For those dedicated to running, a good watch is a must-have. The capabilities a good smartwatch can bring make the training process infinitely easier, such as dictating the proper time to rest and keeping track of athletic performance. 

The very best running watches are far more than a typical smartwatch: they’re purpose-built for people like you. Dedicated runners looking to take things to the next level or looking to do what they do better. 

So, if you’re curious about the very best watches that could take your running up a notch, read on because here are 10 of the most spectacular running watches.

Running Watches: A Surprising History

Before we get into the top 10 running watches, let’s examine a quick breakdown of their origins, which are surprisingly fascinating. There are multiple different historical developments that can be pointed to as the precursor of the modern running watch. 

Among these, it would be easy for me to indicate the chronograph, or stopwatch, as the ultimate predecessor of running watches. After all, stopwatches are the key to timing races, and before the advent of wearable GPS, runners would turn to digital chronographs to help them prepare for races.

Personally, I think the running watch has an even more interesting start: the pedometer, made by watchmakers in the era of the famous Abraham-Louis Breguet, one of the greatest watchmakers of all time. 

These pedometers were designed as step counters, primarily to determine how quickly army troops were marching. Their capability to measure movement speed is strongly reminiscent of modern GPS running watches, and I find the parallels between this development and future running watches particularly compelling.

In all, I’m sure that both the chronograph and pedometer played a role in developing the modern running watch into what it is today. 

Modern smartwatches are so far removed from these mechanical wonders that we often find almost no parallels at all—but it’s important to remember that everything here in the present is firmly grounded in the past and that even the design of these smartwatches comes directly from that of wristwatches which have continued for a century.

The 10 Best Watches for Runners

Without further ado, let’s get right into it! Each watch is, of course, at a different price point and a different level of accessibility, so the “ranking” is naturally not strictly objective. To this end, the ranking will mostly ignore price and list watches based on their attributes and qualities.

10. Garmin Forerunner 55

The Forerunner 55 is the classic entry-level offering from Garmin that, in terms of price, beats every other watch listed here at just $200. The Forerunner 55 still features many of Garmin’s trademarks, such as personalized running plans, GPS tracking, and overall health and wellness reports. 

It also offers a massive two-week battery life, which is absolutely stunning for the watch’s size and price. While its presentation and style aren’t quite as elegant as some of its competitors, it features some very advanced technical features for a reduced price, making it a powerful option from Garmin.

9. Fitbit Sense 2

Following up on the theme of affordability, the Fitbit Sense 2 is a great option for the more casual runner. At a retail of $250, it’s much more inexpensive than the other watches discussed here and focuses on a very overall depiction of your health. A major emphasis of the watch’s attributes, for example, is measuring and managing stress. The watch automatically detects periods of elevated stress and suggests methods for coping with them.

Unfortunately, most of the fitness features that the Sense 2 supplies are only accessible with Fitbit Premium. With Fitbit Premium, however, I find that the watch really comes alive. You gain access to many features that are found in watches at a much higher price point, such as a Daily Readiness Score and a workout library that also includes mindfulness sessions.

8. Garmin Forerunner 265

Another entry-level beauty, the Forerunner 265 features almost all of the advanced running features one would expect from Garmin at a reduced price. The sharp AMOLED touchscreen display is large and easily accessible. Garmin Coach plans and a Morning Report also ensure that runners will always know what lies ahead and be able to train effectively as they prepare for their next race. Multi-band GPS and SatIQ maps round out the functionality of this little stunner by Garmin.

For its price of $450, the Forerunner 265 is a remarkable watch with some very considerable capabilities despite not being quite at the level of its siblings, like the 965. That said, it’s a watch that stands at a solid middle-ground in affordability and makes no compromises in its performance.

7. Coros Pace 3

The Coros Pace 3 is easily one of the best entry-level running watches. Small, lightweight, and built entirely of plastic, it has a reduced wrist presence that includes multi-band GPS with a very advanced optical heart rate sensor. It also has a long battery life, with 24 days of continuous use.

Even for a lower-priced watch, the Pace 3 has countless running analytics, such as training load, running performance, and aerobic endurance, among many others. It also supports third-party apps like Strava and Apple Fitness. In all, it’s good for dedicated runners at an entry-level price of $230.

6. Coros Vertix 2

With the Coros Vertix 2, we enter firmly into the camp of purpose-built athletic smartwatches with a wide variety of helpful features. It’s designed for adventures, so it’s the most applicable to trail runners. However, it is still a very strong option for runners of all kinds. I

ts extremely powerful GPS system is actually not limited to GPS but rather to all five positioning satellite systems simultaneously—including GPS, Galileo, GLONASS, QZSS, and Beidou. As such, whether you’re deep in the jungle or between the skyscrapers of the urban jungle, the Vertix 2 is almost guaranteed to pinpoint your run with precision. Global offline mapping means you can track your position no matter where you find yourself.

The battery life is absolutely stunning—39 days of normal non-GPS use—and the touchscreen is easy to interface with, as the crown can be rotated to move the screen and pushed to trigger specific functions.

Whether you’re an adventurer or a runner who appreciates precision and accuracy, the Vertix 2 is a spectacular watch for the price of $700.

5. Samsung Galaxy Watch Ultra

Perhaps the clearest competitor to the Apple Watch, the Galaxy Watch Ultra is a formidable versatile smartwatch that provides an excellent holistic overview of your health and wellness. 

Standout features include the integration of Galaxy AI, which greatly enhances your workouts by providing recommendations and other functions, such as the opportunity to race yourself and push your own limits.

I find it most compelling that the Galaxy Watch Ultra displays not only the standard biological functions like heart rate but also seeks to capture an even better snapshot of your health through the inclusion of a dietary function, the AGEs index. Sleep, exercise, and diet are all combined here to present a complete picture of health that few other watches are able to present.

At around $450, the Galaxy Watch Ultra is considerably less expensive than its competitors, and I find it to be a very attractive option for runners seeking a versatile everyday watch.

4. Apple Watch Ultra 2

The Apple Watch is far and away the most iconic smartwatch of all time, and for good reason. Yet it wasn’t until the Ultra 2 that Apple developed a powerful purpose-built athletic watch that competes with brands like Garmin and Polar while still providing all of the characteristic Apple Watch functionality. I find that this combination of everyday and athletic utility makes the Apple Watch a strong, versatile pick.

Much like other athletic smartwatches, the Ultra 2 uses a wide variety of biosensors to display all the biological information a runner could ask for, from sleep tracking to heart and respiratory rates.

Where the Ultra 2 really sets itself apart, beyond the versatility of the rest of its everyday features, is in accessibility. When running, trying to use a small touchscreen is far from easy, and the Ultra 2 has been designed so that specific easy gestures are linked to various functions, allowing for much better accessibility. 

It also features a large programmable Action Button that can trigger a variety of functions. At $799, the Ultra 2 is a shade more expensive than its direct competitors, but the added price comes with greatly improved versatility and use.

3. Polar Vantage 3

The Polar Vantage 3 is built from the ground up as a watch for serious runners and athletes, and its technical characteristics show that very clearly. One of its key qualities is the wide array of biosensors that it bears. Thanks to the bright AMOLED screen, runners can easily see ECG, blood oxygen saturation, skin temperature, optical heart rate, and more. 

