger indices, Arabic numerals, and a day date function. It also has a water resistance of 100 meters and a diameter of 40mm, making it a great everyday watch. 

Similar to the Omega Railmaster, also on this list, the Engineer II Ohio takes some of the best features of a dive watch. It seamlessly adds them to a classic railroad timing watch to offer the perfect hybrid option.

11. Seiko Alpinist SPB117

The Seiko Alpinist is a highly respected model by not just Seiko aficionados but also the watch greater watch-collecting world. With its gorgeous handset and classic design, it’s definitely a great option for exploring any environment. While it’s available in multiple colorways, this black dial model gives vintage vibes with a cool and modern twist. 

While it’s a great-looking watch, this Alpinist model has some serious outdoor street cred. It’s got a screw-down crown with 200 meters of water resistance and a sapphire crystal. It also has a mineral crystal caseback allowing you to see the solid Seiko automatic movement, which boasts an impressive power reserve of 70 hours. The watch has a perfect size of 39.5mm, making it big enough for legibility, but it still offers the compact comfort of a good field watch.

12. Fortis Spacematic (ref. 623.10.18.LP.10)

Fortis makes a lot of really great watches. The Spacematic is one of the best. It has a straightforward design and a great engine under the hood. It has a Swiss automatic movement, 100 meters of water resistance, and hits the 40mm sweet spot of diameter. The large 12, 6, and 9 Arabic numerals make the dial attractive and easy to read. 

What’s more, the Spacematic also includes a convenient day date function, which a lot of simple watches like this one don’t usually have. Fortis gives you a lot of bang for the buck with this great Rolex Explorer alternative.

13. Smiths Everest

The original Smiths Everest is a watch closely tied to the Rolex Explorer. It’s said that Edmund Hillary carried both a Rolex and a Smiths watch to the summit of Everest. The fact that he apparently wore neither hasn’t stopped either brand from claiming to be the first watch at the summit. 

This current Everest model is a throwback to those early days of mountaineering. It has a classic size of 36mm and lumed Arabic numerals at 3, 6, and 9. It also includes a water resistance of 100 meters, automatic movement, and highly convenient drilled lugs. If you want a watch closely tied to the Rolex Explorer but don’t want to explore your wallet too much to buy it, then the Smiths Everest is the watch for you.

14. Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic 3.6.9

Nivada Grenchen, similar to Smiths, is a brand that was popular in the early 20th century and has been recently resurrected under a new ownership group. The Super Antarctic 3.6.9. shares quite a lot design-wise with the classic Rolex Explorer reference 1016. 

From the faux patina to the lumed Arabic numerals, Nivada Grenchen opted for a highly nostalgic aesthetic with this model. It includes an automatic movement with 38 hours of power reserve, a diameter of 38mm, and 100 meters of water resistance. While it may look vintage, the AR-coated sapphire glass reminds you that this is a high-quality modern watch with vintage looks.

15. Lorier Falcon SIII

Lorier makes microbrand watches with the feel of a heritage brand. The Falcon SIII offers the perfect mix of vintage and modern vibes. While it takes design cues from the Rolex Explorer and other classic field watches, it updates that aesthetic with a more contemporary textured dial and all the trappings of a modern steel sports grail piece. 

It has a classic size of 36mm, a Japanese automatic movement, a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, Super-LumiNova on the Arabic numerals, 100 meters of water resistance, and three micro-adjustment positions on the clasp. This little watch really packs a punch.

Conclusion

While the iconic Rolex Explorer can never truly be replicated, it’s possible to find an affordable alternative that shares a bit of the Explorer’s basic identity. Ruggedness is one of the most important aspects of the Rolex Explorer’s DNA, and that’s what every watch on the list above has in spades. Everything else is window dressing, and it’s up to you to decide what other features of the watch are important to you. 

Regardless of which one you choose, you’re sure to get years of enjoyment out of every single one of these watches on our list. Maybe you should even grab more than one. After all, what’s the fun of life if you don’t spend it exploring? 

Many watches are coined iconic, but only a few really deserve that classification. The Rolex Datejust has truly been an icon in the Crown’s catalog since its introduction in 1945. It was initially introduced to celebrate the 40th anniversary of Rolex. 

The first, ref.4467, was introduced with a full yellow gold case, only offered on the Jubilee bracelet, and featured a tan-white dial. 

The Datejust was the first wristwatch to feature an automatically changing date function. Various iterations have been made over the years, some sportier, some dressier, but all made to the high specifications of the Swiss watch giant. 

About the Rolex Datejust

Rolex was not always called Rolex; in fact, it was introduced as Wilsdorf & Davis in 1905 and changed its name to Rolex in 1908. Wilsdorf & Davis was founded in England. However, the name transition took place at the same time it moved to Switzerland. 

Fast forward to 1945, and Rolex introduced a timepiece that would revolutionize the mechanics of automatic watches and the entire horology industry. The Datejust was introduced as the first automatic watch to feature a date function. 

