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When it comes to watches, picking the right case size is like choosing the perfect pair of jeans. It has to fit just right; not too tight and not too loose. It needs to feel like a watch that has been designed for you. 

Sure, the colors, metals and technology are important but for me, size is one of the most important aspects of a watch because it changes how it feels on your wrist, how it wears day to day, and how it looks to everyone else. 

Most of us have tried on several round watches in our lives, so those feel a little easier to size up. But the Cartier Santos? That is a little bit more complex. Its square case with curved edges throws everything you think you know about sizing right out the window. It’s bold, stylish, and designed to turn heads, which makes nailing the size even more important. 

Right now, the Parisian watchmaker offers the Santos in two main sizes: Medium and Large. And if you’re debating between the two, know that you’re not alone. It’s a common dilemma for anyone eyeing this timeless watch. 

So, without further ado, let’s get to know the Cartier Santos collection a little better and help you figure out which model will suit your wrist, taste and budget best.

The Cartier Santos Collection

The Cartier Santos is definitely up there with one of the most iconic watches in history. I try not to use that word too often, but it feels warranted in this case. It’s a watch that dates back to 1904 when Louis Cartier, the founder of Cartier watches, joined forces with his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, a Brazilian aviation pioneer, to create a pilot’s watch. Santos-Dumont wanted a timepiece that he could check mid-flight without having to fumble with a pocket watch. 

Yes, you read that right. The Cartier Santos was indeed one of the first wristwatches ever created. In fact, it’s known for being the first men’s wristwatch invented (the first women’s wristwatch goes to the Breguet No. 2639 which was designed for Queen Caroline Murat of Naples in 1810 by Abraham-Louis Breguet.) 

The Cartier Santos made its debut in the early years of the 1900’s, boasting a sleek, bold and distinctive square-shaped case that made it stand out even more from the classically round pocket watches of the era. It was a watch made for innovators, and it quickly gained a reputation for being as daring as the man it was made for.

Fast forward to the 1970s, and the Santos saw a major glow-up. Cartier introduced the Santos de Cartier in steel and gold, making it one of the first luxury watches to embrace steel in a big way. This was a time when luxury was all about gold and precious metals, but Cartier went ahead and mixed things up. And of course, it worked. The Santos became an icon of casual elegance, a watch that could do it all from black-tie galas to lazy Sundays. 

Over the years, the Santos has seen countless updates and variations. There’s been new materials, different sizes, and all sorts of dial options. But no matter how much it’s evolved, the Santos has always stayed true to its roots: a square case, exposed screws on the bezel, and that unmistakable blend of form and function. 

Then came 2016 when the watch was discontinued, disappearing altogether from the French watchmaker’s portfolio. But thankfully, that didn’t last long, because Cartier brought the Santos back in a big way at SIHH in 2018. The revamped Santos retained all the design elements we know and love but added modern updates that made it even more wearable. For one, Cartier introduced the SmartLink system, which lets you adjust the bracelet without any tools. Plus, they threw in an interchangeable strap system, so you can switch between leather and metal effortlessly. 

Design-wise, the modern Cartier Santos is a dream. The square case has just the right amount of curve to hug your wrist comfortably. The bezel now flows seamlessly into the bracelet, giving the watch a more streamlined look. And those exposed screws are still there, loud and proud, as a nod to the watch’s industrial-chic vibe. 

When it comes to choosing a specific model, the Cartier Santos collection has plenty of choice. Want a classic white dial with Roman numerals? Got it. Prefer a skeletonized dial that shows off the movement? That’s on the menu too. Case materials? Take your pick from stainless steel, gold, two-tone, or even ADLC-coated black for a more modern edge. There’s a Santos for every taste and occasion. 

But while picking a dial design or case material feels relatively straightforward, deciding between the Medium and Large sizes can be a touch more difficult. After all, the Medium and Large are both gorgeous and they share much of the same DNA. So how do you choose?

Cartier Santos Large vs Medium – The Right Size for You 

I hate to break it to you but choosing between the Cartier Santos Medium and Large isn’t going to be easy, even with our advice. First of all, I highly recommend you head into your local authorised Cartier dealer and try these watches on for size – literally. It’s the best way to know which model will suit you best. But if that’s not possible, here are some tips on how to help you pick the right Cartier Santos for your wrist. 

First things first, neither of these watches should be considered small. While some brands use terms like “medium” or “mid-size” as code for “ladies’ watch,” Cartier isn’t playing that game here. The Santos Medium measures 35.1mm by 41.9mm, and trust me, even described as “medium”, it still makes a statement. Thanks to the square case design, it actually wears larger than a round watch of comparable size, so don’t let the “medium” label fool you. 

The Large, on the other hand, takes things up a notch. At 39.8mm by 47.5mm, it’s a serious wrist presence. It’s also a touch thicker, with a height of just over 9mm. This is the Santos that demands attention the moment it peeks out from under your cuff. 

It’s also worth considering the very slight difference in technology here. While both the Cartier Santos Medium and Large models are powered by the same movement, Cartier’s in-house calibre 1847 MC, the smaller variant comes without the classic date window at 6 o’clock. This might not make much difference to everybody, but I know plenty of watch collectors out there – myself included – that prefer a dateless display for a cleaner dial layout. 

But at the end of the day, both sizes are statement pieces. The Santos has never been a watch designed to fade into the background, it’s meant to be noticed. The polished bezel with exposed screws, bold Roman numerals, and square case all scream confidence and style. That said, the Medium offers a slightly more refined vibe. It’s bold, yes, but not overwhelming. It’s the kind of watch that fits a little more seamlessly into any setting, whether you’re at a business meeting or a casual dinner. The Large, however, is unapologetically bold. 

You will need to take into account your own wrist size, mainly for comfort. If your wrists are on the smaller side, the Medium will likely sit better. Its smaller dimensions make it less likely to feel bulky or overpowering, and it’s less prone to knocking into things during your daily routine. The Large, while still comfortable, is a heftier piece. On smaller wrists, it might feel a bit top-heavy, and there’s a higher chance of accidental bumps or scratches. But if your wrists are on the larger side, the Large Santos will sit beautifully, offering that perfect balance of presence and proportion.

