Category: News

Grand Seiko is widely known for its incredible dials. If that’s news to you, then boy, are you in for a treat today because the watch I’m reviewing is one of my favorite Grand Seiko dials to date. It’s a new addition to the Japanese watchmaker’s Evolution 9 collection and does something a little different to what we’ve seen before. 

When it comes to their more complicated dial designs, Grand Seiko typically elects something raised, a pattern that has an obvious visual texture. The Grand Seiko “Snowflake” is one of the best examples I could use, mimicking the look of snow with a grained white finish. You also have designs like the Grand Seiko “Whirlpool”, which lives up to its name with a swirling, whirlpool-like raised pattern in the brand’s very own dark blue hue. 

But the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025 doesn’t have a dial that’s grooved, recessed, or grained; it’s a dial that appears almost completely smooth – at first – bringing to life the movement of the Atera River. This is a flowing stream found in Grand Seiko’s home country of Japan, which splits the Atera Valley into two parts, giving life to the floral and fauna surrounding it.

The Evolution of the Evolution 9 Collection

I was just about to type that the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 collection is one of my all-time favorite Grand Seiko designs. And that’s not wrong; it really is. But I also know that if you present me with one of their Heritage or Elegance models, I’m probably going to say the same. It’s hard to pick a favorite from a brand that does everything right. 

That said, I really enjoyed what Grand Seiko has been doing with their Evolution 9 collection lately. These watches are a powerful reimagining of their classic 44GS design from 1967. 

This was a watch that was precise, modern, and largely inspired by the beauty of Japanese nature. Today’s iteration is much the same, boasting refined details, a sharp case, slender profile, and an otherworldly dial. 

Over the last few years, Grand Seiko has evolved its Evolution 9 collection even further to make it more advanced and streamlined without the design ever losing its original charm. Some of these developments have been spotted in the shape of more legible, multi-faceted hands and broader markers, shortened lugs, and cases with a lower center of gravity for incredible comfort. 

What’s inside is just as impressive. The Evolution 9 watches feature Grand Seiko’s leading technology with both mechanical movements and Spring Drive options available. These are pieces that cement the brand’s dedication to accuracy and innovation, exuding an almost minimalist type of beauty that enhances its modern and timeless aesthetic. 

Now, there are little to no Grand Seiko Evolution 9 watches that I don’t like, but there are certainly some that I like more than others. But after trialing a particular model this past week, I might just have found the watch to take first place. With one of the most breathtaking dials I have ever seen, I’m talking about the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025.

A Modern, Streamline Titanium Case

The case of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025 watch is a familiar sight, boasting much of the same specs and tech as the Lake Suwa SLGA019 and its other brothers and sisters in the Evolution 9 collection. 

Like some of those models before it, reference SLGA025 boasts a high-intensity titanium case, a material that’s not just lightweight but a whopping 30% lighter than steel. I’ll get onto how this watch wore on my wrist shortly, but it’s safe to say that with its slender profile, sharp edges, and weightless finish, this felt unnoticeable in the best way. 

The grade 5 titanium material also has super scratch resistance, adding further resilience and durability to the design compared to standard stainless steel. It’s a metal with a slightly different look, too, being a little darker than steel and having more of a utilitarian finish rather than the bright gleam found on polished steel dress watches. 

The case of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025 watch is still finished at the same high level as we’ve come to expect from this Japanese watchmaker. They have utilized their Zaratsu polishing technique on several elements of the case. 

This technique is a hallmark of Grand Seiko and involves carefully polishing surfaces using a spinning tinplate to create a distortion-free mirror finish. The case alternates between Zaratsu-polished surfaces and fine brushed finishes, creating a stunning play of light and shadow that enhances the watch’s streamlined aesthetic. 

The SLGA025 also has the same short, ergonomically shaped lugs, contributing to how it wears so well and low on the wrist. Its dimensions include a 40mm diameter and an impressively thin 11.8mm profile. The width from lug to lug is 47.9mm, so all in all, this is a compact, easily wearable timepiece for most wrists. 

The knurled crown, positioned at 3 o’clock and embossed with the Grand Seiko (GS) logo, is not only aesthetically pleasing but practical, with a design that allows easy manipulation without compromising the watch’s streamlined look. 

The dial is also protected by a dual-curved sapphire crystal glass that has an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface, enhancing both durability and readability. This type of crystal minimizes glare and provides a clear view of the dial from any angle. 

Flipping the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025 over, the exhibition case back offers a glimpse into one of Grand Seiko’s legendary Spring Drive movements (more on that shortly, I promise). 

The case back is also made of sapphire crystal, allowing the wearer to admire the movement’s intricate details without any obstruction. Finally, the case is finished with a water resistance of 100 meters, reinforcing this release as a watch that will effortlessly perform in both casual and active settings.

The Best Grand Seiko Dial Yet?

If it wasn’t already clear, the standout feature of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025 watch is its dial. It’s once again a Grand Seiko dial I urge you to go see in the metal. It is absolutely breathtaking, and while I will try my best to describe its appearance to you, I guarantee my words and Grand Seiko’s photos won’t do it justice. 

The color is a rich emerald green that, according to the luxury watch brand, is inspired by Japan’s Atera Valley. The surface has a delicate, almost flowing texture that perfectly mimics the movement of water, or in this instance, the gentle movement of the Atera River. It’s a really subtle texture – nothing like the raised elegance of the Snowflake or Whirlpool – but one that is gentle, simple, and yet undeniably awe-inspiring. 

From afar, the dial looks like a classic emerald dial, which alone is beautiful for its unique shade of color, but up close, you can notice this delicate wave-like texture. 

The texture is incredibly random, not easy-to-guess lines should you or I draw our interpretation of waves. In fact, it looks so legit that I can picture the Atera River’s current and how its flow changes depending on the rocky sediment it passes over. 

It’s a refreshing take on color and texture that adds depth and character. And the green hue isn’t overly bright or flashy. There’s a gentle, natural quality to it that draws the eye without demanding attention. I love how Grand Seiko has made this feel artful and understated. The overall effect is soothing yet fascinating, a feeling you don’t often get in watch dials. 

And, of course, as if the surface of the dial wasn’t beautiful enough, you have all the hand-finished details of the dial’s hands and markers. Like the rest of the Evolution 9 collection, they are brightly polished, sharp, and wide, allowing for easy reading even at a quick glance. 

The surface of the dial is made to be the star of the show, though, with the only other features worth noting being an integrated date window at 3 o’clock, a silvered applied GS logo and white text at 12 o’clock, and lettering for the movement and water resistance at 6 o’clock.

Movement 

To top the list of specs for the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025 watch off, it comes powered by one of the Japanese company’s in-house Spring Drive movements. 

Now, I won’t go into the complete details of how this remarkable technology works – I’ll leave that to YouTube – but in short, this is a movement that combines the best of both the traditional gear-driven mechanism of a mechanical watch and the precision of a quartz oscillator. 

It offers a continuous sweep of the second hand and an impressive power reserve, making it a marvel of engineering that perfectly complements the mastery of the dial and case.