In typical Rolex fashion, the first Datejust did not even feature the word “Datejust” on the dial but was rather called the ‘Rolex Oyster Perpetual’. The ‘Datejust’ name finally made a permanent appearance somewhere in the 1950s. 

The Datejust has seen numerous changes over the years, with hundreds of different configurations available. Fittingly, the Datejust has found itself on the wrists of some incredible people throughout history, like the 14th Dalai Lama (Tenzin Gyatso), Dwight D. Eisenhower, Winston Churchill, Michael Jordan, and Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. 

Rolex Datejust Characteristics

The Datejust and Daydate are some of the most customizable models in the Rolex catalog, with several hundred versions sold over the decades. 

The materials used for the Datejust have changed from its yellow gold roots and now include rose gold, red gold, white gold, 316L stainless steel, platinum, and a two-tone combination of gold with steel. While there are plenty of options for materials used, there are only two bracelet options – the Jubilee and the Oyster. 

While the fluted bezel is synonymous with Rolex, the Datejust also features various other bezel options. You can specify your Datejust with a smooth and diamond-set bezel. And let’s not forget the Turn-O-Graph bezel. The Datejust also comes in several sizes: 26mm, 28mm, 31mm, 34mm (known as the Rolex Date), 36mm, and 41mm to fit contemporary tastes. 

Who Has Worn the Datejust?

As any watch enthusiast will tell you, we all have a bit of a guilty pleasure in looking at who is wearing what, particularly famous individuals. With the Datejust being one of Rolex’s oldest models, the Datejust has seen wrist action on plenty of prominent figures over the decades. 

Several American presidents have worn the Datejust, including Eisenhower and Reagan. Dr. Martin Luther King was spotted on several occasions wearing the Datejust ref. 1601, and British Prime Minister Winston Churchill was given the 100,000th officially certified chronometer by Rolex – a 36mm Datejust with a fluted white gold bezel. 

Film characters have also worn this iconic timepiece, such as Paul Newman portraying Eddie Felson in The Color of Money. Matthew McConaughey also wears a two-tone Datejust in the Wolf of Wall Street as he portrays Mark Hanna. So, if you were looking to get yourself a Datejust, you certainly are in great company. But which one is right for you? 

15 Best Datejust Models

1. Rolex Datejust 126334 Bright Black

We kick off the list with one of the modern classics featuring everything that makes the Datejust special. The elegant 41mm Oyster case holds the Bright Black dial featuring white hour markers, making for great legibility. 

The archetypal 18 c White Gold fluted bezel not only looks stunning but also aids in giving the timepiece its 100m of water resistance. This particular reference is offered on the Oyster bracelet, but you can find a few online that feature the Jubilee bracelet as well. 

Internally, the watch is powered by the chronometer-certified Rolex caliber 3235, featuring a 70-hour power reserve. According to the Rolex website, the Datejust 126334 has a retail price of $10,500, and an unworn example will typically run you more than $13,000 on the second-hand market.

2. Rolex Datejust 126200 Olive Green Palm Motif

This 36mm Datejust 126200 features an extraordinary Green Palm Motif dial first released at Watches & Wonders back in 2021. The rest of the watch is pretty ordinary, finished in steel, and is accented by a smooth bezel. This allows all the attention to be drawn to the green dial.

While patterns may sometimes throw off legibility, the Palm Motif of this Datejust features bold white hour markers ensuring the watch does not lose functionality. Furthermore, the 36mm case is the same as the first Datejust from 1945 and is also the perfect size for most wrists today. 

Timekeeping duties are dealt with by the new-generation caliber 3235, constructed from nickel-phosphorus, ensuring the watch is resistant to errors due to magnetic fields. This particular reference has a retail price of $7,700, but you’ll be lucky to find it below $12,000.

3. Rolex Datejust 278274 Azzurro Blue

If you’re looking for a Datejust that does not apologize for drawing attention to itself, the Azzurro Blue dial Datejust is the one for you. While the case size of 31mm is subtle, the rest of this reference 278274, certainly is not. 

The watch is finished in white Rolesor, denoting the stainless steel case and the white gold fluted bezel. The Jubilee bracelet is also finished in steel, but your attention will primarily be drawn to the diamond-set dial. 

The Azzurro Blue Floral Motif contains 24 diamonds within 18ct gold settings and was only recently introduced at Watches & Wonders 2022.

4. Rolex Datejust 126303 White

The combination of yellow gold and steel is a timeless look, and one Rolex calls Yellow Rolesor – a portmanteau of ‘Rol’ (from Rolex) and the French word ‘or’, which means gold. This reference 126303 is presented in beautiful Rolesor and features a smooth gold bezel. 

The white dial is accentuated with yellow gold-tone hands and index hour markers, all filled with Rolex’s proprietary Chromalight lume for nighttime legibility. The two-tone bracelet features the Oysterlock clasp, making for an easy and safe wearing experience. 