Finally, there are a couple of design differences worth noting. While both share the core DNA like the square case, prominent screw-decorated bezel and in-house movement, certain dial designs or materials options are only exclusive to one size. For example, the Cartier Santos Large often gets more adventurous variations like a skeletonised dial which showcases the inner workings of the movement and cases in ADLC coating. 

Meanwhile, the Cartier Santos Medium sticks to the traditional dial layout with Roman numerals and cases in classic stainless steel and gold. This makes it an excellent choice for those who prefer the timeless elegance of the original Santos, and less so for those that want something a touch more modern. 

Who Should Go for the Medium?

The Cartier Santos Medium is perfect for someone who:

• Has smaller wrists (around 6-7 inches in circumference)
• Prefers a watch that’s bold but not overpowering
• Values a clean, minimalist dial without a date display
• Wants a piece that transitions effortlessly from day to night

The Santos Medium is for those who appreciate subtlety and elegance but still want a watch that makes a statement. It’s refined without being boring, and it’s comfortable enough to wear every day. 

Who Should Go for the Large?

The Cartier Santos Large is the watch for you if: 

• You have larger wrists (7 inches and up)
• You want a watch that turns heads and commands attention
• A date complication is a must-have feature
• You’re all about making bold style choices

The Santos Large is a statement piece in every sense of the word. It’s confident, daring, and unapologetically bolds so it’s perfect if you’re someone who isn’t afraid to stand out.

Conclusion 

So, there you have it, the Cartier Santos Medium vs. Large showdown. Ultimately, the choice comes down to you: your taste, your wrist size, and yes, even your budget. Both sizes are equally iconic, offering that perfect blend of boldness and sophistication that defines the Santos. 

If you prefer a slightly more understated look or have smaller wrists, the Medium is a fantastic option. It’s refined, comfortable, and still manages to make a statement without being overwhelming. On the flip side, the Large is for those who want to go all-in on presence and impact, particularly if your wrist can handle its bolder proportions. 

And we can’t leave without briefly mentioning the price difference. The Medium is a few hundred dollars less expensive than the Large. It’s likely not a dealbreaker for most of you, but it’s worth considering. I have no doubt that whichever you choose, you’ll just be glad you chose to invest in a watch as iconic as this. Honestly, the Cartier Santos is a brilliant timepiece in so many ways and is a talking point no matter the size.

The Cartier Panthere collection first hit the market in 1983, almost instantly becoming a classic variation that both watch enthusiasts and casual wearers can enjoy. It was then revived in 2017 in an attempt to modernize the piece and re-vamp it under a brand new light. 

The two variations offer a plethora of sizes, materials, and styles that each hold their own secrets and unique attributes, but how can you be sure that what you are buying truly fits your style? In this article, we will be exploring specifically how Cartier Panthere’s small and mini varieties differ and what you can expect from each size in order to know what fits you best.

The Cartier Panthere Collection

The first generation of Pantheres premiered in 1983. Cartier decided they wanted a watch that embodied what they were known best for, that being their prestigious jewelry that echoed a sense of luxury and refinement. Since then, they have steadily increased over the years, with each piece becoming more luxurious than the last. 

The watch was offered in a variety of sizes and materials, such as white and yellow gold, two-tone steel, and two-tone gold. The truly premium pieces offered a combination of materials and plenty of diamond-embedded models, fully displaying their broad range to satisfy their customer base. 

First-generation models were originally offered in five different sizes: mini, small, medium, large, and jumbo, but the sizing has been modified over time, with most first-generation sizes being dubbed as vintage pieces or discontinued altogether. An easy way to differentiate the sizes is to look at the date window and see where it resides. 

The Cartier Panthere was originally marketed to both men and women, with the mini and small editions being classified as lady watches, while the medium was unisex, and the large and jumbo were for men.  

The Panthere captured the essence of the ’80s and ’90s, embodying the fashion of that era while doing its best to boost innovation, standing out as a testimony that truly defined the era in which it was released. 

Many would consider the Cartier Panthere as the first “must-have” luxury watch of its time. The two-tone Panthere were some of the most popular of the collection, featuring stainless steel cases topped with an 18k gold bezel, and the bracelets were a mix of gold and steel links, giving it the flashy aesthetic that so many coveted in those days. 

Since the Panthere collection was released during the quartz revolution, it runs on quartz movement. This allows the Panthere case to be as slim as possible, assuring a comfortable fit regardless of size.

Over the years, Cartier has delivered some truly stunning dial designs for the original Panthere collection. Incorporating stones like malachite, lapis, and obsidian, along with anniversary dials decorated with the double C Cartier logo, the designers know what stands out to their audience and have perfected their designs to be recognizable even without the iconic logo. 

In 2004, Cartier discontinued its entire Panthere collection, leaving a gaping hole in the department’s jewelry collection. In an attempt to fill that hole, the Cartier Santos Demoiselle served as a substitute since its bracelet subtly mimicked that of a Panthere. 

Its time in the spotlight was brief, however. Most deemed the Demoiselle too sporty to fully take the place of the Panthere as it couldn’t quite reach the elevated level of glamour that the Panthere was so highly recognized for. Thankfully, over a dozen years after the discontinuation of the Panthere, it was brought back in 2017 for an entirely new generation to enjoy. 

Now, the Panthere line is better than ever, increasingly expanding with new sizes and dial designs to accommodate the revamped aesthetic of the new generation.  

In 2017, to kick off the collection, Cartier offered the modern Panthere in various metals across two sizes: small and medium. The current Panthere lineup, however, has been expanded to include mini models. 

Just like the previous series, this new lineup of Pantheres come in stainless steel, yellow gold, two-tone steel, two-tone gold, and white gold. Along with the new generation, Cartier has also released new colors. Pantheres can now come in two-tone rose gold, rounding out the collection while satisfying new desires that a new generation may crave. 

Older Vs Newer Panthere

Though difficult to notice at first, there are some minor differences between the older and newer generations of Cartier Panthere watches. For one, the newer collection no longer offers time and date models, limiting themselves exclusively to time only. The bracelets have also been updated to offer heavier links and an improved clasp. 

They also differ in material sizes and choices. There was no trace of rose gold in the previous collection, as that material is exclusive to the newer generation. The sizes have shifted as well, with the largest size of the new generation measuring 27mm, as opposed to the largest size of the older models, which was 29mm. 

