Category: News

If you consider yourself a fan of Grand Seiko watches, there is no disputing that you’ll have admired the tapestry of design elements, techniques, and traditional processes that the watchmakers of this company endure to create such spectacular creations. 

But have you ever really, I mean really, taken the time to immerse yourself in Grand Seiko’s philosophy – the spirit of Takumi? It’s where the seeds are sown for every innovation, including the SBGK017. The beating hearts (the movements) of these timepieces, created under the Takumi practice, are all inspired by the Nature of Time and, as the namesake suggests, take cues from nature around us.

The History of the SBGK017

Grand Seiko released the SBGK017 in 2022 as part of its Elegance Collection. It takes inspiration from Nanbu Tekki ironware. This traditional style of metalwork originated from the Iwate District during Japan’s Edo period. 

The watch belongs to a series renowned for its ornate dials and elevating Zaratsu polishing technique. In this article, we’re going to delve into the finer details of the SBGK017. First, let’s look at how this classic dress watch came to be.  

Grand Seiko’s penchant for creating highly sophisticated, technical, and beautiful timepieces originates from Japan’s unwavering obsession to compete with Western watchmakers. It was this innate drive that Grand Seiko owes its success to. 

Japan had been working towards becoming more independent, undergoing rapid industrialization following the Meiji Restoration of 1868. Its approach to watchmaking was gradual and subtle up until World War II. Before then, the Swiss held a 50% share of the global watch market and were supplying almost 70% of watch components to Japan.

Swiss dominance continued throughout the Second World War, while many other countries focused on war efforts. After the war, Japan focussed on researching Swiss watchmaking techniques and exploring the tools, methods, and machinery the country used in the art and practice of quintessential Haute Horlogerie. 

During this time, the founder of Seiko, Kintaro Hattori, opened two factories that would compete internally with one another. One produced the King Seiko model. The other manufactured the Grand Seiko.

This inter-brand rivalry would eventually culminate in both companies achieving the gold standard in most chronometer trials rolled out across Switzerland. Seiko became a serious contender in manufacturing accurate, technically sophisticated, yet classical-looking watches, producing innovations on par with the Swiss. The company’s quartz technology arrived during the 1960s, revolutionizing the future of watchmaking.

Catastrophically, the Swiss Market dropped in shares from 40% to 10% by the 1980s, while Japanese brands, including Casio and Citizen, soared to success. 

The market for affordable digital wristwatches had exploded, with LEDs that gave way to LCD technology, promising longer battery life than ever before. However, the Japanese market stagnated in the 1990s due to the rise of Chinese production. To diversify its higher-end offerings, Grand Seiko re-launched itself in the late 2000s.

In 2017, it would become a fully independent sub-brand. Its focus remained to create the “ideal watch” – a symbol of refinement and technical elegance. This came just a year after the brand launched its first black ceramic watch and the 8-day power reserve Spring Drive movement. The Grand Seiko name moved from 6 o’clock to the very top of the dial, symbolizing its journey to full independence.

Subsequently, Grand Seiko watches became more elevated, more refined, and more superior. They began featuring beautiful hand-engraved dials, jewellery-like masterpieces, and models that boasted movements that were more precise and powerful than ever before.

However, it was in 2019 when Grand Seiko watches gained a new identity. The Elegance Collection introduced a new design direction for the manufacturer. 

These models promised the strength and resilience to be worn every day but the grace and finesse to bring sophistication to every eventuality. Despite bridging the gap between classic and contemporary, some models pay homage to milestone models from the brand’s past.

Over the last few years, the collection has expanded to accommodate some very special timepieces that demonstrate exceptional craftsmanship. Watches from this collection lean into the dressier side of watchmaking. 

The dials are free from any intricate complications, instead offering simpler features like a date or GMT function. The displays are also clean and classic, lending to a very universal palette.

It makes sense that the only naysayers of the Grand Seiko name are those who tend to have had very little time on the wrist with them. I dare say that to fully appreciate the palpable beauty of a watch from the Elegance Collection like the SBGK017; one does have to shake hands with the timepiece and really get to know it. 

Upon doing so, you’ll quickly come to realize that Grand Seiko watches are every bit as beautiful as collectors say they are. The Elegance Collection SBGK017 watch is most deserving of this reputation and is no exception to the rule, as you’re about to find out.

