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The word jubilee means a special anniversary—a celebration. It is also related to the word jubilation, which means intense happiness or excitement. In the world of horology, catchy names are an important piece of the puzzle aimed at capturing the hearts and minds of both enthusiasts and casual buyers. 

Enter Rolex’s Jubilee bracelet, released in 1945 on the Datejust model, just in time for Rolex’s 40th anniversary. I tip my hat to Rolex for genius marketing and creative nomenclature.

Heritage and Wearability

Made up of a five-piece structure with semi-circular links, the jubilee bracelet offers a more comfortable, form-fitting wear, as well as a dressier overall look. The larger outer links are usually brushed, and the narrow inner links are polished, giving the jubilee bracelet an elegant appearance with eye-catching light play. 

However, we live in an age where nobody balks at somebody wearing a dive watch with a suit or somebody wearing a moonphase with jeans and a t-shirt. This is appropriate for what watch-wearing should be in the year 2023: an expression of self, free from the restraints and rules of society. 

In a world with looser requirements for corporate wear, we are seeing this transfer into other fashion areas: coats, shoes, hats, and accessories. It’s normal to see someone in a suit with a nice pair of sneakers on, and the same can be said for the wearing of watches. 

The jubilee is the most appropriate bracelet for a dress watch, period. It also wears nicely on the weekend with a pair of jeans. You’d be hard-pressed to find a more versatile bracelet, and we are seeing more and more watch manufacturers—Rolex included with their GMT Master II—release sports pieces on a jubilee bracelet. 

What are the downsides, then? 

For one, the jubilee bracelet is not as robust or durable as the traditional Oyster bracelets—created, again, by Rolex—that are associated with dive and sports watches everywhere. 

If I were going on a dive or an outdoor excursion, and I preferred a watch on a metal bracelet, I would opt for an Oyster bracelet every time. The jubilee bracelet also has a tendency to stretch over time, though this was more the case with older models using hollow links. 

Newer models shouldn’t stretch, as they are built with modern materials and manufacturing processes, but because there are more “parts” to these bracelets, it is possible that they will show more wear over decades of use. 

15 Watches on Jubilee Bracelets Worth Your Attention

1. Rolex Datejust 41 Mint Green (ref. 126334)

If ever a jubilee bracelet was to appropriately match a timepiece, I can think of none better than the Rolex Datejust 41 in Mint Green. Its 41mm size can be dressed up or down, with its svelte case easily being able to slip under a cuff. 

The fluted bezel is a delicious accompaniment to the polished inner links of the jubilee bracelet. Somehow, the lines and light play offer perfect harmony between case and bracelet—something often missing in watch design today. 

We all know that Rolex’s color is green, and the maison is on trend with the subdued greenish hue of its dial, ultimately creating a watch that evokes success and luxury, offering good value at its MSRP of $10,250.

2. Tudor Black Bay 39 (ref. M79660-0002)

Tudor has been one of the hottest watch brands of the last decade, with brand ambassadors such as David Beckham and Lady Gaga. The new Tudor Black Bay 39 is a GADA watch (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) that checks many enthusiast boxes. It is the perfect size for the majority of wrists, at 39mm. 

It has a new in-house COSC-certified movement (MT5602). It also has one of the best jubilee bracelets I’ve ever felt, with the new “T-fit” clasp that gives a superior level of micro-adjustment. The reference here is the blue dial version, but Tudor offers a variety of dial options.

I’ve tried these on in-store, and it was tempting not to throw my plastic on the counter for the champagne-dialed version. At $3950, this timepiece punches well above its weight!

3. Zodiac Super Sea Wolf 53 (ref. ZO9287)

Zodiac is a brand with tons of heritage. Acquired by the mighty Fossil Group in 2001, they’ve since gone on to offer outstanding designs that pay homage to their rich lineage. Zodiac is best known for their dive watches, releasing their first dive watch in 1953—the same year that Rolex released their Submariner and Blancpain released their Fifty Fathoms. 

They are also well known for their beautiful and funky colors. I can attest to the quality of the Super Sea Wolf 53 as an owner of one. The jubilee bracelet exudes quality, with a unique clasp that expands and contracts with your wrist. With an MSRP of $1595, this watch can be considered a bargain when compared to other offerings in its price bracket. 

4. Seiko SKX007

The discontinued SKX007 makes this list because when it was originally released in 1996, it quickly became the benchmark for all dive watches under $1000—this with an original MSRP of under $200. A no-nonsense, do-anything dive watch, it wears smaller than its 42mm case suggests. 

Something about the design just feels right; it doesn’t feel like it is copying any other brand but rather establishing its own unique footprint in the annals of watch design. The SKX007s are getting harder and harder to find, with unworn models approaching the $1000 mark. These timepieces have become collector’s items in the horological community, so if you have an opportunity to acquire one at a reasonable price, I’d say pull the trigger! 

5. Raymond Weil Freelancer Diver Geneva (ref. 2760-ST1-GVA01)

Another watch on this list that I own, though admittedly an older model on a rubber strap, there is a whole lot to like about the Raymond Weil Freelancer Diver Geneva. I absolutely love Raymond Weil as a company, one of the only independently owned major market Swiss Watch brands that still exist. 

This brand, for me, is a gateway into luxury watchmaking. For most people, spending several hundred dollars on a watch can feel like a luxury, but you don’t really comprehend the next “tier” until you hold a higher-quality timepiece in your hand.

The first time I held a Raymond Weil, I realized that it was something special, built to last and be passed down to the next generation. At 42mm, the 300m dive watch is purpose-built and ready to tackle anything from the boardroom to the depths of the Atlantic. At $2150, this robust dive watch will not seriously dent your wallet. 

