Category: Rolex

Rolex. The name alone is dripping with class and opulence. Their watches have adorned the wrists of hip-hop stars, presidents, prime ministers, and princes. Everyone knows the names of their icons: the Submariner, the Day-date, the GMT-Master, or at least their classic look. The brand’s logo is a crown for a reason.

Rolex had humble beginnings all the way back in 1905, founded in London by a young man named Hans Wilsdorf. Wristwatches at the time were barely starting to take off, and he sought to create small wearable timepieces that were both precise and durable. Precision, wearability, and functionality have always been at the heart of what Rolex does. 

Their Oyster case, introduced in 1926, allowed Wilsdorf to create the first-ever waterproof wristwatch. Rolex didn’t stop there. Inventions came thick and fast through the decades: one of the first automatic movements; a date function displayed through a small window in the dial; the development of special 904L steel; a new hairspring, escapement, and balance wheel design; and so much more. 

Comparing two icons from Rolex is a lot like trying to debate the superiority of Michelangelo’s sculpture of David or his work on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. Each is distinct and yet masterfully crafted.

Such is the case with the Submariner and the GMT-Master II, each of which has carved out a prominent niche in history and in the watch market today. Their functionality is distinct, but their appearance is strikingly similar. 

So which one should you pick, between the two? Whether you’re here for a thought experiment or some practical buying advice, follow along as I break down these two giants of watchmaking and get to the heart of what makes these pieces unique.

The Rolex GMT-Master II Collection

The Rolex GMT-Master collection was introduced in 1955, so it’ll be celebrating its 70th anniversary this year—making it much older than me and probably most of you reading this. This means it has an extremely long and storied history. It’s been worn by icons like Daniel Craig and Marlon Brando. 

It was originally developed to help Pan-Am pilots as they crossed time zones. That’s an airline that doesn’t even exist anymore, but the watch has lost none of its appeal as it steps effortlessly from the vintage era to the modern. It’s served wearers faithfully for generations and stood the test of time to continue as an icon of the modern era.

Its popularity has led to the creation of several affectionate nicknames for the differently-colored models of the past, such as the immensely popular GMT-Master II “Pepsi” with a bi-colored red and blue bezel which I find really charming. Anyone else suddenly craving a cold soda?

Although the essentials remain the same, the collection spans a wide range of case materials and colors, with some even adorned with copious amounts of diamonds for the blinged-out rappers among Rolex’s clientele (or the inner magpie in each of us…). 

Each one features the Rolex Super case, which has prominent crown guards and thick lugs to create a durable watch with a clean, utilitarian air to it. The case is constructed from Rolex’s “Oystersteel,” which is the 901L steel I mentioned above.

It’s less corrosive and holds a better finish than normal high-grade 316L steel, giving the GMT-Master an extremely elegant appearance that will last for a long time. 

In my opinion, the most attractive part of every GMT-Master II is the accent color that it features, both on the bezel and on the dial, which usually has a pop of color for its GMT hand and for one matching line of text on it.

All these features, the colorful elements as well as the restrained utilitarian case, combine to create a product that’s enjoyed extreme popularity for decades.

Currently, Rolex only offers 9 models in production, and several others have been phased out. Among these are the popular “Sprite” (green and black bezel), “Root Beer” (black and brown), “Batman” (blue and black), “Bruce Wayne” (all black), and an as-yet unnicknamed model with a Pepsi bezel and meteorite dial, among others.

It’s a powerful lineup, with a variety of case materials. All are 40mm in diameter, which is a solid wearable size for most wrists, and at 12.0mm thick, it’s not going to wear like an ungainly block of steel.

Before we leave our analysis of the GMT-Master II, you’re probably wondering where the “II” came from. Of course, it was first released under simply the name “GMT-Master.”

The collection experienced an important evolution in 1985, which led Rolex to introduce the number after its name. (I wonder if their other collections will ever have a change like this… a “Submariner II,” anyone?) 

The key difference here was to make the GMT hand completely independent of the hour hand. Previously, you had to use the GMT hand alongside the rotating 24-hour bezel to track a second timezone. 

Now that the GMT hand is independent, you can track a second time zone with the hand and now use the bezel to track a third at the same time. Otherwise, the watch is the same heritage-inspired beauty, just with an extra boost of functionality that is an objective change for the better.

The Rolex Submariner Collection

If any watch can go toe-to-toe with the GMT-Master II in the heritage battle, it’s the Submariner, which was introduced just one year earlier in 1953. At its release, it was the first-ever watch with 100m of water resistance, and it now can go much further underwater with 300m of water resistance. 

Unlike the GMT-Master II, the Submariner is much more subdued, with a typically black dial and its monochromatic bezel being limited to black, blue, and green. Without a doubt, the most iconic Submariner is the simple black-on-black ref. 124060 or the ref. 126610 with date. 

It’s interesting to see how the basic design of the Submariner is what makes it iconic, rather than the colors of the GMT-Master II, where the “Pepsi” is the best-known model. Overall, it’s clear that the appeal of the series is for its strong utilitarian design and tool-watch focus rather than the slightly elevated flair of the GMT-Master. 

The dive bezel of the Submariner is made of Cerachrom scratch-resistant ceramic, just like the GMT-Master, and instead of the 24-hour scale, it has a graduated timing scale for tracking the length of your dives. 

If you’re like me and you prefer to stay on dry land, its simple design means that you can easily track anything in your day-to-day life. I find it’s a nice way to get the functionality of a chronograph with a much simpler design that doesn’t have to sacrifice water resistance to add pushers.

Like the GMT-Master II, it’s also built around the Rolex Super case, with the same strong crown guards and lugs, but it’s just a hair larger at 41mm and a bit thicker at 12.5mm. All models are the same size, but they do vary in the material used and, as I mentioned before, the color of the bezel. 

Rolex GMT-Master II vs Submariner: How to Choose

Now that we’ve had a formal introduction to each of tonight’s contenders let’s get right into the matchup. Each watch is strikingly similar in a lot of ways. Both feature a rotating bezel and the Rolex Super case. Both are distinctly tool watches and are purpose-built, each for different purposes. 