The Vantage 3 also has a 129% faster CPU than the Vantage 2, which greatly boosts every feature—from its 150+ profiles for different sports activities to the multi-band GPS system. At just a hair under $600, it’s clearly set up to compete with others like the Garmin Forerunner 965, and it certainly puts up quite a fight.

2. Garmin Forerunner 965

The Garmin Forerunner 965 is a brilliant middle-ground runner’s watch that couples spectacular functionality to a much more affordable price than others like the MARQ Athlete Gen 2. 

At just shy of $600, the Forerunner provides all of the Garmin capabilities one could hope for, from custom Garmin Coach training programs to built-in maps with an accurate multi-band GPS, all of which are displayed on a stunning bright AMOLED screen.

That said, the Forerunner 965 changed very little from its immediate predecessor, the 955, apart from the new AMOLED screen and the tough titanium bezel. In this instance, I think it would be best to hesitate to purchase this one. 

The 965 was released in March 2023, and as it didn’t change much from the 955, the next evolution of this watch could be a considerable step up. That said, it is still a remarkable watch for its price and one well worth a purchase.

1. Garmin MARQ Athlete Gen 2 – Carbon Edition

You couldn’t possibly ask for anything more than what this watch provides. The list of features on Garmin’s website is almost too long to list out here, so if this one is compelling to you, you’ll have to do a bit of research on your own. For now, I’ll dive into the very best features, especially those specific to runners.

The Carbon Edition features a case machined from 130 layers of fused carbon fiber, which provides both an incredibly rugged and avant-garde look along with a delightful lightness of presence on the wrist that is highly durable. 

The watch’s hardware is far from disappointing: it provides VO2 Max and recovery time on the bezel, along with a massive suite of features for athletes of all sorts in its built-in functions. 

Runners will want to target the Endurance Score, which reveals your ability to sustain prolonged exercise, as well as Running Power, Training Status, and PacePro Technology, all of which are helpful tools mid-exercise in perfecting your workouts. A final key feature to note is the Morning Report, displayed once you awake, indicating your readiness for physical activity.

At a retail of $2,950, these great features won’t come cheap, but for the dedicated runner, it may be well worth the price.

Conclusion

There are countless spectacular running smartwatches on the market today, and it’s difficult to narrow them down to just 10 of the best picks. Each one offers its own special features that set it apart from its competitors. Each one of these speaks to me in its own way, and I find each one really remarkable for its features and technological accomplishments. I hope that you, too, found the one that speaks to you here.

To the world of wristwatches, the age-old adage that you get what you pay for is particularly pertinent. Exceptional works of horological beauty with spectacular dials and advanced complications come with equally exceptional price tags, reserving them for the lucky few who can afford such masterpieces. For the most part, only a few more inexpensive timepieces are able to distinguish themselves—many pieces by Tudor, for example, or some of the entry-level Cartier tanks. 

The Grand Seiko SBGN027, in my opinion, is the latest addition to this latter group of remarkable and affordable timepieces. Though it bears a movement of the often-disdained quartz type, the watch is truly an exceptional work for a relatively affordable price. It is one of those watchmaking masterpieces which appear quiet and simple on the exterior and on the inside reveal themselves to be utterly spectacular, a point at which the GMT complication it bears can only hint. I firmly believe that this beautiful, technically advanced piece of craftsmanship deserves a place in every discerning collector’s box, and for those who seek one watch for every occasion, the SBGN027 is one of the finest that can be earned.

A Keystone of Quartz Watchmaking History

Released in November 2022, the SBGN027 is a relatively recent watch that continues the line of Caliber 9F watches introduced by Grand Seiko back in 1993. Since then, the caliber has continued to evolve and develop into the true powerhouse that it is today.

Frankly, the Caliber 9F is truly spectacular, as I’ll explore even more below. The SBGN027 joins a long heritage of wonderful quartz watches through this line, making it one of the heirs to a powerful legacy. It’s important to recall that Seiko were the very first to introduce quartz in watchmaking form through their Astron model and in many ways they have not ceased to push the boundaries of what’s possible. While I’ll save the technical exploration of the Caliber 9F’s merits for later on, the SBGN027 is joining a legacy that began with the very first Seiko quartz in the 1970s and since 1993 has been made into something wonderful.

In terms of structure and layout, the watch very clearly follows established Grand Seiko design language, positioning itself perfectly as an entry-level piece that screams the Japanese maison’s well-known elegance. It features spectacular polishing that makes it absolutely radiant with light and a similar case structure to many of their other pieces. In everything, the SBGN027 reveals itself as a keystone of entry-level Grand Seiko pieces that are truly integrated into the brand’s already-stunning offerings.

Case: Spectacular Polishing at an Affordable Price

Grand Seiko is world-renowned for spectacular cases and the SBGN027, despite its reduced price, is no exception to their high hand-finished standards. The stainless steel case features a relatively muted visual profile with less contrast compared to some of their other pieces for an overall more subdued appearance that still displays extreme craftsmanship. The flanks of the case feature GS’s signature Zaratsu finishing, which produces mirror-polished surfaces polished by hand that positively gleam with light. Each Zaratsu-finished face is designed to be as broad and flat as possible, which not only makes the polish more exceptional and radiant in capturing light but also makes the task of applying the finish far more difficult, as it must be evenly performed over a large surface. Zaratsu finishing is an extremely advanced technique that young GS watchmakers must spend quite some time mastering. The case is held to a rapidly spinning sandpaper disk to polish it, which is unlike the buffing wheels used by most other high-end watchmakers. The watchmaker cannot see the polish being applied and must rather feel through their fingertips when the piece is completed by the temperature of friction and the pressure they apply. In all, it’s a difficult process that produces a magnificent result. The tops of the watch’s lugs are hairline-finished, another signature Grand Seiko technique that means first applying a Zaratsu polish, then very gently brushing the area of the watch with lower-grit sandpaper to provide a gently brushed look. Again, this provides a hint of visual contrast between the soft hairline and the Zaratsu that is not too harsh or striking. Finally, the case is an average 39 mm in diameter by 12.3 mm thick, which provides a subdued and thin profile. The case’s shape itself is gentle and elegant, with strong broad lugs that flow into the roundness of the bezel and case ring. 

The bezel carries a typical GMT 24-hour scale, which when rotated actually enables the user to track a third time zone beyond simply the second one that the GMT hand bears. This is done by rotating the bezel so that the scale matches the offset from normal time. For example, for a time zone one hour ahead of the time indicated by the GMT hand, simply rotate the bezel so that the 24 is above 1:00. The bezel itself is mutedly finished with the same gentle satin hairline finishing that merges well into the polishing of the lugs.

Personally, I find the placement of the crown at 4:00 to be a somewhat disappointing move by Grand Seiko. The crown is semi-recessed and so is set practically up against one of the lugs, which limits its access and prevents an easy setting experience. That said, as a quartz watch the time won’t need to be set very often, and in those cases the crown will be pulled out to do so, which of course provides much more access. The crown also follows the placement of the date window (see more on that later) and, frankly, does allow for more of a sporty look by moving it to a lesser-used position. As such, while it is not directly to my tastes, it could certainly be seen well by many collectors as a contrarian and sporty choice.