The Case

Let’s get the basics out of the way first…

The Proportions

The Grand Seiko SBGK017 has a diameter of 39mm and a case depth of 11.6mm. The lug-to-lug measurement of the case is 44mm, and the watch is also 30-meter water resistant. It takes on the style of those watches belonging to the brand’s Thin Dress Series with a relatively slim profile, enabling it to slip easily under the cuff of a shirt. 

Its slim case will favor the watch well when it comes to pairing it with elegant evening attire or an office suit. The model features an exhibition caseback that grants a clear view of the working movement inside (we’ll get to that bit later), along with a non-screw-down crown.

Here’s where the case design gets interesting, however. The underside of the case is concave in shape, allowing the watch to sit closer to the skin. Grand Seiko specialists design this case with comfort in mind. 

Subtle, discreet details like this really do go a long way to achieving a more ergonomic fit for everyday wear. Unlike, say, the 44GS watches, for example – this model is anything but aggressive and sharp. Instead, its soft and flowing curves bring about an organic structure, allowing it to wrap nicely around the smaller-than-average male wrist.

The Zaratsu Case Polish

If you’ve spent a considerable amount of time with Grand Seiko watches before, you’ll know that the Zaratsu polishing technique is an exclusive and highly distinguishable feature of the famous Japanese brand’s watches. But this signature style didn’t just come overnight. It took the brand several years to research, trialing many different techniques until this exquisite and unique-looking execution was finally mastered. 

By perfecting the technique of Zaratsu polishing, Grand Seiko experts were able to achieve flat, smooth surfaces without any undesirable light distortion. Rather than softening the angle of the ridge that forms where two planes meet, GS craftsmen shelved the idea of buffing and instead turned to the skill of Zaratsu. 

Despite the refinement of CNC machining and cold forging, the completion of a Grand Seiko case still requires the expert skills of artisans who can sand a case, buff it until it’s smooth, and then finish it with the Zaratsu polish. As you can imagine, not everyone can be trusted with such a role.

The word “Zaratsu” takes its name from the company that owned the machinery that created this magnificent case finish. The execution is achieved by holding a moving surface firmly while facing it head-on towards a rotating disc clad with sandpaper. The result is an extraordinarily smooth surface. 

To bring the surface up to a mirror-polished effect, a final buffing is applied to the metal. The complexity of this process is often underestimated by enthusiasts. While Zaratsu polishing gives the watch a distinctive edge over other high-end competitors, there are hurdles to overcome. 

While one section may be polished beautifully, the left and right sides of the case may be uneven. The only way to tackle the problem is to increase the pressure that holds the surface against the wheel while checking the entire piece over.  It’s both an art form and a responsibility that only a few can master.

The Glass and Crown

The double-domed sapphire crystal in this Grand Seiko SBGK017 is quite pronounced. It looks raised and box-like, capturing a subtle vintage charm. Combined with the lug-to-lug measurement and a depth of nearly 12mm, the glass undoubtedly contributes to these crowd-pleasing proportions. 

One particular feature that collectors seem to love about this watch is the refinements of the winding crown. When winding up the watch, the crown stamped with the iconic Seiko logo is butter-smooth under the fingertips, adding to that all-important premium feel. A directional brushing on the sides of the case was mixed with the mirror-polished technique, too. 

You may not be able to venture into deep waters with this 30-meter water-resistant watch, but this is not a style you’ll likely want to do that with. Nevertheless, Grand Seiko experts do a superb job of combining all the features you need in a dressy, all-around daily beater.

The Dial

The dial is probably where this Grand Seiko watch differentiates itself the most when compared to other designs in the collection. The dial has become the signature feature of some of the most highly desirable GS watches, and many from this series are inspired by nature. Take the iconic snowflake-inspired dials, those that mimic falling blossoms or those that feature organic, earthy colors, for example.

There is a concentric and almost patisserie-like style to this dial. The pattern, which starts large at the periphery of the dial, gets gradually smaller as the layers work toward the center of the display. The effect is almost spiral-like. 

The multi-faceted markers also taper. And this is not a dial you’d instantly associate with nature because, this time, Grand Seiko doesn’t draw inspiration from the great outdoors. Instead, the dial is inspired by the textures found in the traditional Japanese art of Nanbu Tekki.

Nanbu Tekki is an age-old form of ironwork, common from the 1600s right through to the 1800s. As this is a manmade artform, rather than inspiration taken from nature, it makes for a particularly unique dial from Grand Seiko. This dial represents an age of classicism, which is very fitting considering the collection it belongs to. 

The textured dial is finished with facetted hands and a tapering needle-like hand for the power reserve indicator. As mentioned, the small seconds feature resides at 9 o’clock, giving more space and focus to the simple timekeeping elements of the dial.  