6. Rolex GMT Master II “Pepsi” (ref. 126710BLRO)

There are four Rolex watches on this list for a reason: not only did they create the Jubilee bracelet, but they epitomize luxury watches for the vast majority of consumers. What can I say about the Pepsi? It’s highly coveted, it’s a damn good watch, and the Jubilee bracelet looks magnificent on it.

At 40mm, the GMT Master II is the perfect compromise of wrist presence and comfort. Moreover, the GMT function makes it ideal for traveling, especially if going to a different time zone. Rolex is synonymous with luxury and quality, and it is evident that the $10,900 GMT Master II cuts no corners.

7. Steinhart Ocean 39 GMT Chocolate (ref. 103-1218)

You may be thinking to yourself, a brown watch? No thank you! But then you see it—the decedent brown dial, the two-tone jubilee bracelet, gold plated at the center with accents on the bezel and crown. 

For around $700, the Steinhart Ocean 39 GMT Chocolate is all-class. Putting one on reminded me, coincidentally, of unwrapping the fine gold foil of an expensive Swiss chocolate. Beyond looks, the functionality of the 39mm watch offers 300m of water resistance and a GMT function. 

Like all Steinharts, the Ocean 39 GMT offers enormous value and style. Whether you are a seasoned collector, or dipping your toes into the waters of Swiss watches for the first time, Steinhart is a brand always worth considering. 

8. Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK001

The evolution of the aforementioned SKX, the new Seiko 5 Sports GMT is an ode to the design language that millions of loyal customers have purchased over the years. It’s a handsome watch, and one with high functionality with Seiko’s new 4R34 movement that will, no doubt, grace hundreds of new microbrand releases over the next decade. 

That’s what Seiko does: they set trends and offer the benchmark for everyone else to follow. They’ve hit a homerun with SSK001, and at $475, this Seiko is a purchase that will give you countless smiles without placing a huge burden on your wallet. 

9. Rolex Sky-Dweller Bright Blue (ref. 336934)

The Sky-Dweller is the most mechanically complicated Rolex. It also offers a fresh deviation from the standard-fare Mercedes hands that are so typical to the brand. It has a fluted bezel that is complementary to its high quality jubilee bracelet. Pictures don’t do the richness of the blue dial justice. 

If you can see one in the flesh, do it, because you will quickly come to realize why these are so highly sought-after. It also has great wrist presence at 42mm, which helps offer more real estate for the complications: dual time zone and annual calendar.

This is a watch that you can set and forget, and it will keep the proper date, even in a different timezone, all year long. It won’t come cheap, however, with an MSRP of $15,650, but if you are in the market for a high end watch, the Rolex Sky Dweller Bright Blue is certainly worth your consideration.

10. Tudor Black Bay (ref. M7941A1A0RU-0003)

I remember when I became obsessed with Tudor, as a brand. I was 22 years old, fresh out of college and unemployed, and about a million miles away from having the means to purchase a luxury watch. 

In 2012, Tudor released its Black Bay collection, a collection that would go on to define the brand as we know it today. The collection was originally headlined by the Black Bay 41, Burgundy. It had a gilt dial and rich burgundy bezel. It was originally powered by an ETA movement, which was good for 38 hours of power reserve. 

In the decade since its release, Tudor has maintained much of what made the original watch aesthetically beautiful, enhancing it now with a jubilee bracelet and new, in-house movement with a 70-hour power reserve, COSC certification, and powerful antimagnetic properties. With an MSRP of $4450, the Tudor Black Bay remains within reach for seasoned and first time buyers alike.

11. Davosa Ternos Professional GMT Automatic (ref. 161.571.05)

With a history of watchmaking that spans over 150 years, the “official” brand did not establish itself as Davosa until 1993. The Ternos Professional GMT is a serious watch with a solid reputation. Yes, many of their watches appear to be homages of offerings by Rolex, but that doesn’t take away from their quality. 

Rolex built a blueprint that many follow today—Davosa included. It looks especially handsome on the jubilee bracelet, though they can also be purchased on an oyster style bracelet. At 42mm, with 200m of water resistance, this watch offers startlingly good quality for its price of $1299.

12. Rolex GMT Master II “Batgirl” (ref. 126710BLNR)

Yes, yes—you’re probably as bored of reading about Rolex as I am with writing about them. But they do deserve repeated mention in an article that highlights the Jubilee bracelet. The GMT Master II “Batgirl” is identical to the “Pepsi” but for two distinct differences. 

The Batgirl’s hand is blue instead of red, and its bezel is black and blue, as opposed to blue and red. I think this makes a more subdued and professional looking watch that blends better with a variety of clothes, but that’s just me. It too is offered at an MSRP of $10,900—that is if you can get one without waiting a few years! 

13. Raymond Weil Freelancer Open Aperture Green Dial (ref. 2780-ST-52001)

With a visible balance wheel, a ‘Clous de Paris’ inner dial pattern, and dark green hue, the Raymond Weil Freelancer Open Aperture Green Dial is eye-catching and objectively beautiful. There is just so much dial presence here, and Raymond Weil was right on the money with making this a 42.5mm watch. 

This is not a dial to hide, to slip under the sleeve, to keep away from the admiring eyes of bystanders. Rather, this is a dial that shouts confidence, construction, and creativity. At $2375, the Freelancer Open Aperture offers enormously dynamic horology at a very reasonable price. Did I mention how great the quality of its jubilee bracelet is? Go try one on and see for yourself.

14. SMITHS PRS25 Everest Jubilee

Winning the honor of purchasing a SMITHS watch at MSRP (around $430 here) is akin to winning the lottery. No–really. One must do the following if they hope to acquire a SMITHS watch at retail price. Sign up for the newsletter. Pray that the sliver of time they open the Smiths online shop coincides with your schedule.

