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Have you ever looked at something—a painting, a scene in a movie, a moment in nature during a walk, or even just a fleeting glimpse amidst the hustle and bustle of daily life—and felt completely inspired?

The master craftsmen and women at Grand Seiko have made a lasting impression on the watchmaking world with their nature-inspired dials, a hallmark of the brand for over two decades.

Since the release of the iconic “Snowflake” SBGA211 in 2005, Grand Seiko has consistently crafted beautifully colored and textured dials, each one as impressive—if not more so—than the last. As the dials have evolved in detail, the movements within have become increasingly intricate as well.

Grand Seiko’s mastery lies in its ability to blend aesthetic beauty with technical excellence, creating watches that evoke emotion and leave enthusiasts in awe. 

Its dedication to craftsmanship is evident in every timepiece it produces, from the intricate movements to the stunning, nature-inspired designs. A perfect example of this is the beautifully crafted, bamboo-inspired “Urban Bamboo” SBGJ259.

History

In September 2022, Grand Seiko introduced two more nature-inspired watches to its Heritage collection. Both watches are stunning in beauty and showcase remarkable micro-technological craftsmanship. They were released exclusively in the US.

One of these was the SBGJ261, featuring an eccentric blue peacock-inspired dial. The other is a more subdued, tranquil piece inspired by the bamboo gardens of Japan—the SBGJ259, the subject of this article.

Before discussing its beauty in detail, it’s essential to discuss the historical significance behind the SBGJ259’s case design, the “Grand Seiko Style” 44GS.

Seven years after the first Grand Seiko was released, Chief Designer Taro Tanaka realized that perfecting a watch meant not only focusing on precision but also making it aesthetically striking. This led to the creation of the 44GS design, embodying the philosophy that a timepiece should “sparkle with quality.”

The skilled artisans of Grand Seiko then began working on watches that featured flat surfaces and two-dimensional curves. The cases, dials, and hands were designed to be wide, distortion-free, and mirror-polished, resulting in the iconic look of the 44GS style.

In 1967, Grand Seiko released its 44GS with its “Grand Seiko style” case and established the design that would be the staple of their case production. In 2014, GS released the SBGJ005, a nearly identical remake of the 44GS model with a modern touch and the high-beat GMT Caliber 9S86. 

2022 marked the 55th anniversary of the 44GS, and Grand Seiko released several models, including the SBGJ259, in homage to the design that set the new standard.

Case

Now that we’ve covered the history let’s dive into what makes this legendary case design both mesmerizing and comfortable.

The “Urban Bamboo” SBGJ259 features a 40mm stainless steel case with a 46.2mm lug-to-lug span and a lug width of about 19mm. At 14mm thick, it may seem substantial, but this is due primarily to the domed sapphire crystal and the automatic movement housed inside. Still, it slides easily under a sleeve, making it suitable for dressier occasions.

It features an open case back that allows you to see the Caliber 9S86 at work. The screwed-down crown is at the 3 o’clock position with the famed GS logo engraved at the tip and is 100 meters water resistant. 

The true mark of quality is in the finishing and polishing of the case, beginning with the bezel, which gleams with the signature Zaratsu polishing that Grand Seiko is renowned for. The sapphire crystal that protrudes slightly over the mirror-finished bezel to protect it from any potential scratches. 

The case has multiple faceted surfaces and angles, all polished using the Zaratsu method, ensuring a clear, distortion-free finish that you can admire from any angle. The sloped sides of the case and bezel not only make the watch appear slimmer but also allow it to sit comfortably on the wrist.

Honestly speaking, this case needs to be seen in person to understand how incredibly detailed it is genuinely. Grand Seiko is known for its Zaratsu polishing, but on the SBGJ259, it feels like something brand new. The way light reflects off every angle and Zaratsu-finished surface is astounding. It is a light, compact case that emphasizes masterful quality and attention to detail. 

Dial

When I first laid eyes on the SBGJ259, I was immediately reminded of Grand Seiko’s deep connection to Japanese nature and culture. What I’ve come to understand about GS and the philosophy that drives their craftsmanship is perfectly reflected in this dial: meticulous and serene.

I also noticed similarities in texture and design between the SBGJ259 and other models like the SBGJ273 “Yuka Momiji” and the SBGH269 “Autumn”. While captivating in their own way, their red dials don’t convey the same sense of tranquility as the SBGJ259’s green dial. 

The “Urban Bamboo” dial was inspired by the Nezu Museum and Garden, more specifically, the bamboo garden path. The piece was made to pay tribute to the museum’s designer, Kengo Kuma. The vertical lines are meant to resemble the bamboo trees that grow around the museum. 

Under different lighting, especially sunlight, the dial reveals various shades of green and the intricate details within each “stem” of the bamboo design, enhancing its organic and natural feel. 

The silver Dauphine hands are Zaratsu-polished, multi-faceted, and complement the dial beautifully. The rectangular hour markers, including the dual marker at 12 o’clock, are also multi-faceted. This precision is achieved by artisans using diamond-tipped milling tools, allowing them to craft the finest details with incredible accuracy.

As a GMT watch, the inner chapter ring serves as a 24-hour scale, making it easier to track timezones. The even numbers are displayed in silver, while the odd numbers are marked with silver triangles. Beneath this, the minute indicators appear in white for enhanced legibility.

A bright silver GS logo rests below the 12 o’clock marker, followed by the Grand Seiko lettering in white. Above the 6 o’clock position, you’ll find reminders of the watch’s automatic movement and its high-beat 36,000 frequency, both in white, while the GMT lettering is presented in a yellowish-lime green, matching the GMT hand.

A sleek date window sits at the 3 o’clock position, framed in polished silver with black numerals on a white background. Each element of this watch stands out individually yet comes together harmoniously. While the dial is undeniably the highlight, it’s hard to overlook the way the seconds hand glides smoothly around the face, reminiscent of a hummingbird in flight. This dial exudes a sense of calm like no other watch I’ve worn.

Movement

How does this watch perform the way it does? In true Grand Seiko fashion, the in-house Caliber 9S86 is a mechanical hi-beat 36000 GMT that is yet another embodiment of the brand’s mission to craft a movement that is high frequency, accurate, and durable. 

