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It’s common to find oneself longing for something just out of reach. Whether due to timing, circumstance, or practicality, the weight of temptation can feel almost unbearable. Nowhere is this truer than in the world of watch collecting.

With the exaggeration aside, let’s get to the point. High-end watches are undeniably expensive. Even in the pre-owned market, prices can be steep, making it challenging for seasoned collectors to find a good deal. But what if there were an entry-level option? A chance to experience a taste of luxury at a more modest price?

The Grand Seiko SBGP009 is an excellent entry point for those seeking luxury and precision without breaking the bank. This model demonstrates Grand Seiko’s dedication to perfecting quartz technology in a landscape where mechanical watches often dominate. 

It combines the best of the original quartz innovations with a fresh, modern design—offering a high-end experience at a fraction of the cost compared to their mechanical counterparts.

History

Although the first quartz-powered Grand Seiko debuted in 1988, the brand’s commitment to quartz technology dates back much further—nearly to the luxury brand’s inception. 

These early advancements would eventually inspire the team at Grand Seiko to craft a quartz-powered experience that redefined accuracy and precision, showcasing the brand’s dedication to innovation.

In 1969, Seiko made history by introducing the world’s first quartz-powered wristwatch, the Seiko Quartz Astron. Its debut showcased quartz’s superior accuracy compared to traditional mechanical watches. 

While the Quartz Astron wasn’t a Grand Seiko release, it set the stage for innovations that would eventually lead to Grand Seiko’s pursuit of the most accurate and precise quartz timepieces in the world.

About twenty years later, Grand Seiko released its first quartz watch, the 95GS. This model quickly set itself apart as the best quartz watch on the market, thanks to distinct upgrades made by Grand Seiko’s in-house developers, including an impressive accuracy of  +/-10 seconds a year. These upgrades highlight their commitment to precision and innovation, establishing the 95GS as a benchmark in quartz technology.

In its ongoing quest to create the world’s finest quartz watch, Grand Seiko introduced the Caliber 9F in 1993. This movement boasted key advancements, including mechanisms to minimize seconds-hand shuddering and ensure precise alignment with the markers, as well as an instant date-change feature. 

These impressive innovations established the 9F as a top-tier quartz movement, underscoring Grand Seiko’s commitment to precision and quality.

The 9F8 and 9F6 series of the 1990s underscored just how committed the Grand Seiko team was to elevating their quartz watches. They focused on making the movements as precise as possible while also designing the watches for comfort and ease of use. 

With these innovations, Grand Seiko propelled the status of quartz watches to new heights, demonstrating that quartz technology could offer both accuracy and luxury in equal measure.

The SBGP009 exemplifies Grand Seiko’s dedication to quartz innovation within the Heritage Collection. Released in 2020 as part of the 60th-anniversary Time-Only collection, it celebrates six decades of watchmaking excellence. 

Powered by the Caliber 9F85 and housed in the iconic 44GS case, it combines historical significance with modern advancements. Its champagne-colored dial adds a refined touch, making it an excellent choice for anyone seeking high-end quartz in a timeless design.

Case

The SBGP009 is housed in the vintage-inspired 44GS case, measuring 40mm in diameter, with a 47mm lug-to-lug width and a slim profile at 10.6mm thick. This classic design nods to Grand Seiko’s heritage while offering a comfortable fit for everyday wear.

The Grand Seiko Style watch belongs to the Heritage Collection, a fitting choice considering its case design. After the 1997 9F6 series introduced refined surfaces and enhanced comfort, Grand Seiko’s 2020 quartz lineup paid homage to the original 1967 case design, blending classic elements with modern craftsmanship.

The case’s curves and angles are designed to slant inward, allowing it to rest comfortably on the wrist. The inward-curved lugs also feature drilled holes, making it easy to switch out straps for a customized look.

The finishing on this watch is impeccable, embodying Grand Seiko’s philosophy that their timepieces should “sparkle with quality.” The skilled artisans at Grand Seiko have perfected the art of Zaratsu polishing, resulting in a mirror-like reflection that truly brings the watch to life. 

This meticulous finishing enhances the watch’s elegance and exemplifies the brand’s commitment to precision and craftsmanship.

The SBGP009 boasts a domed sapphire crystal over the dial and a mirror-polished bezel, with Zaratsu polishing across the case for that distinct Grand Seiko shine. 

The robust 11mm crown, positioned at 3 o’clock for easy grip, is semi-recessed to avoid wrist discomfort. With 100 meters of water resistance, this watch is a versatile choice for daily wear.

Dial

The SBGP009’s champagne sunburst dial truly evokes the elegance of the gilded era, reflecting light in a way that adds depth and warmth. It’s a perfect example of how Grand Seiko blends modern craftsmanship with classic, timeless aesthetics. 

The case beautifully complements the dial, featuring a polished bezel that enhances the dial’s design and makes it stand out even more. From a distance, the SBGP009 presents itself with that classic champagne hue. But as you bring it closer for a better look, the dial reveals a subtle gold shade, adding an unexpected layer of elegance.

A notable aspect of the SBGP009’s dial is its clean, uncluttered design. Unlike other models, it lacks additional details like lettering above the 6 o’clock marker or a power reserve indicator. 

Instead, the dial simply features the GS logo, which harmonizes with the champagne color, and “Grand Seiko” is elegantly printed in black. This minimalist approach highlights the watch’s refined aesthetic, allowing the essential details to stand out.

The hour and minute hands are beautifully faceted and expertly polished, with a flawless Zaratsu finish. Grand Seiko ensured this watch could handle the iconic dauphine hands by upgrading the movement (more on that later). 

The sharp angles and meticulous polishing add an extra layer of elegance, enhancing the overall sophistication of the design.

In addition to the hands, the hour markers are also highly faceted and polished, contributing to the watch’s refined appearance. The markers at 12, 6, and 9 o’clock are slightly wider, creating a balanced aesthetic. At 3 o’clock, you’ll find the date window, which seamlessly integrates into the design without disrupting the dial’s clean layout. 

The SBGP009 seamlessly blends elegance with advanced technology. Its Caliber 9F85 movement ensures that the second hand moves with flawless precision, landing exactly on each marker. Simple, graceful, and precise, this watch is a true pleasure to behold.

Movement

The Caliber 9F85, which debuted in 2020 for Grand Seiko’s 60th anniversary, represents a significant evolution in their quartz technology. 

Designed to phase out the 9F82, which had been in production since 2003, this movement encapsulates Grand Seiko’s commitment to refining quartz precision while celebrating its legacy. The SBGP009 is a perfect blend of tradition and innovation, honoring the past while advancing into the future.

Grand Seiko’s mission was to craft a quartz-powered watch that combined perfect accuracy with exceptional durability. Driven by this goal, their craftsmen and women worked tirelessly to elevate the quartz watch to a level worthy of being called a “luxury timepiece.”

The 9F85 movement, like its predecessor, boasts an impressive accuracy of ±10 seconds per year and a battery life expectancy of three years—a remarkable achievement for Grand Seiko. 