Be really quick with your mouse or smartphone. A little bit of fairy dust and a magic lamp might help as well. If you can get a SMITHS watch—any SMITHS watch really—do it.

For the price, they offer absurd value. The PRS25 Everest Jubilee comes with a breathtaking aventurine dial that is reminiscent of the night’s sky. With a Miyota 9 series movement, and a compact 36mm size, this watch both honors its heritage while offering modern mechanical timekeeping.

15. Lorier Astra 

Both a dress and sports watch, the Lorier Astra, arguably, offers the one of the best bangs for the buck on this entire list. Since entering the market in 2018, Lorier has established a reputation for superior bracelets, construction, and design. The Astra has a jubilee bracelet that is completely brushed, giving it a very durable finish. 

At 36mm and with a lug-to-lug of 44mm, the Astra will fit even the smallest of wrists. The bracelet also has screwed links, as opposed to the pin and collar system that is pretty typical in this price range. With a Miyota 9 series movement and an MSRP of $499, you can do a lot worse with watches, even double this price point.

Conclusion

All in all, the jubilee is a unique type of bracelet that’s appropriate for both casual and formal attire. While it was introduced and made popular by Rolex, you can still find a few brands that utilize it in some of their watches. Or, you can just go with the original from the Crown. Either way, if you choose to go with one, you’ll definitely like its comfort and style!

The idea of hand-winding your watch is even more romantic than that of an automatic watch. You’re breathing life into an inanimate object and then depending on it to keep you on time. In modern times you mostly see these types of movements in dress watches, as tool and sports watches have all migrated to automatic movements. 

That said, there are still a few gems on the market for you to buy in 2023. Some are from higher horology brands, whereas others could be the perfect first watch for you to invest in. Whatever the case may be, if the movement inside is a hand-wound movement, you’re bound to have a great relationship with your timepiece. 

About Hand-Wound Watches

As the name would suggest, these watches are not powered by a self-winding movement or a quartz system but rather with hand-winding. Both automatic and hand-wound watches are mechanical watches; however, they are vastly different from one another. 

The biggest difference between the two comes from (unsurprisingly) where the power originates from. Self-winding movements have a rotor attached that spins as you move. This kinetic energy is then converted into potential energy as the rotor winds up the mainspring. 

Unlike a self-winding movement, a manual-wound movement does not need a rotor. The winding will come from the wearer turning the crown of the watch, turning that energy into the potential energy stored in the mainspring. 

We mentioned that you mostly see hand-winding movements within dress watches, and there’s a very good reason for that. Because these movements lack the rotor, they tend to be thinner, which is desirable in a dress watch meant to slip under the cuff of a shirt or jacket. A rotor is also weighted, making the timepiece more cumbersome – again, not incredibly ‘dressy’. 

The drawback of a hand-winding movement is that you need to wind it. For some, this is a selling point, and for others, this is a red flag. Depending on the watch’s inner workings and the power reserve, you might be winding that crown for a while. Again, some find this tedious, while others enjoy it. It also has to be mentioned that shoddy quality around the seal of the crown could wear over time in a hand-wound watch. 

History of Hand-Wound Watches

Until the quartz revolution of the 1970s, all watches were mechanical. Mechanical watches are powered by the mainspring, as mentioned. 

It’s not 100% clear which watch was the ‘first’ wristwatch, but most believe it was made by Patek Philippe for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary in 1868. Others believe the first wristwatch was made by Abraham-Louis Breguet for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810.

But even way before this, men wore pocket watches, and prior to this, the only portable timekeeping devices were clock-watches. The name may sound like an odd combination of two different words because it is. 

Developed in the 16th century in the German cities of Nuremberg and Augsburg, these devices were worn on the body or around the neck rather than on the wrist. They only had an hour indication and didn’t even feature a glass but rather a brass cover (usually). Even though these devices were manually wound twice a day, they were incredibly inaccurate; some were hours off each day. 

Pocket watches took over soon after, and eventually, wristwatches replaced them, mostly worn by women because men still had pocket watches. In World War I, this changed as soldiers wore wristwatches for added maneuverability and ease of use. 

The first self-winding movement was made in 1923 by John Harwood, and eventually, self-winding movements replaced manually-wound movements. That said, manual movements are still found in various watches today, as you’ll see on the following list. 

The 15 Best Hand-Wound Watches You Can Buy in 2023

1. Timex Marlin Hand-Wound (ref. TW2R47900)

Many revere this watch to be one of the best entry-level watches on the market. The Marlin is a watch that is completely at ease with itself; humble, if you will. The Marlin is actually a reissue of the brand’s 1960s Marlin. A true dress piece through and through, it features only three hands with an uncomplicated dial. 

The 34mm case will certainly please those with smaller wrists, and a domed glass lens offers a bit of uniqueness for the price point and a subtle throwback to the 60s design language. Behind the highly legible silver dial is the manual wound movement (not specified by Timex), but has a 40-hour power reserve. 

2. Seagull 1963 Hand Wind Mechanical Chronograph (ref. 6345G-2901)

Finding a mechanical chronograph will lead you to learn that this complication comes at a price. Seagull, a Chinese watch brand, aims to correct that notion. Powered by the hand-wound No. ST21 mechanical, the Seagull is (perhaps) the most cost-effective way of getting your hands on a mechanical chronograph. 

The cream dial is matched with blue and red hands and an olive green NATO strap to create a vintage allure to the watch. The value of this timepiece is elevated even more when you notice the exhibition case back. The only downside is that servicing this timepiece might actually be more expensive than just replacing it. 

3. Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical (ref. H69439931)

Hamilton is the entry-level Swiss company, especially if your taste veers towards field and pilot watches. The Khaki Field Mechanical is a giant in their lineup and comes in numerous editions and versions. 