Being a modern 41mm Datejust, it features the chronometer-certified caliber 3235, a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and a screw down granting this timeless classic 100m of water resistance. You can pick up this watch for $14,250 at retail; however, you’ll be paying a premium on the second-hand market.

5. Rolex Datejust 126234 Bright Blue Fluted Motif

If you prefer your Datejust to have a little dimensional tone, perhaps you should look at the recently introduced Fluted Motif. Represented here on a Datejust 36 in a blue finish, the Fluted Motif creates presence by using a geometric pattern on the fluted bezel. 

The bezel is, of course, finished in 18 c white gold, but interestingly enough, this specific reference is offered on either the Jubilee or Oyster bracelet. Personally, I prefer the Jubilee because there just isn’t a more exemplary bracelet. 

This watch is offered either with diamond-set hour markers or, for those who prefer a subtler approach, you can opt for white gold hour markers. Whichever you end up going for, this 36mm Datejust is a modern classic with a stunning dial finish. 

6. Rolex Datejust 278289RBR Mother of Pearl

The original lady Datejust was released in a petite size back in 1957. Modern taste prefers slightly larger watches, so the 31mm Datejust variant could be considered a lady Datejust even though it is classified as a ‘mid-sized’ watch, according to the Crown. 

Fitting in with the larger size, this reference 278289RBR features stunning characteristics you won’t find on every wrist. Not only is the dial finished in a Mother of Pearl fashion, but it is also set with diamond hour markers. 

To place the watch among the most stylish of timepeices, the bezel is also set with diamonds. The entire case and President’s bracelet are finished in 18 c white gold, yet the watch retains its usability with 100m of water resistance.

7. Rolex Datejust 126300 Mint Green

The Rolex green has become synonymous with the company, and the mint green dial represented here has become a favorite among seasoned collectors and enthusiasts alike. It’s shown here in a 41mm case finished in Oystersteel, a steel from the 904L family. 

The watch is presented on the famed Jubilee bracelet, which matches seamlessly with the domed bezel. The watch is also a mere 11.7mm thick, making it easy to slide under most shirt cuffs. A 47.6mm lug-to-lug measurement means this Datejust wears like a proper 41mm and will fit most wrists perfectly. 

As with all other modern Datejust 41’s, the watch is powered by Rolex’s caliber 3235. COSC or ‘Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres’ certified with a -2 / +2 seconds per day precision after casing. The retail on this reference is $14,700, but as with all other Rolex watches, you will have to pay slightly more on the second-hand market. 

8. Rolex Datejust 126231 Slate

Roger Federer, the world-renowned Swiss tennis player, is one of the few athletes sponsored by Rolex. It would then come as no surprise that the watch community has given this slate-colored Datejust the nickname ‘Wimbledon”. With an ideal size of 36mm, this two-toned Datejust is set to become a cult classic.

Constructed from Oystersteel and Everose Gold (Rolex’s rose gold), this timepiece is aesthetically pleasing and remarkably robust. The dial is also given more presence with a sunray finish and black Roman numeral hour markers with a rich green outline. Priced slightly higher than other Datejusts at $15,500 retail, you’ll also be expected to pay even more due to market value.

9. Rolex Datejust 278278 Black Mother of Pearl

The Black Mother of Pearl dial is something to behold, with a lustrous coloring and a dark silky finish. The dial featured on reference 278278 is also set with 11 diamonds, filling the “VI” at the 6 o’clock position. The other Roman Numerals and coronet are set in 18 c yellow gold. 

In fact, the entire case and President bracelet are finished in 18 c yellow gold, as well as the fluted bezel. A timeless design elevated with diamonds, precious metals, and a seamless blend of artistry and technical craftsmanship. 

Ticking away within the 31mm case is the caliber 2236, chronometer-certified and resistant to magnetic fields. Not that you would wear a diamond set Datejust into the field, but it grants you peace of mind that this timepiece is not just all show. 

10. Rolex Datejust 126331 Slate Fluted Motif

The Datejust has been in production since 1945 but has benefited from modern technology. Introduced in 2021, the Slate Fluted Motif dial you see on this reference 126331 is produced using femtosecond laser techniques, a low-temperature technique used to engrave the surface. 

Measuring 41mm in diameter, this Datejust not only fits contemporary taste but also creates a bold impression with its steel and rose gold construction. The dial features white hour markers lined in 18 c rose gold, and the hands are completely set in rose gold and feature luminance. 

The fluted bezel elevates the fluted motif even more, and the two-tone Oyster bracelet accentuates the lasting design. Internally, the watch is powered by the Rolex caliber 3235, equipped with a 70-hour power reserve. 

11. Rolex Datejust 126233 Golden Fluted Motif

If you have around $12,000 burning a hole in your pocket and you’re in the market for a watch that’ll last you a lifetime, perhaps the Rolex Datejust reference 126233 could solve your problem. 

Presented in a bi-metal finish consisting of Oystersteel and yellow gold, this timepiece has the makings of a future classic. Featuring the newly introduced Fluted Motif on the dial in a golden fashion to match the gold fluted bezel. 