With several upgrades from the original, the 9F85 offers a modernized take on what could easily be considered one of the best quartz movements in the world.

The 9F85 truly embodies Grand Seiko’s innovation and dedication to quartz technology. By incorporating the Twin Pulse Control Motor, Grand Seiko created a quartz movement capable of handling the weight and complexity of the traditional Grand Seiko Style hands without compromising accuracy or battery life. 

This commitment to advancing quartz technology reflects the brand’s dedication to offering timepieces that can stand alongside mechanical watches in terms of both precision and craftsmanship.

The Backlash Auto-Adjust Mechanism might be my favorite feature of this movement. As a neat freak, I’ve always been bothered by seconds hands that miss their markers, even as a child. This feature ensures precision, satisfying my need for perfect alignment. 

The designers at Grand Seiko decided to fix that imperfection; a stuttering second hand that lands off its marker would be no more, thanks to an added hairspring, usually utilized in mechanical components.

The 9F85 movement includes an Instant Date Change mechanism, allowing for a precise date shift right at midnight. For frequent travelers, it also offers a Time Difference Adjustment feature, enabling the hour hand to be adjusted independently without interrupting the seconds hand, maintaining the movement’s accuracy across time zones.

Grand Seiko enhanced durability in the SBGP009 by incorporating a low-power IC that regulates temperature, optimizing battery life. Additionally, an upgraded shield protects the movement’s inner workings, ensuring this watch remains reliable for years while showcasing top-notch quartz technology.

Straps

The bracelet on the SBGP009 beautifully complements the dial’s aesthetic, with Zaratsu polishing extending across its surfaces, including the side bevels and clasp. This attention to detail ensures that the bracelet enhances the watch’s overall elegance and refinement.

The SBGP009 features a classic three-link Oyster-style bracelet with a secure three-fold clasp. While it lacks a micro-adjustment feature, the screwed-in links make it easy to adjust, ensuring a snug and comfortable fit, especially for those with smaller or medium-sized wrists. The bracelet’s design prioritizes both form and function, offering a well-balanced feel that complements the watch’s overall refinement.

With a 20mm lug width and drilled holes in the lugs, finding a replacement strap for the SBGP009 is straightforward and enjoyable. It opens up opportunities to experiment with different straps, allowing you to find one that perfectly complements the vibe of the champagne dial.

On-Wrist Experience

My first experience with the SBGP009 was a pleasant surprise. Unlike other Grand Seikos I’ve tested, it lacked the boldness and pizzazz of their mechanical and Spring Drive models. Handling it felt different—lighter and with fewer moving parts. 

The dial, devoid of extra lettering, a power reserve indicator, or a quartz-powered label at the bottom, seemed stripped of detail. Yet, despite these minimalist choices, it felt pristine and looked just as elegant as its counterparts.

After just a couple of link adjustments, the SBGP009 felt comfortable and light on my wrist. Its case design and curved lugs ensured a perfect fit. 

The minimalistic style truly shines when exposed to light; a well-designed dial interacts beautifully with its surroundings. Some dials perform better under artificial lighting, while others thrive outdoors, but this champagne dial excels in both settings. 

I would wear this beautiful piece everywhere I go when I have it. The SBGP009 can be worn around and handled for everyday activities. No, I wouldn’t go rock climbing or do any sort of physical activity with it on, but for a night out, a day on the boat, or a special occasion, this watch becomes a quartz-powered pièce de résistance. 

I was asked about it several times by those who liked watches casually and those whose eyes popped out when they read Grand Seiko on it. There is something so enticing about the simplicity of the dial and how good it looks on metal bracelets and leather straps. 

Pricing

The elegantly simple SBGP009 is available at a retail price of $2,600, with pre-owned options typically priced around $1,700. It can be purchased today at Exquisite Timepieces.

Conclusion

As a daily watch, the SBGP009 is an excellent choice. It’s an entry-level luxury piece for those curious about handling a Grand Seiko. While it doesn’t feature a Spring Drive or mechanical movement, it represents the pinnacle of quartz technology available today. For avid collectors, it adds variety to a predominantly mechanical collection. 

This is a watch that radiates elegance and excellence, with the ease of switching straps and bracelets to suit any occasion. The SBGP009 blends timeless design, Grand Seiko’s dedication to quartz innovation, and unparalleled craftsmanship into an elegant, versatile timepiece—making it an ideal choice for those seeking both luxury and daily practicality.

I’m quite happy to admit I’m a Seiko fan girl. The majority of my collection is made up of designs from this Japanese watchmaker, including several 5 Sports, Presage, Prospex, and Grand Seiko models. But most of the watches I own aren’t actually marketed towards my wrist. 

By this, I mean these watches are typically 38mm or above in diameter – but as a lover of an oversized timepiece, this isn’t something that puts me off at all. But, since Seiko and their luxury counterpart company, Grand Seiko, lack a lot of smaller women-orientated watches, it has sadly meant a lot of women – and men with smaller than average wrists – have missed out on an opportunity to wear one of these incredible timepieces. 

That’s not to say there are no 35mm and below Grand Seiko watches out there because there are. But the selections are a little limited. It’s why you’ll often find small-wristed folk opting for the wider selections of women’s watches offered by the likes of Rolex, Omega, and Longines. 

This is a shame because more women deserve to own and wear the beauty of a Grand Seiko watch. So, if there was one Grand Seiko ladies watch worth a second look, which one would it be? In my opinion, the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 is up there on the list.

The Importance of a Grand Seiko Ladies Snowflake

Okay, so let’s talk about the Grand Seiko Snowflake dial and why bringing the crisp white textured centerpiece into a lady’s watch was one of the best decisions Grand Seiko could have made. 

The Snowflake, originally launched in 2010, captured the hearts of watch lovers all around the world with its unique dial that beautifully resembles the look of freshly fallen snow. The texture is delicate yet strikingly beautiful, representing the serene beauty of winter in Japan. 

Because of its unique look, the Grand Seiko Snowflake watch has since become one of the Japanese watchmaker’s best-selling timepieces. But sadly, before the launch of the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 I’m reviewing today, the dial was typically housed within cases of 38mm to 40mm wide. 

So, by introducing a women’s version of the Snowflake, Grand Seiko has not only satiated those of us with smaller wrists but also opened the door for more women to step into the extraordinary world of Grand Seiko and, in turn, fall in love with more Grand Seiko watches. 

It’s a genius move from Grand Seiko if you ask me. It’s not just about creating a smaller watch – which, of course, we all appreciate – but it’s also about inviting more women into the landscape of luxury horology, allowing more people to appreciate the craftsmanship and elegance that Grand Seiko represents.

Grand Seiko’s Smallest Case

So since one of the biggest selling points of the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch is its dimensions, let’s start there. This release is one of Grand Seiko’s smallest dress watches, sized at 28.9mm wide and with a thickness of just 8.7mm. It also has a compact lug-to-lug width of 35.4mm. It wears incredibly well on my five-and-a-half-inch wrist, feeling comfortable and unobstructive. 

