Category: News

In the collecting world today, there’s an ocean of interest around dive watches of all shapes and forms, from the extremes of the Omega Ploprof to the more restrained iconic Rolex Submariner. In this tide of options and similarity, it’s nearly impossible for a newcomer to stand apart from the crowd—yet I’ve found that the Longines HydroConquest GMT does just that, in a subtle but endearing manner that sets it charmingly apart from both the flights of travel watches and waves of dive watches that surround it. Its tool-like but elegant nature makes it a great everyday wear, coupled with intense functionality.

History

As it turns out, Longines as a brand has perhaps the strongest link to GMT watches as a whole, which makes the HydroConquest GMT a particularly compelling piece thanks to the historical legacy that it plays a part in. The first watch ever to feature two time zones was a Longines pocket watch made in 1911, and they would continue this travel-focused trend with the first GMT wristwatches in 1925.

Longines today has continued their emphasis on GMT and travel watches with several different collections featuring this complication, including the Spirit Zulu Time GMT, the Master Collection GMT, and finally, the HydroConquest GMT.

Important to note as well is that the HydroConquest GMT is a modification of the original HydroConquest line, which is the standard Longines dive watch. Overall, I see it as an upgrade to go from the original dive watch functionality to maintaining all those aquatic features with the addition of the GMT function. As a whole, this is a spectacular watch on its own that also stands within a broad historical context of advanced development in GMT functions by Longines.

Case

The HydroConquest GMT is nothing if not a purpose-built tool, and its simple steel case reflects that in every way. One of the first design details to catch my eye upon first seeing it was the large sloping crown guards. Crown guards can easily stand out harshly against the rest of the design if they’re added as an afterthought to protect the vulnerable crown. In this case (pun intended), it’s clear that Longines very intentionally included them as a part of the design, as they flow very seamlessly into the case itself and clearly reference the shape of the lugs. They’re also quite restrained and don’t block the usage of the crown itself for winding.

As a whole, the case is uniformly brushed, a very muted effect that adds to the tool-like nature of the piece. This is set in contrast with the few places where a high polish has been applied—namely, the crown and the bezel.

While I’m always a sucker for a healthy dose of visual contrast in different polishing finishes, the choice to set the crown and bezel apart with high polishing does come with consequences. Both of these areas are the places you’ll touch most when interacting with the watch, and the high polish makes them quite a bit slipperier than if they were simply brushed. As such, it can at times be difficult to use these features. That said, the crown does have an extremely smooth winding action, so it won’t require much effort beyond keeping your fingers firmly on it as you wind.

The sapphire crystal is flat and rather simple, but it is also heavily tool-built and utilitarian thanks to the toughness provided by the sapphire. Furthermore, it is coated with several layers both outside and inside with anti-reflective coating, which provides for extreme legibility in almost any situation, even in direct sunlight.

The case itself comes in two sizes depending on the model—some models offer both, and others are available only in one of the two sizes. The options are 41mm and 43mm in diameter, neither one of which is overly large for a tool watch of this nature.

All options are 12.9mm thick—which frankly is not bad at all for a complicated watch such as this! Important to note as well is that the smaller models have a 21mm lug-to-lug measurement for adding replacement straps, while the larger ones are at 22mm. It will certainly be easier to find straps at the more even 22mm measurement, but those with smaller wrists may find the choice of a lesser diameter much more compelling.

The bezel closely matches the dial for each model and as such can be colored or monochromatic. It’s highly polished, which produces a lovely shine against the brushed finish on the case. As a dive bezel rather than a typical GMT bezel—this is, after all, the HydroConquest collection—it is equipped with a 60-minute scale where every five minutes is marked as well as the individual minutes up to 15.

The bezel is unidirectionally rotating to prevent it from accidentally skipping backwards. It’s a great touch that adds functionality whether you intend to use it for diving or just to time how long your casserole should be in the oven.

In all, it’s certainly not a case that is immediately striking as excessively beautiful or dazzling. It’s a tool, just like the rest of the watch, and from the toughness of the steel to the extra crown guards to the coated sapphire crystal, it does its job remarkably well—and even with a touch of elegance.

Dial

With the dial, we get into the real variation in the HydroConquest GMT family. Each dial features a variety of indices to help easily distinguish between the hours—a triangle at 12:00, circles at 6:00 and 9:00, and rectangular markers to fill in all the rest. Note that the 3:00 date window means that there is no marker at this position. The hands are a curious shape, and the hour hand has a certain diamond structure which fits well with the overall theme of shape indices. The GMT hand, likewise, is a simple and legible arrow.

The dial color matches with the bezel on any variant of the HydroConquest GMT, from the colored ones to those which are more plain. A gentle sunburst finish has been applied, allowing for better legibility in the way it captures light as well as another touch of elegance in elevating this watch above a fully utilitarian presentation. The minute track and date window are rendered in the same color as the lume on the indices and hands, which is present in copious amounts for extremely high legibility in low-light situations. In the green and brown dial models, this lume is in a rich cream color meant to evoke the patina of older tritium-lumed dive watches. All models glow a brilliant blue at night, which for me is evocative of the ocean depths as well as being an interesting choice considering that most lume options today are typically green.

The 24-hour GMT track is present only around the dial rehaut and does include a color differentiation between the 12-hour intervals of day and night. Naturally, this is meant to be paired with the GMT hand, which is so long it nearly touches the rehaut for maximum legibility. Unfortunately, the rehaut is rather slim, and I’ve found it can be quite difficult to reference in many situations. That said, I think that with enough use it will become intuitive for any user to determine the GMT hour even without a glance at the rehaut, since it is simply a 24-hour scale and as such there are two hour markings per hour on the dial. Even if this doesn’t become intuitive, it is still a simple matter to reference the rehaut—only it will take an extra moment of attention.

Ultimately, the HydroConquest GMT dial is a key element to tying the watch all together, presenting uniformity with the bezel and adding a delightful boost of charm and refinement to an otherwise utilitarian watch.