Comparing a vintage mini with a modern mini will cause you to notice the lack of a traditional winding crown on the vintage. The older versions featured a push-piece on the case back that was used to set the time on the watch. New Panthere’s include traditional crowns that many new-gen watch lovers are far more accustomed to. 

A powerful testimony to the appeal of the Cartier brand is just how long the Panthere has been in style. Whether it be the iconic vintage look of the 80s and 90s or the remastered masterpieces that they still produce to this day, their fanbase has stayed true, expecting the very best throughout the years. Cartier has delivered time and time again, cementing the Panthere as an undeniable classic that will transcend time in the years to come. Its versatility makes it one of the most coveted pieces on the market. It can be worn anytime, anywhere, and will always catch the eye of any who sees it. The Panthere collection is worth investigating if you’re looking for a superb lady’s watch that is chic and easy to wear. Next, we will dive deeper into the different sizes and determine what fits best for whom.

Cartier Panthere Small vs Mini – The Right Size for You

When you are deciding between the mini or the small variant of the Cartier Panthere, consider the aesthetic impact each size brings to the table. The mini has a more delicate feel to it, exuding a particular kind of subtle charm, while the small tends to make a bolder statement. The small size also offers a broader range of color choices for the bracelet, as well as improved functionality. 

Taking a look inside the sizes, the small features a more advanced mechanism of movement, making it more precise while giving a more accurate reading. Because it is bigger, the small has more room to fit all of the complicated winding and intricate machinery necessary for a precise reading, meaning that if you prefer a watch that runs faster and is more accurate, the small is the way to go. 

It’s also important to look at the differences in pricing to determine which Panthere watch holds the most value and best suits your preferences. It’s difficult to narrow down an exact price on the two since retail and market prices drastically change every day, but it is safe to say that the mini is usually $1,000 cheaper than the small when looking at the retail value. When you have a deeper understanding of the market demand, it can critically assist your decision-making process, ensuring that the watch you select is appealing to you and holds its value over time. 

And, of course, the most obvious tip that I can give you is knowing your wrist size. Obviously, the small and mini watches are set apart by their sizing, so to be sure that you are purchasing a watch that will fit, take wrist measurements before making a decision. You’ll also notice the distinctive differences in wearability and comfort when examining the two sizes. Both sizes vary in strap options, affecting how they sit on your wrist, and the weight of variances contribute to overall comfort during extended wear. 

The good news is that both sizes can be customized with different materials, allowing the wearer to create their own aesthetic. When choosing what fits your piece best, consider the sizing. Some materials stand out in different sizes, so keep in mind that whatever materials you wish to display need to compliment the frame so that you are getting the most from your watch. 

It is important to understand how the shape and size can impact the overall look. Cartier gives you the choice to customize your Panthere. To ensure that what you choose best suits your taste, I would argue that it is necessary to study and learn all of the ins and outs of materials, shapes, dials, and sizing so that you can narrowly determine exactly what speaks to you. Pieces like these are investments. What you choose to purchase can hold a lasting impact on the long-term value. You are robbing yourself of a timeless classic if you fail to do adequate research and learn what is valuable and what is not. 

Conclusion

When looking at the exciting history of the Panthere, it is clear to me why this piece has become a household name for so many enthusiasts. I, for one, am grateful that Cartier felt the need to return this collection to its former glory, as there are truly some remarkable pieces in the lineup. When it comes to pieces like these, sizing matters. You obviously want something that is comfortable, but you also want something that fits your style. The best advice that I can give is that if you prefer a more chic, low-key, subtle tone, then go with the mini (providing that it fits your wrist, of course,) but if you want a bolder, more glamorous piece, go with the small. Although both will prove objectively more subtle when compared to bigger sizes. The beauty of the Panthere, however, is that there is no objective “this size is better than this one.” Though sizing is necessary to determine how well it fits, the Panthere relies heavily on personal customization as well, giving the wearer free rein to create their aesthetic, guaranteeing that no matter what size you pick, you will be truly amazed at the quality of this watch. 

It is impossible to state definitively what the best watch brand is. As with most other things, you can come up with a group of worthy candidates, but it’s all subjective, and everyone has their own valid opinions. However, I think we would all agree that there is one brand that is more well-known than any other. That would be Rolex.

Ask 10 random people on the street to name a luxury watch brand, and it is highly likely that all of them will say Rolex. Hans Wilsdorf was a brilliant marketer and to this day, the brand has nearly 100% recognition.

A gold Rolex is the classic retirement gift, graduation present, or trophy for a life 

accomplishment. For millions of people, a Rolex is their grail watch. There is, however, a downside to being this well-known. 

The world is full of nefarious types who counterfeit everything from artwork to musical instruments and even money. Fake timepieces abound and Rolex is counterfeited more than any other brand. Take a walk down Canal Street in Lower Manhattan, and you will see dozens of fake Rolexes for sale.

If you dream of landing one of these prestigious timepieces on your wrist, especially if the price tag is a bit out of your range, you may be tempted to search for bargains. It is all too easy to be tricked, as counterfeiters have become very sophisticated and made some watches look very close to the real thing. Here’s what you need to know before delving into the marketplace.

The Telltale Signs of a Fake Rolex

Before we begin, you should be warned about buying online. Unless the company is a reputable watch shop, be wary of buying a Rolex. Determining whether a watch is real or fake from pictures on a website is nearly impossible unless you are an expert. Always look at any Rolex you are considering buying in person.

The first thing to do is to heft the watch. Rolex uses high-quality 904L stainless steel, 18K gold, and other precious metals in their timepieces. Counterfeits use cheaper materials that weigh less. The watch should feel solid. If it feels light and cheap, do not buy it.

Next, look at the fit and finish. Examine every component, dial, hands, indices, bezel, and bracelet. If parts look poorly cut or polished or pieces don’t fit nicely together, it’s a fake. Rolex takes great pride in its timepieces, and it does not let poorly made watches leave the factory. 

Another thing to note is that if you are looking at a Rolex that has both day and date complications, it should be made of gold or platinum. Rolex does not make day-dates in stainless steel. That is a sure sign of a fake.

Check the case back. Rolex does have a few models with exhibition case-backs, but they are rare. If the back of the case is not solid, pass on the watch. In their quest for elegance, most Rolex case-backs are plain. There are a few that are engraved, but be suspicious if the watch you are looking at does not have a plain case-back.

