There are few documents that can titillate the senses quite like a glossary. Hard not to have your heart pound out of your chest as you excitedly turn the page, waiting to move onto another technical description, full of words you now need to look up just to grasp the full understanding of what you are reading.
THIS is not that glossary! For one, I am not nearly smart enough to write THAT type of glossary, and more importantly, I only have 1500 words to catch your attention, define 14 fundamental aspects of a watch, and wrap a pretty bow on all of it.
Someone once told me that it takes a very smart person to describe a complex subject matter in a simple way that anyone can understand, and I am writing this post with the full intention of proving them wrong!
Why There Are So Many Watch Parts
Why is the world of watchmaking so complex? To put it simply, because it can be. One of the aspects of a watch that pulls on our heart strings (and purse strings) the most is complexity.
Does a watch need a chronograph? Nope, but it’s cool! Dive bezel? Nope, but we sure do love them! At the end of the day, these tiny mechanical marvels on our wrist earn our hard-earned watch enthusiast dollars because of their complexity, whether it is how the dial plays with the hands or how the minute repeater helps us flex to our watch nerd friends.
All Watch Parts Explained
Let’s take a look at 14 of the basic components of a timepiece as I try my very best to keep it brief.
Case
The case of a watch is the component that houses the dial and movement of the timepiece. It can be made of an almost limitless variety of materials, although stainless steel is by far the most common. The case provides the structural rigidity of the watch and helps to aid in the robustness of the timepiece.
Caseback
Working in conjunction with the case, the caseback seals up the back of the watch and protects the movement. The caseback is generally made of the same material as the case, but a sapphire crystal has become a popular style, allowing the user to enjoy the view of their new mechanical marvel in action.
There are different ways for a caseback to attach to the case, with more basic watches utilizing a pressure fit, or snap-on, mechanism, while more robust watches utilize a screw-on method to help aid the water resistance.
Bezel
Almost every watch has a bezel, but there are 2 different types. The first is a plain bezel. This style of bezel almost appears to be a continuation of the case but is removed while replacing the crystal. The second type of bezel is a functional bezel.
These bezels vary in function, with the divers style being the most popular, followed by the 12-hour GMT and Tachymeter scale for a chronograph. These bezels, whether fixed or rotating, serve a function for the timepiece.
Bezel Insert
If you have a functional bezel on your watch, it is very likely that you have a bezel insert. This insert is a replaceable component that provides the information that gives the bezel its functionality.
This could be the 60-minute countdown scale on a dive bezel or the 12-hour markers for a GMT. These come in several different materials, with aluminum bezel inserts prevalent on watches prior to the 2010s and more durable ceramic bezels becoming a staple of both luxury and spec monsters alike.
Lugs
The lugs of the watch are what connect the case of the watch to the strap or bracelet. Although some watches have a lugless design, such as the ever-popular Apple Watch, most watches utilize lugs in their design.
Although many consider lugs to simply be an aspect of the watch case, they deserve some attention as their own element. Watch lugs can strongly influence the wearing experience of your timepiece. A small diameter watch with long lugs will wear much larger than the case dimension suggests, think Nomos, while the opposite is also true, think Seiko.
Crown
The crown of the watch is often the part that we interact with the most on our timepiece. Often composed of the same material as the case, the crown is our direct connection to the watch movement via a watch stem.
The crown presents itself as a small bump, often shaped like a crown with ridges, that will hang over the edge of the case. By pulling the crown, you will be able to set the time and, depending on the movement powering your watch, provide power to the movement of your watch.
Crystal
The crystal of a watch is our window to the dial, allowing us to tell the time. These are made of several transparent materials such as mineral glass on less expensive watches, sapphire on modern higher-end watches, or plexiglass on vintage or vintage-inspired watches.
All of these materials have their different benefits, but they all serve the same purpose of allowing us to actually see the time while simultaneously protecting the dial from dust, debris, and impact (damn doorknobs!).
Dial
The dial of the watch is the plate that displays the information of the timepiece. These vary from very simple, such as the Tudor Ranger, to breathtakingly beautiful, such as the Grand Seiko Snowflake. The watch dial is the backdrop to all of the information displayed on the watch, regardless of how simple or complex it is.
Hands
The simplest way to think of watch hands is that they are what tell the time. In reality, it’s not quite that simple. The hands are responsible for giving us information. That information is determined by the regulation of the movement but can come in many forms.
By way of a pinion through the dial to the gears in the movement, the watch hands allow us to see what our watch is actually doing. Hands can vary from basic to beautifully finished and are often a calling card of a given brand or model.
Hour Indices
The hour indices are what give meaning to the hour and minute hands on a dial. These help to mark certain increments of time around the dial and give context to what these hands are actually pointing to. Hour indices can be printed, applied, or even cut out depending on the style of the watch. While applied indices are often sought after, when done right, any style can help elevate a timepiece.
Minute Track
While not present on every watch, a minute track can help to aid in the precision of a timepiece. A minute track follows the circumference of the dial and marks off 1-minute increments. This allows all of us watch nerds to properly set our timepieces to the exact minute as opposed to a guess. While not necessary for a timepiece, these, like the indices, help give further context to what the hands are presenting.
Subdials
More complex watches will feature information beyond just the time. Subdials are a simple way to present additional information to the user. These are generally cut out of the dial, or at least marked with a color change, and will feature their own hands, indices, and markings to help define the information being presented. These can vary from sub seconds counters all the way to chronographs or GMT indicators.
Date Window
Love em or hate em, many watches have a date function on them. This date function allows their user to not only tell the time but the date as well. The date window is a cut out on the dial that allows the date wheel, which is attached to the backside of the movement under the dial, to display itself to the user.
