Category: News

There are few watches in Grand Seiko’s portfolio that don’t turn heads. These luxury timepieces often have jaw-dropping dial textures and cutting-edge movements that are hard to find elsewhere, especially at the price points the Japanese watchmaker offers them. 

But there are a handful of Grand Seiko watches that fly under the radar. Not because they’re not spectacular in their own right but because they’re often overshadowed by releases with more fascinating complications or more intricate dials. 

Yet, it’s sometimes not the loud, headline-grabbing releases that are the best. The quiet, subtle ones that sneak up on you with their subtlety and refinement usually become the ideal daily beaters. 

One such watch is the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301. Before today, it wasn’t a watch I’d had any hands-on time with, and that was predominantly because most of my focus had been on other releases. But after receiving the SBGH301 and wearing it on my wrist this past week, I’m feeling almost guilty having not given it the time of day.

The Evolution of the 44GS

When the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat collection launched in 2023, it didn’t exactly steal the spotlight. And honestly, that’s not surprising. 

Grand Seiko had so many incredible releases that year, including the groundbreaking Tentagraph, that it’s understandable that some of the more “basic” time-only watches didn’t get much attention. 

But the 44GS collection has never really been about flash or theatrics anyway. Instead, the new line-up quietly refined an iconic 1960s Grand Seiko, focusing on subtle changes that made all the difference. 

The Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 is part of an understated yet meaningful refresh. 

It replaced the lighter grey SBGH279 in the time-and-date segment of the Heritage Collection, introducing a darker, moodier dial that feels richer and more connected to its inspiration. 

Grand Seiko’s strategy here wasn’t to reinvent the wheel but to perfect what was already working. The tweaks to the case, bracelet, and especially the dial brought this series into sharper focus for collectors who crave those incremental improvements. 

Joining this release were four additional references, too. Alongside the SBGH301, we saw the SBGH299 (silver dial) step in for the SBGH277 and new GMT models like the SBGJ263 and SBGJ265. Each one felt like a natural evolution, balancing Grand Seiko’s signature craftsmanship with a fresh perspective.

A View of Mt. Iwate 

Although different in their own right, the five new Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat watches are connected by one major inspiration: Mount Iwate. 

Towering near the brand’s Shizukuishi Watch Studio in Japan, this mountain has become not just a breathtaking backdrop to all their hard work but an endless source of inspiration. The studio, where every single one of Grand Seiko’s mechanical watches is meticulously crafted, has windows that frame stunning views of the mountain. 

Each watch in the latest 44GS Hi-Beat series draws from a unique element of the mountain. Some dials reflect the look of snow or rain as it cascades down its rugged slopes, while others, like the ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ SBGH301, capture a specific moment in time. 

This particular piece is inspired by the serene beauty of dusk, the way shadows dance across the mountain’s surface, and the texture of the rock darkening as the sun sets. The dial’s intricate pattern mimics this interplay of light and shadow, creating an effect that’s both subtle and captivating – but more on that shortly.

An Ever-Brilliant Steel Case 

The Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 watch and its 2023 counterparts mark only the second time the brand has ever used Ever-Brilliant steel in non-limited form. The only other occurrence before this was the SLGH013, launched in 2022. It’s quite a big deal, especially for watch collectors like myself who really value durability. 

Unlike standard stainless steel, Ever-Brilliant Steel is an advanced alloy with a Pitting Resistance Equivalent Number (PREN) 1.7 times higher than the 316L steel used in most luxury watches. This means it’s incredibly resistant to rust and corrosion and is much more likely to survive daily life. 

Plus, beyond durability, the metal has a unique bright white finish that is beautiful, and when combined with the intricate Zaratsu polishing techniques Grand Seiko is famous for, the result is breathtaking. 

The case itself is inspired by the original 44GS from 1967, which set the blueprint for Grand Seiko’s iconic “Grammar of Design.” With its angular lines, flat surfaces, and delicate curves, the case feels sculptural yet functional. 

At 40mm in diameter, 46.2mm from lug-to-lug, and 13.29mm thick, it’s perfectly proportioned for everyday wear. While not the slimmest of cases, its dimensions feel balanced, and the subtle curves of the lugs help it sit comfortably on the wrist.

Zaratsu polishing is used on almost the entirety of the case, from the fixed bezel to the lug tops and case sides. This incredible finish is achieved by pressing the precious metal against a spinning tin plate which creates this mirror-like surface. 

It’s completely distortion-free and reflects the light a lot like a mirror. There are some thoughtful brushed sections strategically placed on the case too, such as on the sharp outer flank. These minute details, although barely noticeable, add contrast and emphasize the geometric design of the 44GS case.

The Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 watch features double-domed sapphire crystal on top, coated with an anti-reflective layer on the inner surface for enhanced durability and legibility. 

Flip the watch over, and you’ll find a sapphire display case back, too, one that offers a view of the remarkable Hi-Beat movement ticking away inside. The case also sports a screw-down crown at 3 o’clock embossed with the GS logo, providing 10 bar (100 meters) of water resistance.

The Detail Is In The Dial

Typically, my favorite feature of a Grand Seiko watch is the dial, and although the ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 is one of the Japanese watch brand’s simpler designs, it’s still beautiful. 

While technically dark gray, its tone shifts subtly depending on the light, giving it a dynamic quality that keeps your wrist glancing interesting. It’s understated but rich, offering a depth that’s hard to capture in photos (as always for Grand Seiko) but impossible to ignore in person.

The centerpiece of the design is Grand Seiko’s iconic Mount Iwate pattern, inspired by the ridged slopes of the mountain visible from the Shizukuishi Studio. The pattern radiates from the center like a sunburst, but it’s more refined than your typical sunburst dial. 

It mimics the texture of dusk settling over the mountain, similar to the way the fading light interacts with the rugged peaks. It’s a quiet yet powerful tribute to nature and once again captures Grand Seiko’s love of their country and nature.

The dial is clean and simple, which, for me, only enhances the watch’s elegance. There’s no fussy power reserve indicator or GMT scale, just a simple selection of three hands and the date. 

Like the case, all the hardware seen on the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 watch’s dial is hand-finished. The razor-sharp dauphine-style hour and minute hands are brushed on top and polished on the edges, while the baton-style indices are hand-applied and faceted, combining brushed and polished surfaces to catch the light beautifully.

A polished-framed date window at 3 o’clock adds a touch of practicality without disrupting the symmetry, while the white-on-black date wheel is a fantastic choice, keeping the dark backdrop concise but still providing easy readability. The only other features to note are the applied GS logo at 12 o’clock crowning lettering for Grand Seiko and matching text at 6 o’clock, which notes the Hi-Beat movement inside.

A Hi-Beat Movement 

For its movement, the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 elects their in-house Caliber 9S85. Known as a high-beat movement, it operates an incredible frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5Hz, which allows it to measure time with remarkable precision and stability. 

