Category: News

You’ve seen it before: a green backdrop, the iconic crown, the gold embossed lettering. Rolex is arguably the most recognizable brand in the world. Unfortunately, such notoriety and success come with its downsides. 

And though they say imitation is the greatest form of flattery, nobody wants to spend many thousands of dollars on a watch only to later find out—or perhaps they never will—that they were duped into buying a fake. 

And yet, in my relatively short time as a watch enthusiast, I’ve spotted more fake Rolexes than I’d care to admit. But here at Exquisite Timepieces, we are in the business of not only selling watches but of protecting our customers. We care about preserving the industry from the duplicitous sellers that have spread across the industry like a virus. 

So sit tight, grab your favorite drink, and let’s discuss the surefire ways to spot a fake Rolex.

Why There Are So Many Fake Rolex Watches

There is no way to accurately quantify the amount of fake Rolex watches in the wild. Even the most conservative of estimations claim that for every genuine Rolex, there are between 10 and 20 counterfeit ones. With Rolex making about 1 million watches per year, there are likely hundreds of millions of fake Rolex watches in the world. 

So yeah—I don’t need to tell you that there are a lot of fake Rolexes. If you take a walk through Chinatown in NYC, you’ll come across various vendors selling imitation Rolex watches. You might have an uncle Tony who loves to brandish a fake, iced-out Presidential. Or maybe curiosity has gotten the best of you, and you’ve browsed the loads of fakes available via the online Asian markets.

Rolex isn’t just a watch—it’s a symbol of success, elegance, and prestige. The brand’s global reputation has created a high demand, which counterfeiters are more than eager to exploit. The sheer volume of fakes on the market stems from the allure of owning a luxury timepiece without the accompanying price tag. 

The average person might recognize a few well-known Swiss watch brands, but almost everyone can identify a Rolex. In a world where people often flaunt success and wealth—sometimes without the means to back it up—social media is overflowing with pretenders. Wearing a fake Rolex is just another form of that same illusion, a symbol of the desire to appear successful at any cost.

12 Ways to Tell If a Rolex is Real

Here are 12 indicators you can look at to make sure your Rolex is real.

Reputable Dealer

Because of the sheer amount of fake Rolex watches, it is of paramount importance to do your homework before purchasing a Rolex watch—new or used. The internet is a great black hole of misinformation and shady sellers, so if considering a new Rolex, always go through an authorized dealer of Rolex. This is the best way to ensure you are getting a 100% authentic Rolex, along with its full warranty and brand experience. 

If you have a question about that old Rolex sitting in your sock drawer, an AD can also provide authentication services. It’s equally important to consider the seller when considering a pre-owned Rolex. Here at Exquisite Timepieces, all of our pre-owned watches go through rigorous testing and authentication to ensure that your buying experience is as worry-free as possible. We have a wonderful collection of pre-owned Rolex watches for sale on our website. Whatever you choose, owning a piece of the crown is a great way to enjoy the wonders of horology!

Watch Price

Have you walked into a Rolex boutique and tried to negotiate the price on a watch—that is if they even have the watch you are looking for, which is nearly impossible in this day and age? They would laugh you out of the store. Rolex does not negotiate prices. You pay the MSRP, period. 

So, if someone is offering you a Daytona for 50% of the retail price, it’s fake. If the price seems too good to be true, it’s fake. Always have realistic expectations when it comes to purchasing highly sought-after luxury goods. Ask yourself: Why would someone be offering this watch at such a deep discount?

Watch Weight

A reliable way to spot a fake Rolex is by checking its weight—authentic Rolex watches are almost always heavier than counterfeits. This is because genuine Rolex timepieces are constructed from premium materials, such as 904L stainless steel, 18k gold, or 950 platinum in more recent models. Older Rolex watches might feature 9k or 14k gold, gold shell, or 316L stainless steel before the brand transitioned to 904L steel. 

On the other hand, counterfeit Rolexes are typically made with cheaper, lower-quality materials, making them lighter, less durable, and generally inferior in condition compared to the real thing. 

Movement

One of the most distinctive features of a Rolex is its movement. The second hand of a Rolex should move smoothly, almost gliding across the dial. If the second hand ticks or stutters, that’s a strong indicator of a fake. New Rolex movements go through stringent standards, achieving the certification of Superlative Chronometer, demonstrating precision of +/- 2 seconds per day. 

If you have a newly purchased Rolex that doesn’t achieve this level of accuracy, you either have a watch in need of service or a fake. A professional watchmaker can confirm whether the movement inside the watch is genuine. However, with the advent of super clones, black market manufacturers are crossing their t’s and dotting their i’s when it comes to recreating a movement that at least appears to be indistinguishable from a genuine Rolex. 

Caseback

Most Rolex casebacks are pretty simple, usually just a combination of brushed or polished metal with no engravings, logos, or fancy designs. Unlike some other luxury watch brands, you won’t typically find a clear window on the back of a Rolex to show off the movement. But there are a few exceptions—some vintage models and special editions might break the rule. 

Plus, with newer models like the platinum Daytona, Rolex has started to offer exhibition casebacks, giving a peek at the intricate inner workings. And for authenticity, Rolex often includes a green hologram sticker on the caseback with a crown, serial number, and a cool 3D “ROLEX” pattern that shifts depending on the viewing angle.

Cyclops

Many Rolex models with a date display include a feature known as the Cyclops lens. This is a convex lens positioned directly over the date window on the watch’s crystal. The lens magnifies the date by 2.5 times, enhancing its legibility. Like the watch’s crystal, the Cyclops lens is crafted from sapphire, making it both durable and scratch-resistant. Many fake Rolex watches have an incorrectly placed and magnified cyclops lens. 

I once had a buddy of mine show me his “brand new” Submariner. When I analyzed the dial, my eye was immediately drawn to the cyclops lens. The date was not magnified enough—or at all really—and the cyclops was just a hair off-center.

Crown Markings

Make no mistake: Rolex is meticulous about their crowns and their design and execution. On many fake models, the etched crown is usually smoother or flatter to the touch, while on a genuine Rolex, they protrude outward. A professional will often scrutinize the crown markings with a jewelers loop, not only to ensure that it is crisp and sharp but also to check the spacings of any markings beneath the crown. Rolex crowns have dots under the logo that indicate the watch’s water resistance and specific variations that coincide with case material. 

Three dots mean it has a Triplock crown, giving it extra water resistance, usually up to 300 meters, and are found on models like the Submariner, Sea-Dweller, and some GMT-Master IIs. Two dots signal a Twinlock crown, typically providing up to 100 meters of water resistance, often seen on models like the Datejust or Oyster Perpetual. There’s also a single dot or a line on some crowns, usually indicating a variation of the Twinlock crown, often found on vintage or less water-resistant models. The number of dots varies depending on the model and its water resistance features.