The ref. H69439931 is a modestly priced 38mm steel field watch matched with a khaki NATO strap and a brushed finish. Taking inspiration from the original 1960s model, the Khaki Field features a ‘Type B’ dial used by pilots in WWI and WWII. This dial configuration comes in three colors, white, black, and dark brown. 

The Hamilton caliber H-50 is based on the ETA 2801-2 and is equipped with an 80-hour power reserve. The Khaki Field is loved by many, and you’ll often see it sharing a watchcase with big hitters like Pateks and Rolexes. 

4. Junghans Max Bill Hand-Wound (ref. 27/3702.02)

If you google ‘Bauhaus Design’, you are greeted with perhaps the perfect description of Junghans’s design language, “Abstract, angular, and geometric, with little ornamentation”. Based in Germany, Junghans takes this popular design and makes it their own. 

The Max Bill is a 34mm dress watch that only measures 9mm in height, most of which comes from the domed crystal. The polished black dial features a minute track and hands that are covered with an environmentally friendly luminous substance.  

To keep costs down, the Junghans caliber J805.1 is based on the hand-wound ETA 2801-2 and is equipped with a 42-hour power reserve. Overall, the Max Bill is a classic design but still different enough to make you smile whenever you look at your wrist. 

5. NOMOS Club Campus 38 Night (ref. 736)

Sticking with both Germany and the Bauhaus design, we have the NOMOS Club Campus 38. The first thing you notice about the timepiece is the California dial with Arabic numerals on top and Roman numerals at the 4 and 8 o’clock positions. 

The Campus line was initially introduced for a younger wearer with quirky design features combined with a sporty feel at a reasonable price. This everyday option from NOMOS is perfectly sized at 38.5mm in diameter and measures 8.5mm in height. The utility is emphasized by adding a 100m water resistance rating, something rare for a watch this thin. 

The small seconds hand offers a pop of color in contrast to the all-black dial, while the hour markers and rhodium-plated hands are all filled with luminous material – in fact, it’s one of the most legible dials for the price point when the room goes dark. The movement powering the watch is the NOMOS Alpha Manual and features a 43-hour power reserve. 

6. Longines Watch Heritage Military 1938 Limited Edition (ref.  L2.826.4.53.2)

The Longines logo is the oldest logo in the watch industry, which hints at some of the watches they produce. Their ‘Heritage’ range is a must-have for those that like a vintage look combined with modern technology. The Military 1983 Limited Edition was limited to only 1983 pieces that pay tribute to the watchmaking spirit of Longines. 

The highly legible matte black dial features large Arabic numeral hour markers along with a small seconds sub-register located at the 6 o’clock position, a railway track chapter ring, and a thinner onion crown. The vintage aesthetic of the dial is purposely designed to look identical to the original 1983, hence the ‘aged’ lume. 

The Longines caliber L507.2 is their adaptation of the ETA 6498-1 (or ETA Unitas) hand-winding movement that features a 46-hour power reserve. 

7. Oris Pro Pilot X Calibre 115 (ref. 01 115 7759 7153-Set7 22 01TLC)

Oris is one of the last independent Swiss watchmakers, and it shows in their ability to be daring in design but also to listen to their fans. Branching away from the brilliant Oris Aquis, we have the Pro Pilot X Calibre, a titanium equipped with a fully skeletonized in-house movement – the Caiber 115. 

While the design of this watch is undoubtedly something special, so is the beating heart within. A massive 10-day power reserve (240 hours) comes courtesy of the hand-wound movement; in fact, you can see the mainspring positioned perfectly at the 12 o’clock position. 

The visually striking dial is matched with a gorgeous integrated bracelet and knurled bezel, the latter of which is meant to evoke the turbine blades of a jet engine.

8. Omega De Ville Trésor Master Chronometer Small Seconds (ref. 435.13.40.21.03.002)

Omega is known for its sport and dive models, but its De Ville range has been the centerpiece of its dress range for decades. The 40mm polished steel case is matched with a striking blue domed dial that features a small seconds sub-register at the 6 o’clock position. Timekeeping duties are dealt with by 18K white gold hands and domed indexes. 

Ticking within the Trésor is the Omega Caliber 8926. As with most modern Omega movements, it is refined and brimming with technology. Turn the case to reveal the emblematic Geneva waves, but beauty is matched with COSC specification as well as a Master Chronometer Certification. The 72-hour power reserve is matched with resistance to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss. 

This particular model does come in different variations. A steel case, white dial, and a diamond set bezel. A yellow gold version featuring a green dial and the Omega caliber 8927. A Sedna™ gold red dial variation that also features the Omega caliber 8927. And lastly, a grey dial steel version with the Omega caliber 8926. 

9. Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK007

Grand Seiko is much more than the luxury segment of the most famous Japanese watch brand, Seiko. They are known for combining exemplary finishing methods with similar attention to detail with their movements – the ref. SBGK007 is no different but with an under-the-radar or stealth-wealth personality. 

The clean white dial is a rather simple design with two sub-registers, a power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock, and a small seconds at 9 o’clock. The dial actually features slopes toward the edges meant to amplify the 11.6mm thinness of the case. 

As always with Grand Seiko, the movement within is something special. The manually wound caliber 9S63 is equipped with a 3-day power reserve but is also rated at +5 to -3 seconds per day for accuracy. This might be one of the entry-level options from Grand Seiko, but it’s certainly a ‘sleeper’ if you will. 

10. Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate Manual-Wind Watch (ref. 6606 1127 55B)

Blancpain is the oldest surviving watchmaking brand and has a devoted following. Best known for its dive watches but the Ultraplate takes a far more dressy approach. It’s part of the ‘Villeret’ line, which is ‘the most classic collection’ from Blancpain. 