But with a high-beat movement that oscillates faster than traditional calibers there are some challenges. For example, although it improves accuracy, it does put greater demand on the movement’s components and thus affects both the power reserve and durability.

But of course, in typical Grand Seiko fashion, they worked to overcome these issues and patented several in-house technologies to tackle them. One of them is their MEMS (Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems) technology, which allows for the precise crafting of components that are lighter, stronger, and smoother. 

Another is their use of Spron alloys in the mainspring and hairspring. These proprietary materials provide greater elasticity and resistance to shock, wear, and temperature variations. This not only enhances the movement’s durability but also extends the power reserve to 55 hours. This is incredibly impressive for a high-beat caliber. 

The Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 is also wonderfully accurate, boasting a rating of -3 to +5 seconds per day. This not only meets but exceeds the rigorous standards of the Swiss COSC certification (-4 to +6 seconds per day). 

To ensure the reliability of its accuracy claim, the Caliber 9S85 is placed under a 17-day testing period where it is assessed in six different positions and at three temperatures, ensuring consistent accuracy in real-world conditions. 

As mentioned, the automatic movement is visible through the sapphire crystal case back, framed by a stunning beaded edge that naturally draws your attention to the decoration inside. Decoration includes 37 jewels, striped plates and perlage.

An Ever-Brilliant Steel Bracelet

Completing the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 watch is an Ever-Brilliant steel bracelet to match the case. It’s a beautiful bracelet in many ways. The finishing in particular is gorgeous, but there are a few points here that let the watch down slightly. 

But let’s start with the good points first. I love the architecture and the way the links stagger in formation, size and finish. It looks fantastic and really adds to the watch’s dressy and sporty personality. 

For finishing, Grand Seiko have elected a mix of brushed and polishing components. The wonderful, beveled edges and inner flanks gleam with Zaratsu polishing while the majority of the bracelet’s surface is brushed.  The clasp is solid, too. It’s a twin-trigger release, so it stays put and doesn’t just pop open when you least expect it. You’ll also find the Grand Seiko logo embossed in relief on top of the clasp. 

Now here’s the “but”. Micro-adjustment on the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301’s bracelet is almost nil. There are some half links on each end of the bracelet and screw links for easy adjustment, but to get that perfect fit will be a little tricky. The 19mm lug width is also a little awkward, but not the end of the world. Although it might not be easy to find a huge number of 19mm replacement straps, swapping them out will be easy thanks to the drilled lugs.

On-Wrist Experience

After just a couple of days of wearing the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 watch, I decided this was one of those easy-to-throw-on watches. It’s pretty much the perfect everyday companion. You don’t have to baby it since it’s relatively durable thanks to its Ever Brilliant Steel construction. It’s just nice to wear a watch you know will hold up against those daily bumps and scrapes. The finish of the steel is also stunning, keeping things classy and sophisticated. 

And of course, you have the dial. At first glance, it’s all business: a classic black sunburst finish that could easily pass for a formal dress watch. But get up close and it’s got a whole secret life going on. The intricate, raindrop-esque texture and the way it plays with the light is beautiful. It makes it dressy enough for a big meeting or a nice dinner, but it’s also subtle enough that you don’t feel like you’re overdressed wearing it to the grocery store. 

It’s also a well-sized watch. At 40mm in diameter with a 46.2mm lug-to-lug, this watch sits super comfortably on the wrist. It’s got that Goldilocks “just right” vibe that makes it work for a ton of wrist sizes. I’d suggest it would best suit anything between 6 inches and 7.5 inches, but if you prefer oversized timepieces or even smaller vintage-inspired designs, it will still look great on other frames too. 

I will say the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 watch is a little on the thicker side than I’d normally like at 13.29mm. It’s not overly chunky but the domed sapphire crystal definitely adds some height. If you’re someone who wears super tight shirt cuffs, it might not be the easiest to slide under there. But if your cuffs aren’t painted on (or if you’re like me and mostly roll your sleeves up anyway), it’s not a big deal. Plus, that slight thickness gives it more of a sporty edge.

Price & Availability

If you’re tempted to add the Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 watch to your collection as much as me, you’ll be pleased to know it’s a non-limited edition that is currently a main-stay in the Japanese watchmaker’s Heritage collection. It retails brand new for $7,000 which although is a little more expensive than some of their other time-only Hi-Beat models, it is warranted since it uses their Ever-Brilliant steel across the entirety of the case and bracelet. 

You can also find the release on the second-hand market for around $5,000. But just make sure to purchase through an official Grand Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces. That way, you know you’re getting a genuine watch with all the official box and paperwork

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko ‘Dusk Mount Iwate’ 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH301 is a brilliant watch in so many ways. It’s a perfect all-rounder that effortlessly balances style, durability, and functionality. It’s the kind of watch you can throw on without a second thought. It’s reliable, thanks to its hi-beat movement and COSC-worthy accuracy, so you know you’re always keeping perfect time. Plus, it’s beautiful and durable, so know you’ll always look the part.

But I think my favorite thing about this release is its dual personality. It’s elegant enough to hold its own in a boardroom but laid-back enough to pair with jeans and a tee. The brushed and polished finish keeps it sharp but not over-the-top, while the Ever Brilliant Steel ensures it can handle the wear and tear of daily life without losing its luster. The balanced dimensions make it a joy to wear for just about anyone, and the dial—subtle from afar but mesmerizing up close—adds a layer of charm that keeps you hooked.

There are so many GMT watches to choose from. There are well-known models like the GMT-Master from Rolex and the Seamaster Planet Ocean from Omega, and there are some watches that are lesser known but still deserve just as much attention. 

For me, one of these collections is the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT. It’s a series of watches based upon the Japanese watchmaker’s “Grand Seiko Style” design language inspired by the original 44GS launched in 1967. 

But these aren’t old-school timepieces in any shape or form. They are brilliantly designed from a steel alloy that looks and wears better than standard stainless steel, plus they uniquely present their GMT complication on a dial that’s more complex than any other GMT watch I’ve seen. 

They’re also powered by an in-house high-frequency movement. And all this comes at a retail price of less than $8,000. Yes, that’s significantly more affordable than those by Rolex and Omega. 

But did the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT watch’s specs live up to the hype after being on the wrist for a week? I got hands-on with one to find out, specifically reference SBGJ267, a boutique edition with a beautiful navy blue dial.

A 2023 Upgrade

When it launched in 2023, the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT collection flew under the radar for a lot of collectors. 

Not because it wasn’t impressive, but merely because there were so many other incredible releases out at the time, including some by Grand Seiko themselves (I’m still not quite over the Grand Seiko Tentagraph). Plus, it was a subtle refresh to an already existing collection. But one that was needed. 