Serial Numbers

Every Rolex watch has a unique serial number engraved with precision between the lugs at the 6 o’clock position. The engraving should be sharp, clear, and not etched or printed. In fact, Rolex engraves serial numbers using high-precision laser engraving techniques, and counterfeiters often overlook this as most people don’t even know how to remove the bracelet on their watch to check the quality of the engraving! 

Furthermore, the serial number should match the documentation that comes with the watch, though it’s worth considering that fake watch manufacturers often source genuine serial numbers to inscribe on their watches. Rolex can assist in cross-referencing serial numbers to help verify your watch, but it’s worth mentioning that serial numbers alone are not enough to authenticate a timepiece. Most of the time, Rolex will have to open the watch and look at the movement.

Dial Details

Distinguishing a real Rolex from a counterfeit just by examining the dial can be quite difficult. Some fakes have atrocious dials with mismatched text, scratched indices, specs of dust, incorrect fonts, or some other example of subpar manufacturing. Keep in mind, folks, Rolex has been in the horology business for a long time. 

They have very stringent manufacturing standards, and you can expect a watch that is visually perfect to the human eye. And while most fakes can be quickly spotted via dial details, they are getting better and better, with the newest super clones being nearly perfect. When in doubt, always have a dial inspected by a professional!

Hands

When checking if a Rolex is fake, the hands can reveal a lot. First, take a look at the second hand. On a real Rolex, it moves smoothly around the dial, almost like it’s gliding. If you see a noticeable ticking motion, that’s a red flag. Next, check how the hands align with the markers. They should point exactly where they’re supposed to—any misalignment is suspicious. 

Also, pay attention to the shape and finish of the hands. Rolex hands are made with precision, so they should have smooth edges and a flawless finish. If they look rough or poorly finished, something’s off. The material is another clue. Authentic Rolex hands are made from high-quality materials like gold or polished steel. If they look cheap or show signs of tarnish, that’s a bad sign.

If the watch has luminescent hands, the glow should be even and well-applied. Sloppy or uneven lume can indicate a fake. I say “can” because I had a friend who had a brand new Submariner, purchased from an AD, with a tiny spec of lume imperfection at the 7 o’clock indice. 

I assured my buddy that Rolex would certainly fix it if he brought it back to the AD, but he decided to wait until he serviced that watch. Finally, for models with chronographs, the hands should start, stop, and reset smoothly. Any stuttering or misalignment could mean it’s not the real deal. In the end, paying attention to these details can help you spot a fake Rolex quickly.

Crystal Etching

Rolex started laser-etching its sapphire crystals around 2001 to deter counterfeiters. In the right lighting, you can just make out a tiny crown logo at the 6 o’clock position on the crystal. This detail is almost invisible to the naked eye and may require a loupe to see clearly. Counterfeiters often miss this or fail to replicate it accurately. 

If the etching is absent or poorly done, the watch is likely a fake.  One of the reasons why this etching is so difficult to replicate is because it is actually inside of the crystal and not just on the surface. This is incredibly expensive to manufacture without the proper machinery, and as such even the best super clones often have bad crystal etching.

Water Resistance

Did your 300m Rolex Submariner fail in the kiddy pool? Do you see fog on the inside of the glass or beads of water on the dial? This is likely an indication of a fake Rolex—or a genuine one in need of immediate servicing! Rolex watches are designed to be water-resistant, and this feature is rigorously tested at the factory. 

While I wouldn’t recommend testing this yourself, having a professional watchmaker test the water resistance is a good idea. Counterfeit watches often fail this test because they aren’t built to the same stringent standards as a genuine Rolex. Lack of water resistance is a significant red flag.

Why You Shouldn’t Buy Fake Rolex Watches

I have to be realistic. No amount of literature or logic will dissuade somebody dead-set on acquiring a counterfeit watch. Some people have their minds made up. They are looking to flaunt wealth and success and don’t much care for the ten thousand dollar price tag associated with doing so. There is something to be said for the factories putting out these counterfeit products. They are often poorly run with plenty of human rights violations. 

There is also something to be said about the blurring of the lines between real and fake. With the advent of AI technology, it is becoming difficult to discern real from fake. It’s never a good idea to play into this “blurring” but rather to celebrate authenticity and human ingenuity. If you can’t afford a Rolex but you really want one, consider the pre-owned market. 

Finally, you are going to look like a fool when someone who knows watches, a colleague, business partner, maybe even your boss, asks to look at your watch. Don’t be the guy peddling a fake as the real thing. You’ll look like an idiot.

Conclusion

By taking the time to educate yourself and carefully examine any Rolex you’re considering, you ensure that you’re not just buying a watch but a genuine piece of history. A real Rolex is a lifelong companion that can be passed down through generations. Don’t settle for less. Wearing the crown is a costly endeavor, but that ensures a quality timepiece that symbolizes its wearer’s commitment to genuine quality.

When I think of fall, I typically think of burnt oranges, reds, and golden yellows. So, if someone told me they were creating a watch inspired by autumn, I’d be surprised to see a watch with a navy blue dial. 

But alas, Grand Seiko has always been a luxury watchmaker full of surprises, and their Grand Seiko Heritage SBGH273 watch, a timepiece inspired by Shunbun, the sixteenth of the twenty-four sekki or seasons which falls around the time of the autumn equinox, is one of the same. The design reveals a beautiful navy blue dial evoking the hue of a clear autumn night sky, and let me tell you, this is yet another Grand Seiko dial worth seeing in person.

The Grand Seiko Seasons Collection

The Grand Seiko Seasons collection, the family of watches that houses the Grand Seiko Heritage SBGH273 watch, first made its debut in 2019. But, for some of us, there was a catch – it was exclusive only to the U.S. market. Thankfully, for those of us living across the water, the collection was finally made available globally in 2021 and has ever since become a special edition staple in the Japanese watchmaker’s portfolio.

If you know anything about Grand Seiko, it’s that they’re masters of craftsmanship with a knack for creating watches that are basically works of art. They’re best known for drawing inspiration from Japan’s rich natural landscapes and cultural traditions, infusing these elements into their designs. The Seasons Collection is a perfect example of this, featuring dials that are nothing short of breathtaking, inspired by one of the 24 “sekki” in Japan’s seasonal calendar. 

The original Grand Seiko Seasons collection included four watches, each representing a different sekki. You’ve got the SBGA415 “Taisetsu,” which captures the peaceful stillness of winter with its frosty dial, and the SBGA413 “Shunbun,” a pink-hued ode to the fleeting beauty of sakura blossoms in spring. Then there’s the SBGH271 “Rikka,” a lush green homage to early summer’s fresh breeze. 

And then, there’s the Grand Seiko Heritage SBGH273 “Shubun.” This is the model I’m lucky to be reviewing today, and according to Grand Seiko, it is designed to channel the crisp, clear beauty of a moonlit autumn night, “tsukiyo,” with a dial that feels like a quiet evening. Boy, I’m excited to take this one for a test drive.