An ultra-slim case of merely 8.55mm is matched with a striking white dial and silver hands, and Roman numeral hour markers. The manual caliber 11C5 features a pretty impressive 100-hour power reserve and not only powers the hour and minute hands but also displays small seconds as well as a power reserve. 

There are various variations available in this model line, but this particular reference is the true embodiment of a timeless dress watch. 

11. Glashütte Original PanoReserve (ref. 1-65-01-26-12-61)

Glashütte Original or GO is widely respected in the horology world, especially by those fond of Germany’s approach to watch design. The galvanic blue dial features three separate complications thanks to the caliber 65-01. 

The dial features a panoramic date window, a power reserve, small seconds dial, and, of course, a time display. The sub-registers feature a vinyl-type finish and, when combined with a combination of hour batons and numeral markers, create visual interest and a sense of contrast.

The 40mm polished steel case is certainly sized for contemporary tastes and is matched with a blue Louisiana Alligator leather strap. Turn the case over to reveal the aforementioned caliber featuring typical GO finishes like the three-quarter plate with a striped finish. You will also find the double swan-neck fine adjustment, which is synonymous with the brand. 

12. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface (ref. Q3958420)

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is one of the most well-known and loved watches in the industry. The Duoface ref. Q3958420 ventures away from the sporty origin of the Reverso and exudes a luxurious appeal. 

The grained outer dial is contrasted with a smooth inner dial and features alpha hands and a night-day indicator. But as the name hints at, reversing or ‘flipping’ the case reveals a second dial. This white dial is beautifully contrasted with blue hour markers and hands. At the 6 o’clock position, you’ll find a radial date function surrounding a moonphase indicator. 

No one does Art Deco quite like JLC does. But, they are also known as ‘the watchmaker’s watchmaker’ because JLC has made movements for various heavy hitters like Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Panerai, and IWC. The movement within the Duoface is the manual caliber 853/A introduced in 2016 and features a 42-hour power reserve. 

13. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton (ref. 103126)

Bulgari is known as a Swiss watch company with Italian design inspiration. The Octo Finissimo is widely known as one of the thinnest automatic watches you can get your hands on. Originally launched in 2012, the Octo Finissimo line has become the centerpiece of the Bulgari catalog. 

This particular model is not only extremely thin at 5.50mm but is completely finished in ceramic, a case material that is unbelievably hard to produce but does offer immense resistance to scratches. While the ceramic case and bracelet might be intriguing, your attention is immediately drawn to the skeletonized dial. 

Certainly not made for legibility but rather for aesthetics. The caliber BVL 128SK is on display with an expert brush finish and is based on the Bulgari BVL 128. The manual in-house caliber is extra thin (2.35mm) and features a 65-hour power reserve. 

14. H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Small Seconds Purity

H. Moser & Cie is perhaps not the most-known watch company on the planet but certainly deserves recognition. Their minimalist approach to design is certainly not everyone’s cup of tea, but their attention to detail is certainly admirable.

The Venturer Small Seconds Purity was presented at SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) in two variations, a blue fumé dial white gold version, and the version referenced here, a red gold with a smokey fumé dial. 

The dial is actually domed and is matched with a thin bezel, allowing for a massive dial profile. With the fumé effect and the crystal, it creates a mirror-like finish, something you won’t see every day. The only other features on the dial are gold hour markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions and a recessed sub-register.

The movement within is the Moser caliber HMC 327, a hand-wound movement equipped with a 72-hour power reserve. In fact, the movement is visible through the sapphire caseback, finished with stripes on the plates and bridges, and features a power reserve indicator above the balance wheel.   

15. Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes De Vache 1955 (ref. 5000H/000A-B582)

Known as the ‘underdog’ of the Swiss Holy Trinity, Vacheron Constantin is known for legendary timepieces like the 222 and the Overseas. The model presented here is certainly not a sports model but does feature a sporty feature, a chronograph function. 

As the name suggests, this watch pays tribute to another and is based on reference 6087 from 1955; the ‘cow horn’ lugs are a direct inspiration from the ref. 6087. The chronograph function is amplified with the addition of a painted tachymeter scale, allowing the wearer to measure the speed of an object.

The dial is actually finished in a combination of Copper and Zinc, allowing for a striking ‘grey velvet-finished opaline’ color. The blued steel chronograph hand offers great contrast and a burst of color. 

Flip the 38.5mm polished steel case to reveal the beautifully finished caliber 1142, which is based on the hand-wound Lemania 2310 and is finished with the Côtes de Genève as well as the Geneva seal. 

Conclusion

While the hand-winding movement is perhaps not what everyone prefers, there is still a romantic aspect when you imagine ‘breathing life’ into an intimate object. These are usually only found within dress watches, but as this list proved with the Seagull and Hamilton, they can also be found in sporty and field watches. 

If you prefer to be even more connected with your timepiece, then you may be on the market for a manually wound watch. Just make sure to remove the watch from your wrist before you start winding; the angle might be bad for the crown… 

There are many different attributes that hook people into our niche hobby of watch collecting. Some people are attracted to the design, others hold onto the status, while some are enamored by the history and stories these little machines can tell.

I find myself leaning most heavily into the history and stories aspect. Early in my watch-collecting journey, I found myself fascinated by the nicks and scratches of every pre-owned piece I acquired. Like so many in this hobby, my limited budget and historical fascination quickly led me into the rabbit hole, or better yet, minefield, of vintage watches.

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What To Look Out For When Shopping For Vintage Watches

The world of vintage watch collecting is not for the faint of heart. There are more horror stories than there are success stories at this point. Despite this inherent risk, the rewards can be almost unmatched.