As a final note, the watch bears a double-domed crystal, which adds some extra thickness but can also serve to visually reduce the profile of the watch itself by adding a visual line that gently curves up from the flanks of the watch to a rounded top. As such, the watch is made more visually elegant at the cost of some extra thickness, which is not a concern given the 12.3mm thickness of the watch body and the sporty nature of the piece itself.

Dial: Distilled Grand Seiko Elegance

Grand Seiko is a watchmaker known for their magnificent dials, and the SBGN027 is no different. Like the rest of the watch, it is subdued but perfectly executed, and no corners were cut in its production compared to any of their other watches.

In most lights, the dial is a very rich and deep black, but under brighter lighting it reveals itself to have a faint sunburst pattern applied that makes it gleam with a lighter gray and even slightly brownish tone in those areas where it radially captures the light. The black dial contributes to the monochromatic palette of the rest of the watch and also gives it more of a formal appearance, making it a true go-anywhere watch that serves a sporty purpose but can also be paired with more dressy attire.

Both the hands and the applied indices are brushed on the top and bear high-polished Zaratsu finishing on their flanks, which I find creates a beautiful visual continuity between the rest of the watch—recalling the hairline finish on the tops of the lugs and the Zaratsu polish on the flanks of the case. This subtle feature truly melds the dial into the rest of the watch. It’s an extremely elegant touch that I’m very fond of by Grand Seiko.

The dial also features Seiko’s proprietary LumiBrite paint instead of standard Swiss Super-LumiNova. It’s applied in limited amounts, only at 3, 6, 9, and 12, and on the hands. According to Seiko, LumiBrite is improved in nearly every way over standard lume—it absorbs more light energy, charges more quickly (full charge in just 10 minutes of exposure to sunlight!), glows more intensely, and lasts for longer. It’s another sporty and functional touch that I find quite compelling.

The GMT hand contrasts highly from the others in finishing and structure. It’s longer and thinner, of course, but also visually appears lighter in color and has a less-exaggerated polish than the other hands. It also carries LumiBrite paint at the tip of the arrow, and matches well with the dial signature of the logo in its tone and brightness as well as with the 24-hour GMT scale on the rehaut.

Finally, I also find the placement of the date window at 4:00 a very interesting and somewhat disappointing touch. If anything could work well with the 4:00 crown, it would be the date window—it does help the crown feel more integrated into the design of the watch as both match. However, I would frankly prefer to find each one at 3:00. That said, it’s clear that Grand Seiko didn’t want to shorten the beautifully-polished 3:00 marker by placing the date window there, so the 4:00 placement does make sense in this context. Overall, it’s an ambiguous choice—some will love it, and some will hate it. Beauty is, after all, in the eye of the beholder!

Movement: A Quartz Wonder

With a normal quartz watch, the movement description would be short and mostly negative. After all, mechanical movements are always preferred to quartz ones, right? In this case, I strongly disagree. The Caliber 9F86 is the equal in almost every regard of the craftsmanship that goes into a mechanical movement, and it simply must not be seen as lacking in any way in the comparison to a mechanical movement.

The Caliber 9F86 is truly revolutionary in terms of quartz technology. It features a list of features too long to fully exposit here: an instant date change at midnight carefully set by GS craftsmen; a built-in temperature compensation system that measures its own internal temperature and adjusts it; a sealed body so that dust and oil don’t enter the movement during a battery replacement; a special quartz regulatory system; and two more rather key details explored below.

First, the movement has much higher torque than other quartz movements, which normally require thin and light hands. I’ve found that this can cause most quartz watches to look very alike and greatly limits design choices across different watches as only a smaller variety of lighter hand styles and designs can be used. Through the use of a Twin Pulse Control Motor which allows their quartz watches to bear the exact same style of hands as all their mechanical watches, Grand Seiko was able to avoid this dangerous design pitfall. The Twin Pulse Control Motor delivers two impulses, not one, every time the second hand ticks, but these happen so quickly that it appears like just one to the naked eye. This greatly increases output torque by the rotor and allows the battery to maintain, even with relatively large and heavy hands, its astounding 3-year power reserve.

Second, the caliber 9F86 features a specially developed Backlash Auto-Adjust Mechanism. In most quartz watches, the seconds hand suffers from high degree of backlash—there’s a large amount of shudder and inaccuracy in its ticking, which can end up not quite centered on the marker on the minutes track or can be left to take an extra bit of time to stop shuddering and center itself on the marker. To Grand Seiko, this was utterly unacceptable and had to be corrected to meet their high standards. They introduced the Backlash Auto-Adjust Mechanism to correct this. By introducing a small hairspring—the same sort of spring used in normal mechanical balance wheels—they managed to find a solution where the seconds hand springs forward and elegantly lands precisely on the right spot with no shudder or shake. To my eyes, this is an extremely beautiful feature that makes the single ticking of a quartz-powered seconds hand even rival that of the sweep of a mechanical watch. The simple ticking that lands precisely on the right spot, seeming to fly forward and stop on a dime, is incredibly elegant and on a philosophical level can even be said to recall the concept of time marching firmly by.

Each Grand Seiko quartz movement is assembled by hand by just two craftsmen, one of whom builds the date complication and the other the rest of the movement. Even the quartz crystals are produced in-house: they’re grown and then aged for 3 months before they can be used in a watch. The caliber 9F86 also bears a magnetic-resistant plate as well as a double-thick mainplate which not only provides durability but also a little bit of extra heft, which is often a delightful quality in high-end watches that many collectors enjoy.

In my opinion, the caliber 9F86 is utterly spectacular. Sure, it’s quartz—but it has every bit all the craftsmanship and class that goes into a mechanical movement with an accuracy that outperforms any mechanical movement on the market today.

Straps

The SBGN027 comes with a three-link Oyster-like bracelet that’s elegant but also very understated. In my opinion, it’s slightly disappointing compared to some of Grand Seiko’s other bracelets, but this is also to be expected considering the price point which is greatly reduced. In fact, in this light, it’s remarkably far beyond what could be expected from its competitors. The bracelet has a simple but clean push-button clasp and the majority of the surfaces bear a subtle satin hairline finish, just like the rest of the watch. Again, the design continuity is carried forward by Zaratsu-polishing the flanks of the bracelet and having the tops hairline-finished, just like with the indices and case. I find this continuity gorgeous, but I would prefer just a touch more visual contrast on the surface of the bracelet, with perhaps a differently-polished inner link.

The watch would also be well paired with a black leather strap to provide a dressier look and greatly boost the elegance of the watch by emphasizing the refined and formal black dial. At an even 20mm between the lugs, it will be a simple matter to find a suitable strap.

The bracelet, important to note, is sized with screws, has half-links, and four micro-adjust holes. As such, it will be easy to find a perfect fit, and the bracelet’s fit will be exceptionally comfortable.

On-Wrist Experience

The SBGN027, as I’ve discussed earlier in the article, has a comfortable and subdued wrist presence thanks to the combination of a multitude of factors. The double-thick mainplate of the quartz movement provides added heft that I personally find quite appealing as a reminder of the watch’s presence—often, quartz watches are too light for my tastes, and I can go a whole day while scarcely remembering that I’m wearing a watch. The bracelet can be easily adjusted to a very snug and comfortable fit as best suits the wearer. The polishing of the case is not too harsh or flashy to draw attention and the watch can easily go relatively unnoticed by others.