A 40mm Steel Case

I’ve often found that some of the most beautiful watch cases are those done by Grand Seiko. It’s because their cases are created in-house, by hand, and not shopped for by some external supplier like so many watch brands do (which ultimately leads to all watch cases looking the same). 

In this instance, the Grand Seiko Heritage Shunbun SBGH273’s case is housed in stainless steel, not just any steel, but completely hand-finished steel that is treated to the company’s Zaratsu polishing. 

This is a technique that results in a stunning mirror-like finish. I’m not talking just a quick buff; it’s a process that is painstaking and can take craftsmen about three years to master. But the result is worth it. It’s a case with surfaces so smooth and reflective that it could work as a mirror on the wrist. It works perfectly on a watch like this that blurs the line between a dress watch and a sports watch. 

The case’s shape is modeled after the iconic 62GS, Seiko’s first automatic watch from 1967. The 62GS was groundbreaking, featuring a bezel-less design that focused attention squarely on the dial—something that’s beautifully echoed in the SBGH273. The sleek, angled profile of the case is pure eye candy, drawing you in with its simplicity. 

Size-wise, it has a diameter of 40mm, a lug-to-lug length of 47mm, and a thickness of 12.9mm. It strikes that sweet spot between too small and too large and becomes one of those rare pieces that will fit comfortably on just about any wrist. It looks great on my relatively small frame, and I have no doubt it will look just as good on wrists as large as 7.5 inches – especially if you like the look of smaller, vintage-esque timepieces. 

The box-shaped sapphire crystal set on top adds further vintage flair by mimicking the look of old-school plexiglass while providing modern durability with an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface for a nice touch of legibility. Speaking of durability, this is a sports watch at heart. 

With a 100-meter water resistance rating, the Grand Seiko Heritage Shunbun SBGH273 should be able to handle most of daily life’s encounters. While reviewing this model, it handled light rain and washing dishes perfectly fine. Sadly, I didn’t get a chance to take it swimming but it should handle shallow waters easily too. 

The screw-down crown, neatly positioned at 3 o’clock, assists in the water resistance keeping a closed seal between the case and the outside world. It’s gently knurled for easy grip and proudly features the GS logo in relief. Flip it over, and you’ll find a screw-down case back with a see-through sapphire crystal window, offering a glimpse into the movement inside. 

The Deepest Blue Dial 

I’ve seen many navy blue dials in my time. It’s one of the most common dial colors on the market – and for good reason. It’s a color that works well with basically any outfit or occasion, but I have to be honest, after a while, navy blue can get a little boring. But with the Grand Seiko Heritage Shunbun SBGH273 watch, I am anything but bored. This might just be one of the deepest and richest blue shades out there. I have no idea how Grand Seiko achieved the color, but it honestly truly resembles that super deep shade of blue you see in the sky in the evening.

As mentioned in the introduction, the dial color is inspired by the clear night skies that Japan enjoys at Shubun, the sixteenth of the twenty-four sekki or seasons that fall around the time of the autumn equinox. Like the case, the dial is hand-finished and boasts a beautiful selection of hardware and a special texture on the dial’s main surface. 

I have to be honest; this might be one of the hardest Grand Seiko dial textures to describe – please go see this model in person at your nearest authorized Grand Seiko retailer if you can. The best way I can describe it is as a subtly-grained finish, almost like a light dusting of fog or clouds. 

It’s a subtle effect but one that works all too well with the simplicity of the rest of the design. As for dial furniture, Grand Seiko utilizes their familiar sharp hands for the hours and minutes with brushed detailing and faceted, hand-applied hour markers with both polished and brushed finishing. 

For a brilliant touch of contrast, and one that echoes the way that moon and stars illuminate the sky at night, the seconds hand is done in yellow gold. This adds a warm and luxurious touch to the dial. To match, the GS logo at 12 o’clock is also done in the same metal. 

The only other points of reference on the Grand Seiko Heritage Shunbun SBGH273 watch’s dial are the date window at 3 o’clock, handsomely outlined with its own silvered border, and the white printing used for the Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock and the lettering at 6 o’clock. The latter notes details about the in-house movement working hard inside.

A Hi-Beat Movement

The Grand Seiko Heritage Shunbun SBGH273 watch is powered by the Caliber 9S85, a standout in Grand Seiko’s lineup of 9S hi-beat movements. This caliber operates at an impressive 36,000 vibrations per hour (5Hz) and boasts 37 jewels, providing reliable time and date functionality.

True to Grand Seiko’s rigorous standards, the Caliber 9S85 surpasses even the stringent COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute) regulations. It’s meticulously adjusted in six different positions in Grand Seiko’s own factory and tested to ensure accuracy within -3/+5 seconds per day. 

The movement’s impressive reliability is largely due to the Spron 610 hairspring, which Grand Seiko claims offers three times the resistance to electromagnetic frequencies and twice the shock resistance compared to its predecessors.

With a robust 55-hour power reserve, the Caliber 9S85 not only performs exceptionally but also looks stunning when admired off the wrist. The movement features Zaratsu-polished plates and bridges, delivering a mirror-like finish that complements the watch’s case beautifully. Additionally, the Geneva stripes on the rotor and perlage on the mainplate add to its visual allure.

We understand that most of you shopping for a Grand Seiko watch might be leaning more towards one powered by their Spring Drive movement. It’s understandable; these provide higher levels of accuracy and, of course, that signature smooth sweeping seconds hand. That said, I do believe the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat series deserves equal recognition- especially when it’s packaged in a watch as beautiful as this.

A Metal Bracelet

The Grand Seiko Heritage Shunbun SBGH273 comes with a stainless steel bracelet that matches the case finishing nicely. It features staggered link sizes and alignment, giving it a sporty yet stylish look. The bracelet is mostly brushed steel but with some polished accents in the center links that add a touch of elegance and break up the design nicely.

That said, the bracelet is probably the weakest link in this otherwise stellar watch. It’s not ugly by any means, but for a watch made to this standard, it’s a shame to see it lacks any sort of micro-adjustment. Without micro-adjustment, it’s tricky to get the perfect fit, especially since our wrists can swell and contract throughout the day. On the plus side, it does have adjustable half links with screws which can make a big difference in securing a close fit.

The bracelet’s 21mm lug width may also make finding alternative straps a challenge. I’d love to see the Grand Seiko Heritage Shunbun SBGH273 on a deep navy alligator or calfskin leather strap—something that would really complement the dial. The only snag? Matching the depth of the dial’s navy blue in a strap isn’t going to be easy. 

Luckily, changing straps won’t be a problem because the watch has drilled lugs, which makes swapping out straps a breeze. The bracelet itself has a single-fold deployment clasp that’s both satin and polished, with the GS logo embossed on the outside.

On-Wrist Experience

The Grand Seiko Heritage Shunbun SBGH273 wears exceptionally well on the wrist, thanks to its thoughtfully balanced dimensions. With a diameter of 40mm, a lug-to-lug length of 47mm, and a thickness of 12.9mm, this watch straddles the line between a sports watch and a dress watch. The deep navy dial and Zaratsu polished finish give it a refined, dressy appearance, while the substantial thickness and robust build suggest a sports watch pedigree.

