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Grand Seiko SBGX347 Review

Grand Seiko SBGX347 Review: The Details in the Design

Lucas M

September 18, 2024

Grand Seiko SBGX347

If you’re a fan of simplistic designs that don’t skimp on quality, then the SBGX347 from Grand Seiko’s Elegance Collection might be for you. With plenty to choose from, this watch has generated so much attention for more than one reason. The precise movement is a big selling point for quartz lovers, on top of a professional look with rich engineering.

For myself, the SBGX347 is a go-to watch for any professional setting. The look of the watch is subtle, but when it comes to the fine details, Grand Seiko shines through every single time. Every aspect of this watch is built for a slim fit, and its design is neutral enough for many casual styles as well.

Grand Seiko manufactures every one of their watches with a purpose. The SBGX347 is a great example of Japanese minimalism, quality, and simplistic beauty. This review of the SBGX347 will break into the components of the watch and its styling to help point you in the right direction.

Roots of the Grand Seiko SBGX347

Hailing from the world-renowned Grand Seiko Elegance Collection, the SBGX347, also referred to as “Gekka,” was unveiled in Q4 of 2021. Gekka refers to the vibrancy of moonlight and the deep hue of the night sky. Even several years later, the watch is easily a personal favorite over many newer GS releases.

While this watch was revealed alongside the SBGX349, that’s a conversation for another time. For the most part, the Elegance Collection focuses on simple to more grandiose designs. The SBGX347 sits on the more neutral side, which is always a perfect choice from my standpoint. I have nothing against a luxury look, but I don’t want it to look like a mirror on my wrist.

It’s important to note that this design does stem from the SBGX341 but promises to deliver something unique among the rest. Grand Seiko has taken inspiration and crossed design features before, but they always find a way to give each timepiece its own personality.

Overall, the Grand Seiko SBGX347 is as classic as it gets. From the design choices to how it feels on your wrist, you’ll know you’re wearing quality. The crown, movement choice, and slim look of the watch give it a universal play in professional and casual wear. Although many watches look stellar with a surface-level view, the real quality can be seen in the inner workings.

The Case of the Watchface

More than anything, the design of the SBGX347 case promotes a classic look that’s timeless, to say the least. I find neutral and elegant to be one of the best looks on anyone, which is partly what makes this watch so versatile.

The 34mm case diameter is a well-fit size for most people, and its 10.7mm depth adds to the overall slim look from every angle. You won’t ever get tired of the Grand Seiko stainless steel polish, which delivers a sleek and eye-catching experience.

A few other important specifications include a 41.5mm lug-to-lug, a narrow, low-set bezel, and an anti-reflective coating inside the sapphire. The watch may be water resistant, but it’s definitely not suitable for any kind of deep water.

Although this may not be a Grand Seiko sports watch, it acts as an elegant styling addition for men and women alike. The watch also features a standard push-down crown that’s anchored at the three-hour mark on the dial.

Once again, it’s important to remember the intentionally simple design of this watch. It isn’t meant to be extremely flashy, with tons of intricacies blended into it. I find it more than suitable for everyday wear, and the design of the Grand Seiko name always lands a positive reaction from those who notice.

There are other unique details about this watch design you might find interesting. A leading example is that the case pays homage to the original 1960 Grand Seiko 3180. The sapphire crystal use is quite thick and does well to emulate plexiglass crystals made popular in the 1960s. 

Although the caseback is relatively standard, it still boasts the traditional Grand Seiko logo. When I look at the case, I truly get lost in the engineering that makes the dial so simultaneously functional and beautiful.

Dial It In and Enjoy the Show

Crafted through inspiration derived from bright moonlight, the SBGX347 offers a vibrant face that pops against the darker band. Numberless hour markers circle the dial with uniformity, only adding to the fine precision of each passing second of the sharp hands.

Looking at the dial and every intricate detail, you’ll notice a uniformity among the simplistic approach to the design. Every aspect falls into place and compliments the engineering surrounding it.

Although it looks relatively plain from a distance, the SBGX347 actually has a fine texture up close. When moving the watch in direct or indirect light, the alternating satin and polished surfaces make themselves known. As with any Grand Seiko watch, it’s this small attention to detail that leads to so much praise for the brand.

From the logo to indices and every hand on the dial, it all comes together for a light and simple look. The watch face may be a bit too bright for certain styles, but it can also act as the perfect contrasting accessory if you want to make a statement. Regardless of the simple approach to its overall design, the depth found in the finer details is what really paints the big picture.

By no means is this next feature jarring, but you can also find a very faint text of “Made in Japan” just below the six-hour marker. In short, the dial does a great job of showcasing elegance without having to do much to achieve such a look. Of course, part of the beauty that ties into the dial can be found in the efficacy of the watch movement.

Marching to the Beat of Quartz Movements

There may be strong opinions about quartz movements, but Grand Seiko’s quality doesn’t diminish in the slightest. For a little more detail, it’s a caliber 9F61 quartz movement, delivering an accuracy of ±10 per year. It’s understandable why someone might go for a much quieter watch, but I personally love to be able to hear time tick with this movement.