The 39 mm diameter of the case means that the watch can be easily worn by a wide range of wrists, especially those with wrists between 6.25-8 inches in circumference. The thinness provided by the quartz movement means the watch can be easily slipped under a dress cuff despite its double-domed dial, and with that classy black dial, this is a situation that won’t be too uncommon. 

The watch has frankly very little competition when it comes to elegant travel pieces. Whether voyaging across time zones for business meetings, weddings, or simply vacation, the GMT function paired with the subdued and classy presence of the watch means that the SBGN027 will be a faithful companion wherever life takes you.

Price & Availability

The SBGN027 is not a limited edition, as one might expect from its affordable position in Grand Seiko’s offerings. As such, it’s likely that it’ll remain open to collectors for a long time to come, continuing to provide an entry-level access point to the very finest of Japanese watchmaking. If it is ever retired, it’s likely it will only be done to introduce a new model in its place.

At a retail price of $3,400 available from Grand Seiko boutiques or from Exquisite Timepieces, this is a watch that positions itself at a perfect level of accessibility to almost all dedicated collectors as well as being open to those who are looking for a watch to accompany them everywhere in life. I find that for its value and what is included in this spectacular piece, the price is shockingly low.

Conclusion

In all, the SBGN027 is a truly spectacular new release from Grand Seiko for its price range. While it leaves a few elements ever so slightly lacking, such as the bracelet finishing and the odd crown placement (both of which, to be fair, may be benefits in some eyes!), the SBGN027 checks an exceptional number of watchmaking boxes for its price range. From the spectacular quartz movement that bears craftsmanship far beyond that of many mechanical watches to the clever design continuity of its finishing, this is a watch that deserves a place in the collection of everyone who can appreciate fine craftsmanship, elegance, and quality.

There are few watches in Grand Seiko’s portfolio that don’t turn heads. These luxury timepieces often have jaw-dropping dial textures and cutting-edge movements that are hard to find elsewhere, especially at the price points the Japanese watchmaker offers them. 

But there are a handful of Grand Seiko watches that fly under the radar. Not because they’re not spectacular in their own right but because they’re often overshadowed by releases with more fascinating complications or more intricate dials. 

Yet, it’s sometimes not the loud, headline-grabbing releases that are the best. The quiet, subtle ones that sneak up on you with their subtlety and refinement usually become the ideal daily beaters. 

One such watch is the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301. Before today, it wasn’t a watch I’d had any hands-on time with, and that was predominantly because most of my focus had been on other releases. But after receiving the SBGH301 and wearing it on my wrist this past week, I’m feeling almost guilty having not given it the time of day.

The Evolution of the 44GS

When the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat collection launched in 2023, it didn’t exactly steal the spotlight. And honestly, that’s not surprising. 

Grand Seiko had so many incredible releases that year, including the groundbreaking Tentagraph, that it’s understandable that some of the more “basic” time-only watches didn’t get much attention. 

But the 44GS collection has never really been about flash or theatrics anyway. Instead, the new line-up quietly refined an iconic 1960s Grand Seiko, focusing on subtle changes that made all the difference. 

The Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 is part of an understated yet meaningful refresh. 

It replaced the lighter grey SBGH279 in the time-and-date segment of the Heritage Collection, introducing a darker, moodier dial that feels richer and more connected to its inspiration. 

Grand Seiko’s strategy here wasn’t to reinvent the wheel but to perfect what was already working. The tweaks to the case, bracelet, and especially the dial brought this series into sharper focus for collectors who crave those incremental improvements. 

Joining this release were four additional references, too. Alongside the SBGH301, we saw the SBGH299 (silver dial) step in for the SBGH277 and new GMT models like the SBGJ263 and SBGJ265. Each one felt like a natural evolution, balancing Grand Seiko’s signature craftsmanship with a fresh perspective.

A View of Mt. Iwate 

Although different in their own right, the five new Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat watches are connected by one major inspiration: Mount Iwate. 

Towering near the brand’s Shizukuishi Watch Studio in Japan, this mountain has become not just a breathtaking backdrop to all their hard work but an endless source of inspiration. The studio, where every single one of Grand Seiko’s mechanical watches is meticulously crafted, has windows that frame stunning views of the mountain. 

Each watch in the latest 44GS Hi-Beat series draws from a unique element of the mountain. Some dials reflect the look of snow or rain as it cascades down its rugged slopes, while others, like the ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ SBGH301, capture a specific moment in time. 

This particular piece is inspired by the serene beauty of dusk, the way shadows dance across the mountain’s surface, and the texture of the rock darkening as the sun sets. The dial’s intricate pattern mimics this interplay of light and shadow, creating an effect that’s both subtle and captivating – but more on that shortly.

An Ever-Brilliant Steel Case 

The Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 watch and its 2023 counterparts mark only the second time the brand has ever used Ever-Brilliant steel in non-limited form. The only other occurrence before this was the SLGH013, launched in 2022. It’s quite a big deal, especially for watch collectors like myself who really value durability. 

Unlike standard stainless steel, Ever-Brilliant Steel is an advanced alloy with a Pitting Resistance Equivalent Number (PREN) 1.7 times higher than the 316L steel used in most luxury watches. This means it’s incredibly resistant to rust and corrosion and is much more likely to survive daily life. 

Plus, beyond durability, the metal has a unique bright white finish that is beautiful, and when combined with the intricate Zaratsu polishing techniques Grand Seiko is famous for, the result is breathtaking. 

The case itself is inspired by the original 44GS from 1967, which set the blueprint for Grand Seiko’s iconic “Grammar of Design.” With its angular lines, flat surfaces, and delicate curves, the case feels sculptural yet functional. 

At 40mm in diameter, 46.2mm from lug-to-lug, and 13.29mm thick, it’s perfectly proportioned for everyday wear. While not the slimmest of cases, its dimensions feel balanced, and the subtle curves of the lugs help it sit comfortably on the wrist.

Zaratsu polishing is used on almost the entirety of the case, from the fixed bezel to the lug tops and case sides. This incredible finish is achieved by pressing the precious metal against a spinning tin plate which creates this mirror-like surface. 

It’s completely distortion-free and reflects the light a lot like a mirror. There are some thoughtful brushed sections strategically placed on the case too, such as on the sharp outer flank. These minute details, although barely noticeable, add contrast and emphasize the geometric design of the 44GS case.

The Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 watch features double-domed sapphire crystal on top, coated with an anti-reflective layer on the inner surface for enhanced durability and legibility. 

Flip the watch over, and you’ll find a sapphire display case back, too, one that offers a view of the remarkable Hi-Beat movement ticking away inside. The case also sports a screw-down crown at 3 o’clock embossed with the GS logo, providing 10 bar (100 meters) of water resistance.

The Detail Is In The Dial

Typically, my favorite feature of a Grand Seiko watch is the dial, and although the ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 is one of the Japanese watch brand’s simpler designs, it’s still beautiful. 

While technically dark gray, its tone shifts subtly depending on the light, giving it a dynamic quality that keeps your wrist glancing interesting. It’s understated but rich, offering a depth that’s hard to capture in photos (as always for Grand Seiko) but impossible to ignore in person.