For those with wrists as small as 6.5 inches, you will find this watch comfortable and stylish. It’s large enough to make a statement without being overwhelming. And honestly, if you have wrists even smaller than this, and you’re like me and you love an oversized watch, it might still look great. 

On the flip side, those with wrists up to 7.5 or even 8 inches will find this watch to be a versatile and elegant choice, particularly if you favor more compact-sized timepieces. I do wish the watch were a touch slimmer, though so it would be easier to slip under tight shirt cuffs, but that’s a minor trade-off for the automatic movement inside.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Heritage Shunbun SBGH273 is priced at $6,300 when purchased from authorized Grand Seiko retailers, like Exquisite Timepieces. If you’re considering the second-hand market, you can typically find it for around $4,500 to $5,000. However, it’s crucial to do your homework before buying from gray market dealers. Opting for an authorized retailer ensures you receive a certified warranty and a genuine watch.

While this model is a special edition, it’s not limited, so there’s no immediate rush to buy. That said, the Grand Seiko Heritage Shunbun SBGH273 has been around since 2019, so it’s worth keeping in mind that it might be discontinued sooner rather than later. So, if it is a watch you’re seriously interested in, don’t wait if you don’t have to.

Conclusion

If you couldn’t already tell from this review, I really love the Grand Seiko Heritage Shunbun SBGH273. It’s a beautiful watch and another with press images that don’t do it justice. Online, it looks like any typical navy-dialed dress watch – and there are plenty of them out there. But in person, and on my wrist, it has really impressed me. The case finishing is immaculate, with the mirror-polished capturing just as much attention as the dial.

But truthfully, the dial is the real star. The tone of navy blue is beautiful; it’s a deep, intense shade of blue that I’ve never seen before, and it works all too well with the gold accents on the dial’s hardware. I also love the subtle texture. It brings this wonderful level of light play to the wrist, taking it from royal blue to almost black depending on the angle and light you hold it in. The only drawback is the bracelet, which I wish had micro adjustment but honestly, it’s a sacrifice I’m willing to take for a watch this beautiful.

Usually, you’re either a quartz watch fan or you’re not. I fall into the latter camp; I find the dance of gears and springs in a mechanical watch so fascinating that I find it hard to choose anything but a mechanical watch. 

There’s something special about knowing the level of craftsmanship and complexity that goes on inside a well-made mechanical timepiece, and it’s something a quartz watch can’t compete with. But that’s just my opinion. That said, I do still believe there’s a time and a place for a quartz watch. 

For starters, quartz watches come in sizes that suit my relatively small frame – think five-and-a-half inches of space that can be picky about case sizes. Plus, as someone with a mortgage and wedding to pay for, I’m sadly unable to spend my entire savings on watches (as much as I’d like to), so the budget-friendly nature of quartz watches certainly helps. 

But that’s where models like the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGX349 come in. This model is an excellent entry point into the world of Grand Seiko without the hefty price tag seen on some of their high-end mechanical watches. The SBGX349 still offers that quintessential Grand Seiko artistry and precision, making it a stellar choice for anyone who appreciates fine craftsmanship but isn’t quite ready to dive into the deep end of mechanical watchmaking just yet.

History of Grand Seiko’s Quartz Movements

I think we can confidently say that Grand Seiko is best known for their mechanical watches, especially their Spring Drive and Hi-Beat models. However, the Japanese watchmaker does have a variety of quartz models in their portfolio that are deserving of some attention. The company ventured into the quartz realm of watchmaking fairly late in its history.

In 1988, they debuted their first Grand Seiko quartz watch, the 95GS.  Of course, Grand Seiko never does anything in halves, and they far exceeded the performance of all regular quartz watches, with the 95GS boasting an accuracy of +/- 10 seconds per year. 

Their secret was to create every component of the movement in-house, even using quartz crystals grown in their own laboratory. This way, the watchmakers had total control of the movement’s creation and could ensure these high levels of accuracy along with temperature, shock, and humidity resistance.

Throughout the 1970s and beyond, Grand Seiko continued to refine its quartz technology. The introduction of the Spring Drive quartz movement in the 1980s, which brought together both mechanical and quartz elements, will forever be the brand’s most significant contribution to the watchmaking world. I’m not sure I’ll ever get over the gliding seconds hand of a Grand Seiko Spring Drive, nor the accuracy it promises. 

Because of this, though, Grand Seiko quartz watches are often overshadowed by their mechanical and Spring Drive counterparts, so sometimes, it’s good to take a step back from these popular calibers and appreciate the simpler craftsmanship of a quartz watch. They provide a different perspective on the brand’s innovation and deserve their own recognition for allowing a wider audience to have access to the Grand Seiko name.

1960’s-Inspired Case

It’s not every day that I get to review a watch that feels tailor-made for my wrist size, so when the opportunity to review the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGX349 came up, I jumped at it. This model is one of Grand Seiko’s smallest, with a 34mm diameter, a slim 10.7mm thickness, and a lug-to-lug span of 41.5mm. 

If you have wrists like mine—around five and a half inches—this watch will look stunning on you, offering a mid-century style with a rounded profile, bright polished steel architecture, and long, straight lugs. But even on larger wrists, it retains a charming vintage vibe reminiscent of the smaller, retro watches of the past. 

The stainless steel case design is a nod to the original 3180 Grand Seiko from 1960, featuring the same straight lugs and low profile, making it perfect for slipping under a shirt cuff—a hallmark of a true dress watch. What I love most about this case is the finishing. It’s entirely Zaratsu polished, a meticulous process that takes three years to master. 

The result is a mirror-like finish so flawless that I found myself using the case as an actual mirror, reflecting back at me with such clarity that I can only imagine how challenging it must be for photographers to capture it without including their own reflection! 

The sapphire crystal is another beautiful touch to the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGX349, with a dramatic domed silhouette that mimics the vintage plexiglass of the 1960s, adding to the watch’s retro charm. Positioned at 3 o’clock is an oversized crown with intricate knurled detailing, almost resembling a traditional onion shape but with a modern twist. 

The case back is closed, as expected for a quartz-powered watch, and it is decorated with the vintage Grand Seiko logo and iconic lion emblem. In terms of water resistance, it’s described as “splashproof”, so it’s not suitable for swimming, but you’ll have no trouble washing your hands while wearing it.

Night Sky Dial

The dial of the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGX349 watch is designed to evoke the beauty of a night sky, rendered in a rich, lacquered blue. Grand Seiko dials never fail to impress with their dials, and even with this model’s minimalist time-only display—no date window to be found—it still manages to captivate. 

The shade of blue is truly exquisite, with a semi-gloss finish that catches the light in a mesmerizing way. Depending on the angle, the dial shifts from a deep, almost-black navy to a more vibrant royal blue, creating a dynamic, ever-changing effect. 