The case appears on the Jubilee bracelet, a staple in the Rolex catalog. As with every single other Rolex, the watch is designed to be spectacular to look at and built to a standard that ensures technical and constructive reliability. 

The retail on a reference 126233 is around $12,100, but you can expect to pay slightly more for a second-hand version due to market value. 

12. Rolex Datejust 278275 Silver Floral Motif

The opulent Floral Motif dial finish was introduced to the 31mm Datejust family at Watches & Wonders 2022 in three color variations. This reference 278275 features a silver finish in full Everose gold. 

Upon closer inspection, you’ll notice that each flower has a single diamond set in the center. For the mathematically inclined, there is a total of 24 diamonds on the dial, perhaps a subtle nod to the 24 hours within a day. 

The fluted bezel and President bracelet make this variation even more unique, and yet the watch retains its 100m of water resistance. Behind the mesmerizing dial beats the caliber 2236, a self-winding mechanical movement featuring a 55-hour power reserve. 

13. Vintage Rolex Datejust 1601

If you prefer your Datejust with a little patina and featuring a vintage-inspired acrylic crystal, perhaps a reference 1601 would suit your needs. Featuring classic Datejust proportions with a 36mm diameter and an 11.7 thickness, this particular reference is already a classic. 

Part of the fame comes from being the last reference to feature an acrylic crystal. The other reason is the versatility of the watch. Available in steel, yellow gold, rose gold, or a combination of those, but always featuring a fluted bezel finished in either yellow, rose, or white gold. 

While the water resistance is rated at 100m, being a vintage piece, you must have the watch’s water resistance checked and certified before diving. Internally, the watch is powered by the caliber 1565 or caliber 1575, the latter being more robust and offering a quick-set function for the date. 

As you might expect from the crown, the reference 1601 came with numerous dial finishes, ranging from silver to golden sunburst, but also includes more colorful variations like blue and gray. 

14. Vintage Rolex Datejust Oysterquartz

In the 70s, the Swiss watch industry was hit with a bit of a dilemma – Japanese quartz movements. Japanese watch giant Seiko released The Astron in December 1969. Quartz watches, of course, do not require an automatic movement and are incredibly accurate – way more than anything Rolex was producing at the time. 

Swiss watch stocks fell rapidly, and while certain companies released some of their most legendary pieces in that time, thanks to Gerald Genta, Rolex tried something else. 

They released the Oysterquartz in 1977. A quartz-powered Rolex featuring an integrated bracelet and a beautifully designed case, ready to take on the rise of far cheaper Japanese watches. 

The design for the watch began in 1972, and merely 25 years after its introduction, it was removed from the Rolex catalog. It is estimated that only 25,000 of these models were created. 

That said, you will likely find several that suit your style. It came with several different dial colors, fluted and smooth bezels, and a linear version of either the Jubilee or Oyster bracelet. 

Personally, the blue Rolex used for these models has evolved beautifully over time, and the watch design fits perfectly with modern tastes for sports watches. 

15. Vintage Rolex Datejust 16234

The reference 16234 is a classic and timeless Datejust, with everything you know and love about the model line. A 36mm elegant size, with 100m of water resistance for wearability, and comes in all different kinds of variations. 

It was also the first reference to use a Sapphire crystal, which is the industry standard today. Produced from the late 80s to early 2000s, the timepiece had two main calibers within – either the 3035 or 3135. 

If you find a watch produced before 1997, you’ll be rejoiced to learn that it can pick up patina because it uses luminous tritium material. You can have your Datejust with diamonds, Roman numerals, baton markers, or Arabic numerals. 

The price you would pay for one of these is the same as with every other vintage watch; it depends. It depends on whether or not it is a complete set, the condition of the piece, if the lume has been replaced, etc. 

Conclusion

If you feel slightly overwhelmed by all the options, don’t worry – we all do. The amount of Datejust options is so vast that it is nearly impossible not to find one for you to fall in love with. Whether you prefer your watch with more sporty or dressy credentials, there is a Rolex Datejust to suit your every need. 

A generally-accepted trope in the watch world is that Rolex is an innovator. Every time Rolex releases an all-new timepiece, you can rest assured that there will be something uniquely pioneering about that watch. The Sky-Dweller is no exception. In fact, this watch may be Rolex’s most understated flex of the century. 

Defined by its technical ingenuity while still holistically representative of the Rolex style, the Sky-Dweller is at once the Swiss giant’s most complicated movement (next to the Yachtmaster II) and one of its most elegant. Regardless of whether you’re a Rolex person or not, I would assert that by the end of this article, you’ll be, at the very least, moderately fascinated with the idea of a Sky-Dweller on your wrist.