The 2023 Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT collection wasn’t about reinventing the wheel but about refining something classic. The family features five new references, each replacing an older model. 

For instance, the SBGH299 (time-and-date, silver dial) stepped in for the SBGH277, while the SBGJ263 GMT (silver dial) replaced the SBGJ201. There’s also the time-and-date SBGH301 (dark gray dial) to replace the lighter gray SBGH279 and the GMT SBGJ265 taking over the SBGJ203. 

There was also a stunning GMT boutique exclusive under reference SBGJ267. This one boasts a stunning blue dial and is the very model I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing this past week. 

The changes made, although subtle, suggested they’d make a big improvement to overall wearability. Grand Seiko tweaked the dials, cases, and bracelets to bring everything just a touch more up-to-date, keeping these watches feeling fresh while staying true to their roots. 

The dials, for example, now feature intricate textures inspired by Mt. Iwate, a breathtaking mountain near GS’s Shizukuishi Watch Studio. It’s a nod to their heritage and is truthfully a sight to behold.

But, the biggest change is the material used for the case and bracelet. Each Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT watch features the brand’s Ever Brilliant Steel. A material that’s tougher, more corrosion-resistant, and boasts a brighter, whiter finish than traditional stainless steel.

Ever Brilliant Steel vs Standard Steel

Before I get into the minute details of the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267, I want to first explain exactly what the difference is between Grand Seiko’s Ever Brilliant steel and the standard stainless steel used on most watches. Because, ultimately, it’s this material (among other things), that helps this watch stand out against its competition.

Ever Brilliant Steel isn’t just regular stainless steel, but an alloy that has a PREN (Pitting Resistance Equivalent Number) that’s 1.7 times higher than what you’ll find in the steel used for most luxury watches. Translation? It’s way better at standing up to things like rust and corrosion. While most watches are often made from 316L steel, Ever Brilliant Steel is known as 904L steel. 

Over time, normal stainless steel can start to lose its luster, especially if you’re wearing your watch in humid or salty environments. Meanwhile, Ever Brilliant Steel keeps looking fresh and shiny way longer. It’s also got this super bright, almost white finish that gives the watch an extra pop of elegance compared to the usual grayish tone of standard steel.

The Ever-Brilliant Steel Case

As I mentioned earlier, the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 draws its design inspiration from the original 44GS, a 1967 release that established the iconic “Grammar of Design”. 

This watch defined the sharp, clean aesthetic Grand Seiko is now famous for. The SBGJ267 case stays true to that legacy with a breathtaking mix of curves, angles, and flat surfaces to create a sleek, sophisticated presence on the wrist. 

Measuring 40mm in diameter and 14.4mm in height, the GMT model isn’t the slimmest, but there’s a good reason for that. The added thickness accommodates the intricate movement and GMT complication. There’s an added hand, after all, so the case needs to make room for that. Despite this, the watch doesn’t feel bulky, thanks to its well-balanced proportions and 50mm lug-to-lug length. It may struggle under a super-tight shirt cuff but will fit comfortably beneath most sleeves. 

The Ever-Brilliant Steel used for the case elevates the design even further. This proprietary alloy gives the watch an almost white, radiant finish that stands out from traditional stainless steel. It’s also highly resistant to corrosion, ensuring the case retains its pristine appearance for years. 

Then there’s the Zaratsu polishing, a hallmark of Grand Seiko craftsmanship. Achieving this flawless, mirror-like finish is no small feat since it takes artisans years to master the skill, which involves pressing the metal against a spinning tin plate. 

The result is a surface so reflective and distortion-free that you can practically use it as a mirror. While most of the cases are Zaratsu polished, carefully placed brushed sections add subtle contrast and emphasis to the angular architecture. 

The case of the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 also includes a screw-down crown at 3 o’clock, knurled and embossed with the GS logo, giving the watch a 100-meter water resistance. This allows the release to straddle the line between a dress watch and a sports watch. It could easily be worn as both. 

The double-domed sapphire crystal on top adds a vintage touch that nods to the 1960s 44GS while showcasing the dial beautifully. It features added anti-reflective coating for improved legibility and scratch resistance. 

Flip the Grand Seiko watch over, and you’ll find a screw-down case back with a sapphire window and a finely detailed beaded edge, drawing attention to the stunning movement inside.

The Intricate Navy Dial 

While I am undoubtedly impressed by the case of the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 watch, I could also stare at its dial for a lifetime. 

I’ve said it so many times at this point, but Grand Seiko are truly the masters of dial design. They are never short of inspiration from their home country, bringing to life their Japanese heritage through intricate and masterful textures and colors. 

For the SBGJ267, Grand Seiko uses their iconic Mt. Iwate pattern, inspired by the ridged surfaces of the mountain visible from their Shizukuishi Studio, where all their mechanical watches are born. 

The pattern is super fine and subtle, scattering out from the center in a sunburst effect. But it’s not just any ordinary sunburst dial, it’s more like the scatter of snow or rain. Its super fine, super detailed and super pretty. For me, Grand Seiko dials will always be better than Rolexes for this reason. 

This intricate texture also plays a huge part in the color of the dial. It mostly appears as a rich navy, but catch it in the right light, and it can shift to a lighter hue or even a deep, almost-black shade. It’s endlessly fascinating. 

The layout is a little different for Grand Seiko, too. Instead of the 24-hour GMT scale being on the dial’s inner section, it’s placed neatly on the rehaut, keeping the main dial clean and minimal. The rest of the hardware is classic Grand Seiko. There are razor-sharp dauphine-style hour and minute hands, brushed on top and polished along the edges. 

The hand-applied indices are equally stunning, faceted like tiny gemstones with a mix of brushed and polished finishes that catch the light beautifully. Like the case, all the hardware is hand-finished and made using diamond-tipped milling tools to create this exceptional shine and gleam.

Adding to the mix is the rose gold GMT hand, which pops against the blue dial while staying elegant and legible. At 3 o’clock, there’s a polished-framed date window with a crisp black-on-white date wheel. The rest of the dial keeps things balanced, with the Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock and movement info at 6 o’clock.

The Hi-Beat GMT Movement

The beating heart of the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 is the in-house Caliber 9S86. The movement is yet another highlight of this release, known as a high-frequency automatic winding caliber that beats at 5Hz or 36,000 vibrations per hour.

This means it has super high levels of accuracy and a buttery-smooth motion for the second hand. The movement also boasts a 55-hour power reserve and an accuracy rated at -3 to +5 seconds per day, a rating that beats even COSC certification. 

The Caliber 9S86 is also a traveler’s GMT movement, a complication that’s perfect for those who like to hop between timezones. 

Unlike “office” GMT watches, where the 24-hour hand is independently adjustable, the local hour hand here can be adjusted in one-hour increments—both forwards and backward—while the minute and GMT hands remain unaffected. 