Both have a long and pronounced heritage and have greatly influenced watch design since their introduction. To be frank, you’d be hard-pressed to find a standard GMT or dive watch that looks very different from these two models, with the exception of a few icons like the Omega Seamaster or the DOXA Sub. Some are even just blatant ripoffs (*cough* Invicta Pro Diver *cough*) 

Both also feature COSC-certified movements with Rolex’s classification of “Superlative Chronometer,” which means they’re actually twice as accurate as standard COSC certification, which is +/- 2 seconds per day.

Each one also has 70 hours of power reserve and an automatic winding movement, so the beating hearts of each of these watches are almost identical, even though they feature different functions and are given different numerical designations.

Okay, so both are very close and very exceptional pieces. Where do we start to separate them? One of the first things that catches my eye between the two is the overall presentation of the watch. While both feature nearly the same case, there are a few clear differences in their appearance. The Submariner has monochromatic bezels in muted colors. Many of the GMT-Master models are flashy, and almost all are bicolored. 

Furthermore, while both feature a flat-link Oyster bracelet, the Submariner has an entirely brushed bracelet, while the GMT-Master has brushed outer links and polished center links. Overall, this combines to set the GMT-Master II apart as a slightly flashier and more elegant watch, while the Submariner is very starkly utilitarian in most of these factors.

Another clear aspect to consider is the difference in intention behind each of these watches. The Submariner was built with a whopping 300m of water resistance and a dive bezel to measure your time underwater. Its bracelet also comes with a sliding Glidelock extension system which makes it easy to slip it over a wetsuit. 

The GMT-Master II, of course, has an independent GMT hand and bidirectional rotating GMT bezel for tracking three time zones. This makes it the perfect companion both for travelers and those who frequently work with others in other time zones. 

Both do have particular applicability to everyday life: the Submariner’s dive bezel can time almost anything under 60 minutes and the GMT-Master II can keep you temporally connected to people far away. It’s just a distinction of which you’d rather have functionally, at this level.

Another key distinction to think about is the investment value of each of these watches. While I personally am not a fan of the idea of buying watches expressly as investments (they were made to be worn and enjoyed, not stuck in a safe!), it is also important to consider whether your watch will increase in value in the event that you need to resell it. 

For this comparison, let’s take a look at the “standard” Submariner (all black, no date) ref. 124060 versus the “standard” GMT-Master II “Bruce Wayne” ref. 126710GRNR.

Both are in steel and have an all-black colorway, so there’s not any distinction except the basic differences for the watches. The retail price of the Submariner is $9,200, while it currently goes for $11,079 on the market right now. 

On the other hand, the GMT-Master II has a slightly higher retail price of $10,800 (no doubt due to its increased functionality and complexity) and a market value of $18,069. Most of the other references that are like these two on either side are relatively close to the same market value, although there is naturally some fluctuation based on the desirability of each color. 

It’s clear that the GMT-Master II is a watch that—at least for the moment—enjoys a lot more popularity on the market, and it currently changes hands for a lot more than its retail. 

While this isn’t in any way a suggestion to buy and immediately resell your Rolex just to make a quick buck (please don’t…), any luxury watch is a big investment, and you should definitely think about its value over time when you go to buy it. In this case, the GMT-Master II has the edge over the Submariner, assuming you can get both at retail. 

So which one should you choose? There’s no clear option that’s categorically correct. Each one serves a different purpose, and offers a different style.

Yes, they’re very similar in a lot of ways. But each one is very distinct when it comes down to the fine details that really come together to make the watch unique. The GMT-Master II offers elevated elegance, with the extra finishing on its bracelet and its flashy colored bezel. 

The Submariner offers a refined, under-the-radar tool watch look that can provide extremely useful everyday functionality thanks to its dive bezel.

The GMT-Master II is, at the moment, more of a value piece thanks to its high market value, but it’s also clear that the Submariner is a steady rock in the market and won’t experience the fluctuation that the GMT-Master could if its popularity wanes. The Submariner has water resistance for swimmers or just bad weather, but the GMT-Master has additional timezones.

In the end, both are spectacular watches. They serve different purposes, and they each contribute to the wonderful world of horology in unique ways. Let’s boil it down to this for those of you who are only satisfied with a straightforward answer. 

If you’re looking for an everyday beater watch that can follow you underwater or take some serious knocks without losing any polish or shine, or for something that will fly under the radar while also giving you strong functionality, the Submariner is the pick for you. 

If you travel frequently, work in other timezones regularly, or are looking for a little extra polish and shine, go with the GMT-Master II.

Conclusion

It’s been a close fight between these two Rolex heavyweights, and in the end, I’m forced to call it a draw. Each is spectacular (“superlative,” to use Rolex’s favorite adjective) in its own way and will be a great pick for whatever your situation might be. 

There’s no clear-cut right or wrong in the world of watches. Wear what you love and what speaks to you. In the end, all I’m here for is recommendations. Your watch is, above all, yours, and only you can make the right choice in the end.

The Rolex Explorer is often seen as the “undercover” Rolex, more of a piece for true enthusiasts than some of the more flashy models in the Rolex collection. 

It has a long history of being the “if you know, you know” Rolex for a good reason. When watch lovers talk about a GADA (go anywhere, do anything) watch, the Explorer is always mentioned. 

The current Explorer comes in two sizes: 36mm and 40mm. The 36mm version is available in an all-stainless steel version and a two-tone option. While the two-tone might not be for everyone, it’s actually one of my personal favorites. 

Today, we’re focusing on the 40mm Explorer, which is especially popular among enthusiasts for its size. It’s perfect for people who like the Explorer but found the 36mm too small for their larger wrists.

History

In 1953, Rolex introduced both the Submariner and the Explorer. The original Explorer was released with a 36mm case, designed for easy readability in any situation or environment. There’s a popular story that the Explorer made it to the top of Mount Everest, but this isn’t actually true. 

However, the watch became closely associated with rugged outdoor adventures because it was built to handle extreme conditions, including different temperatures and tough environments. While the Explorer never reached the same level of fame as the Submariner, it stayed a reliable part of the Rolex lineup for many years. 