Upon looking even closer at the dial, I noticed that the tip of the minute hand has a slight curvature to comply with the curve of the dial. This cleverly rids the dial of any distortion when looking in at it from the side. This is a really nice touch because it’s not a design feature we see in many modern watches today.

The Movement 

The Calibre 9S63 was produced in 2019 as part of the 9S series, constituting a tried and tested movement that has proved incredibly reliable over the years. The mechanical manual movement has an impressive 72-hour power reserve once fully wound, enabling it to keep perfect time when you’re alternating the watch with other favorites in your collection. 

With an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds a day, the movement comprises 33 jewels for a smooth performance and has undergone an extensive regulation process that goes far beyond the standards we associate with those outside the METAS testing institute. 

The arrival of the Calibre 9S63 was an important one since it marked the first update within the 9S series in terms of a non-Spring Drive Calibre in 8 years. The reason for the wait stemmed from a complete overhaul of the movement and a redesign. 

It featured a small second sub-dial at 9 o’clock and a power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. Now, with 20% more components than before, this new generation 9S movement is a complete in-house effort. 

Painstaking efforts have been made to execute this movement. Even the grooves between each gear tooth have been polished by a watchmaker, one by one, to avoid friction. Fabricated parts of the movement are engineered by Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems (MEMS) technology, and tolerances of one-thousandth of a millimeter are tested and approved before the movement is fitted to the heart of the SBGK017.

The Bracelet 

Grand Seiko equips the SBGK017 model with a stylish 9-link bracelet that almost leans into Milanese bracelet territory. The links, although quite elongated, are packed tight into the design, enabling you to get a snug fit against the wrist despite the absence of a micro-adjustment feature. 

This model also comes with an additional black alligator leather strap and a stainless steel buckle to match the case design. The Seiko logo has been engraved into the fastening, doubling up as a symbol of authenticity and quality craftsmanship. 

The bracelet begins at 19mm at the lug end and then slowly transitions into a slightly slimmer clasp end, measuring in at 18mm. Tapering bracelets do, of course, create the impression of a smaller and more manageable fit on the wrist. Those collectors with wrists measuring on the smaller side will appreciate this element of the bracelet’s design.

As with every high-end purchase, a collector is going to want all the little trimmings that come with a special purchase like this, and Grand Seiko knows this. The manufacturer includes the paperwork outlining the regulations of the watch, which I think is a really nice touch. Of course, you also get the instructions booklet and the warranty certificate, along with a genuine Grand Seiko presentation box to keep the watch safe.

How does it wear?

You’ll recall that earlier in this review, I mentioned that the SBGK017 belongs to the Thin Dress Series of the Evolution 9 concept. This collection launched back in 2019 with an intentional and purposeful design language – to wear at every opportunity. So, it’s not like these dress watches should be reserved for the finest of occasions. Moreover, the watch makes every occasion feel the finest.

As I also mentioned, the 39mm case is compact, which lends itself well to smaller-wristed males, as does the tapering bezel. The domed dial and curving minute hand, not to mention the concave underside of the case, all make for a comfortable and ergonomic fit on the wrist.

Price and Availability

If you love the impeccable finishing on a Grand Seiko watch as much as I do, you’ll agree that watches like this are every bit worth their price tag. You’ll struggle to find a similar case finishing for this price category elsewhere on the market. 

The watch has a richness and a depth to it that feels high-end, but when you compare it with some more expensive mechanical options out there, the level of finishing is much more superior. The Grand Seiko SBGK017 is priced at $8,900, which, if you ask me, is hard to argue with.

Conclusion 

The Grand Seiko SBGK017 is a well-executed and truly great design, especially if you’re looking for a brand that will give you that high-end feel but without the five-figure price tag.

The refined movement, with components made from anti-shock and anti-magnetic alloys, is resistant to magnetic damage and able to deliver incredible accuracy inside slim proportions. The Zaratsu polishing and brushing techniques are a nice blend. 

They add depth to the design, not to mention a high-end feel. The classic black dial is sure to pair well with all attire, and the case itself is geared towards those who struggle with larger watches sitting within the 41mm+ category.

On the whole, this is another stellar example of Grand Seiko’s Elegance Collection DNA. Ideal for wearing as a sophisticated companion with evening attire, you also have the chance to change the metal band over to something more casual from Grand Seiko’s strap range or, indeed, the additional black alligator leather strap it comes with.