Built For Travel – The Story Of The Sky-Dweller

The Sky-Dweller is a watch that, in many ways, defies categorization. It combines practicality with luxurious design and (insane) mechanical complexity. Yet, it feels somewhat understated, devoid of the extra pushers or bezel-mania that Rolex’s more complex movements usually exhibit. Initially released in 2012, the Sky-Dweller was Rolex’s first all-new watch drop since the Yachtmaster was unveiled 20 years earlier, in 1992. 

Originally only available in precious metals, the newbie was far less accessible than many would have liked, with a price tag representing a breakthrough movement and the 18k gold that encased it. However, in 2017, taking pity on the little man, Rolex introduced two new, mostly-steel versions of the Sky-Dweller, making for a more affordable and practical daily wearer.

Hidden In Plain Sight – A Masterpiece Unraveled

As if one isn’t enough, the Sky-Dweller’s 9001 movement boasts a combination of two complications: a dual-time zone (or GMT function) and an annual calendar. The GMT function allows the wearer to display two different time zones simultaneously on the same watch.

The annual calendar function ensures that the watch automatically adjusts to the correct date for all 30 and 31-day months. This is displayed beneath scratch-resistant sapphire as a red-fill in a small window on the relative hour marker. Design genius, pure and simple. 

Practically speaking, this means you’ll only have to make one manual date adjustment per year. Additionally, the Sky-Dweller’s Ring Command Bezel, first introduced in the Yachtmaster II, adds a wonderfully discreet layer of functionality to the watch.

All of these details create a timepiece that is both practical and luxurious, suitable for world travelers, business professionals, and watch enthusiasts alike. With all that said, let’s have a closer look at the various iterations of the Sky-Dweller.

The Best Rolex Sky-Dwellers

1. Rolex Sky-Dweller 326934 (Bright Blue)

The entry-level model for the Sky-Dweller is most commonly spotted with a glimmering blue dial and a case crafted from a Rolex’s own Rolesor – a fusion of Oystersteel and 18k white gold (bezel, hands, and hour markers). The result is a clinically classic aesthetic and a much lighter watch than the full-gold models, which are less resilient against daily wear and tear than steel, a factor that should be cherished on a watch this precious. 

The ref. 326934 is available on the standard Oyster bracelet or a jubilee, with the option of a black or white dial, ideal for those who prefer a monochromatic display, such as myself. Speaking of personal preference, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention that the inverted red triangle above the GMT dial looks by far most attractive when set against the blue face.

2. Rolex Sky-Dweller 326933 (Bright Black)

One of the luxury upgrades to reference 326934 sees yellow gold replacing white gold for the polarising two-tone, ‘Money Never Sleeps’ case finish. With black, white, and champagne dial color options, this one may surprisingly be the most exciting of the Sky-Dweller variations.

The watch’s bezel, winding crown, hands, hour markers, and center links of the bracelet are made of solid 18k yellow gold, bolstering the visual resemblance to the Datejust. It should be said that despite its 42mm diameter, the sloped and fluted bezel gives the watch a lower profile on the wrist, which is somehow more seamless on this two-tone reference.

Finally, the jubilee bracelet adds an understated touch of finesse, complimenting the fluting of the bezel sublimely in its patterning. However, if a jubilee strap isn’t your thing, you’re in luck – the 326933 is available on an Oyster strap, as well as with champagne and white dial options.

3. Rolex Sky-Dweller 326935 (Slate)

You wouldn’t be blamed for thinking that the 326935 was ostensibly released to showcase the beauty of Everose gold, which offers a slightly different hue and luster than traditional rose gold. The metal provides a modern versatility that Rolex has embraced and integrated into their more recent offerings – it’s precious enough to be taken seriously but unusual enough not to feel too stern. 

The Slate dial is likely the most legible of all the colors on offer for the Sky-Dweller, except the more standard (and less exciting) black variant, which is useful at any rate. With this being said, you do have the option to choose a chocolate or white dial for your 326935 should the slate be too easy to read.

The full Everose Sky-Dweller on an Oyster bracelet, featuring a slate dial, retails at $49,350, which is just enough to make your jaw tighten, but not so much that you’d say ‘never happening’. Especially if the rose gold look is your thing.

4. Rolex Sky-Dweller 326938 (Champagne)

The first full yellow gold Rolex Sky-Dweller on this list, ref. 326938 is an iconic piece in the collection. As on the aforementioned models, the latest update has replaced alternatives of more complex numerals with riveting luminous batons, enhancing the watch’s visual clarity and legibility in low-light conditions. Honestly, I think the lume looks best up against all of this gold. It just…dances. 

Unsurprisingly, the 326938 serves as an anchor for the collection, alongside the immensely popular 326934. You can’t argue with an all-gold-watch, and with the beloved champagne dial, this one really shines, figuratively and literally. However, if Champagne doesn’t suit, this reference is also available with a bright black or intense white dial. Don’t say Rolex isn’t good to you.

5. Rolex Sky-Dweller 326939

Released in 2012, the reference 326939 was part of the first trio of Sky-Dweller watches in solid 18k gold. Unlike its siblings, this model is constructed entirely from 18k white gold, giving it a more understated look with all the heft. It features a matching gold Oyster bracelet and was in production until 2018.