Over time, the Explorer has mostly been available in the 36mm size, though it has also been offered in other sizes like 39mm and 40mm. One feature that has remained the same across all versions of the Explorer is the 3-6-9 dial design, which makes the watch easy to read at a glance.

Case

GADA stands for “go anywhere, do anything” when it comes to watches, and the Rolex Explorer certainly fits that description with its classic case shape, making it a standout in the Rolex lineup. 

It features the iconic Oyster-style case with polished sides and a polished bezel. Rolex polishes the bezel to create a balance between durability and elegance. This watch truly embodies that idea – it can handle tough situations, yet still looks sleek enough to wear under a suit cuff. 

The case is 40mm with a thickness of 11.6mm, which is a comfortable and wearable size. The watch also has a screw-down crown and is water-resistant up to 100 meters. The Explorer is protected by a sapphire crystal, which has an anti-reflective coating on the inside to improve legibility in bright conditions. 

The sapphire crystal itself is highly scratch-resistant, making it a smart choice for durability. Rolex wisely applied the anti-reflective coating only to the inside of the crystal, preventing marks on the outside when the coating is scratched off, which can happen with other watches. 

Since the Explorer is designed for outdoor use, where readability is essential, this design choice makes perfect sense.

Dial 

The dial is one of my favorite features of this watch. Unlike some people, I actually use my watch to tell time, and that’s always a key factor in whether I decide to buy one. When I look at the black dial of the Rolex Explorer, it’s incredibly easy to quickly tell the time. 

The 3-6-9 numbers on the dial make it simple to figure out the hour at a glance. Some might think the lettering at the 12 o’clock position looks crowded compared to the 6 o’clock side, but I personally don’t pay much attention to the lettering when reading the time. The Mercedes hands are a great match for the dial, giving it a polished, complete look. 

There’s no date display on the dial, which helps maintain its symmetry. The lume on the dial also adds to the watch’s overall readability. The hour markers, along with the 3-6-9, are filled with Chromalight, a blue glow that stands out when you go from outside to inside. 

Some brands skimp on the lume for their watch hands, but Rolex didn’t cut corners. The hands are perfectly illuminated, matching the balance of the watch and making it easy to read in low light.

Movement

The Rolex Explorer is powered by the 3230 movement, which provides a 70-hour power reserve and keeps time within +2/-2 seconds per day, making it perfect for everyday wear. Since it’s a time-only watch, setting it is straightforward. 

It’s also self-winding, so as you move through your day, it continues to stay powered. This movement was designed to handle heavy shocks and resist magnetic fields. It has been part of the Explorer collection since 2020 and has proven to be reliable. 

The 3230 movement is also used in other Rolex watches, most notably in the Submariner no-date version. Even though this movement doesn’t include a date function, it’s still impressive, with 31 jewels and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (vph).

Straps

The Rolex Explorer comes with the Oyster bracelet, which is one of the most comfortable options available. It has a brushed finish with polished edges and a lug width of 21mm. The watch also looks great on other straps, like a classic brown leather strap or a NATO strap for a more rugged style.

I’ve often seen older Explorers paired with a green NATO strap, which gives the watch a unique look. One of my favorite alternatives to the Oyster bracelet is a black sailcloth strap. However, after wearing this watch for a while, I always find myself preferring it on the bracelet. 

The Oyster bracelet also features the Easylink system, which allows you to adjust the fit on warmer days or when you need a bit more comfort. To keep the Explorer securely on your wrist, the bracelet includes the Oysterlock safety clasp, ensuring that the watch stays put as you go on your adventures.

On-Wrist Experience

The real standout of this watch is how it feels on the wrist. I’ll admit I’m a bit biased since I’ve owned it for a year, and it’s been my everyday watch. I work in an office, so I wear a button-up and tie, and I’ve never had any issues with the watch getting caught on my cuff. 

It’s incredibly versatile and easy to pair with any outfit. I’ve worn it in all sorts of situations—from gardening and traveling to even changing the oil. When people say this is a go-anywhere, do-anything watch, they’re spot on. It’s hard to reach for any other watch because this one always looks great, no matter the occasion. 

I have a 7-inch wrist, and the size of this watch is just right for me. With its dimensions, it fits comfortably on wrists, ranging from 6.5 to 8 inches. 

While I haven’t tested the 100-meter water resistance yet, I’m confident there won’t be any problems, especially with the screw-down crown. I have occasionally washed my hands and gotten water on the watch, and I can confirm that it survived getting wet. 

On the wrist, the watch is very comfortable, and I don’t have to worry about it digging into my wrist. Even though the watch is listed at 40mm, it doesn’t have a large presence that would make it uncomfortable. The Explorer has a medium weight—it’s not as heavy as a solid gold watch, but it’s also not as light as some titanium watches.

Price & Availability

In an ideal world, you’d walk into an authorized Rolex dealer and have the option to buy the Rolex Explorer 40mm for $7,800. While availability can vary from dealer to dealer, I’ve been lucky enough to walk in and find one ready for purchase without any wait. Online, you can find a few listings ranging from $7,300 to $8,800.

Conclusion

A theme that keeps coming up in my writing is how this watch will go with you wherever you go, no matter the adventure. For those of us with more settled lifestyles, this watch is just as great for running errands at warehouse stores or attending a black-tie event at your kid’s school. 

As someone who’s often indecisive and does tons of research before buying anything, I know it can make purchasing things tricky. But if you’re unsure about this watch, don’t hesitate—just buy it. It’s brought me so much joy and has been with me through many different situations. 

I’m not worried about scratching it or damaging it if I’m out doing something a little more daring. With all this information and my personal experience, I’ll say it again: get the watch, it’s worth it.

For most people, the phrase “Coke vs. Pepsi” evokes images of taste tests, slogans, and silly Superbowl commercials. For watch enthusiasts, however, the expression means one thing: “Ooh, ooh, Rolex GMTs!

As with most things in life, context is everything.

In the lead-up to Watches and Wonders 2025 when we’re all, well, wondering, “Is this the year?”, it’s fitting to take a look at the Rolex GMT Master II and its two most iconic bezel insert colorways, “Pepsi” (blue/red), and “Coke” (red/black).

