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Many watch collectors, myself included, have a bucket list of holy grail watches we hope to own one day. For some, it’s popular designs like the Rolex Submariner or the Omega Speedmaster. For me, though, it’s the Grand Seiko Spring Drive. Why? Because this is one of those pieces of technology that is impossible to replicate. 

No other watch brand has designed a movement quite like this one – a movement that not just tells the time but tells it almost perfectly, and two – a movement that combines the best of both mechanical and quartz technology. 

But of course, with incredible technology often comes high price tags, and even though, when put into perspective, much of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive collection is very reasonably priced, it’s still out of reach for some. 

That said, there are a few designs in the collection that are the perfect entry-level pieces for those wanting to own a Spring Drive watch. One such model is the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439. It’s a watch that lacks very little in terms of design and technology and yet retails for less than $5,000. Shall we take a closer look? 

What is a Spring Drive Movement? 

Grand Seiko ultimately has three movement pillars to distinguish their watches. There are their 9F quartz models (some of the most accurate quartz watches in the world, I should add), their Hi-Beat models, and, of course, their Spring Drive watches. The latter is undoubtedly their best-known, for good reason. 

These are revolutionary watches that, in essence, use mechanical power as a reserve of energy with the help of a mainspring (a component used in all mechanical watches). The rotating wheel at the end of the gear train creates a small electrical charge that sends a signal to an integrated and quartz oscillator (the same used in quartz watches). 

It sounds complicated because it is. It’s a piece of proprietary technology Grand Seiko developed for several decades, first being initiated during the 1970s and later being launched in 1999, debuting at Baselworld that same year. 

The movement’s brilliance lies in a number of things, including its seconds hand, which is insanely smooth with a continuous motion – there’s none of that erratic ticking like a regular watch.

Spring Drive movements are also insanely accurate. To put it into perspective, even some of the most accurate mechanical watches on the market are rated between -4 to +6 seconds per day. The Grand Seiko Spring Drive, on the other hand, has an impressive tolerance of just +/- 1 second per day. 

Basically, you’re getting the accuracy of a quartz watch but with the artistry of mechanical watchmaking. It’s the best of both worlds in my opinion, and it’s for this reason so many watch collectors consider the Grand Seiko Spring Drive a prerequisite of a true luxury watch collection. 

OK, so back to the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive “Midnight Blue” SBGA439 watch. This model was first released in 2021 alongside four other entry-level Spring Drive watches with silver, white, or champagne-colored dials. 

As mentioned in the introduction, trailblazing technology often comes with a price tag to warrant it. Typically, Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches retail from between $6,000 and $7,000, so to find one within the $4,000 bracket has become a huge win for those of us working with a smaller budget.

A Refined Steel Case

You might think that since the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439 watch is one of the most affordable Spring Drive models in their portfolio, it will lack some of the luster and elegance of other designs in the collection. 

I thought that, too, honestly, but I was wrong. In fact, the SBGA439 wears just as beautifully as any other Spring Drive I’ve had the pleasure of trialing. It has a beautiful classic shape and wonderful dimensions that are going to suit pretty much any wrist size. 

It measures just 40mm wide, 12.3mm thick, and with a lug-to-lug width of 46.6mm. As someone with a five-and-a-half inch wrist, I typically max out watches at 40mm, but I have to admit, this model wears smaller than its dimensions suggest. And that’s not a bad thing. 

In fact, it’s incredibly compact, and I think that’s really down to the length of the case. It sits beautifully on my wrist, and yet I can just as easily imagine it on someone with a frame larger than myself. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439 presents all the high levels of finishing we’ve come to expect from the Japanese watchmaker. The interior plains of the lugs and bracelet links are brushed, while the rest of the design, including the case sides, bezel, and aggressive line facets running down the case length, are brightly polished. 

These are created using the company’s famous Zaratsu polishing, a process done completely by hand, requiring several years of training and insane levels of attention to detail. The mirror finish is certainly worth the effort. 

For a nice touch of vintage appeal, the watch is topped by double-domed sapphire crystal glass with an anti-reflective coating for excellent visibility. There’s also a screw-down crown at 3 o’clock, with slight knurled detailing, and the GS logo placed at the center in relief. The crown is ever so slightly recessed into the case for added protection without the need to add any bulky crown guards. 

Similarly, the case back is solid and embossed with the Grand Seiko logo and their legendary lion emblem. Both the case back and crown ensure a water resistance of 100 meters. The closed case back might be a letdown for some because it’s always nice to see the technology of the Spring Drive movement through a glass back, but minor sacrifices like this help keep the cost down. 

A Midnight Blue Dial 

If you’re even remotely familiar with Grand Seiko, then it’s very likely you’re aware that many of their dials are often patterned or intricately engraved. That’s not the case with the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA43 watch, however. Instead, the dial is kept simple and classic, yet somehow, it is still no less beautiful. 

It features this rich deep blue dial Grand Seiko called “Midnight Blue”. It has a subtle sunburst effect that radiates from the center of the display and creates this cool color-changing feature depending on the lighting conditions.

The dial appears royal blue in the bright light, and then, in darker areas, it seems almost pitch black. It’s a beautiful effect despite there being no obvious visual complexity. 

Of course, with this being a Grand Seiko dial, after all, the hardware placed at the center is not neglected by the brand’s hand-made craftsmanship. Every single hand and marker has been hand-finished by trained artisans to contribute their own element of light play.

Resting between the lined minute track in white, the large, hand-applied, and hand-polished hour markers glisten with every movement of the wrist. In a similar fashion, the hands are faceted and sharply finished, with the seconds hand freely rotating with not a single jump or splutter in sight – all thanks to the Spring Drive movement. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA43 watch does offer two complications. The first is the box-shaped date window at 3 o’clock, replacing its respective hour marker with a polished silver border and a nice color-matching date wheel. 

The other is the power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, printed in white with its own silver hand to showcase its remaining power. From there, the only other dial details are the Grand Seiko logos beneath the double 12 o’clock index and white ink lettering at 6 o’clock to denote the movement inside.