Movement

The HydroConquest GMT features the Caliber L884.5, a powerful and accurate GMT movement. What’s important to note, first of all, is that this movement is not in-house. It’s based on the ETA A31.411, and this version of it was not developed by Longines but by ETA. That said, it is exclusive for Longines’ use, so it is at least relatively special to Longines. It’s also clear that in this case the line between in-house and not in-house is rather blurred, as both Longines and ETA are part of the Swatch Group. It’s more like in-neighborhood if not in-house.

The L844.5 is identical to the caliber L844.4 GMT movement used in the Longines Spirit Zulu Time. However, the L844.4 is sent out by Longines to be certified by COSC for accuracy, which means that as these movements are identical, the L844.5 can also be regulated to COSC standards, despite not receiving an official certification. This means that collectors can get a watch with all the prestigious accuracy of a COSC-certified mechanical wonder with none of the price hike that often comes with sending movements out for this certification. I personally find that this is a more than satisfactory trade-off, as COSC certification is truly just a label meant to express the accuracy that wearers will be able to notice anyways.

The Caliber L844 is truly a spectacular movement. It has everything you could ask for from a hardcore traveler’s watch or an advanced dive watch: 300 meters of water resistance, 72 hours of power reserve, and hacking seconds for accurate time setting. It beats at the rather curious rate of 25,200 bph, which is 3.5 beats per second.

The final key detail to note is the L844 has a “true” or “traveler’s” GMT function. This means that the hour hand can be set independently of the others by pulling the crown out to one stop. This means that when traveling the GMT hand can be set to home time and the hour hand can easily be reset to whatever time zone you happen to be in, which allows for very easy and accessible use. Note however that since the one-stop position is taken by the independent hour hand, there is no way to independently change the date apart from rotating the hands. This isn’t a major issue, but it can get a little annoying if you find yourself having to make a big change. In that case, shame on you anyways for not wearing your lovely watch for so long!

Straps

Depending on the specific model you purchase, the HydroConquest GMT collection has a variety of options: rubber, NATO fabric, or a metal bracelet. Of these options, I find the bracelet the most attractive—it adds to the sporty look of the watch in a classy way that a different material can’t quite accomplish. However, it all really depends on what sort of look you’re searching for, and the NATO and rubber are also sporty options that are very versatile and can also add to the overall color palette of the watch, making it a little brighter and more showy.

The bracelet in particular is interesting and while it’s always nice to have an integrated bracelet with a sports watch, I find Longines’ bracelet not quite up to my tastes. It’s strictly utilitarian, just like the rest of the watch, and some will appreciate this visual continuity. To accomplish this utilitarian spirit, Longines finished the entire bracelet in a simple brushing, making it continuous with the case. In my eyes, this makes it a little visually uninteresting, as it’s entirely uniform and there’s no contrasting areas of polish. Again, it’s a choice focused on continuity and utilitarianism above all—people using this watch as it was designed will hardly be interested in having it extra polished when that could be so easily scratched!—and I respect the choice in this respect, even though I do find myself longing for just a touch more shine.

The bracelet, apart from its finishing, has a likewise simple construction. It features a push button clasp which cleanly and easily snaps and releases. Overall, as a tool, it leaves nothing to be desired.

On-Wrist Experience

The Longines HydroConquest GMT is a fantastic companion on any adventure, whether it’s to the office, the depths of the sea, or across the world. That strictly utilitarian nature that Longines strives so hard to push further absolutely shines in many circumstances, especially for those who find themselves living especially adventurous lifestyles.

As I mentioned before, I’m a big fan of the green and brown dial options. I find the colors involved just the right amount of subdued and the way the colors work with the cream lume is a positively delightful combo. I’m also particularly partial to the black dial with orange highlights in a way that I would never have expected as it’s such a monochromatic watch as a whole—yet those orange highlights provide just the right pop of color to make it playful in a simple but effortlessly cool manner.

Having multiple strap options for a watch like this is an absolute must. Each different strap provides a totally different look for the HydroConquest GMT in a way that any true fan of the watch would positively drool over. The bracelet is sporty but classy, while the NATO is inherently adventurous and the rubber takes the sportiness to another level. If you’re feeling adventurous, you could even try it on a leather strap for slightly dressier occasions. Just don’t try to take it to a black tie event!

Price & Availability

The HydroConquest GMT is not a limited edition, so it’ll remain available for a long time. It can be purchased via Longines’ website or in-store, or via Exquisite Timepieces.

Each watch is at a different price point depending on the strap it comes with. NATO strap options are the least expensive at $2,675, while rubber is a slight premium at $2,775 and bracelet at $2,975. Again, I believe the added price of the steel bracelet is a worthwhile price, but it’s also understandable if you prefer the look of the NATO or rubber, which both are a nice touch. For versatility, consider ordering a model on the bracelet and then adding another strap as an option to your purchase.

Conclusion

It’s clearly not for nothing that the HydroConquest GMT enjoys a serious following among dedicated collectors as well as among the general public. Its variety of color options coupled with extreme functionality and relatively affordable price are all wildly endearing characteristics, and any discerning collector would be remiss to pass this one up.

When it comes to watches, picking the right case size is like choosing the perfect pair of jeans. It has to fit just right; not too tight and not too loose. It needs to feel like a watch that has been designed for you. 

Sure, the colors, metals and technology are important but for me, size is one of the most important aspects of a watch because it changes how it feels on your wrist, how it wears day to day, and how it looks to everyone else. 

Most of us have tried on several round watches in our lives, so those feel a little easier to size up. But the Cartier Santos? That is a little bit more complex. Its square case with curved edges throws everything you think you know about sizing right out the window. It’s bold, stylish, and designed to turn heads, which makes nailing the size even more important. 

Right now, the Parisian watchmaker offers the Santos in two main sizes: Medium and Large. And if you’re debating between the two, know that you’re not alone. It’s a common dilemma for anyone eyeing this timeless watch. 