This is a game-changer for frequent flyers since you just pop the crown into its second position, move the hour hand, and you’re set without messing up the minutes or the additional time zone displayed by the 24-hour hand. 

The movement is also beautiful to look at, visible through the watch’s sapphire case back. As with everything, Grand Seiko spares no effort in its finishing, with 37 jewels nestled into a movement adorned with intricate striping and polishing.

The Ever-Brilliant Bracelet

The bracelet on the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 is also beautiful, but it is the only part of the watch I have some criticism of. It’s crafted from the same Ever Brilliant Steel as the case, so it matches perfectly in both durability and shine. 

It also has a wonderful architecture featuring staggered links in alignment, size, and finish to create this amazing light play as it catches the light from every angle. The polished edges and rolled, beveled link edges give it a refined look, while the inner flanks of the links are polished. The rest of the bracelet is brushed. It’s a fantastic combination of sharp and smooth, elegant and rugged.

The clasp is a twin-trigger release, so it’s secure and doesn’t just pop open easily, which is a nice touch for peace of mind. The Grand Seiko logo is embossed on the outside in relief, adding a subtle but classy touch. 

There are half links at both ends, so you can get pretty close to perfect fit. Plus, the bracelet has screw links for easy adjustments, which is a relief for anyone who has had to deal with pin links before.

However, here’s the downside: there’s no micro-adjustment on the clasp. It’s a bit of a miss since micro-adjustment is such an important feature on metal bracelets. It would make fine-tuning the fit a lot easier, especially on warm days when your wrist might swell a bit. I do wish Grand Seiko would take the time to refine their metal bracelets this way, but that said, it’s not a deal-breaker for me. But it’s something to keep in mind if you’re a stickler for precision.

On the upside, the 19mm lug width, despite being a bit of an odd size, makes finding alternate straps possible, and you’ve got drilled lugs to make swapping them out easy. Plus, if this watch sounds a little large in its dimensions for you, I reckon placing it on a leather or textile strap would make it a lot more wearable.

On-Wrist Experience

The Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 wears beautifully on the wrist thanks to its well-proportioned 40mm diameter and lug-to-lug measurement of 50mm. It feels comfortable and secure, fitting a wide range of wrist sizes, from 6 inches to 7.5 inches. At 159 grams, it’s not too heavy, but there’s definitely some presence to it. It’s just the right amount of weight to feel substantial without being overly bulky.

The slightly thicker case might be a drawback for some, but part of this is put down to the domed sapphire crystal. It does mean it’s not ideal for sliding under formal shirt cuffs, so it would suit sportier wear better. 

Although, to be honest, I would still wear this for dressier occasions. I’d just make sure my shirt cuffs weren’t too tight. Simply put, the Grand Seiko SBGJ267 feels as beautiful as it looks.

Price & Availability

If you’re interested in purchasing the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 watch, there are a few things to keep in mind. 

For starters, this is a boutique-only edition, which means it’s only available at select Grand Seiko stores and authorized Grand Seiko retailers around the world. Thankfully, Exquisite Timepieces is one of the same. 

Brand new, the Grand Seiko SBGJ267 retails for $7,500, which is honestly really impressive for a GMT watch made from a luxury metal with a hand-crafted case and dial, full metal bracelet and an in-house high-frequency movement. 

I’m pretty sure there are no other GMT watches finished to this standard with this level of technology for a price even close to this. You might be able to find the model on the second-hand market, too, if you’re working with a smaller budget. A quick look online, and I saw a few pre-owned references for around $6,000.

Conclusion

In my opinion, the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 watch is one of the best GMT watches on the market, especially when you consider its price. There’s a level of precision, craftsmanship, and attention to detail here that’s hard to beat. 

It ticks every box for a fantastic GMT: precision, functionality, a healthy 55-hour power reserve, and a durable yet stunning case made from Ever-Brilliant Steel. If you asked me to choose between this and the Rolex GMT-Master, I’d pick the Grand Seiko every time.

Yes, the bracelet could be improved with some micro adjustment, but I’ll be honest: I’m too distracted by how incredible the dial looks even to notice. The Mt. Iwate pattern is nothing short of mesmerizing and I do have hope they’ll release this watch, or at least something similar, in some more non-traditional dial colors soon to spice things up further.

There’s a unique tranquility in being immersed in nature, surrounded by untouched landscapes brimming with life and beauty beyond human artistry. Occasionally, however, this natural splendor isn’t merely replicated but artfully represented—whether on a canvas or, in this case, on the dial of a watch. 

Grand Seiko’s designers have mastered the art of crafting some of the most stunningly detailed dials in the watch industry. 

Drawing inspiration from Japan’s natural beauty and rich cultural heritage, they capture the essence of lush forests, snowy mountains, serene rivers, and the changing seasons. These timeless dials reflect the breathtaking landscapes they witness throughout the year.

Our spotlight today is on the elegant Grand Seiko SBGJ263, a stunning homage to Mt. Iwate, the iconic mountain visible from the Grand Seiko studio in Shizukuishi. 

This GMT traveler’s watch exudes unique style and functionality, crafted from Ever-Brilliant steel for exceptional durability. Much like the mountain it honors, photographs cannot capture its full beauty—the SBGJ263 is a masterpiece best appreciated in person.

History

Grand Seiko has introduced numerous models featuring a variety of dial colors, but the “Mt. Iwate” pattern has captivated enthusiasts since its debut in 2006. With its intricate design and diverse colorways, this dial has built a devoted following. 

From the original white version to limited green editions exclusive to the Asian market, the Mt. Iwate dial has cemented itself as a cornerstone of the Grand Seiko collection.

The SBGJ263, introduced in 2023, succeeded the SBGH001 in 2019 as part of a broader Heritage Collection revamp. This model offers a modern interpretation of the iconic 44GS design, replacing four earlier models to refine and elevate the lineup. 

The 44GS case itself holds a significant place in Grand Seiko’s history, serving as a direct homage to one of the brand’s earliest and most celebrated case designs.

While the dial and case embody Grand Seiko’s philosophy and timeless elegance, the SBGJ263 “Mt. Iwate” exemplifies the brand’s ability to honor its heritage while evolving to create the ideal modern wristwatch. 

Case

As I previously mentioned, the SBGJ263 features the iconic 44GS case, a cornerstone of Grand Seiko’s design philosophy. Introduced in 1967, this case was crafted to reflect Japanese culture through its sharp edges, curved profile, and meticulous craftsmanship. 

With a screw-down crown and a flawlessly polished finish, Grand Seiko aimed to create more than just a watch—they sought to establish a philosophy where every timepiece would “sparkle with quality.”