A Spring Drive Movement

Powering the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive “Midnight Blue” SBGA43 watch is the Caliber 9R65 Spring Drive movement. This is easily one of the better-known and most popular Spring Drive movements on the market, as it keeps things “simple” with just time, date, and power reserve. It’s still a world-class movement, and this is one of the reasons why this model is such a compelling point of value in the broader Grand Seiko lineup.

It delivers that silently and unbelievably smooth gliding seconds hand at the center and an accuracy of one second per day, or 15 seconds per month. It also boasts a weekend-proof 72-hour power reserve, so you can confidently take the watch off on a Friday and return it to your wrist on Monday, knowing it’ll still be keeping perfect time. Plus, the power reserve is on show on the dial, so it’s easy to keep track of when the watch might need a few hours of wear.

A Simple Steel Strap

Securing the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive “Midnight Blue” SBGA439 watch to the wrist is a bracelet we don’t often see from the Japanese watchmaker. It’s a standard, simply executed oyster-style bracelet with three links and a 20mm lug width. 

It has the same combination of brushed and polished surfaces as many of GS’s bracelets, but it doesn’t have the signature polished middle links. It’s still a beautiful, solid-looking, and feeling bracelet but does have a little less pizzazz than those with the added polishing. 

The bracelet tapers down to a push-button folding clasp decorated with the GS logo in relief. The lugs are drilled, so strap changes are easy, and with its 20mm lug width, you’ll have no trouble finding replacement straps elsewhere. 

Since it’s a standard Grand Seiko clasp, don’t expect to find any micro adjustment here. It does arrive with screws and half links, though, so a good level of close adjustment is still possible.

On-Wrist Experience 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439 watch is one of those watches I’d recommend to almost anybody. The Spring Drive technology inside speaks for itself, and its combination of finishing, dial color, and dimensions make it one of the most versatile daily beaters from Grand Seiko. 

It has excellent wearability thanks to its 40mm width and relatively thin 12.3mm height. It sits even smaller than its width suggests, too, keeping comfy and compact thanks to the 46.6mm lug to lug. 

I’d confidently say that anyone with wrists as small as five-and-a-half inches can effortlessly pull off this watch, and it looks just as fantastic on wrists up to eight inches. Even if you have a larger frame but love the elegance of a smaller watch, this piece can still shine. Its slender profile makes it ideal for formal occasions, easily slipping under shirt cuffs. 

The rich blue dial color is also perfect for these occasions, adding a touch of sophistication and depth that enhances its overall elegance. It’s one of those watches that transitions between an everyday timepiece and a dress watch, perfect for those who want to invest in a good quality all-rounder. 

Price & Availability 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439 watch is one of the most affordable Spring Drive offerings from the Japanese luxury watch brand, retailing for just $4,800. 

This will never not be an impressive price, especially when you take into account the high levels of detail, the hand-finishing, and, of course, the groundbreaking Spring Drive movement. Just be sure to order yours from an authorized Grand Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces to ensure you receive a genuine watch with all the official paperwork and warranty. 

The model can also be found on the second hand market for around $3,500 and $4,000 if you’re interested. It’s a permanent addition to Grand Seiko’s Heritage Spring Drive collection, so we don’t expect it to be disappearing anytime soon.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive “Midnight Blue” SBGA439 watch is one of those watches I truly believe not enough people know about. When you type Spring Drive into a search engine, you’ll instantly become inundated with examples of some of the Japanese brand’s more expensive models and conclude that these are watches you can’t afford. But that’s just not the case. 

Grand Seiko does boast an impressive line-up of entry-level Spring Drive models and the SBGA439 is one of the best. If you want a highly accurate timepiece with a flawless sweeping seconds hand, hand-finishing detailing, compact dimensions and a mesmerizing deep blue dial, you’ll struggle to find anything better than the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439.

After testing and reviewing several Grand Seiko watches, I’ve grown accustomed to a particular style—sleek, compact, and elegant. The pieces I’ve worn are mostly ones you’d expect to see on formal occasions. I wouldn’t call them dainty, but there’s definitely a refined, dressier feel to many watches in the Grand Seiko catalog. 

If there’s one thing Grand Seiko excels at, it’s evolving while maintaining its signature quality. To reach a wider audience, the brand expanded its collection to include sports watches that match the elegance of its dress pieces. At the same time, it continues to innovate, improving its in-house movements with precise complications like chronographs and GMTs. 

Since 2010, GS has gained worldwide popularity for its variety of sports watches. These watches have shed the delicacy of dress watches and adopted a more robust and rugged look, all while maintaining the elegance that made Grand Seiko the household name it is today. 

While browsing through a variety of sports watch options, one model stood out as a true champion among heavyweights—the SBGE277. I often associate Grand Seiko pieces with art, but I can’t overstate the brilliance that radiates from this exquisite watch. Much like a masterpiece in the Louvre, the SBGE277 can only be fully appreciated in person.

History

As touched upon earlier, the developers at Grand Seiko believed that to become a legitimate contender in the watchmaking world dominated by Swiss manufacturers, they needed to expand their collection. In 2002, GS produced an instant classic with the SBGM001. 

The SBGM001 was the first Grand Seiko model to feature the 9S56 movement, marking the brand’s introduction of a GMT complication. With its black dial and striking red GMT hand, this watch made waves upon release for its design, functionality, and precision.

The 2010s marked a new chapter for Grand Seiko with the launch of the Sports Collection. The brand expanded beyond dress watches, introducing chronograph and GMT models, including some limited editions. This shift into tool watches helped Grand Seiko break the mold and gain recognition in international markets.

After an impressive showcase at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, Grand Seiko kept the momentum going by announcing another wave of releases. Among them was the SBGE277, launched in May 2022. This timepiece boasts a commanding wrist presence, featuring a striking black dial and housing the remarkable in-house Caliber 9R65 movement.