Before we dive right into vintage watch collecting, let’s look at a few simple guidelines I’ve unfortunately had to learn the hard way. There is no way to be 100% protected, but these guidelines will help keep you out of trouble for the most part.

Do Your Research

First, research is everything. I know it’s fun to look through hundreds of ads on our favorite internet auction site (especially after a couple of drinks), but this is not where you’re journey with vintage watches should begin. You need to start with a brand, a model, and a year range. From there, dive into the nuances of the model and what characteristics are period correct.

Depending on how widespread the model is, this research can take quite a long time. If you look at this research as just a barrier you must overcome before pulling the trigger on whatever “deal” you found online, you will probably get burned. The research IS the journey of vintage watch collecting; purchasing one is just the trophy.

Cheap Does Not Equal Good

The next guideline for me is to not be so damn cheap! Like many of you, I am inherently cheap and will spend months searching for the most reasonable prices. However, vintage watches are different. 99 out of 100 times, the lowest price is not the “best” price. There are so many factors that can impact the price of a vintage watch, and without fully understanding why a price is low, you are more likely than not going to regret this “great deal”.

Condition Is Key

Often closely tied to price, condition and originality are the most important things to look for in a vintage watch. Do not settle on a watch with a damaged dial! Do not purchase the watch replaced hands! Do not save a few dollars for the timepiece with an over-polished case!

These watches will usually save you money, but they are not worth the time and energy you put into the research. You should always buy the most pristine watch that fits your budget. If your budget only allows you to scrape the bottom of the barrel, you need to increase your budget or pick a new watch!

Buy The Seller, Not The Watch

The final guideline is to trust the seller of the timepiece. We hear about buying the seller, not the watch, over and over in this hobby. The importance of this message cannot be overlooked when looking at vintage timepieces. There are plenty of vintage watch sellers that have great reputations with whom you should stick.

Once you get very familiar with a particular model and have handled more than a handful, you might be ready to venture into the world of searching for “farm-fresh” examples. They are out there, but remember, even the most experienced experts get fooled from time to time. If you’re unwilling to do the research necessary to become an expert, you need to pay the extra money for someone that is.

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The Present-Day Vintage Watch Market

For watch collectors just joining the hobby, vintage watches are less attainable than they previously were. Rolex and Omega are priced near the MSRP of current models, if not more, and other Swiss brands are close behind. It is no wonder, when looking at how to maximize your horological dollar in the world of vintage watches, many people turn to Japan. Few brands can match the history and number of iconic model lines as enthusiast favorite Seiko.

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What About Seiko Vintage Watches?

Seiko is, and always has been, a brand for the people. They produce high quantities of well-built timepieces, focusing on practicality and functionality. Thankfully, for us aspiring vintage collectors, the philosophy of increased production and quality has been the brand’s mainstay, yielding two incredible benefits.

First, there is no shortage of vintage Seiko watches. With the exception of a few rare pieces, there are several examples of most vintage Seiko watches, many of which look and run great to this day. The second benefit is more a consequence of the first. Because of the large number of watches available, prices are very reasonable for what you get. There is no other brand that can provide the variety, quality, availability, and price of vintage watches that Seiko can.

There are beautiful vintage Seiko watches available at any price, and we will look at 20 great examples. These will be listed in ascending order, and because there is no MSRP for vintage watches, I will provide a range of prices that reflects the market as of December 2022. The vintage watch market changes rapidly, but if you are patient and follow the general guidelines, you can get a great Seiko watch that is sure to satisfy your vintage craving.

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Vintage Seiko Watches Under $200

Seiko 5 7009 Series ($50-$150)

There is no better place to start this list than the almighty Seiko 5. Known for 5 design principles: 4 O’clock crown, Diashock shock protection, Day/Date complication, automatic winding, and water resistance. If these were called Seiko 6, the sixth principle would certainly be affordability! To this day, the Seiko 5 represents a great entry point into the brand’s mechanical timepieces.

The 7009 series features modest case sizes and a multitude of dial options. This watch series has almost limitless combinations and can be found for between $50-$150. There are too many options to research thoroughly, but you could pick up a few, given the price.

Seiko 5 ACTUS 7019 Series($100-$300)

Like many of the budget-friendly options on our list, our next option falls under the umbrella of the Seiko 5. The 7019 Seiko 5 ACTUS is a more stylized version of the standard Seiko 5. The more modernized case sizes result in a slightly higher value on the secondary market of roughly $100-$300. These watches will be another no-frills option, but if you are interested in a slightly more modern design, the 5 Actus might be for you.

Seiko Sportsmatic 7625 Series ($150-$400)

The 7625 Sportsmatic is a step up when compared to the Seiko 5 models I have previously mentioned. The sports aesthetic lends itself nicely to a go-anywhere-do-anything watch, and the increased case size of 38mm will be a welcomed addition to anyone looking for a more modernly sized vintage watch.

These watches do fetch a slight premium for certain dials, but a basic model can be found for $150-$400. If you have a preference for a larger watch or a sportier aesthetic, the Sportsmatic is the perfect budget-friendly option.

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Vintage Seiko Watches Under $500

Seiko Seikomatic 6206 Series ($150-$400)

The Seikomatic is another mid-range offering in the Seiko vintage market, offering a robust 6206 movement and 36mm case. What really helps this model line stick out is the unique day placement at 6 O’clock. It helps give this ordinary watch some personality.

Combine that with the fact that this watch features a Kanji-day disk, and this watch provides an entirely different feel from a comparable Tissot or Hamilton from the time. This case shape also features a seamless crown design, in which the crown pushes flush into the case. Coming in at roughly $150-$400, the style isn’t the only thing giving the Swiss a run for their money!