The exact caliber in use here is the Caliber 9RA2, a manufacture movement Grand Seiko has meticulously developed and hand-built at their Shinshu Watch Studio. Compared to the previous 9R6x series, the 9RA2 brings significant enhancements in size, performance, and overall functionality. 

I know the size is something a lot of Grand Seiko enthusiasts have been dreaming of: a slimmer Spring Drive powered watch like this Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025. 

It’s this slimmer movement that has allowed the case of the SLGA025 to sit so low at 11.8mm. It also boasts a remarkable five-day power reserve from dual barrels, a quick date change, and exceptional accuracy of +/- 0.5 seconds per day. 

As mentioned, there is an exhibition case back so you can admire the technology of the Spring Drive movement when the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive watch is off your wrist. There’s plenty of handsome decoration to enjoy, including a power reserve indicator that is integrated into the movement’s plate and marked by a royal blue hand.

A Matching Titanium Bracelet

If there’s anywhere to find fault with the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025, it would be in its bracelet. That said, I am about to be picky here. The titanium bracelet is stunning, don’t get me wrong, and meticulously hand-finished to mirror the case, featuring a robust three-link design. 

But I know that a huge drawback of the bracelet for many will be the absence of any micro-adjustment. This makes it a little harder to find the perfect fit, especially since our wrists tend to swell and contract throughout the day. That said, there are half links included, so you can get a close to perfect fit.

A taper on this 22mm-wide bracelet would have been nice, too, but I can appreciate Grand Seiko standing firm on their taperless construction to ensure better balance and ergonomics on the wrist. The three-link construction is fully brushed, adding to its streamlined, sophisticated charm. 

It might have been nice to have some of Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu polishing on the smaller intermediary links for a bit more light play, but again, I’m being incredibly picky here. The high-intensity titanium bracelet is completed by a three-fold clasp adorned with the Grand Seiko logo in relief. It also comes with a twin-trigger release system, so it’s nice and secure.

My only other complaint about the bracelet is that it comes with push pins for sizing rather than screws, which feels less than ideal for a watch of this price point. Grand Seiko does pretty much everything perfectly, but their bracelets let them down just a little when you get up close. 

That said, you can easily swap this bracelet out for another if you wish. It’s 22mm lug width offers plenty of versatility to find alternative straps, all of which will look good next to this gorgeous dial.

On-Wrist Experience

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025 watch wears beautifully, as you’d expect from a watch of this caliber. Constructed from high-intensity titanium, it feels incredibly lightweight, almost like a second skin, while still exuding undeniable presence on the wrist. Even with my relatively small 5.5-inch wrist, the watch maintained a confident look, thanks largely to that captivating dial that I honestly can’t stop staring at.

Though a bit oversized for my frame, the dimensions are still manageable for most wrists, with a 40mm case diameter, a 47.9mm length, and a slim 11.8mm thickness. The male end links extend the lug-to-lug distance to about 51mm, making the watch more suitable for those with wrists around 6.75 inches or larger. 

The 22mm lug width also adds to its broad profile, which is unusual for a Grand Seiko of this size, but it works well with the watch’s bold presence. This is also one of Grand Seiko’s slimmest Spring Drive watches, so it’s perfect for slipping under shirt cuffs, making it an excellent choice for both daily wear and more formal occasions.

Price & Availability

Retailing brand new for $10,500, the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025 watch isn’t the Japanese watchmaker’s most affordable model, but that’s not what you expect when you look at a full titanium watch with a rare dial and a Spring Drive movement. 

In my opinion, although it’s a heavier price tag than some of their other references, every dollar is worth it. It really is a masterpiece of craftsmanship and innovation, and you can almost guarantee that if this exact piece was launched by one of the well-known Swiss watch brands out there, the price would be even higher.

Since the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025 was only launched this autumn as a permanent part of the brand’s Evolution 9 collection, I wasn’t expecting to see many on the pre-owned market just yet. But boy, was I wrong. 

There are quite a few second-hand models out there, but since they’re not all that old and barely worn, they’re still close in price to those brand new. If it was me, I’d choose one brand new at a Grand Seiko authorized retailer like Exquisite Timepieces. You’ve got the confidence, then you’re receiving a genuine watch with all the official warranty and paperwork.

Conclusion

Considering its case finishing, wearable dimensions, striking geometry, and undeniably captivating dial, the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ SLGA025 delivers serious value for its price. 

The five-day Spring Drive movement is both robust and impeccably accurate and it’s a pleasure to be able to watch the technology work through the case back when the watch is off the wrist. While the bracelet could benefit from a few refinements, like micro-adjustments or screw pins, it’s a minor concern when the rest of the watch excels so impressively.

If I had the cash in hand, I would have already purchased this watch. Instead, though, I’m going to pop it onto my wish list and hope, with a bit of luck, Santa is feeling extra generous this year! I know that some may feel this watch is a touch on the pricey side, and the vibrant blue dial may seem bold compared to the classic navy or black options. 

But that choice is all a matter of taste; for me, this watch ticks every box of a beautiful, wearable, and accurate Grand Seiko. My only real piece of advice: go see this dial in person. Please.

If you’ve ever encountered a watch like the Grand Seiko SBGY011, you’re likely a diehard 44GS fan like me. The model, when Grand Seiko released it in 2022, was a superb reissue of the highly coveted 44GS – a vintage Grand Seiko watch that has always been a landmark timepiece in the brand’s rich history. 

This original, of course, had a gold medallion caseback, which concealed a vintage movement behind its surface, while on top, an acrylic crystal completed the desirable vintage package that collectors so often loved.

But what makes the reference SBGY011 – the Asaborake Edition – so special, you ask? Well, there’s a lot to cover on the matter, most of which we’ll touch on when we discuss its design, movement, and dial. 

However, aside from blending form with function rather beautifully, the model also caused a dilemma amongst GS fans when it arrived on the scene a couple of years ago. 

How the SBGY011 Stole Hearts 

I remember the release of the SBGY011. It came around a month or so after the beautiful Omiwatari timepiece on the bracelet. That was some watch to get excited about. For those who don’t already know, the Omiwatari is an inspired design based on a natural phenomenon that occurs midwinter. 

When temperatures change across regions like Shiojiri, the birthplace of Grand Seiko, and home to Lake Suwa, the region’s frozen waters contract and expand.

This structural impact on the water’s surface is believed to be “God’s Footsteps” and a way for religious communities to observe the direction of these ridges and determine whether their year’s harvest will be fruitful. 

The Omiwatari watch by Grand Seiko also offered a Spring Drive movement, a robust case design (enhanced by the brand’s Zaratsu technique), and a beautifully textured dial that perfectly captured the natural fissures of the lake’s top. 

As you can tell from its brief introduction, the watch became a covetable timepiece rather swiftly and one that followed the brand’s Nature of Time theme that so many of the Japanese brand’s timepieces have adopted. 

So, you can understand that the arrival of the SBGY011 caused quite a dilemma for many of Grand Seiko’s discerning collectors who had just acquired this beautiful nature-inspired GS watch, complete with a quality finish and an impeccable movement, only for something equally as beautiful to hit their radar.