Without naming names, there are several watch brands I know of that tend to skimp on some of the finer details of their women’s watches. Thankfully, Grand Seiko is not one of them. They’ve constructed the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch with all the high levels of detailing and finishing you’d expect to find on their larger men’s watches. 

For starters, the case is almost entirely Zaratsu polished, a meticulous process that involves hand-polishing each surface to achieve a flawless, mirror-like finish. It’s a technique that takes up to three years to learn, seeing talented artisans hold the precious stainless steel metal against a spinning tin plate at a precise angle and with just the right amount of pressure. 

In addition to the Zaratsu polishing, there are also satin-brushed elements, mainly on the bracelet and the tops of the gently curved lugs. These satin-brushed finishes introduce a subtle contrast to the polished surfaces, adding depth and complexity to the overall design. This combination of finishes helps to enhance the dressy appeal of the design, bringing most of your attention to the bright polished surfaces. 

In a similar fashion, the dual-curved sapphire crystal glass placed on top cleverly brings your attention to the Snowflake dial at the center. The glass, with its seamless flow from case to dial, enhances the overall aesthetic and places the unique textures and details front and center. 

Sapphire crystal glass is also well-known for its durability and scratch resistance, making it ideal for those of you who want a luxury watch that will last. The inner surface features a layer of anti-reflective coating to help minimize glare, which helps you appreciate the snow-like texture of the dial even further without any distractions. 

The case of the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch is completed by a gently knurled crown at 3 o’clock engraved with the GS logo and a screw-down case back beautifully embossed with the Japanese brand’s logo and their iconic lion emblem in relief. 

Together, the crown and case back warrant a healthy 100-meter water resistance, so having this watch out in the rain or on the wrist while watching dishes won’t be a problem.

The Snowflake Dial

While the case dimensions of the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch are certainly a major attraction for those of us with smaller wrists, the real star of the show is, without a doubt, the iconic Snowflake dial. 

This mesmerizing dial has become synonymous with Grand Seiko, arguably putting the brand on the map for many collectors. What I truly appreciate about this watch is that Grand Seiko has ensured that the women’s version is just as spectacular as the men’s offerings without any compromises in design or craftsmanship. 

The Snowflake dial maintains the classic aesthetic that collectors adore, with its enchanting texture that mirrors freshly fallen snow. It’s one of those dials that draws you in, captivating your attention and mesmerizing you. Honestly, it can be a bit dangerous for me to wear a watch like this, as I often find myself staring at it rather than focusing on whatever task is at hand! 

Another thing I love about the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch’s dial is the simplicity of its layout. Unlike some of the larger models in the Snowflake family, this model doesn’t feature a power reserve indicator between the 7 and 8 o’clock marker. Instead, this release focuses solely on presenting the time and date. 

This design choice was probably forced upon Grand Seiko’s designers due to the lack of room available on such a small watch. But I’m glad that was the case since it’s a choice that adds to the watch’s elegance and allows the texture of the dial to take center stage. 

In keeping with Grand Seiko’s commitment to craftsmanship, all the hands and markers on the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359’s dial are Zaratsu polished, contributing to its luxurious feel. The hour and minute hands are elegantly shaped, sharp, and sword-like, catching the light beautifully as they sweep across the dial. 

Each hour marker is hand-faceted, showcasing the meticulous attention to detail that Grand Seiko is renowned for. The seconds hand is the only real touch of color, finished in stunning blued steel. Finally, the border around the date is polished and outlined in silver, framing the black-on-white date wheel with precision.

A Highly Accurate Quartz Movement

The Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 is powered by the Caliber 4J52 movement, a quartz caliber crafted in-house by Seiko. I have to be honest; part of me feels a little disappointed that they released this Snowflake women’s watch with a quartz movement instead of a mechanical one. 

After all, Grand Seiko is renowned for its exceptional mechanical watches, and it would have been a dream to see this stunning design powered by none other than a Spring Drive movement. However, the 4J52 is a trusted quartz caliber with impressive accuracy, with a deviation of no more than ±10 seconds per day.

This precision is a significant selling point for the watch, making it an excellent choice for those who appreciate reliability in their timepieces. Plus, it’s one of the reasons this particular Grand Seiko model is among the most affordable options in the lineup. While I would have loved to see a mechanical movement here, I understand the considerations at play. The Spring Drive mechanism, while brilliant, has certain limitations in terms of size.

For now, I’m content to embrace the accuracy and dependability of the Caliber 4J52. It provides peace of mind that I won’t be constantly adjusting the time, plus I can easily take it off the wrist for several days at a time without ever having to twist the crown or shake up the movement to get its power pumping. And who knows, perhaps one day Seiko will create a smaller version of their Spring Drive for us small-wristed folk.

Straps

The stainless steel bracelet is a nice and expected complement to the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch. It is predominantly engineered with satin-brushed surfaces and Zaratsu polished sides that catch the light beautifully. The polished sides are a particularly nice touch, especially for their slightly rounded silhouette, which not only ensures a comfortable fit on the wrist but adds an extra touch of luxury and sophistication to the design.

Following the classic Oyster design, this bracelet is narrower than standard GS models, which suits the delicate nature of the women’s Snowflake watch perfectly. The links lead down to a standard folding clasp embossed with the Grand Seiko logo in relief. 

It’s worth noting that the clasp lacks micro-adjust holes, which could make finding that perfect fit a bit more challenging. However, the design does come with drilled lugs, so strap changes are made easy. That means that if you want to switch things up, you can easily find alternative straps, like a nice leather band, to fit the 14mm lug width without problem.

On-Wrist Experience

Finally, let’s discuss how the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 wears on the wrist and how it felt on me this past week. First of all, this watch is ideal for everyday practicality. 

It’s barely noticeable on the wrist when your sleeves are rolled down thanks to the compact dimensions  — 28.9mm in diameter, 35.4mm lug-to-lug, and only 8.7mm in thickness – and the quartz movement. It’s almost weightless because of the latter, allowing it to disappear seamlessly on the wrist.

And yet, despite this, once the sleeves are rolled up, that Snowflake dial has a quiet confidence that attracts just the right amount of attention. The beautiful crisp white texture is a sight to behold, and during my time wearing this model, I received so many compliments on it. 

Because of this, although it wears effortlessly as a daily beater, you could easily get away with using this as a formal dress watch too. In fact, it’s the perfect one-watch collection, working well for pretty much any situation.

As for what wrist size best suits the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch, that ultimately comes down to how prominent you want the watch to appear. I have a five-and-a-half inch wrist, and it sat perfectly on my arm without feeling over or undersized. 

If you have smaller wrists and love something even daintier, then this would be the perfect watch for you. On the other hand, if you have large wrists but love the vintage look a small watch gives, then you’ll love it just as equally.

Price & Availability

As previously mentioned, the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch is one of the Japanese watch manufacturer’s most affordable models, retailing brand new for $2,300. If you want to purchase this model brand new, a quick word of warning: be sure to order from an authorized Grand Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces. 