The SBGJ263 boasts a 40mm case diameter, a 42.5mm lug-to-lug distance, and a 19mm lug width. Its 14mm thickness, attributed mainly to the dual-curved sapphire crystal protecting the dial, adds to its robust construction. Despite this thickness, the 44GS case design ensures a comfortable fit on the wrist, striking a balance between presence and wearability.

While the SBGJ263 shares its size and many other features with its predecessor, what sets it apart is the use of Grand Seiko’s Ever-Brilliant steel. This exceptional alloy is significantly more resistant to corrosion than regular stainless steel and boasts a stunning finish. 

Unlike anything seen in most other brands—even within Grand Seiko’s lineup—Ever-Brilliant steel exhibits a distinctive white hue. This unique tone is further enhanced by the famous Zaratsu polishing, giving the watch an unparalleled shine and presence.

The combination of the vintage-inspired 44GS case design and Ever-Brilliant steel makes the SBGJ263 one of the most captivating recent releases from Grand Seiko, in my opinion. 

With its see-through case back and 100 meters of water resistance, this timepiece is an excellent addition to any wardrobe. Whether dressed up or casual, this stunner offers remarkable versatility and timeless appeal.

Dial

A beautiful case is elevated in status and elegance when complemented by an equally stunning dial. Grand Seiko has built a reputation for creating delicately textured dials that pay homage to Japanese nature and culture, and the SBGJ263 “Mt. Iwate” is no different. 

The Grand Seiko Studio in Shizukuishi is surrounded by natural wonders that define Japan’s renowned beauty. The artisans at Grand Seiko pay homage to their homeland by reflecting its breathtaking landscapes in their meticulously crafted dials. 

With the SBGJ263, they chose to reimagine their iconic Mt. Iwate dial, a tribute to the majestic volcanic mountain that overlooks the Shizukuishi studio.

The SBGJ263 “Mt. Iwate” features a stunning white sunburst dial adorned with intricate textured lines radiating toward the center, reminiscent of the ridges of its namesake mountain. 

White dials are always captivating under shifting light, but this Mt. Iwate design takes it a step further. As the angle changes, the dial adopts a silvery tone, adding a dynamic and eye-catching dimension to its appearance. 

As a GMT, the SBGJ263 offers the ability to track a second time zone—an essential feature for frequent travelers. What sets this timepiece apart is its unique approach to presenting the 24-hour markers. 

Instead of placing them on an external bezel or painting them directly onto the dial, the inner rehaut serves as the second time zone tracker. With even numbers and markers for the odd hours, this design avoids cluttering the dial, adding a layer of sophistication and seamlessly integrating functionality into the watch’s aesthetic.

The sleek silver hour markers seamlessly complement the polished finish of the dauphine hands, creating a cohesive and refined design. 

The white dial, paired with polished baton indices, exudes an elegant brilliance that brings the watch to life, balancing timeless sophistication with contemporary charm. Adding a touch of vibrancy, the stunning blue GMT hand introduces just the right pop of color to complete the dial’s captivating aesthetic.

A date window, framed in silver, is positioned at the 3 o’clock marker, blending seamlessly with the dial’s design. The Grand Seiko logo, rendered in silver, sits prominently under the 12 o’clock position, accompanied by the brand name in black. 

Just above the 6 o’clock marker, the watch’s specifications are subtly displayed, noting that the SBGJ263 is an automatic GMT powered by the Hi-Beat movement. Adding a detail, the “GMT” lettering mirrors the blue hue of the GMT hand, enhancing the dial’s overall cohesive aesthetic.

Movement

Powering this timepiece is the Grand Seiko in-house Caliber 9S86, a movement that exemplifies the brand’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking. Featuring the Hi-Beat 36000 vibrations per hour and a GMT time correction function, it delivers both precision and functionality, making the SBGJ263 a testament to Grand Seiko’s technical mastery. 

The Hi-Beat 36000 is a remarkable technological breakthrough, representing decades of dedication and innovation. It took Grand Seiko nearly forty years to develop, test, and perfect this movement, solidifying its place as a pinnacle of horological achievement. 

The original Hi-Beat 36000, the Caliber 9S85, was recognized for its accurate precision and lack of staggered movements when rolling around the dial. 

While most standard mechanical watches operate at an average of 25,000 vibrations per hour, the 9S85 movement was engineered to perform at an impressive 36,000 oscillations per hour, giving rise to its “Hi-Beat 36000” moniker. This advanced mechanism provides exceptional accuracy, rated at +5 to -3 seconds per day, and boasts a robust power reserve of 55 hours. 

The standout upgrade in the Caliber 9S86 is its integrated GMT function, allowing you to track a second time zone with ease—a perfect feature for frequent travelers. 

By pulling the crown out one notch, you can adjust the hour hand independently without stopping the seconds hand, ensuring the Hi-Beat mechanism continues uninterrupted. This design not only preserves the movement’s precision but also adds convenience and efficiency for on-the-go adjustments.

Straps

The SBGJ263 is paired with a stunning Ever-Brilliant steel bracelet, showcasing the classic three-link design polished to perfection with Zaratsu finishing. For a tailored fit, the bracelet includes screwed half-links, though it lacks a micro-adjustment feature. 

Securing the bracelet is a sleek three-fold clasp, elegantly engraved with the GS logo, adding a touch of refinement to this already exceptional timepiece.

With its 19mm lug width, the SBGJ263 may not offer an extensive range of options for swapping out bracelets, but it shines on the right strap. 

If you find a suitable replacement, leather straps are an excellent choice. Whether you opt for classic black or a lighter shade of brown, the SBGJ263 stands out equally on leather as it does on its metal bracelet, offering versatility and elegance in every setting.

On-Wrist Experience

Whenever I get the opportunity to test a Grand Seiko, it inevitably becomes the centerpiece of my life during that time. It’s never just a watch—each model carries its own story and unique character. The SBGJ263 is no exception. 

Though I’ve worn 44GS-style cases before, with their snug fit thanks to sharp angles and curved edges, this model felt refreshingly new. Stepping outside into the sunlight, the Ever-Brilliant steel transforms the watch into a radiant masterpiece, gleaming in a way that sets it apart from anything I’ve worn before.

I had the pleasure of wearing the SBGJ263 daily at work and even to two weddings, and each time, this snow-white beauty became a conversation starter. 

While experimenting with different straps, my appreciation for this timepiece only grew. Its versatility is undeniable, though its thickness does make pairing it with tighter cuffs a bit challenging.

That said, the SBGJ263 is both comfortable and stylish, making it ideal for daily wear. Its versatility ensures it pairs well with various occasions, from casual to formal. The inner rehaut, serving as the GMT indicator, is a standout feature of this timepiece. 

Unlike most GMT watches with a rotating bezel, this minimalist design approach offers a refreshing take. While I do appreciate a classic rotating bezel, I found myself thoroughly enjoying the clean and sophisticated aesthetic the rehaut provides. 