The dial’s furnishings are equally striking, featuring faceted hour markers and sharp hands for the hours and minutes, with a mix of polished and satin-finished surfaces. What makes this even more impressive is that all the finishing is done by hand using diamond-tipped milling tools, adding an extraordinary level of depth and visual complexity to the dial. 

The hour and minute hands, in particular, showcase remarkable craftsmanship; they are satin-brushed on top yet boast razor-edged profiles with polished outer facets that catch the light in the most beautiful way. The dial features little to no text to maintain its clean, minimalist aesthetic. There’s no clutter at the 6 o’clock position, just the vintage Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock in silver.

Quartz Movement

The Grand Seiko Elegance SBGX349 watch is powered by the Caliber 9F61, an in-house quartz movement part of Grand Seiko’s 9F family. The 9F family first debuted in 1993 and was a groundbreaking series for its time, becoming one of the first families of luxury quartz movements in the world. While the Caliber 9F61 remains hidden behind the case back, its impressive engineering speaks volumes. 

One of the key highlights of this movement is its remarkable power reserve—lasting up to three years before the battery needs replacing. It features a double pulse motor system, which provides extra power to move the substantial hands on the dial while remaining energy efficient. 

This is particularly significant because many quartz watches tend to have thinner, shorter hands due to power limitations. The Caliber 9F61, however, allows for the use of broader, more luxurious hardware on the dial, enhancing the overall elegance and sophistication of the watch. 

For some, a quartz movement might seem like a downside, but it’s important to note that this isn’t just any standard quartz movement. The Caliber 9F61 is an intricate, in-house Grand Seiko creation, designed with the high levels of attention to detail and craftsmanship that the brand is known for. This movement also plays a crucial role in keeping the watch at a more accessible price point, making it one of the most affordable entryways in the world of Grand Seiko. 

In terms of accuracy, the Caliber 9F61 outshines standard quartz movements by a wide margin, offering an incredible precision of +/- 10 seconds per year. To put that into perspective, typical quartz watches offer an accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month.

Navy Alligator Strap

Just like the watch itself, the strap is designed with minimalism in mind. Crafted from high-quality alligator leather, the band features a clean rectangular scale pattern that runs seamlessly along its length. 

Dyed in a deep, rich blue to perfectly complement the dial, the strap has a semi-gloss finish that adds a subtle sheen without being overly flashy. One of the standout features of this strap is its clean, stitch-free design. Instead of visible stitching, the strap has a bonded structure, with calfskin lining on the underside for added comfort and durability. 

With an 18mm lug width, the strap is perfectly proportioned to the watch’s size, ensuring a balanced look on the wrist. The drilled lugs make it easy to swap out straps, giving you the flexibility to change up your style with ease. Completing the strap is a polished stainless steel pin buckle, which mirrors the watch case’s finish. 

The buckle is also adorned with the vintage Grand Seiko logo in relief. I can’t imagine any other strap suiting the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGX349 watch more, but it would certainly be fun to play around with some different strap styles and colors to see how they’d look.

On-Wrist Experience 

The Grand Seiko Elegance SBGX349 is clearly designed for those with smaller wrists. With its 34mm case and slender sub-11mm height, this watch is a dress watch through and through. It’s perfect for slipping under a shirt cuff, offering that refined, understated elegance that’s essential for formal wear. 

If your wrist measures over 6.5 inches, you might want to explore other Grand Seiko models with larger case sizes in their collection. However, that said, if you appreciate the charm of smaller dress watches, this piece can comfortably fit up to a 7-inch wrist.

Its dimensions also make it a versatile unisex watch, perfect for anyone, whether you’re a female watch collector, a male enthusiast, or someone in between. The Grand Seiko Elegance SBGX349’s timeless design and perfect proportions mean it can be worn with confidence by anyone who appreciates fine craftsmanship.

Price & Availability

Brand new, you can find the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGX349 watch at authorized retailers like Exquisite Timepieces for $3,300. Sure, it sounds expensive for a quartz watch, but when you take into account the exceptional craftsmanship, heritage, and precision that Grand Seiko is known for, the price begins to make sense. 

If budget is still an issue, you might be able to find the model on the second-hand market for around $2,500. It’s not a limited edition Grand Seiko either, so there’s no rush to purchase it now. It remains a staple in the brand’s collection, but be aware it’s a model that’s been out since 2021, so that may not be the case for much longer.

Conclusion

While the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGX349 watch may not house the intricate gears and springs of a traditional mechanical movement, it still stands as a testament to Grand Seiko’s matchless craftsmanship and attention to detail. For those of us who usually gravitate toward mechanical watches, this timepiece offers a compelling reason to embrace quartz. 

The in-house Caliber 9F61 is truly a masterpiece of precision, becoming one of the finest luxury quartz calibers on the market. You’re going to struggle to find another quartz movement at this price, offering an accuracy of +/- 10 seconds per year.

It’s also just a beautiful watch. The case’s Zaratsu polishing, 1960s-inspired profile, and domed glass make it a fantastic dress watch for anyone who appreciates that retro but classy style. The dial, although simple, is also wonderful, and the deep navy hue is a staple of any watch collection. Most importantly, as someone with relatively small wrists, I really appreciate the dimensions here. It’s a dress watch that feels right at home for me. 

I typically try to avoid words like “iconic” and “legendary” when reviewing watches because I think they’re often overused. But, sometimes, there are models that are deserving of those labels. 

For me, The Grand Seiko Snowflake is one of the same. It’s one of those watches that instantly sparks conversation among enthusiasts, coveted for its intricate textured dial that captures the beauty of fresh snow. Myself included, the GS Snowflake is a holy grail watch for many collectors, but as is often the case with such a sought-after piece, getting your hands on one can be quite the challenge. 

So when Grand Seiko releases a watch that echoes the essence of the Snowflake, it’s no surprise so many of us sit up and take notice. One such watch is the Grand Seiko Heritage “Winter” or “Taisetsu” SBGA415. Like the Snowflake, it’s a watch that draws inspiration from the snow and frost, in particular the snows of Taisetsu, the twenty-first of Japan’s twenty-four sekki, or seasons. It’s a design that brings a familiar sense of awe, nodding to the Snowflake and yet having a unique expression of its own.

History of the Grand Seiko Snowflake

When I think of the Grand Seiko Snowflake, I typically think of the popular SBGA011 or the SBGA211 references that were launched in 2005 and 2017, respectively. But, fun fact: the Snowflake dial was introduced many years before that. 

The design dates back to the 1970s when Grand Seiko’s modern watchmakers discovered a sample dial with a texture reminiscent of freshly fallen snow. The discovery sparked the idea to create a dial that could capture the serene beauty of Japan’s winter landscapes. 

Then in 2005, the first Grand Seiko Snowflake, reference SBGA011, was born. This remains a must-have model for many collectors as it was the very first to feature the iconic dial texture. It was housed in a 41mm titanium case and powered by one of the brand’s signature Spring Drive movements (sounding familiar?). It was exclusive to Japan for a number of years before later being introduced to the global market in 2010. 