At least then, you’ll know you’re getting a genuine Grand Seiko watch with all the official paperwork and warranty. This is a watch also available on the second-hand market, typically selling for around $1,500. The watch remains a permanent addition to Grand Seiko’s women’s collection and is not a limited edition.

Conclusion

If you couldn’t tell, I think the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch is beautiful and well-thought-out. But most importantly, I think it’s a wonderfully significant addition to the watch world. It brings one of the industry’s most coveted dials to women in a beautiful, compact form. 

This design not only satisfies collectors like myself but also entices new female enthusiasts into the horological community. Could this watch be improved by a mechanical movement? Yes. But do its small dimensions and insanely reasonable price point make up for that? Absolutely.

The avid timepiece enthusiast in me has always considered dive-watch culture as the most prominent experience in this hobby. The dive-watch was born out of a necessity as an essential tool, made for professionals doing jobs underwater for extended periods, during which the wearer’s life would depend on it keeping the correct time. Moreover, dive watches were put to the test during war times in the harshest environments; therefore, they needed to be built to last. 

What is most fascinating about dive watches is how their legible and robust design, in the modern era, has appealed vastly to a mature segment of collectors called sports watch enthusiasts for being elegant, sporty, versatile, and, most importantly, fashionable. 

Therefore, the nature of its existence, history, and relevance today has made the dive-watch special in my view.

A fan favorite in the dive-watch segment is Seiko, with a number of iconic and significant timepieces in its history that have inspired a modern tool watch collection that esteemed collectors highly rate. 

This reputation for greatness elevates the status of the Grand Seiko Divers collection, which aims to push the boundaries of great watchmaking further than ever before. It is known that Grand Seiko was essentially created for the Seiko Group to produce the best watches possible with its best minds. 

The watchmaker is famous for its usage of hand finishings and groundbreaking movement technology that have made its watches stand out against the competition. The Spring Drive 5 days Diver’s 200m SLGA015, the first dive-watch to release under the watchmaker’s modern flagship Evolution 9 range, is a strong contender to be its greatest dive-watch ever.

History

The SLGA015 is an evolution of an essential 200m water-resistant Grand Seiko Diver that saw its launch in 2008. This model started as the SBGA029 in stainless steel and SBGA031 in titanium, offered with a Spring-Drive Caliber 9R65 and later also with a High-Beat 9S85 Caliber. 

The model is still current, in newer references (SBGA463 in Titanium), following minor updates since its introduction. It met many benchmarks of the watchmaker, as it was the flagship and very first Grand Seiko Diver to be released. 

Its design was, most importantly, visually pleasing while drawing inspiration from Seiko Divers icons of the past; therefore, it possesses proven case lines and dial symmetries to make a highly legible and robust watch. Setting itself apart in luxury was its first time seeing a tribute in design to fundamental Grand Seiko grammar of design elements.

The SLGA015, unveiled in 2022, is the new flagship diver from Grand Seiko, as mentioned before, an evolution of the SBGA463 from the Sport Collection. The SLGA015 now sits within the Evolution 9 Collection, a range that evolves the grammar of style introduced since the 1967 44GS, with modern case lines, greater attention to detail, a more comfortable wearing experience, and the latest movement technology.

Case

The SLGA015 case lines have all the hallmarks of an elegant yet, robust divers timepiece. Its design best makes use of Grand Seiko’s lavish hand finishings while being faithful to the watchmaker’s grammar of design and evolving its lines into the modern era, as is the intended purpose of the Evolution 9 range. 

Its case is made of high-intensity titanium, a metal familiar to Grand Seiko. It is considered a superior metal for dive watches due to its lightness and corrosion resistance. Unlike other titanium, High-intensity titanium has a brilliant sheen and is finished to an incredibly high standard with Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu Technique.

Zaratsu finishing is done by hand to form the case lines of the SLGA015; this is how the sharp angles are crafted on Grand Seiko cases. This model’s more curvaceous case lines are elevated by its many facets, allowing for its robust shape to appear luxurious and refined. 

Its hairline-finished lugs are sleek and feature facets on either side and even its bottom, acting as mirror-finished bevels that glint in the light and reduce the visual heft from the front and sides of the 43.8mm by 13.8mm case. 

The curved side profile of the timepiece is hairline-finished and surrounded by mirror-finished bevels on the top and bottom, again reducing its visual heft when viewed from its side. The lugs on the right contour towards the center of the case form faceted crown guards for an engraved screw-down crown at 3 o’clock, allowing for 200m of water resistance.

The dive bezel of this model sees an update from its predecessor with a new “high grade” shatterproof ceramic insert. Ceramic is superior to DLC insert bezels because they have a luxurious luster and are impossible to scratch. The outer edge of the bezel features large teeth with a sharp knurling that is easy to grip. It is presented in two metal finishings with polished recesses and hairline-finished outer faces. 

The bezel action is crisp and comparable to the best in the industry. There is a lumed pearl at 12, and its minute markings are white in contrast to the black ceramic surface. A sapphire crystal sits flush in the bezel and has an Anti-reflective coating for maximum dial visibility.

Dial

The dial of this timepiece is inspired by the Kuroshio Current, also known as the Black Stream, that appears in the oceans that surround the Japanese archipelago. The Black Stream and its dynamic/violent tides inspire the deep black color and lavishly textured surface of the dial. 

This is visually the “main character” of the watch, seen in person, it is deceivingly alive in its three-dimensional guise. A black chapter ring with white markings in one-minute increments surrounds the dial and brings cohesion. 

Although beautifully textured, the dial also possesses all the right traits of a highly legible diver. All markers and hands carry generous coatings of Lumibrite. It also has a large handset and markers presented in a unique, legible format. Exclusive to the Evolution 9 models, this timepiece features a double wide index at 12 o’clock, with the rest of the markers following the typical dive-watch layout. 

All markers are multifaceted for the best presentation. From its center are aviation-style cathedral hands with a broad arrow minute hand. These are hairline-finished for better contrast. Its minute hand can be seen with a lollipop counterweight. 

A power reserve indicator can be found at 8.30 o’clock, displaying 5 days of power reserve. Finally, a white date window can be seen at 3 o’clock. Detail is not spared here as it has its own white frame and a lumed marker on the chapter ring beside it.

Movement

The SLGA105 is hugely defined by its incredible movement, the Caliber 9RA5, a next-generation Spring Drive movement allowing for an evolution within the Grand Seiko range, hence, birthing the Evolution 9 collection. 

The 9RA5 is far superior to its “still” highly impressive predecessor, the 9R65. For reference, when the 9R65 was released in 2004, it was the first spring-driven movement able to rival the accuracy of a quartz watch, with an accuracy of plus or minus 1 second per day, also offering 72 hours of power reserve; astonishing specifications for the time. 

The 9RA5 halves this accuracy to plus or minus 0.5 seconds per day, and its Dual-Size Barrels save space and expand its capacity to a 5-day power reserve. An Offset Magic Lever reduces the thickness of the 9RA5 by a considerably large 0.8mm from its predecessor, and moving the crown backward lowers the center of gravity of the timepiece for an improved wearing experience. 