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko SBGJ263 “Mt. Iwate” is available at a retail price of $7,500. Pre-owned options often range around $4,000, offering a more budget-friendly alternative. For those interested, this remarkable timepiece is currently available through Exquisite Timepieces.

Conclusion

If you’re in the market for a stunning GMT with a beautifully detailed dial, the SBGJ263 is an exceptional choice. This timepiece offers versatility, comfort, and durability thanks to its robust materials and reliable in-house movement. 

Like every watch in Grand Seiko’s Heritage Collection, the SBGJ263 is a tribute to the brand’s rich history, showcasing its commitment to crafting timeless pieces that genuinely shine with quality.

This time last year, Grand Seiko decided to end the year with a bang by launching their last watch of 2023. It was a design many people had been waiting for and was suitably named the Grand Seiko Elegance Manual Winding SBGW305. 

It’s a watch you could easily fall in love with for a number of reasons. It boasted a compact set of dimensions to suit pretty much any wrist size, an in-house manual winding movement, and a wonderful heritage-inspired aesthetic that tempted all of us with a love of vintage watches. 

But why were collectors so excited for this model? To understand this, we first need to go back a couple more years to the release of another Grand Seiko watch, one found under reference SBGW235.

The Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305’s Predecessor

The Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 owes much of its popularity to its predecessor, the SBGW235, which debuted in 2021. The SBGW235 was a stunner, and if you’ve ever ogled photos of it online (like I have countless times), you’ll know exactly what I mean. 

It has this perfectly rounded, compact case that sits well on most wrists, paired with a clean, heritage-inspired dial that oozes class. It also has a manual-winding movement for a proper throwback to the golden era of watchmaking. 

But for many, myself included, the pièce de résistance of the Grand Seiko SBGW235 is the beads of rice bracelet. Grand Seiko isn’t exactly known for their metal bracelets. They’re incredible at pretty much everything except bracelets. 

But this vintage-inspired band can’t be included in this opinion. According to many who have had hands-on time with this metal band, it’s one of the best beads of rice bracelets on the market. 

So what’s the catch? Unfortunately, the Grand Seiko SBGW235 was only available in Japan. Yep, it was one of those “look but don’t touch” situations for us collectors outside of the country. I’ve heard glowing reviews from my watch friends overseas, but I’ve never actually seen it in person. 

Fast forward to December 2023, and along came the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305, which felt like the Japanese watchmaker’s attempt at throwing us international fans a bone. It’s not a one-to-one replica of the SBGW235, but the design is clearly inspired by it. 

This time, it features a crisp silver dial instead of the creamy tone of its predecessor. It also elects silver-toned hardware on the dial rather than a blued seconds hand. 

But we still have the same minimalist dial layout, the absence of a date window (thank you, Grand Seiko!), the compact dimensions, and—most importantly—the same glorious beads of rice bracelet. And unlike the SBGW235, the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 isn’t exclusive to Japan.

A Case Worthy of the 1960’s

If you like vintage-inspired design, then you’ll no doubt love the case of the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 watch. The biggest draw for me, and I’m sure for many of you who have relatively small wrists (or just like vintage proportions), will be the set of dimensions.

At 37.3mm in diameter, it’s compact and wonderfully wearable, hitting that perfect sweet spot for pretty much any wrist size. The lug-to-lug is 44.3mm, and the thickness is a mere 11.7mm, making it one of the easiest Grand Seiko watches to slide under a cuff. It’s small but mighty, full of retro charm, and completely timeless.

Now, let’s talk details. The stainless steel case is a nod to the original Grand Seiko from 1960, and you can feel the heritage in every curve. It’s got a classic fixed bezel that sits flush with the case but below the domed crystal that rises above it for that retro vibe. 

The crystal in use is box-style sapphire with an anti-reflective coating on the inside, so you get a crystal-clear view without any annoying reflections. 

Another beautiful addition to the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305’s case is the Zaratsu polishing. If you’re not familiar with Zaratsu, it is Grand Seiko’s signature mirror-like polishing technique, and it’s flawless. The entire case gleams like liquid metal, reflecting light in the most mesmerizing way. 

It’s not an easy finish to achieve either, with artisans having to train for over three years before being trusted to hold the precious stainless steel against a spinning tin plate to give it its unbeatable shine. 

The crown is push-pull, which is pretty standard for a dress watch, and it offers 30 meters of water resistance. It’s definitely not a watch you’ll want to risk near open water, but let’s be real, you probably shouldn’t be shopping in the dress watch department if you’re wanting something to take in the ocean. 

The crown is slightly oversized, and while I’m sure some might think it’s a bit bulky, I love it. It adds to the vintage aesthetic and reminds me a lot of an onion crown, except without the onion shape. And, of course, the crown is signed with the GS logo in relief for a nice finishing touch.

Turn the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 watch around, and you’ve got an exhibition case back secured by six screws. The sapphire crystal lets you peek at the manual-winding movement inside (more on that later), and there’s a delicate beaded border around the glass to draw your attention inward. It’s a small detail, but it really adds to the overall elegance of the watch.

A Clean, Date-less Dial

For the dial, the Grand Seiko Elegance Manual Winding SBGW305 watch continues its tradition of clean, refined watchmaking. And you might not agree with me, but it’s seriously all the better for having no date. 

I can’t overstate how much I love a no-date dial, especially on a dress watch like this. There’s just something so satisfying about the simplicity and symmetry it brings. No date, no clutter, just pure elegance.

The dial itself has a beautiful silver sunray finish that keeps things classic and versatile. It’s subtle enough to stay under the radar but has just enough shimmer to catch the light and add depth. There are no intricate patterns or distractions here, just a clean, timeless surface that’s all about understated sophistication. It feels like the perfect blank canvas for the polished hardware to shine.

Speaking of the hardware, the indices are hand-applied and fully polished, reflecting light like tiny mirrors. Each cardinal hour marker gets a double index for extra clarity, which adds a practical touch without disrupting the design’s flow. The hands are sharp and angular, crafted with the same meticulous attention to detail. 

The minute and second hands are even slightly bent by hand to follow the subtle curve of the dial. It’s a detail that’s easy to miss but impossible not to appreciate once you notice it. There’s no blued second hand here like the SBGW235. Instead, everything sticks to a sleek monochromatic silver and steel theme, which gives the watch a harmonious, cohesive look.

The only other feature to note is the Grand Seiko logo positioned at 12 o’clock. You might have noticed that the font for this is a little different from some of the Japanese watch manufacturer’s other models. It’s a replica of their 1960s emblem, working as the perfect signpost to the inspiration behind this model.

A Manual Winding Movement

A watch like the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 could only be powered by a manual-winding movement. It’s a 1960s-inspired timepiece, after all. 