The centerpiece of the design is Grand Seiko’s iconic Mount Iwate pattern, inspired by the ridged slopes of the mountain visible from the Shizukuishi Studio. The pattern radiates from the center like a sunburst, but it’s more refined than your typical sunburst dial. 

It mimics the texture of dusk settling over the mountain, similar to the way the fading light interacts with the rugged peaks. It’s a quiet yet powerful tribute to nature and once again captures Grand Seiko’s love of their country and nature.

The dial is clean and simple, which, for me, only enhances the watch’s elegance. There’s no fussy power reserve indicator or GMT scale, just a simple selection of three hands and the date. 

Like the case, all the hardware seen on the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 watch’s dial is hand-finished. The razor-sharp dauphine-style hour and minute hands are brushed on top and polished on the edges, while the baton-style indices are hand-applied and faceted, combining brushed and polished surfaces to catch the light beautifully.

A polished-framed date window at 3 o’clock adds a touch of practicality without disrupting the symmetry, while the white-on-black date wheel is a fantastic choice, keeping the dark backdrop concise but still providing easy readability. The only other features to note are the applied GS logo at 12 o’clock crowning lettering for Grand Seiko and matching text at 6 o’clock, which notes the Hi-Beat movement inside.

A Hi-Beat Movement 

For its movement, the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 elects their in-house Caliber 9S85. Known as a high-beat movement, it operates an incredible frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5Hz, which allows it to measure time with remarkable precision and stability. 

But with a high-beat movement that oscillates faster than traditional calibers there are some challenges. For example, although it improves accuracy, it does put greater demand on the movement’s components and thus affects both the power reserve and durability.

But of course, in typical Grand Seiko fashion, they worked to overcome these issues and patented several in-house technologies to tackle them. One of them is their MEMS (Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems) technology, which allows for the precise crafting of components that are lighter, stronger, and smoother. 

Another is their use of Spron alloys in the mainspring and hairspring. These proprietary materials provide greater elasticity and resistance to shock, wear, and temperature variations. This not only enhances the movement’s durability but also extends the power reserve to 55 hours. This is incredibly impressive for a high-beat caliber. 

The Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 is also wonderfully accurate, boasting a rating of -3 to +5 seconds per day. This not only meets but exceeds the rigorous standards of the Swiss COSC certification (-4 to +6 seconds per day). 

To ensure the reliability of its accuracy claim, the Caliber 9S85 is placed under a 17-day testing period where it is assessed in six different positions and at three temperatures, ensuring consistent accuracy in real-world conditions. 

As mentioned, the automatic movement is visible through the sapphire crystal case back, framed by a stunning beaded edge that naturally draws your attention to the decoration inside. Decoration includes 37 jewels, striped plates and perlage.

An Ever-Brilliant Steel Bracelet

Completing the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 watch is an Ever-Brilliant steel bracelet to match the case. It’s a beautiful bracelet in many ways. The finishing in particular is gorgeous, but there are a few points here that let the watch down slightly. 

But let’s start with the good points first. I love the architecture and the way the links stagger in formation, size and finish. It looks fantastic and really adds to the watch’s dressy and sporty personality. 

For finishing, Grand Seiko have elected a mix of brushed and polishing components. The wonderful, beveled edges and inner flanks gleam with Zaratsu polishing while the majority of the bracelet’s surface is brushed.  The clasp is solid, too. It’s a twin-trigger release, so it stays put and doesn’t just pop open when you least expect it. You’ll also find the Grand Seiko logo embossed in relief on top of the clasp. 

Now here’s the “but”. Micro-adjustment on the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301’s bracelet is almost nil. There are some half links on each end of the bracelet and screw links for easy adjustment, but to get that perfect fit will be a little tricky. The 19mm lug width is also a little awkward, but not the end of the world. Although it might not be easy to find a huge number of 19mm replacement straps, swapping them out will be easy thanks to the drilled lugs.

On-Wrist Experience

After just a couple of days of wearing the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 watch, I decided this was one of those easy-to-throw-on watches. It’s pretty much the perfect everyday companion. You don’t have to baby it since it’s relatively durable thanks to its Ever Brilliant Steel construction. It’s just nice to wear a watch you know will hold up against those daily bumps and scrapes. The finish of the steel is also stunning, keeping things classy and sophisticated. 

And of course, you have the dial. At first glance, it’s all business: a classic black sunburst finish that could easily pass for a formal dress watch. But get up close and it’s got a whole secret life going on. The intricate, raindrop-esque texture and the way it plays with the light is beautiful. It makes it dressy enough for a big meeting or a nice dinner, but it’s also subtle enough that you don’t feel like you’re overdressed wearing it to the grocery store. 

It’s also a well-sized watch. At 40mm in diameter with a 46.2mm lug-to-lug, this watch sits super comfortably on the wrist. It’s got that Goldilocks “just right” vibe that makes it work for a ton of wrist sizes. I’d suggest it would best suit anything between 6 inches and 7.5 inches, but if you prefer oversized timepieces or even smaller vintage-inspired designs, it will still look great on other frames too. 

I will say the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 watch is a little on the thicker side than I’d normally like at 13.29mm. It’s not overly chunky but the domed sapphire crystal definitely adds some height. If you’re someone who wears super tight shirt cuffs, it might not be the easiest to slide under there. But if your cuffs aren’t painted on (or if you’re like me and mostly roll your sleeves up anyway), it’s not a big deal. Plus, that slight thickness gives it more of a sporty edge.

Price & Availability

If you’re tempted to add the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 watch to your collection as much as me, you’ll be pleased to know it’s a non-limited edition that is currently a main-stay in the Japanese watchmaker’s Heritage collection. It retails brand new for $7,000 which although is a little more expensive than some of their other time-only Hi-Beat models, it is warranted since it uses their Ever-Brilliant steel across the entirety of the case and bracelet. 

You can also find the release on the second-hand market for around $5,000. But just make sure to purchase through an official Grand Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces. That way, you know you’re getting a genuine watch with all the official box and paperwork

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 is a brilliant watch in so many ways. It’s a perfect all-rounder that effortlessly balances style, durability, and functionality. It’s the kind of watch you can throw on without a second thought. It’s reliable, thanks to its hi-beat movement and COSC-worthy accuracy, so you know you’re always keeping perfect time. Plus, it’s beautiful and durable, so know you’ll always look the part.

But I think my favorite thing about this release is its dual personality. It’s elegant enough to hold its own in a boardroom but laid-back enough to pair with jeans and a tee. The brushed and polished finish keeps it sharp but not over-the-top, while the Ever Brilliant Steel ensures it can handle the wear and tear of daily life without losing its luster. The balanced dimensions make it a joy to wear for just about anyone, and the dial—subtle from afar but mesmerizing up close—adds a layer of charm that keeps you hooked.

There are so many GMT watches to choose from. There are well-known models like the GMT-Master from Rolex and the Seamaster Planet Ocean from Omega, and there are some watches that are lesser known but still deserve just as much attention. 

For me, one of these collections is the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT. It’s a series of watches based upon the Japanese watchmaker’s “Grand Seiko Style” design language inspired by the original 44GS launched in 1967. 

But these aren’t old-school timepieces in any shape or form. They are brilliantly designed from a steel alloy that looks and wears better than standard stainless steel, plus they uniquely present their GMT complication on a dial that’s more complex than any other GMT watch I’ve seen. 