Finally, a One-Piece Center Bridge increases its strength, durability, and shock resistance. Additional features include a hacking seconds, a date complication with quick-set, and a power reserve indicator.

Grand Seiko is able to lead the way in movement technology due to its vertically integrated manufacturing, which allows every component and even its tools to be manufactured and developed in-house. 

The watchmaker has a long history of its unwavering dedication to human and technology-related resources to offer the very best in innovation in the quest for accuracy, reliability, and value-driven luxury finishings. The watchmaker developed such an incredible “hybrid movement” like the 9RA5 due to its vast expertise in high mechanical watchmaking and industry-leading quartz technology.

Straps

The SLGA015 is exclusively equipped with a High-intensity titanium bracelet. It has a five-link design with distinctive flat links. Its material is not the only thing similar to its case, as it features primarily hairline finishings for a robust divers looks and durability and mirror beveling on the shoulders of its links to keep up with the refinement of the case; this aesthetic is in tune with the Evolution 9 style. Also in line with Evolution 9’s incremental improvements is its thicker and more solid build. 

The bracelet’s lug-to-lug measures a massive 23mm and tapers aggressively down to 18mm, balancing the visual heft and improving the wrist comfort of its large case. Drilled lugs allow for easy strap changes. However, aftermarket straps will be difficult to find due to the rarity of 23mm lug-to-lug watches in the market. Its links are removable with pins and sleeves, and there are several divots on the clasp for the ideal anchoring points of the bracelet. 

A ratcheting divers extension allows for incremental adjustments while the watch is on the wrist and can be extended over a dive suit if necessary. The clasp is a twin trigger release with a clamshell on top featuring an embossed Grand Seiko logo.

On Wrist Experience

Timepiece trends of today welcome the luxury dive-watch not only as an underwater tool but as a modern-looking timekeeping device that is versatile for almost any occasion. The Spring Drive 5-days Diver’s 200m SLGA015 is a formidable release for sports watch enthusiasts to consider for a go-anywhere, do-anything timepiece. However, it is let down by its performance-inspired “large” 43.8mm case diameter. 

The watch can be worn proportionally on wrists that have a minimum circumference of 16cm. Those who are close to this number, like me, will find the watch to look and feel overly sporty. Therefore, the watch will appeal to a wearer with a larger wrist or a wearer with an affinity for highly legible, performance-focused luxury dive watches.

While the timepiece is on the extremes of what my wrist can accommodate, the SLGA015 is a beautiful and feature-rich offering. Its design pays tribute to iconic dive watches of the past and from its own history, while offering a modern flavor, great attention to luxury details, and unique aesthetics; all factors the timepiece is expected to deliver. 

Its dial is its most distinctive feature, especially in the flesh, with a texture that tells a story about its nautical inspiration. It is dynamic, plays with the light all the time, and displays a high level of finishing that is a joy to explore. Its case and bracelet are also pleasing to the eyes, as their inherently sporty lines have been made beautiful with more facets elevated with Zaratsu hairline and mirror finishings that play with light and shadow. 

Its metal composition of High-intensity titanium is a high-tech experience on the wrist that allows the watch to wear as light as a much smaller dive watch. Additionally, its bracelet design and high adjustability are positive points for its wrist comfort.

The style of this watch is on trend. Its luxurious execution, and durable construction allow it to be worn in any environment and compliment any outfit. Be it in a dive suit, with super casual clothes, or even with a suit. When you witness the smooth sweep of its seconds hand, it is always a reminder that a beast of a movement lurks inside, able to deliver incredible accuracy.

Price & Availability

The price of the SLGA015 will amount to $11,600 as a brand-new item or can be found priced between $8,000-$9,000 pre-owned. Should you wish to try on or even purchase this incredible timepiece, you can find it at any authorized dealer of Grand Seiko timepieces. 

One such dealer is Exquisite Timepieces, and you can purchase the watch on our website or boutique in Naples, Florida. An authorized dealer is recommended for new or used Grand Seiko timepieces since they will most likely be able to have your desired timepiece in stock, have the correct expertise that can be relied on, and offer you added benefits like a warranty on your new or used purchase.

Conclusion

The SLGA015 enters a crowded and mature segment with the choice of many modern-day and vintage dive-watch icons, yet it is immune to the aura of even the strongest competition. It possesses the looks and the specifications of a performer, with a combination of a functional design, high-tech materials, and luxury finishings. It stands out with unique storytelling design characteristics implemented in a tasteful manner. 

Last, but not least, it introduces the next generation of movement technology from the watchmaker into the dive-watch segment, which within and even outside, is considered to be revolutionary and unrivaled.

I have had the privilege of being a luxury watch collector and enthusiast for over a decade, like myself, any astute collector with a mature amount of knowledge in haute horology can appreciate the significance Grand Seiko has as a profound watchmaker that at some point in our watch journey, “blew our minds”. 

Seiko is the founder of quartz technology, which brought precision timekeeping to the masses. Shortly after, it became the largest watchmaker in the world. Grand Seiko was created as a benchmark for its most brilliant minds to relentlessly create the best timepieces.

The SBGC205 is a revolutionary sports chronograph from Grand Seiko. It is an intriguing option in the realm of haute horology chronographs, a seemingly unassuming timepiece, yet, a behemoth in its display of industry-leading technology that is equally balanced with wrist charm.

In its pursuit of precision, reliability, and accuracy, this timepiece harmonizes its tribute to fine mechanical watchmaking and modern-day technology through its Spring Drive Movement. 

To be discovered by its wearer is a quintessentially Japanese luxury timepiece design, fashioned in a lightweight material with supreme finishing and housing an extremely high-tech movement offering many impressive features such as a chronograph, GMT, power reserve indicator, date complication, and automatic winding.

History

In 2004 Grand Seiko finally realized a dream and a feat of 27 years with the launch of its first Spring Drive Caliber, the 9R65 in the 9R6 series. The concept of Spring Drive was to combine a traditional mainspring with an electronic regulator. The final result would deliver an accuracy of 1 second a day, equal to that of electronic watches, on which its target was initially set. 

It also managed a power reserve of 72 hours, an equally astonishing feat. The first Grand Seiko Chronograph, Spring Drive Chronograph, and most accurate luxury chronograph would launch shortly after in 2007 in the 9R8 Series, the family belonging to the SBGC205, powered by the Caliber 9R86.

The SBGC205 from the Sport Collection is a second-generation model from 2017 featuring Grand Seiko Branding, updated upon the similar SBGC005 launched in 2007 that featured Seiko/Grand Seiko dual branding from when the Grand Seiko line was under the Seiko umbrella and not its own brand.

Case

At a glance, the case of the SBGC205 appeals to its Sports Collection/Chronograph nameplate. Featuring a large and legible 43.5mm case that is 16.4mm thick, sporty lines, bold pushers, and mostly hairline finishings.

Familiar to the watchmaker, it is fashioned completely in High-intensity titanium, the perfect metal for a sports chronograph of its kind due to its high strength-to-weight ratio, lightweight wearing experience, and darker rugged sheen that plays well with the sports aesthetic of the timepiece. Additionally, this metal is hypoallergenic for wearers with sensitive skin.