There are few triggers that will set off a watch nerd, I mean enthusiast, like the placement of a date, and is best to avoid bringing up while at watch meetups or in forums.
Strap
The strap is responsible for securing the case of the watch to your wrist. The strap can be integrated, such as the AP Royal Oak, or secured through the lugs. Many sports watches will come fitted with a bracelet composed of the same material as the case, while dress watches often come paired with a custom-crafted piece of leather.
While many people will keep a watch on the original strap, the watch came on for its entire life, one of watch enthusiasm’s great joys comes in the form of swapping from one to another. While I love my watches on their original bracelet, I can’t help but throw them on a NATO strap occasionally.
Conclusion
So there it is; 14 definitions of common watch components. Are watches complex? Absolutely, but you don’t need to know everything about them to have fun. If you are just getting into the hobby, this list here is enough to make you dangerous. Happy watch hunting!
When does a watch cross the threshold from tool to luxury item? Is it a dollar threshold? A distinction of brand? Or are all time-keeping devices beyond the phone in our pocket truly a luxury item? Truth is, the definition of a tool vs. a luxury item is a sliding scale depending on the individual. One man’s Timex is another man’s Rolex just like one man’s Seiko is another man’s Grand Seiko. Despite the fact that sane people could clearly argue that any watch on your wrist is a frivolous luxury, we watch enthusiasts are different. We would like to believe that any timepiece can be a tool, fit for a purpose, and engineered to perform a task.
The Rolex Submariner is the undisputed (just kidding, all we do as enthusiasts is dispute) king of the luxury dive watch segment. The DNA from the original tool it was designed as is still present, but the materials and execution (and price) escalate this watch into a luxury timepiece. What about our friends in the East? Seiko has just as historic a tool watch legacy dating back to the 1960s with their 62MAS. The modern interpretation of this iteration was recently covered in our review of the SPB143, a beautiful and modern tool watch in the under $1500 segment. But what about a true luxury watch to compete with the likes of the modern Rolex Submariner. For that, we turn to Grand Seiko, and we look at a late 2021 release in the SBGH291.
History
The SBGH291 is a premium dive watch offering underneath the Seiko umbrella, but it is far from the first. Where Seiko itself has a history dating back to the 1960s in the world of dive watches, Grand Seiko has a far shorter tenure in the segment. Dating back to 2008, before the Seiko/Grand Seiko brand split, the SBGA029 was Grand Seiko’s first take on a dive watch. While many people expected a premium version of the Seiko SKX with this release, they ended up receiving a watch that compared much closer to something from the likes of Rolex or Omega. The SBGA029 enjoyed a rather lengthy lifecycle, especially by today’s standards of constant refinement, but by October of 2021, this watch was ready to take another step forward with an heir worthy of the Grand Seiko name.
Case
There are a few characteristics that help to earn Grand Seiko their “Grand” designation. When comparing the SBGH291 to a Seiko Dive watch in the Prospex series, one of the first areas you will see this upgrade is in the case. The SBGH291 is formed from High-Intensity Titanium. What is so “intense” about this titanium? Well, for starters, it is harder than regular titanium providing better scratch resistance. As much of a benefit as this is to the consumer, the true benefit to High-Intensity Titanium comes in the form of a brighter finish capable of showcasing Grand Seiko’s signature Zaratsu polished finish. You can get a scratch-resistant case material from almost any manufacturer, a Zaratsu finish, however, is something truly unique to Grand Seiko. Accompanying this case is a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and stainless steel screw-down crown. The bezel insert is crafted from stainless steel as well, providing both form and function while offering a unique look and feel for this dive watch.
Dial
If there is one thing Grand Seiko is known for among enthusiasts, it is their ability to execute a beautiful dial. The Snowflake and White Birch are both evidence of this. What truly separates Grand Seiko, however, is their ability to finish an ordinary dial to perfection. The SBGH291 features a glossy black dial with silver polished hands and indexes. Within these hands and indexes is the Seiko exclusive LumiBrite lume ensuring that this watch will glow like an absolute torch in low-light situations. This description fits almost every dive watch on the market today, but what sets this timepiece apart is the execution. Every detail has been executed at such a high level that this is one of the very few watches I would dare to take under the loupe. Even with Rolex, Tudor, and Omega watches, I have a very strict “no loupe policy”. Sometimes you are better off not knowing how things look at 5x, 10x, or 20x magnification, this Grand Seiko is an exception to this rule.
Movement
Here is where things get particularly interesting for me. While Seiko invests a majority of its energy, and rightfully so, into its revolutionary Spring Drive technology, this watch utilizes a more traditional automatic movement. The Caliber 9S85 offers a 36,000 BPH escapement providing the user with an exceptionally accurate timepiece of +5/-3 seconds per day. The movement utilizes 37 jewels to help increase longevity while also providing the end user with 55 hours of power reserve. All of these characteristics may seem rather pedestrian by Swiss standards, but this movement is one that you have to see to truly appreciate. The precision that Grand Seiko puts into their movement finishing is something you would need to spend many multiples of the asking price to see from any other manufacturer. Unfortunately, due to the tool watch nature of the SBGH291, this watch features a solid case back. Now that you won’t need to spend every spare moment gazing into the backside of your watch enjoying this beautiful mechanical marvel you should be able to spend some more time on actual adventures!