Even though you can find valid concerns about the potential inconsistencies with quartz movements, Grand Seiko provides a solution. Thanks to a backlash auto-adjust mechanism, the quartz movement can guarantee a smooth motion soft tick.

From a style point of view, I’m pretty happy Grand Seiko decided to leave the date window out on this one. I feel like it would be completely jarring to the overall minimalist tone of the rest of the watch. Nevertheless, the movement included in the SBGX347 should be seen as any other quartz design.

There are several smaller points that should be highlighted, such as the double pulse motor system. Providing ample support to move the sizable watch hands, it is still able to maintain energy efficiency. 

You may not be able to see it through the case back, but the movement features several purple jewel accents. More impressively, the movement uses aged quartz crystal with an IC. This enables it to adjust to temperature changes to maintain accuracy and consistent motion no matter where you go.

Speaking for myself, I have never been too picky about movements, although I do have respect for high-quality engineering. Considering the nuanced detail that goes into an entry-level luxury watch, the SBGX347 is nothing to overlook. 

No need to worry about design quality, of course, as this watch is built with an in-house movement. That ensures the Grand Seiko quality inside and out, which makes the watch feel even better considering its notably low price.

From the satisfying slight tick, bright dial, classic look of the case, and steel inner markings, it has quickly become a vital part of my wristwatch rotation. The movement of this watch isn’t your standard quartz, and this can be determined by the look and feel of its movement and consistent accuracy.

Any good timepiece delivers an ensemble of an experience. From a distance, the Grand Seiko SBGX347 strap may not look like much, but it happens to be much more impressive up close. The watch wouldn’t look or feel as good if the strap wasn’t comfortable and form-fitting for most wearers.

The Wrap Around the Wrist

Not to be confused with the blue strap on the SBGX349, the SBGX347 features real black crocodile leather. A key distinction here is that it isn’t stamped just for show, which means it feels extremely durable to the touch. 

I love glancing at the GS logo on the buckle, and the slight shine is a fantastic contrast to the dark leather hue. On top of that, the high quality of the crocodile leather ensures a soft look without any kind of distracting sheen.

The band as a whole is 175mm, making it more than adjustable for wrist sizes that are small or large. My favorite detail is the 2.5mm thickness. I’m a huge fan of thinner bands as my wrist is already on the small side, and the SBGX347 looks snug and form-fitting. This tends to be a challenge for me personally, but it’s a testament to the versatility of the strap dimensions.

Keep in mind that it’s the calfskin that truly makes this an all-day wear, as it won’t conflict with your wrist or feel too stiff at varying angles. Considering my relatively thin wrists, that means I’m also not a huge fan of very wide bands. 

This might look fine on larger wrists, but the 18mm band width on the SBGX347 doesn’t try to compete with the other components. I think that’s what makes this such casual wear for me: the watch’s dimensions look uniform from every angle. 

While it’s evident several design details play into this, the size, positioning, and quality of the strap are equally important. I can break down this watch piece by piece, but it can be helpful to look at it from a style and live-in experience as well. 

At the end of the day, I’m a fan of how the strap looks and feels, but that doesn’t mean you can’t always change it. The drilled lugs in this watch make for an easy swap if you prefer a different strap.

What You Can Expect Wearing the SBGX347

I would say that this is one of the best mid-range neutral watches from Grand Seiko. The black leather is a clear choice for any business setting, but the classic black and white is fitting for more casual fits, too. 

However, I feel it’s important to mention that I am more inclined toward dark brown bands and wouldn’t mind switching them every now and then. The contrast of shiny steel, a bright white dial, and a deep brown color is a match for me.

Aside from the strap and case size, weight is another big deciding factor for many. If it feels like it’s pulling my wrist down in the slightest, it’ll more than likely be a no-go. When you combine the 47g weight of the watch and the comfort of the inner band calfskin leather, you’ll almost forget it’s on your wrist. 

Another minor detail I’ve noticed about this watch over time is the consistent durability of the band. It doesn’t feel like it’s losing its form-fitting feel and look, something I really appreciate about the quality of the leather.

Moreover, the grain finish of the white dial helps minimize unwanted reflections and makes for a more muted white dial. We feel this is an excellent choice with such a bright color that could potentially be too jarring. On top of that, the white grain finish allows the stainless steel accents to break through in visible glory. 

I feel like I’m a bit biased due to my smaller wrist size, but it should be mentioned that wrists 6.5 inches or more might not be as comfortable. Then again, those who are more prone to wear a snug fit might be just fine within the 6”-7” range in wrist size. Now that you’re equipped with a manufacturer and user perspective, it’s time to praise the watch’s affordability.

No Need to Break the Bank

Many people love the idea of owning a luxury watch, but this is commonly associated with a high price tag. That’s definitely a true reality, but that isn’t the case with every high-end watch on the market. 

I easily fall into this category, as I cherish affordability like anyone else, but that can be challenging to find alongside quality. The bullet list below offers a quick look at retail and general pre-owned pricing you can expect for the GS SBGX347. You can find the watch for $3,300 at retail, but it drops down to the $2,200 to $2,500 range for pre-owned.