So, without further ado, let’s get to know the Cartier Santos collection a little better and help you figure out which model will suit your wrist, taste and budget best.

The Cartier Santos Collection

The Cartier Santos is definitely up there with one of the most iconic watches in history. I try not to use that word too often, but it feels warranted in this case. It’s a watch that dates back to 1904 when Louis Cartier, the founder of Cartier watches, joined forces with his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, a Brazilian aviation pioneer, to create a pilot’s watch. Santos-Dumont wanted a timepiece that he could check mid-flight without having to fumble with a pocket watch. 

Yes, you read that right. The Cartier Santos was indeed one of the first wristwatches ever created. In fact, it’s known for being the first men’s wristwatch invented (the first women’s wristwatch goes to the Breguet No. 2639 which was designed for Queen Caroline Murat of Naples in 1810 by Abraham-Louis Breguet.) 

The Cartier Santos made its debut in the early years of the 1900’s, boasting a sleek, bold and distinctive square-shaped case that made it stand out even more from the classically round pocket watches of the era. It was a watch made for innovators, and it quickly gained a reputation for being as daring as the man it was made for.

Fast forward to the 1970s, and the Santos saw a major glow-up. Cartier introduced the Santos de Cartier in steel and gold, making it one of the first luxury watches to embrace steel in a big way. This was a time when luxury was all about gold and precious metals, but Cartier went ahead and mixed things up. And of course, it worked. The Santos became an icon of casual elegance, a watch that could do it all from black-tie galas to lazy Sundays. 

Over the years, the Santos has seen countless updates and variations. There’s been new materials, different sizes, and all sorts of dial options. But no matter how much it’s evolved, the Santos has always stayed true to its roots: a square case, exposed screws on the bezel, and that unmistakable blend of form and function. 

Then came 2016 when the watch was discontinued, disappearing altogether from the French watchmaker’s portfolio. But thankfully, that didn’t last long, because Cartier brought the Santos back in a big way at SIHH in 2018. The revamped Santos retained all the design elements we know and love but added modern updates that made it even more wearable. For one, Cartier introduced the SmartLink system, which lets you adjust the bracelet without any tools. Plus, they threw in an interchangeable strap system, so you can switch between leather and metal effortlessly. 

Design-wise, the modern Cartier Santos is a dream. The square case has just the right amount of curve to hug your wrist comfortably. The bezel now flows seamlessly into the bracelet, giving the watch a more streamlined look. And those exposed screws are still there, loud and proud, as a nod to the watch’s industrial-chic vibe. 

When it comes to choosing a specific model, the Cartier Santos collection has plenty of choice. Want a classic white dial with Roman numerals? Got it. Prefer a skeletonized dial that shows off the movement? That’s on the menu too. Case materials? Take your pick from stainless steel, gold, two-tone, or even ADLC-coated black for a more modern edge. There’s a Santos for every taste and occasion. 

But while picking a dial design or case material feels relatively straightforward, deciding between the Medium and Large sizes can be a touch more difficult. After all, the Medium and Large are both gorgeous and they share much of the same DNA. So how do you choose?

Cartier Santos Large vs Medium – The Right Size for You 

I hate to break it to you but choosing between the Cartier Santos Medium and Large isn’t going to be easy, even with our advice. First of all, I highly recommend you head into your local authorised Cartier dealer and try these watches on for size – literally. It’s the best way to know which model will suit you best. But if that’s not possible, here are some tips on how to help you pick the right Cartier Santos for your wrist. 

First things first, neither of these watches should be considered small. While some brands use terms like “medium” or “mid-size” as code for “ladies’ watch,” Cartier isn’t playing that game here. The Santos Medium measures 35.1mm by 41.9mm, and trust me, even described as “medium”, it still makes a statement. Thanks to the square case design, it actually wears larger than a round watch of comparable size, so don’t let the “medium” label fool you. 

The Large, on the other hand, takes things up a notch. At 39.8mm by 47.5mm, it’s a serious wrist presence. It’s also a touch thicker, with a height of just over 9mm. This is the Santos that demands attention the moment it peeks out from under your cuff. 

It’s also worth considering the very slight difference in technology here. While both the Cartier Santos Medium and Large models are powered by the same movement, Cartier’s in-house calibre 1847 MC, the smaller variant comes without the classic date window at 6 o’clock. This might not make much difference to everybody, but I know plenty of watch collectors out there – myself included – that prefer a dateless display for a cleaner dial layout. 

But at the end of the day, both sizes are statement pieces. The Santos has never been a watch designed to fade into the background, it’s meant to be noticed. The polished bezel with exposed screws, bold Roman numerals, and square case all scream confidence and style. That said, the Medium offers a slightly more refined vibe. It’s bold, yes, but not overwhelming. It’s the kind of watch that fits a little more seamlessly into any setting, whether you’re at a business meeting or a casual dinner. The Large, however, is unapologetically bold. 

You will need to take into account your own wrist size, mainly for comfort. If your wrists are on the smaller side, the Medium will likely sit better. Its smaller dimensions make it less likely to feel bulky or overpowering, and it’s less prone to knocking into things during your daily routine. The Large, while still comfortable, is a heftier piece. On smaller wrists, it might feel a bit top-heavy, and there’s a higher chance of accidental bumps or scratches. But if your wrists are on the larger side, the Large Santos will sit beautifully, offering that perfect balance of presence and proportion.

Finally, there are a couple of design differences worth noting. While both share the core DNA like the square case, prominent screw-decorated bezel and in-house movement, certain dial designs or materials options are only exclusive to one size. For example, the Cartier Santos Large often gets more adventurous variations like a skeletonised dial which showcases the inner workings of the movement and cases in ADLC coating. 

Meanwhile, the Cartier Santos Medium sticks to the traditional dial layout with Roman numerals and cases in classic stainless steel and gold. This makes it an excellent choice for those who prefer the timeless elegance of the original Santos, and less so for those that want something a touch more modern. 

Who Should Go for the Medium?