The latter was shrouded in a shimmering cloak of silvering tones that skilfully caught the light and boasted an architecture that tipped its hat to the beloved 44GS itself. Furthermore, the watch was only the second in the brand’s offerings to feature a manual wind Spring Drive movement in this 44GS style. 

This perhaps explains why a watch like the SBGY011 would pique the interest of such a devoted Grand Seiko collector. Sure, the watch oozes bucket loads of charm and a classic character (one of the reasons why I often fall under the spell of any pretty-looking Grand Seiko watch). 

But the allure of this model runs far deeper than the magnetic pull of the 44GS alone. Moreover, this is a celebration of some of the Japanese giant’s greatest technical feats. 

The History of the Grand Seiko 44GS

Although Grand Seiko was founded in the 1960s, the evolution of the brand during the 1980s and 1990s further emphasized the profound effect that the brand had on the watchmaking industry. It rose to fame during a transformative era, demonstrating that perfection was indeed a pursuit that never really ends anywhere. 

Furthermore, it is a lifestyle. A belief followed regimentally by every skilled craftsman working at the brand’s ateliers. Perfection is unattainable but, at the same time, the pinnacle of complete success, and therefore, something no brand should ever stop striving for. 

For decades, GS has consistently pushed the boundaries, both in technological innovations and aesthetics, and that was still the case when the 44GS arrived in 1967. Its distortion-free finishes and distinctive case geometry became a playground for light and shade to balance one another out in a harmonious dance. 

This was something that GS collectors had not seen before, but it was the work of Taro Tonaka. The 44GS was one of the earliest Grand Seiko case designs and would go on to embody the “Grand Seiko Style”. It was driven by this idea of a never-ending pursuit of perfection – an idealism whereby watches should “sparkle with quality”. 

The modern reinterpretations of the popular 44GS respect all the core values of the original while reimagining the icon for the modern collector. Of course, the new models are more ergonomically designed, making them great for daily companions. 

However, the crisp angles and the razor-like sleekness of the modern-day profile far surpass anything that even Grand Seiko experts could have imagined at the time. Despite the 44GS being such a collectible, the design of the younger SBGY011 exceeds expectations of mechanical performance and style by a country mile.

The guy responsible for achieving these once-unattainable principles is Nobuhiro Kosugi. As head designer of the modern generation, he had the know-how to bring this vision to reality. Kosugi began in the industry in 1973 as a case designer and joined Seiko Instruments twenty years later. He also had great influence over the models from Grand Seiko’s Heritage Collection, having supported the brand’s return to mechanical watchmaking after a hiatus.

Of course, achieving the modern 44GS-inspired watches would be no easy task. The complexity behind the processes required to capture the sharp edges, curved sides, and thin, tapering lugs of the 44GS would require some tactical problem-solving and a great deal of logical thinking. But today, the mirror-polished Zaratsu-finished models are nothing short of stunning, and that applies to watches like the Grand Seiko SBGY012.

The Case

Accomplishing the unique case structure of the modern 44GS-inspired watches from Grand Seiko was never going to be easy. To achieve the mirror-polished finishes that we have all come to know and love as a dedicated Grand Seiko community, the implementation of a precise machine was the only way to do it. 

And even then, holding the case up to the turning plate on the Zaratsu machine required an unimaginable level of skill and patience. Only those who have trained for many years inside the brand’s ateliers are trusted with the task of the traditional Zaratsu case polish, and this shows in every inch of the SBGY011 watch’s detailing.

This case technique certainly pushes the envelope, and what many still struggle to comprehend is the brand’s very modest pricing, especially when you compare this to several other more expensive offerings with a less-than-mediocre finish, shall we say? Seriously – take a look at the lugs and you’ll see your teeth through them! This watch takes the concept of the polished watch case to a whole other level. 

The case of the Grand Seiko Asaborake Edition reference SBGY011 is a series of sharp lines, flat surfaces, and crisp facets, where planes come together to produce levels and edges that create a complex tapestry of geometric angles. 

The curved finishes along the case side, combined with these other elements, are incredibly challenging to achieve and were not present in the original 44GS watches, but allow the case to sit closer to the wrist. The case takes up residence on the wrist at 10.2mm, allowing it to easily slip under a jacket or office suit.

Combined with these dimensions is a lug-to-lug measurement of 46.2mm, which makes it even more manageable for the smaller-wristed guy to carry off, even when compared to models like the SLGA013, which also adopts the 44GS-inspired architecture. 

The Dial 

“When dawn draws back the veil of night”. That’s the sole inspiration behind this beautiful Grand Seiko watch. To me, it’s that moment when light hits the earth, and everything picks up a muted shade of color. I think the relief of daybreak is perfectly captured in this edition. 

More specifically, the crack of dawn across the mountainous landscape where Grand Seiko watches are made in Shinshu. After all, this is where experts get so much inspiration from when creating their textured dials. 

While some brands specialize in crafting the perfect bracelet or dedicate their time to pioneering new complications, Grand Seiko’s niche is the handcrafted dial, so much so that it has become equally as recognizable for this trade as it has its impeccable movements. 

While the Four Seasons collection is home to colorful dials inspired by Japanese culture and nature, there are other models, like those from the Elegance Collection that share a similar three-dimensional quality with the Four Seasons line. 

However, the Heritage Collection, which features full-of-depth dial designs, like the Asaborake Edition, has thinner cases and graceful aesthetics that set this style apart from others in the catalog. 

And if you and your watch friends are bored to death of talking about movements and how much you spent on the latest addition to your collection, the dial of a Grand Seiko watch like the SBGY011 is actually a great talking point, especially when you know how each one is brought into existence. 

Of course, the Snowflake is the most widely referred to textured dial by Grand Seiko, mimicking the look of freshly fallen snow upon Japan’s unique landscape. Then there are examples like the White Birch and Sakura blossom editions – each one enticing in its own way. 

The dial of the SBGY011, however, boasts a beautifully textured off-white dial color and follows in the faithful footsteps of Taro Tonaka’s Grammar of Design philosophy. The hands and hour markers have multi-faceted surfaces that reflect the light beautifully, while the 12 o’clock location features double indices. 

The dial also features a blued steel hand, affording a subtle pop of color, and, interestingly, the dial appears rather glossy at first until you inspect it on a closer level. Here, you’ll be able to appreciate that special textured pattern that creates a sense of great depth. 

I think the absence of the date does the watch a favor here, especially in terms of creating a simple, no-fuss dial that’s also incredibly easy on the eye since the Asaborake has a very palatable, symmetrical layout. The features are all easy to track at a glance and sit underneath a strong box sapphire crystal glass front with anti-reflective treatment applied to its surface. 

Lastly, instead of featuring the power reserve of the Spring Drive movement on the dial side, experts at Grand Seiko have relocated it to the caseback. Therefore, the Asaborake reference SBGY011 is the perfect option for those who have always wanted a Spring Drive model but without the added complication on the dial side. 