Straps
The SBGH291 is a watch that, in my opinion, looks best exactly how she came from the factory. The High-Intensity Titanium is carried over from the case through to the bracelet and the result truly is a handsome combo. Where other manufactures lean toward a simple bracelet design when accompanying a dive watch, Grand Seiko went the other direction. This 22mm bracelet provides a subtle taper to the clasp while also providing both brushed and polished center links. The overall look of this bracelet is both rugged and classy. The bracelet does not just provide an aesthetic enhancement as it is accompanied by a proper on-the-fly dive extension capable of easily fitting over any wetsuit or just providing an extra mm or 2 when you go for that extra cold beer on a hot day. You couldm, of course, swap out the bracelet for any 22mm strap you like, but outside of the occasional test drive on a NATO strap, this watch works best as it is.
On-Wrist Experience
Anyone who has ever worn a Seiko dive watch knows that measurements, although useful, don’t tell the whole story of the wearing experience. This watch comes in with a case dimension of 43.8mm wide, with a thickness of 14.7mm, and a lug-to-lug measurement of 51mm. On paper, all of these measurements fall well outside of the accepted range for my 6.5-inch wrist. But sprinkle in a little Seiko dimension magic, and all of a sudden, it might just work. The watch no doubt wears large, but it is a dive watch and carries with it a certain degree of fit for purpose. Outside of the dimension, the High-Intensity Titanium helps to reduce the case weight by over 30% when compared to the stainless steel variant of the SBGH289. Although I am generally a proponent of a slimmer and more compact dive watch, the SBGH291 is one that I can pull off, although your personal preferences may not garner the same result.
Outside of just wearing dimensions, the SBGH291 is a watch that you can wear in many situations. The classic dive watch aesthetic lends itself nicely to both office and beach, while the 200M of water resistance helps to ensure you’ll be covered either way. I would look for another watch in the watchbox if you are going to an event requiring a suit and tie unless, of course, you don’t want to take your fashion advice from a guy writing watch articles who admittedly has none himself (good call on that!).
Price & Availability
Here is the million-dollar question; How much does this thing actually cost? It’s not a Seiko Prospex and not priced like one, either. The MSRP is about $8,800, which puts you slightly under the price range of a Rolex Submariner and well above the price of a standard Omega Seamaster. So why would you pick this over either of those more established Swiss offerings? Two reasons: first, it’s readily available, and second, you can buy this pre-owned for an absolute steal! While I think that buying new makes sense most of the time as long as you can afford it, I am admittedly cheap and have expensive tastes. This combo has led me to the pre-owned section of the Exquisite Timepieces website more than a time or two. There is currently an example of the SBGH291 on the website for about $4,400, roughly half the price of MSRP. While I see the value at $8,800, I can’t help but see what watches I can flip or organs I can sell to get myself into this beast at $4,400.
Final Thoughts
While I love what Seiko is doing with their prospex range and what Grand Seiko is doing with their beautiful dressy pieces, I can’t help but feel these tool watch offerings from Grand Seiko are currently being slept on by enthusiasts. Do they provide the stunning dial of the Snowflake? No, but there is beauty in their simple execution! Do they have 60 years of dive watch history under their belt? No, not yet, but if I was a betting man, I would put my money on watches like the SBGH291, being the models that collectors are drooling over in the next 60 years and not the watches meant to look like the ones from a generation before.
Have you ever wondered what the term “watch crystal” means? Me too. When I see the word crystal, I instantly think of some fancy gemstone. But it has nothing to do with any diamonds or gemstones set on your watch’s case or dial. Instead, watch crystal refers to the type of glass placed above the display, keeping you from accidentally scratching the face of your favorite timepiece.
It’s that transparent cover that protects the dial of the watch. It is usually made from a material like acrylic, mineral glass, or sapphire crystal. It’s a crucial component of your timepiece, even though, in many cases, it’s barely noticeable. Not only does it shield the inner workings from dust, moisture, and the occasional bump, but it also affects the overall look of your watch.
There’s more to watch crystals than you might think. There are a variety of watch crystal types, each with its own pros and cons, plus a myriad of reasons why your watch crystal is vital in the durability of your timepiece. Let us explain…
The Importance of Watch Crystals
I like to think of my watch’s crystal as a shield. It’s a clear cover that sits over the dial, and it’s got a relatively important job to do. Sure, the case material is also super important in determining the look and durability of my watch, but the glass has an equal amount of responsibility.
It keeps those delicate inner workings of the watch safe from everyday wear and debris. I wear my watches all the time: out walking, traveling, and on formal occasions, so I need my watch crystal to protect it against everything. I’m talking scratches, dust, and even the occasional splash of water.
Watch crystal does exactly that; it keeps my watch looking good and ticking smoothly. Without a quality piece of crystal over the dial, my timepiece would be at risk of getting damaged, which is a pricey expense I want to avoid.
The glass also plays a huge role in how your watch looks. You can find domed crystals, flat crystals, and cambered crystals, all giving your watch a sleek and modern finish or more of a classic vintage vibe. There are a number of different watch crystals to choose from, all coming in at different price points too – so your budget will also slightly determine which watch crystal you can get.
Watch Crystal History
Understandably, the materials we have used in the creation of pocket watches and wristwatches have evolved dramatically over the years. That applies to watch crystals, too. Some of the first watches used glass to protect watch dials, often cut from mineral quartz. These early crystals were simple but functional, offering a basic level of protection against dust and damage.
It wasn’t until the early 20th century that acrylic glass emerged as an alternative. The material was a game-changer, as it was lighter and more impact-resistant, making it perfect for those who wanted to wear their watches every day without worry.
Acrylic glass was also a more affordable alternative than crystals made from mineral quartz, so wristwatches became not only more durable but also more accessible to the general public.
During the 1960’s, mineral glass became a common sight on watches. Made by adding various minerals to standard glass, this type of watch crystal offered the crisp look of glass but with improved scratch resistance and clarity.