From that moment, the Grand Seiko Snowflake has become one of – if not the – most coveted models by the Japanese watchmaker. Several models have joined the “Snowflake” family, including the SBGA407, affectionately known as the “Skyflake,” which brought a pale blue dial into the mix to evoke the clear winter sky, and SBGA413, the “Cherry Blossom” Snowflake. This model introduced a soft pink dial that captures the color of cherry blossoms with the Snowflake texture.

Now don’t get me wrong, the Grand Seiko Heritage “Taisetsu” SBGA415 watch I’m reviewing today doesn’t fall into the Snowflake family exactly, but it’s a watch that cleverly captures the same essence, with a design that beautifully reflects the spirit of winter and the meticulous craftsmanship that the Snowflake is known for. 

A 40mm Titanium Case 

The Grand Seiko Heritage “Taisetsu” SBGA415 watch is part of the company’s popular Seasons collection and was originally released in 2019 exclusively to the US market but is now available to the wider global market. 

Like the others in this collection, it measures to 40mm wide, 12.8mm tall, and has a lug-to-lug width of 46.5mm. They’re relatively standard dimensions for a sports watch and allow the model to suit almost all wrist sizes. 

As for the case’s shape, the Grand Seiko Heritage “Taisetsu” SBGA415 watch is inspired by the 62GS from 1967. The 62GS wasn’t just Grand Seiko’s first automatic watch, it was also, along with the 44GS released that same year, the model that introduced the design language we now know as the Grand Seiko Style, which continues to influence all their watches today. 

This modern re-interpretation stays true to its roots, featuring those signature sharp edges and flawless, distortion-free surfaces that only Zaratsu polishing can achieve, along with a wide dial opening made possible by its bezel-free design. 

I always find the benefits of the 62GS-inspired case are most apparent when you strap it onto the wrist. It has this slightly curved architecture that allows it to sit beautifully against the skin, and while I see this model as a sports watch largely down to its full metal design, it could also easily be placed within the dress watch genre for its low profile that would sit beneath a shirt cuff nicely.

Also working in the Grand Seiko Heritage “Taisetsu” SBGA415 watch’s favor is the grade 5 titanium case, a material that is super lightweight and durable. The finishing of the metal is exceptional. It has this wonderful bevel along the case side that is polished using the brand’s famous Zaratsu technique. 

This part contrasts nicely with the other satin-brushed surfaces. Details like this help the otherwise sporty watch gain some elegant, dressy appeal. Angular faceted lugs also help with wearability, conforming nicely to the wrist.

On top, the Grand Seiko Heritage “Taisetsu” SBGA415 watch displays domed sapphire crystal glass, which, since it falls to the very edges of the case with there being little to no bezel in sight, creates this vintage aesthetic that feels like there’s almost no crystal at all. 

The glass is treated to an anti-reflective coating for added legibility on the front end and is left bare on the case back, where it exposes the Spring Drive movement housed inside. The only other element of the case left to note is the crown, which is recessed into the case with knurled detailing and screw-in functionality, allowing for a 100-meter water resistance.

Dial

Now, we move on to the real centerpiece of the Grand Seiko Heritage “Taisetsu” SBGA415 watch: the dial. As mentioned in the introduction, this particular display is inspired by the snow of Taisetsu, the twenty-first of Japan’s twenty-four sekki. It has a much darker hue compared to the pure powder white color of some of the first Snowflake watches or the Spring variation of this Seasons model. 

The color is supposed to mimic the color of pine trees encrusted with snow, and that certainly feels like the case, with the off-white hue having this almost gray or even slightly greenish tint in certain lights. 

Honestly, I think this is one of my favorite Grand Seiko dials available under $10,000. It’s always the case that the dial you see in press photos looks different from what arrives with you in person, but this watch takes that sentiment one step further. 

The awe-inspiring texture of the dial cannot be appreciated unless it’s in front of you, in person. It has these unique alternating brushed strokes that almost look like the strokes of a paintbrush on a canvas. It’s a finish that offers a truly beautiful and one-of-a-kind look, and still, one that, as Grand Seiko promises, is reminiscent of freshly fallen snow. 

It’s also a dial that changes dramatically depending on the light. In lower lighting conditions, the texture of the dial becomes almost invisible, and the dial appears darker and more moody. 

But then, in direct light, the texture comes to life, and the light bounces off the different finishes, including the brushed and brightly polished hardware used for the hands and markers. The hour markers are faceted with polished surfaces, while the dauphine-shaped hands are kept sharp and brushed. The seconds hand adds a nice touch of color to the design in heated blue, while the GS logo at 12 o’clock is presented in warm gold.  

You’ve also got added complications like the date window at 3 o’clock and the power reserve indicator at 7 o’clock. The latter is nicely done with its own recessed aperture and ribbed finishing to mark the power reserve’s scale.

Movement

This is a Grand Seiko, after all, so you can expect just as much magic under the hood as you find on the outside. The Grand Seiko Heritage “Taisetsu” SBGA415 is powered by the Caliber 9R65 Spring Drive movement, a movement that blends the best of both mechanical and quartz technologies. 

What makes the Spring Drive so special is its ability to offer the precision of quartz while maintaining the soul and craftsmanship of a mechanical watch. The result is a movement that’s both incredibly accurate and visually stunning in its operation. 

One of the standout features of the Spring Drive movement is the perfectly smooth sweep of the seconds hand. It has this elegant, continuous glide that is enchanting to watch on the wrist. Another perk is the Grand Seiko Spring Drive’s remarkable accuracy, guaranteed at +/- 15 seconds per month or +/- 1 second per day. 

That’s better than any chronometer-certified mechanical watch. Plus, with an impressive 72-hour or 3-day power reserve, you can take off the SBGA415 watch on Friday and confidently put it back on Monday, knowing it will still be keeping near-perfect time. 

And when you’re not wearing it, the exhibition case back lets you admire the movement at work. While the Grand Seiko emblem partially obstructs the view, you can still enjoy the hollowed-out rotor, the Geneva-inspired stripes across the bridges and rotor, and the mesmerizing glide wheel in action. It’s a subtle reminder of the craftsmanship and innovation packed into this watch. 

Straps 

The bracelet of the Grand Seiko Heritage “Taisetsu” SBGA415 watch comes in matching titanium, with most surfaces brushed and the outer section of the central links polished. Turning the model upside down, you’ll see the typical Grand Seiko folding buckle with a twin trigger release system and the GS logo presented in relief.

I usually find that it’s the bracelet that lets Grand Seiko down when I review their watches, just ever so slightly. I’m hoping they’ll one day upgrade their bracelets to compete with other luxury offerings. For example, this bracelet has a pin system rather than screw-in links, plus there’s no micro adjustment. 

There are two half-links, though, so you can obtain a relatively close fit if needed. This bracelet also has an odd lug width of 21mm, which will make changing straps a little complicated since you’ll usually find 20mm or 22mm straps on the market.  