Case

Every rugged dive watch requires a solid and durable case, and the SBGE277 delivers precisely that. As one of the larger GMT models in Grand Seiko’s lineup, it measures 44mm in diameter, 14.77mm thick, and has a lug-to-lug width of 50.8mm.

The watch’s double-domed sapphire crystal fits nicely into the case and doesn’t stick out as much, giving it a shallow, snug look. The screw-down crown is placed conveniently at the 4 o’clock marker.

Perhaps my favorite feature of this Grand Seiko GMT is the bezel. The last time I reviewed a GS GMT, it lacked a rotating bezel. It almost sounds childish, but as soon as I got my hands on the SBGE277, my fingers wrapped around the bezel and began rotating away.

The SBGE277 features a beautifully designed half-black, half-white bidirectional sapphire bezel. The action of the rotating bezel is smooth, and the satisfying click as it turns makes up for the silence of the Spring Drive movement. (Not to knock Grand Seiko’s innovative Caliber 9R66, but I have a soft spot for the ticking sound of traditional watches.)

As someone with a smaller wrist, the idea of wearing a GMT can be daunting. When I read the specs of the SBGE277, especially its 44mm diameter, I was already bracing myself for disappointment, expecting yet another oversized horological beauty that just wouldn’t fit.

But once again, I was proven wrong by the master craftsmen and women at the Grand Seiko Studios. The stainless steel case tapers inward, making the watch feel more like a 40mm than a 44mm. The curved lugs also hug the wrist, making the SBGE277 surprisingly comfortable to wear.

With a blend of Zaratsu polishing and brushed finishing, the SBGE277 offers the ability to track three different time zones and boasts 200 meters of water resistance. It’s the ideal combination of sporty and elegant—exactly what you’d expect from Grand Seiko.

Dial

Grand Seiko is renowned for creating dials that are nothing short of remarkable. Whether it’s the color, intricate details, or textured finishes, it’s no surprise that GS consistently delivers some of the finest dials in the industry.

Seeing a picture of the SBGE277 online doesn’t do it justice. I may be exaggerating slightly, but to truly appreciate the beauty and craftsmanship of this dial, you need to see it in person.

At the foot of the Hotaka Mountains lies the Shinshu Watch Studio, where Grand Seiko designs, produces, and adjusts all Spring Drive-powered watches. The SBGE277’s black textured dial is a tribute to this volcanic mountain range, inspired by the rugged beauty of the Hotaka peaks.

A bit reminiscent of the SBGE201 and its jet-black dial, the SBGE277 has a black dial filled with intricate details, staying true to Grand Seiko’s nature-inspired theme. Like the volcanic rock of Mt. Hotaka, the dial resembles obsidian, playing with light as it reflects off its surface.

The inner rehaut mirrors the outer bezel, featuring black and white odd-numbered markers. As expected, the silver Grand Seiko logo sits below the 12 o’clock marker, while the red GMT lettering and Spring Drive reminder in white are positioned just above the 6 o’clock marker.

The red GMT hand is a bold and striking feature, standing out beautifully against the black dial and adding an extra layer of visual appeal to the already stunning design. The hour and minute hands are exquisitely polished, while the seconds hand glides smoothly around the dial, thanks to the Caliber 9R66.

A power reserve indicator is neatly positioned between the 8 and 9 markers, providing a valuable reminder for when to manually wind the watch. Additionally, there’s a slim date window at the 4 o’clock position.

I saved my favorite detail for last. While a watch under light is beautiful, a watch you can rely on in the dark is even better. At its core, the SBGE277 is a tool watch, and its incredible lume ensures you can quickly tell the time, whether you’re diving or simply in a dark room.

The dauphine hands, indices at 3, 6, 9, and 12, and the outer bezel all feature LumiBrite for enhanced visibility. Thanks to the sapphire crystal covering the bezel, the luminescence extends around the edge, illuminating the watch’s notable and functional details.

Movement

With the high torque of a mechanical watch and the high precision of a quartz watch, Grand Seiko developed an in-house movement that combined the two mechanisms. Their creation would stun the world and solidify the brand as one of the world’s elite watchmakers. 

The Spring Drive movement was the result of a 20-year journey to create a watch that could be considered a representation of time itself. Silent and continuous, this revolutionary movement debuted in 1999 and set forth a groundbreaking new era for Grand Seiko. 

Round and round it goes, never stopping in a continuous flow—what am I? The answer to this little riddle could be time itself, but it could just as easily be the seconds hand on a Spring Drive Caliber 9R65 Grand Seiko, first introduced in 2004.

The SBGE277 is powered by the Caliber 9R66. The successor of the 9R65, the Caliber 9R66 is the first Spring Drive with a GMT compilation. 

Precision has always been a core goal for Grand Seiko, and the SBGE277 delivers with remarkable accuracy, offering a deviation of ±1 seconds per day and ±15 seconds per month. 

The crown plays a crucial role in the functionality of the 9R66 movement, allowing for manual winding to power the watch. As you wind it, the power reserve indicator on the dial moves accordingly, letting you know how much energy is stored. With a 72-hour power reserve, the watch can run for several days before needing to be wound again.

Pulling the crown to its second position allows you to adjust the hour hand independently, making it easy for travelers to set the local time without disrupting the sweeping hand.

With its unparalleled accuracy, time-hacking capabilities, and mesmerizing sweeping seconds hand, the Caliber 9S66 that powers the SBGE277 elevates this already impressive entry in the Grand Seiko lineup. The elegant yet bold design of the case, the layered, textured dial, and the seamless flow of the second hand all come together to create a cohesive and striking timepiece.

Bracelet

The SBGE277 features a beautifully crafted stainless steel bracelet, showcasing the classic Grand Seiko three-link design. The polished inner links contrast elegantly with the brushed outer links, creating a striking balance. From the side, the links appear rounded and polished to perfection, producing a stunning shine that adds to the watch’s overall appeal.