They’re also powered by an in-house high-frequency movement. And all this comes at a retail price of less than $8,000. Yes, that’s significantly more affordable than those by Rolex and Omega. 

But did the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT watch’s specs live up to the hype after being on the wrist for a week? I got hands-on with one to find out, specifically reference SBGJ267, a boutique edition with a beautiful navy blue dial.

A 2023 Upgrade

When it launched in 2023, the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT collection flew under the radar for a lot of collectors. 

Not because it wasn’t impressive, but merely because there were so many other incredible releases out at the time, including some by Grand Seiko themselves (I’m still not quite over the Grand Seiko Tentagraph). Plus, it was a subtle refresh to an already existing collection. But one that was needed. 

The 2023 Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT collection wasn’t about reinventing the wheel but about refining something classic. The family features five new references, each replacing an older model. 

For instance, the SBGH299 (time-and-date, silver dial) stepped in for the SBGH277, while the SBGJ263 GMT (silver dial) replaced the SBGJ201. There’s also the time-and-date SBGH301 (dark gray dial) to replace the lighter gray SBGH279 and the GMT SBGJ265 taking over the SBGJ203. 

There was also a stunning GMT boutique exclusive under reference SBGJ267. This one boasts a stunning blue dial and is the very model I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing this past week. 

The changes made, although subtle, suggested they’d make a big improvement to overall wearability. Grand Seiko tweaked the dials, cases, and bracelets to bring everything just a touch more up-to-date, keeping these watches feeling fresh while staying true to their roots. 

The dials, for example, now feature intricate textures inspired by Mt. Iwate, a breathtaking mountain near GS’s Shizukuishi Watch Studio. It’s a nod to their heritage and is truthfully a sight to behold.

But, the biggest change is the material used for the case and bracelet. Each Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT watch features the brand’s Ever Brilliant Steel. A material that’s tougher, more corrosion-resistant, and boasts a brighter, whiter finish than traditional stainless steel.

Ever Brilliant Steel vs Standard Steel

Before I get into the minute details of the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267, I want to first explain exactly what the difference is between Grand Seiko’s Ever Brilliant steel and the standard stainless steel used on most watches. Because, ultimately, it’s this material (among other things), that helps this watch stand out against its competition.

Ever Brilliant Steel isn’t just regular stainless steel, but an alloy that has a PREN (Pitting Resistance Equivalent Number) that’s 1.7 times higher than what you’ll find in the steel used for most luxury watches. Translation? It’s way better at standing up to things like rust and corrosion. While most watches are often made from 316L steel, Ever Brilliant Steel is known as 904L steel. 

Over time, normal stainless steel can start to lose its luster, especially if you’re wearing your watch in humid or salty environments. Meanwhile, Ever Brilliant Steel keeps looking fresh and shiny way longer. It’s also got this super bright, almost white finish that gives the watch an extra pop of elegance compared to the usual grayish tone of standard steel.

The Ever-Brilliant Steel Case

As I mentioned earlier, the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 draws its design inspiration from the original 44GS, a 1967 release that established the iconic “Grammar of Design”. 

This watch defined the sharp, clean aesthetic Grand Seiko is now famous for. The SBGJ267 case stays true to that legacy with a breathtaking mix of curves, angles, and flat surfaces to create a sleek, sophisticated presence on the wrist. 

Measuring 40mm in diameter and 14.4mm in height, the GMT model isn’t the slimmest, but there’s a good reason for that. The added thickness accommodates the intricate movement and GMT complication. There’s an added hand, after all, so the case needs to make room for that. Despite this, the watch doesn’t feel bulky, thanks to its well-balanced proportions and 50mm lug-to-lug length. It may struggle under a super-tight shirt cuff but will fit comfortably beneath most sleeves. 

The Ever-Brilliant Steel used for the case elevates the design even further. This proprietary alloy gives the watch an almost white, radiant finish that stands out from traditional stainless steel. It’s also highly resistant to corrosion, ensuring the case retains its pristine appearance for years. 

Then there’s the Zaratsu polishing, a hallmark of Grand Seiko craftsmanship. Achieving this flawless, mirror-like finish is no small feat since it takes artisans years to master the skill, which involves pressing the metal against a spinning tin plate. 

The result is a surface so reflective and distortion-free that you can practically use it as a mirror. While most of the cases are Zaratsu polished, carefully placed brushed sections add subtle contrast and emphasis to the angular architecture. 

The case of the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 also includes a screw-down crown at 3 o’clock, knurled and embossed with the GS logo, giving the watch a 100-meter water resistance. This allows the release to straddle the line between a dress watch and a sports watch. It could easily be worn as both. 

The double-domed sapphire crystal on top adds a vintage touch that nods to the 1960s 44GS while showcasing the dial beautifully. It features added anti-reflective coating for improved legibility and scratch resistance. 

Flip the Grand Seiko watch over, and you’ll find a screw-down case back with a sapphire window and a finely detailed beaded edge, drawing attention to the stunning movement inside.

The Intricate Navy Dial 

While I am undoubtedly impressed by the case of the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 watch, I could also stare at its dial for a lifetime. 

I’ve said it so many times at this point, but Grand Seiko are truly the masters of dial design. They are never short of inspiration from their home country, bringing to life their Japanese heritage through intricate and masterful textures and colors. 

For the SBGJ267, Grand Seiko uses their iconic Mt. Iwate pattern, inspired by the ridged surfaces of the mountain visible from their Shizukuishi Studio, where all their mechanical watches are born. 

The pattern is super fine and subtle, scattering out from the center in a sunburst effect. But it’s not just any ordinary sunburst dial, it’s more like the scatter of snow or rain. Its super fine, super detailed and super pretty. For me, Grand Seiko dials will always be better than Rolexes for this reason. 

This intricate texture also plays a huge part in the color of the dial. It mostly appears as a rich navy, but catch it in the right light, and it can shift to a lighter hue or even a deep, almost-black shade. It’s endlessly fascinating. 

The layout is a little different for Grand Seiko, too. Instead of the 24-hour GMT scale being on the dial’s inner section, it’s placed neatly on the rehaut, keeping the main dial clean and minimal. The rest of the hardware is classic Grand Seiko. There are razor-sharp dauphine-style hour and minute hands, brushed on top and polished along the edges. 

The hand-applied indices are equally stunning, faceted like tiny gemstones with a mix of brushed and polished finishes that catch the light beautifully. Like the case, all the hardware is hand-finished and made using diamond-tipped milling tools to create this exceptional shine and gleam.

Adding to the mix is the rose gold GMT hand, which pops against the blue dial while staying elegant and legible. At 3 o’clock, there’s a polished-framed date window with a crisp black-on-white date wheel. The rest of the dial keeps things balanced, with the Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock and movement info at 6 o’clock.

The Hi-Beat GMT Movement

The beating heart of the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 is the in-house Caliber 9S86. The movement is yet another highlight of this release, known as a high-frequency automatic winding caliber that beats at 5Hz or 36,000 vibrations per hour.

This means it has super high levels of accuracy and a buttery-smooth motion for the second hand. The movement also boasts a 55-hour power reserve and an accuracy rated at -3 to +5 seconds per day, a rating that beats even COSC certification. 