One could simply assert, “You can’t go wrong either way.” True, but there are reasons why the various references and their colorways, sizes, configurations, dials, and materials used over the years might make one preferable over the other, depending on your needs and tastes.

I hope to give you a good history and overview of both the “OG”  Rolex GMT Master “Pepsi” and GMT Master II (available in both “Pepsi” and “Coke”) and provide some guidance on how to choose the one that will work best for you—and it may or may not coincide with your favorite soda!

I’ll also reveal my big, fat FWIW prediction on whether or not Rolex will re-release an updated  “Coke” GMT Master II in 2025, as well as my personal preference—which may require some Freudian psychoanalysis.

The Rolex GMT Master Pepsi

In the early 1950s, air travel around the world began to “take off” in a big way. More than ever, people began to think of not only local time, but also the time zone where they were traveling to or from.

Pan Am, a major airline in those days, saw the need for their pilots and employees to track a second time zone. They partnered with Rolex to create a tool watch to do just that, and the GMT Master was born in 1955.

That act of procreation launched a population explosion of GMT (GMT = Greenwich Mean Time, or the zero degrees meridian) watches across a multitude of brands that continues to this day.

The original GMT Master ref. 6542 had a 38mm stainless steel case diameter, modest by modern standards but large for the time, a case thickness of 13mm including its acrylic bezel, and came on a matching stainless steel “Oyster” bracelet.

The dial was “gilt gloss”, meaning that the text and markings were gold tone and slightly recessed below a glossy, black surface. The handset was gilt, with a “Mercedes” hours hand that allowed the wearer to easily discern it from the minutes hand and also more surface area for lume  (in this case, radium). There was a date complication with a “Cyclops” magnifying lens at the 3 o’clock position.

The lumed, bidirectional red/blue bezel made of bakelite, an early form of synthetic plastic-like material, was embedded with Arabic numerals and plots representing the 24-hour world time scale.

The red half of the bezel corresponded with daylight, and the blue with night. The resemblance to the Pepsi logo was immediately obvious, and the nickname was born.

Bakelite bezels were prone to cracking, a particularly troublesome problem considering the numerals and plots were lumed with potentially unhealthy amounts of strontium-90, and they were replaced with aluminum ones in later editions.

The ref. 6542 lasted only 5 years and was followed by the workhorse 40mm case diameter reference ref. 1675 in 1959, which, with variations in bezel and dial colorways, dial print, crown guard sizes and styles, along with ever-improving movements, stayed on the job through 1980.

The GMT Master appeared in a series of other iterations and was officially retired in 1999 in the form of the ref. 16700.

One very important characteristic which was common to all GMT Masters ever made is the GMT hand was coupled with the hours and minutes hands so that it was always on local time. In order to track a second time zone, the bezel was rotated until the desired time on the 24-hr scale aligned with the GMT hand.

“But wait!” people exclaimed. “Wouldn’t it be great if the GMT hand could be decoupled from the hours hand so that one could adjust the latter and  “jump” to a new time zone while the watch kept on running? Oh, and we’d also like a third time zone!” they said.

Rolex agreed. Enter the GMT-Master II.

The Rolex GMT Master II Coke

In 1983, Rolex released the first GMT Master II, the ref. 16760, with a red/black aluminum bezel insert, and it immediately earned the moniker “Coke”. It also had a couple of other nicknames that wouldn’t fly today—“The Fat Lady” and “The Sophia Loren” due to its larger crown guards, and thicker, “curvier” case.

The reason for the additional girth was the use of the new Caliber 3085 movement which allowed the aforementioned decoupling of the hours hand from the GMT hand so the hours hand could be independently adjusted without interrupting the minutes and seconds hands when entering a new time zone, making it a “traveler’s” GMT.

A frequent flyer could then leave the GMT hand in the “home” time zone and also track a third time zone by rotating the bidirectional bezel to align the desired hour on the 24-hr scale with the GMT hand.

There was a tradeoff, however. The Caliber 3085 movement could not accommodate the “quick set” date function, and from that point forward, the date could only be changed by moving the hours and minutes hands forward or backward.

In addition to “true” GMT functionality, the ref. 16760 included other improvements, such as an upgrade from an acrylic crystal to scratch-resistant sapphire, and a white gold surround for the indices to prevent tarnishing, a feature still present in the modern GMT Master II.

The next iteration of the GMT Master II “Coke” was the ref. 16710 which was released in 1989. A ref. 16710 “Pepsi” GMT Master II was launched as well.

Both remained in the Rolex catalog through 2007, and for a while, were offered alongside the GMT Master Pepsi 16700 which was manufactured through 1999 and then discontinued, ending the GMT Master era.

The ref. 16710 had a slimmer profile—still a 40mm case diameter, but the thinner Rolex Caliber 3185 movement and the subsequent 3186 allowed for a reduction in case thickness from the ref. 16760’s12.61mm, to 12mm, along with a shorter lug-to-lug distance.

The ref. 16760, as well as pre-1997 ref. 16710s, had tritium lume with “Swiss-T < 25” print dial. Afterwards, there was a transition to Luminova from ’98-’99. Since 2000, SuperLuminova has been used in all GMT Master IIs. Solid, milled end-links were introduced in 2000, and drilled lugs were phased out in 2003.

Another interesting ref. 16710 variation was “error” or “stick” dials, which have an open Roman numeral instead of a capped one. Later 16710s were powered by the updated Caliber 3186 which featured a Parachrom hairspring for better magnetic resistance and a faster date change after midnight.

The GMT Master II ref. 16710 had a long run that ended in 2007. Since then, the question of whether or not Rolex will re-introduce a “Coke” GMT-Master II has been on watch enthusiasts’ minds, especially every spring in the weeks leading up to Watches and Wonders.

A 2022 Rolex patent for the manufacturing of a red/black ceramic bezel insert fueled speculation even more.

But by 2024, still no Rolex “Coke”—although Rolex sister brand Tudor did shake up the watch world with the release of a “Caffeine-Free Diet Coke” 39mm Black Bay 58 GMT sporting a red/black bezel and tannish, faux patina.