The Movement

I’ve spoken in depth about the allure of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive movement before. But for the horologically curious, this is a revolutionary movement that radically changed the way consumers looked at Grand Seiko as a manufacturer. The concept came about in the 1970s in an attempt to create what GS experts described as an “everlasting watch”. 

The actual concept, even when you think about it now, seemed impossible. Creating a mechanical watch wound by a mainspring but with the one-second accuracy rating of quartz sounded unthinkable, but this is exactly what a Spring Drive movement is.

To help the 240-patent movement fulfill its role, GS experts equipped the Spring Drive with a Tri-Synchro regulator, which replaces the role of the escapement. The Spring Drive saw a brake added between the wheel and the other components of the movement, reducing friction and wear and tear. 

The result (and 600 prototypes later), the Spring Drive was a smooth, silently operating engine that promised a much longer life span. As such, you can admire the gracefully sweeping second hand of the watch as it glides across the dial – an instant giveaway of the revered Spring Drive movement.

The Calibre 9R31 inside the SBGY011 has put on a show behind a sapphire crystal glass exhibition caseback, complete with finely brushed bridges and elegant blued screws. The movement also provides a 72-hour power reserve for those occasions when you may want to alternate the watch with another favorite from your collection. 

The Strap

One key thing I have to mention about the Grand Seiko SBGY011 is its drilled lug holes, which make switching out the strap super easy. The watch naturally comes fitted to the black crocodile leather band but would look incredibly cool if configured to something more colorful like a dark blue or green alternative or even something more vintage-looking like a traditional calf leather band. As it stands, though, the high-quality black strap has large scales on the top and a supple calfskin layer underneath, making it exceptionally soft and comfortable against the skin.

Unfortunately, the watch isn’t offered on a bracelet option, but a factory bracelet from the GS range, particularly one made for the original 44GS watch, would look just as cool. Meanwhile, if you fancied something a little sportier, a rubber band would give the watch a more relaxed edge. 

Likewise, a 19mm Epsom strap could provide the SBGY011 with a real pop of color, especially one with contrast stitching. Whatever you decide to fit the SBGY0011 on, you’ll still have several options, although strap finding would certainly be a lot easier if the lug width measured a more mainstream 20mm.

How It Wears

As I mentioned earlier, the case of the Grand Seiko SBGY011 is a complex series of polished angles, ridges, and curves that are not easy to achieve. But doing so with such tenacity does enable Grand Seiko experts to achieve a more ergonomic fit for the wrist. 

Having looked at the case in some serious detail, I can see that this watch would cause no issue under the cuff of any shirt sleeve, and its 40mm case size is certainly a versatile fit for most wrist circumferences.

 No doubt, what you will love most about wearing the Asaborake Edition is its clever dimensions. Just how does the Japanese watchmaker produce a watch that looks so contoured without it wearing too large on the wrist? 

Lug-to-lug, the case measures 46.2mm, and this is a crucial detail to how the watch wears. Even on my female wrist, that case is destined to sit compactly and comfortably, even with the wide surfaces of the 44GS case. The trade-off of having a manual winding movement inside that case, as opposed to an automatic, is golden. As such, it’s likely one of the best-fitting Grand Seiko’s of its kind because of it.

Going back to my earlier point about the Omiwatari Edition, if that watch was too small for you and you’re looking for something with a little more wrist presence, this is the ticket. It’s 2mm larger than the 38mm Omiwatari, and I personally think it has a more versatile dial colour too.

The Price

The Grand Seiko Asaborake SBGY011 watch currently retails for $8,300. And while it’s not the cheapest of GS watches, the value in this watch is evident throughout the design. The watch may not exactly appreciate in value the older it gets but, as with all Grand Seiko watches, it will hold value well. 

We already talked about the longevity of this watch when discussing the movement itself. But generally speaking, because Grand Seiko watches are brought together using the highest quality materials and several time-honored processes and techniques – you can rest assured that this is a watch will deliver in values of accuracy and legibility for years to come.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Asaborake calls to mind the hazy morning light across the Shinshu backdrop that forms around the Grand Seiko studios and, like an oil painting, captures those nuances and textures across its dial perfectly, using processes and design concepts that many other brands could only ever aspire to grasp.

Aside from the dial itself, this is a practical daily beater that utilizes one of the most accurate mechanical movements on the planet, yet it’s a versatile, comfortable fit for most wrist sizes, too. What’s not to love? 

The character and culture of different nations are often on full display in the products they produce. Certainly, this is true of Japan, where companies and employees show great pride in their work and strive for the highest levels of quality and consistency. The reverence of nature that is so integral to the soul of the nation is present as well.

The Swiss have centuries of watchmaking excellence that earned their place at the top of the world of horology. But Grand Seiko more than deserves to be in the conversation. The Japanese brand consistently releases new models in new collections noted for their beauty, accuracy, and reliability. They combine the heritage of the past with the innovations of the future. Let’s take a good look at the Grand Seiko SLGA021 Lake Suwa.

History

Grand Seiko never rests on its laurels, and in 2020, it released the Evolution 9 Collection. It was so named because the watches in the collection represented an evolution in aesthetics, legibility, and style. The number “9” is the highest single-digit number and represents the highest level of quality.

The timepieces in the collection include divers, chronographs, and sporty, smart casual watches. One of the best-looking, in my humble opinion, is the SLGA021. Called the Lake Suwa because the dial was inspired by the pastoral body of water that sits near Grand Seiko’s studio in Japan’s Kiso Mountains, this is a watch every lover of fine timepieces should take a good look at.

Case

The 40 mm round case is made from high-intensity stainless steel. The surfaces are mostly brushed with very little of Grand Seiko’s trademark Zaratsu polishing. This gives it a more rugged look, which I like. It’s not a blingy watch crying for attention, which gives it plenty of versatility as to what you can wear it with.

The high-intensity steel is lighter than standard stainless which makes for a very nice feel on the wrist. The diameter is right in my wheelhouse for case sizes on my average-sized 7.25-inch wrist. People with smaller wrists will be happy to know that with a 47.6 mm lug-to-lug and 11.7 mm thickness, the watch doesn’t wear big and suits a wide variety of wrist sizes. The only watch lovers who may have a problem are those with beefy wrists approaching  8 inches.

The 3-o’clock crown is a screw-down and big enough to make setting the time easy but not so big as to ruin the aesthetics. The crown and case provide 100 meters of water resistance, making it perfectly safe in the rain, and you could do some surface swimming in it. If you want to explore the depths, there are divers in the collection. 

The scratch-resistance dual-curve sapphire crystal fits in with the sporty elegance of the watch and is coated with anti-reflective material on the inside to let you get a good look at the time in any lighting condition. The exhibition case back is made of the same material with the same coating, so you can enjoy viewing and showing off the movement. 

Dial

If you are even a little familiar with Grand Seiko watches, you will not be surprised when I tell you that the SLGA021 dial is the star of this timepiece. The brand is truly a master when it comes to the color, texture, and response to the light of its dials. 

Grand Seiko has several watches with dials that are inspired by Lake Suwa. The SLGA007 has a blue dial so designed. However, the dial on the SLGA021 is a deeper shade of blue that represents the surface of Lake Suwa just before dawn.