The bracelet is equipped with screwed-in links, making it easy to remove and adjust for a thinner wrist. And if the lack of links feels uncomfortable or looks unbalanced, don’t worry! The clasp offers four micro-adjustment settings, giving you extra flexibility to achieve the perfect fit.

The term “strap monster” refers to a watch’s versatility when it comes to pairing with different straps and bracelets, and the SBGE277 fits this description perfectly. Its design allows it to shine no matter the strap choice.

With the SBGE277’s 21mm band width, strap options may be somewhat limited, but the drilled holes in the lugs make swapping straps a breeze—and, if you’re anything like me, it can become addictive!

On The Wrist

The SBGE277 was one of the larger watches I’ve tested, and that’s exactly what drew me to it. Could I make this horological titan fit comfortably on my smaller wrist?

For anyone with small wrist syndrome, the answer is yes. Thanks to the engineering brilliance of the Shinshu Watch Studio, Grand Seiko has mastered the art of creating timepieces that are “more than meets the eye.”

Despite its 44mm size, this watch feels more like a 40mm on the wrist. I was genuinely dumbfounded by how comfortable it was once I got it strapped on, though it did take me a while to adjust it properly—something I’ll explain shortly.

The angles of the case allow it to sit snugly on any wrist. Thanks to the micro-adjustments, the watch stayed perfectly in place without sliding or shifting around. It felt nothing like I expected, which makes me wonder if the craftsmen and women at Grand Seiko specifically designed this case to accommodate smaller wrists.

The obsidian dial is truly a marvel, and at the moment, it’s my favorite. While I haven’t had the chance to test many watches, the SBGE277 carries a distinct attitude. It’s rugged, bold, and hefty. The more I wore it, the more I felt like this was the least “Grand Seiko” Grand Seiko I’ve worn.

The sporty nature of the SBGE277 allowed me to do something I thought I’d never do with a Grand Seiko—out of pure respect for their artistry and craftsmanship. I changed the strap not once, not twice, but five times, switching between NATO straps, leather, and back to the original bracelet.

I felt like I was committing a sin, but the truth is, the SBGE277 was a fun watch to experiment with (of course, with caution since this was a test run). It’s a stylish brute of elegance, and even when it felt less formal, the intricacies and details always reminded me that this was still a Grand Seiko.

Price

The Grand Seiko SBGE277 is being sold at a retail price of $6,200, with pre-owned models typically ranging from $3,800 to $4,000. This remarkable watch is currently available at Exquisite Timepieces.

Closing Thoughts

Shed any preconceived notion of the Grand Seiko dress watch standard. The SBGE277 is a Grand Seiko masterclass in pushing boundaries. It consistently offers something new to admire every time you wear it. If you plan to get your first GMT or plan to add another one to your collection, stop searching and consider this: the likelihood of wearing a GMT that is as technologically advanced and tough as the SGBE277 is very, very slim. If the black volcanic dial doesn’t pique your interest, the lume doesn’t spark something in you, or the Spring Drive fails to move you, then stick to your run-of-the-mill GMTs. The SBGE277 is a watch for those who know, and if you know, you know. 

If you consider yourself a fan of Grand Seiko watches, there is no disputing that you’ll have admired the tapestry of design elements, techniques, and traditional processes that the watchmakers of this company endure to create such spectacular creations. 

But have you ever really, I mean really, taken the time to immerse yourself in Grand Seiko’s philosophy – the spirit of Takumi? It’s where the seeds are sown for every innovation, including the SBGK017. The beating hearts (the movements) of these timepieces, created under the Takumi practice, are all inspired by the Nature of Time and, as the namesake suggests, take cues from nature around us.

The History of the SBGK017

Grand Seiko released the SBGK017 in 2022 as part of its Elegance Collection. It takes inspiration from Nanbu Tekki ironware. This traditional style of metalwork originated from the Iwate District during Japan’s Edo period. 

The watch belongs to a series renowned for its ornate dials and elevating Zaratsu polishing technique. In this article, we’re going to delve into the finer details of the SBGK017. First, let’s look at how this classic dress watch came to be.  

Grand Seiko’s penchant for creating highly sophisticated, technical, and beautiful timepieces originates from Japan’s unwavering obsession to compete with Western watchmakers. It was this innate drive that Grand Seiko owes its success to. 

Japan had been working towards becoming more independent, undergoing rapid industrialization following the Meiji Restoration of 1868. Its approach to watchmaking was gradual and subtle up until World War II. Before then, the Swiss held a 50% share of the global watch market and were supplying almost 70% of watch components to Japan.

Swiss dominance continued throughout the Second World War, while many other countries focused on war efforts. After the war, Japan focussed on researching Swiss watchmaking techniques and exploring the tools, methods, and machinery the country used in the art and practice of quintessential Haute Horlogerie. 

During this time, the founder of Seiko, Kintaro Hattori, opened two factories that would compete internally with one another. One produced the King Seiko model. The other manufactured the Grand Seiko.

This inter-brand rivalry would eventually culminate in both companies achieving the gold standard in most chronometer trials rolled out across Switzerland. Seiko became a serious contender in manufacturing accurate, technically sophisticated, yet classical-looking watches, producing innovations on par with the Swiss. The company’s quartz technology arrived during the 1960s, revolutionizing the future of watchmaking.

Catastrophically, the Swiss Market dropped in shares from 40% to 10% by the 1980s, while Japanese brands, including Casio and Citizen, soared to success. 

The market for affordable digital wristwatches had exploded, with LEDs that gave way to LCD technology, promising longer battery life than ever before. However, the Japanese market stagnated in the 1990s due to the rise of Chinese production. To diversify its higher-end offerings, Grand Seiko re-launched itself in the late 2000s.

In 2017, it would become a fully independent sub-brand. Its focus remained to create the “ideal watch” – a symbol of refinement and technical elegance. This came just a year after the brand launched its first black ceramic watch and the 8-day power reserve Spring Drive movement. The Grand Seiko name moved from 6 o’clock to the very top of the dial, symbolizing its journey to full independence.