The magnifier that sits above the date complication on the Submariner and other models is called a cyclops. Rolex invented it, and it magnifies the numeral exactly 2.5 times. It is coated on the inside with a clear anti-reflective substance. 

If you see a tint of color in the cyclops or the date is hard to read and reflects glare, the watch is a fake. The date numeral should also be in an easy-to-read font and be perfectly centered in the window.

Now, we are going to check the rehaut. This is the ring around the inner surface that connects the dial to the bezel. It should have the name “Rolex” engraved several times around the circumference. Further, on the side from 12 o’clock to six, the “X” should line up with the hour markers. On the six to 12 side, the “R” will line up with the hour markers.

The engraving should be easy to read and have a high-quality look to it. At the six o’clock side of the rehaut, the serial number should be engraved and easy to read. If a serial number is present, you can look it up online to get more information about the watch. On the outside of the case between the lugs above 12 o’clock, the model number should be engraved. To see it, you will have to remove the bracelet or strap.

Rolex has become very clever in adding features to indicate that a watch is genuine. In 2002, they began engraving a small crown logo on the crystal at six o’clock. It’s hard to see with the naked eye unless the lighting and angle are perfect. Using a loupe or magnifying glass is the best way to check.

If the crown is not there, the watch is a fake. Also, the crown will be made up of a series of laser-engraved dots of varying depth. This is extremely difficult for a counterfeiter to get right and is one of the best ways to verify whether a Rolex is real or not. 

Remove the case back and look at the movement. On a genuine Rolex, the parts will be perfectly machined and finished and fit together with no gaps. Fakes don’t have the quality machining or polished finish of the real thing. Check the movement by winding the watch. On a real Rolex, it will feel smooth and be easy to turn the crown. If the movement feels gritty and doesn’t wind with ease, it’s a fake. 

Note that although Rolex has made models with quartz movements, they are rare. The vast majority of Rolexes have automatic movements, so if it’s a quartz, that should raise red flags.

Speaking of the crown, the Rolex logo, which is a crown, should be perfectly embossed on the crown. On recent models, there will be two or three dots or bars beneath the logo. Counterfeiters consistently miss this detail. The grooves on the sides of the crown should be perfectly cut and uniform in size and depth.

In addition to the quality of the bracelet or strap, find out which Rolex pairs with the model you are looking at. If the strap or bracelet is wrong, the watch could be fake. It might also be real but placed on a fake bracelet. The wrong combo should make you question the authenticity.

Finally, the Rolex logo on the bracelet clasp should be crisp, clear, and perfectly embossed. Fakes usually get this wrong and often it’s a poorly cut logo soldered on.

Are Fake Rolex Watches Worth It?

Now that you know how to spot a fake Rolex, you might be tempted to buy one anyway because they are priced so much lower than the real thing. There are many companies that make what they call., “Super Clones”. Own an exact copy of a Submariner for $1,500. 

Don’t fall for this. First, these watches are made from inferior materials and use generic movements that are nowhere near as accurate, precise, or durable as a real Rolex. That’s why they’re so cheap.

The biggest problem with buying a fake Rolex is that counterfeiting is illegal in most jurisdictions. Watchmakers can copy an unpatented Rolex design as long as they put their own name and logo on it.

Using the Rolex name and logo is trademark infringement. These companies can be prosecuted for fraud and false advertising. In many places, it is illegal to own a counterfeit product. If you knowingly buy a fake, you could find yourself in legal trouble. Also, if you buy one, you are stuck with it. It is against the law in most countries to sell a counterfeit item even if you inform the potential buyer that it is a fake. 

I would thus advise you against buying a fake Rolex. The possible exposure to legal trouble, coupled with the fact that you are hurting the brand, no matter how wealthy it is, make it a really bad idea. Think about it. If it’s not real, you will always be aware of it and never have the satisfaction that real Rolex owners enjoy. As for prestige, the average person will rarely notice that you are even wearing a watch and a horology connoisseur will likely spot it as a fake. 

How to Avoid Getting a Fake Rolex

If you are in the market for a Rolex, you want to avoid getting stuck with a fake. The most important thing to do is to carefully vet any seller. Stick with a Rolex authorized dealer or a grey market shop with a sterling reputation. Avoid eBay and Craig’s list. They are loaded with shady types and you don’t know who you are dealing with. 

Don’t buy online unless the dealer has a great reputation. Check out the watch you are considering in person. Examine it thoroughly and look for all of the issues we discussed. Don’t be afraid to ask lots of questions. You are taking a big risk and are entitled to all information about the watch. If the seller is not forthcoming in answering your questions, get out of there.

If you have a friend who is very knowledgeable about watches, take them with you. By all means, do not even consider any “Rolex” that is being offered at a ridiculously low price. Even Rolex’s lowest-priced brand-new models are going to run north of $10,000. 

Conclusion

Rolex is easily the most well-known watch brand on the planet and it has an enormous number of fans. As such, it is the most counterfeited. If you dream of owning a Rolex, keep in mind that there are probably as many fakes out there as real ones.

Purchasing a fake Rolex or super clone is not worth it. Go with an AD or seller with an impeccable reputation and save your money to buy a genuine Rolex. You will be much happier. One more tip. If the name on the dial is spelled, “Rolecks”, it’s probably a fake. 

If you aren’t familiar with Tissot or Citizen watches, you must be new to watch collecting, because even those interested in high-end haute horlogerie know about these two key players in the industry. 

Both are leaders in affordable timepieces, and both have a lot to offer the beginner watch collector. In fact, either of these two brands is a great choice if you’re a novice. They promise good quality materials and reliability and offer an array of stylish timepieces to suit all tastes and needs.

While Citizen is a Japanese brand, Tissot’s heritage is firmly rooted in Swiss soil. The former specializes in eco-friendly technology, while you can consider the latter a gateway to affordable luxury. 

Either way, whether you choose the popular Japanese giant or the famous Swiss hard-hitter, you can’t go wrong when it comes to finding a day-to-day companion without burning a hole in your pocket. But what many people are interested in knowing is how they both compare. Let’s take a look as we address the Tissot vs Citizen watch debate.