When it first came out, Rolex had secured no less than 11 patents relating to the movement of this, their newest watch, so to release it with anything less than a full body of precious metal would have been a disservice to the R&D department, at the very least. 

A notable visual difference between this and later references is the Roman or Arabic numeral variations, as well as the fact that only two dial colors – black and white – are available. It’s a bit more ‘mature’ at face value, thanks to the more commonly found Roman numeral versions, so bear that in mind before buying.

6. Rolex Sky-Dweller 326139

The reference 326139 shares the same solid 18k white gold case and dial options as the aforementioned 326939 but features a classic leather strap instead of an Oyster bracelet, making this an altogether more casual affair. The leather strap comes with a gold fold-over clasp which adds a touch of weight (and class), and is secured to the case with lug hoods that extend under the bezel to fill the gap between the case and the strap’s edge. 

This touch actually creates the pleasant illusion that the watch sits a bit lower on the wrist. Little things matter, and on a large-wearing 42mm reference, every micrometer counts! As with the 326939, this piece is most commonly available with either Roman or Arabic numerals on a white or black face, although chocolate and gold faces have also been spotted in the wild.

7. Rolex Sky-Dweller 326138

Rolex’s earliest solid 18k yellow gold iteration of the Sky-Dweller, reference 326138, comes with a leather strap as opposed to the expected yellow gold bracelet. It’s also available in an Everose gold variation, offering a left-of-center alternative for the more adventurous color-blockers among us. 

Like other leather and rubber Oysterflex strap models, this version benefits from lug hoods that merge case and strap seamlessly, creating a more integrated look. If you’re into complicated numerals, you can have them on this reference, but I’d stick with the plain baton indices as they gel so much better with the month display windows.

First Class, Everywhere, All The Time

Let’s call a spade a spade – the Sky-Dweller isn’t an everyman’s watch. It’s somewhat pricey, very complex, and uniquely bold. Furthermore, it’s not a watch without its negatives – a 14 mm thick timepiece will be cause for concern on most wrists, and due to its lug width, it certainly wears slightly larger than 42mm. However, I’m hyper-aware (as you should be) that the concerns of the slim-wristed are largely irrelevant when it comes to the Sky-Dweller. 

To those of you on whom this watch sits comfortably, I say congratulations, particularly if you’re a frequent traveler who can take advantage of its myriad functionalities. If, on top of that, you’re a geek for complicated movements, then there are very few timepieces that are more interesting or exciting than the Sky-Dweller.

Timeless and iconic design. Rugged reliability and comfort on the wrist. The pursuit of timekeeping excellence and a marketing machine spanning fields as varied as scientific research, film, and sport. These are the hallmarks of the Rolex brand and the foundation for which its product remains the premier Swiss luxury watchmaker.

In its over 100 years of history since its founding by Hans Wilsdorf in the early 20th century (comparatively young by watchmaker standards), Rolex as a brand has become the market-leading powerhouse with many innovations, historic firsts, and iconic model lines under its belt. 

From the first water and dustproof “oyster” case in 1926 to the “perpetual” self-winding rotor patented in 1931, the focus on rugged timepieces which could withstand the rigor of everyday life set them on course to standardizing what would eventually become today’s “sport watch” genre. In 1953, the “Oyster Perpetual Submariner” is revealed.

About the Rolex Submariner

2024 marks the 70th Anniversary of the Rolex Submariner. Debuting in 1953, though not the first of its kind (Blancpain released their Fifty Fathoms diver watch nearly 10 months prior), the reference 6204 “Submariner” was a true tool watch intended for a specific purpose: scuba diving. 

In the Post World War II era of the early 1950s, thanks to technological advancements made in the years during the war, recreational diving was experiencing a boom. Yet divers needed a way to time their dives to ensure a safe ascent. Ascend too fast, and you face the risk of decompression sickness (which could result in death).

Stay down too long, and you might not have enough air to ensure a timely ascent. However, technology was limited at the time, and the recreational diver relied on simple tools such as depth gauges and decompression tables. The dive watch was then the perfect solution for measuring time. 

Rolex Submariner Characteristics

So what makes a Rolex Submariner? As a dive watch, there are three important factors for utility (Note: we won’t touch ISO 6425 dive watch standards here): Water resistance, a rotating bezel, and legibility.

Water resistance is self-explanatory (you don’t want water to flood your watch when diving), and even the ref. 6204 featured 100m of water resistance back in 1953 (300m being the standard for modern Submariners today).

A rotating bezel, operated by aligning the bezel pip to the minute hand upon the start of your timing interval, allows for accurate timing of your dive. The Submariner’s bezel displays 60 minutes along the full circumference, with hashed-out individual minute marks from 0 to 15, post-1957 (ref. 6536/1).

And finally, legibility, through luminous dial markers, hands, and lume pip, ensures the user can clearly see the watch underwater in various lighting conditions. 