On another note, where you find your luxury timepiece is another consideration. Not only is industry experience important, but you want to work with someone who understands watchmaking inside and out. We select every watch in our catalog at Exquisite Timepieces with intention, ensuring our customers are educated on the ins and outs along the way.

Let’s Wrap Up

For veteran enthusiasts and newcomers alike, choosing your next favorite luxury watch can be a mind-wracking experience. I’m all too fond of this feeling, but this review can act as your guide when you put all the pieces together.

The details always matter, and the Grand Seiko SBGX347 makes you look twice from every angle. You’ll likely miss its true beauty at a glance, only seconding the clever yet classic design of the GS Elegance Collection watch. After reviewing the design specs and considering the cost, I believe this is a viable choice for many.

What wrist does a man wear a watch

What Hand Do You Wear a Watch On?

Ricky Dagand

September 18, 2024

When does wearing a watch stop being just part of a man’s wardrobe and become more a part of his being? This burning question has many layers, starting with the type of watch one chooses. Diver or field watch? Leather strap or NATO? Perhaps the first essential question any budding watch enthusiast asks is, “Which hand is the correct one to wear my watch on?” While the question is valid, the answer is very much subjective. 

One must consider practicality and comfort when wearing a watch, so choosing the wrist to wear your timepiece is not only an aesthetic decision but also one of functionality. So fret not! There are no complex rules in this wide world of watches—the person wearing the piece decides which hand it goes on. Left wrist, right wrist, even double wrist—the choice comes down to what’s comfortable and stylish for you.

What Wrist Does a Man Wear a Watch On?

History shows that, due to the majority of the population being right-hand dominant, watches “should” be worn on the left wrist. Whether it be 18th-century aristocrats or fountain pen connoisseurs of the 20th century, the notion has been passed down that wearing a watch on your dominant hand will get in the way of daily activities and risk potentially damaging the watch.

Considering the fact that 90% of the world is right-handed, it’s no surprise that the “norm” is to wear the watch on the left wrist. But “norms” aren’t rules, and when it comes to watches, one must wear them in a way that best suits them. I’m right-handed and wear my watches on my left wrist since I’m typing, writing, or using a mouse during my workday. 

On the other hand, my dad, who works on plane engines, wears his watch on his dominant right hand. He’s always found it more comfortable for reasons I’ll never fully understand.

Things to Consider When Choosing Which Wrist to Wear a Watch

Most watches are made with right-handers in mind, meaning that the crown and other controls are on the right side of the watch, making it easier to wear on the left wrist. Setting the time with your watch on your right hand could force you into an uncomfortable position while trying to use the crown. It’s important to remember that a watch is also a tool. 

If you wear a watch daily, you should wear it efficiently and according to your surroundings. Wearing a watch on your dominant hand increases the risk of it bumping into something or getting scratched, whereas the non-dominant hand is typically used less, reducing that risk.

Best “Destro” Watches for Lefties

The watch market has traditionally catered more to its right-handed audience. That was until companies started thinking of the 10% of left-handed watch lovers who dreamt of a more comfortable watch-wearing experience. Left-handed watches, or “destro,” which is Italian for “right,” were designed for those who prefer wearing their pieces on the right wrist by placing the crown and functions on the left. Here are the best “destro” watches for lefties.

Rolex GMT-Master II (ref. 126720VTNR)

Rolex’s contribution to the “destro” community debuted in 2022, leaving audiences in awe. Quickly nicknamed the “Sprite,” this left-hand-drive watch comes with a green and black bezel and everything else you’d expect from a Rolex GMT II: an automatic 3285 movement with a 72-hour power reserve. The main difference is that the crown and date display are placed at 9 o’clock for better access when wearing them on the right hand. It’s an absolute gem of a watch, especially when paired with a jubilee bracelet, with prices starting at around $18,000 after retail.

Tudor Pelagos LHD (ref. M25610TNL-0001) 

An essential dive watch for lefties, the Tudor Pelagos LHD features a 42-mm titanium case, a unidirectional rotating matte black ceramic bezel with 60-minute markers, a black dial, and Tudor’s signature snowflake hands. Starting at $5,000, this watch includes a special clasp that adjusts on the wrist depending on the depth, a helium escape valve, and 500 meters of water resistance.

TAG Heuer Monaco Lefty (ref. CAW211P.FC6356)

We can never be as cool as Steve McQueen, but you can come close by getting the limited-edition TAG Heuer Monaco Lefty worn by McQueen himself in the 1971 movie Le Mans. This 39mm square-cased chronograph is a unique marvel in racing watches. It has a beautiful blue dial with silver and red accents, held together by a black leather strap. It’s available on the TAG Heuer website for $8,100.

Zenith El Primero Pilot Lefty Chronograph (ref. 03.2117.4002/23.C704): 

Like lefties themselves, Zenith El Primero Pilot Lefty Chronograph watches are rare. In fact, finding a price online for this limited-edition piece is nearly impossible. It’s a 42mm Pilot edition of the El Primero series with a large black dial and a date marker at the 6 o’clock position. The El Primero Pilot Lefty was the first of its kind for Zenith, released in 2011, and hasn’t been re-released since. But it’s still a sought-after watch that has critics and fans yearning for Zenith to revive it.