Is 2025 the year? I’m going to stick my neck out and predict the answer is, drum roll please, “Yes!”

With the aforementioned patent, the appearance of a red-black bezel by Tudor in 2024, Rolex ramping up manufacturing capacity, and 2025 being the 70^th anniversary of the GMT Master lineage, I think this is the year they pull the trigger.

But that may be so much wishful thinking on my part—plus my strong preference for Coke products, which probably resulted from my mother putting Coke in my baby bottle in the early 1960s (Do NOT try this at home!).

Rolex Coke vs. Pepsi – How to Choose

If a room in your house is decorated wall-to-wall with either Coke or Pepsi memorabilia, then your choice is probably already baked in.

For the rest of us, perhaps the main differentiator and selection criterion are the bezel insert colorways. Make no mistake about it, the “Pepsi” red/blue combination is the “OG” and simply pops, adhering closely to the GMT Master’s heritage of bold, globetrotting adventure.

As such, it gives off a toolish and sporty vibe more than a dressy one. Still, if you wear it with a tux, even those who aren’t into watches may notice the bright and colorful signal from across the ballroom and think  “Ah, I bet that’s a Rolex.”

The “Coke” red/black bezel insert is more subdued and sophisticated. It certainly would go well with black, formal attire, but its versatility extends to a wide variety of colors and styles of clothing. Flying under the radar can also have advantages, such as more safety during foreign travel.

With the rise of global watch thief gangs, you might breathe easier wearing the more stealthy “Coke” GMT Master II on the streets of Rome than the “Pepsi”, which can sometimes shout, “Hey y’all, I’m from ’Murica! Rob me!”

If you’re more interested in vintage and neo-vintage pieces than modern GMT-Master IIs, then you’re going to have a party going through all the many interesting references and variations available on the vintage and secondary markets.

If you’re interested solely in buying a “Coke”, then you’re going to be limited to vintage and neo-vintage pieces with aluminum bezel inserts from 1983-2007—that is, unless Rolex finally releases a “new Coke” with a Cerachrom bezel. But rest assured, there are many “old Cokes” available out “in the wild”.

Another consideration is how you plan to wear it. All GMT Masters and GMT Master IIs ever made were rated at 100m/330ft of water resistance.

However, if you plan to wear it in or around water, or other rugged conditions, do your due diligence and make sure pre-owned, neo-vintage, and vintage pieces you’re considering have been serviced in the not-to-distant past, including replacing and oiling gaskets.

Since older references have less robust build quality than modern ones, it’s always a good idea to keep them away from water. If you plan to wear the timepiece mainly as an everyday watch and not submerge it in water, then you’ll have more options.

Setting a budget should always be the first move before purchasing a luxury watch. If you want a new GMT Master II at retail, then may the Greek god of time, Cronos, be with you! The wait for a new GMT Master II is typically very long, and if you decide to go pre-owned or gray market for a late model or “never worn” one, then expect to pay a hefty premium.

Let’s say money is no object, you have a very well connected AD, and you want to fly high above the all-steel “Pepsi” proletariat masses.

If so, Rolex offers the GMT-Master II “Pepsi” ref. 126719BLRO in “stealth wealth” 18kt white gold and matching Oyster bracelet, with both “midnight blue” (retail $45,200 USD) and “meteorite” (retail $47,500 USD) dials.

The bling doesn’t stop there. It’s technically incorrect to say that Rolex doesn’t currently offer a “Coke” GMT Master II. Are you  personally known as a “VIP client” at Rolex HQ and interested in an off-catalog “Icy Coke”?

If so, for a cool $250,000-plus market price, you can have a red/black bezel, consisting of 18 black sapphire, 18 rubies, and 12 diamonds, in all-18kt yellow gold with brilliant diamond lugs (ref. 126758 RUSA) or baguette diamond lugs (ref. 126778 RUSA), and all-18kt white gold with baguette diamond lugs (ref. 126779 RUSA).

That’s a lot of “ice”! Be careful. If you fly too close to the sun, your wings may melt!

Coming back down to earth, if you desire a new all-steel “Pepsi” GMT Master II and have an AD who can hook you up for retail, the ref. 126710BLRO in 2025 is available from authorized dealers for $10,800 USD with Oyster bracelet, and $11,000 USD with a Jubilee.

According to WatchCharts, the average preowned ref. 126710BLRO market price as of this writing is $19,037 USD—“hefty premium” indeed! A “never worn” piece with original box and papers will command even more.

Keep in mind that there are a lot of Rolex vintage and neo-vintage ref.1671s out there in both “Pepsi” and “Coke” colorways. As of this writing, WatchCharts shows the average market price of an all-steel 1671 to be more reasonable and much closer to current retail at $11,714 USD. While market prices fluctuate, of course, in general, all-steel GMT Master IIs are going to hold their value well.

Which one would I choose? Good question! A steel GMT-Master II is an aspirational watch for me, and I do ogle them on a regular basis. Right now, I would probably buy a neo-vintage (late 90s, early 2000s) ref. 1671 “Coke”.

Secondary market GMT Master IIs from that era are more likely to be in good condition than older references, but still much less expensive than ones from 2018 to the present. I’d choose “Coke” because it’s my cola of choice (see previous Dr. Freud reference), plus I like the idea of wearing a more subdued, “stealth” watch “in the wild”.

But hey, if an AD called me right now and offered me a new all-steel “Pepsi” at retail, I’d probably grab the opportunity. Take that, Mom!

Conclusion

GMT watches are all the rage in 2025, with new models from various manufacturers emerging almost every week. Some of them are very good, some even great. Still, nothing is likely to ever dethrone “The Crown’s” GMT Master II.

Like I said in the beginning, the real answer to the question “Coke or Pepsi?” is not an “either/or” response, but instead a “both/and”. Either way, you’ll be the winner wearing “The Real Thing” or “The Right One, Baby!” on your wrist.

If someone had given me a crystal ball two years ago, I’d have happily and confidently said that the Rolex Air-King had enjoyed a good innings and predicted it was due to hang up its hat.

Why? Because nothing lasts forever, not even some of the most iconic watches in the world. Indeed, there will come a time when the Royal Oaks and Submariners of the world will be less desirable than they are now.