Grand Seiko timepieces are reputed for their exquisite Zaratsu hand finishings. Zaratsu is different to conventional polishing as it uses a metal disk with an abrasive sheet that grinds the metal surface to create ultra-flat surfaces on multiple planes brought to a sharp point, which is how sharp angles are created on Grand Seiko cases; this is done by hand. 

The hairline finish called Sujime, featured mostly on the SBGC205, gives it a sporty look and scratch resistant qualities, it is also done by hand above already Zaratsu mirror finished surfaces.

Viewed in detail, the sporty case lines of the SBGC205 features sloping flanks defined by a continuous thick mirror finished chamfer that merges into hairline finished wide tapering and sloping lugs. 

Its bezel is sloped and mirror finished, complimenting an open view to its dial through a Dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on its inner surface for enhanced legibility. The many facets and finishings of this timepiece balance its visual mass exquisitely well.

What doesn’t go unnoticed, giving it a bold design, are its large 1964 Tokyo Olympics Stopwatch inspired screw-in two stage construction chronograph pushers that allow for 100m of water resistance and have been made with large barrels with generous fluting for ease of use. They also feature mirror polish and match the winding/time setting crown of the watch. 

The case-back of this timepiece is cupped in shape and measures about 3mm, it holds in place a flat transparent sapphire crystal that allows for easy viewing of its delicious 9R86 Caliber.

Dial

There is a lot to be discovered in the feature rich and high finish dial of the SBGC205. What it displays is two time zones, a 12 hour chronograph, a date, and its power reserve of 72 hours. 

It takes on a handsome gilt configuration, with a glossy black dial and mostly contrasting golden indications. Its rehaut has white traces and minute indications in 5 minute intervals, along this periphery are also 24 hour indications in white. Adhering to the Grand Seiko style many facets feature on this dial so that it may sparkle with quality, these are seen on its gold plated minute/hour hands and indices that are satin finished and polished on their bevels. 

Other gold plated polished surfaces are its off centered Grand Seiko logo at 11 o’clock, and its date aperture at 3 o’clock that houses a monotone black date disk that matches the dial perfectly.

The main function of the SBGC205, a 12 hour chronograph, is read through three registers. For seconds, a counterweighted lancet style silver hand rotates from its center for easy readability. The minutes and hours are sub-dials with white markings and silver hands that are stacked vertically around the date window on the right side of the watch, with minutes placed at 1.30 o‘clock measuring up to 30 minutes, and hours placed at 4.30 o’clock measuring up to 12 hours. 

For symmetry, the left side of the dial is balanced with a small-seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock for the running seconds with white indications and a gold hand instead of silver. Similarly, for its power reserve, a gold hand that rotates along a 90 degree axis with white indications can be seen at 7 o’clock. 

Finally, for viewing of additional time zones, a GMT hand with an arrow indication in silver attached to a black stem that camouflages itself with the dial can be seen rotating along its dial from its center.

Movement

The Spring Drive technology that powers the SBGC205 is completely unique to Grand Seiko and cannot be replicated by any other watchmaker in the industry. This feat has been achieved due to Grand Seiko’s vertically integrated manufacture; which means everything is made in house, and due to the watchmaker’s vast expertise in mechanical techniques and industry leading quartz technology developed for its own watches.

The Spring Drive 9R86 Caliber seen in the SBGC205 is the most precise spring driven chronograph in the world. Delivering a precision of plus or minus 1 second a day, and measures elapsed time up to 12 hours through its chronograph with the same accuracy. It is automatic winding and has an impressive 72-hour power reserve.

The movement is equipped with high mechanical watchmaking technology, with its vertical clutch and column wheel configuration ensuring precise operation. Its glide motion hand powered by an electronic regulator stops instantly as its pusher is pressed, allowing it to measure time exactly and accurately. 

This accuracy is helped by its unique two stage chronograph pushers allowing for instant action, it has also been designed with comfort in mind and produces a satisfying click with the right amount of resistance. 

Additional features include a power reserve indicator, a date complication, and a GMT function that allows its wearer to measure an additional time zone.

The 9R86 is a complex Caliber with over 400 parts and 50 jewels. It is assembled in the hands of a small number of Grand Seiko artisans within its Shinshu Watch Studio in the Nagano Prefecture of Japan. 

Its finishing is superb with Grand Seiko’s distinct striping, called line graduation stripes. The column wheel as well as gold-colored chronograph minutes and hour wheels are visible, allowing for the chronograph mechanism to be viewed while in action. For the spring drive enthusiast, the Glide Wheel can also be seen in motion.

Straps

The titanium cased SBGC205 comes equipped only with a suitable titanium bracelet. Just like its case, it is hand finished and therefore treated to the watchmakers Zaratsu finishings. It is a five-link bracelet that has hairline finishings as well as mirror finishings. The hairline finishings occupy most of its surface area, suitably so for a rugged sports watch of its kind. 

The mirror finishings feature on the two smaller links surrounding the center links as well as on the edges on the outer links in the form of bevels, this is done to elegantly tidy up the ruggedness and visual heft of a mostly hairline finished bracelet that offers the practicality of less scratches through wear.

The bracelet lug width measures 21 millimeters and tapers toward a three-fold clasp with a twin trigger release. The clasp features a golden Grand Seiko logo to match the gilt aesthetic of the timepiece. At 21 millimeters, aftermarket straps cannot easily be found for this timepiece, however, there are some strap makers who cater to this sizing. 

Ergonomically, the light-weight construction of the bracelet, rounded links, and large channels visible from the underside in between the links allow for a comfortable and breathable on-wrist experience. Visually, the sporty and faceted bracelet design pairs perfectly with the case of the watch.

On-Wrist Experience

The SBGC205 is a compelling timepiece that ticks all the boxes for what is expected of a luxury sports watch. A 43.5mm case with 16.4mm of thickness cannot go unnoticed, however, for the incredibly vast feature-set that it offers the wearer and for the sake of legibility, this timepiece is a great performer. Additionally as a sports timepiece, the execution of a lightweight metal such as titanium with a comfortable bracelet make this watch easy to wear for its size.

Its cupped case-back with a thickness of 3mm and its sloped case and bezel allow it to fit slimmer on the wrist, therefore capable of sliding under a cuff. It can be argued that a reasonable lug-to-lug of 51.2cm allows this watch to be worn on wrists as small as even 14cmm, but would suit a larger one perfectly.

Its pushers have a “ready, set, go” feature allowing it to function like a camera shutter, where the user can depress halfway for the start of an event and press down for a defined click when an event begins, a satisfying timing experience for its wearer. This can make the SBGC205 the perfect companion for timing any sports event, ideally belonging to the racetrack paddock thanks to its luxury racing aesthetic. 

As a luxury sports watch, versatility is key to its design language, therefore, it is an easy companion to formal wear for the office or even casual wear for a night out with your friends.