The Caliber 9S86 offers an astonishing daily accuracy rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day and a 55-hour power reserve; these same specs are provided on its predecessor, the Caliber 9S85. 

The main difference between the two movements is, of course, the GMT complication integrated into the 9S86. The GMT hand tracks the home time zone, while the hour hand can be adjusted by pulling the crown to its first position, making it easy to set according to the local time zone when traveling.

Since the hour hand can be independently adjusted, it won’t interfere with the second hand, allowing for a quick correction without compromising the accuracy of the Hi-beat 36,000 movement. This means you can pull the crown, adjust the time, and the watch will maintain its precision.

I’ve mentioned the Hi-beat 36,000 several times without fully explaining it, so here’s the breakdown: Most mechanical watch movements operate at 21,600 to 28,800 vibrations per hour, which equals six to eight beats per second. 

Grand Seiko engineered the Hi-beat movement to run at 10 beats per second, or 36,000 vibrations per hour, significantly improving accuracy. This is made possible by Grand Seiko’s use of Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems (MEMS) technology, introduced in 2009, which enables the creation of highly precise components similar to high-powered semiconductors.

Thanks to the precision of MEMS technology, it produces parts that make the overall movement lighter, more durable, and significantly more accurate than standard mechanical watches. Leave it to the developers at Grand Seiko to continually push the boundaries, ensuring each timepiece isn’t just a product but a genuine advancement in horology.

Bracelets and Straps

The strap on our SBGJ259 looks like a mixture of a sports bracelet and a dress bracelet. It feels light and more flexible than most bracelets, but that seems to be the standard with most Grand Seiko bracelets. 

It comes in the Grand Seiko five-link design with matted large links, and Zaratsu polished smaller links. It also features rolled bevels and polished side faces. The contrast between the brushed and polished finish on the bracelets stands out when paired with the case. 

The bracelet is secured by screwed links and includes half-links on each side for adjustments, although the clasp lacks micro-adjustment holes. The clasp itself is a single-fold steel design with a twin-trigger release, and the GS logo is elegantly engraved on the satin-finished buckle.

With a 19mm lug width, the “Urban Bamboo” may limit your options for replacement straps. However, switching straps is made easier with drilled lugs for quick changes.

On The Wrist

The SBGJ259 is an absolute delight to wear. I don’t travel as much, but luckily, I had to take a trip to the other side of the country while testing out this beauty. It is a fantastic hybrid of a dress watch and a tool watch. I didn’t plan on going to the beach with the “Urban Bamboo,” but I thought since it was the last days of summer, why not take this bright, fun watch out in the sun?

I did not regret my decision whatsoever. The dial on the SBGJ259 shines under the brightest of lights. The shades of green, the faceted Dauphin hands, the Zaratsu finished case; all these elements came together in beautiful harmony. I basked in its near-holographic appearance and was entranced by the details of the dial time and time again.

This watch can also be worn for a special occasion. It is comfortable to wear with a long sleeve and doesn’t interfere with the outfit whatsoever. I had to wear it (I didn’t have to wear it, but when you’re given a chance to wear a Grand Seiko, you better take advantage of it) to a three-day work conference, and it never got in the way of anything except the workflow whenever someone noticed the dial and came up to ask what I was wearing. 

Light, compact, and elegant, the SBGJ259 is a great everyday watch for anyone wanting to wear a fun timepiece with revolutionary technology and a dial with a color that is rare in the GMT market. 

Price & Availability

The SBGJ259 “Urban Bamboo” is a US-exclusive watch with a retail price of $6,800. The pre-owned price for this piece comes out to around $5,000, according to WatchCharts. This watch is available today at Exquisite Timepieces. 

Closing Thoughts

This watch is different. Looking at the “Urban Bamboo,” I appreciated the time and craftsmanship that went into creating something so beautiful. This isn’t just a watch—it’s a work of art, as can be said for many of Grand Seiko’s nature-inspired dials. To me, the SBGJ259 is art in its purest form. If it can move you, stir emotions with a glance, or change how you view something, then it isn’t just a watch anymore. The SBGJ259 is a Grand Seiko masterpiece.

With a quick look, you can easily find a range of diver’s watches from Grand Seiko. It’s easy to get swept into all the beautiful designs, but surface-level information doesn’t do them justice. It’s the details in the engineering that tend to sway my decision because the whole of a Grand Seiko watch should be appreciated inside and out.

The SLGA023 from Grand Seiko has proven to be a winning piece for many enthusiasts over the last year. Launched at Watches & Wonders 2023, the “Ushio” blue dial watch is a bold variation to the black colorway seen in 2022.

Aspects of this design may have been seen before, but many people agree that deep blue makes it a statement piece. To answer all of your questions and pique your interest, this Grand Seiko SLGA023 review has exactly what you’re looking for.

What’s the Backstory?

Released as a follow-up to the 2022 “Black Stream” SLGA015 diver’s watch from GS. The SLGA023 hails from the Evolution 9 Collection, which is known for its unique and relatively niche range of watch designs.

Keep in mind that while the SLGA023 is kind of a new kid on the block, the Evolution 9 collection comes with a legacy. Even if this watch isn’t a perfect choice for you, the collection that it stems from is reputable, to say the least. 

The collection may not strike your interest across the board, but the new addition of the SLGA023 is another outstanding addition of unique vibrance. It’s the combination of historical influence from the collection with a very unique watch face that sells it for me. 

With full respect to the collection as a whole, I still prefer Grand Seiko watches that deliver something that feels special. You get the rich history of Grand Seiko quality, including new takes on the classic diver’s favorite.

Making a Case for Luxury

You don’t have to look too far to find a suitable Grand Seiko, but case size is an important factor for most people. There are some conflicts with this case size for me personally, but I can’t deny the clever approach to its design. 

First and foremost, the case diameter is 43.8mm, which is a bit too big for me. However, they were smart about the overall design, as it looks relatively compact from most angles.

Aside from the sizable case, it can achieve a slimmer look, partially due to the small Spring Drive movement on the inside. From the side, you’re looking at 13.8mm thickness. Once again, a bit too large for my tastes, but I likely only feel this way due to the bulkier design choices on the dial.

Nevertheless, the high-intensity titanium on the case adds to its durability and makes it a lightweight material choice. You also might find it interesting that the case design takes inspiration from the 44GS case from 1967.