The Cartier Santos Medium is perfect for someone who:

• Has smaller wrists (around 6-7 inches in circumference)
• Prefers a watch that’s bold but not overpowering
• Values a clean, minimalist dial without a date display
• Wants a piece that transitions effortlessly from day to night

The Santos Medium is for those who appreciate subtlety and elegance but still want a watch that makes a statement. It’s refined without being boring, and it’s comfortable enough to wear every day. 

Who Should Go for the Large?

The Cartier Santos Large is the watch for you if: 

• You have larger wrists (7 inches and up)
• You want a watch that turns heads and commands attention
• A date complication is a must-have feature
• You’re all about making bold style choices

The Santos Large is a statement piece in every sense of the word. It’s confident, daring, and unapologetically bolds so it’s perfect if you’re someone who isn’t afraid to stand out.

Conclusion 

So, there you have it, the Cartier Santos Medium vs. Large showdown. Ultimately, the choice comes down to you: your taste, your wrist size, and yes, even your budget. Both sizes are equally iconic, offering that perfect blend of boldness and sophistication that defines the Santos. 

If you prefer a slightly more understated look or have smaller wrists, the Medium is a fantastic option. It’s refined, comfortable, and still manages to make a statement without being overwhelming. On the flip side, the Large is for those who want to go all-in on presence and impact, particularly if your wrist can handle its bolder proportions. 

And we can’t leave without briefly mentioning the price difference. The Medium is a few hundred dollars less expensive than the Large. It’s likely not a dealbreaker for most of you, but it’s worth considering. I have no doubt that whichever you choose, you’ll just be glad you chose to invest in a watch as iconic as this. Honestly, the Cartier Santos is a brilliant timepiece in so many ways and is a talking point no matter the size.

The Cartier Panthere collection first hit the market in 1983, almost instantly becoming a classic variation that both watch enthusiasts and casual wearers can enjoy. It was then revived in 2017 in an attempt to modernize the piece and re-vamp it under a brand new light. 

The two variations offer a plethora of sizes, materials, and styles that each hold their own secrets and unique attributes, but how can you be sure that what you are buying truly fits your style? In this article, we will be exploring specifically how Cartier Panthere’s small and mini varieties differ and what you can expect from each size in order to know what fits you best.

The Cartier Panthere Collection

The first generation of Pantheres premiered in 1983. Cartier decided they wanted a watch that embodied what they were known best for, that being their prestigious jewelry that echoed a sense of luxury and refinement. Since then, they have steadily increased over the years, with each piece becoming more luxurious than the last. 

The watch was offered in a variety of sizes and materials, such as white and yellow gold, two-tone steel, and two-tone gold. The truly premium pieces offered a combination of materials and plenty of diamond-embedded models, fully displaying their broad range to satisfy their customer base. 

First-generation models were originally offered in five different sizes: mini, small, medium, large, and jumbo, but the sizing has been modified over time, with most first-generation sizes being dubbed as vintage pieces or discontinued altogether. An easy way to differentiate the sizes is to look at the date window and see where it resides. 

The Cartier Panthere was originally marketed to both men and women, with the mini and small editions being classified as lady watches, while the medium was unisex, and the large and jumbo were for men.  

The Panthere captured the essence of the ’80s and ’90s, embodying the fashion of that era while doing its best to boost innovation, standing out as a testimony that truly defined the era in which it was released. 

Many would consider the Cartier Panthere as the first “must-have” luxury watch of its time. The two-tone Panthere were some of the most popular of the collection, featuring stainless steel cases topped with an 18k gold bezel, and the bracelets were a mix of gold and steel links, giving it the flashy aesthetic that so many coveted in those days. 

Since the Panthere collection was released during the quartz revolution, it runs on quartz movement. This allows the Panthere case to be as slim as possible, assuring a comfortable fit regardless of size.

Over the years, Cartier has delivered some truly stunning dial designs for the original Panthere collection. Incorporating stones like malachite, lapis, and obsidian, along with anniversary dials decorated with the double C Cartier logo, the designers know what stands out to their audience and have perfected their designs to be recognizable even without the iconic logo. 

In 2004, Cartier discontinued its entire Panthere collection, leaving a gaping hole in the department’s jewelry collection. In an attempt to fill that hole, the Cartier Santos Demoiselle served as a substitute since its bracelet subtly mimicked that of a Panthere. 

Its time in the spotlight was brief, however. Most deemed the Demoiselle too sporty to fully take the place of the Panthere as it couldn’t quite reach the elevated level of glamour that the Panthere was so highly recognized for. Thankfully, over a dozen years after the discontinuation of the Panthere, it was brought back in 2017 for an entirely new generation to enjoy. 

Now, the Panthere line is better than ever, increasingly expanding with new sizes and dial designs to accommodate the revamped aesthetic of the new generation.  

In 2017, to kick off the collection, Cartier offered the modern Panthere in various metals across two sizes: small and medium. The current Panthere lineup, however, has been expanded to include mini models. 

Just like the previous series, this new lineup of Pantheres come in stainless steel, yellow gold, two-tone steel, two-tone gold, and white gold. Along with the new generation, Cartier has also released new colors. Pantheres can now come in two-tone rose gold, rounding out the collection while satisfying new desires that a new generation may crave. 

Older Vs Newer Panthere

Though difficult to notice at first, there are some minor differences between the older and newer generations of Cartier Panthere watches. For one, the newer collection no longer offers time and date models, limiting themselves exclusively to time only. The bracelets have also been updated to offer heavier links and an improved clasp. 

They also differ in material sizes and choices. There was no trace of rose gold in the previous collection, as that material is exclusive to the newer generation. The sizes have shifted as well, with the largest size of the new generation measuring 27mm, as opposed to the largest size of the older models, which was 29mm. 

Comparing a vintage mini with a modern mini will cause you to notice the lack of a traditional winding crown on the vintage. The older versions featured a push-piece on the case back that was used to set the time on the watch. New Panthere’s include traditional crowns that many new-gen watch lovers are far more accustomed to. 