Subsequently, Grand Seiko watches became more elevated, more refined, and more superior. They began featuring beautiful hand-engraved dials, jewellery-like masterpieces, and models that boasted movements that were more precise and powerful than ever before.

However, it was in 2019 when Grand Seiko watches gained a new identity. The Elegance Collection introduced a new design direction for the manufacturer. 

These models promised the strength and resilience to be worn every day but the grace and finesse to bring sophistication to every eventuality. Despite bridging the gap between classic and contemporary, some models pay homage to milestone models from the brand’s past.

Over the last few years, the collection has expanded to accommodate some very special timepieces that demonstrate exceptional craftsmanship. Watches from this collection lean into the dressier side of watchmaking. 

The dials are free from any intricate complications, instead offering simpler features like a date or GMT function. The displays are also clean and classic, lending to a very universal palette.

It makes sense that the only naysayers of the Grand Seiko name are those who tend to have had very little time on the wrist with them. I dare say that to fully appreciate the palpable beauty of a watch from the Elegance Collection like the SBGK017; one does have to shake hands with the timepiece and really get to know it. 

Upon doing so, you’ll quickly come to realize that Grand Seiko watches are every bit as beautiful as collectors say they are. The Elegance Collection SBGK017 watch is most deserving of this reputation and is no exception to the rule, as you’re about to find out.

The Case

Let’s get the basics out of the way first…

The Proportions

The Grand Seiko SBGK017 has a diameter of 39mm and a case depth of 11.6mm. The lug-to-lug measurement of the case is 44mm, and the watch is also 30-meter water resistant. It takes on the style of those watches belonging to the brand’s Thin Dress Series with a relatively slim profile, enabling it to slip easily under the cuff of a shirt. 

Its slim case will favor the watch well when it comes to pairing it with elegant evening attire or an office suit. The model features an exhibition caseback that grants a clear view of the working movement inside (we’ll get to that bit later), along with a non-screw-down crown.

Here’s where the case design gets interesting, however. The underside of the case is concave in shape, allowing the watch to sit closer to the skin. Grand Seiko specialists design this case with comfort in mind. 

Subtle, discreet details like this really do go a long way to achieving a more ergonomic fit for everyday wear. Unlike, say, the 44GS watches, for example – this model is anything but aggressive and sharp. Instead, its soft and flowing curves bring about an organic structure, allowing it to wrap nicely around the smaller-than-average male wrist.

The Zaratsu Case Polish

If you’ve spent a considerable amount of time with Grand Seiko watches before, you’ll know that the Zaratsu polishing technique is an exclusive and highly distinguishable feature of the famous Japanese brand’s watches. But this signature style didn’t just come overnight. It took the brand several years to research, trialing many different techniques until this exquisite and unique-looking execution was finally mastered. 

By perfecting the technique of Zaratsu polishing, Grand Seiko experts were able to achieve flat, smooth surfaces without any undesirable light distortion. Rather than softening the angle of the ridge that forms where two planes meet, GS craftsmen shelved the idea of buffing and instead turned to the skill of Zaratsu. 

Despite the refinement of CNC machining and cold forging, the completion of a Grand Seiko case still requires the expert skills of artisans who can sand a case, buff it until it’s smooth, and then finish it with the Zaratsu polish. As you can imagine, not everyone can be trusted with such a role.

The word “Zaratsu” takes its name from the company that owned the machinery that created this magnificent case finish. The execution is achieved by holding a moving surface firmly while facing it head-on towards a rotating disc clad with sandpaper. The result is an extraordinarily smooth surface. 

To bring the surface up to a mirror-polished effect, a final buffing is applied to the metal. The complexity of this process is often underestimated by enthusiasts. While Zaratsu polishing gives the watch a distinctive edge over other high-end competitors, there are hurdles to overcome. 

While one section may be polished beautifully, the left and right sides of the case may be uneven. The only way to tackle the problem is to increase the pressure that holds the surface against the wheel while checking the entire piece over.  It’s both an art form and a responsibility that only a few can master.

The Glass and Crown

The double-domed sapphire crystal in this Grand Seiko SBGK017 is quite pronounced. It looks raised and box-like, capturing a subtle vintage charm. Combined with the lug-to-lug measurement and a depth of nearly 12mm, the glass undoubtedly contributes to these crowd-pleasing proportions. 

One particular feature that collectors seem to love about this watch is the refinements of the winding crown. When winding up the watch, the crown stamped with the iconic Seiko logo is butter-smooth under the fingertips, adding to that all-important premium feel. A directional brushing on the sides of the case was mixed with the mirror-polished technique, too. 

You may not be able to venture into deep waters with this 30-meter water-resistant watch, but this is not a style you’ll likely want to do that with. Nevertheless, Grand Seiko experts do a superb job of combining all the features you need in a dressy, all-around daily beater.

The Dial

The dial is probably where this Grand Seiko watch differentiates itself the most when compared to other designs in the collection. The dial has become the signature feature of some of the most highly desirable GS watches, and many from this series are inspired by nature. Take the iconic snowflake-inspired dials, those that mimic falling blossoms or those that feature organic, earthy colors, for example.

There is a concentric and almost patisserie-like style to this dial. The pattern, which starts large at the periphery of the dial, gets gradually smaller as the layers work toward the center of the display. The effect is almost spiral-like. 

The multi-faceted markers also taper. And this is not a dial you’d instantly associate with nature because, this time, Grand Seiko doesn’t draw inspiration from the great outdoors. Instead, the dial is inspired by the textures found in the traditional Japanese art of Nanbu Tekki.

Nanbu Tekki is an age-old form of ironwork, common from the 1600s right through to the 1800s. As this is a manmade artform, rather than inspiration taken from nature, it makes for a particularly unique dial from Grand Seiko. This dial represents an age of classicism, which is very fitting considering the collection it belongs to. 