Oris Aquis Red Limited Edition (ref. 01 733 7653 4183-Set RS): 

Oris has a philosophy that reads, “Swiss watchmaking for everyone,” and they doubled down on that statement by releasing the Aquis Red Limited Edition. This special edition watch was made for left-handed dive watch lovers at a modest price of $2,000. The Aquis Red Limited Edition comes in a 43mm stainless steel case with a unidirectional rotating black ceramic bezel with red accents, a black dial with white and red markers, and a bright lume that solidifies its status as a dive watch. With 300-meter water resistance, Oris has had collectors clawing at the chance to add this now-discontinued piece to their collections.

In Short

The watch itself is a personal preference, and the hand on which you choose to wear it is also up to you. The unwritten rules are just that—unwritten. There’s no point in following a guide on wearing a watch if it doesn’t feel comfortable on your wrist. Let your personality shine through the watch. Perhaps you’re the classic man who wears it on his left hand. Maybe you want to break the mold and rock the watch on your right wrist. There will be no gasps or nasty looks, I promise. For the lefty community, there are some fantastic watch options. But remember this: no watch is exclusive to a specific hand; wear your watch as you please.

ALL Parts in a Watch

(Timepiece Glossary) ALL Parts in a Watch

Jacob Strong

September 18, 2024

There are few documents that can titillate the senses quite like a glossary. Hard not to have your heart pound out of your chest as you excitedly turn the page, waiting to move onto another technical description, full of words you now need to look up just to grasp the full understanding of what you are reading. 

THIS is not that glossary! For one, I am not nearly smart enough to write THAT type of glossary, and more importantly, I only have 1500 words to catch your attention, define 14 fundamental aspects of a watch, and wrap a pretty bow on all of it. 

Someone once told me that it takes a very smart person to describe a complex subject matter in a simple way that anyone can understand, and I am writing this post with the full intention of proving them wrong!

Why There Are So Many Watch Parts

Watch Parts

Why is the world of watchmaking so complex? To put it simply, because it can be. One of the aspects of a watch that pulls on our heart strings (and purse strings) the most is complexity. 

Does a watch need a chronograph? Nope, but it’s cool! Dive bezel? Nope, but we sure do love them! At the end of the day, these tiny mechanical marvels on our wrist earn our hard-earned watch enthusiast dollars because of their complexity, whether it is how the dial plays with the hands or how the minute repeater helps us flex to our watch nerd friends.

All Watch Parts Explained

Let’s take a look at 14 of the basic components of a timepiece as I try my very best to keep it brief.

Case

The case of a watch is the component that houses the dial and movement of the timepiece. It can be made of an almost limitless variety of materials, although stainless steel is by far the most common. The case provides the structural rigidity of the watch and helps to aid in the robustness of the timepiece. 

Caseback

Working in conjunction with the case, the caseback seals up the back of the watch and protects the movement. The caseback is generally made of the same material as the case, but a sapphire crystal has become a popular style, allowing the user to enjoy the view of their new mechanical marvel in action. 

There are different ways for a caseback to attach to the case, with more basic watches utilizing a pressure fit, or snap-on, mechanism, while more robust watches utilize a screw-on method to help aid the water resistance.

Bezel

Almost every watch has a bezel, but there are 2 different types. The first is a plain bezel. This style of bezel almost appears to be a continuation of the case but is removed while replacing the crystal. The second type of bezel is a functional bezel. 

These bezels vary in function, with the divers style being the most popular, followed by the 12-hour GMT and Tachymeter scale for a chronograph. These bezels, whether fixed or rotating, serve a function for the timepiece.

Bezel Insert

If you have a functional bezel on your watch, it is very likely that you have a bezel insert. This insert is a replaceable component that provides the information that gives the bezel its functionality. 

This could be the 60-minute countdown scale on a dive bezel or the 12-hour markers for a GMT. These come in several different materials, with aluminum bezel inserts prevalent on watches prior to the 2010s and more durable ceramic bezels becoming a staple of both luxury and spec monsters alike.

Lugs

The lugs of the watch are what connect the case of the watch to the strap or bracelet. Although some watches have a lugless design, such as the ever-popular Apple Watch, most watches utilize lugs in their design. 

Although many consider lugs to simply be an aspect of the watch case, they deserve some attention as their own element. Watch lugs can strongly influence the wearing experience of your timepiece. A small diameter watch with long lugs will wear much larger than the case dimension suggests, think Nomos, while the opposite is also true, think Seiko.

Crown

The crown of the watch is often the part that we interact with the most on our timepiece. Often composed of the same material as the case, the crown is our direct connection to the watch movement via a watch stem. 

The crown presents itself as a small bump, often shaped like a crown with ridges, that will hang over the edge of the case. By pulling the crown, you will be able to set the time and, depending on the movement powering your watch, provide power to the movement of your watch.

Crystal

The crystal of a watch is our window to the dial, allowing us to tell the time. These are made of several transparent materials such as mineral glass on less expensive watches, sapphire on modern higher-end watches, or plexiglass on vintage or vintage-inspired watches. 