A powerful testimony to the appeal of the Cartier brand is just how long the Panthere has been in style. Whether it be the iconic vintage look of the 80s and 90s or the remastered masterpieces that they still produce to this day, their fanbase has stayed true, expecting the very best throughout the years. Cartier has delivered time and time again, cementing the Panthere as an undeniable classic that will transcend time in the years to come. Its versatility makes it one of the most coveted pieces on the market. It can be worn anytime, anywhere, and will always catch the eye of any who sees it. The Panthere collection is worth investigating if you’re looking for a superb lady’s watch that is chic and easy to wear. Next, we will dive deeper into the different sizes and determine what fits best for whom.

Cartier Panthere Small vs Mini – The Right Size for You

When you are deciding between the mini or the small variant of the Cartier Panthere, consider the aesthetic impact each size brings to the table. The mini has a more delicate feel to it, exuding a particular kind of subtle charm, while the small tends to make a bolder statement. The small size also offers a broader range of color choices for the bracelet, as well as improved functionality. 

Taking a look inside the sizes, the small features a more advanced mechanism of movement, making it more precise while giving a more accurate reading. Because it is bigger, the small has more room to fit all of the complicated winding and intricate machinery necessary for a precise reading, meaning that if you prefer a watch that runs faster and is more accurate, the small is the way to go. 

It’s also important to look at the differences in pricing to determine which Panthere watch holds the most value and best suits your preferences. It’s difficult to narrow down an exact price on the two since retail and market prices drastically change every day, but it is safe to say that the mini is usually $1,000 cheaper than the small when looking at the retail value. When you have a deeper understanding of the market demand, it can critically assist your decision-making process, ensuring that the watch you select is appealing to you and holds its value over time. 

And, of course, the most obvious tip that I can give you is knowing your wrist size. Obviously, the small and mini watches are set apart by their sizing, so to be sure that you are purchasing a watch that will fit, take wrist measurements before making a decision. You’ll also notice the distinctive differences in wearability and comfort when examining the two sizes. Both sizes vary in strap options, affecting how they sit on your wrist, and the weight of variances contribute to overall comfort during extended wear. 

The good news is that both sizes can be customized with different materials, allowing the wearer to create their own aesthetic. When choosing what fits your piece best, consider the sizing. Some materials stand out in different sizes, so keep in mind that whatever materials you wish to display need to compliment the frame so that you are getting the most from your watch. 

It is important to understand how the shape and size can impact the overall look. Cartier gives you the choice to customize your Panthere. To ensure that what you choose best suits your taste, I would argue that it is necessary to study and learn all of the ins and outs of materials, shapes, dials, and sizing so that you can narrowly determine exactly what speaks to you. Pieces like these are investments. What you choose to purchase can hold a lasting impact on the long-term value. You are robbing yourself of a timeless classic if you fail to do adequate research and learn what is valuable and what is not. 

Conclusion

When looking at the exciting history of the Panthere, it is clear to me why this piece has become a household name for so many enthusiasts. I, for one, am grateful that Cartier felt the need to return this collection to its former glory, as there are truly some remarkable pieces in the lineup. When it comes to pieces like these, sizing matters. You obviously want something that is comfortable, but you also want something that fits your style. The best advice that I can give is that if you prefer a more chic, low-key, subtle tone, then go with the mini (providing that it fits your wrist, of course,) but if you want a bolder, more glamorous piece, go with the small. Although both will prove objectively more subtle when compared to bigger sizes. The beauty of the Panthere, however, is that there is no objective “this size is better than this one.” Though sizing is necessary to determine how well it fits, the Panthere relies heavily on personal customization as well, giving the wearer free rein to create their aesthetic, guaranteeing that no matter what size you pick, you will be truly amazed at the quality of this watch. 

It is impossible to state definitively what the best watch brand is. As with most other things, you can come up with a group of worthy candidates, but it’s all subjective, and everyone has their own valid opinions. However, I think we would all agree that there is one brand that is more well-known than any other. That would be Rolex.

Ask 10 random people on the street to name a luxury watch brand, and it is highly likely that all of them will say Rolex. Hans Wilsdorf was a brilliant marketer and to this day, the brand has nearly 100% recognition.

A gold Rolex is the classic retirement gift, graduation present, or trophy for a life 

accomplishment. For millions of people, a Rolex is their grail watch. There is, however, a downside to being this well-known. 

The world is full of nefarious types who counterfeit everything from artwork to musical instruments and even money. Fake timepieces abound and Rolex is counterfeited more than any other brand. Take a walk down Canal Street in Lower Manhattan, and you will see dozens of fake Rolexes for sale.

If you dream of landing one of these prestigious timepieces on your wrist, especially if the price tag is a bit out of your range, you may be tempted to search for bargains. It is all too easy to be tricked, as counterfeiters have become very sophisticated and made some watches look very close to the real thing. Here’s what you need to know before delving into the marketplace.

The Telltale Signs of a Fake Rolex

Before we begin, you should be warned about buying online. Unless the company is a reputable watch shop, be wary of buying a Rolex. Determining whether a watch is real or fake from pictures on a website is nearly impossible unless you are an expert. Always look at any Rolex you are considering buying in person.

The first thing to do is to heft the watch. Rolex uses high-quality 904L stainless steel, 18K gold, and other precious metals in their timepieces. Counterfeits use cheaper materials that weigh less. The watch should feel solid. If it feels light and cheap, do not buy it.

Next, look at the fit and finish. Examine every component, dial, hands, indices, bezel, and bracelet. If parts look poorly cut or polished or pieces don’t fit nicely together, it’s a fake. Rolex takes great pride in its timepieces, and it does not let poorly made watches leave the factory. 

Another thing to note is that if you are looking at a Rolex that has both day and date complications, it should be made of gold or platinum. Rolex does not make day-dates in stainless steel. That is a sure sign of a fake.