Tissot – An Overview

Tissot is an expert in crafting affordable yet stylish wristwatches. Not only does the brand offer its fair share of solar-powered timepieces, but its mechanical wristwatches are also incredibly popular. 

The brand bridges the gap between traditional-looking timepieces and modern innovation, having experienced huge success with its T-Touch technology back in the 1990s, not to mention its classically-inspired sports watch category. 

The Tissot PRX is one watch design you’ll likely be familiar with. It’s one of the brand’s most celebrated models, inspired by iconic designs created by the legendary Gerald Genta during the 1970s. Those looking for a cheaper alternative to the Royal Oak or Nautilus, therefore, will find the Tissot PRX a good fit.

That’s not to say that Tissot doesn’t offer something for those who like the great outdoors, however. The models from the Touch series are powered by quartz movements and allow users to access the features they need via a touchscreen. 

These technical watches come equipped with features like an altimeter, chronograph, barometer, step counter, and compass. Although slightly confusing, the PRX watch is part of the Swiss brand’s T-Classic collection, while sporty models like the Seastar and PRS are part of the T-Sports collection.

Above all, Tissot watches come in a huge variety of styles and features, including ETA movements and those that promise up to 80 hours of power reserve, promising outstanding value for money.

Citizen – An Overview

Citizen made waves in the industry from an early age with its ground-breaking technological advances. It has become one of the largest manufacturers in the entire world since its birth during the 1930s. 

If you’ve been doing your research on the brand, you’ll already be aware that Citizen is a key player in the realm of solar-powered timepieces with its Eco-Drive series, and it specializes in atomic time via GPS technology. 

The fact is, Eco-Drive technology and its innovative solar-powered features made many other Citizen watches redundant at the time of its release, yet this didn’t deter the brand or its success.

The advantages of Citizen’s Eco-Drive watches became obvious from the get-go. They were (and still are) incredibly precise, promising to keep accurate time, even when only exposed to light for a short period of time. 

The fact that they could sit dormant in a drawer for months, yet require just moments of sunlight to power back into action, made them super convenient and better for the environment, too, saving many battery replacements throughout their lifespan.

Some Citizen Eco-Drive watches even have a power saver mode that proves particularly useful when worn in dark conditions for periods of time. 

Exploring Citizen watches can be quite overwhelming, due to the sheer amount of options on offer, yet collections like the Elegant, Sports, Promaster, and Super Titanium prove the most popular, offering a myriad of styles and designs to choose from.

The Mechanical Classic series is another great place to explore if you want watches with respectable water-resistant capability. In contrast, the Promaster Sky model from the aforementioned Promaster series is a pilot’s watch with a twist, offering radio versions, some of which feature lightweight titanium cases, as well as countless features for calculating flight data while air-bound.

Brand Histories

A quick look at the histories of Tissot and Citizen will give you a little insight into their backgrounds and how they compare to one another. Looking at both side-by-side will hopefully enable you to make an informed decision about which brand is best for you.

Out of the two, Tissot is the oldest watch brand, arriving on the scene in 1853. The brand was responsible for developing the first mass-produced pocket watch, as well as the first anti-magnetic watch. 

It partnered up with Omega around the time that Citizen was born, granting it access to some incredible movements and great success with models like the Tissot Navigator – the first mass-produced watch featuring 24 time zones, along with the Tissot Seastar. The quartz revolution had a huge impact on Tissot’s watch production. 

Switching tactics, it played the quartz game, finding ways to survive its crushing effect on the mechanical watch industry. This tactical solution, however, opened up the pathway for one of the brand’s most revolutionary designs, the Tissot T-Touch, which arrived in 1999.

On the other hand, we have Citizen, a brand that truly thrived throughout the quartz era. The company has always focussed on two things: affordability and technology. It created Japan’s first fully waterproof watch in 1959, named the Parawater. 

This sparked the beginnings of the brand’s innovative dive watch series, but meanwhile, Citizen experts were focussing on something altogether different – Eco-Drive technology. It was one of the first solar-powered wristwatches, taking pride in an environmentally conscious approach to modern watchmaking.

In 1993, Citizen released a world first – a multi-band atomic timekeeping wristwatch. It worked by synchronizing and adjusting its time with atomic clocks all over the world. In doing so, it promised accuracy down to the nanosecond.

Citizen or Tissot – Movement and Technology

When comparing Citizen watches side-by-side with Tissot watches, it’s clear to see that both excel in terms of timekeeping technology. The features offered by a T-Touch watch from Tissot are similar to those you would find in a modern smartwatch, providing you with important metrics in real-time, as you go. 

On the other hand, Citizen mostly specializes in solar-powered quartz technology, which harnesses the energy from light and converts that into power used for accurate timekeeping. The benefit of this technology eradicates the need for regular battery replacements, allowing you to technically forget about your watch while you wear it. 

In contrast, Tissot’s automatic watches offer a collector a more traditional way to keep track of time, adding to the charm and the appeal of mechanical timekeeping. While quartz watches are easy to maintain, many connoisseurs share the opinion that they’re too simple, lacking the craftsmanship and complexity of a mechanical.

Tissot vs Citizen – Aesthetics and Design

Citizen watches vary from complex, futuristic-looking timepieces to those inspired by Japanese minimalism, affording simplistic, clean dial layouts despite the sophistication of their built-in solar-powered technology. 

On the other hand, Tissot watches are favored for their classic designs. Traditional three-handed models sit alongside timeless chronographs, while different dial colors and two-tone (steel and gold-colored) options add more variety to the collections.

Both brands have plenty to offer by way of design, features, and case sizes. Tissot is a great brand to turn to if you’re looking for an affordable sports watch, while Citizen has a superb range of tool watches from the Promaster series – a collection for land, sea, and sky.

Tissot Watches – the Best Recommendations

One easy way to determine whether a Tissot is for you or not is to take a look at some recommendations.

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 T137.407.11.351.00

This Tissot Powermatic reference T137.407.11.351.00 is a great example that shows off all the sporty elegance of the Swiss brand’s popular PRX collection. Its dial, adorned with a distinctive waffle pattern, follows the design cues of the embossed dials seen in models like the Royal Oak and its iconic Grand Tapisserie dial. 