In most lighting situations, the blue is dark, close to navy, but when the sun or other bright light hits the dial, you get flashes of lighter blues. The color is dynamic, which makes this watch one that you will tend to look at for more than just checking the time.

As beautiful as the color is, what puts the dial over the top is the texture. The pattern looks just like lapping waves and ripples on a lake. You owe it to yourself to see the SLGA021 in person if you can. As much as I love my Omega Seamaster, its wave-engraved blue dial can’t hold a candle to Lake Suwa. 

Another aspect of dials that Grand Seiko is renowned for is legibility. The indices and handset are precision-cut stainless steel with brushed surfaces that perfectly complement the case and are easy to see against the blue dial. The 12 o’clock index is a triple baton and the others double with tapering minute and hour hands and a needle second hand.

The Grand Seiko logo and name are displayed in silver at 12 o’clock and match up nicely with the hands and indices. 

The minute track sits around the outer edge and is easy to read with small ticks and slightly larger squares at the five-minute marks. There is a date complication at 3 o’clock with a brushed stainless steel frame. 

The number is a simple black font on a plain white background. Some people have expressed a preference for a date background that matches the dial, but remember, Grand Seiko is all about easy-to-read watches. The white complements the dial and stands out. I think they made the right choice here. 

There is no lume to be found at all. Although not 100% necessary, I like a nice bright lume on my more casual watches. It’s not enough to make me not want to own and wear the SLGA021, but a little lume would have been nice. 

Movement

Grand Seiko’s in-house movements are also innovative and impressive. The SLGA021 is powered by the caliber 9RA2 Spring Drive 38-jewel movement. One of Grand Seiko’s most impressive achievements is this movement, which combines the status of an automatic mechanical movement with the superior accuracy of quartz. 

The movement rates +/- 0.5 seconds per day. Yes, it’s that accurate. Equally impressive is the five-day power reserve. That’s right. You can put the SLGA021 down on Monday, pick it up on Friday, and it will still be running. That is a helluva movement.

Thanks to the exhibition case back, you can take a look at the power reserve indicator on the movement. It’s nothing special, looks-wise. Stainless with the Grand Seiko logo and name in blue, along with the words “5 Days”. I do like the blue needle on the power reserve, though. It pops. 

Straps

The bracelet is made from the same high-intensity stainless steel as the case and has a satin finish to match. It’s a three-link in a unique design. This is my least favorite part of the SLGA021. 

It looks good enough and holds nicely on the wrist with the threefold clasp, but it doesn’t have micro-adjustments. This is a watch that could easily be a GADA, but there is no easy way to adjust the bracelet when your wrist swells and contracts. 

The sizing is done with push pins rather than screws, as you would expect for a watch at this price point. The lug width is a standard 22 mm, which makes the bracelet easy to swap out. The SLGA021 looks good on pretty much any bracelet, leather, or even rubber or silicone straps. You’ve got plenty of options. 

On-Wrist Experience

Thanks to the high-intensity stainless steel, the SLGA021 feels light and comfortable on the wrist. The 40 mm case and 22 mm lug width are on the large side for current Grand Seiko watches. Unless your wrist is very small, it should still look and feel good. The 11.7 mm thickness will fit under most shirt cuffs, making it a watch that can be worn by everyday wearers and work with casual to smart casual outfits.

You could wear it with a suit, but if you’re dressing to the nines, you might want to go with something dressier. The Lake Suwa is more for dressing to the sevens or less. A button-up casual or dressy shirt, polo, or sport jacket, with slacks, chinos, or jeans, will pair well with this watch for a sharp look. You could also wear it with shorts and a nice T-shirt.

Colorwise, the sky’s the limit. Dark blue is a neutral color, and so are the stainless steel surfaces. You really can wear the SLGA021 with any color you may have in your wardrobe. That’s a nice accessory to have. 

My color palette is mainly black, grays, dark blues, and greens. This watch works beautifully with any of them. I don’t wear hot colors like reds or pinks, but I could see it providing a nice contrast to those.

Price & Availability

If you are intrigued and thinking about picking up one of these stunning timepieces, you can get one at a Grand Seiko boutique or from their website. An authorized dealer, such as Exquisite Timepieces, will also be able to hook you up. 

If you are in the Naples, FL, area, stop by our boutique. You really should see this watch in person. Otherwise, you can order it from our website. You’ll get free domestic shipping, and as an AD, we will give you Grand Seiko’s five-year warranty. 

The SLGA021 retails for $9,300, which is a good price for a quality watch from a prestigious brand. If you want to go the preowned route, you can grab one for between $6,300 and $8,500. 

Conclusion

Grand Seiko has an entire catalog of watches with gorgeous dials. The SLGA021 Lake Suwa takes it up a few levels. Combined with the overall design, the super-accurate movement, and the Grand Seiko status, this is a watch any lover of horology should check out. Once you put it on, you might never take it off. 

While beauty is subjective, certain things effortlessly capture attention. Nothing draws the eye more quickly in watches than a well-crafted dial, evoking emotion with its details—whether good or bad.

What makes a dial truly stand out? Is it the striking color of its face, the texture and subtle details of its base, or perhaps the craftsmanship behind the design of the hour markers? It could be a combination of all these elements working in harmony. The more you analyze a dial, the more you realize how each one is a carefully crafted piece of art, unique in its own right.

Watchmaking brands worldwide have become renowned for crafting dials that are almost emblematic, each reflecting their distinct heritage and identity. 

Over time, some brands have embraced experimentation, introducing innovative designs through bold choices. These creative departures offer a fresh perspective, showcasing the evolving artistry within the traditional craft of watchmaking.

If you’re new to watches, you might wonder, “What makes a dial stand out?” It’s the combination of details—shape, texture, markers, and hands—that turns a dial from functional into a timeless piece of art.

The Different Dial Patterns

Many elements make each dial unique, and, much like any building or structure as a form of art, it all begins with a solid foundation, or in the case of watches, the base. 

The dial’s base is essential to the watch’s overall aesthetic, acting not only as the surface where markers, hands, and other components are placed but also as one of the most intricate aspects of the watch. It doesn’t only act as a backdrop; the base is often crafted with remarkable detail, contributing significantly to the watch’s character and allure.

Dial bases come in a variety of styles and textures, many of which have become iconic within the watchmaking industry. For example, the sunburst dial is a radiant, lacquered style that interacts beautifully with light. 

Finely etched lines extend outward from the center, creating an effect that shifts and shimmers depending on the angle and lighting conditions. Some famous models include the Rolex Oyster Perpetual, some Omega Aqua Terra models, and (I add this one because it is my baby) the Seiko Alpinist SARB017. 

In my opinion, textured dials showcase some of the most captivating designs in watchmaking. The artistry required to create these intricate surfaces—whether achieved by machine or handcrafted—highlights the skill and dedication of watchmakers. For a glimpse of this artistry, look no further than the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA211 “Snowflake” or Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Tapisserie, both renowned for their exceptional dial textures.