Design aspects common to the Evolution 9 collection include bolder crown guards, arched quarters, and Zaratsu-polished and brushed surfaces. With striking colors and contrasting reflections, the watch carries elegance without being considered flashy. 

The SLGA023 case is also 51.5mm lug to lug, comes with beveled sapphire crystal, and a sturdy screw case back. More notably, I was personally excited by the ceramic bezel insert, a small detail not commonly found in previous collections. 

You’ll also appreciate the small detail of a luminous pip and the matching titanium look. Keep in mind that the bezel insert as a whole isn’t illuminated, which is a slight miss from my perspective. Now, speaking for myself, I’m no diver, but this watch does come with the functionality you’d expect in a GS diver.

200m water resistance is ideal for those who are serious about the deep blue, and you can only imagine how it would match beautifully with the surroundings. After a little research, it’s clear that many people aren’t fans of the larger case design, but I think GS makes up for that through the smart engineering surrounding it.

A Face You Won’t Forget

Even amongst its pros and cons, the SLGA023 features a dial that everyone can fall in love with. This is the catalyst to the draw that people see in the watch, regardless of its larger case size or bolder look.

Looking at the dial from a distance isn’t enough, and I advise anyone to take a close look at a well-lit angle. Its rippled blue design makes it look like you have a slice of the ocean on your wrist. 

This is really what helps me overlook any details about the watch that may not be my favorite. I can’t get over the accuracy of the ocean-like dial, and it’s the perfect tone of blue, not too bright and not so dark you can’t see it.

Focusing on more specific details, the power reserve indicator sits at 9 o’clock and an easy-to-read date window at 3 o’clock. The contrasting tones of these areas make them pop against the deep blue background, which adds to their legibility and symmetry with the design.

One aspect that many see as a downside is the rather large indices and hands. Some feel this blocks out some of the beauty of the dial, while others simply don’t like the bulkier look. 

I’d say this is what makes it so unique from other options in the Evolution 9 collection. The same goes for the minute track; I’m a huge fan of the circular design that’s included.

I understand the modern preference for a sleeker look, but the design choice here matches the bold nature of the rest of the watch. You can rely on LumiBrite for low-light conditions, and this also extends to the bezel for a more full-fledged viewing. 

Just like anyone else, I easily get lost in the surface visual beauty of luxury timepieces. The reality is that the internal components are the glue that seals the deal for me when making a buying decision. You should always consider the watch’s beauty, but understanding what’s happening on the inside will take your perceived value of this watch to new heights.

The Movement of the SLGA023

As can be expected by Grand Seiko quality, this watch is crafted with an in-house movement. More specifically, a reliable Spring Drive Caliber 9RA5. What most people love about this movement is the ingenuity of mixing quartz and mechanical engineering.

You can’t overlook the accuracy here either, as it promises ±10 seconds monthly and ±0.5 seconds daily. In short, you won’t ever have an issue with timing precision. The beauty of this watch extends past the surface, as the Caliber 9RA5 is crafted with 38 jewels itself.

Although I’m a huge fan of the luxury watch space, I tend to keep a pretty niche selection. It’s common for me to wear the same watch for long periods of time, so it’s important they’re consistent. 

It’s part of what I stick around for in GS watches is the in-house movements. With this level of precision, balance, and consistency, the hands look like they can carve butter with how smooth the movements are.

This movement guarantees a 120-hour power reserve and is built for vibration dampening, a nice addition that active divers will appreciate. Another notable aspect of the Spring Drive movement that I prefer over others is the automation. The movement winds with support from wrist motion, making it an easy choice no matter where you’re going.

For those who are new to watchmaking, the importance of a reliable movement can’t be understated. Regarding the SLGA023, the Spring Drive movement is the powerhouse of the watch. 

It supports the seconds, minutes, and hours, as well as the power reserve indicator and date display. That’s what makes the engineering and reliability of Grand Seiko in-house movements so valuable for a lifetime.

How Does the Strap Hold Up?

With the support of a lock and push button 3-fold clasp and case-matching design, the strap is equally stunning to neighboring features. Even better, there’s a built-in, durable strap adjuster to make the watch more fitting for a diving suit.

Similarly to the surrounding material, the strap is also crafted with high-intensity titanium, providing a bold look yet lightweight feel. While there’s a time and place for obvious contrasting finishes, I’m really appreciative they stuck with a majority brushed look. It shines enough on its own, and I honestly feel taking an overly polished route would distract too much from the dial.

Although you can find comments downplaying the sizeable case, I feel Grand Seiko compensated for this in other areas. For example, the 23mm lug width offers a nice taper to add to a better-looking fit. While this might make it more challenging to source other compatible straps, at least the drilled lugs still help to make the switch pretty easy.

As many other GS wearers would agree, I’m a fan of the push-pin adjustments without having to mess with any screws. These small details in design efficiency and thinking about the end user will always have me coming back to new Grand Seiko releases.

Now, I won’t argue that wrist size is important to some degree for any watch; this one offers enough flexibility for most people. Even for those who feel leather straps are superior, I’d advise giving this watch a spin for yourself, and you’ll realize how snug it actually feels.

No pinching of the wrist and a lightweight design ensure comfortable all-day wear. Some others are bound to disagree due to individual preferences, but they definitely thought about comfort when it comes to the strap. 

Not to mention, it seamlessly blends into the case, all of which wraps around the wrist uniformly for an even feel to weight distribution. This leads me to the next section, as the daily experience matters just as much as the beauty of the watch itself.

The Satisfying On-Wrist Experience

If you were to look at my collection, you’d see that the SLGA023 stands out among the rest. Not only because of its beautiful blue dial but also because of its size. I generally go for a much sleeker look with my watches. While the SLGA023 does what it can to look more form-fitting, the case size simply can’t be ignored.

It’s definitely more of a statement piece for me. I don’t dive, so I can’t relate to that, but I love wearing this with darker outfits, as the blue blends in, and the titanium acts as a nice contrast. The watch is known to be more form-fitting on 7.5” wrists but can easily look and feel great on smaller wrists around 6.5”.

You’ll never hear a complaint from me regarding the in-house Spring Drive movements from Grand Seiko. I don’t have anything against quartz per se, and I honestly like a nice tick, but the stealthlike approach to Spring Drive is a stellar sight.