Its turquoise shade is reminiscent of the Tiffany dial that is showcased in the Patek Philippe Nautilus range, while its integrated bracelet is a must-have feature of any covetable steel sports watch. With sweet spot dimensions of 40mm, the Tissot PRX really is an entry-level into the world of sports watch collecting and is powered by a movement that provides an impressive 80 hours of power reserve.

Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80

Take a look at the gradient dial of this Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 watch. Perhaps the most inviting tones for gearing up for underwater exploration. And when taking this watch for a dip, you get to enjoy an impressive 600 meters of water resistance! 

The unidirectional bezel in black has a very readable 60-minute scale on its surface. You can also opt for the Seastar 2000 model with a black and gold gilt-coloured bezel, but there is something so sporty and tool-like about this blue gradient iteration, complete with a subtle wave-like surface texture that evokes the rippling waters of the ocean’s surface.

Citizen Watches – the Best Recommendations

Take a look at a couple of these superb bang-for-buck Citizen watch recommendations before deciding which brand is for you.

Citizen Promaster Diver Automatic Super Titanium NB6021-17E

Citizen offers some great dive watches in its Super Titanium watch collection – a series of timepieces that benefit from the lightweight and tactical nature of this popular material used in watchmaking. Take, for example, the Citizen Promaster Diver Automatic Super Titanium watch. 

It requires a broad wrist to carry its bold black-on-black case and strap design, yet its heft is cleverly counterbalanced by the lightweight qualities of the 200-meter water-resistant case. This watch is inspired by a historically important watch from Citizen’s archives – the 1977 Challenge Diver, which was found completely intact in 1983 on Long Reef Beach in Australia, having been exposed to the conditions of the Pacific Ocean for years. Thus, a model like this will appeal to those who like their watches to carry a little history and nostalgia.

Citizen Zenshin Chrono CA4610-85Z

The great thing about Citizen watches is the brand’s lightweight alternatives to the steel sports watch. The Citizen Zenshin Chrono ref CA4610-85Z has the integrated bracelet that collectors love so much about this style of watch. Crafted from Super Titanium, the watch features stepped chronograph counters in black against a textured salmon dial. 

A tachymeter scale also comes in handy for measuring speed based on distance. This watch is powered by Eco-Drive technology, and it never needs a battery. It promises 100 meters of water resistance and a tough sapphire crystal glass front.

The Tissot PRX or the Citizen Tsuyosa – A Comparison

One of the main comparisons collectors make when weighing up whether to purchase a Tissot watch or a Citizen watch is the Tissot PRX and the Citizen Tsuyosa. Both are easy to compare since they offer a similar aesthetic and are both powered by automatic movements.

Both the Citizen Tsuyosa and the Tissot PRX sit under the $1k bracket. The brand also offers a 40mm case width and a tonneau case shape that captures the ultra-popular steel sports watch aesthetic. Some subtle differences, however, include the case thickness – the Citizen Tsuyosa, which measures slightly thicker (12.2mm) than the PRX (11.2mm). 

This slight difference automatically means that the Tsuyosa will wear a little flatter against the wrist and will slide under the cuff of a shirt more easily. The latter also measures 1mm less in its lug-to-lug dimensions, too.

At a glance, the most obvious difference between these Citizen and Tissot watches is the dial finish. The Tsuyosa has a smooth sunray effect, while the PRX has the aforementioned waffle effect. 

Again, choosing between the two is simply down to preference, but if it’s an affordable Royal Oak you’re looking for, the PRX wins hands down on that front. An interesting feature of the Tsuyosa is the magnified lens above the date window at 3 o’clock, which the PRX lacks.

Bracelet-wise, the Citizen sports watch boasts rounded end links, while the Tissot sports watch has flatter links that are more reminiscent of models from a bygone era. The Tsuyosa is powered by a very basic Miyota movement. 

Nevertheless, it’s a reliable workhorse, producing a steady 40 hours of power reserve. Conversely, Tissot equips its PRX watch with the refined Powermatic engine, which is complete with double the power reserve of the Tsuyosa.

Although both of these watches are very similar in terms of design and features, in my opinion, the PRX wins over the Tsuyosa for a couple of reasons. 

Firstly, the PRX has a slightly more ergonomic design, sitting flatter on the wrist and making it more suited to office environments. Secondly, for a couple of hundred bucks more, you can enjoy a movement with double the power reserve, and the execution of the dial evokes a superior and more sophisticated finish.

Which is the Right Brand for You?

We can simplify the Tissot vs Citizen debate by looking at the key facts about each brand. Tissot offers some great affordable automatic watches for under $500, which make for absolute steals compared to the price of some Swiss alternatives. 

The company quickly learned how to take Swiss craftsmanship and convert it into designs that appealed to the mass market, and it certainly paid off. Some automatic Tissot watches are powered by mechanical movements that provide longer power reserves too, and even feature exhibition casebacks.

Above all, Tissot watches can be as classic and simple as you like, many of which exude a sportiness that makes for some great casual daily beaters.

Citizen watches cover a slightly broader price spectrum, with models priced as low as $200 for an Eco-Drive watch. Their aesthetics have a strong utilitarian vibe, while plenty of simple quartz models have classic aesthetics.

So, Citizen or Tissot – which is the better brand? The answer to that quandary really lies in personal preference and remains a matter of priority. Are you willing to splash out a little more for an automatic Tissot, or is the unbeatable precision of a Citizen watch more important to you?

When first venturing into the world of watches, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed by the variety of models, styles, and terminology. Like any hobby, understanding the jargon is key to navigating the wealth of information surrounding wristwatches. 

Every timepiece you wear carries a rich history, beginning with its purpose. Since their inception, watches have been essential tools, often playing pivotal roles in the history of various professions. Among these, the dive watch is one of the most iconic and enduring designs.

Dive watches have become a favorite among enthusiasts for daily wear. Both seasoned collectors and newcomers alike agree that a dive watch is a cornerstone of any collection. With countless options spanning brands, price points, and depth ratings, there’s a dive watch to suit every style and need. 

Originally designed as a tool for divers exploring the ocean’s depths, these timepieces have evolved into icons of horology, with historic models from some of the world’s most renowned brands cementing their status as timeless staples. Let’s take a brief dive into the history of dive watches. 