The textured dial is finished with facetted hands and a tapering needle-like hand for the power reserve indicator. As mentioned, the small seconds feature resides at 9 o’clock, giving more space and focus to the simple timekeeping elements of the dial.  

Upon looking even closer at the dial, I noticed that the tip of the minute hand has a slight curvature to comply with the curve of the dial. This cleverly rids the dial of any distortion when looking in at it from the side. This is a really nice touch because it’s not a design feature we see in many modern watches today.

The Movement 

The Calibre 9S63 was produced in 2019 as part of the 9S series, constituting a tried and tested movement that has proved incredibly reliable over the years. The mechanical manual movement has an impressive 72-hour power reserve once fully wound, enabling it to keep perfect time when you’re alternating the watch with other favorites in your collection. 

With an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds a day, the movement comprises 33 jewels for a smooth performance and has undergone an extensive regulation process that goes far beyond the standards we associate with those outside the METAS testing institute. 

The arrival of the Calibre 9S63 was an important one since it marked the first update within the 9S series in terms of a non-Spring Drive Calibre in 8 years. The reason for the wait stemmed from a complete overhaul of the movement and a redesign. 

It featured a small second sub-dial at 9 o’clock and a power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. Now, with 20% more components than before, this new generation 9S movement is a complete in-house effort. 

Painstaking efforts have been made to execute this movement. Even the grooves between each gear tooth have been polished by a watchmaker, one by one, to avoid friction. Fabricated parts of the movement are engineered by Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems (MEMS) technology, and tolerances of one-thousandth of a millimeter are tested and approved before the movement is fitted to the heart of the SBGK017.

The Bracelet 

Grand Seiko equips the SBGK017 model with a stylish 9-link bracelet that almost leans into Milanese bracelet territory. The links, although quite elongated, are packed tight into the design, enabling you to get a snug fit against the wrist despite the absence of a micro-adjustment feature. 

This model also comes with an additional black alligator leather strap and a stainless steel buckle to match the case design. The Seiko logo has been engraved into the fastening, doubling up as a symbol of authenticity and quality craftsmanship. 

The bracelet begins at 19mm at the lug end and then slowly transitions into a slightly slimmer clasp end, measuring in at 18mm. Tapering bracelets do, of course, create the impression of a smaller and more manageable fit on the wrist. Those collectors with wrists measuring on the smaller side will appreciate this element of the bracelet’s design.

As with every high-end purchase, a collector is going to want all the little trimmings that come with a special purchase like this, and Grand Seiko knows this. The manufacturer includes the paperwork outlining the regulations of the watch, which I think is a really nice touch. Of course, you also get the instructions booklet and the warranty certificate, along with a genuine Grand Seiko presentation box to keep the watch safe.

How does it wear?

You’ll recall that earlier in this review, I mentioned that the SBGK017 belongs to the Thin Dress Series of the Evolution 9 concept. This collection launched back in 2019 with an intentional and purposeful design language – to wear at every opportunity. So, it’s not like these dress watches should be reserved for the finest of occasions. Moreover, the watch makes every occasion feel the finest.

As I also mentioned, the 39mm case is compact, which lends itself well to smaller-wristed males, as does the tapering bezel. The domed dial and curving minute hand, not to mention the concave underside of the case, all make for a comfortable and ergonomic fit on the wrist.

Price and Availability

If you love the impeccable finishing on a Grand Seiko watch as much as I do, you’ll agree that watches like this are every bit worth their price tag. You’ll struggle to find a similar case finishing for this price category elsewhere on the market. 

The watch has a richness and a depth to it that feels high-end, but when you compare it with some more expensive mechanical options out there, the level of finishing is much more superior. The Grand Seiko SBGK017 is priced at $8,900, which, if you ask me, is hard to argue with.

Conclusion 

The Grand Seiko SBGK017 is a well-executed and truly great design, especially if you’re looking for a brand that will give you that high-end feel but without the five-figure price tag.

The refined movement, with components made from anti-shock and anti-magnetic alloys, is resistant to magnetic damage and able to deliver incredible accuracy inside slim proportions. The Zaratsu polishing and brushing techniques are a nice blend. 

They add depth to the design, not to mention a high-end feel. The classic black dial is sure to pair well with all attire, and the case itself is geared towards those who struggle with larger watches sitting within the 41mm+ category.

On the whole, this is another stellar example of Grand Seiko’s Elegance Collection DNA. Ideal for wearing as a sophisticated companion with evening attire, you also have the chance to change the metal band over to something more casual from Grand Seiko’s strap range or, indeed, the additional black alligator leather strap it comes with.

Grand Seiko, the pride of Japan, is often heralded as horologically innovative—in part due to their incredible Spring Drive movements—and, of course, for their utter dedication to putting out timepieces with finishing that surpasses watches costing two to three times as much. 

The SBGR325 is not powered by Spring Drive; it actually has a mechanical movement! And let’s just get this out of the way: the dial is incredible, the finishing is incredible, the watch IS incredible. I have lusted over a Grand Seiko for some time, and in considering which piece might be best, the SBGR325 quickly rose to the top of my list.

History

The Grand Seiko SBGR325 is part of its esteemed Heritage Collection, paying homage to the 1967 introduction of the 44GS, a watch that established modern, angular, and masculine Grand Seiko styling. In 2023, Grand Seiko marked the 25th anniversary of its game-changing caliber 9S with special edition watches from the Heritage collection. These models feature dials that take inspiration from the shifting skies over Mount Iwate. 

Paying tribute to the first-ever GS watch that sported the in-house 9S mechanical movement, designed by Nobuhiro Kosugi back in 1998, the Grand Seiko SBGR325 comes in the same sleek case design with a compact 37mm diameter. Oh, and they’re super exclusive—only 1,200 pieces will be made!

Case 

“I like them a lot—they are just too big for me.” I’m sure many who work at a Grand Seiko boutique have heard these words before. I am sure many of you who are familiar with the watch enthusiast community have either heard or said a similar phrase, too. But things are quickly changing over at Grand Seiko and throughout the watch industry. 