However, the real breakthrough came just twenty years later, with the introduction of synthetic sapphire crystals in the 1980s. Boasting extreme levels of hardness and scratch resistance, sapphire crystal provided better protection than before, with a crystal-clear view of the dial. This material has allowed watchmakers to create even more refined and durable watches, setting new standards in the creation of modern timepieces.
Most Common Watch Crystal Materials
As history attests, there are a number of different watch crystals suited to protecting our timepieces. Some are favored more than others, but each has its own set of benefits and disadvantages.
Before you go out and choose your next timepiece, it’s good to know the differences between the most common watch crystals so you have a complete understanding of the levels of durability, scratch resistance, and readability of the design.
Sapphire Crystal
Personally, I consider sapphire crystal glass to be the crème de la crème of watch crystals. It’s one of the newest materials used for watch glass and as such is considered the most durable and scratch resistant. As its name suggests, it’s made from synthetic sapphire and boasts a hardness second only to diamonds – the strongest material in the world.
As someone who tends to bump my watch against things, sapphire crystal glass is the perfect choice for me. It keeps the lens clear, durable, and my watches look new for years.
However, with these high levels of durability comes a higher price tag. Sapphire crystal watches are more expensive to produce, which does mean they typically retail for more than those equipped with the two materials mentioned below.
Another thing to keep in mind is that while sapphire is highly resistant to scratching, it is not immune to shattering. A hard knock in the wrong place could cause the sapphire crystal to crack. It’s difficult to do, but not impossible, so keep that in mind.
The other thing I love about sapphire crystal is how it looks. There’s something about the crispness of the crystal that gives the watches it adorns a luxurious feel. It also boasts a beautiful level of clarity, so reading the time, date, and any other complications is effortless – especially when the sapphire crystal is treated with an anti-reflective coating.
Mineral Crystal
Mineral crystal strikes a nice balance between durability and cost, making it a popular choice for many watch collectors. This type of crystal is made from standard glass that’s been chemically treated to enhance its hardness and scratch resistance. While it’s not as tough as sapphire, mineral crystal does do a pretty good job at resisting scratches from everyday use.
One of the main advantages of mineral crystal is that it’s more affordable than sapphire, which means watches with mineral crystals are generally more accessible to a wider audience. It’s also less likely to shatter compared to sapphire, making it a great option if you’re a bit clumsy. However, annoyingly, if you do manage to scratch your mineral crystal watch, those marks are there to stay, as they can’t be buffed out.
Acrylic Crystal
Finally, acrylic crystal, also known as plexiglass, is another popular watch crystal. It’s easily the most lightweight and affordable option out of the three, making it perfect for those restricted to a particular budget.
It’s made from a type of plastic rather than glass, so consequently, you can expect it to be resistant to shattering. For this reason, you’ll often find acrylic crystal on sports watches or even vintage pieces.
One of the coolest things about acrylic crystal is that any scratches it picks up can often be polished out with a specialized cleaner and a bit of effort. This makes it a great choice if you want a watch that can handle a few bumps and bruises without looking worse for wear.
However, it’s worth noting that acrylic is more prone to scratching than both sapphire and mineral crystals, so it will require more maintenance to keep it looking crisp and clear.
How to Distinguish Between Crystal Materials
When you know what to look for, identifying the type of crystal on your watch can be pretty straightforward. Each material has its own set of characteristics, both in its feel and appearance.
I’ve always found acrylic crystal to be the easiest to spot since, at the end of the day, this is basically a form of plastic rather than glass. It is most commonly found on vintage watches since it was the only watch crystal material until the 1960s, as well as sports watches since these designs need to be highly shatterproof.
Acrylic crystal typically has a slight domed appearance, adding to its vintage charm, and when you tap on it, it often feels and sounds like plastic – which makes sense since that’s basically what it is. This material would suit someone who enjoys a more laid-back style or even the nostalgic look of vintage timepieces. It’s also a good choice for anyone needing something affordable and shatterproof.
Mineral crystal is a step up in terms of scratch resistance, so it is commonly used in mid-priced watches. It’s usually flat, although it can sometimes be found in slightly domed designs.
Unlike acrylic, it has a glass-like feel and appearance and is often thicker than your average watch glass. They tend to have a clear, clean look. It’s perfect for someone who wants a nice middle ground between durability and affordability.
Finally, there’s sapphire crystal. This watch crystal is the go-to for luxury and high-end watches. All the biggest luxury watch brands use this material since it has high levels of scratch resistance and clarity. It does look and feel luxurious. It’s hard to explain exactly why; it just does. Its exceptional clarity certainly helps, and it feels like a solid material when you tap it.
Because of its premium feel, sapphire crystal watches are coveted by those who value both style and substance. As I mentioned, sapphire crystal is my go-to since I tend to knock my watches regularly. It’s a material that holds up under pressure extremely well, and truthfully, it just looks incredible.
When Does a Watch Crystal Need Replacement?
It’s not uncommon for watch crystals to get damaged. At the end of the day, it’s there to protect your watch from accidental knocks and damage. And thankfully, it’s much easier and cheaper to replace the glass than it is to replace an entire dial or movement.
It’s not uncommon to scratch, crack, or chip your watch crystal, especially if it’s one of the more affordable alternatives like acrylic or mineral glass. If the damage is severe enough, it will likely compromise your ability to read the dial and may even allow dust, moisture, and other debris from entering the dial. This can potentially harm the inner workings of your timepiece, so it’s important you get it fixed as soon as you can.
It’s certainly possible to change a watch crystal on your own, but please know it’s not an easy task – at least for us non-certified watchmakers! It requires precision and the right set of tools and can be a delicate process, especially if you’re using higher-end materials like sapphire crystal. You’ll need to carefully remove the old crystal without damaging the watch case and install the new one. The glass must sit perfectly flush inside the case above the dial, ensuring a tight seal to maintain water resistance.