Perhaps not forgotten altogether, but the ever-changing tide of watch trends washes new designs ashore every week, and slowly but surely, trends are evolving, even if we don’t see the result of those transitions for another decade or so.

Even brands like Omega, TUDOR, Patek Philippe, and Grand Seiko can’t avoid it. That said, some things last longer than expected, and that can certainly be said for the Rolex Air-King. I hold my hands up.

My prediction was wrong because whilst Rolex would go on to discontinue the Air-King reference 116900, it soon followed it up with the reference 126900, and all was good with the world again.

While we’re on the topic of extending collections, I have to say that although Rolex watches are nothing short of legendary – pure excellence – genius, even the Crown brand is not the most adventurous.

Rolex remains at the forefront of indispensable grab-and-go watches, promising remarkable resistance to wear and unmatched durability and toughness throughout the industry. Why, then, does it not experiment more?

After all, it was one of the last brands to jump on board using strong, lightweight titanium for tool watches – a material that has long been used in the aerospace industry for its qualities. How did it mark the occasion, do you think? With a new collection, maybe? Nope! Just another Sea Dweller! (Sea-Dwellers are awesome, by the way!)

Anyway, what I’m saying is that what keeps Rolex admirers hanging on the brand’s every release is the prospect that one day, we might get an entirely new, off-the-wall, and unexpected design.

Until that day, however, we must learn to accept that Rolex is the king of watches because it produces cool, timeless watches for the masses, not because of its experimentation with niche concepts.

Without these successful models, it simply wouldn’t be able to churn out the million watches per year that it does. The Air-King, whether you consider it unadventurous or not, is here to stay, and the reference 126900 has some remarkable features worth mentioning if you’re considering biting the bullet on one.

The Air-King Has Changed. A Lot!

For an impressive three-decade duration (nearly four), the Rolex Air-King stayed relatively unchanged from its debut release in 1957. It grew in popularity for its no-nonsense dial and functional beauty.

The last models to honor this much-loved format were those from the 1142XX series, which launched in 2007. Although modified with some slight reworkings, it remained true to that first 1950s model in many ways. This series was eventually given the chop, only for Rolex to unleash a new Air-King design in 2016. 

If you’re familiar with the Bloodhound SCC vehicle, designed to break land speed records at supersonic speeds, you may recall the design of its dash clocks, which Rolex not only helped to design but took inspiration from when creating the new generation of Air-King watches.

Sadly, that record-breaking moment never happened, and the Bloodhound SCC went into administration. Then the pandemic hit. You could say that this series of events scuppered the Air King’s potential to become everyone’s much-loved day-to-day favorite.

But it wasn’t the brand’s most popular design by any stretch of the imagination. Even so, doomed rocket car not, Rolex stood proudly by this design and continued to produce the Air-King. 

At one point, it looked like Rolex would have nowhere to go when building on the Air-King’s design. A reinterpretation of the original design seemed like an impossibility.

Plus, a reworked Air-King, being so similar in design to the Oyster Perpetual already, would sit too close to the brand’s bread-and-butter watch. The Air-King was losing its popularity. But here’s the thing: Rolex launched another one. And it was good. So good.

A Review of the Rolex Air King 126900

The modern Air-King, released in 2022, is largely similar to the Milgauss and is considered a relatively underappreciated design.

Perhaps this can be attributed to the fact that the watch has undergone some rather significant changes over the years. After all, it hasn’t always been a tool watch.

Moreover, its classic dress watch aesthetics previously measured a compact 34mm diameter, while the dial was very minimalist. Post-2014 models, however, came in at a new 40mm diameter, compounding the need to move with the times.

The Case 

The Air-King reference 126900 is nothing like the original 5500 reference from 1957, that much we’ve established already.

However, the mix of Arabic numerals, similar to the Explorer collection, and the military-style 1940s case shape tap into niche pilot watch-collecting circles (although this isn’t a pilot’s watch in the modern form). This is the only Rolex watch that combines a crown guard case with a function-less bezel.

Loosely based on the Milgauss, it features a 40mm stainless steel case without any domed or rounded surfaces.

This should only concern those with a sub-7-inch wrist since it makes the watch appear flat against the skin. That said, the brushing on the flat areas and the polishing on the sides and the bezel is no less impressive than any other tool watch from Rolex.

The case’s design is very much Oyster, regardless of which angle you’re viewing it from. The facets of the case are sharp and angular, almost athletic-looking. Rolex gives the watch a larger lug width, which seems to be a running theme, with similar changes rolled out across the modern Submariner and Explorer II.

The case of the 126900 also features a twin-lock crown and a screwed caseback, and with the addition of the crown guard drastically changes the feel of the case on the wrist, enhancing more of a tool-like feel.

The Dial

The dial of the Air-King is different and fun. The minute markers take a little bit of getting used to, but they do challenge you to adopt a new approach to timekeeping the more time you spend wearing the watch. The first thing worth mentioning is the rich black display, which will match pretty much any outfit except for a professional suit, perhaps, since the watch’s overall design is resolutely sporty. 

In the metal, the pop of Rolex green is a nice touch and is seen in the second hand and the Rolex lettering.

The minute markers are very generously lumed and are a marked improvement compared to the previous model, which featured white gold numerals void of any luminescent material. Now, they look reminiscent of the Explorer markers, cementing subtle pilot-style cues.

The addition of the “05” numeral as opposed to the older “5” numeral is another good decision by Rolex, giving the display a stronger sense of balance and matching the “55” marker on the other side.

The Mercedes hands, although reshaped, are out in full force, too, traveling across the dial underneath a strong, flat anti-glare piece of sapphire crystal. Overall, the dial this time around feels more coherent. Many have described the dial of the Rolex Air-King ref.126900 as polarising, which I can relate to.

The layout is crisper and more defined, and the punchy green elements ramp up the sporty undertones of the watch perfectly.

The Movement 

The 2016 Air-King reference 116900 watch was marked as a superlative chronometer for the first time in its career. If you weren’t already aware, that means the movement inside its robust 905L stainless steel case has passed a series of stringent tests to ensure it meets strict quality criteria.