Check the case back. Rolex does have a few models with exhibition case-backs, but they are rare. If the back of the case is not solid, pass on the watch. In their quest for elegance, most Rolex case-backs are plain. There are a few that are engraved, but be suspicious if the watch you are looking at does not have a plain case-back.

The magnifier that sits above the date complication on the Submariner and other models is called a cyclops. Rolex invented it, and it magnifies the numeral exactly 2.5 times. It is coated on the inside with a clear anti-reflective substance. 

If you see a tint of color in the cyclops or the date is hard to read and reflects glare, the watch is a fake. The date numeral should also be in an easy-to-read font and be perfectly centered in the window.

Now, we are going to check the rehaut. This is the ring around the inner surface that connects the dial to the bezel. It should have the name “Rolex” engraved several times around the circumference. Further, on the side from 12 o’clock to six, the “X” should line up with the hour markers. On the six to 12 side, the “R” will line up with the hour markers.

The engraving should be easy to read and have a high-quality look to it. At the six o’clock side of the rehaut, the serial number should be engraved and easy to read. If a serial number is present, you can look it up online to get more information about the watch. On the outside of the case between the lugs above 12 o’clock, the model number should be engraved. To see it, you will have to remove the bracelet or strap.

Rolex has become very clever in adding features to indicate that a watch is genuine. In 2002, they began engraving a small crown logo on the crystal at six o’clock. It’s hard to see with the naked eye unless the lighting and angle are perfect. Using a loupe or magnifying glass is the best way to check.

If the crown is not there, the watch is a fake. Also, the crown will be made up of a series of laser-engraved dots of varying depth. This is extremely difficult for a counterfeiter to get right and is one of the best ways to verify whether a Rolex is real or not. 

Remove the case back and look at the movement. On a genuine Rolex, the parts will be perfectly machined and finished and fit together with no gaps. Fakes don’t have the quality machining or polished finish of the real thing. Check the movement by winding the watch. On a real Rolex, it will feel smooth and be easy to turn the crown. If the movement feels gritty and doesn’t wind with ease, it’s a fake. 

Note that although Rolex has made models with quartz movements, they are rare. The vast majority of Rolexes have automatic movements, so if it’s a quartz, that should raise red flags.

Speaking of the crown, the Rolex logo, which is a crown, should be perfectly embossed on the crown. On recent models, there will be two or three dots or bars beneath the logo. Counterfeiters consistently miss this detail. The grooves on the sides of the crown should be perfectly cut and uniform in size and depth.

In addition to the quality of the bracelet or strap, find out which Rolex pairs with the model you are looking at. If the strap or bracelet is wrong, the watch could be fake. It might also be real but placed on a fake bracelet. The wrong combo should make you question the authenticity.

Finally, the Rolex logo on the bracelet clasp should be crisp, clear, and perfectly embossed. Fakes usually get this wrong and often it’s a poorly cut logo soldered on.

Are Fake Rolex Watches Worth It?

Now that you know how to spot a fake Rolex, you might be tempted to buy one anyway because they are priced so much lower than the real thing. There are many companies that make what they call., “Super Clones”. Own an exact copy of a Submariner for $1,500. 

Don’t fall for this. First, these watches are made from inferior materials and use generic movements that are nowhere near as accurate, precise, or durable as a real Rolex. That’s why they’re so cheap.

The biggest problem with buying a fake Rolex is that counterfeiting is illegal in most jurisdictions. Watchmakers can copy an unpatented Rolex design as long as they put their own name and logo on it.

Using the Rolex name and logo is trademark infringement. These companies can be prosecuted for fraud and false advertising. In many places, it is illegal to own a counterfeit product. If you knowingly buy a fake, you could find yourself in legal trouble. Also, if you buy one, you are stuck with it. It is against the law in most countries to sell a counterfeit item even if you inform the potential buyer that it is a fake. 

I would thus advise you against buying a fake Rolex. The possible exposure to legal trouble, coupled with the fact that you are hurting the brand, no matter how wealthy it is, make it a really bad idea. Think about it. If it’s not real, you will always be aware of it and never have the satisfaction that real Rolex owners enjoy. As for prestige, the average person will rarely notice that you are even wearing a watch and a horology connoisseur will likely spot it as a fake. 

How to Avoid Getting a Fake Rolex

If you are in the market for a Rolex, you want to avoid getting stuck with a fake. The most important thing to do is to carefully vet any seller. Stick with a Rolex authorized dealer or a grey market shop with a sterling reputation. Avoid eBay and Craig’s list. They are loaded with shady types and you don’t know who you are dealing with. 

Don’t buy online unless the dealer has a great reputation. Check out the watch you are considering in person. Examine it thoroughly and look for all of the issues we discussed. Don’t be afraid to ask lots of questions. You are taking a big risk and are entitled to all information about the watch. If the seller is not forthcoming in answering your questions, get out of there.

If you have a friend who is very knowledgeable about watches, take them with you. By all means, do not even consider any “Rolex” that is being offered at a ridiculously low price. Even Rolex’s lowest-priced brand-new models are going to run north of $10,000. 

Conclusion

Rolex is easily the most well-known watch brand on the planet and it has an enormous number of fans. As such, it is the most counterfeited. If you dream of owning a Rolex, keep in mind that there are probably as many fakes out there as real ones.

Purchasing a fake Rolex or super clone is not worth it. Go with an AD or seller with an impeccable reputation and save your money to buy a genuine Rolex. You will be much happier. One more tip. If the name on the dial is spelled, “Rolecks”, it’s probably a fake. 

If you aren’t familiar with Tissot or Citizen watches, you must be new to watch collecting, because even those interested in high-end haute horlogerie know about these two key players in the industry. 

Both are leaders in affordable timepieces, and both have a lot to offer the beginner watch collector. In fact, either of these two brands is a great choice if you’re a novice. They promise good quality materials and reliability and offer an array of stylish timepieces to suit all tastes and needs.

While Citizen is a Japanese brand, Tissot’s heritage is firmly rooted in Swiss soil. The former specializes in eco-friendly technology, while you can consider the latter a gateway to affordable luxury. 