All of these materials have their different benefits, but they all serve the same purpose of allowing us to actually see the time while simultaneously protecting the dial from dust, debris, and impact (damn doorknobs!).

Dial

The dial of the watch is the plate that displays the information of the timepiece. These vary from very simple, such as the Tudor Ranger,  to breathtakingly beautiful, such as the Grand Seiko Snowflake. The watch dial is the backdrop to all of the information displayed on the watch, regardless of how simple or complex it is.

Hands

The simplest way to think of watch hands is that they are what tell the time. In reality, it’s not quite that simple. The hands are responsible for giving us information. That information is determined by the regulation of the movement but can come in many forms. 

By way of a pinion through the dial to the gears in the movement, the watch hands allow us to see what our watch is actually doing. Hands can vary from basic to beautifully finished and are often a calling card of a given brand or model.

Hour Indices

The hour indices are what give meaning to the hour and minute hands on a dial. These help to mark certain increments of time around the dial and give context to what these hands are actually pointing to. Hour indices can be printed, applied, or even cut out depending on the style of the watch. While applied indices are often sought after, when done right, any style can help elevate a timepiece.

Minute Track

While not present on every watch, a minute track can help to aid in the precision of a timepiece. A minute track follows the circumference of the dial and marks off 1-minute increments. This allows all of us watch nerds to properly set our timepieces to the exact minute as opposed to a guess. While not necessary for a timepiece, these, like the indices, help give further context to what the hands are presenting.

Subdials

More complex watches will feature information beyond just the time. Subdials are a simple way to present additional information to the user. These are generally cut out of the dial, or at least marked with a color change, and will feature their own hands, indices, and markings to help define the information being presented. These can vary from sub seconds counters all the way to chronographs or GMT indicators. 

Date Window

Love em or hate em, many watches have a date function on them. This date function allows their user to not only tell the time but the date as well. The date window is a cut out on the dial that allows the date wheel, which is attached to the backside of the movement under the dial, to display itself to the user. 

There are few triggers that will set off a watch nerd, I mean enthusiast, like the placement of a date, and is best to avoid bringing up while at watch meetups or in forums.

Strap

The strap is responsible for securing the case of the watch to your wrist. The strap can be integrated, such as the AP Royal Oak, or secured through the lugs. Many sports watches will come fitted with a bracelet composed of the same material as the case, while dress watches often come paired with a custom-crafted piece of leather. 

While many people will keep a watch on the original strap, the watch came on for its entire life, one of watch enthusiasm’s great joys comes in the form of swapping from one to another. While I love my watches on their original bracelet, I can’t help but throw them on a NATO strap occasionally.

Conclusion

So there it is; 14 definitions of common watch components. Are watches complex? Absolutely, but you don’t need to know everything about them to have fun. If you are just getting into the hobby, this list here is enough to make you dangerous. Happy watch hunting!

Seiko SBGH291 Review

Grand Seiko SBGH291 Review: A Proper Titanium Dive Watch

William Boyd

September 18, 2024

When does a watch cross the threshold from tool to luxury item? Is it a dollar threshold? A distinction of brand? Or are all time-keeping devices beyond the phone in our pocket truly a luxury item? Truth is, the definition of a tool vs. a luxury item is a sliding scale depending on the individual. One man’s Timex is another man’s Rolex just like one man’s Seiko is another man’s Grand Seiko. Despite the fact that sane people could clearly argue that any watch on your wrist is a frivolous luxury, we watch enthusiasts are different. We would like to believe that any timepiece can be a tool, fit for a purpose, and engineered to perform a task. 

The Rolex Submariner is the undisputed (just kidding, all we do as enthusiasts is dispute) king of the luxury dive watch segment. The DNA from the original tool it was designed as is still present, but the materials and execution (and price) escalate this watch into a luxury timepiece. What about our friends in the East? Seiko has just as historic a tool watch legacy dating back to the 1960s with their 62MAS. The modern interpretation of this iteration was recently covered in our review of the SPB143, a beautiful and modern tool watch in the under $1500 segment. But what about a true luxury watch to compete with the likes of the modern Rolex Submariner. For that, we turn to Grand Seiko, and we look at a late 2021 release in the SBGH291.

History

Seiko SBGH291 Review

The SBGH291 is a premium dive watch offering underneath the Seiko umbrella, but it is far from the first. Where Seiko itself has a history dating back to the 1960s in the world of dive watches, Grand Seiko has a far shorter tenure in the segment. Dating back to 2008, before the Seiko/Grand Seiko brand split, the SBGA029 was Grand Seiko’s first take on a dive watch. While many people expected a premium version of the Seiko SKX with this release, they ended up receiving a watch that compared much closer to something from the likes of Rolex or Omega. The SBGA029 enjoyed a rather lengthy lifecycle, especially by today’s standards of constant refinement, but by October of 2021, this watch was ready to take another step forward with an heir worthy of the Grand Seiko name.