Maisons are listening, whether it be through social media, the algorithm, or just word of mouth. Alterations to models are happening at a faster pace than ever before, and if you think about it, it makes perfect sense. They want to build what the people want, and in doing so, they’ll sell more watches. Sound logic.

The SBGR325 features a 37mm case diameter and a thickness of 13.3mm. Don’t raise a brow at the watch’s 13.3mm thickness; this is in part due to the beautiful domed sapphire crystal. On my 6.5-inch wrist, this watch felt amazing. 

I’d been looking at the SBGA415, which is also part of Grand Seiko’s Heritage collection but with a slightly larger case diameter of 40mm. I know 3mm is a small number, but I really did feel a night-and-day difference in trying on both watches at the same boutique. It just fits me better, plain and simple. If you have small to medium-sized wrists, this watch is the Grand Seiko for you. 

The finishing on the case alternates between Zaratsu polished and brushed surfaces, and the conical bezel is fully polished. See-through caseback gives a glimpse into the beautiful 9S65 movement with a custom titanium blue rotor. Finally, a fluted crown makes for easy winding and time adjustment. All in all, this is a beautiful package!

Dial 

True artistry is inspired, and Grand Seiko has never kept a secret about where it draws inspiration: from the beautiful nature surrounding its two studios—one in Iwate, the other in Shinshu. The SBGR325 takes inspiration from the shifting skies over Mount Iwate. This offers a breathtaking sky-blue, some might even call it an on-trend Tiffany blue that you have to see in person to fully appreciate. The rendered images and even the high-quality photography fail to do this timepiece justice! 

The applied GS logo in gold offers a wonderful contrast, and the heat-treated second hand gracefully floats around the dial. Some watch aficionados decry Grand Seiko’s insistence on destroying dial symmetry with power reserve indicators (which I actually love, but that’s neither here nor there), and they will be happy to see that such an indicator has not been included on this watch. They may, however, scoff at the date window, which is not color-matched, nor does it do anything to help the symmetry of the watch.

Movement 

The 9S65 in-house automatic movement is beautiful to look at with its high-level detailed finishing. Where it truly shines, though, is in its power reserve, boasting a whopping 80 hours (up from the 55 hours of the previous generation 9S). While this might not seem that high, it’s impressive, considering it’s a Hi-Beat movement that runs at 36,000 vph and has excellent tolerances (+5/-3 seconds per day). 

The new 9S65 caliber features a very energy-efficient escapement and a new free-sprung balance specially designed for this movement. This new design allows for higher accuracy over longer periods of time while offering superior shock and friction resistance. Additionally, Grand Seiko kept it very thin, making it 15% slimmer than other 9S Hi-Beat calibers. 

The Grand Seiko SBGR325 has an exhibition sapphire case back, allowing you to enjoy observing the beautifully finished 9SA5 caliber. When I first held the watch in hand, I was mesmerized by the finishing—and also by the movement of the second hand, which seemed to effortlessly glide around the dial, almost as smoothly as a spring drive.

Straps 

We’ve all heard how Grand Seiko bracelets are a step behind the competition. The rumor mill hints at a possible micro-adjustment clasp being released in the future, but as of now, you get a standard butterfly clasp without fine-adjustment. The SBGR325 bracelet is a standard, stainless steel Grand Seiko bracelet, which means it is “good enough.” 

Some argue, and rightfully so, that where Grand Seiko excels in finishing, movement technology, and dial, they fall short on their bracelets. The SBGR325 felt “good enough” on my wrist, and that’s not to say that it is a bad bracelet, but I think I would probably prefer this on a blue, gray, or even a brown leather strap. 

The 20mm lug width offers the wearer ease in finding alternative straps, and the inclusion of drilled lugs facilitates easier strap changes. So the bracelet is not the SBGR325’s strongest feature, but it functions well enough for a luxury wristwatch.

On-Wrist Experience 

Sublime. If I could just write one word for the on-wrist experience of the SBGR325 and leave it at that, the word would be sublime. Yes, watches are trending a bit smaller these days, but I’ve always been perfectly happy with the prospect of a 40mm Grand Seiko. But then I tried on this 37mm watch, and I fell in love. 

I wasn’t constantly rearranging the watch, and I wasn’t aware that it was even on my wrist. And then I’d look down, and there it was, its distinct dial reminding me that the sky’s the limit, that artistry, and craftsmanship are something to be celebrated and passed down from generation to generation, that good things do come in small packages. 

The SBGR325 offers classic wristwatch dimensions with a playful and meditative splash of color. Here’s a watch that you can effortlessly wear with formal attire. It would also go with a pair of shorts and a T-shirt for grilling and chilling on a Saturday afternoon with friends. The salesman who helped me with the watch was smiling because he knew that I had found a keeper. 

He told me that customers have been raving about the on-wrist experience and that this model was an extremely popular release. Unfortunately, I kept the plastic safe in my wallet, my wife’s voice echoing in my head, “No more watches.” I don’t know how long I can go without, but the SBGR325 is now at the top of my Grand Seiko wishlist! 

Price & Availability 

The SBGR325 is available at all authorized dealers of Grand Seiko and has an MSRP of $5,300. If you are seeking a Grand Seiko SBGR325, there is no better place to purchase one than Exquisite Timepieces. At Exquisite Timepieces, we’re renowned for our expertise in luxury timepieces and our enduring partnerships with esteemed brands like Grand Seiko. 

As an authorized dealer of Grand Seiko, we have the expertise and experience to answer any questions you may have. We also have an extensive collection of Grand Seiko models. Feel free to explore our curated collection online or experience the exclusive range available at our boutique in Naples, Florida. Every order from Grand Seiko includes complimentary delivery and comprehensive insurance, ensuring your luxury watch arrives securely. 

Of course, there are other places to purchase a Grand Seiko timepiece, such as an online marketplace or on various watch forums, but with millions upon millions of inauthentic watches in circulation, the safest place to purchase any high-end timepiece is always a reputable dealer such as Exquisite Timepieces. 