Either way, whether you choose the popular Japanese giant or the famous Swiss hard-hitter, you can’t go wrong when it comes to finding a day-to-day companion without burning a hole in your pocket. But what many people are interested in knowing is how they both compare. Let’s take a look as we address the Tissot vs Citizen watch debate.

Tissot – An Overview

Tissot is an expert in crafting affordable yet stylish wristwatches. Not only does the brand offer its fair share of solar-powered timepieces, but its mechanical wristwatches are also incredibly popular. 

The brand bridges the gap between traditional-looking timepieces and modern innovation, having experienced huge success with its T-Touch technology back in the 1990s, not to mention its classically-inspired sports watch category. 

The Tissot PRX is one watch design you’ll likely be familiar with. It’s one of the brand’s most celebrated models, inspired by iconic designs created by the legendary Gerald Genta during the 1970s. Those looking for a cheaper alternative to the Royal Oak or Nautilus, therefore, will find the Tissot PRX a good fit.

That’s not to say that Tissot doesn’t offer something for those who like the great outdoors, however. The models from the Touch series are powered by quartz movements and allow users to access the features they need via a touchscreen. 

These technical watches come equipped with features like an altimeter, chronograph, barometer, step counter, and compass. Although slightly confusing, the PRX watch is part of the Swiss brand’s T-Classic collection, while sporty models like the Seastar and PRS are part of the T-Sports collection.

Above all, Tissot watches come in a huge variety of styles and features, including ETA movements and those that promise up to 80 hours of power reserve, promising outstanding value for money.

Citizen – An Overview

Citizen made waves in the industry from an early age with its ground-breaking technological advances. It has become one of the largest manufacturers in the entire world since its birth during the 1930s. 

If you’ve been doing your research on the brand, you’ll already be aware that Citizen is a key player in the realm of solar-powered timepieces with its Eco-Drive series, and it specializes in atomic time via GPS technology. 

The fact is, Eco-Drive technology and its innovative solar-powered features made many other Citizen watches redundant at the time of its release, yet this didn’t deter the brand or its success.

The advantages of Citizen’s Eco-Drive watches became obvious from the get-go. They were (and still are) incredibly precise, promising to keep accurate time, even when only exposed to light for a short period of time. 

The fact that they could sit dormant in a drawer for months, yet require just moments of sunlight to power back into action, made them super convenient and better for the environment, too, saving many battery replacements throughout their lifespan.

Some Citizen Eco-Drive watches even have a power saver mode that proves particularly useful when worn in dark conditions for periods of time. 

Exploring Citizen watches can be quite overwhelming, due to the sheer amount of options on offer, yet collections like the Elegant, Sports, Promaster, and Super Titanium prove the most popular, offering a myriad of styles and designs to choose from.

The Mechanical Classic series is another great place to explore if you want watches with respectable water-resistant capability. In contrast, the Promaster Sky model from the aforementioned Promaster series is a pilot’s watch with a twist, offering radio versions, some of which feature lightweight titanium cases, as well as countless features for calculating flight data while air-bound.

Brand Histories

A quick look at the histories of Tissot and Citizen will give you a little insight into their backgrounds and how they compare to one another. Looking at both side-by-side will hopefully enable you to make an informed decision about which brand is best for you.

Out of the two, Tissot is the oldest watch brand, arriving on the scene in 1853. The brand was responsible for developing the first mass-produced pocket watch, as well as the first anti-magnetic watch. 

It partnered up with Omega around the time that Citizen was born, granting it access to some incredible movements and great success with models like the Tissot Navigator – the first mass-produced watch featuring 24 time zones, along with the Tissot Seastar. The quartz revolution had a huge impact on Tissot’s watch production. 

Switching tactics, it played the quartz game, finding ways to survive its crushing effect on the mechanical watch industry. This tactical solution, however, opened up the pathway for one of the brand’s most revolutionary designs, the Tissot T-Touch, which arrived in 1999.

On the other hand, we have Citizen, a brand that truly thrived throughout the quartz era. The company has always focussed on two things: affordability and technology. It created Japan’s first fully waterproof watch in 1959, named the Parawater. 

This sparked the beginnings of the brand’s innovative dive watch series, but meanwhile, Citizen experts were focussing on something altogether different – Eco-Drive technology. It was one of the first solar-powered wristwatches, taking pride in an environmentally conscious approach to modern watchmaking.

In 1993, Citizen released a world first – a multi-band atomic timekeeping wristwatch. It worked by synchronizing and adjusting its time with atomic clocks all over the world. In doing so, it promised accuracy down to the nanosecond.

Citizen or Tissot – Movement and Technology

When comparing Citizen watches side-by-side with Tissot watches, it’s clear to see that both excel in terms of timekeeping technology. The features offered by a T-Touch watch from Tissot are similar to those you would find in a modern smartwatch, providing you with important metrics in real-time, as you go. 

On the other hand, Citizen mostly specializes in solar-powered quartz technology, which harnesses the energy from light and converts that into power used for accurate timekeeping. The benefit of this technology eradicates the need for regular battery replacements, allowing you to technically forget about your watch while you wear it. 

In contrast, Tissot’s automatic watches offer a collector a more traditional way to keep track of time, adding to the charm and the appeal of mechanical timekeeping. While quartz watches are easy to maintain, many connoisseurs share the opinion that they’re too simple, lacking the craftsmanship and complexity of a mechanical.

Tissot vs Citizen – Aesthetics and Design

Citizen watches vary from complex, futuristic-looking timepieces to those inspired by Japanese minimalism, affording simplistic, clean dial layouts despite the sophistication of their built-in solar-powered technology. 

On the other hand, Tissot watches are favored for their classic designs. Traditional three-handed models sit alongside timeless chronographs, while different dial colors and two-tone (steel and gold-colored) options add more variety to the collections.

Both brands have plenty to offer by way of design, features, and case sizes. Tissot is a great brand to turn to if you’re looking for an affordable sports watch, while Citizen has a superb range of tool watches from the Promaster series – a collection for land, sea, and sky.