I can see why someone may not be privy to the included strap, but it fits the bill for my needs. Leather straps tend to be my preference on cooler days, but I have nothing against a nice titanium-brushed look here and there.

While I don’t have experience with the black counterpart to this watch, it’s the blue wave dial that made me take a closer look. There are many aspects of the watch design as a whole that make it easy to overlook anything that could be deemed unfavorable. As always, the look and feel of a watch is crucial, but so is the price tag.

Grand Seiko SLGA023 Pricing and Availability

You can find the Grand Seiko SLGA023 retailing at $11,600. This might be on the higher end for entry-level buyers, but that’s what the pre-owned market can help with. However, the price range for this pre-owned watch can vary a bit based on many quality details.

Right now, you should be able to find this watch pre-owned for anywhere between $6,000 to $10,000. Considering it’s still relatively new to the market, this is bound to change as time goes on. 

Nevertheless, the watch isn’t hard to come by, but buyers should always consider where they look as well. You want to work with someone who understands not only watchmaking but also the ins and outs of Grand Seikos specifically. 

Exquisite Timepieces has your back from every angle, and we carry a quality promise behind our Grand Seiko SLGA023 and every other watch in our collection.

Let’s Wrap Up This Review

Almost anyone interested in luxury watchmaking knows and appreciates the Grand Seiko name. Even if they don’t own one for themselves, they’ve likely considered it. I keep coming back to the brand for many obvious reasons, but the fair cost, on top of unparalleled design choices, never misses the mark.

With the SLGA023 divers watch, you can’t go wrong, and you would be hard-pressed to find such an elegant ocean-like dial with micro artistic detail. Although you might feel like this GS watch is on the higher end cost-wise, remember that it’s a lifelong investment that won’t disappoint for generations.

Here’s a bite-sized vocabulary lesson to start. The word “epitome” can be defined as a typical or ideal example. The word “elegance” means the quality of being pleasingly ingenious and simple. Many things in the world can be described as elegant, but when it comes to Grand Seiko and their relentless pursuit of perfection, their watches truly epitomize elegance. 

The inner workings are a watchmaking marvel of complex precision and expert craftsmanship, while the dials, perhaps its most distinguishable feature, could stand alone as its own art piece. Serving as homages to the landscapes that surround their studios in Japan, the Grand Seiko philosophy of “the Nature of Time” resonates through each beautiful design that the GS logo graces.

Ever since I got into the world of watches, I have gravitated towards the works of Grand Seiko. They have always felt like more than a watch to me; it was like seeing the culmination of a generation’s relentlessness in making something that is not only elegant but perfect beyond comparison. 

To see a Grand Seiko is to witness elite artistry in the form of a wristwatch; to wear one is an honor. I was lucky enough to wear and fall hopelessly in love with the Grand Seiko SBGW283, a beautiful dress watch with a stunning light blue dial commemorating Kishun, or the start of summer.

History of the Elegance Collection

Since its inception six decades ago, the Grand Seiko brand and its team of “Takumi,” or skilled craftsmen, have dedicated their livelihoods to the integrity of perfecting the everyday wristwatch. 

In 2019, GS launched its Elegance Collection, a dress watch line made for the most essential occasions in a person’s life with stylish subtlety. This line of watches draws inspiration from the first Grand Seiko, adding modern touches and mechanical brilliance that elevate the classic design to new heights.

In April 2022, GS introduced two new gorgeous watches to its Elegance Collection, celebrating the changing seasons from its Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi Iwate Prefecture- one of them being the SBGW283.

The Case

At first glance, the case looks like a Grand Seiko watch from the 1960s. Crafted from stainless steel, this model features a modest 37.3 mm diameter—remarkably small for men’s watches at the time of its release—and a thickness of 11.7 mm, making it an ideal size for a dress watch. The box-shaped sapphire crystal makes up most of its thickness. It only offers 30 meters of water resistance, which is appropriate for a dress watch of this caliber.  

The case has a 44.3 mm lug-to-lug spacing and a lug width of 19 mm. Due to the short beveled lugs, the watch sits low and comfortably on a small wrist like mine. Some people may find that lug width disappointing due to the limited options at 19 mm, but the chances of wanting to switch the original strap are meager.  

One of my favorite things about Grand Seiko is their crowns. Seeing that GS engraving before adjusting the watches sends chills down my spine. Hand-winding has always been one of my favorite aspects of mechanical watches, and Grand Seiko clearly understands the joy it brings. 

The crown is easy to grip, and the winding mechanism produces a satisfying sound. The case, finished to ‘sparkle with quality’ through the Zaratsu polishing process, features an open-case back, allowing a glimpse into the intricate craftsmanship inside.

The Dial 

When it comes to dials, few are as iconic as those crafted by Grand Seiko. Each dial is designed to be as marvelous as the landscapes that inspire the Grand Seiko studios. Whether it’s the legendary SBGA211 ‘Snowflake’ or my personal favorite, the SBGJ273 ‘Yuka Momiji,’ each dial brilliantly reflects Japanese nature and culture through its beautiful designs.

If you’re familiar with Grand Seiko, the SBGW283 may remind you of another model within the GS dress watch family. Its simple, delicate dial follows the same design as the limited releases from November 2021, inspired by the Genbi Valley. The three elegantly minimalist watches—SBGW273, SBGW275, and SBGW277—were crafted in homage to the Kirazuri painting technique, which imparts a subtle yet distinctive glitter to each dial.

Utilizing the same Kirazuri technique, the SBGW283 features a delicate pale blue dial that glimmers tastefully under any light. Inspired by the changing seasons—specifically the transition from late spring to early summer, known in Japan as Kishun—the GS artisans drew inspiration from the skies above Mt. Iwate just before summer begins. 

It’s worth noting that the SBGW283’s companion, the SBGW285, draws inspiration from Byōka—the transition from summer to autumn—featuring a rich, deep green dial.

The light blue dial is softly textured, and the silver accents provide a striking contrast that makes the dial stand out in a way that is neither bold nor understated. As mentioned, the watch interacts beautifully with light, creating a dynamic play of reflections. The angled bezel and sharp, Zaratsu-polished hands add to its mesmerizing appeal. 