Grand Seiko, the pride of Japan, is often heralded as horologically innovative—in part due to their incredible Spring Drive movements—and, of course, for their utter dedication to putting out timepieces with finishing that surpasses watches costing two to three times as much. 

The SBGR325 is not powered by Spring Drive; it actually has a mechanical movement! And let’s just get this out of the way: the dial is incredible, the finishing is incredible, the watch IS incredible. I have lusted over a Grand Seiko for some time, and in considering which piece might be best, the SBGR325 quickly rose to the top of my list.

History

The Grand Seiko SBGR325 is part of its esteemed Heritage Collection, paying homage to the 1967 introduction of the 44GS, a watch that established modern, angular, and masculine Grand Seiko styling. In 2023, Grand Seiko marked the 25th anniversary of its game-changing caliber 9S with special edition watches from the Heritage collection. These models feature dials that take inspiration from the shifting skies over Mount Iwate. 

Paying tribute to the first-ever GS watch that sported the in-house 9S mechanical movement, designed by Nobuhiro Kosugi back in 1998, the Grand Seiko SBGR325 comes in the same sleek case design with a compact 37mm diameter. Oh, and they’re super exclusive—only 1,200 pieces will be made!

Case 

“I like them a lot—they are just too big for me.” I’m sure many who work at a Grand Seiko boutique have heard these words before. I am sure many of you who are familiar with the watch enthusiast community have either heard or said a similar phrase, too. But things are quickly changing over at Grand Seiko and throughout the watch industry. 

Maisons are listening, whether it be through social media, the algorithm, or just word of mouth. Alterations to models are happening at a faster pace than ever before, and if you think about it, it makes perfect sense. They want to build what the people want, and in doing so, they’ll sell more watches. Sound logic.

The SBGR325 features a 37mm case diameter and a thickness of 13.3mm. Don’t raise a brow at the watch’s 13.3mm thickness; this is in part due to the beautiful domed sapphire crystal. On my 6.5-inch wrist, this watch felt amazing. 

I’d been looking at the SBGA415, which is also part of Grand Seiko’s Heritage collection but with a slightly larger case diameter of 40mm. I know 3mm is a small number, but I really did feel a night-and-day difference in trying on both watches at the same boutique. It just fits me better, plain and simple. If you have small to medium-sized wrists, this watch is the Grand Seiko for you. 

The finishing on the case alternates between Zaratsu polished and brushed surfaces, and the conical bezel is fully polished. See-through caseback gives a glimpse into the beautiful 9S65 movement with a custom titanium blue rotor. Finally, a fluted crown makes for easy winding and time adjustment. All in all, this is a beautiful package!

Dial 

True artistry is inspired, and Grand Seiko has never kept a secret about where it draws inspiration: from the beautiful nature surrounding its two studios—one in Iwate, the other in Shinshu. The SBGR325 takes inspiration from the shifting skies over Mount Iwate. This offers a breathtaking sky-blue, some might even call it an on-trend Tiffany blue that you have to see in person to fully appreciate. The rendered images and even the high-quality photography fail to do this timepiece justice! 

The applied GS logo in gold offers a wonderful contrast, and the heat-treated second hand gracefully floats around the dial. Some watch aficionados decry Grand Seiko’s insistence on destroying dial symmetry with power reserve indicators (which I actually love, but that’s neither here nor there), and they will be happy to see that such an indicator has not been included on this watch. They may, however, scoff at the date window, which is not color-matched, nor does it do anything to help the symmetry of the watch.

Movement 

The 9S65 in-house automatic movement is beautiful to look at with its high-level detailed finishing. Where it truly shines, though, is in its power reserve, boasting a whopping 80 hours (up from the 55 hours of the previous generation 9S). While this might not seem that high, it’s impressive, considering it’s a Hi-Beat movement that runs at 36,000 vph and has excellent tolerances (+5/-3 seconds per day). 

The new 9S65 caliber features a very energy-efficient escapement and a new free-sprung balance specially designed for this movement. This new design allows for higher accuracy over longer periods of time while offering superior shock and friction resistance. Additionally, Grand Seiko kept it very thin, making it 15% slimmer than other 9S Hi-Beat calibers. 

The Grand Seiko SBGR325 has an exhibition sapphire case back, allowing you to enjoy observing the beautifully finished 9SA5 caliber. When I first held the watch in hand, I was mesmerized by the finishing—and also by the movement of the second hand, which seemed to effortlessly glide around the dial, almost as smoothly as a spring drive.