Price & Availability

The SBGC205 has been recently discontinued and replaced with steel only variants, therefore, it is recommended to be sourced and purchased from an authorized dealer of Grand Seiko timepieces like Exquisite Timepieces, that can provide the timepiece in a reliable condition, with an after sales warranty, and also offer worldwide shipping. 

Exquisite Timepieces had this in stock when it was new for a retail price of $9,800, it has also been listed as “used” in the past for as low as $5,500. A brand new piece might be hard to come by, but should cost you approximately $7,000. 

Conclusion

I own a Panda Daytona, a luxury chronograph timepiece that is loved by a vast majority of collectors and considered to be the benchmark in luxury chronographs. In comparison, I believe the SBGC205 breaks out of the conventional mold of what is typically expected of a luxury chronograph watch, with its own Japanese philosophy of design and features. 

The SBGC205 lives up to the hype surrounding Grand Seiko watchmaking, executing on all points of reference. It is a fabulously finished timepiece, with a number of impressive complications, delivered in a wearable, versatile, and well designed package. It is a timepiece that redefines the accuracy of all other chronographs, and one that defines the high rated legacy of luxury Japanese watchmaking for decades on in a timeless fashion.

There’s no doubt that when you hear the name Omega Speedmaster, your first thought might be, “Ah yes, the first watch worn on the moon.” While the Moonwatch has firmly secured its place in the hearts and wishlists of watch enthusiasts, it’s important not to overlook the Speedmaster’s origins.

The name Speedmaster carries a rich history, whether it’s the version designed to endure high speeds on the track, racing against time, or the one crafted to support space exploration. 

While the journey to the moon undoubtedly elevated Omega’s status, for those who believed man’s true mission was racing on Earth, Omega represented the pinnacle of precision and reliability. Its robust chronograph, paired with the tachymeter scale on the bezel, made it an essential tool for speed enthusiasts.

There’s a reason the Olympics trusts Omega—the world’s biggest sporting event—to guarantee accurate and reliable results when capturing those split-second moments that determine the fastest on Earth. No one measures what the human eye can’t detect quite like Omega. So, buckle up for the origin story of a watch that may not have ventured into space but remains timeless: the Speedmaster Racing Chronograph.

About The Omega Speedmaster Racing

The Omega Speedmaster Racing Chronograph was the go-to timepiece for any motorist wanting to track their speed while looking stylish. If you’re new to chronograph watches, here’s a simple breakdown of how they work.

Like any regular watch, the Speedmaster Racing Chronograph keeps the time. However, it also features a chronograph—a specialized complication that acts as a stopwatch, essential for anyone looking to measure time intervals. 

Pressing the button at 2 o’clock starts and stops the chronograph hand, while the button at 4 o’clock resets the stopwatch, making it a versatile tool for timing events.

The original models of the Speedmaster Racing featured three sub-dials, a standard design in most chronographs. The sub-dial at 9 o’clock measures the seconds for the stopwatch, the one at 6 o’clock tracks the hours, and the sub-dial at 3 o’clock records the minutes that have elapsed. This setup allows for precise timing and makes the Speedmaster Racing an invaluable tool for drivers and timekeepers alike.

The Speedmaster Racing Chronograph also features a tachymeter, a scale on the bezel that measures speed based on time and distance. This tool is ideal for calculating speed over a fixed distance. 

To use it, simply start the chronograph at the beginning of the distance and stop it at the end. The central chronograph hand will point to a number on the tachymeter, indicating the speed. For example, if a vehicle takes 40 seconds to cover a mile, the hand will point to 100 on the tachymeter, indicating the vehicle was traveling at 100 mph.

According to some Omega lore, the first Speedmaster Racing didn’t feature the now-iconic black-and-white dial. While accounts differ depending on the storyteller, we can trace the origins of this legendary watch back to its initial release in 1957.

History of Omega Speedmaster Racing Watches

When the Omega Speedmaster Racing Chronograph was released, it was the first of its kind to feature a tachymeter scale on the bezel rather than on the dial, enhancing both functionality and legibility. 

While some recall seeing a racer wearing a black-and-white Speedmaster Racing in 1962 at Le Mans, others suggest that the original version featured a “racing” dial. 

This variation stood out with a prominent orange chronograph hand, along with matching orange sub-dials and hour indices. These vibrant colors improved legibility, making it easier for racers to track their stats on the go.

But as history would have it, the Speedmaster became synonymous with space exploration, and the production of the Racing variant was halted, overshadowed by the legendary “Moonwatch.” 

Records indicate that Omega produced a Speedmaster with a racing dial from 1968 to 1970, but these models were not mass-produced. 

Some notable releases were the Orange Racing ref. 145.022 that came with a sleek grey dial instead of the jet black we’ve come to know and the Speedmaster MKII ref. 145.014. With only a few hundred units believed to have been made, these watches are now considered rare and highly sought after by collectors.

In the 1990s, Omega revived their line of Speedmaster Racing watches, this time to honor legendary racers like Michael Schumacher and Michael Andretti. Omega created exclusive timepieces in their names, featuring bold designs and exciting color combinations that captured the spirit of motorsport.

Andretti’s Speedmaster Racing came with a striking blue dial, complete with the “CART” logo displayed in the 6 o’clock subdial. Both Michael and Ralf Schumacher joined Omega as ambassadors and received models within the Speedmaster Reduced family, available in vibrant yellow and red. 

Omega continued to honor Michael Schumacher over the years with several limited-edition Speedmasters, which helped shape the creative direction of the Racing line moving forward.

In 2004, Omega released a limited edition Speedmaster exclusively in Japan, with just 2,004 pieces produced. This “Japan Racing” model drew heavy inspiration from the 1970 MKII, showcasing the same gray dial with red and orange accents on the outer track. 

Alongside it was the now-famous Speedmaster “Tintin,” released in 2013, which, though initially a commercial failure, later gained a dedicated following. These releases sparked renewed enthusiasm among Speedmaster Racing fans, fueling demand for even more Racing editions.

Omega Speedmaster Racing: In-Depth Review

The Speedmaster Racing family now boasts several models, each with updated dials and enhanced movements. While many models share similar stats and features, some are designed to be even more functional for those eager to push the Speedmaster Racing to its full potential.

Case

The Omega Speedmaster Racing showcases a stainless steel case with a 44.25 mm diameter, a lug-to-lug width of 50 mm, and a thickness of 14.9 mm. Its domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects both the dial and the transparent caseback, offering a glimpse into Omega’s horological mastery. 

The chronograph buttons and crown provide a smooth, responsive action that enhances the user experience. With its mirror-like polished finish and 50 meters of water resistance, this striking case perfectly balances elegance and durability.

Bezel

A standout feature of the Speedmaster Racing, and the Speedmaster line as a whole, is the tachymeter scale’s placement on the bezel. This innovation marked a first in watchmaking, moving the tachymeter from the dial to the ceramic bezel. 

This not only enhanced the watch’s functionality but also contributed to the iconic look that has become synonymous with the Speedmaster name. Depending on the dial’s colorway, the markings on the tachymeter scale will vary in color. 