The Caliber 9S86 is also a traveler’s GMT movement, a complication that’s perfect for those who like to hop between timezones. 

Unlike “office” GMT watches, where the 24-hour hand is independently adjustable, the local hour hand here can be adjusted in one-hour increments—both forwards and backward—while the minute and GMT hands remain unaffected. 

This is a game-changer for frequent flyers since you just pop the crown into its second position, move the hour hand, and you’re set without messing up the minutes or the additional time zone displayed by the 24-hour hand. 

The movement is also beautiful to look at, visible through the watch’s sapphire case back. As with everything, Grand Seiko spares no effort in its finishing, with 37 jewels nestled into a movement adorned with intricate striping and polishing.

The Ever-Brilliant Bracelet

The bracelet on the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 is also beautiful, but it is the only part of the watch I have some criticism of. It’s crafted from the same Ever Brilliant Steel as the case, so it matches perfectly in both durability and shine. 

It also has a wonderful architecture featuring staggered links in alignment, size, and finish to create this amazing light play as it catches the light from every angle. The polished edges and rolled, beveled link edges give it a refined look, while the inner flanks of the links are polished. The rest of the bracelet is brushed. It’s a fantastic combination of sharp and smooth, elegant and rugged.

The clasp is a twin-trigger release, so it’s secure and doesn’t just pop open easily, which is a nice touch for peace of mind. The Grand Seiko logo is embossed on the outside in relief, adding a subtle but classy touch. 

There are half links at both ends, so you can get pretty close to perfect fit. Plus, the bracelet has screw links for easy adjustments, which is a relief for anyone who has had to deal with pin links before.

However, here’s the downside: there’s no micro-adjustment on the clasp. It’s a bit of a miss since micro-adjustment is such an important feature on metal bracelets. It would make fine-tuning the fit a lot easier, especially on warm days when your wrist might swell a bit. I do wish Grand Seiko would take the time to refine their metal bracelets this way, but that said, it’s not a deal-breaker for me. But it’s something to keep in mind if you’re a stickler for precision.

On the upside, the 19mm lug width, despite being a bit of an odd size, makes finding alternate straps possible, and you’ve got drilled lugs to make swapping them out easy. Plus, if this watch sounds a little large in its dimensions for you, I reckon placing it on a leather or textile strap would make it a lot more wearable.

On-Wrist Experience

The Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 wears beautifully on the wrist thanks to its well-proportioned 40mm diameter and lug-to-lug measurement of 50mm. It feels comfortable and secure, fitting a wide range of wrist sizes, from 6 inches to 7.5 inches. At 159 grams, it’s not too heavy, but there’s definitely some presence to it. It’s just the right amount of weight to feel substantial without being overly bulky.

The slightly thicker case might be a drawback for some, but part of this is put down to the domed sapphire crystal. It does mean it’s not ideal for sliding under formal shirt cuffs, so it would suit sportier wear better. 

Although, to be honest, I would still wear this for dressier occasions. I’d just make sure my shirt cuffs weren’t too tight. Simply put, the Grand Seiko SBGJ267 feels as beautiful as it looks.

Price & Availability

If you’re interested in purchasing the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 watch, there are a few things to keep in mind. 

For starters, this is a boutique-only edition, which means it’s only available at select Grand Seiko stores and authorized Grand Seiko retailers around the world. Thankfully, Exquisite Timepieces is one of the same. 

Brand new, the Grand Seiko SBGJ267 retails for $7,500, which is honestly really impressive for a GMT watch made from a luxury metal with a hand-crafted case and dial, full metal bracelet and an in-house high-frequency movement. 

I’m pretty sure there are no other GMT watches finished to this standard with this level of technology for a price even close to this. You might be able to find the model on the second-hand market, too, if you’re working with a smaller budget. A quick look online, and I saw a few pre-owned references for around $6,000.

Conclusion

In my opinion, the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 watch is one of the best GMT watches on the market, especially when you consider its price. There’s a level of precision, craftsmanship, and attention to detail here that’s hard to beat. 

It ticks every box for a fantastic GMT: precision, functionality, a healthy 55-hour power reserve, and a durable yet stunning case made from Ever-Brilliant Steel. If you asked me to choose between this and the Rolex GMT-Master, I’d pick the Grand Seiko every time.

Yes, the bracelet could be improved with some micro adjustment, but I’ll be honest: I’m too distracted by how incredible the dial looks even to notice. The Mt. Iwate pattern is nothing short of mesmerizing and I do have hope they’ll release this watch, or at least something similar, in some more non-traditional dial colors soon to spice things up further.

There’s a unique tranquility in being immersed in nature, surrounded by untouched landscapes brimming with life and beauty beyond human artistry. Occasionally, however, this natural splendor isn’t merely replicated but artfully represented—whether on a canvas or, in this case, on the dial of a watch. 

Grand Seiko’s designers have mastered the art of crafting some of the most stunningly detailed dials in the watch industry. 

Drawing inspiration from Japan’s natural beauty and rich cultural heritage, they capture the essence of lush forests, snowy mountains, serene rivers, and the changing seasons. These timeless dials reflect the breathtaking landscapes they witness throughout the year.

Our spotlight today is on the elegant Grand Seiko SBGJ263, a stunning homage to Mt. Iwate, the iconic mountain visible from the Grand Seiko studio in Shizukuishi. 

This GMT traveler’s watch exudes unique style and functionality, crafted from Ever-Brilliant steel for exceptional durability. Much like the mountain it honors, photographs cannot capture its full beauty—the SBGJ263 is a masterpiece best appreciated in person.

History

Grand Seiko has introduced numerous models featuring a variety of dial colors, but the “Mt. Iwate” pattern has captivated enthusiasts since its debut in 2006. With its intricate design and diverse colorways, this dial has built a devoted following. 

From the original white version to limited green editions exclusive to the Asian market, the Mt. Iwate dial has cemented itself as a cornerstone of the Grand Seiko collection.

The SBGJ263, introduced in 2023, succeeded the SBGH001 in 2019 as part of a broader Heritage Collection revamp. This model offers a modern interpretation of the iconic 44GS design, replacing four earlier models to refine and elevate the lineup. 

The 44GS case itself holds a significant place in Grand Seiko’s history, serving as a direct homage to one of the brand’s earliest and most celebrated case designs.

While the dial and case embody Grand Seiko’s philosophy and timeless elegance, the SBGJ263 “Mt. Iwate” exemplifies the brand’s ability to honor its heritage while evolving to create the ideal modern wristwatch. 

Case

As I previously mentioned, the SBGJ263 features the iconic 44GS case, a cornerstone of Grand Seiko’s design philosophy. Introduced in 1967, this case was crafted to reflect Japanese culture through its sharp edges, curved profile, and meticulous craftsmanship. 

With a screw-down crown and a flawlessly polished finish, Grand Seiko aimed to create more than just a watch—they sought to establish a philosophy where every timepiece would “sparkle with quality.”

The SBGJ263 boasts a 40mm case diameter, a 42.5mm lug-to-lug distance, and a 19mm lug width. Its 14mm thickness, attributed mainly to the dual-curved sapphire crystal protecting the dial, adds to its robust construction. Despite this thickness, the 44GS case design ensures a comfortable fit on the wrist, striking a balance between presence and wearability.