Straps 

We’ve all heard how Grand Seiko bracelets are a step behind the competition. The rumor mill hints at a possible micro-adjustment clasp being released in the future, but as of now, you get a standard butterfly clasp without fine-adjustment. The SBGR325 bracelet is a standard, stainless steel Grand Seiko bracelet, which means it is “good enough.” 

Some argue, and rightfully so, that where Grand Seiko excels in finishing, movement technology, and dial, they fall short on their bracelets. The SBGR325 felt “good enough” on my wrist, and that’s not to say that it is a bad bracelet, but I think I would probably prefer this on a blue, gray, or even a brown leather strap. 

The 20mm lug width offers the wearer ease in finding alternative straps, and the inclusion of drilled lugs facilitates easier strap changes. So the bracelet is not the SBGR325’s strongest feature, but it functions well enough for a luxury wristwatch.

On-Wrist Experience 

Sublime. If I could just write one word for the on-wrist experience of the SBGR325 and leave it at that, the word would be sublime. Yes, watches are trending a bit smaller these days, but I’ve always been perfectly happy with the prospect of a 40mm Grand Seiko. But then I tried on this 37mm watch, and I fell in love. 

I wasn’t constantly rearranging the watch, and I wasn’t aware that it was even on my wrist. And then I’d look down, and there it was, its distinct dial reminding me that the sky’s the limit, that artistry, and craftsmanship are something to be celebrated and passed down from generation to generation, that good things do come in small packages. 

The SBGR325 offers classic wristwatch dimensions with a playful and meditative splash of color. Here’s a watch that you can effortlessly wear with formal attire. It would also go with a pair of shorts and a T-shirt for grilling and chilling on a Saturday afternoon with friends. The salesman who helped me with the watch was smiling because he knew that I had found a keeper. 

He told me that customers have been raving about the on-wrist experience and that this model was an extremely popular release. Unfortunately, I kept the plastic safe in my wallet, my wife’s voice echoing in my head, “No more watches.” I don’t know how long I can go without, but the SBGR325 is now at the top of my Grand Seiko wishlist! 

Price & Availability 

The SBGR325 is available at all authorized dealers of Grand Seiko and has an MSRP of $5,300. If you are seeking a Grand Seiko SBGR325, there is no better place to purchase one than Exquisite Timepieces. At Exquisite Timepieces, we’re renowned for our expertise in luxury timepieces and our enduring partnerships with esteemed brands like Grand Seiko. 

As an authorized dealer of Grand Seiko, we have the expertise and experience to answer any questions you may have. We also have an extensive collection of Grand Seiko models. Feel free to explore our curated collection online or experience the exclusive range available at our boutique in Naples, Florida. Every order from Grand Seiko includes complimentary delivery and comprehensive insurance, ensuring your luxury watch arrives securely. 

Of course, there are other places to purchase a Grand Seiko timepiece, such as an online marketplace or on various watch forums, but with millions upon millions of inauthentic watches in circulation, the safest place to purchase any high-end timepiece is always a reputable dealer such as Exquisite Timepieces. 

Purchasing from an authorized dealer such as Exquisite Timepieces also ensures that you receive Grand Seiko’s full factory warranty: a phenomenal five years from the date of purchase.

Put your mind at ease, and let us do the legwork for you!

Conclusion 

You’ve been meaning to scratch that Grand Seiko itch—I mean, who hasn’t? And if you are reading this article and have yet to step into a boutique, do yourself a favor. Go have your mind blown by watches that rival the finest this industry has to offer, oftentimes at a fraction of the premium. 

I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again: Pictures do not do these watches justice. They simply have to be felt on the wrist. Their dials beg for a closer, almost meditative inspection. And the light-play—gosh. You can’t fully appreciate the artistry that goes into Zaratsu polishing unless you’ve seen the light-play in person.

All in all, Grand Seiko continues to impress with their release of the SBGR325. Sure, their bracelet is in sore need of an upgrade, and a color-matching date wheel would have been nice, but overall this is a watch with timeless sizing, profound artistry, and state-of-the-art technology. You simply can’t go wrong.

Personally, I’m an analog watch guy. Nothing beats an old-school timepiece. Having said that, there is no denying the usefulness of a smartwatch and although it’s not my daily wrist companion, I do own one. 

Among the smartwatch brands, Apple is one of the most popular. When it comes to tech, the company has an enormous fan base, and the watches are no exception. Apple has stepped on the toes of smaller competitors in the recent past and has been accused of stealing employees and technology. You may have heard that Apple watch sales have been banned in the U.S. 