The ‘Kishun’ doesn’t have a date complication but features second and minute markers, along with the iconic GS logo and Grand Seiko lettering at the 12 o’clock position. This dial exemplifies Grand Seiko at its finest—elegant and refined in its simplicity.

The Movement

Most of the time, people notice the dial first when looking at a watch. While beauty is subjective, a luxury watch captivates both inside and out. At Grand Seiko, the elegance of a watch is reflected in the simplicity of their dials and the complexity of their movements. Intending to create the world’s best watch, the experts at GS have developed some of the most precise mechanical watches, pushing the boundaries of watchmaking.

In 1998, Grand Seiko introduced its 9S mechanical movement, ushering in a new era of watchmaking excellence. GS celebrates not only its cutting-edge microtechnology but also the craftsmen and women who have honed their skills to ensure their mechanical watches perform with peak precision. 

These watches undergo a rigorous 17-day testing phase, during which they are evaluated under three different temperatures and six positions to meet Grand Seiko’s exacting standards.

The SBGW283 is powered by the Caliber 9S64, which Grand Seiko introduced in 2011 as one of their most straightforward mechanical movements. I use the term ‘simple’ lightly; this is still a GS movement with 183 meticulously tested components, ensuring both precision and durability. 

This hand-winding mechanical watch offers a three-day, or 72-hour, power reserve so that you can take it off for the weekend, and it will still be running accurately come Monday morning. It provides a mean daily timekeeping accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds and a normal usage accuracy of +10 to -1 seconds per day.

The Strap

An elegant watch would be nothing without the strap that keeps it on your wrist. The strap on the SBGW283 is just as beautiful as the watch it carries: an unstitched dark blue crocodile leather strap and a pin buckle with the Grand Seiko logo engraving on it, giving it a real vintage look. It offers a thick calf padding on the bottom so it lays comfortably on the skin. 

When considering potential issues with the strap, the only detail that comes to mind is the 19 mm lug width. As mentioned earlier, the options for switching straps are quite limited. Some owners have consulted Grand Seiko representatives about alternatives, while others have opted for oyster-style bracelets or beige-colored straps on their ‘Kishun’. 

Personally, I find it difficult to replace the factory strap, as I’ve enjoyed my time with it, and changing it feels like tampering with a recipe for success. The SBGW283 is a stunning watch as it is—strap and all.

On-Wrist Experience

My first ‘real’ watch was the Seiko SARB017, and at the time, I felt nothing could top it. But as with any passion, you keep looking around and eventually save up for that ‘big boy’ watch. Despite the many prestigious names out there, my loyalty remained with Seiko. So, when the opportunity arose to test out the SBGW283, I couldn’t contain my excitement.

At first glance, it resembles a vintage watch with its sub-38 mm case, crocodile strap, and hand-winding movement. But this is Grand Seiko at its finest—seamlessly blending classic style with the cutting-edge technology they’ve mastered. The watch is small and incredibly comfortable, fitting perfectly on my 5.8-inch wrist.

I must admit, in a hot and humid city like mine, wearing a leather watch can become a bit tedious. However, that’s a ‘leather strap’ issue, not a reflection on the watch itself. Seeing the dial gleam in the sunlight is breathtaking. The way light reflects off the textured design almost makes the pale blue dial appear silver from certain angles.

Although it’s a dress watch, I’d wear it to work just to watch the second hand glide gracefully around the dial. This watch is a conversation starter among those who recognize the Grand Seiko brand—which might sound pretentious, but the appreciation that grows for GS after wearing one of their watches is nothing short of a life-changing revelation.

Price & Availability

The SBGW283 is priced at $4,800, which is a fair value for a watch of this caliber and available at Exquisite Timepieces. With the same level of finishing and movement as some of the higher-end Grand Seikos, this sub-5k watch offers exceptional value for your money. 

Closing Thoughts

The SBGW283 ‘Kishun’ is a remarkable addition to the Elegance Collection. This classy, understated dress watch embodies Grand Seiko’s dedication to creating timeless luxury timepieces while perfecting the art of meticulous timekeeping. It feels comfortable and light, revealing new details every time you strap it on. 

At half the price of many dress watches from other brands—and even within Grand Seiko’s own lineup—it’s an absolute gem, both to admire and to wear.

The first thing I think of when I think of Grand Seiko, and perhaps many other watch enthusiasts, are their sharp yet subtle dress watches. And while the bulk of their collection showcases some of the world’s finest dress pieces, a connoisseur with a discerning eye would be foolish to overlook their impressive line of sports watches. 

Leave it to the expert craftsmen and women at Grand Seiko to create a collection of sports watches that stay true to their philosophy—a watch that demands attention with its ingenuity and elegance while catering to an audience of watch lovers who prefer to look stylish while active. 

Our case in point: the SBGE257—featuring three distinct complications, the groundbreaking in-house Spring Drive movement and a striking, forest green dial. This watch isn’t just another GMT, but a Grand Seiko GMT.

History

Since becoming a sub-division of Seiko in the 1960s, Grand Seiko has been committed to crafting luxury timepieces known for their precision and durability. Driven by a mission to create timeless, accurate dress watches with sleek, minimalist designs and innovative movements, Grand Seiko emerged as a strong competitor to renowned Swiss brands.

Although Grand Seiko became a household name in Japan, it had yet to make a significant impact internationally. Focused solely on dress watches, the brand needed to develop something equally luxurious and precise to appeal to a broader market.

In 2001, Grand Seiko introduced its first GMT watch, the SBGM001, marking a new era for the brand. The success of the SBGM001 helped Grand Seiko reach a wider audience, showcasing its advanced mechanical prowess. This breakthrough led to the launch of the Sports Collection in 2014, which included chronographs, diver watches, and GMTs.

In July 2020, to celebrate its 60th anniversary, Grand Seiko introduced several commemorative pieces, including three new GMTs in their Sports Collection: the black SBGE253, the blue SBGE255, and the aforementioned green SBGE257. 

Each watch features the 9R66 Spring Drive movement and a perfectly matched bezel. Still, the SBGE257, in particular, captures the essence of paying homage to Japanese nature with its lush green dial—a proper tribute to Grand Seiko’s legacy of precision and elegance.