I’ve always had a soft spot for manual winding watches; there’s just something so satisfying about winding your watch each morning feeling that connection to the craftsmanship on your wrist. Manual winding is not just a feature here but part of the experience.

The movement in question is the Grand Seiko Caliber 9S64, a hand-wound movement introduced in 2011. It offers a 72-hour power reserve so it’s perfect for wearing as a formal work watch. 

For example, if you wear it during the workweek and take it off on Friday night, it’ll still be ticking when Monday morning rolls around. The movement also operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, which gives it that buttery-smooth sweep of the second hand that’s a joy to watch.

Since it’s made entirely in-house by Grand Seiko, the Caliber 9S64 is packed with all the high-tech features known to the Japanese watchmaker. For example, it uses the brand’s proprietary alloy called Spron510 for the mainspring, which is thinner and longer than usual, allowing for that impressive three-day power reserve. 

Meanwhile, the balance spring is made from Spron610, another proprietary alloy that’s highly shock-resistant and anti-magnetic, ensuring durability and reliability.

Grand Seiko’s commitment to precision is also on full display here. The movement is tested in six different positions and at three different temperatures over 17 days to achieve an accuracy rating of +5 to -3 seconds per day. That’s a rating better than the COSC standard.

And let’s not forget the finishing. Through the exhibition case back, the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 watch lets you admire the striped bridges, polished screws, and the visible jewels, which are positioned in a way that makes them sparkle when the light hits just right. 

It’s not as elaborately decorated as some haute horology movements, but the clean and purposeful aesthetic fits Grand Seiko’s design philosophy perfectly.

The Beads of Rice Bracelet

As you could probably tell from the introduction, the feature I was most excited to see in person on the Grand Seiko Elegance Manual Wind SBGW305 watch was the beads of rice bracelet. It’s a strap that’s the perfect match for a vintage-inspired dress watch. 

It’s a stainless steel five-link bracelet with a “beads of rice” design, something of a rarity on Grand Seiko dress pieces and one of the reasons this watch stands out.

 If you’re not familiar with the beads of rice style, it’s a bracelet that gets its name from the small, rounded center links that resemble tiny grains of rice arranged in neat rows. These links are flanked by polished outer links, giving the bracelet a timeless, elegant look. 

What I love most about the beads of rice bracelet is how it wears. The tiny, closely spaced links allow the bracelet to drape and conform to your wrist almost like fabric. It’s incredibly comfortable and there’s no pinching or stiffness, just a silky-smooth feel. 

This level of flexibility makes it an absolute joy to wear, especially if you’re someone who values comfort as much as style.

The bracelet is 19mm wide at the lugs and tapers down to 17mm at the clasp, adding to the overall sleekness of the watch. The clasp itself is a dual push-button release, which is easy to use and feels secure. 

Now, here’s the downside: there’s no micro-adjustment on the clasp, and the bracelet doesn’t come with any half links. This means getting the perfect fit can be a bit of a challenge. I won’t sugarcoat it, if you’re particular about how snug your bracelet fits, this might be a sticking point.

One thoughtful feature is the drilled lugs, which makes swapping out the bracelet for a strap super easy. However, the 19mm lug width is a bit uncommon, so finding aftermarket straps might take some effort. Still, the versatility of the bracelet means you might not even want to take it off. 

It complements the watch’s design so well, from the polished Zaratsu case to the clean, silver dial, that it feels like they were made for each other. In short, while the bracelet isn’t perfect in terms of adjustability, it more than makes up for it in looks and comfort. It’s a stunning addition to an already beautiful watch.

On-Wrist Experience

I was fortunate enough to get hands-on with the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 watch for a whole week, and I truly mean this: I only took it off when I needed to be around water. It was an absolute dream to wear. 

It felt made for my 5.5-inch wrist, which isn’t something I say often when I review watches. My wrists often struggle with larger watches, but this one fits like a glove.

The compact 37.3mm case, short lug-to-lug of 44.3mm, and the slim 11.7mm thickness makes it perfectly proportioned for smaller-than-average wrists. It hugs the wrist without feeling bulky, and the beads of rice bracelet adds an extra layer of comfort, draping naturally and flexibly around the skin. 

It would easily suit wrists up to 7.5 inches in my opinion, but anything over that and it may start to feel a little small for your frame. That said, don’t let me put you off, especially if you love a small vintage-inspired timepiece.

At just 108 grams, the Grand Seiko Elegance Manual Wind SBGW305 watch has a reassuring heft without being overwhelming. It feels substantial but not heavy, striking that perfect balance that lets you forget it’s even there until you catch a glimpse of it peeking out from under your sleeve. 

The slim profile means it slides effortlessly under any dress cuff, too, so it’s ideal for formal occasions or as an “at-the-office watch”. While it’s marketed as a men’s dress watch, the size and design are easily unisex.

Price & Availability

Although the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 is a “simple” watch in many ways, keeping things clean and minimalistic, it packs a punch in terms of its attention to detail and technology. It’s why when I found out its retail price, I was shocked – in the best way. It retails brand new for only $5,700. 

There aren’t many watches as physically beautiful and technologically impressive as this at this price. Plus, if you’re lucky, you might be able to find it cheaper on the second-hand market. I found a couple of examples retailing for around $4,000.

The Grand Seiko SBGW305 is currently a permanent addition to the brand’s Elegance collection, so it’s not limited to a specific set of numbers. It can be ordered indefinitely as long as the stock lasts. 

Just be sure to order yours from an authorized Grand Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces to ensure you receive a genuine watch with all the official paperwork and warranty.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 watch might be one of the most beautiful Grand Seiko watches I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing. It’s a timepiece that feels tailor-made for smaller wrists thanks to its compact dimensions, and equally as perfect for anyone who appreciates a clean, refined, vintage-inspired timepiece.

The beads of rice bracelet is as stunning as I’d hoped, draping comfortably around the wrist and adding to the watch’s retro charm. While I do wish it had some micro-adjustment for an easier fit, it’s a minor gripe that doesn’t detract from the overall experience. The dimensions are spot-on, the manual-winding movement is a joy to interact with, and the simplicity of the dial is pure perfection.

I know this is a watch many Grand Seiko collectors have been waiting for, and I can confidently say it was worth the wait. If you’ve been considering adding this beauty to your collection, I promise you won’t be disappointed.

Over time, the way people dress has gotten more casual. You don’t see men wearing suits every day or even to most jobs. With casual clothes come casual watches. Tool watches such as divers and chronographs fill the collections of many watch lovers.

However, you may need to dress it up every once in a while. You could be invited to a wedding, a job interview, or another event where you need more formal attire. In these situations, you’ll need a watch to match the level of formality. Not that you can’t wear a diver with a suit, but a dress watch will elevate your appearance.