The Submariner’s now iconic lume plots (rectangular indices at 3, 6, and 9; inverted triangle at 12, and circular indices at each remaining hour mark), along with the emblematic Mercedes hands (beginning 1954, ref. 6205), have become the defining characteristics of not only the Submariner line but arguably the design traits and personality of the brand’s sports models overall.

Through The Years

In the decades since, the design language and function of the Submariner line have evolved in accordance with the new technologies and materials of the day. And yet, from a design standpoint, the Submariner remains evergreen: rotating bezel, luminous indices, Mercedes hands, etc.

For example, an owner of an original Submariner from the 1950s would still recognize a modern Submariner to be the same watch, much in the way that the Porsche 911 has evolved over the years while maintaining its core DNA. 

Crown guards were added in 1959; depth ratings got deeper (from 100 and 200m to the current 300m); dials went matte to glossy; indices got bigger (“maxi” dials of the ref. 5512 and modern); corrosion-resistant 904L steel was introduced (1985); and even a date wheel version was added (ref. 1680 in 1969, along with the iconic “cyclops” window), among countless other advancements.

Today, while the many vintage variants now command their own literary dictionaries and secondary market values (“Bart Simpson”, “Swiss Exclamation Point”, “Double Swiss Underline”, “Meters first”; try explaining that to your non-watch friends), the latest generation of the Submariner maintains similar design identity.

In a newly upsized 41mm diameter case (40.6mm in actual measurement), in what was the most significant change to the model line since the jump to the “Super Case” in 2008, with “Cerachrom” ceramic bezel, maxi dial, and updated bracelet with new Glidelock clasp. 

Modern Submariners are beefy, solid, and bold in the most luxurious sense. While arguably still “tool” watches capable of true diving and built to diving spec, there is a definite sense of luxury and bling factor not attributable to pre-ceramic iterations of the past (18k Yellow Gold ref. 1680, etc. notwithstanding). 

No matter how you decide to wear them, there are eight current models available today, varying from 904L Oystersteel (with and without date) to two-tone Oystersteel and yellow gold (black and blue variants available), to full-on solid white gold (with blue bezel) or yellow gold (with black bezel).

All models now feature the 3235 base movements using the patented Chronergy escapement, combining high energy efficiency and dependability with a 70-hour power reserve. Let’s jump into it! 

1. Rolex Submariner 126610LN

The icon itself. Though the Submariner didn’t gain a date window until the ref. 1680 in 1969, it’s truly the Submariner Date that has defined the dive watch genre in the years since. In fact, its date and cyclops window has become synonymous with the Rolex brand itself.

With the introduction of the 126610LN in 2020, we have a return to form despite a jump to 41mm. Compared to the previous generation’s use of controversially thick lugs on the Super Case, we’re now presented with slimmer lugs producing a more balanced case shape down to the bracelet, achieved by widening the lug width to 21mm.

In all other dimensions, the 126610LN wears nearly identical to the last generation (importantly, 48mm lug to lug; 12.3mm thickness). However, the wider bracelet is noticeable on the wrist to the astute or those with experience wearing the 116610LN.

The clasp is now a bit larger and longer and provides 20mm of Glide Lock adjustment in 2mm increments, useful for aiding comfort throughout the day as one’s wrist swells and contracts. Finally, Anti-Reflective coating is now applied to the underside of the sapphire crystal, providing increased legibility at various angles. Available in a standard black bezel and dial configuration, the Submariner Date currently retails for $10,250.

2. Rolex Submariner 124060 “No Date”

Colloquially known as the “No Date” Submariner, the current generation 124060, which also debuted in 2020 alongside its “Submariner Date” brethren, is the true “Submariner”. Though receiving the same upgrades as the 126610LN mentioned prior, the No Date offers collectors a few important traits that make it a favorite for the truly initiated (Read: “watch nerds”).

Heritage: The No Date is a direct descendant of the very first Submariners of the 1950s, with its lack of date and hyper specificity. After all, who needs to know the date underwater?
Aesthetic Balance: The date and cyclops window is “love or hate”. If you prefer a balanced look, the No Date is your only option. Arguably, without the cyclops, the no date is also a bit more under the radar.

Rarity: Though production numbers are not made publicly known by Rolex, we can infer from available models on the secondary market that the No Date is rarer, in a near 2:1 ratio in favor of the No Date. Current retail price: $9,100

3. Rolex Submariner 126613 Two-Tone Models

Rolex debuted the first two-tone Submariner in 1984 (ref. 16803) in both black and blue variants featuring a combination of steel and yellow gold. That line continues through to the latest generation, via the blue bezel and dial 126613LB “Bluesy” and the black bezel and dial 126613LN.