One of the most notable textured dials is the Guilloché-style dial, known for its precise, geometric patterns. Crafted using a rose engine, this technique ensures flawless, intricate engravings that create a mesmerizing effect. 

Mastering this art takes years, but for those who have, the result is a true horological masterpiece. Watches like the Breguet Classique and the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony are prime examples of the stunning detail and craftsmanship this style brings to life.

Dials can range from simple, understated matte finishes to those crafted from delicate, refined materials like enamel. Some high-end luxury watches even feature skeleton dials, allowing a glimpse into the intricate inner workings of the timepiece. 

Each dial style adds its unique character, capturing the essence of the watch and enhancing its appeal to enthusiasts and collectors alike.

The Main Watch Dial Markings

Unique details and beautiful designs make watch dials an essential part of any wardrobe, enhancing both daily office wear and special occasion outfits. Yet, it’s vital to remember a wristwatch’s primary purpose. 

Its beauty holds little value without functionality; a truly exceptional watch balances aesthetics with the reliability that makes it indispensable. This blend of form and function relies on the precise components that enable timekeeping and, depending on the model, a range of additional features.

Hands

The hands on a watch are essential to its time-telling function, with a long minute hand and a shorter hour hand, each available in a range of designs and shapes. These elements enhance legibility and contribute an additional layer of aesthetic appeal to the watch’s overall design.

Baton hands are among the most traditional and recognizable styles in watchmaking. Their clean, rectangular design, which emerged in the mid-20th century, is celebrated for its simplicity and legibility. Baton hands adapt well to both sporty and dress watches, offering either a vintage charm or a contemporary look depending on the material used.

With the variety of watch hand styles available, choosing one that aligns with either a vintage or modern aesthetic is easy, allowing for a personalized touch to any timepiece. 

For those drawn to vintage-styled watches, consider pieces with cathedral hands, reminiscent of classic church window designs; sword-style hands, seen on models like Cartier; or dauphine hands, which add a touch of elegance on watches like Grand Seiko and Jaeger-LeCoultre. 

Some brands have even developed their own signature hand styles. For instance, the “Mercedes” hands have become iconic in many Rolex models, with their hour hand featuring a design that resembles the car brand’s logo. 

Tudor’s distinctive “Snowflake” hands, while not shaped like actual snowflakes, have also left a mark on watch enthusiasts. Originally mandated by the French Navy, this design was created to improve underwater visibility for divers, adding both functionality and a touch of history to the aesthetic.

Indices

To read the time, the hands must align with the indices, or hour markers, positioned around the dial. These indices serve as reference points for the hours and minutes and come in various styles to enhance both legibility and aesthetics. Like the hands, indices can be designed to suit different watch styles, adding another layer of character and functionality to the piece.

The style of indices can vary, as can the numerals they display. While many watches feature markers at every hour, others choose a more minimalistic approach, highlighting only the 3, 6, 9, and 12 positions. This selective approach can give the dial a cleaner look while maintaining ease of readability.

In the early days of horology, Roman numerals were commonly used to indicate the hours. While they still appear on some designs today, Arabic numerals have become the more prevalent choice for most watchmakers, offering a clean, traditional look that complements a wide range of dial styles.

Some prominent brands have opted to forgo numbers entirely, using shapes as indices to enhance functionality, legibility, or aesthetic appeal. Sleek, elongated indices resembling sticks or daggers lend a sophisticated look to dress watches, while baton or round indices often appear on sports and tool watches, providing a balanced and versatile design.

Branding

While each master craftsman leaves a unique touch on the dial design, it’s often the brand that ultimately sets one watch apart from another. From intricate, creative designs to minimalist, understated dials, the brand name on the face typically distinguishes whether a watch belongs to the entry-level or luxury class.

Branding plays a crucial role in the overall dial design, reflecting the heritage and philosophy of the brand. While styles and models may vary, the branding itself makes each watch instantly recognizable.

Omega and Rolex are renowned globally for their elegant, timeless watches, each piece celebrated for impeccable design and exquisite detail. Holding any model from these prestigious brands feels like handling watchmaking royalty, as the logo and brand name on the dial instantly signal their legacy and mastery.

This holds true for most brands—their name and often a logo grace the dial, typically just below the 12 o’clock marker. Some even include the specific model designation, adding an extra touch of identity and exclusivity that resonates with collectors and enthusiasts alike.

Dial Text

If the branding is text on the dial, then why is there a separate section for “dial text?” The answer is simple. Not every watch is as similar as it seems. 

The best example to use would be that of the Omega Speedmaster Racing Chronograph and the Omega Speedmaster Professional. While similar in appearance, they are quite different when it comes to inner workings and functionality. 

While the Omega Speedmaster features “Professional” lettering beneath the brand name, the Racing Chronograph omits this detail. Instead, it has “Co-Axial Master Chronometer” elegantly engraved above the 6 o’clock marker, adding a distinctive touch that highlights its advanced movement and certification.

Dial text provides insight into a watch’s functions and features, such as movement type—like Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive or Hi-Beat—or details like water resistance and country of origin. These subtle elements enhance the watch’s identity, offering enthusiasts a quick reference to its specifications at a glance.

Date Window

While a watch primarily serves as a timekeeping tool, it often includes a date window—a functional addition that provides an added sense of orientation, helping you stay aware of the day and date with just a glance.

Typically located at the 3 o’clock position, the date window is a small aperture on the dial displaying the current calendar date. Its color and size can vary, allowing watchmakers to integrate this feature as an additional element of the watch’s aesthetic appeal.

In fact, the date window’s position isn’t fixed; some brands opt for placements at 4:30 or 6 o’clock on certain models. This variation allows watchmakers to experiment with design while maintaining functionality.

The standard date window usually has a frame and a single-number wheel displaying 1–31. However, innovations for enhanced legibility have introduced the “big date” window, featuring two separate wheels—one for tens and another for single units. Some designs also incorporate a cyclops lens, magnifying the date by 2.5 times for improved visibility.

Some brands have taken it further by adding a day-date feature, displaying both the day and date on the dial. Others have gone even more intricate, incorporating the month for a “triple calendar” display. These additions bring added functionality while showcasing the craftsmanship and complexity behind each piece.

Subdials

If you’ve ever noticed smaller clock-like dials on a watch face, those are known as subdials. These multi-functional elements enhance the watch’s aesthetics while serving various purposes. 

Depending on the type of watch—be it a dress watch, sports watch, or chronograph—subdials can tell time, track elapsed minutes, or display additional features, adding a distinctive beauty and complexity to any timepiece.

Subdials are most commonly found on chronograph watches, allowing for precise time tracking through their stopwatch functionality. 

Typically arranged in a three-subdial layout, these dials include a minute counter, an hour counter, and a seconds counter, making them ideal for professionals in racing or aviation. This feature not only enhances functionality but also adds an intricate element to the watch’s design, appealing to enthusiasts who value precision and style.

Other subdials that add an extra touch of elegance to any dial include the power reserve subdial, which indicates how much power remains in a mechanical watch before it needs to be manually wound. The GMT subdial is perfect for globetrotters who want to keep track of time back home.