If, like most guys, you have one suit, you should have one dress watch to go with it. You want it to be elegant, accurate, and reliable, and a brand that checks all those boxes is Grand Seiko.

For more than 140 years, the prestigious Japanese watchmaker has been creating timepieces that rival anything coming out of Switzerland. If you are looking for a classic dress watch to complete your best outfits, look no further than the Grand Seiko SBGW301 Elegance Manual. Let’s take a good look at this stunning timepiece.

History

Grand Seiko has produced many mechanical dress watches over the years and continues to update them. The models in the Elegance Collection are among the finest. 

In 2017, the brand released the stunning hand-wound SBGW231, which was a hit with many watch lovers. The simple three-hand, cream-colored dial was appreciated for its simplicity and beauty. It was essentially a newer version of 2001’s SBGW001, which was, in turn, inspired by the original Grand Seiko released in 1960.

More recently, Grand Seiko created an updated version of the 231, the SBGW301. Released in January of 2024, the 301 also has a manual mechanical movement free from complications. With a few slight changes, the newer model is proving to be every bit the classic its older sibling is. 

Case

The 316L stainless steel case is 37.3 mm in diameter, a perfect size for a dress watch. Small enough to be elegant but big enough to suit small to average-size wrists. With a 43.3 mm lug-to-lug and a thickness of 11.7 mm, it will easily slide under a shirt cuff and maintain a low profile, as any good dress watch should. 

The surfaces of the case are brushed and polished using Grand Seiko’s trademark Zaratsu process. This gives it depth, and its sleek lines combined with the gentle curves of the lugs make for a truly beautiful case.

The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal is double-dome, which makes up a significant part of the watch’s thickness. A sapphire is also used for the exhibition case back. It’s nice for fans of fine horology to be able to take a peek at the movement, especially with a brand that puts this much into the design. 

As you would expect, the crown is a simple push-pull and is only needed for winding and setting the time. The water resistance is only 30 m, which is perfectly acceptable for a dress watch. The crown is large, which makes the case seem a bit bulky. But that does make it easy to grip when winding.

Dial

When it comes to watch style, it’s all about the dial. It’s where you look to see the time and draws more attention than any other part of a watch. Grand Seiko excels at pretty much every aspect of watchmaking but it’s their dials that really steal the show.

The dial on the SBGW301 doesn’t have a texture like so many Grand Seiko models. But the smooth finish fits perfectly with its dress watch elegance. The color is a beautiful ivory. White is a suitable color for a dress watch, but it can seem stark and antiseptic. The dial of the 301 is subtle but carries just enough color to give it added interest.

The indices are precision-cut, brushed, and polished stainless batons with double batons at three, six, nine, and 12 o’clock. The hands are also stainless with brushed and polished surfaces. The minute and hour hands taper, and the second hand is a needle. They stand out nicely against the dial, making the watch easy to read but not flashy.

Simple black ticks around the outer edge of the dial form the minute track. Applied at 12 o’clock in stainless steel is the Grand Seiko logo with the name in black underneath. There is no other text on the dial, maintaining the minimalist look. It’s classic Grand Seiko, and the lack of a date complication only adds to the dressy elegance of the dial and the entire watch. 

Movement

The watch is powered by Grand Seiko’s in-house Caliber 9S64 mechanical manual movement. With 24 jewels, it operates at 4Hz and with adjustments at six different points, has an accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds per day. Better than COSC so you won’t have to reset it too often. Although not an automatic movement, the 72-hour power reserve means you won’t have to wind it every day. With a timepiece this nice, you will likely enjoy the winding experience. If you wear it to work, you can put it down over the weekend and it will still be ticking Monday morning. 

It’s an attractive design too. Thanks to the exhibition case back, you can view the brushed and polished stripe pattern and the engraved Grand Seiko logo and name in black. The movement specs are engraved in shiny gold and you can watch the balance wheel do its work.

Straps

The strap of a watch should do more than just hold it on your wrist. Ideally, it complements and enhances the style and character of the timepiece it’s attached to. The SBGW301 has a strap that pairs perfectly with the case.

A deep black crocodile leather strap contrasts the stainless case and also looks great with the ivory dial. The leather is soft, flexible, and very comfortable. It is attached with a pin buckle adorned with a vintage Grand Seiko logo, a tribute to the brand’s heritage that adds to the style of the watch.

The lugs are drilled, making switching out the strap easy. The lug width is on the small side at 19 mm, and it may be tough to find straps in that size. Honestly, you can’t top what Grand Seiko did here and probably won’t want to change the strap anyway.

On-Wrist Experience

Let’s talk about how the SBGW301 looks and feels. My frame of reference is my average-sized 7.25-inch wrist. I prefer watches in the 40-42 mm range. As a high-end dress watch, the small case of the 301 looks good on my wrist. Given that I would only wear it when dressed up, I think I like the smaller case better than my typical size watch. 

If your wrist is small to average size, you are not likely to have a problem with the 301. People with bigger wrists approaching eight inches will probably find it too small, dress watch status notwithstanding.

As for comfort, it feels very nice. It’s not a heavy watch at all and the crocodile strap is soft and supple. If you have it adjusted properly, you may not even be aware that the watch is held on with a strap. It will easily slide under a shirt cuff, tucked away neatly until you need it.

The color scheme is perfectly neutral. I like it better than plain white. Ivory adds interest, but will go with another color you may wish to wear. Hot, warm, cool, earth tones, you name it, you can wear it with the SBGW301.

You don’t have to be in a tux but you will want to be dressed fairly well when you wear it. It will work with a suit, blazer, or sport jacket, with or without a tie. I wouldn’t wear it with something as casual as a polo shirt though. A nice long-sleeve button-up is the way to go.

Price & Availability

The price may surprise you. The SBGW301 retails for $4,900. This is quite a bargain, considering it is just as nice, reliable, and accurate as many watches that cost two, three, or four times as much. You get a lot for your money from Grand Seiko.

You can pick up a brand-new model from a Grand Seiko boutique or their website. These beauties are also available from a Grand Seiko authorized dealer, such as Exquisite Timepieces. If you’re in the neighborhood, stop by our Naples, FL, boutique to try one on.

You can also order one from our website. We offer free domestic shipping, and as an AD, you will receive Grand Seiko’s five-year warranty. Whether you visit in person or online, our knowledgeable and friendly sales staff will be happy to assist you.

Should you decide to take a look at the preowned market, you won’t have any trouble finding a 301 for between $3,500 and $4,500.

Conclusion

Casual is nice. Casual is comfortable. But sometimes, ya gotta dress up a bit. Having the right watch is the finishing touch to a stylish and elegant outfit. Grand Seiko does dress watches well, and with its neutral colorway, small case, elegant, vintage lines, accuracy, and Grand Seiko reliability, you owe it to yourself to take a look at the SBGW301.