Case

There are a few characteristics that help to earn Grand Seiko their “Grand” designation. When comparing the SBGH291 to a Seiko Dive watch in the Prospex series, one of the first areas you will see this upgrade is in the case. The SBGH291 is formed from High-Intensity Titanium. What is so “intense” about this titanium? Well, for starters, it is harder than regular titanium providing better scratch resistance. As much of a benefit as this is to the consumer, the true benefit to High-Intensity Titanium comes in the form of a brighter finish capable of showcasing Grand Seiko’s signature Zaratsu polished finish. You can get a scratch-resistant case material from almost any manufacturer, a Zaratsu finish, however, is something truly unique to Grand Seiko. Accompanying this case is a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and stainless steel screw-down crown. The bezel insert is crafted from stainless steel as well, providing both form and function while offering a unique look and feel for this dive watch. 

Dial

If there is one thing Grand Seiko is known for among enthusiasts, it is their ability to execute a beautiful dial. The Snowflake and White Birch are both evidence of this. What truly separates Grand Seiko, however, is their ability to finish an ordinary dial to perfection. The SBGH291 features a glossy black dial with silver polished hands and indexes. Within these hands and indexes is the Seiko exclusive LumiBrite lume ensuring that this watch will glow like an absolute torch in low-light situations. This description fits almost every dive watch on the market today, but what sets this timepiece apart is the execution. Every detail has been executed at such a high level that this is one of the very few watches I would dare to take under the loupe. Even with Rolex, Tudor, and Omega watches, I have a very strict “no loupe policy”. Sometimes you are better off not knowing how things look at 5x, 10x, or 20x magnification, this Grand Seiko is an exception to this rule.

Movement

Here is where things get particularly interesting for me. While Seiko invests a majority of its energy, and rightfully so, into its revolutionary Spring Drive technology, this watch utilizes a more traditional automatic movement. The Caliber 9S85 offers a 36,000 BPH escapement providing the user with an exceptionally accurate timepiece of +5/-3 seconds per day. The movement utilizes 37 jewels to help increase longevity while also providing the end user with 55 hours of power reserve. All of these characteristics may seem rather pedestrian by Swiss standards, but this movement is one that you have to see to truly appreciate. The precision that Grand Seiko puts into their movement finishing is something you would need to spend many multiples of the asking price to see from any other manufacturer. Unfortunately, due to the tool watch nature of the SBGH291, this watch features a solid case back. Now that you won’t need to spend every spare moment gazing into the backside of your watch enjoying this beautiful mechanical marvel you should be able to spend some more time on actual adventures!

Straps

The SBGH291 is a watch that, in my opinion, looks best exactly how she came from the factory. The High-Intensity Titanium is carried over from the case through to the bracelet and the result truly is a handsome combo. Where other manufactures lean toward a simple bracelet design when accompanying a dive watch, Grand Seiko went the other direction. This 22mm bracelet provides a subtle taper to the clasp while also providing both brushed and polished center links. The overall look of this bracelet is both rugged and classy. The bracelet does not just provide an aesthetic enhancement as it is accompanied by a proper on-the-fly dive extension capable of easily fitting over any wetsuit or just providing an extra mm or 2 when you go for that extra cold beer on a hot day. You couldm, of course, swap out the bracelet for any 22mm strap you like, but outside of the occasional test drive on a NATO strap, this watch works best as it is.

On-Wrist Experience

Anyone who has ever worn a Seiko dive watch knows that measurements, although useful, don’t tell the whole story of the wearing experience. This watch comes in with a case dimension of 43.8mm wide, with a thickness of 14.7mm, and a lug-to-lug measurement of 51mm. On paper, all of these measurements fall well outside of the accepted range for my 6.5-inch wrist. But sprinkle in a little Seiko dimension magic, and all of a sudden, it might just work. The watch no doubt wears large, but it is a dive watch and carries with it a certain degree of fit for purpose. Outside of the dimension, the High-Intensity Titanium helps to reduce the case weight by over 30% when compared to the stainless steel variant of the SBGH289. Although I am generally a proponent of a slimmer and more compact dive watch, the SBGH291 is one that I can pull off, although your personal preferences may not garner the same result.

Outside of just wearing dimensions, the SBGH291 is a watch that you can wear in many situations. The classic dive watch aesthetic lends itself nicely to both office and beach, while the 200M of water resistance helps to ensure you’ll be covered either way. I would look for another watch in the watchbox if you are going to an event requiring a suit and tie unless, of course, you don’t want to take your fashion advice from a guy writing watch articles who admittedly has none himself (good call on that!).

Price & Availability

Here is the million-dollar question; How much does this thing actually cost? It’s not a Seiko Prospex and not priced like one, either. The MSRP is about $8,800, which puts you slightly under the price range of a Rolex Submariner and well above the price of a standard Omega Seamaster. So why would you pick this over either of those more established Swiss offerings? Two reasons: first, it’s readily available, and second, you can buy this pre-owned for an absolute steal! While I think that buying new makes sense most of the time as long as you can afford it, I am admittedly cheap and have expensive tastes. This combo has led me to the pre-owned section of the Exquisite Timepieces website more than a time or two. There is currently an example of the SBGH291 on the website for about $4,400, roughly half the price of MSRP. While I see the value at $8,800, I can’t help but see what watches I can flip or organs I can sell to get myself into this beast at $4,400. 