Tissot Watches – the Best Recommendations

One easy way to determine whether a Tissot is for you or not is to take a look at some recommendations.

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 T137.407.11.351.00

This Tissot Powermatic reference T137.407.11.351.00 is a great example that shows off all the sporty elegance of the Swiss brand’s popular PRX collection. Its dial, adorned with a distinctive waffle pattern, follows the design cues of the embossed dials seen in models like the Royal Oak and its iconic Grand Tapisserie dial. 

Its turquoise shade is reminiscent of the Tiffany dial that is showcased in the Patek Philippe Nautilus range, while its integrated bracelet is a must-have feature of any covetable steel sports watch. With sweet spot dimensions of 40mm, the Tissot PRX really is an entry-level into the world of sports watch collecting and is powered by a movement that provides an impressive 80 hours of power reserve.

Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80

Take a look at the gradient dial of this Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 watch. Perhaps the most inviting tones for gearing up for underwater exploration. And when taking this watch for a dip, you get to enjoy an impressive 600 meters of water resistance! 

The unidirectional bezel in black has a very readable 60-minute scale on its surface. You can also opt for the Seastar 2000 model with a black and gold gilt-coloured bezel, but there is something so sporty and tool-like about this blue gradient iteration, complete with a subtle wave-like surface texture that evokes the rippling waters of the ocean’s surface.

Citizen Watches – the Best Recommendations

Take a look at a couple of these superb bang-for-buck Citizen watch recommendations before deciding which brand is for you.

Citizen Promaster Diver Automatic Super Titanium NB6021-17E

Citizen offers some great dive watches in its Super Titanium watch collection – a series of timepieces that benefit from the lightweight and tactical nature of this popular material used in watchmaking. Take, for example, the Citizen Promaster Diver Automatic Super Titanium watch. 

It requires a broad wrist to carry its bold black-on-black case and strap design, yet its heft is cleverly counterbalanced by the lightweight qualities of the 200-meter water-resistant case. This watch is inspired by a historically important watch from Citizen’s archives – the 1977 Challenge Diver, which was found completely intact in 1983 on Long Reef Beach in Australia, having been exposed to the conditions of the Pacific Ocean for years. Thus, a model like this will appeal to those who like their watches to carry a little history and nostalgia.

Citizen Zenshin Chrono CA4610-85Z

The great thing about Citizen watches is the brand’s lightweight alternatives to the steel sports watch. The Citizen Zenshin Chrono ref CA4610-85Z has the integrated bracelet that collectors love so much about this style of watch. Crafted from Super Titanium, the watch features stepped chronograph counters in black against a textured salmon dial. 

A tachymeter scale also comes in handy for measuring speed based on distance. This watch is powered by Eco-Drive technology, and it never needs a battery. It promises 100 meters of water resistance and a tough sapphire crystal glass front.

The Tissot PRX or the Citizen Tsuyosa – A Comparison

One of the main comparisons collectors make when weighing up whether to purchase a Tissot watch or a Citizen watch is the Tissot PRX and the Citizen Tsuyosa. Both are easy to compare since they offer a similar aesthetic and are both powered by automatic movements.

Both the Citizen Tsuyosa and the Tissot PRX sit under the $1k bracket. The brand also offers a 40mm case width and a tonneau case shape that captures the ultra-popular steel sports watch aesthetic. Some subtle differences, however, include the case thickness – the Citizen Tsuyosa, which measures slightly thicker (12.2mm) than the PRX (11.2mm). 

This slight difference automatically means that the Tsuyosa will wear a little flatter against the wrist and will slide under the cuff of a shirt more easily. The latter also measures 1mm less in its lug-to-lug dimensions, too.

At a glance, the most obvious difference between these Citizen and Tissot watches is the dial finish. The Tsuyosa has a smooth sunray effect, while the PRX has the aforementioned waffle effect. 

Again, choosing between the two is simply down to preference, but if it’s an affordable Royal Oak you’re looking for, the PRX wins hands down on that front. An interesting feature of the Tsuyosa is the magnified lens above the date window at 3 o’clock, which the PRX lacks.

Bracelet-wise, the Citizen sports watch boasts rounded end links, while the Tissot sports watch has flatter links that are more reminiscent of models from a bygone era. The Tsuyosa is powered by a very basic Miyota movement. 

Nevertheless, it’s a reliable workhorse, producing a steady 40 hours of power reserve. Conversely, Tissot equips its PRX watch with the refined Powermatic engine, which is complete with double the power reserve of the Tsuyosa.

Although both of these watches are very similar in terms of design and features, in my opinion, the PRX wins over the Tsuyosa for a couple of reasons. 

Firstly, the PRX has a slightly more ergonomic design, sitting flatter on the wrist and making it more suited to office environments. Secondly, for a couple of hundred bucks more, you can enjoy a movement with double the power reserve, and the execution of the dial evokes a superior and more sophisticated finish.

Which is the Right Brand for You?

We can simplify the Tissot vs Citizen debate by looking at the key facts about each brand. Tissot offers some great affordable automatic watches for under $500, which make for absolute steals compared to the price of some Swiss alternatives. 

The company quickly learned how to take Swiss craftsmanship and convert it into designs that appealed to the mass market, and it certainly paid off. Some automatic Tissot watches are powered by mechanical movements that provide longer power reserves too, and even feature exhibition casebacks.

Above all, Tissot watches can be as classic and simple as you like, many of which exude a sportiness that makes for some great casual daily beaters.

Citizen watches cover a slightly broader price spectrum, with models priced as low as $200 for an Eco-Drive watch. Their aesthetics have a strong utilitarian vibe, while plenty of simple quartz models have classic aesthetics.

So, Citizen or Tissot – which is the better brand? The answer to that quandary really lies in personal preference and remains a matter of priority. Are you willing to splash out a little more for an automatic Tissot, or is the unbeatable precision of a Citizen watch more important to you?