Case

It’s well known that GMT watches tend to be larger and thicker than other timepieces. Accommodating this famous complication usually requires a bigger case, with most GMTs falling within the 40mm to 44mm diameter range. At first glance, the SBGE257 may appear prominent and bulky, which could be intimidating to those with smaller wrists, like myself.

But I was pleasantly surprised once I got it fitted and planted this glorious piece on my wrist. Compared to 2019’s SBGE248 and 2023’s SBGE295G, which are 44mm in diameter, the SBGE257 is 40.5mm with a 48.7mm lug to lug, making this one of Grand Seiko’s most compact GMTs. 

Now, if you are looking into buying this watch but find its thickness alarming, I can understand. At 14.7mm thick, you’d start to wonder just how it’d look and feel when wearing it. 

But this is where Grand Seiko excels with its expert craftsmanship. With angled bevels and their Zaratsu-polished finishing, the stainless steel SBGE257 shines and distorts to make those extra millimeters disappear once on your wrist. 

The case’s curves and lugs’ shapes allow the watch to sit comfortably on the wrist, compensating for the domed sapphire crystal on top, which makes up most of the case’s thickness. 

Although the case back does not reveal the intricacies of the 9R66 movement, it has the beautiful Grand Seiko lion logo engraved and indicates that this watch is 200 meters water resistant. 

The standout feature of the case is the striking green ceramic fixed bezel with 24-hour markers for the GMT complication. Notably, the bezel and sapphire crystal are highly scratch-resistant, making this watch ideal for everyday wear. The crown positioned at 4 o’clock offers comfort and accessibility, whether worn on the left or right wrist.

Dial

Before I had the chance to wear the SBGE257, I read reviews describing the dial as ‘poetic,’ and I have to agree. Perhaps it’s my own poetic side, but there’s an undeniable beauty in the lush green dial that pays homage to the 2,000 types of moss covering Japan’s trees and stones. If Grand Seiko’s philosophy is ‘nature in time,’ then this moss-inspired dial perfectly honors something timeless—much like moss in nature, much like time itself.

I digress. There’s so much to love about this dial. The green shifts in shades depending on the lighting, transitioning from light green to dark green and even to black. Some might describe it as a matte forest green, and with its sunburst finish, it’s hard not to be captivated by its ever-changing color.

Speaking of captivating, I was in awe of the detail Grand Seiko added to the hour indices. The craftsmanship is renowned for its obsessive perfection, but the intricacies of these markers blew me away. I loved how the light reflects and refracts off the meticulously polished lines.

The hour and minute hands are beautifully brushed and polished in a silver finish, while the GMT hand, painted in gold, perfectly complements the deep green dial.

The markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9, along with the hour, minute, and GMT hands, feature bright lume, making it easy to tell the time in the dark.

Adding to the outer bezel is the inner rehaut, half green and half silver, featuring the odd numbers of the 24-hour markers. This compensates for the lack of a rotating bezel and makes the watch easier to read.

Positioned between the 8 and 9 o’clock markers is the power reserve indicator—a subtle yet practical feature that lets you know how much longer the watch will run before the mainspring needs winding. 

A date marker is located at 4 o’clock, while the classic Grand Seiko logo, in matte silver, sits just below the 12 o’clock marker. Below the 6 o’clock position, gold lettering highlights the watch’s GMT function, perfectly matching the GMT hand, along with a reminder that this timepiece is powered by a Spring Drive movement.

Although these elements may sound like they could overcrowd the dial, everything is thoughtfully arranged, allowing each feature to be appreciated both individually and as part of a beautifully cohesive design.

Movement

I didn’t mention the seconds hand earlier because the magic of its smooth, sweeping motion deserves to be discussed alongside the innovative Spring Drive 9R66 caliber movement. As with most Grand Seiko pieces, let’s first delve into a bit of history.

For Grand Seiko, the goal was always to create the most precise and accurate mechanical watch in the world. What might seem like a competition with Swiss watchmakers is Grand Seiko pushing the boundaries of what a mechanical watch can achieve.

This drive led Yoshikazu Akahane to envision a way to combine the traditional mechanical movement with the precision of a quartz movement, a technology that had seen great success in 1969 with the Caliber 35A. Akahane began his work in 1977, inspired by the sight of a bicycle coasting downhill while braking. He believed that the bike’s steady, constant speed could be applied to a watch, and so his journey began.

True to Grand Seiko’s patient and meticulous approach, his work remained behind the scenes until 1998, when the Spring Drive was finally unveiled at the Basel Watch Fair in Switzerland. The innovation made waves with its continuously smooth seconds hand, free of stutter or ticking. Sadly, Akahane passed away before its debut, but his work remains a testament to Grand Seiko’s relentless pursuit of perfection.

The SBGE257 uses a 9RSS caliber movement, which debuted in 2006 and was the first Spring Drive movement with a GMT complication. It is an automatic movement with manual winding capability and a time-hacking function. The accuracy is a staggering ±1 seconds per day and ±15 seconds per month and features a 72-hour power reserve. 

How the Spring Drive operates deserves an article of its own, and while our fellow writer Micheal Brown gives a fantastic description of how this movement works, I’ll try to describe it briefly. 

According to Grand Seiko, the Spring Drive is neither mechanical nor quartz; it is a “mechanical watch having accuracy equivalent to a quartz watch.” Like a mechanical watch, the Spring Drive is powered by a mainspring but is kept in perpetual motion by a Tri-synchro regulator. 

As the wound mainspring is unwound, the unwinding powers the gear train via the oscillator, which vibrates at 32,768 Hz to move the hands—no battery is necessary. The generated electricity powers an integrated circuit, or IC, which detects the speed of the glide wheel and applies an electromagnetic brake. 

My explanation doesn’t fully capture the intricacies of this groundbreaking achievement in watchmaking. Grand Seiko didn’t just create a movement that competes with the best of Swiss watchmaking; they elevated the standard, setting themselves levels above the competition.

Bracelet

The bracelet beautifully matches the case of the SBGE257. It features Grand Seiko’s five-link design, with a polished finish on the bigger links and Zaratsu finishing on the smaller ones. The sides have a polished bevel, making the bracelet feel and look almost like it has a matte finish. 

Like most of the GS bracelets, there are removable links attached by screws. It also features half links and four divots to help with any micro adjustments necessary, which helps out for someone with a smaller wrist. 