But don’t get me wrong, the bracelet does look great, especially in how the links meet up with the lugs and case, forming this almost seamless silhouette of lightweight, beautifully finished titanium.

On-Wrist Experience

As someone with wrists just under six inches, I’m always a little apprehensive when a watch measures more than 39mm wide because it’s then that they start to feel a little too oversized for my frame. 

But that wasn’t the case with the Grand Seiko Heritage “Taisetsu” SBGA415 watch at all. I’d say the proposed dimensions wear less than what they suggest, and they’d happily suit wrists as small as mine and any up to seven and a half inches. 

The lightness of the titanium case certainly helps; it feels almost weightless and yet not flimsy in the slightest. I understand not everyone loves titanium because some like to “feel” their watch’s weight, so if that’s you, you might be better off checking out one of the steel variations in the Seasons collection. That said, it’s definitely worth trying for yourself when you visit your next authorized Grand Seiko retailer, as you might surprise yourself. 

As for when I’d wear this, this is one of those watches that perfectly straddles the line between a sports watch and a dress watch- which is the perfect recipe for a daily beater. It’s going to effortlessly suit all occasions, with its durable case and 100-meter water resistance, and it happily survives daily wear. Its beautiful case and dial finishing will attract a fair bit of attention at formal events. 

Price & Availability

Brand new at authorized retailers like Exquisite Timepieces, the Grand Seiko Heritage “Taisetsu” SBGA415 watch retails for $6,600.  Honestly, I think this is a fabulous price for a watch of this caliber. 

It’s not often you’ll find a titanium mechanical watch with a price tag this low, so to find one with an in-house Spring Drive movement, a 72-hour power reserve, a full titanium bracelet, and, of course, an immaculate dial is good going. You might also find it on the second-hand market for around $4,000 and $5,000. Just be sure you’re ordering from an authorized retailer – we’d hate for you to lose out. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage “Taisetsu” SBGA415 watch isn’t a limited edition and remains a permanent fixture in the Japanese watchmaker’s collection. It has been on the market for over three years, though, so whether that will stay the case for much longer is hard to say.

Conclusion 

In conclusion, the Grand Seiko Heritage “Taisetsu” SBGA415 has quickly become one of my favorite Grand Seiko watches I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing in recent years. The case design, while not overly flashy, really won me over with its impeccable finishing and thoughtful details. The curved profile and sloped lugs make this 40mm case fit comfortably on even smaller wrists like mine, which is a huge plus.

But let’s be honest—the real star of the show here is that dial. I’m not sure I can properly put into words just how stunning it is. The unique, erratic texture and that grayish-white hue are simply breathtaking. 

It’s one of those things you have to see in person to fully appreciate. Is this technically a Grand Seiko Snowflake? No. But is it just as beautiful? Absolutely. I hate to admit it, but I think another Grand Seiko just made it onto my wish list. Pray for my bank account, folks!

In the wide, wild world of hype, steady performers who show up, clock in, get the job done, then wake up and do it all over again are often overlooked.

If watches had feelings and could talk, the Omega Railmaster would probably sigh and say, “Yeah, tell me something I didn’t already know.”

The Omega Railmaster has been on the scene since 1957, reliably tracking time and looking good while doing it. Yet it’s gained so little fanfare that many watch enthusiasts aren’t even aware it exists.

Why? This review will aim to answer that question and demonstrate that “the little watch that could”, while overshadowed by its sexier Speedmaster and Seamaster siblings, still remains a prime option for those seeking a watch with both rich history and modern watchmaking technology.

About the Omega Railmaster

The Railmaster, technically the “Omega Seamaster Railmaster”, is an industrial tool watch with a stainless steel case and strong anti-magnetic protection, making it especially suitable for railway workers (hence the name), scientists, healthcare workers, and others who might be exposed to strong magnetic fields on the job which might disrupt the performance of a typical mechanical watch.

The Railmaster evolved over the years into contemporary references with enhanced anti-magnetic shielding, appealing modern interpretation of vintage design cues, and the powerful and precise timing of a METAS-certified Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement.

History of Omega Railmaster Watches

The Railmaster was born in 1957, the “middle child” of the “Master” triplets that included the iconic Speedmaster and Seamaster 300. Sometimes referred to as the “Holy Trinity” (as if the watch world needed yet another to confuse matters), the broad-arrow hour handed trio are pictured in early print ads with the Railmaster sandwiched between its siblings; ironic, considering the difficulty it would face competing for elbow room with watches that would end up on the wrists of James Bond and Apollo astronauts.

In the heyday of the mid-20th century “Atomic Age”, when the promise of a hover car in every garage and a jetpack on every back seemed close at hand, a robust 38mm diameter stainless steel outer case with a soft iron inner core (essentially, a “Faraday cage”) protecting the movement against up to 1,000 gauss of magnetism probably seemed like a must-have feature for the “watch of the future”. It was also a means to compete with the Rolex Milgauss and IWC Ingenieur, which provided similar safeguarding.

But by 1963, the Seamaster and Speedmaster were soaring in popularity, and the Railmaster had failed to capture the hearts and imaginations of the public, so Omega discontinued it. Today, the relatively rare CK2914 references from that six-year period are highly sought after in the vintage watch market.

In 2003, Omega reintroduced the Railmaster and moved the broad arrow to the minutes hand, and added a sapphire display caseback to showcase George Daniel’s co-axial escapement movement the brand started using in 1999. In 2008, Omega released the ginormous 49.2mm XXL reference, but their seemingly disjointed attempts to revitalize the Railmaster ultimately stalled, and the model was discontinued for a second time in 2012.

In 2017, Omega released limited edition Railmasters, which were part of a 60^th anniversary celebration of the 1957 “Masters” models, along with several Seamaster Heritage model Railmaster references characterized by a mix of vintage and modern styling elements. All 2017 novelties included improved 15,000 gauss anti-magnetic protection and a METAS-certified Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement.

Omega Railmaster: In-Depth Review

Let’s look at the exterior and under the hood of the Railmaster and gain further appreciation for a traditionally underrated but extraordinary watch.

Case Size and Material

Both the 60^th anniversary limited Railmasters and ongoing Seamaster Heritage model references have improved stainless steel cases with screw-down crowns that eliminate the need for an inner core and provide an amazing 15,000 gauss of anti-magnetic protection and a very respectable 150 meters/500 feet of water resistance.

The 1957 references have a 38mm diameter in keeping with the original CK2914, a thickness of 12.7mm, a lug-to-lug width of 48mm, and a lug width of 19mm. The Seamaster Heritage Railmaster references are 40mm in diameter and have a thickness of 12.7mm, a lug-to-lug width of 47mm, and a lug width of 20mm, which makes them quintessential “strap monsters”. Both diameters fit essentially true to size and are suitable for most wrists.