Final Thoughts

While I love what Seiko is doing with their prospex range and what Grand Seiko is doing with their beautiful dressy pieces, I can’t help but feel these tool watch offerings from Grand Seiko are currently being slept on by enthusiasts. Do they provide the stunning dial of the Snowflake? No, but there is beauty in their simple execution! Do they have 60 years of dive watch history under their belt? No, not yet, but if I was a betting man, I would put my money on watches like the SBGH291, being the models that collectors are drooling over in the next 60 years and not the watches meant to look like the ones from a generation before. 

Happy Watch Hunting!

What is a Watch Crystal and Why Does it Matter

What is a Watch Crystal and Why Does it Matter?

Charlotte H

September 18, 2024

Have you ever wondered what the term “watch crystal” means? Me too. When I see the word crystal, I instantly think of some fancy gemstone. But it has nothing to do with any diamonds or gemstones set on your watch’s case or dial. Instead, watch crystal refers to the type of glass placed above the display, keeping you from accidentally scratching the face of your favorite timepiece.

It’s that transparent cover that protects the dial of the watch. It is usually made from a material like acrylic, mineral glass, or sapphire crystal. It’s a crucial component of your timepiece, even though, in many cases, it’s barely noticeable. Not only does it shield the inner workings from dust, moisture, and the occasional bump, but it also affects the overall look of your watch.

There’s more to watch crystals than you might think. There are a variety of watch crystal types, each with its own pros and cons, plus a myriad of reasons why your watch crystal is vital in the durability of your timepiece. Let us explain…

The Importance of Watch Crystals

Importance of Watch Crystals

I like to think of my watch’s crystal as a shield. It’s a clear cover that sits over the dial, and it’s got a relatively important job to do. Sure, the case material is also super important in determining the look and durability of my watch, but the glass has an equal amount of responsibility. 

It keeps those delicate inner workings of the watch safe from everyday wear and debris. I wear my watches all the time: out walking, traveling, and on formal occasions, so I need my watch crystal to protect it against everything. I’m talking scratches, dust, and even the occasional splash of water.

Watch crystal does exactly that; it keeps my watch looking good and ticking smoothly. Without a quality piece of crystal over the dial, my timepiece would be at risk of getting damaged, which is a pricey expense I want to avoid. 

The glass also plays a huge role in how your watch looks. You can find domed crystals, flat crystals, and cambered crystals, all giving your watch a sleek and modern finish or more of a classic vintage vibe. There are a number of different watch crystals to choose from, all coming in at different price points too – so your budget will also slightly determine which watch crystal you can get.

Watch Crystal History

Understandably, the materials we have used in the creation of pocket watches and wristwatches have evolved dramatically over the years. That applies to watch crystals, too. Some of the first watches used glass to protect watch dials, often cut from mineral quartz. These early crystals were simple but functional, offering a basic level of protection against dust and damage.

It wasn’t until the early 20th century that acrylic glass emerged as an alternative. The material was a game-changer, as it was lighter and more impact-resistant, making it perfect for those who wanted to wear their watches every day without worry. 

Acrylic glass was also a more affordable alternative than crystals made from mineral quartz, so wristwatches became not only more durable but also more accessible to the general public.

During the 1960’s, mineral glass became a common sight on watches. Made by adding various minerals to standard glass, this type of watch crystal offered the crisp look of glass but with improved scratch resistance and clarity. 

However, the real breakthrough came just twenty years later, with the introduction of synthetic sapphire crystals in the 1980s. Boasting extreme levels of hardness and scratch resistance, sapphire crystal provided better protection than before, with a crystal-clear view of the dial. This material has allowed watchmakers to create even more refined and durable watches, setting new standards in the creation of modern timepieces.

Most Common Watch Crystal Materials

As history attests, there are a number of different watch crystals suited to protecting our timepieces. Some are favored more than others, but each has its own set of benefits and disadvantages.

Before you go out and choose your next timepiece, it’s good to know the differences between the most common watch crystals so you have a complete understanding of the levels of durability, scratch resistance, and readability of the design.

Sapphire Crystal

Personally, I consider sapphire crystal glass to be the crème de la crème of watch crystals. It’s one of the newest materials used for watch glass and as such is considered the most durable and scratch resistant. As its name suggests, it’s made from synthetic sapphire and boasts a hardness second only to diamonds – the strongest material in the world. 

As someone who tends to bump my watch against things, sapphire crystal glass is the perfect choice for me. It keeps the lens clear, durable, and my watches look new for years.

However, with these high levels of durability comes a higher price tag. Sapphire crystal watches are more expensive to produce, which does mean they typically retail for more than those equipped with the two materials mentioned below. 

Another thing to keep in mind is that while sapphire is highly resistant to scratching, it is not immune to shattering. A hard knock in the wrong place could cause the sapphire crystal to crack. It’s difficult to do, but not impossible, so keep that in mind.