It has a three-fold clasp with a twin trigger release, so the watch won’t pop open unless it’s pressed down on both sides. 

With a bandwidth of 20mm, the possibility of replacing the stainless steel bracelet on this watch is endless, but personally, I wouldn’t. It takes away from the watch as a whole. That said, I have heard folks talk about making this piece feel sportier by strapping on a NATO and even a leather strap. 

On The Wrist

The SBGE257 has been one of the most exciting watches I’ve enjoyed wearing. Initially, I had doubts about its size and thickness, but after a few hours and some adjustments, it felt right at home on my wrist.

This is an excellent watch for everyday use. It doesn’t feel heavy or hinder my daily activities. Typically, you want a watch to be so light that you forget it’s there. That wasn’t the case with the SBGE257—and I mean that in the best way possible.

Having tested lighter and slimmer Grand Seiko pieces, this one stands out as an attention-getter. It’s a bright watch, full of reflections under the right lighting, and it’s hard not to become mesmerized by the smooth sweep of the Spring Drive movement.

This watch has a peaceful, almost quaint quality. Its lush green dial, continuously moving seconds hand, and shiny ceramic bezel create a captivating presence. At 40mm, it’s a perfect fit for both small and larger wrists.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko SBGE257 retails for $6,200, while pre-owned pieces can cost between $3,500 and $4,000. This stunning watch is now available at Exquisite Timepieces. 

Closing Thoughts

Wearing the SBGE257 is like wearing a piece of horological evolution. This isn’t just an ordinary watch. With its GMT complication, it’s already a bit more special, but to truly appreciate what’s on your wrist, you need to understand the history behind Grand Seiko.

Here come the poetics again: the story of Yoshikazu Akahane and his ambitious vision of a perfectly flowing watch, Grand Seiko’s philosophy of “the natural flow of time,” and the moss-colored dial—all these elements are compiled into a 40mm timepiece that could be considered one of Grand Seiko’s finest creations. The SBGE257 is a piece of watchmaking eternity, destined to stand the test of time.

Flawless engineering and elegant precision are the two support beams on which pieces like the Grand Seiko SBGJ237 rest. The precision of its craftsmanship determines what makes an innovative piece earn that title. Grand Seiko has proven over and over again why it is revered, respected, and referred to as a mammoth in the industry when it comes to its design. 

There is no better embodiment of the brand’s dedication to innovation and functionality than this Sports Collection Hi-Beat 36000 GMT. Taking inspiration from the electrifying Japanese craftsmanship from which it derives while also incorporating cutting-edge technology, this masterpiece serves as an irresistible siren call for watch enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike. 

It is no secret that GMT pieces are rooted in extremely high-quality craftsmanship, seeking to deliver on all fronts as a titan in the industry. Grand Seiko has cracked the code, as their GMT pieces are some of the most luxurious and well-designed pieces on the market. 

As we take you on a journey exploring the intricate mechanics, enchanting design, and otherworldly performance of the Grand Seiko Sport Collection Hi-Beat 36000 GMT, you will see why watch experts and enjoyers alike dub this a truly innovative piece that should be in every collection out there. 

History

Released in August 2020, the SBGJ237 is a welcome addition to the Sport Collection. From diver’s watches to chronographs, automatic spring drives, and more, the Sport Collection fully embodies the core attributes of the Grand Seiko brand—combining legibility and durability in every piece. 

Since its debut, the SBGJ237 has been a staple, highlighting the unparalleled functionality that GMT pieces bring to the table. 

Grand Seiko is by no means a stranger to GMT watches. Some past Seiko GMT pieces include the SBGM221 (which is one of my favorite GMT watches of any brand currently available) and the SBGJ201, with a similar design to the 237–as both use stainless steel for their casing–and the SBGE253, a fellow member of the sports collection, resembling the 237 in nearly everything but color. 

Seiko looks to improve upon every piece they put out, and that stands true to their GMT collection as every design has improved upon the last, bringing us their magnum opus of GMT sports watches in the form of the SBGJ237. 

Case 

The SBJG237’s case, with a diameter of 44.2 mm, may seem large, but the sloped design compensates for the bulkier measurement by significantly slimming down the case. Having a lug-to-lug of 50.6mm and being 14.4mm thick, it is one of the largest GMTs out there, which will naturally cause some complaints. But the proportions are very well-rounded. 

Plus, the case is stunning, using its size as an advantage to fully display its beauty. With a stainless steel material and a rotating 24-hour bezel made of sapphire crystal, this piece strives not only for functionality but also for a rich, demanding presence that radiates luxury and style. 

The high-quality sapphire glass allows you to gaze in wonder at a fully transparent view that lets you soak in the depth and detail of the entire piece. The crown sits solemn and silver, allowing you to easily adjust depending on your timezone. All of the intricate mechanics that optimize the watch’s functionality are tucked away behind a solid case-back with the Grand Seiko logo. The entire case captures the feeling of a midnight walk. 

It is a true sports watch that prioritizes functionality and durability above everything, yet the exquisite finishing gives it that luxurious touch that we’ve come to expect from Grand Seiko. Polished surfaces with a few spots of brushing on top of the lugs already give it an iconic look, but paired with the sleek silver and the white and blue of the bidirectional bezel, you are transported to a beautiful world of light and dark where you decide which color is more dazzling. 

Dial

Moving deeper, we now look at the midnight blue dial. The bold whiteness of the GMT hand provides a symbolistic contrast to the deep, dark blue, which, under certain angles, can appear jet black. I will note that the lighting environment plays a huge part in enhancing the beauty of the dial. 

Under specific lighting, it can appear lighter or darker than it really is, adding an entirely new layer to the aesthetic, which dubs it my favorite part of this piece. The hands themselves perfectly add a sleek and bold flavor as they glide across the surface, with the hour and minute indices swimming comfortably in the dark blue sea of the dial. 

They are shaped exactly how they need to be and remain subtle enough not to overtake any other portion of the design. The bezel and hands are fully lumed, and the 3,6, 9, and 12 indices can also glow in the dark, allowing the wearer to fully use all the piece’s functions, no matter the time of day. The date window resides at the 4 o’clock position, adding to the watch’s sporty persona while not subtracting from the symmetry. 