History of Diving Watches

In the 1920s, as wristwatches began to replace pocket watches, designers faced the challenge of creating cases that could better protect the delicate mechanisms inside. While a patent for a waterproof pocket watch had been introduced in the late 1800s, dust and water remained significant threats to early wristwatches. 

This period marked the beginning of innovations that would eventually lead to the development of fully water-resistant watches. Developments that might have taken decades under normal circumstances were rapidly accelerated by the necessity and urgency brought about by war.

World War I united the watchmaking industry with military forces worldwide to design wristwatches capable of withstanding the harsh and unforgiving conditions soldiers faced on the battlefield. 

This collaboration led to the development of watches robust enough to endure the pressures of submarine missions. Featuring screw-down casebacks and crowns, compressible gaskets, and highly legible dials, the best was still yet to come. In 1926, Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, introduced one of the first truly waterproof watches: the Rolex Oyster. 

This groundbreaking timepiece featured a screw-down caseback, bezel, and crown, with the crown mechanism incorporating a seal ring to prevent water ingress. These innovations established the Oyster as a pioneering design in waterproof watches. 

Despite these advancements, designers didn’t yet realize they were laying the groundwork for something greater. While their focus was on creating a waterproof watch, they were inadvertently developing the foundation for what would become the first authentic dive watch.

In 1932, Omega introduced the “Marine,” a groundbreaking wristwatch designed, tested, and certified to withstand depths of up to 135 meters. Featuring a cork-sealed double case and a sapphire crystal, the “Marine” was a true innovation in waterproof technology. Its exceptional performance earned the endorsement of Yves Le Prieur, a commander and pioneering aquanaut often referred to as the grandfather of scuba diving.

While the “Marine” was a remarkable achievement, the postwar era saw a surge in demand for more durable and reliable dive watches as scuba diving gained popularity. This growing interest spurred watchmakers to innovate, laying the foundation for the modern dive watch. 

The early 1950s marked a pivotal moment with the debut of two of the most iconic and influential timepieces designed specifically for diving. Their groundbreaking designs and features would set the standard for all dive watches that followed. 

In 1954, Rolex unveiled their legendary “Submariner” at the Basel Watch Fair. Although the brand had previously tested its “Deep Sea” model aboard the Trieste in 1953, reaching an astonishing depth of 3,150 meters, it was the Submariner that truly defined the dive watch category. Featuring a highly legible dial, a rotating bezel for tracking dive times, and a bracelet extension to fit over wetsuits, the Submariner became an instant commercial success.

Around the same time, Blancpain introduced their groundbreaking “Fifty Fathoms,” an equally impressive dive watch that prioritized functionality and durability. 

While the Submariner gained widespread public acclaim, the Fifty Fathoms became the preferred choice of military units worldwide, solidifying its place as a classic among professional divers.

Top 10 Best Watches For Divers

A century later, the dive watch has secured its place at the top of every enthusiast’s want and need list. Its enduring appeal transcends its original purpose, making it a coveted accessory for collectors, professionals, and casual wearers alike. 

Combining robust functionality with timeless design, the dive watch remains a symbol of adventure and reliability, evolving with the times while staying true to its roots. 

An essential part of any watch collection, the dive watch seamlessly blends functionality and style. Perfect for daily wear, these timepieces are versatile enough to switch effortlessly between metal bracelets, leather, or NATO straps. 

Whether you’re a professional diver or a casual swimmer, dive watches offer reliability and elegance for any occasion. Here are the top ten dive watches on the market, ready to take the plunge into the depths with you.

1. TUDOR Pelagos 42mm (ref. M25600TN-0001)

First on our list is the TUDOR Pelagos, a dive watch that lives up to its name, derived from the Greek word for “deep sea.” Introduced in 2012, the Pelagos quickly became a favorite among horology and diving enthusiasts. 

It features a 42mm case crafted from steel and titanium, making it both lightweight and durable. The unidirectional black ceramic bezel pairs seamlessly with the matching dial, which includes a date window at 3 o’clock. With a robust 70-hour power reserve, an impressive 500 meters of water resistance, and a helium escape valve at the 9 o’clock position, the Pelagos is a stylish and highly functional tool, perfect for deep-sea exploration. 

This remarkable timepiece is available at a retail price of $5,025

2. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (ref. 210.30.42.20.03.001)

Omega has crafted numerous iconic timepieces throughout its rich history, and the Seamaster Diver 300M is yet another masterpiece in its lineup. From accompanying deep-sea explorers to gracing the wrist of Agent 007 on the silver screen, this model is a symbol of both function and style. 

At Baselworld 2018, Omega unveiled a refreshed design that quickly became a favorite among enthusiasts. The Seamaster Diver 300M features a 42mm stainless steel case and is powered by the Calibre 8800, offering a 55-hour power reserve and certified precision. Its striking design includes a blue unidirectional ceramic bezel, a textured blue wave-patterned dial, and a date window positioned at 6 o’clock. 

A helium escape valve at 10 o’clock adds a functional touch for saturation divers. Priced at $5,900, this modern classic combines rich heritage, cutting-edge technology, and the flair of cinematic legend—ready for your next dive or a secret mission.

3. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm Black Dial (ref. 5010 12B30 B52B)

No list of iconic dive watches is complete without the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. If it’s missing, that list simply doesn’t hold water. Priced at $18,400, the Fifty Fathoms Automatique transcends the realm of luxury dive watches, representing the pinnacle of dive watch engineering and design. 

This legendary timepiece stands apart, setting the standard for underwater timekeeping. Crafted with a 42mm titanium case, a unidirectional black bezel, and a matching minimalist black dial, the Fifty Fathoms is designed for optimal legibility in any condition. With an impressive 300-meter water resistance, this watch is built to endure the most demanding underwater environments. 

Its standout feature, however, is the remarkable 120-hour power reserve, powered by Blancpain’s Calibre 1315 movement—a testament to the brand’s dedication to innovation and reliability. Whether you’re a professional diver or a hobbyist passionate about exploring the deep, the Fifty Fathoms is the ultimate diver’s watch, combining functionality, history, and enduring style in one exceptional timepiece.

4. Rolex Sea-Dweller (ref. 126600)

Much like the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, but carving its own distinct legacy, the history between Rolex and dive watches spans decades. This storied relationship is celebrated and honored with the Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 126600. 