Seiko Diver 7002 Series ($250-$400)

The 7002 series diver is the predecessor to the famous SKX. The signature 42mm case shape is there with a slightly reduced 150 meters of water resistance which I wouldn’t recommend putting to the test, given its age.

This watch is often the victim of the mod community due to its lower price point, which has resulted in original examples increasing in price. A good condition and original 7002 diver will set you back roughly $250-$400, but for a vintage dive watch with real history, there are few examples, even at double or triple this price.

Seiko Bell-matic 4006 Series ($300-$500)

One often overlooked complication in the world of vintage watches is that of the alarm. Though some Swiss examples can set you back thousands, the Seiko Bell-matic will run you about $300-$500. This model comes in various dial colors and case shapes, but the 27 jewel 4006 movement is the true star. If you’re looking for a unique complication that you’re not going to find on many wrists, the Seiko Bell-matic is a great option.

Seiko Lord Marvel 5740 Series ($300-$500)

If you are searching for a classically designed dress watch from Seiko that shares many design elements with the Swiss, look no further than the Lord Marvel. This watch features many quality movements seen in King Seiko models, but they are housed in a simpler case style.

These watches also feature 36000 BPH Hi-Beat movements allowing the Lord Marvel to not only look like a Swiss timepiece of the era but also outperform it mechanically. The Lord Marvel can be had for roughly $300-$500. If you are looking for something a little simpler but with some mechanical innovation, the Lord Marvel is a great place to start.

King Seiko 5625 Series ($400-600)

Grand Seiko is often attributed with much of the credit for establishing the Japanese, and Seiko, in particular, as a horological powerhouse. The lesser-known faction of Seiko, known as King Seiko, was pumping out equally-stunning watches and helping to motivate Grand Seiko to achieve the great results they were able to.

King Seiko watches are less highly sought after than Grand Seiko by the mainstream collector, but that is quickly changing. Despite this rise in popularity, these watches can still be found for roughly $400-$600. The 5625 King Seiko features a Hi-Beat movement, much like the Lord Marvel, but housed in a more distinct Seiko case shape. If you want a Grand Seiko, but your budget simply won’t allow it, these King Seikos really are the next best thing.

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Vintage Seiko Watches Under $1000

Seiko Yachtsman UFO Chronograph 6138-0011 Series ($700-$1100)

The UFO Chronograph features a noticeably different vintage design. This watch comes with a distinct saucer shape case at 44mm, which spawned its affectionate nickname as the UFO. The 6138 Chronograph movement is often overlooked in the history of automatic chronographs.

Coming in at a price of roughly $700-$1100, depending on condition, this is a great entry point into the world of vintage chronographs. If you are looking for a complicated vintage watch that will stand out from the rest, only a few options will do so better than the UFO.

Seiko Rally Diver 6106 Series (700-$1100)

There are few styles of watches that are as distinctly Seiko as a Rally Diver. The checkered bezel, even making a comeback with the current Rowing Blazers Limited Edition, is a trademark of Vintage Seiko.

Many of these examples fall underneath the budget-friendly Seiko 5 line, but given the uniqueness of this timepiece, there is an aesthetic premium added to this one. Coming in at roughly $700-$1100, the Rally Diver from Seiko gives you an opportunity to wear something a little different on your wrist at a price that allows it to still be fun!

King Seiko 44KS 4402-8000 Series ($700-$1200)

As discussed earlier, few vintage watches can punch above their weight quite like a King Seiko. The 44KS is my favorite example of what this great sub-brand was able to create. The 36mm stainless steel case and manual wind movement allow this watch to maintain modern proportions for a classic vintage aesthetic.

The resurgence of the King Seiko brand has sparked these watches to increase in price. Coming in at roughly $700-$1200, the value you get from these watches is still second to none. If you are looking for the best value for a vintage watch, not just from Seiko, this is one of the best picks available.

Seiko SilverWave J12082 Series ($800-$1200)

The Seiko SilverWave is not like any other dive watch you will find from Seiko. This watch predated the more recognized models, debuting in 1961, and had a unique way of accounting for elapsed time on a dive. The inner rotating bezel, which was controlled by a single crown, gave this watch a very distinct look for the time and for vintage collectors today. Single crown inner rotating bezel watches were rare in the 1960s and remain rare today.

This unique look allows the SilverWave to go unrecognized as the dive watch pioneer that it clearly is. Coming in at roughly $800-$1200, this watch is an excellent piece of dive watch history at a price the average enthusiast can afford.

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Vintage Seiko Watches Under $3000

Seiko Bullhead Chronograph 6138-0060 Series ($1200-$2000)

Seiko is at it again, with another very distinct chronograph within their 6138 series. The Bullhead chronograph, with its signature crown and pusher layout, is another oddball choice with a cult following of collectors. The aesthetic screams of the 1970s with its brown color scheme and unique case shape.

Coming in at roughly $1200-$2000, these watches have a slight premium over their UFO-shaped cousins. If you are a collector of oddities within the watch world or simply appreciate the design ethos of the 70s, the Bullhead Chronograph is a great option.

Seiko Pogue Chronograph 6139-6002 Series ($2000-$2500)

Of all of the Seiko chronographs from this era, none have garnered as much mainstream popularity as the Pogue. The 6139 model with gold dial and Pepsi bezel famously accompanied Colonel William Pogue on the Skylab 4 Mission in 1973, despite never being authorized by NASA. This is exactly how legends are formed, and this watch is no exception. Unfortunately, this is perhaps the most Frankenwatched vintage Seiko model, and prices vary greatly because of it.