If it were me, I’d leave a job like this to a professional. It’s not worth the risk, as an improperly installed watch crystal could seriously damage the dial, case, and movement. Exquisite Timepieces offers a fantastic watch repair service, so you feel reassured the job is done properly. They use only the best watchmakers, sending your watch to authorized service facilities where experts work on your timepiece with precision and expertise.
Conclusion
Hopefully you’re now feeling confident in all things watch crystal related. This protective component ultimately acts like a shield for your timepiece, protecting its face from scratches, dust, water, and all the little bumps we throw at it.
You’ll most commonly find acrylic, mineral or sapphire crystal on the market, with each type boasting its own perks, allowing you to prioritize durability, style and cost the way you need. While the aesthetics of your watch crystal is important, be sure to choose one that best suits your lifestyle and budget.
Have you recently read the term “watch crown” as part of a timepiece’s specifications or review and wondered what this means? Or have you just found yourself staring at your watch, speculating what that little knob on the side is?
Trust me, you’re not alone. We’ve all wondered what this component is called at some point. This charming feature is called a watch crown, and it’s not just for show.
A watch crown is the often small, rounded button-like feature on your watch case’s side. Its primary job is to help wind the watch – if your watch has a mechanical movement – and to set the time on the dial.
This information might be nothing new to you, but did you know that crowns offer more than just winding and setting? In today’s blog, we will be exploring all the intricacies of a watch crown, including the different types of watch crowns out there and why they are so important in the construction of your timepiece.
Why are Crowns so Important?
The humble watch crown might seem like a small, insignificant detail at first, but it actually provides a long list of benefits to your timepiece. Usually found on the right-hand side of the case but also sometimes positioned on the left (we’re looking at you U-Boat), the watch crown is predominantly used for setting the time and date on your watch.
By popping it out to its correct position, you can turn the crown to adjust the hands and calendar. And, if your watch has additional complications—like a moon phase or GMT—the crown handles those settings too.
If you have a mechanical watch, the crown is also essential in winding the movement. Unlike quartz watches that are powered by an electronic battery, mechanical movements rely on a mainspring to store energy. When you turn the crown, it tightens this mainspring, gradually releasing energy that powers the watch.
Moreover, the watch crown plays a protective role in the functionality of your timepiece. Some crowns have a screw-down feature, creating a tight seal between the crown and case. This helps to protect the watch, and the movement inside, from things like water, dust, and dirt. It’s a particularly vital feature for those wanting a watch to use for diving or outdoor adventures.
History of Watch Crowns
In the early days of watchmaking history, people had yet to experience the joy of wearing a wristwatch. Instead, they typically kept a pocket watch in their pocket and held it onto their clothing with a chain.
With their manual winding movements, these devices required winding once or twice a day to keep their time. But they didn’t have a crown that could do that. Instead, the owner would have to carry around a small winding key, which was placed into a small hole in the side of the case. They would then have to turn the key to wind their pocket watch.
This was the case until the early 19th century when a clever chap named Adolphe Nicole introduced the first watch crown. His invention replaced those fiddly keys with a much simpler, integrated knob on the side of the watch case. It was a revolutionary innovation, allowing watch owners to wind their timepieces up on the go – with no more risk of losing those small winding keys!
Ever since, watch crowns have evolved to become more than just a winding tool. In the 20th century, watchmakers started adding features like screw-down crowns for better water resistance, and the integration of more complex complications like GMT and perpetual calendar allowed crowns to manipulate these features, too.
The look of watch crowns has also changed over the years. They were once large and onion-shaped but have now adapted to become smaller and sleeker. Their style is tailored to different types of watches, ensuring the crown not only serves its practical purpose but also complements the overall aesthetic of the watch.
Types of Watch Crowns
When it comes to watch crowns, there’s more variety than you might think! Each type of crown has its own unique set of features and serves specific functions, adding both style and practicality to your timepiece. Let’s take a look at some of the most popular types of watch crowns you might find…
Push-Pull Crown
Possibly the most common and straightforward type of watch crown you’ll encounter is the push-pull crown. As its name suggests, it uses a simple pull and push mechanism. To set the date or wind the movement, you simply pull the crown outward – often to different positions for each function.
Then once the movement is fully wound and the time and date are set correctly, you push the crown back in to secure the settings. Push-pull crowns are found in most everyday watches, especially dress watches that don’t require high levels of water resistance.
Screw-Down Crown
Most often found on diving watches and adventure watches, the screw-down crown arrives with a clever threaded mechanism that literally allows the crown to be screwed into the watch case. This creates a tight seal against the two components so you can feel assured of enhanced water resistance and protection against dust and debris.
To adjust the crown or manually wind the movement, you would unscrew the crown before screwing it back in. Screw-down crowns are essential for watches designed for extreme conditions, especially diver’s watches that need complete protection against water pressure.
Onion-Shaped Crowns
While the two types of watch crowns above reflect the functionality of the watch, the next few crowns are named as such for their looks. The onion-shaped crown is exactly what its name suggests: a crown that looks a lot like an onion.
It has an almost bulbous appearance reminiscent of the shape of some of the first watch crowns. As such, they are a popular sight on vintage-inspired watches. They add a real nostalgic charm to watches, plus their large size and knurled detailing make them easy to grip and adjust.
Crowns with Cabochon
Cabochon crowns are a popular choice for those that want their watch to look elegant and stylish. It’s a style that sees the tip of the crown set with a cabochon gemstone, a gemstone that is smooth and rounded for a sophisticated look.