Released in 2017 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Sea-Dweller, this reference is a modern reinterpretation of a legendary tool watch. While it may not enjoy the widespread market appeal of Rolex’s more iconic models, the Sea-Dweller remains a true diver’s companion, crafted for those who venture into the depths. 

The ref. 126600 boasts a robust 43mm Oystersteel case, powered by Rolex’s in-house Calibre 3235, offering an impressive 70-hour power reserve. Its design features a sleek black rotating bezel, a matching black dial, and a Cyclops lens over the date at 3 o’clock. This professional-grade dive watch is water-resistant to an astounding 1220 meters, making it a reliable and stylish choice for serious underwater adventurers. 

Priced at $13,250, the Sea-Dweller ref. 126600 is a testament to Rolex’s heritage and engineering excellence.

5. Grand Seiko Sports SBGA463

Out of all the brands on this list, seeing a Grand Seiko entry might initially seem surprising. However, when you consider the roots of this luxury brand, it’s no wonder that Seiko crafted a high-grade tool watch capable of competing with the best dive watches on the market. 

Released in the winter of 2021 alongside the SBGA461, the SBGA463 exemplifies Grand Seiko’s commitment to merging luxury with functionality. Constructed from high-intensity titanium, this dive watch offers a robust water resistance of 200 meters. 

Its 44mm case features a ceramic rotating bezel with clearly marked hour indicators, perfectly paired with an understated black dial emphasizing simplicity and utility. Equipped with LumiBrite on the hands, markers, and bezel, the SBGA463 guarantees exceptional legibility, even in low-light underwater environments. 

True to Grand Seiko’s mission of redefining what a wristwatch is capable of in both style and function, the SBGA463 delivers on all fronts. Priced at $7,300, it strikes the perfect balance between luxury and efficiency, making it an ideal choice for divers and enthusiasts.

6. Oris Aquis Date 43.5mm (ref. 01 733 7730 4134-07 8 24 05PEB)

In a world dominated by Swiss brands, especially in the dive watch segment, the Oris Aquis Date is a standout entry-level timepiece that delivers exceptional value. Priced at $2,400, the Aquis Date combines style and substance with its robust 43mm stainless steel case and an impressive 300 meters of water resistance. 

Powered by the reliable Oris caliber 733-1, it offers a 41-hour power reserve, ensuring consistent performance. The watch features a sleek black rotating bezel and a matching black dial, complete with a date window conveniently placed at the 6 o’clock position.

For those new to dive watches and seeking a high-quality option under $5,000, the Oris Aquis Date is an excellent choice that balances affordability and functionality.

7. Longines Hydroconquest GMT (ref. L3.790.4.96.6)

By no means am I adding this watch to the list out of bias, but I’d be lying if I said the Longines HydroConquest wasn’t one of my personal favorites. Introduced in 2007, this collection reimagined the dive watch with a contemporary aesthetic, setting itself apart from Longines’ more vintage-inspired models like the Legend Diver and Skin Diver. 

In 2023, the HydroConquest collection saw a remarkable enhancement by introducing a GMT feature powered by Longines’ new in-house caliber L844.5. One model from this line features a striking deep blue ceramic rotating bezel with bold hour markers, perfectly complemented by a matching blue dial and a date window at the 3 o’clock position. 

With a 41mm case, 300 meters of water resistance, and a modern design, the HydroConquest GMT is a testament to Longines’ ability to blend functionality and style. It’s the latest marvel to emerge from the Longines camp, embodying the brand’s continued commitment to excellence.

8. Seiko LX Prospex SNR029

As mentioned previously, it should come as no surprise that Seiko earns a spot on the list of top ten tool watches. With a long-standing reputation for creating reliable, innovative, and accessible timepieces, Seiko has consistently showcased its expertise in designing watches that endure both daily wear and extreme conditions. 

This is exemplified by the Seiko LX Prospex SNR029. With “Prospex” standing for “Professional Specifications,” the SNR029 meets the highest standards of quality expected from a professional-grade dive watch. Housed in a lightweight yet robust 44mm titanium case, this timepiece is powered by the Caliber 5R65 Spring Drive movement, a hallmark of precision and innovation also seen in Grand Seiko models.

Boasting 300 meters of water resistance, a highly legible dial, and a ceramic rotating bezel, the SNR029 is a flawless companion for professional divers. Priced at $6,500, it represents a premium offering in Seiko’s lineup, combining technical prowess with enduring style.

9. Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Ceramic Edition Blue and White (ref. ZO9590)

While the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms dominated the spotlight in the 1950s dive watch scene, a smaller Swiss brand quietly made waves with its own noteworthy contribution. 

Zodiac, a brand with deep roots in horology, gained recognition in the 1970s with the release of the Super Sea Wolf, boasting an impressive 750-meter water resistance. This innovative dive watch was a significant achievement for the era and solidified Zodiac’s place in the dive watch category. Today, the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf ZO9590 maintains its legacy with a modern twist. It features a light blue rubber bracelet, a white rotating bezel, and a dark blue dial. 

Housed in a durable 41mm ceramic case, the watch is powered by the Caliber STP 1-11, offering a 44-hour power reserve and 200 meters of water resistance. Priced at $1,795, the ZO9590 offers great value for a dive watch that combines style, functionality, and a rich history.

10. DOXA 1500T Caribbean (ref. 883.10.201.10)

The last entry on our list is certainly not the least in terms of diving efficiency. Inspired by the iconic SUB 300, DOXA’s 1500T is a titan when it comes to specifications. 

With a robust 1500-meter water resistance, this timepiece is built to withstand extreme depths, making it a true tool watch for professional divers. The 1500T is equipped with a ceramic bezel, a striking orange dial, and a 42mm titanium case, providing both durability and a bold, eye-catching design. 

Powered by the Swiss-made ETA 2824-2 movement, the 1500T ensures precise timekeeping under the most challenging conditions. With its unique design, unparalleled performance, and decent price point of $2,490, the DOXA 1500T stands as a powerful contender in the world of dive watches.

Conclusion

If you’re in the market for a durable, stylish everyday watch, dive watches are an excellent place to start. They strike the perfect balance between functionality and design, offering qualities that any enthusiast can appreciate. All the watches on our list boast rich histories, impeccable style, and the capability to explore depths once thought unimaginable.