The cases have a round shape with similar design elements such as smooth integrated bezels, the familiar Omega twisted lugs, anti-reflective sapphire crystals, and solid casebacks with the “NAIAD LOCK” feature that ensures the engraved Omega hippocampus and print are vertically aligned.

There are some aesthetic differences between the various models in terms of polished versus brushed finishing, caseback designs, and crown shape that I’ll cover in later sections of the review.

Dials

The limited edition Railmaster references exude a 1957 vintage vibe with tropical black dials and white 3,6,9,12 positioned Arabic numerals and recessed, triangular hour indices filled with SuperLuminova the color of faux patina or “old radium” which glows green in the dark. 

The handset includes a lumed broad arrow hour hand and dagger minute hand with an un-lumed needle seconds hand. There are slight differences in dial print between the two throwback references I’ll discuss in a bit.

Several Heritage model Railmaster references retain the Arabic numeral positioning, triangular indices (not recessed, though), and faux patina lume, while the 2 blue denim dials use white indices and lume. All offer more modern styled stick hour and minute hands and a “lollipop” seconds hand. 

The minute indices are cleverly designed to appear like a railroad track (Woo woo!), and there is a central “crosshair” that segments the dial for additional vintage effect. The dial is printed with the Omega name and logo in the upper half, and a script “Railmaster” and printed “Co-Axial Master Chronometer” in the lower. 

Dial colors include black, gray, and blue “denim” with a vertically brushed finish. The Omega website currently shows only a black dial reference available for sale, but all colors are still obtainable through the Exquisite Timepieces website.

Movement

All modern Railmaster references share a powerful and accurate engine—the automatic METAS-certified Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 8806 . The movement has bi-directional winding and a rated accuracy of +5/0 seconds per day, a free-spring balance wheel and magnetic-resistant silicon balance spring, a frequency of 25,200 vibrations per hour, 35 jewels, and boasts a 55-hour power reserve.

Strap options

The stainless steel bracelets for the 1957 references are 19mm in lug width with a wide, fold over brushed clasp with a signed “Ω”. The chunky clasp has been panned by some reviewers for its relative lack of comfort. On the bright side, the clasp does have what Omega calls a “comfort setting”, which is an “on-the-fly” micro adjustment activated by a button on the inside of the clasp. The 3-link bracelet design features wide center links with a vertically brushed finish and narrower, polished outer links to match the polished lugs.

The Heritage Railmaster stainless steel bracelet is also a 3-link design featuring wide center links with narrower outside links but is completely brushed to complement the all brushed finish of the case and lugs. 

Another difference is the narrower butterfly clasp (no micro-adjustment) which is signed with both the Omega name and logo. All modern Railmasters feature screw-in links with half links for easier and more precise sizing. Some Heritage Railmaster references also come with herringbone black fabric pin buckle and NATO-style blue denim and brown leather straps.

Most Popular Omega Railmaster Models

Here are 5 noteworthy and popular Omega Railmaster models:

Omega Railmaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer 40mm on Bracelet (ref. 220.10.40.20.01.001)

This all-stainless steel Heritage Railmaster has a sporty, all-brushed finish case and bracelet. Still, it creates an almost “faux-polished” look due to the brushed bracelet and varying directions of brush lines on the case sides, bezel, facets, and lugs. 

The vertically brushed finish of the black dial seems to emit different shades of black, gray, or dark blue depending on the light and rotation of the watch. The guilloché facets on the medallion caseback provides a contrasting backdrop for the Omega hippocampus and logo. And let’s not forget the easy-to-grasp, “cupcake” shaped, screw-down crown which opens with a satisfying “Snap!”

Omega Seamaster Railmaster 1957 (ref. 220.10.38.20.01.002)

This 60^th Anniversary 1957 reference is part of a 3,557 piece limited edition and is slightly different from the one in the 557 piece “Trilogy” boxed set. It features an old school broad arrow hour hand, case with mixed polished and brushed finishes that flash impressively when the watch is rotated in the light, and a polished caseback with the engraved limited edition number of the watch. 

A cool vintage detail is the naiad “Mercedes”-like symbol, which originally signified enhanced water resistance, inside the Omega logo on the crown. It’s not shown on the Omega website, but Exquisite Timepieces has you covered.

Omega Railmaster Blue Dial Denim Co-Axial Master Chronometer NATO strap (ref. 220.12.40.20.03.001)

This playful and colorful Heritage collection Railmaster reference evokes visions of the blue denim-clad railroad workers who needed an anti-magnetic watch like this back in the day. The vertically brushed dial finish also provides varying shades of blue when rotated in the light. 

White indices and lume are used instead of faux patina. It comes with a matching denim-blue colored fabric NATO strap. The keepers on the strap, as well as the seconds hand and script “Railmaster” signature on the dial, are a bronze color, providing a refreshing pop of contrast.

Omega Railmaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer 40mm on NATO strap (ref. 220.12.40.20.06.001)

Similar in style to the previous model, this Railmaster model has a brown leather instead of denim-blue cloth NATO strap. In addition, the dial is vertically brushed with streaks of variable gray and has faux patina lumed hands and triangular indices, and script “Railmaster” printed on the dial, along with contrasting black “railroad” track minute indices, 3,6,9,12-positioned Arabic numerals, “Omega” name/logo, and “Co-Axial Master Chronometer” branding. The case is also available with a steel bracelet (ref. 220.10.40.20.06.001)

Omega Seamaster Railmaster Trilogy Limited Edition (ref. 220.10.38.20.01.003)

The 1957 “Trilogy” reference was sold along with sibling 1957 Seamaster 300 and Speedmaster models in a limited edition boxed set of 557 pieces and is nearly identical to the ref. 220.10.38.20.01.002. The “Trilogy” sets are available on the secondary market but hard to find and often exceed $20,000. 

What’s different between the two 1957 references? This model has the word “Trilogy” engraved on the polished caseback and printed near the top of the tropical black dial, plus numerals beneath the dial “Trilogy” that indicate which numbered piece it is in the series.

Should You Buy An Omega Seamaster Railmaster?

You don’t have to be a railroad worker or scientist to appreciate the experience of owning a Railmaster. Despite its relative anonymity, it’s a performance beast with a simple but handsome face that you should definitely check out if a blend of rich heritage and modern specs is what you’re after.

Omega Railmaster Pricing & Availability

Once again, Omega appears to be phasing out this interesting watch, but new models ranging from $5,400 to $7,500 are still available from some dealers, including 7 references on the Exquisite Timepieces website. Secondary market prices of many models are in the $4,500 and under range.

Conclusion

Like many “parents”, Omega has sometimes had a hard time explaining and supporting a child that lags behind its siblings. As a result, the Railmaster, despite high performing specs and elegant but simple good looks, has toiled in the shadows and beneath the radar of many watch enthusiasts.

Still, the Railmaster is a vital piece of Omega and horological history, and with it potentially on the chopping block again, now may be the time to show your support and “adopt” a very deserving “middle child” of a timepiece that just might end up being among the favorites you ever own.