A simple aftermarket dial can be the difference between a $400 watch and a $2400 watch. For a clean example, you should expect to pay between $2000-$2500. Any less than that, and red flags should come up! This watch has skyrocketed in popularity as of late, but if you are looking for a watch with the potential to still increase in value, this may be the best option on the list.

Seiko Baby Panda 6138-8000 Series ($2500-$3000)

The Seiko 6138 “Baby Panda” is the vintage Seiko chronograph for someone who would rather not be so daring with their wrist choice. The Pogue, Bullhead, and UFO are all great, but if you want something a little less bold, the Baby Panda is the watch to go with.

It features a white dial with distinct Panda sub-dials stacked vertically instead of horizontally. The case shape, while still having the wider case flanks Seiko is known for, has visible lugs and feels much more traditional in its design.

Despite being the most “boring” of the Seiko Chronographs listed, this one carries the highest premium, coming in at roughly $2500-$3000. If you are after a vintage Seiko chronograph that can go under the radar, this is the best option for you.

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Vintage Seiko Watches Under $5000

Seiko Captain Willard 6105-8110 Series ($3000-$4000)

Now we’re getting to the truly iconic and historically significant vintage Seiko watches. Made famous by Martin Sheen in the movie Apocalypse Now, the 6105-8110 is a classic Seiko dive watch that has a cult following among collectors. Affectionately known as the Captain Willard among enthusiasts, this model has been reintroduced several times in the modern Seiko lineup.

There are several design cues across Seiko’s current lineup that are heavily inspired by the design of 6105, which was first introduced in 1968. Coming in at a price of $3000-$4000, depending on the condition, this watch is still a relative bargain. If you are looking for the dive watch that helped make Seiko what it is, this watch will be hard to beat.

Grand Seiko J14070 Series ($4000-$5000)

On this list, we have sung the praises of King Seiko, the lesser-known subset of Seiko, that famously competed with Grand Seiko for watchmaking supremacy out of Japan. It is now time to talk about Grand Seiko. Although a separate brand as of 2017, Grand Seiko and its vintage collection still fall within the umbrella of Seiko overall.

The J14070 is the watch that launched Grand Seiko into the stratosphere, proving once and for all that Japan can not only compete with the Swiss for timekeeping accuracy but lead the charge. This watch will set you back roughly $4000-$5000 depending on the condition and year of manufacture. If you are looking for a classically designed watch with a unique history, the J14070 is the watch for you.

Seiko 62MAS 6217-8000 Series ($4000-$5000)

The 62MAS by Seiko is one of the most universally loved designs the brand has ever introduced. Being the first professional dive watch made by Seiko has helped this watch reach iconic status amongst collectors. Much like the Captain Willard, there have been several re-editions of this model, many of which have their own cult following. The signature 37mm size and skin diver case shape make this watch incredibly wearable on a wide range of wrists.

This watch will set you back roughly $4000-$5000, but given the rise in popularity of vintage dive watches (even those not named Rolex), this watch has plenty of potential to increase in value over the next few years. If you are looking for an iconic dive watch that has the potential to make you wish you purchased it when you had the chance, the 62MAS is an excellent option.

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Vintage Seiko Watches Under $10000

Seiko Grandfather Tuna 6159-7010 Series ($5000-$6500)

In this final tier of vintage watches, we will explore the most professional watches Seiko produced throughout the 1970s. The 6159-7010, known as the Grandfather Tuna, features a titanium case with an iconic shroud around it. This watch was rated to reach depths of 600 meters. In terms of Seiko’s current lineup of professional dive watches, the Grandfather Tuna is the ancestor that started it all.

They later ditched the automatic movement for a more reliable high-accuracy quartz one, but the technology, case shape, and overall design can all be traced to this model. Coming in at roughly $5000-$6500, this is another model that has the potential to increase in value over the next few years. If you are looking for a vintage professional dive watch that helped shape Seiko’s current lineup, the Grandfather Tuna is the watch for you.

Seiko Hi-Beat Diver 6159-7000 Series ($6000-$8000)

Much like the Grandfather Tuna, the Seiko Hi-Beat Diver is part of the 6159 series of watches and has helped to shape the modern lineup of Seiko professional divers. If you prefer the look of the Marine Master over the Tuna, you have the 6159-7000 Hi-Beat Diver to thank. Many of the design elements we see on Seiko’s current lineup are present here with this model and executed at a very high level.

The sharp edges and compact case design help this larger-sized watch fit even smaller wrist sizes. When looking throughout Seiko’s vintage dive watch catalog, this watch stands out as a premium offering. At roughly $6000-$8000, the 6159-7000 Hi-Beat Diver carries a premium fit and finish to match the premium price. If you are looking for the most luxurious vintage watch Seiko offers, the 6159-7000 Hi-Beat Diver is the watch you should go with.

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The “Glory Days” Of Vintage Seiko Watch Collecting

There you have it! 20 of the best vintage Seiko watches at a variety of budgets. Over the last few years, vintage watches have become harder and harder to collect. Not just because of the increased risk but because the increase in value has made learning your lessons the hard way that much more painful.

In terms of prices going up, like always, Seiko has your back with this one. The Swiss vintage watch market has exploded in value over the last 5 years, while the Japanese market has been increasing more sustainably. This has resulted in many of the Seiko models listed here being undervalued compared to their equivalent Swiss counterparts. In other words, we are currently living in the “glory days” we are all going to look back on so fondly 10 years from now.

The vintage watch market is tricky, but if you are patient and do your research, there are still plenty of deals to be had! After researching this list, there are at least 2-3 watches that will one day make it into my collection. If I stick to these classic models and the guidelines listed above (even I have a hard time not clicking “Buy It Now” on everything after a few drinks), I should be able to end up with some gems for my collection.

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In this video: Angelus U21 Tourbillon Carbon Gold