With a yellow gold bezel, crown, and polished center links, the two-tone Submariner variants offer a step up in luxury for those wanting to add a bit more bling against the typical full steel models typically seen. Of note, the 126613 models now feature white dial text instead of gold text seen on the previous 116613 generations. Current retail price: $15,600

4. Rolex Submariner 126618 Solid Gold Models

For a brand as vertically integrated as Rolex, it should come as no surprise that it even makes its own gold. With an in-house foundry, Rolex can ensure strict quality assurance and material integrity. Truly, Rolex gold (in yellow, white, or Everose) is a site to behold AND hold (it’s heavy). For the ultimate in exuberance, look no further than the 126618 (black and blue variants available, 126618LN and 126618LB, respectively). Current retail price; $39,000 

5. Rolex Submariner 116610LV “Hulk”

From its debut in 2010 to its discontinuation in 2020, the 116610LV (often referred to as the “Hulk”) was the first and only Submariner with a green bezel, and dial, whose popularity and demand continue to this day on the secondary market.

Though the use of a green bezel was first applied on the 11610V “Kermit” to mark the Submariner’s 50th anniversary in 2003, the combination of the brilliant “green gold” dial along with the increased lug mass of the super case earned the 116610LV the now infamous moniker.

A darling of the secondary watch market boom in recent years, the Hulk now commands prices well above its original retail price if you’re lucky enough to find one. Hulk Smash! Last MSRP: $9,350

6. Rolex Submariner 126610LV “Cermit”

With the discontinuation of the 116610LV “Hulk” in 2020, Rolex released a new green bezel Submariner in the 126610LV. Gone was the “green gold” dial, replaced with a standard black Submariner Date dial. Collectors still debate over which version they prefer, as well as what to actually name the watch. In 2024, two names have stuck most: “Cermit” (as in, Cerachrom bezel ‘Kermit’) and “Starbucks” (based on the popular coffee retailer’s logo).

Whichever name you decide to call it, the 126610LV features all of the technical updates of the latest 41mm Submariner generation, including a new case and calibre 3235 movement with a 70-hour power reserve. The green Cerachrom bezel remains a pleasant differentiator from the standard Oystersteel models; at the very least, “bragging rights!”. Current Retail Price: $10,800

7. Rolex Submariner 126619LB White Gold “Smurf”

In 2008, Rolex released the first Submariner to feature a full 18k white gold case and bracelet to mark the brand’s 100-year anniversary. Contrasting with the white gold was a bright blue dial and Cerachrom bezel, which was quickly named the “Smurf” based on the popular cartoon (collectors love nicknames). When that super case model was discontinued, Rolex replaced it with the current 41mm diameter size 126619LB in 2020, albeit with a standard black Submariner Date dial applied instead.

Decidedly stealth wealth, the white gold could be mistaken for plain old steel from the less discerning. A true “ if you know, you know” watch, though we should really call it the “Sub Zero” now (for the Mortal Kombat fans; what did I say, we really love nicknames). Current Retail Price: $42,000

8. Vintage Rolex Submariner 6204

The first true “Submariner”, produced in 1953. Though a few standard hallmarks of current-generation Submariners are missing, all of the initial design elements were in place from the get-go, starting with the black rotating bezel and dial layout.

Relatively smaller in comparison to today’s standards with a 37mm diameter case and 5.3mm crown, the 6204 still was a serious tool watch rated to 100m water resistance. At its heart, the watch was powered by the caliber A260, Rolex’s most robust automatic movement available at the time. The gilt dial and pencil-like hands were inevitably removed upon later iterations.

9. Vintage Rolex Submariner 6538 “Big Crown”

The year is 1962. Actor Sean Connery plays the role of James Bond in the film Dr. No. A film legend and saga is born. On Connery’s wrist: A Rolex Submariner, reference 6538. The rest is history. Today, the 6538, with its oversized 8mm crown, is perhaps the most iconic and coveted of vintage Rolex sport watches due to its association with the film and character.

One particular example even sold for $492,500 at auction in Christie’s New York in December 2017. Two main variants exist; The “two-line” with two lines of text at the six o’clock position and the “four-line” with four lines of text in the same position, albeit denoting chronometer certification (the first Submariner to feature such).

10. Vintage Rolex Submariner 5514 “COMEX”

The legend of the Submariner is propped up by its association of use in the field by the military and deep-diving research teams. COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises), a leading French diving company in the 1960s and 70s, worked with Rolex to create the reference 5514 for personal use. As a watch specifically made for COMEX, the 5514 was never sold in public retail, ultimately making it among the rarest of all Submariner models ever produced.

Based on the existing ref. 5513 of the day, the 5514 features a Helium Escape Valve flanked on its left-hand case side (the only Submariner model to ever feature one), with the COMEX logo emblazoned in white just below the center of the dial. A truly rare and sought-after vintage model, examples have sold for over $100,000 in today’s market.

Conclusion

From humble tool watch beginnings to becoming the definitive and most identifiable Swiss luxury watch today, the Rolex Submariner has stood the test of time by maintaining a laser-like focus in its aesthetic design and pursuit of technical excellence.

Few other products in any category can claim such history or success, and the Rolex Submariner has earned its place alongside such undeniable icons. Which Submariner do you choose?