A beautifully unique option is the moon phase subdial, ideal for those who like to track lunar calendars. Alternatively, the perpetual calendar subdials provide separate tracking for the month, day, and date, enhancing the watch’s functionality while adding to its aesthetic appeal.

Complications

The last two sections share a common theme: they both highlight additional functions that a watch can perform beyond its primary purpose of telling time. The date window and the various subdials serve as complications, which are features that enhance the watch’s functionality. 

These complications, whether it’s displaying the date or tracking power reserve, GMT, moon phases, or calendar details, add depth and versatility to the timepiece, enriching the overall experience for the wearer.

GMTs, chronographs, and perpetual calendars are all considered complications in watchmaking. Their presence on a dial not only showcases the technical mastery of the skilled craftsmen and women who create these timepieces but also enhances the aesthetic appeal of the watch. 

These complications introduce intricate details and functionalities that reflect a blend of artistry and engineering, adding layers of sophistication and technical brilliance to the overall design. 

Artwork

In addition to intricate dial designs, some brands elevate their creations by incorporating actual artwork onto the dials. Whether through exquisite enamel work or painted scenes, these dials are transformed into genuine pieces of art. 

This artistic approach not only enhances the watch’s visual appeal but also reflects the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship and creativity, turning each timepiece into a unique expression of artistic mastery.

Conclusion

In the world of watches, the dial is the first detail that captures attention. From the exquisite intricacies of the dial’s base to the additional features that enhance its allure, the dial stands as a true work of art—whether extravagant or simplistic. 

Its design not only defines the watch’s character but also showcases the craftsmanship and creativity behind each piece, making it a focal point for enthusiasts and casual observers alike.

Our sense of personal taste, style, and function doesn’t have to end with the purchase of a wristwatch. But many don’t even explore the various options available to really make a timepiece their own—or to better suit it to a specific aesthetic or activity. 

For many, a nice pair of shoes can really bring an outfit together while also offering specific functionality. A good pair of boots can help you navigate rugged terrain.

A pair of basketball sneakers can give you better support for working out or training. A sleek pair of dress shoes can really elevate formal wear. 

But so many of us buy a watch and forget that we can make it our own. We’ll wear a leather band to the beach, or a NATO strap to a board meeting, or a metal bracelet to a black-tie event.

And while variety is the spice of life, a timepiece is, in actuality, extraordinarily flexible if we just consider changing the band or strap from time to time. 

A watch band is, after all, shoes for your wrist, so don’t be afraid to explore the many options that can make an older watch feel new again or to make your watch even more suited to the task at hand.

History of Watch Bands 

As many may know, the first watches were essentially miniature versions of clocks, so they were still too large to be worn on the wrist.

In the 16th century, these “miniature clocks” were known as pocket watches, and while they were small enough to be carried, they were typically attached to chains and worn in pockets (hence the name) or pinned onto clothing. 

The first wristwatch was created in the early 19th century by the legendary Abraham-Louis Breguet. He crafted this first wrist-worn timepiece for Queen Caroline Murat of Naples in 1810.

And for much of the 19th century, pocket watches reigned supreme, with a few wrist-worn pieces created for royalty. 

The prominence of wrist-worn watches didn’t begin until the early 20th century. In 1904, Cartier designed a watch for Alberto Santos-Dumont, an aviator with a “functional” need for accessible timekeeping while flying. 

And then the start of The Great War (World War I) required a more practical timekeeping solution for combat. Soldiers began strapping watches to their wrists, using makeshift leather straps or fabric brands to secure their pocket watches onto their wrists.

The rest is history—literally! 

Most Popular Watch Band Types 

So you want to change up the look of your timepiece. Or maybe you are about to head on a scuba adventure or mountainous trek, and you want something that is more comfortable or better suited to the outdoors. 

Here at Exquisite Timepieces, we aren’t only in the business of selling luxury timepieces, but we are also in the business of informing you, our readers and clients, about the most popular watch band types that exist. 

So sit back, relax, and get ready to journey down the winding—no pun intended!—road of watch bands. It is important to note that we will cover a good portion of the different types of straps and bracelets available, but the following list is not a fully exhaustive list.

Metal Bracelets

If strength, durability, and lightplay are at the top of your list, a metal bracelet is unparalleled in offering these traits.

They come in many shapes and sizes, with some types better suited to rugged wear while others bridge the difference between formal and informal attire. Every collector should have at least one good bracelet in their collection! 

Oyster

The brainchild of Rolex, the Oyster bracelet is the quintessential watch accessory. If you ask the average person to close their eyes and imagine a watch, chances are they will probably envision some type of dive watch on an Oyster bracelet. 

The broad, flat three-piece links are engineered for superior durability and comfort, making the Oyster bracelet ideal for diving or desk wear.

Because these watches are often built to the highest of standards, they have micro adjustment available via their robust clasps, offering even greater flexibility for wetsuits and wrist swelling.

Jubilee

Another invention from the crown, the jubilee bracelet is made up of a five-piece structure with semi-circular links, offering a more comfortable, form-fitting wear, as well as a dressier overall look.

The larger outer links are usually brushed, and the narrow inner links are polished, giving the jubilee bracelet an elegant appearance with eye-catching light play. 

The jubilee is the most appropriate bracelet for a dress watch, period. It also wears nicely on the weekend with a pair of jeans.

You’d be hard-pressed to find a more versatile bracelet; while they are robust for most activities, if a demanding physical activity calls for a metal bracelet, you would be better served with an Oyster or Engineer Bracelet.

President

The final bracelet on this list that was originally conceptualized and created by Rolex, the President bracelet is a dressier and more refined version of the Oyster bracelet. It is characterized by rounder, narrower, and wider links, arranged in rows of three.

There is a greater distinction and variation (depending on the model) of brushed versus polished textured surfaces, thus adding onto the lightplay and sophistication of the bracelet. 

Additionally, the President bracelet typically features a hidden clasp that maintains the sleek aesthetic, while the Oyster may have a more visible clasp design. This makes for a bracelet that is much better suited for formal occasions.

Engineer

The most underrated of metal straps that just so happens to be my favorite. Formed by rows of five narrow, tightly interlocking links, the Engineer bracelet has a unique pattern and superior wearability. Think about breaking one stick in half and then a bundle of sticks. 

The five links create a really strong and unique design, ultimately offering more “points” to conform onto the wrist, providing unmatched flexibility.

This combination makes the engineer bracelet both stylish and incredibly resilient for outdoor and active wear while offering a striking visual texture that’s hard to miss.

Mesh

Pick your poison: shark mesh or Milanese. The Shark Mesh bracelet takes its design cues from the protective mesh suits used by divers to shield themselves from shark attacks.

This kind of bracelet rose to prominence in the 1970s as diving watches gained popularity. Shark mesh bracelets are a bit more loosely woven when compared to their closest cousin: Milanese. 

The Milanese or “Milano” bracelet originated in 19th-century Milan, where artisans developed it as a form of chainmail. This beautiful mesh design eventually made its way into watch bracelets, offering a unique mix of flexibility, comfort, and style.