The design of the dial is reminiscent of the Japanese night sky, a rich dark blue that I can’t state enough is the most gorgeous part of the piece. Grand Seiko seeks to add a touch of personality to every piece, and the magnificent sunburst blue coloring causes the piece to erupt with life. 

Movement

The SBGJ237 uses a Hi-beat automatic movement operating at 36,000 vph, propelling the second’s hand in a very smooth motion, nearly competing with the iconic Spring Drive itself. While not as smooth as the Spring Drive, it comes very close, and the additional perks that the Sport Collection offers far outweigh what it lacks. 

This model incorporates the high-specification movement of the Caliber 9S86, which has an accuracy of +5 -3 seconds per day and a power reserve of 55 hours. What sets the 9S86 apart from other caliber numbers, such as the 9S85, is that the 9S86 offers the GMT function, which is essential to international travelers, assuring them that the accuracy of the time shown directly correlates to their time zone. 

Many tend to label this watch as “a real GMT” because the hour hand can be set independently from the minute, making it easy to unscrew the crown and set your local timezone. Aside from other Grand Seiko models, the SBGJ237 has drawn comparisons to other GMT watches of different brands–most notably the Rolex GMT Master II. 

When comparing anything with Rolex, it is easy to assume that the most iconic name in the watch industry easily outperforms any other competitor. Still, I would argue that the Seiko watch outshines Rolex in many ways. Aside from similar movement, the two GMT watches share a similar-looking bezel and dial. 

However, the craftsmanship and finishing are notably more elegant on the Seiko, making it look more expensive than the Rolex, which speaks volumes considering that the Seiko is less than half the price. Sometimes, being the more expensive option doesn’t always mean that you are the best looking nor the most efficient. Seiko prioritizes high functionality and even higher craftsmanship in every piece they put out, once again reinforcing their impact on the industry. 

Straps

Aside from the dial, the stainless steel bracelet is my favorite feature of this piece. It perfectly balances the watch, contrasting the dark blue of the center with its sleek, silver surface and richly polished details. The bracelet is durable and well-finished. 

It has four micro-adjustments catering to a wider variety of wrist sizes. While the strap’s width may be a bit bulky, coming in at 21mm, the band’s perimeter is 201mm, making it easy to fit any wrist of any size so that you can adjust accordingly. In order to prevent accidental openings, the clasp has two triggers, which you press simultaneously, making it easy to slip on and off. 

The clasp is also engraved with the iconic Grand Seiko logo, and its impeccable satin finish–to no one’s surprise–causes it to fit perfectly with the rest of the piece. The watch fits tightly and comfortably around the wrist, ensuring it doesn’t slide while you’re on the go, and the “tooly nature” of this watch, combined with its elegance, make it a strap magnet. 

The lugs are 21mm wide, making it a little more difficult to find straps, but the drilled lugs make it easier to swap them around. 

On the Wrist

There’s no hiding the fact that this is a 44.2 mm watch with a 50.6 lug to lug–especially on a smaller wrist. It is a large watch, it doesn’t wear small, but it is very well proportioned. The only recommendation I would offer is that if your wrist is smaller than 17 centimeters (around 6.75 inches), then you should definitely try it on in the store first before you make a decision about purchasing. 

On my wrist, it feels great and has the unique feel of a high-quality tool watch, which–undoubtedly–was intended by Grand Seiko. It is bulkier, but it’s not heavy. My wrist wasn’t in pain, and I was able to comfortably move while wearing it. 

Depending on the lighting, The watch also takes on many colors. The bezel and dial can appear dark blue under one light and jet black under another, giving it even more of a stylish flare. Every so often, when I glanced down, I was pleasantly surprised at how it could adjust to any lighting environment, and–as I mentioned before–really set the tone of the entire piece for me.

Legibility is an underrated aspect of the watch. No matter how far away I was looking, and no matter the light level, I could always clearly read everything on the bezel and within the dial, which is an upside to having a thicker casing. I feel the LumiBrite glow-in-the-dark feature came in handy far more often than I thought. 

There is no legibility lost; you can clearly see the bezel, the indices, and the hands, making it easy to tell the time no matter the hour of the day. A true Sport Collection, through and through, with a 200 m water resistance (thanks to the thickness) that allows you to take on any activity without having to worry about damage or corruption, all while looking your best. 

The easily adjustable time zone makes it an essential traveling companion, giving you the freedom to sport this watch wherever you go. In terms of fashion, the sleek, stainless steel makes it easy to pair with anything, while the dark blue of the dial can perfectly match a suit jacket of the same color.  

It is a dressier watch, so be sure to up your fashion game to properly compliment this beauty. The thickness of the case will definitely make it more noticeable than a slimmer piece, which is another plus of having a thicker watch. Wearing it on the outside of your jacket would be my recommendation, as it is too bulky to wear underneath a sleeve. 

While the thickness would be my only minor complaint, there are many ways to take advantage of the size. And with it being such a pretty piece, the size makes it stand out even more. 

Price and availability

You can find the Grand Seiko SBGJ237 from Grand Seiko authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Grand Seiko. A brand-new SBGJ237 costs can be picked up for $6,800. Pre-owned pieces usually range from 4-6k, depending on the condition of the watch. 

Conclusion

The market is always searching for pieces that encapsulate practicality, accuracy, durability, and style. These are pieces that go above and beyond, delivering high-quality craftsmanship and solidifying themselves as a brand that needs to be taken seriously. 

As much creativity as this market has, creating a piece that captures everything a watch lover wants and everything that a high-quality watch needs to function at a high-end level is difficult. But Grand Seiko stepped up to the challenge, perfectly adapting the GMT into a luxurious piece that can compete and excel over the competition. 

Undoubtedly, my personal favorite piece from the sports collection. It proves you no longer have to sacrifice practicality for a truly luxurious aesthetic. Grand Seiko continues to forge a blazing path through the industry with every piece they release, fully embodying their philosophy, which is to pour their heart and soul into every piece in pursuit of discovering the true meaning of time itself. 

As time goes on, watch lovers should be overjoyed by the value that Grand Seiko places on elegant craftsmanship and flawless precision. Their work continues to stand the test of time while maintaining their reputation as revolutionary creators, exceeding expectations, defining the industry, and improving upon every piece.