The Cartier Tank is one of the world’s most famous watches known for boasting a cabochon crown on the right hand side of its rectangular case. The cabochon is usually made from materials like sapphire, ruby, or onyx and not only enhances the watch’s aesthetics but also provides a tactile, satisfying feel.
Recessed Crowns
The recessed crown is a type of crown that is fairly new to the watch world, spotted on modern watches. Unlike traditional crowns that protrude from the watch case, these knobs are embedded or set into a small cavity within the case. They are designed to enhance protection, so you are less likely to damage the crown should you knock it against a hard surface.
Plus, it also helps to maintain a watch’s water resistance and gives the case a more streamlined appearance. You’ll most likely see recessed crowns in sports watches where durability and sleek design are key.
When Does a Watch Crown Need Replacement?
Hopefully, your watch crown will never need replacing, but if it becomes damaged, hard to operate, or the water resistance is compromised, it may require a replacement. Common signs of a broken watch crown include difficulty winding the watch, problems setting the time, or noticeable wear and tear on the exterior of the crown.
Replacing a watch crown yourself isn’t an easy task, as it’s an intricate process that requires a steady hand and plenty of precision. The method involves removing the old crown, selecting the correct replacement, and then carefully ensuring it fits perfectly against the case and attaches to the movement to ensure all functions operate correctly. It often requires specialized tools and expertise to avoid damaging the watch and the movement inside.
For the best results, we advise you to leave crown replacement to professional watchmakers. At Exquisite Timepieces, we offer a specialized watch repair service where we make sure only the top watchmakers handle and repair your timepiece. We securely package each watch and send it directly to authorized service facilities to ensure it’s treated with the utmost care.
Conclusion
If you couldn’t tell, we think the crown is a bit of a hidden gem. It may seem like a small, barely noticeable part of a watch, but it plays a critical role in its functionality. From winding the movement to setting the time to shielding the watch against water, dust, and debris, the crown is essential for your watch’s performance and longevity.
And given its importance, it’s equally important to make sure you take care of your watch crown. If you suspect any damage or issues, we highly recommend having it inspected immediately to prevent any further harm coming to your precious timepiece.
In the vast and often complex world of horology, there are only a few watches I’d seriously consider “holy grail” pieces. These are those rare gems that have not only left an indelible mark on history but continue to inspire watchmakers around the globe to create their own adaptations. They’re not just watches that tell the time but watches that are legendary for their interpretation of time. One such icon is the Omega Speedmaster.
This legendary black-dialed chronograph with its thin tachymeter bezel and five-row link bracelet has cemented itself a place in the pantheon of watchmaking greatness. The story of its birth is worthy of history books, and it has become a symbol of ingenuity, adventure, and timeless style. But, even today, years after its creation, this is a watch that remains high up on watch collector’s bucket lists.
About The Omega Speedmaster
I’m not really much of a chronograph wearer – mainly because they’re usually too big for my small wrists. And yet, if someone offered me an Omega Speedmaster watch, I’d take it in a heartbeat.
The model, first released in 1957, has quite easily become one of the main cornerstones in the world of chronographs and tool watches. Funnily enough, it was originally designed as a sports and racing chronograph, and its clean, functional design set it apart from other watches of that era. However, its history extended far beyond the race track, eventually becoming the first watch on the moon – but more on that shortly.
The Omega Speedmaster’s most defining features include its striking black dial, which provides excellent contrast and readability of its chronograph function, and the thin black tachymeter bezel that allows you to measure speed based on elapsed time.
There’s also often a five-link bracelet, adding both comfort and a handsome vintage appearance to the overall aesthetic, and a beautifully curved stainless steel case measuring 42mm wide.
History of Omega Speedmaster Watches
As mentioned, the story of the Omega Speedmaster began in 1957, starting with the introduction of the Speedmaster Ref. CK2915. It was originally designed as a sports and racing chronograph aiming to meet the needs of professional drivers – and, of course, watch enthusiasts who simply appreciate the adrenaline that goes with the racetrack.
Ironically, despite being a perfectly capable racing chronograph, the Omega Speedmaster didn’t find much success in its early years. In fact, it took half a decade and a rather significant journey into space to make that happen.
In 1962, NASA launched the Apollo program, a set of missions that planned to land humans on the moon for the first time and bring them back to Earth safely. A year later, NASA began their search for a watch that was reliable, durable, and legible enough to suit their astronauts in space. It would serve as the official watch of the Apollo program. In the end, four brands took their shot – Omega, Longines-Wittnauer, Rolex, and Hamilton.
As you’ve probably guessed, the only watch to pass the rigorous testing for use in space missions was the Omega Speedmaster, and its selection led it to become the official watch of the Apollo missions. The watch became no stranger to zero gravity and was most famously used by all three astronauts during the Apollo 11 mission in 1969. This included Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin, who made history as the first humans to walk on the moon. And, of course, that made the Omega Speedmaster the first watch on the moon.
This historic event cemented the Omega Speedmaster as a legend and earned it its well-known nickname the “Moonwatch”. The exact reference to make it onto the moon’s surface was reference 105.012, boasting the very same 42mm wide steel case, black chronograph dial with luminous inserts, and thin tachymeter bezel familiar to all modern-day references. It also featured a manual-winding movement and vintage Hesalite crystal.
It’s no surprise that as the years went on, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch collection expanded to include new variations and technological improvements. One of the biggest upgrades was the introduction of the “Professional” designation, which further solidified its connection to space missions and professional use.
In the 1990s and early 2000s, Omega continued innovating while carefully respecting the Speedmaster’s heritage. Maintaining all the core characteristics of the original designs, such as the Speedmaster Professional “Moonphase” and the Speedmaster Reduced, brought new functionality and design variations to the collection. The brand also introduced the “Co-Axial” movement for enhanced precision and durability.