Rolex watches that bear this standard indicate so on the surface of their dials. The precision of these movements is tested using Rolex-developed equipment, promising an impressive accuracy within –2 to +2 seconds.

The Calibre 3131 was fitted inside a case that had just undergone one of the most drastic size increases in the brand’s history, so you can certainly appreciate that this modification took the Rolex community a while to get used to. 

Comparing the initial post-2014 iteration and the second one, some differences are worth mentioning. The case went from a round profile with polished sides to a more chiseled aesthetic with a sharper, more athletic look.

The size, however, stays the same at 40mm, although the thickness of the case has dropped from 13.1mm to a more adequate 11.59mm. This time, the case holds the Calibre 3230, the next generation of the former Calibre 3131.

The movement is another superlative chronometer that exists in other three-handed sports watches throughout the brand’s portfolio. It also performs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and makes use of a Parachrom hairspring – a component that is impervious to magnetism.

Its 70-hour power reserve also makes it a great weekend watch, running accurately from Friday through Sunday should you wish to switch it out for another favorite. This movement also employs the Chronergy escapement, which helps with this impressive power reserve with a fairly new geometry that combines a more efficient gear train with a new, improved barrel.

The Strap

The Rolex Air-King ref 126900 is fitted on an Oyster bracelet, which seamlessly delivers form and function to the wrist in equal measure. The Oysterlock clasp, engraved with the iconic brand logo, prevents you from accidentally opening the bracelet.

At the same time, the Easylink comfort extension link mechanism enables you to increase the length of the bracelet by 5mm. This is a handy feature in the summer when your wrist is contending with warm, humid environments and you’re going from a cold dip in the sea to a dry, hot beach.

The watch has no other configuration, either, so you have to enjoy it for what it is. And without endless strap options pulling you in different directions, you can fully appreciate the rugged and durable watch that Rolex intends it to be.

Everything from the tapering of the bracelet to the brushing and polishing of the link in this design is finished to the high standard one would expect of any Rolex watch.

The lug width of this Air-King is unusual, measuring 21mm, which would make shopping for alternative straps a little trickier than usual. Still, there are strap options to accommodate this size should you want to experiment with different bands over time. 

How Does It Wear? 

As aforementioned, the reference 126900 sits at a more manageable height on the wrist than the reference 116900 did.

The pronounced crown with a more notable fluted design, the safety lock clasp on the Oyster link bracelet, and the crown guard all make for an aesthetically pleasing design if the non-conventional Rolex is what you’re looking for.

As the most non-Rolex of Rolex watches, the design combines an extremely well-built construction with tight tolerances, making for a great daily beater that you should naturally be able to take anywhere.

The awkward lug width I mentioned earlier does have one advantage: it slims the case down, tapering it and enabling it to fit snugly on the wrist.

The slab sides of the watch, however, do make the watch sit relatively flat, and without that much-needed curvature, the case can appear large on slender wrists.

Looking directly at the watch from the side, you’ll likely have some gaps between the wrist and the case, and the first link of the bracelet does articulate beyond the lugs, which is unfortunate. Saying that the rest of the links contour well with the shape of the wrist and sit comfortably against the skin without snagging or rattling.

Overall, the Air-King is lighter and leaner than models like the Sub or the GMT-Master II and will behave well under the cuff of a jacket or sweater. 

Pricing and Availability 

Even though the Air-King isn’t one of the brand’s most in-demand designs, you can still expect to join a waiting list if you’re buying from new at a local stockist.

Options open up once you get on the secondary market, though. Vintage models are surprisingly affordable (starting from around $4-5000), while current models demand a higher price, with references like the 116900 still demanding prices around the $7-8000 mark.

The Air-King has always been a good entry point into the world of Rolex watch collecting, and today, this is still true for pre-owned models on the secondary market.

Although it left little room to expand upon, the reinvention of the Air-King is considered quite a polarising design by many collectors, driving prices up somewhat. Still, in the grand scheme of things, the new Air-King models are still one of the most affordable to invest in. 

The frustrating thing with Rolex watches is that you can’t just take the $7-8000 the brand wants for this watch to a local stockist and walk out with it.

However, being a relatively young model, pre-owned Air-King watches are worth the investment and, in many cases, are still in mint condition. This is certain to cut out any lengthy waiting times.

Conclusion 

There is no denying that the latest Air-King in Rolex’s catalog is unorthodox and somewhat quirky. It’s a design that seems to straddle so many different designs.

The Arabic numerals on the double-digit minute markers are not the easiest to reference and take some time to get used to. But if you’re looking for something unique, the Air-King could be the game changer you’re waiting for.

It’s an individual-looking watch that will attract one of two types of collectors – the type that backs a Rolex regardless of its design or style and the kind that is looking to add a bit of spice to the mix and wants to be proved wrong.

Although it wasn’t a head-over-heels love story for many collectors, the design works. And while this time, I’d rather not predict what the brand will do next, I shall save face and say that I hope the Air-King sticks around for the foreseeable this time.

Rolex is, incontestably, the most popular watch brand in the world, to the point where even talking about their popularity feels like a cliché. One million Rolexes are produced every year, and yet still most of their models have long waiting lists and are impossible to find unless you have a close connection with your local dealer. 

When it comes to picking out a Rolex that speaks to you, it’s hard to go wrong: the Crown offers a very wide variety of rather customizable options, certainly, an advantage of such high production runs.

Perhaps as a consequence of this wide variety of customization options, however, you might find it difficult to choose between the many stellar picks out there. In particular, case size can be a big issue. 

Most people have favorite colors or specific aesthetic draws when it comes to dials or bracelets, but what about case size when these other factors appear to stay the same?

Whether you’re actively picking out your next Datejust or Oyster Perpetual, or just curious about which will prevail in a contest of close competitors, follow along here with my deep dive into the 36mm and 41mm Rolex sizings, and I’m sure you’ll walk away with some newfound insights into design, sizing a watch for your wrist, and the wonderful world of Rolex.

Rolex Datejust 36mm vs 41mm

The Rolex Datejust collection has some serious historical backing. It was the first automatic watch with a date wheel, as before, this was usually represented with a pointer on a hand. 