Purchasing from an authorized dealer such as Exquisite Timepieces also ensures that you receive Grand Seiko’s full factory warranty: a phenomenal five years from the date of purchase.

Put your mind at ease, and let us do the legwork for you!

Conclusion 

You’ve been meaning to scratch that Grand Seiko itch—I mean, who hasn’t? And if you are reading this article and have yet to step into a boutique, do yourself a favor. Go have your mind blown by watches that rival the finest this industry has to offer, oftentimes at a fraction of the premium. 

I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again: Pictures do not do these watches justice. They simply have to be felt on the wrist. Their dials beg for a closer, almost meditative inspection. And the light-play—gosh. You can’t fully appreciate the artistry that goes into Zaratsu polishing unless you’ve seen the light-play in person.

All in all, Grand Seiko continues to impress with their release of the SBGR325. Sure, their bracelet is in sore need of an upgrade, and a color-matching date wheel would have been nice, but overall this is a watch with timeless sizing, profound artistry, and state-of-the-art technology. You simply can’t go wrong.

Personally, I’m an analog watch guy. Nothing beats an old-school timepiece. Having said that, there is no denying the usefulness of a smartwatch and although it’s not my daily wrist companion, I do own one. 

Among the smartwatch brands, Apple is one of the most popular. When it comes to tech, the company has an enormous fan base, and the watches are no exception. Apple has stepped on the toes of smaller competitors in the recent past and has been accused of stealing employees and technology. You may have heard that Apple watch sales have been banned in the U.S. 

Understandably, this is an area of concern for Apple lovers who are in the market for a new watch. Is it true? The simple answer is yes. This doesn’t mean you can’t buy any Apple watch in the U.S. There’s a bit more to it than that. Let’s get into the how, why, and when.

All About the Apple Watch Lawsuit

Perhaps the best features of smartwatches are their fitness and health apps. Tracking steps, calories burned, pulse rate, sleep quality, and other health-related issues is enormously useful. Tech of this type is an excellent tool in the battle to maintain a healthy body. 

The health-monitoring features of smart watches continue to evolve, and it’s almost like wearing a doctor on your wrist. It is in this aspect of smart technology that Apple ran into trouble.

Released in 2020, the Apple Series 6 smartwatch featured technology to monitor blood oxygen levels along with heart rate. The innovation proved popular, and Apple has used it in successive new watch releases.

The release of the Series 9 and Ultra 2 smartwatches in 2023 is where the trouble started.  Masimo, a medical tech company based in Irvine, CA, developed and patented the pulse oxygen sensing tech in 2020.

Masimo, which has had problems with Apple in the past, filed a lawsuit in 2023 claiming patent infringement on the pulse oximetry technology used in the watches.

In October of that year, the U.S. International Trade Commission ruled that Apple had indeed infringed on Masimo’s patents and placed a ban on the sale of the Series 9 and Ultra 2 in the United States.

In December, Apple managed to get the court to place a stay on the ban and put the watches in question back on the market, but it was short-lived. Before the end of the year, the ban was back in place, leaving the tech giant to come up with a new sales plan while fighting the lawsuit.

On January 18, 2024, Apple released new versions of the Series 9 and Ultra 2 in which the blood oxygen sensing technology is disabled. These versions are still available so you can buy Apple watches in the U.S. The sensors will not work, even if you are wearing the watch in another country.

In April 2024, Apple filed an appeal with the U.S. Court of Appeals Federal Circuit, claiming that the ITC’s decision to ban the sale of the watches was based on a series of defective patent rulings. Thus far, the ban remains in place. Apple continues its fight and will likely come to some kind of settlement with Masimo involving licensing of the tech. In the meantime, only the watches with the sensor disabled can be sold.

Can You Buy Apple Watches Today?

The main question fans of Apple want an answer as to whether you currently buy their watches. Yes, Apple watches are still available in the U.S. The altered versions of the Series 9 and Ultra 2 are legal to sell, as are any other models. 

Provided the O2 sensor technology is not activated, any Apple watch can be purchased. In fact, the company’s CEO Tim Cook emphatically stated that there are still good reasons to buy the watches even without the disputed technology.

Because the lawsuit is contested in U.S. courts, Apple watches with the oxygen sensor tech can still be purchased in Canada, the UK, and most other nations. 

Other Notable Apple Watch Lawsuits

The Masimo lawsuit is not the first time a company or individual has filed a complaint against the tech giant. Apple has a history of conflict with other tech companies in and out of court.

AliveCor, a medical tech company that sells heart-monitoring devices, filed a suit against Apple in 2021, claiming that the company was abusing its power as a monopoly against competitors in the heart-monitoring market. 

AliveCor filed several patent-infringement lawsuits claiming that its cofounder demonstrated Kardiaband, a heart monitoring device, to executives at Apple at a meeting in 2015. The suits allege that Apple developed its own tech a year after the meeting and announced its release just hours after AliveCor announced the release of the Kardia Band. 

The suit alleges a patent violation and further claims that Apple went on to dominate the market and block third parties from selling competing products. 

In 2019, a New York cardiologist, Joseph Wiesel, filed a lawsuit against Apple in Federal Court. Weisel claimed the company infringed on his patent on a tool that monitors heart irregularities. A court date has not been set, but Apple was granted a temporary stay.

Even Masimo has squabbled with Apple in the past. In 2013, Apple hired an engineer and 20 other employees who had previously worked for Masimo. The smaller company claimed that Apple did so to steal tech the ex-employees had developed.

Conclusion

Apple is a mammoth tech company and as such, has had its share of run-ins with smaller companies claiming patent infringements and other issues. Apple generally works its way to a solution and keeps rolling along.

For American fans of Apple watches, at least for the foreseeable future, you won’t be able to purchase a watch with the O2 sensor technology. It’s likely that Apple and Masimo will eventually reach a settlement. In the meantime, you can still buy Apple watches with plenty of health and other useful features.