While the SBGJ263 shares its size and many other features with its predecessor, what sets it apart is the use of Grand Seiko’s Ever-Brilliant steel. This exceptional alloy is significantly more resistant to corrosion than regular stainless steel and boasts a stunning finish. 

Unlike anything seen in most other brands—even within Grand Seiko’s lineup—Ever-Brilliant steel exhibits a distinctive white hue. This unique tone is further enhanced by the famous Zaratsu polishing, giving the watch an unparalleled shine and presence.

The combination of the vintage-inspired 44GS case design and Ever-Brilliant steel makes the SBGJ263 one of the most captivating recent releases from Grand Seiko, in my opinion. 

With its see-through case back and 100 meters of water resistance, this timepiece is an excellent addition to any wardrobe. Whether dressed up or casual, this stunner offers remarkable versatility and timeless appeal.

Dial

A beautiful case is elevated in status and elegance when complemented by an equally stunning dial. Grand Seiko has built a reputation for creating delicately textured dials that pay homage to Japanese nature and culture, and the SBGJ263 “Mt. Iwate” is no different. 

The Grand Seiko Studio in Shizukuishi is surrounded by natural wonders that define Japan’s renowned beauty. The artisans at Grand Seiko pay homage to their homeland by reflecting its breathtaking landscapes in their meticulously crafted dials. 

With the SBGJ263, they chose to reimagine their iconic Mt. Iwate dial, a tribute to the majestic volcanic mountain that overlooks the Shizukuishi studio.

The SBGJ263 “Mt. Iwate” features a stunning white sunburst dial adorned with intricate textured lines radiating toward the center, reminiscent of the ridges of its namesake mountain. 

White dials are always captivating under shifting light, but this Mt. Iwate design takes it a step further. As the angle changes, the dial adopts a silvery tone, adding a dynamic and eye-catching dimension to its appearance. 

As a GMT, the SBGJ263 offers the ability to track a second time zone—an essential feature for frequent travelers. What sets this timepiece apart is its unique approach to presenting the 24-hour markers. 

Instead of placing them on an external bezel or painting them directly onto the dial, the inner rehaut serves as the second time zone tracker. With even numbers and markers for the odd hours, this design avoids cluttering the dial, adding a layer of sophistication and seamlessly integrating functionality into the watch’s aesthetic.

The sleek silver hour markers seamlessly complement the polished finish of the dauphine hands, creating a cohesive and refined design. 

The white dial, paired with polished baton indices, exudes an elegant brilliance that brings the watch to life, balancing timeless sophistication with contemporary charm. Adding a touch of vibrancy, the stunning blue GMT hand introduces just the right pop of color to complete the dial’s captivating aesthetic.

A date window, framed in silver, is positioned at the 3 o’clock marker, blending seamlessly with the dial’s design. The Grand Seiko logo, rendered in silver, sits prominently under the 12 o’clock position, accompanied by the brand name in black. 

Just above the 6 o’clock marker, the watch’s specifications are subtly displayed, noting that the SBGJ263 is an automatic GMT powered by the Hi-Beat movement. Adding a detail, the “GMT” lettering mirrors the blue hue of the GMT hand, enhancing the dial’s overall cohesive aesthetic.

Movement

Powering this timepiece is the Grand Seiko in-house Caliber 9S86, a movement that exemplifies the brand’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking. Featuring the Hi-Beat 36000 vibrations per hour and a GMT time correction function, it delivers both precision and functionality, making the SBGJ263 a testament to Grand Seiko’s technical mastery. 

The Hi-Beat 36000 is a remarkable technological breakthrough, representing decades of dedication and innovation. It took Grand Seiko nearly forty years to develop, test, and perfect this movement, solidifying its place as a pinnacle of horological achievement. 

The original Hi-Beat 36000, the Caliber 9S85, was recognized for its accurate precision and lack of staggered movements when rolling around the dial. 

While most standard mechanical watches operate at an average of 25,000 vibrations per hour, the 9S85 movement was engineered to perform at an impressive 36,000 oscillations per hour, giving rise to its “Hi-Beat 36000” moniker. This advanced mechanism provides exceptional accuracy, rated at +5 to -3 seconds per day, and boasts a robust power reserve of 55 hours. 

The standout upgrade in the Caliber 9S86 is its integrated GMT function, allowing you to track a second time zone with ease—a perfect feature for frequent travelers. 

By pulling the crown out one notch, you can adjust the hour hand independently without stopping the seconds hand, ensuring the Hi-Beat mechanism continues uninterrupted. This design not only preserves the movement’s precision but also adds convenience and efficiency for on-the-go adjustments.

Straps

The SBGJ263 is paired with a stunning Ever-Brilliant steel bracelet, showcasing the classic three-link design polished to perfection with Zaratsu finishing. For a tailored fit, the bracelet includes screwed half-links, though it lacks a micro-adjustment feature. 

Securing the bracelet is a sleek three-fold clasp, elegantly engraved with the GS logo, adding a touch of refinement to this already exceptional timepiece.

With its 19mm lug width, the SBGJ263 may not offer an extensive range of options for swapping out bracelets, but it shines on the right strap. 

If you find a suitable replacement, leather straps are an excellent choice. Whether you opt for classic black or a lighter shade of brown, the SBGJ263 stands out equally on leather as it does on its metal bracelet, offering versatility and elegance in every setting.

On-Wrist Experience

Whenever I get the opportunity to test a Grand Seiko, it inevitably becomes the centerpiece of my life during that time. It’s never just a watch—each model carries its own story and unique character. The SBGJ263 is no exception. 

Though I’ve worn 44GS-style cases before, with their snug fit thanks to sharp angles and curved edges, this model felt refreshingly new. Stepping outside into the sunlight, the Ever-Brilliant steel transforms the watch into a radiant masterpiece, gleaming in a way that sets it apart from anything I’ve worn before.

I had the pleasure of wearing the SBGJ263 daily at work and even to two weddings, and each time, this snow-white beauty became a conversation starter. 

While experimenting with different straps, my appreciation for this timepiece only grew. Its versatility is undeniable, though its thickness does make pairing it with tighter cuffs a bit challenging.

That said, the SBGJ263 is both comfortable and stylish, making it ideal for daily wear. Its versatility ensures it pairs well with various occasions, from casual to formal. The inner rehaut, serving as the GMT indicator, is a standout feature of this timepiece. 

Unlike most GMT watches with a rotating bezel, this minimalist design approach offers a refreshing take. While I do appreciate a classic rotating bezel, I found myself thoroughly enjoying the clean and sophisticated aesthetic the rehaut provides. 

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko SBGJ263 “Mt. Iwate” is available at a retail price of $7,500. Pre-owned options often range around $4,000, offering a more budget-friendly alternative. For those interested, this remarkable timepiece is currently available through Exquisite Timepieces.

Conclusion

If you’re in the market for a stunning GMT with a beautifully detailed dial, the SBGJ263 is an exceptional choice. This timepiece offers versatility, comfort, and durability thanks to its robust materials and reliable in-house movement. 

Like every watch in Grand Seiko’s Heritage Collection, the SBGJ263 is a tribute to the brand’s rich history, showcasing its commitment to crafting timeless pieces that genuinely shine with quality.