Dials

At first glance, you might think the Speedmaster Moonwatch and the Racing share a similar dial layout, but that’s not the case. The Omega Speedmaster Racing opts for two subdials positioned at the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock markers, unlike the three subdials commonly seen on chronographs. 

Notably, the 3 o’clock subdial merges the 60-minute and 12-hour counters, enhancing readability when precision timing is crucial, such as during high-speed activities. 

The Speedmaster Racing embraces a vibrant and sporty aesthetic, featuring hands and sub-dials in colors like red, yellow, and orange, which enhance visibility and evoke a sense of excitement. This colorful approach sets it apart from the traditional black-and-white designs often found in the Speedmaster lineup. 

Additionally, the markers around the dial draw inspiration from the checkered flag, further reinforcing the racing theme. These elements combine to create a dynamic look that reflects the spirit of motorsport while maintaining Omega’s signature craftsmanship and precision.

Movements

The Omega Speedmaster Racing is predominantly driven by the in-house Caliber 9900, with a few models as exceptions. Omega designed this movement to power a tool watch with utmost durability, precision, and reliability. Introduced in 2015, the Caliber 9900 is an automatic movement that features a chronograph complication and date display.

It boasts a 60-hour power reserve and an impressive accuracy of 0 to +5 seconds per day. The movement incorporates a Co-Axial Escapement for enhanced precision and stability, as well as a Column-Wheel Chronograph Mechanism for smoother chronograph functionality. Tested by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), the chronograph is a certified Master Chronometer, underscoring Omega’s commitment to excellence.

Straps

The 21 mm lug width of the Speedmaster Racing offers a versatile range of options for swapping out the stainless steel bracelet. This size accommodates Omega’s beautifully crafted leather straps, which offer a refined look or a NATO strap for a more Bond-inspired feel. 

The stainless steel bracelet features a precisely engineered clasp with a comfort setting, allowing for easy adjustments to ensure a perfect fit. On the other hand, the leather strap, with its alligator leather front and calfskin underside, provides both elegance and comfort. It is secured with a sophisticated folding clasp, completing the watch’s versatile and luxurious appeal.

Most Popular Omega Speedmaster Racing Models

From once being overshadowed within the Speedmaster family to now standing as a prized timepiece, the Omega Speedmaster Racing catalog has come full circle and now flourishes with variety. 

Offering a wide array of models and color combinations, this collection presents something for every watch enthusiast. Here are five of the most popular Omega Speedmaster Racing models to explore.

Omega Speedmaster Racing Chronograph 44.25mm (ref. 329.30.44.51.01.001)

For those just entering the world of the Speedmaster or looking to expand their Omega collection, the iconic 2017 black-and-white dial Speedmaster Racing is a top choice. With an uncluttered design, this model offers excellent legibility. 

The 3 o’clock subdial handles both minute and hour tracking, leaving ample room for the date window and clear reminders of the Co-Axial escapement and Master Chronometer certification. This watch embodies a cool, classic style and serves as an ideal entry point into the Racing family.

Omega Speedmaster Racing Co-Axial Chronometer Chronograph White Dial 44.25mm (ref. 329.33.44.51.04.001)

If you’re looking to stand out from the crowd and already own plenty of black dials, the 2017 white dial Speedmaster Racing might be the one for you. With a stunning white matte finish, bright orange accents on the Speedmaster logo and the chronograph hand’s tip, and a refined leather strap, this watch is a unique twist on the classic. 

While the Moonwatch only introduced a white dial recently, the Racing variant has been confidently showcasing its crisp, distinctive look for years—just waiting to make its way to your wrist.

Omega Speedmaster Super Racing (ref. 329.30.44.51.01.003)

For the seasoned collector seeking a piece of Omega history, the 2023 Omega Speedmaster Super Racing is a true gem. Paying homage to the 2013 Seamaster Aqua Terra >15’000 GAUSS, this model boasts a striking black honeycomb-textured dial with bold yellow accents on both the dial and bezel, giving it a distinct and dynamic presence. 

The yellow lume and the black-and-yellow hand on the 9 o’clock subdial add extra flair, while the watch comes with a versatile stainless steel bracelet and a NATO strap for a sportier look. Powered by the Caliber 9920, it features Omega’s innovative Spirate System, delivering remarkable precision with an accuracy of 0 to +2 seconds per day. With intricate details and an impeccable build, this timepiece is as much a joy to behold as it is to own.

Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer (ref. 329.32.44.51.01.001)

In 2017, Omega introduced a Speedmaster Racing model that embraces its racing heritage with an invigorating update. This black dial variant steps away from the traditional black-and-white Speedmaster look, adding vibrant orange accents to the hands, hour markers, and chronograph tip. 

These bold pops of color bring the racing spirit to the forefront, making it a fitting tribute to Omega’s motorsport roots. Complementing the dial, a matching black-and-orange racing strap ties the design together, capturing the essence of speed and precision in a fresh, visually compelling package. This model stands as a dynamic and engaging addition to the Speedmaster Racing Chronograph lineup.

Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer Sedna Gold (ref. 329.53.44.51.03.001)

No list of standout Speedmaster Racing models would be complete without highlighting the extravagant Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronograph in Sedna Gold. This luxurious offering from the 2017 collection is truly a stunning timepiece. 

The 18k Sedna Gold case pairs beautifully with the ceramic blue tachymeter bezel, creating a striking contrast. The sun-brushed blue dial, adorned with gold accents, further enhances its elegance, while the blue alligator leather strap adds a touch of sophistication. This watch represents the pinnacle of racing luxury and is an impressive addition to any collection, combining refined craftsmanship with a bold racing spirit.

Should You Buy An Omega Speedmaster Racing?

I firmly believe there are no rules in watch collecting. The Omega Speedmaster Racing is crafted for those eager to push the limits of velocity—a perfect tool for measuring what can’t be calculated without the right equipment. But what if you’re not into racing? Does that exclude you from enjoying this watch’s purpose? Absolutely not. 

Owning a Speedmaster Racing means possessing a piece of history. By choosing this watch, you breathe new life into a model that was once overlooked due to the moonshot of fate—quite literally. With various options to choose from, there’s no reason not to step away from the classic and acquire one of the most beautiful toolwatches in history.

Omega Speedmaster Racing Pricing & Availability

The Omega Speedmaster Racing Chronograph retails for $9,200 for the leather strap variant and $9,600 for the model with the steel bracelet. In the pre-owned market, these watches typically sell for between $5,500 and $6,500.

The Omega Speedmaster Super Racing is priced at $11,600, but finding this model in the pre-owned market can be quite challenging. The Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer in Sedna Gold retails for $31,700 and is available in the pre-owned market for around $19,000.

All of these watches can be purchased at Exquisite Timepieces today.

Conclusion

Omega has revived this original brainchild, lifting it from obscurity and restoring it to a prominence that rivals the models that once overshadowed it. The Speedmaster Racing is now celebrated alongside its iconic sibling, proving that it’s every bit as relevant in the watch world as the Moonwatch.