Sure, the original reference 105.012 will always be the “true” Moonwatch, but the models that have come after it are just as important. They are all deeply rooted in the original’s history, boasting all the essential features that make an Omega Speedmaster an Omega Speedmaster. They have just embraced modern advancements to ensure the design remains a relevant and sought-after timepiece.
Omega Speedmaster: In-Depth Review
As we’ve mentioned, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional has been engineered in a number of different styles, but more often than not, they have a set few characteristics in common. Here are some of the essential features you can expect to find in an Omega Speedmaster.
A 42mm Steel Case
Other than a handful of the first Omega Speedmaster watches released (including the first reference CK2915 made for the racetrack), every true Moonwatch since has had a case size of 42mm. The inaugural models came in a little smaller – something typical of the time – measuring to 38.6mm and later 39.7mm. But in 1969, with the creation of the Omega Speedmaster that would make it onto the moon’s surface, the lyre lugs and crown guards increased the diameter of the watch to 42mm. And it’s been that way ever since.
Similarly, the rest of the dimensions have barely changed. The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional typically boasts a thickness of around 13mm, a lug-to-lug of 47mm, and a lug width of 20mm. It’s a really nice set of dimensions, allowing the watch to suit wrists anywhere from 6 inches and above. There are other Speedmasters that are smaller, but it’s worth noting these aren’t classed as “Moonwatches”.
The overall case shape is another permanent fixture, with the turned lug design borrowed from the classic Speedmaster’s silhouette. In the same way, the crown and chronograph pushers are placed in a traditional position, all recessed into the case just slightly for added durability. The crown is non-screwed down but does still warrant a 50-meter water-resistant rating.
The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional is most commonly found with a classic stainless steel case. The finishing is beautiful; it has brushed sides and high polish on the case and lug tops. There are also a handful of Moonwatch references in the Swiss watchmaker’s current collection made using their Sedna™, Canopus, or Moonshine Gold, a proprietary alloy developed by Omega.
The material offers a rich, long-lasting gold color and looks particularly stunning with the Speedmaster’s classic black dial. In some cases, gold is used for the entire case and bracelet, and in other instances, Omega has combined Sedna or Moonshine Gold with stainless steel for a cool two-toned finish. Although these models are beautiful for me, the classic stainless steel Speedmaster will always be my favorite.
A Black Tachymeter Bezel
Possibly one of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional’s most defining characteristics is its tachymeter bezel. Most other space-inspired watches, or even tool watches for that matter, don’t have a tachymeter bezel because it’s used for measuring speed, typically related to the speed of a car on the racetrack. But since the Speedmaster was originally created for motorsport enthusiasts, the tachymeter continues to be a nod to its racing roots and a nice reminder that while the Speedmaster may have reached the moon, it was born on the racetrack.
The Speedmaster’s bezel is set on the outskirts of the case, kept nice and thin with a black aluminum insert. It has a wonderful glossy finish and is printed with the tachymeter scale in white. Some Omega Speedmaster Moonwatches feature a dot over the numeral for 90. Often referred to as “DO90”, this feature is a hallmark of early Speedmaster models and is highly prized by collectors for its historical accuracy and connection to the original design.
A Monochromatic Dial
Of course, the most famous dial color for the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional is the classic black display. Just like the reference to walk the Moon, most modern-day iterations of the design have a black matte finish with white printed markers and a slightly stepped architecture, which you’ll notice when you look at the minute track more closely. The three register displays for the chronograph and small seconds are also sunken for a nice touch of legibility.
The dial hardware isn’t oversized in any way but still offers a good amount of legibility. This is largely due to the contrasting white printing used on many markers and the luminescent material placed on the hands. The iconic Omega Speedmaster Professional logo is always positioned at 12 o’clock.
There are some other dial colors available in the Speedmaster collection, including green, white, silver, and gold. The white-dialed reference 310.30.42.50.04.001 is a personal favorite and a nice twist on the classic black display, switching around the colors for the surface and markers for a bright, legible finish.
Hesalite or Sapphire Crystal?
Understandably, while some of the original Omega Speedmaster watches featured domed Hesalite crystal glass, most of the modern re-interpretations have boasted contemporary scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. But there have been a handful of modern references that have brought back the Hesalite crystal for good reason. One of said references is 310.30.42.50.01.001.
Despite Hesalite being more prone to scratches, it does give the Omega Speedmaster a distinctly vintage finish featuring a higher dome and a very cool engraving of the Omega logo at the center of the crystal – a very small detail that’s fun to spot if you can! Meanwhile, sapphire crystal, although still slightly domed, does have a lower profile on the wrist, plus enhanced scratch resistance.
Ultimately, the choice between Hesalite and sapphire crystals will depend on your personal preferences. Those traditionalists who want an Omega Speedmaster as close to the original Moonwatch as possible will prefer those with Hesalite. On the flip side, those of you who prioritize durability will prefer scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.
It’s worth noting there is a small price difference between the two, with the Hesalite models retailing from $6,600 on the solid bracelet and the sapphire models priced at $7,600. The Hesalite references also have closed case backs engraved with the traditional Moonwatch message, while the sapphire crystal iterations keep things modern with a matching sapphire crystal exhibition back that lets you admire the movement inside.
Manual Winding Movements
Another notable change to the Omega Speedmaster over the years is the movement found within. Of course, as the years have gone by, Omega has drastically advanced its technologies for the better, but what’s really impressive is that although the technology has improved, the overall visuals and functionality have remained much the same.