This made the dial more cluttered, and the clearest testament to the advantages of the date wheel is its near-ubiquitous presence in today’s sport watches and even dress watches. Many US presidents and key historical figures have worn the Datejust, such as Winston Churchill, and still more have worn its natural evolution, the Day-Date.

Thanks only in part to its extended heritage, the Datejust plays a major role in Rolex’s catalog today, with dozens of options spanning multiple case sizes, dial designs, and metal content. Among all these options, wearers are consistently faced with one key choice to make: should you opt for a 36mm or 41mm case size?

If only it was as clear-cut as a simple answer—but like everything else in the watch world, this decision comes with some significant nuance. In different situations, either option can be better, so I’m here to help guide you to the right one for your tastes.

The Datejust 36mm is the option, among the two, that greatly prioritizes the watch’s heritage. If you’re the type of person who’s fascinated by the “Moonwatch” history of the Omega Speedmaster, you should really consider going for the 36mm option as far as this Datejust battle goes. 

It’s a historically accurate sizing, making it very much like the watch that Churchill and several presidents would have worn, without the quality worries that can come with a vintage watch.

In terms of its actual size, the 36mm is elegant and discreet. It slips under a cuff with ease, glinting quietly away as if confident in its own quality without needing to be shown off. Taking it around town on some errands? 

It’s small enough that it won’t easily knock around on things, retaining that finished shine much more easily and sparing you a few of those wince-worthy moments when you hit your wrist on a doorknob and just know your crystal has acquired a new scratch.

On the other hand, the Datejust 41 has a much more modern style. 41mm is a very standard size for most modern watches, which will visually break some of those heritage ties and make it look fresher and newer. 

Naturally, it has a larger wrist presence, which can make it a little flashier and a little harder to tuck away under a dress cuff if the need arises. Do note, however, that the Datejust 41 is actually closer to 39.5mm in diameter, and Rolex just rounded up the size to get a better model name. This means it’ll wear a little smaller than your traditional 41mm watch, making it a little more subdued.

Lastly, note that both watches feature the same caliber 3235, so the only difference between them is purely an aesthetic one. In either the 36 or the 41, you’ll be getting the same accuracy and power reserve, so there’s no mechanical advantage to either. You can rest assured knowing that no matter which option you decide on, you’ll have the same quality performance that mechanical Rolexes always provide.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36mm vs 41mm

If you were staggered by the Datejust’s historical heritage, you’d better take a seat while we explore the Oyster Perpetual. This iconic collection began with the Oyster in 1926 (just long enough for the Cartier Santos-Dumont, the first men’s wristwatch, to have barely graduated college) and featured the eponymous Oyster case. 

This was a patented Rolex invention and was the first waterproof watch ever made, thanks to its monobloc structure (i.e. machined out of one block of steel) and screw-down case back. 

The Oyster then evolved into the Oyster Perpetual collection in 1931, with the invention of Rolex’s automatic winding system, which was one of the first to be introduced into wristwatches. At the time of writing this article, the Oyster will be 100 years old next year. That’s some serious heritage as far as a wristwatch collection goes.

Just like with the Datejust, the 36mm Oyster Perpetual is primarily a heritage-motivated pick, all else being equal. It’s just like some of the first Oyster Perpetuals, which the collecting community affectionately calls “bubblebacks” for their large casebacks accommodating the winding rotor. 

Not much has changed in terms of the design or structure (except now it’s much thinner thanks to the reduced caseback size), so it’s easy to see this watch as a vintage-driven size that references the originals while also improving on them.

Also, just like the Datejust, the Oyster Perpetual 41 actually clocks in at 39.5mm, making it a little smaller and more wearable than you’d expect. The lug-to-lug is pretty extended as well, at 47.35mm versus the 44mm of the 36mm. 

This is reflected in the way the watch spreads out over your wrist, taking up more space and calling more attention to itself. It’s a modern take on a vintage classic and one that executes well while creating a larger profile and contemporary look.

Note as well that, like the Datejusts, both sizes of Oyster Perpetual feature the Rolex caliber 3230, meaning that both will perform exactly the same, and neither will have any advantage over the other in terms of mechanics.

Rolex 36mm vs 41mm – How to Choose

Ultimately, the choice is a hard one, but it can be logically approached by looking at two different factors. The first of these is your wrist size. My colleague Charlotte goes into measuring and analyzing this in-depth in her article here, which you’ll definitely want to check out to help determine which size is better for you. 

Let’s break down what size you might be looking at based on your measurement. At around 6”, a watch of around 36mm or 38mm are both good options, and anything below 6” also fits well with the 34mm-38mm range. 

At the relatively average men’s sizes of 7-7.5”, look for the range of 39-42mm, or a 44mm for the higher end of this spectrum. Lastly, at 8” or larger, shoot for a large watch like a 44 or 46mm. Following this layout, then, if you’re going for a perfect fit above all, go for the 36mm option if your wrist is anywhere up to 6.5”, and go for the 41 if your wrist is anything above that.

Of course, wrist size isn’t the only factor that should motivate your watch purchase. As we discussed above, there are factors like whether you want something that appears more modern or vintage or more or less visible on your wrist. 

Just because your measurement would indicate a “perfect size” doesn’t mean this is always the best option—notably, fashion-conscious actors have been pushing back against this trend, such as Timothée Chalamet wearing the tiny Cartier Tank Mini.

Another factor to note in the battle between these two sizings is the customizable options associated with each. While both sizes have a very wide range of offerings, Rolex does clearly treat the 36mm as a more feminine size, and has more dial options that would typically be considered feminine. 

These include mother-of-pearl and pink colors, as well as several options studded with diamond indices. If you’re looking for a little extra bling or refined flair, the 36mm may be the way to go, thanks to its unique dial styles.

Conclusion

The decision between the Rolex 36mm and 41mm options may not be as contentious as the eternal questions of whether a hot dog is a sandwich or whether or not coffee tastes like dirt (don’t ask my opinion, you’ll probably be offended). 

That said, it’s a decision that does take some thought, and I hope that you’re now equipped to make the right choice for your next Rolex or your next watch purchase, whatever it may be.