The other thing I love about sapphire crystal is how it looks. There’s something about the crispness of the crystal that gives the watches it adorns a luxurious feel. It also boasts a beautiful level of clarity, so reading the time, date, and any other complications is effortless – especially when the sapphire crystal is treated with an anti-reflective coating.

Mineral Crystal

Mineral crystal strikes a nice balance between durability and cost, making it a popular choice for many watch collectors. This type of crystal is made from standard glass that’s been chemically treated to enhance its hardness and scratch resistance. While it’s not as tough as sapphire, mineral crystal does do a pretty good job at resisting scratches from everyday use.

One of the main advantages of mineral crystal is that it’s more affordable than sapphire, which means watches with mineral crystals are generally more accessible to a wider audience. It’s also less likely to shatter compared to sapphire, making it a great option if you’re a bit clumsy. However, annoyingly, if you do manage to scratch your mineral crystal watch, those marks are there to stay, as they can’t be buffed out.

Acrylic Crystal

Finally, acrylic crystal, also known as plexiglass, is another popular watch crystal. It’s easily the most lightweight and affordable option out of the three, making it perfect for those restricted to a particular budget. 

It’s made from a type of plastic rather than glass, so consequently, you can expect it to be resistant to shattering. For this reason, you’ll often find acrylic crystal on sports watches or even vintage pieces.

One of the coolest things about acrylic crystal is that any scratches it picks up can often be polished out with a specialized cleaner and a bit of effort. This makes it a great choice if you want a watch that can handle a few bumps and bruises without looking worse for wear. 

However, it’s worth noting that acrylic is more prone to scratching than both sapphire and mineral crystals, so it will require more maintenance to keep it looking crisp and clear.

How to Distinguish Between Crystal Materials

When you know what to look for, identifying the type of crystal on your watch can be pretty straightforward. Each material has its own set of characteristics, both in its feel and appearance.

I’ve always found acrylic crystal to be the easiest to spot since, at the end of the day, this is basically a form of plastic rather than glass. It is most commonly found on vintage watches since it was the only watch crystal material until the 1960s, as well as sports watches since these designs need to be highly shatterproof.

Acrylic crystal typically has a slight domed appearance, adding to its vintage charm, and when you tap on it, it often feels and sounds like plastic – which makes sense since that’s basically what it is. This material would suit someone who enjoys a more laid-back style or even the nostalgic look of vintage timepieces. It’s also a good choice for anyone needing something affordable and shatterproof.

Mineral crystal is a step up in terms of scratch resistance, so it is commonly used in mid-priced watches. It’s usually flat, although it can sometimes be found in slightly domed designs. 

Unlike acrylic, it has a glass-like feel and appearance and is often thicker than your average watch glass. They tend to have a clear, clean look. It’s perfect for someone who wants a nice middle ground between durability and affordability.

Finally, there’s sapphire crystal. This watch crystal is the go-to for luxury and high-end watches. All the biggest luxury watch brands use this material since it has high levels of scratch resistance and clarity. It does look and feel luxurious. It’s hard to explain exactly why; it just does. Its exceptional clarity certainly helps, and it feels like a solid material when you tap it.

Because of its premium feel, sapphire crystal watches are coveted by those who value both style and substance. As I mentioned, sapphire crystal is my go-to since I tend to knock my watches regularly. It’s a material that holds up under pressure extremely well, and truthfully, it just looks incredible.

When Does a Watch Crystal Need Replacement?

It’s not uncommon for watch crystals to get damaged. At the end of the day, it’s there to protect your watch from accidental knocks and damage. And thankfully, it’s much easier and cheaper to replace the glass than it is to replace an entire dial or movement. 

It’s not uncommon to scratch, crack, or chip your watch crystal, especially if it’s one of the more affordable alternatives like acrylic or mineral glass. If the damage is severe enough, it will likely compromise your ability to read the dial and may even allow dust, moisture, and other debris from entering the dial. This can potentially harm the inner workings of your timepiece, so it’s important you get it fixed as soon as you can.

It’s certainly possible to change a watch crystal on your own, but please know it’s not an easy task – at least for us non-certified watchmakers! It requires precision and the right set of tools and can be a delicate process, especially if you’re using higher-end materials like sapphire crystal. You’ll need to carefully remove the old crystal without damaging the watch case and install the new one. The glass must sit perfectly flush inside the case above the dial, ensuring a tight seal to maintain water resistance.

If it were me, I’d leave a job like this to a professional. It’s not worth the risk, as an improperly installed watch crystal could seriously damage the dial, case, and movement. Exquisite Timepieces offers a fantastic watch repair service, so you feel reassured the job is done properly. They use only the best watchmakers, sending your watch to authorized service facilities where experts work on your timepiece with precision and expertise.

Conclusion

Hopefully you’re now feeling confident in all things watch crystal related. This protective component ultimately acts like a shield for your timepiece, protecting its face from scratches, dust, water, and all the little bumps we throw at it. 

You’ll most commonly find acrylic, mineral or sapphire crystal on the market, with each type boasting its own perks, allowing you to prioritize durability, style and cost the way you need. While the aesthetics of your watch crystal is important, be sure to choose one that best suits your lifestyle and budget.

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