Like the original, the majority of Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional watches you’ll see are powered by manual-winding movements. These are the mechanical movements that require physical rewinding via the crown every few days.
One of the most used manual calibers in today’s current collection is the Omega 3861. This is a movement with a 50-hour power reserve, an anti-magnetic silicon balance spring, a free-sprung balance, chronograph complication, and chronometer certification.
It’s also one of just a few manual winding movements from Omega that uses a co-axial escapement. This is an escapement system that utilizes three pallets rather than the traditional two, which ultimately reduces sliding friction and increases service interval time. The Omega 3861 is also certified as a Master Chronometer by METAS, which includes more tests and higher standards for accuracy than chronometer certification alone.
Those who opt for an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with an exhibition case back will also be able to admire the architecture of the manual movement inside, which is laid out a lot like the original. It has rhodium plating and Geneva stripes across the bridges. Plus, you can spot some of the 26 jewels.
Leather, Rubber or Metal Strap Options
There are a handful of straps available to order with the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. A popular choice is the black rubber strap, which on the surface appears just like any standard black rubber strap with a stainless steel folding buckle, but when off the wrist, you’ll notice the underside is uniquely textured. The reverse surface has a stunning texture reminiscent of the surface of the moon. It’s a really nice touch and a nod to the Speedmaster’s iconic history.
The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch can also be ordered on a variety of comfortable NATO straps in several colors. Straps like this really help to elevate its vintage aesthetic. For a dressier look, you might prefer one of the leather straps, whether that be one of the smooth calfskin leather bands, shiny alligator leather, or perforated leather straps.
My personal favorite strap for the Omega Speedmaster is, without surprise, the metal bracelet. The five-row, pebble-like shape of the bracelet links is really beautiful, and the finishing varies depending on whether you opt for a Hesalite or sapphire crystal model. Those with Hesalite crystal are fully brushed, while the sapphire crystal references lean into its modern positioning by including polishing on the two smallest inner links.
Most Popular Omega Speedmaster Models
Now that you know all about the Omega Speedmaster, its history, and some of the defining characteristics that make a Speedmaster a true Speedmaster Moonwatch, you’re probably wondering which, out of the several models on the market, are the most popular. Without further ado, here’s the long-awaited answer…
Of all the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional watches on this list, this is the one I’d choose for myself. Why? Because this is the closest to the original as it gets. You’re getting the same black tachymeter bezel, 42mm wide steel case, a matte black dial with white printing and lume, and a manual winding movement. It also arrives on the five-row link bracelet and has the sapphire crystal glass on both the front and back. It’s a beautiful watch through and through, and anyone looking to start a watch collection off with a bang can’t go wrong with this, trust me! Price: $8,000
If you love the history behind the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch but you also want something a little dressier – or even a touch flashy -, we recommend the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronometer Moonshine Gold Green Dial. This stunning watch arrives fully engineered from the brand’s 18ct Moonshine gold – which includes the case back, crown, pushers, and bracelet. In contrast, the dial is colored in a deep emerald green to match the green ceramic bezel ring with an Omega Ceragold™ tachymeter scale. Price: $42,600
I already mentioned previously that the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional White Dial was another of my favorites. I love how a simple swap of the black and white colors on the dial has transformed a classic looking chronograph into an obvious motorsport-inspired piece. It’s incredibly legible thanks to the jet black hands and numerals and maintains its 42mm wide diameter, steel case, black tachymeter bezel and the 3861 manual winding movement. Price: $8,100.
The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional under reference 310.60.42.50.01.001 is another luxury option for those wanting something with a bit of oomph. This time around, it pairs its matte black dial with beautiful rose gold hardware and a matching Sedna™ Gold case and bracelet. I’ve always thought rose gold and black look great together on watches, and this is a perfect example. It’s dressy and sophisticated, yet it still manages to uphold the sporty personality of the Speedmaster name. Price: $42,600.
Last but certainly not least, we have an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional engineered from the Swiss watchmaker’s patented Canopus Gold™ material. This is one of those metals you have to see in person to appreciate. As well as being 100% noble, it boasts a beautiful brilliance and whiteness that makes it stand out against traditional white gold and stainless steel watches. The inclusion of the stepped silver dial gives it an almost completely monochromatic look, with just the black tachymeter scale standing out in a different hue. It’s another beautiful watch worthy of any watch collector’s wish list. Price: $55,500.
Should You Buy An Omega Speedmaster?
I’m not sure there’s an easier question to answer. Yes, you should absolutely buy an Omega Speedmaster – especially those in the dedicated Moonwatch collection. If you’re a watch enthusiast who appreciates brilliant history and exquisite craftsmanship, there are very few watches that will beat this. For many, it’s a “holy grail” watch, completing collections new and old. From its legendary journey to the moon to its mass of impressive technology inside, the Speedmaster will appeal to anyone with a passion for horology.
Omega Speedmaster Pricing & Availability
With there being so many Omega Speedmaster Moonwatches out here, the prices can vary depending on exactly which model you have in mind. The stainless steel references typically retail from around $6,600 while some of the full 18ct gold references with diamonds can sit with a price tag as large as $60,200. If budget is your issue, it’s definitely worth checking out authorized retailers like Exquisite Timepieces for the latest offers or heading to the second-hand market where you can find steel Speedys for around $4,000.
Conclusion
We hope this deep dive into the Omega Speedmaster has explained exactly why this watch is a true legend in the world of horology. Sure, the Rolex Submariner and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak are nice, but none of those can claim to be the first watch to set foot on the moon. And despite it being several decades old, it’s clear the Omega Speedmaster continues to captivate, both with its exciting history and its incredible design. This is a daily-beater watch with a story and plenty of high-tech to boot. What more could you want?