With its tightly woven stainless steel mesh, the Milanese bracelet has a sleek and fluid look that, at least in my own experiences, almost wears like a “second skin,” albeit one made from metal.

Leather Straps

We’ve all owned a watch on a leather strap. Maybe it was something cheap and stiff, or perhaps it was something luxurious and buttery, but likely, it was something in the middle, taking a bit of time to break in and become your own. Leather straps are ubiquitous in the world of watches today.

Aviator/Pilot

These leather straps are often thick and padded; this was done to conform to the historically “larger” dimensions and case thickness of pilot’s watches, which had to be large to offer superior legibility during flights. 

Sometimes featuring stainless steel studs near the widest portion of the strap, the pilot’s strap is crafted from various textures, ranging from smooth (top-grain) to rough (nubuck), and comes in colors like black, tan, and mocha brown.

Bund

I’ve never owned a bund strap. Sure, I’ve tried a few on, but they are far too large for smaller wrists, in my opinion. The term “bund” comes from the German word Bundeswehr, which means “Federal Defense.” 

The bund strap is unique in that it is a regular leather strap atop a larger and wider leather baseplate. This was done, specifically for pilots, to protect wrists from temperature changes and, thus, the friction/discomfort that metal watch cases would bring onto wrists due to drastic changes in temperature.

Dress

Dress watch straps come in all shapes and sizes. Some are crafted from exotic hides such as ostrich and crocodile, and others are merely embossed so as to appear that they are made from a leather other than calf. Leather straps can be padded or unpadded, depending on the watch accompanying the strap. 

Thicker and larger watches, with multiple complications, may call for a padded strap, while thinner, elegant pieces may call for an unpadded and sleek strap. Nevertheless, when in doubt, a leather dress strap is always appropriate for formal attire and events.

Rally

These straps are inspired by motorsports, particularly automotive racing. Many chronographs come on rally straps, as these watches are specifically built for the world of automotive sports. 

Rally straps have distinctive perforations that allow the wearer’s wrist to breathe, offering a more aggressive aesthetic that is both timeless and functional.

If you are looking to add a dynamic edge to your watch, or you are a car enthusiast of any sort, consider adding a rally strap to your collection. Steve McQueen would be proud! 

Fabric Straps

When the heat makes leather straps unbearably sweaty, and the frost renders metal bracelets bitingly cold, fabric straps emerge as the ultimate versatile choice: a jack of all trades, really. They can be dressed up or down, are very durable, and can be worn in water without worry.

NATO

NATO straps have a military history dating back to the 1970s. Originally designed by the British Ministry of Defense, their durability and style have made them one of the most popular watch straps available today. 

NATO straps are unique in that they have a safety flap that goes under the case to secure the watch if a spring bar breaks. Constructed from nylon, NATO straps are highly durable and ready for the battlefield, the bar, or the boardroom. 

Zulu

The Zulu strap is generally constructed from thicker nylon than its cousin, the NATO strap, though they can also be constructed from leather. The Zulu strap is based on military watch straps from the mid-20th century. 

The US military began using the Zulu style as early as the 1960s, and the name may come from the military’s use of Zulu time, which was the same as GMT or UTC time.

These straps are also durable because they are a single piece of nylon that goes through and under both spring bars, ensuring that the watch isn’t lost if one bar fails. This allows for the same durability as a NATO but with less strap bulk underneath the case.

Perlon

The perlon strap is made from a light, crisp, and elastic material that offers excellent breathability, making it ideal for hot summer days or extraneous activities. One of the standout features of this braided nylon is the ability to make micro-adjustments for the perfect fit. 

Thanks to its flexible and soft construction, you can easily slide the buckle’s pin into one of the strap’s numerous perforations, ensuring a perfectly comfortable and customized fit.

Cordura

This sailcloth style strap is constructed from durable Cordura®-nylon, known for its resistance to abrasion, tears, and scuffs. These straps are well known amongst the sailing and marine industries, and offer a stylish yet comfortable solution to salt, sand, and sea! 

Rubber Straps

Rubber straps have risen in popularity since the middle of the 20th century. As watch manufacturers recognized the demand for durable, waterproof options, they started to produce rubber straps that could withstand even the harshest of aquatic environments.

Waffle

The rubber waffle strap was made famous by Captain Willard (Martin Sheen) in the iconic movie Apocalypse Now when he wore it with his Seiko 6105.

The waffle strap offers a unique textured pattern that not only looks great but also helps the wrist breathe better and dry sooner if it becomes wet from water or sweat.

Do you want to be as cool as Captain Willard? If so, you should consider putting a dive watch on a waffle strap! 

Tropic

Tropic straps first appeared in the 1960s, created to meet the needs of scuba diving enthusiasts who wanted waterproof watch straps that could handle the tough conditions of saltwater.

Crafted from a new type of “synthetic rubber,” designed to be more resistant to saltwater and UV exposure.

Tropic straps have a unique pattern that intersects style and function, with perforations to enhance breathability and water drainage, thus making the straps amphibious.

Silicone

We’ve all heard of the wonders of silicone before, but have you ever tried one on your wrist? No leather in existence can match the utter comfort and suppleness of a silicone strap.

If you are looking for something that can weather any element, all while feeling supple and soft, you simply must have a silicone strap in your collection.

Choosing the Right Watch Band for You 

There are a myriad of options available when choosing the right watch band. As with anything, it is all about balancing form and function.

Do you want it to look a certain way, depending on what you are wearing? Do you want it to serve a specific role? If the answer to either of these questions is no, then just choose the band that tickles your fancy. 

But if you need a strap to complete a specific look or complement a certain activity, then you can’t go wrong in considering any of the aforementioned options.

I know they say that fashion doesn’t necessarily conform to comfort, but with the many materials available today, you can have fashion, function, and comfort all in one package!

How to Maintain Your Watch Bands 

Anyone who wishes to maintain their watch bands should always adhere to the manufacturer’s recommendations. That said, metal bracelets of any type can be cleaned with warm water, a mild soap, and a sponge or soft brush.

Rubber straps can be cleaned in the same way, and you can also consider using a rubber conditioner every couple of months to help repel water, dirt, and stains. 

Canvas straps of any variety can be cleaned with warm water, soap, and a soft brush or sponge. They should ALWAYS be air-dried.

Finally, leather straps may require a bit more maintenance, but I’ve always done really well with a horsehair brush and shoe cream or leather conditioner—neutral color of course.

Brush the dirt and debris off of the strap, apply and massage a thin layer of cream onto the shoe, and give it a good brush a few minutes later. 

Conclusion 

Who would have thought that there are so many options available to dress our watches up or down and to better prepare them for the specifics of any endeavor, be it work, play, or formal engagement? 

It’s always important to consider your own unique style and taste, too. Don’t just conform, and don’t be afraid to experiment.

Just because a timepiece comes with a specific strap or bracelet doesn’t mean that you aren’t allowed to change up the look! Be unique and have fun…at the end of the day, that’s what this hobby is all about.