Understandably, this is an area of concern for Apple lovers who are in the market for a new watch. Is it true? The simple answer is yes. This doesn’t mean you can’t buy any Apple watch in the U.S. There’s a bit more to it than that. Let’s get into the how, why, and when.

All About the Apple Watch Lawsuit

Perhaps the best features of smartwatches are their fitness and health apps. Tracking steps, calories burned, pulse rate, sleep quality, and other health-related issues is enormously useful. Tech of this type is an excellent tool in the battle to maintain a healthy body. 

The health-monitoring features of smart watches continue to evolve, and it’s almost like wearing a doctor on your wrist. It is in this aspect of smart technology that Apple ran into trouble.

Released in 2020, the Apple Series 6 smartwatch featured technology to monitor blood oxygen levels along with heart rate. The innovation proved popular, and Apple has used it in successive new watch releases.

The release of the Series 9 and Ultra 2 smartwatches in 2023 is where the trouble started.  Masimo, a medical tech company based in Irvine, CA, developed and patented the pulse oxygen sensing tech in 2020.

Masimo, which has had problems with Apple in the past, filed a lawsuit in 2023 claiming patent infringement on the pulse oximetry technology used in the watches.

In October of that year, the U.S. International Trade Commission ruled that Apple had indeed infringed on Masimo’s patents and placed a ban on the sale of the Series 9 and Ultra 2 in the United States.

In December, Apple managed to get the court to place a stay on the ban and put the watches in question back on the market, but it was short-lived. Before the end of the year, the ban was back in place, leaving the tech giant to come up with a new sales plan while fighting the lawsuit.

On January 18, 2024, Apple released new versions of the Series 9 and Ultra 2 in which the blood oxygen sensing technology is disabled. These versions are still available so you can buy Apple watches in the U.S. The sensors will not work, even if you are wearing the watch in another country.

In April 2024, Apple filed an appeal with the U.S. Court of Appeals Federal Circuit, claiming that the ITC’s decision to ban the sale of the watches was based on a series of defective patent rulings. Thus far, the ban remains in place. Apple continues its fight and will likely come to some kind of settlement with Masimo involving licensing of the tech. In the meantime, only the watches with the sensor disabled can be sold.

Can You Buy Apple Watches Today?

The main question fans of Apple want an answer as to whether you currently buy their watches. Yes, Apple watches are still available in the U.S. The altered versions of the Series 9 and Ultra 2 are legal to sell, as are any other models. 

Provided the O2 sensor technology is not activated, any Apple watch can be purchased. In fact, the company’s CEO Tim Cook emphatically stated that there are still good reasons to buy the watches even without the disputed technology.

Because the lawsuit is contested in U.S. courts, Apple watches with the oxygen sensor tech can still be purchased in Canada, the UK, and most other nations. 

Other Notable Apple Watch Lawsuits

The Masimo lawsuit is not the first time a company or individual has filed a complaint against the tech giant. Apple has a history of conflict with other tech companies in and out of court.

AliveCor, a medical tech company that sells heart-monitoring devices, filed a suit against Apple in 2021, claiming that the company was abusing its power as a monopoly against competitors in the heart-monitoring market. 

AliveCor filed several patent-infringement lawsuits claiming that its cofounder demonstrated Kardiaband, a heart monitoring device, to executives at Apple at a meeting in 2015. The suits allege that Apple developed its own tech a year after the meeting and announced its release just hours after AliveCor announced the release of the Kardia Band. 

The suit alleges a patent violation and further claims that Apple went on to dominate the market and block third parties from selling competing products. 

In 2019, a New York cardiologist, Joseph Wiesel, filed a lawsuit against Apple in Federal Court. Weisel claimed the company infringed on his patent on a tool that monitors heart irregularities. A court date has not been set, but Apple was granted a temporary stay.

Even Masimo has squabbled with Apple in the past. In 2013, Apple hired an engineer and 20 other employees who had previously worked for Masimo. The smaller company claimed that Apple did so to steal tech the ex-employees had developed.

Conclusion

Apple is a mammoth tech company and as such, has had its share of run-ins with smaller companies claiming patent infringements and other issues. Apple generally works its way to a solution and keeps rolling along.

For American fans of Apple watches, at least for the foreseeable future, you won’t be able to purchase a watch with the O2 sensor technology. It’s likely that Apple and Masimo will eventually reach a settlement. In the meantime, you can still buy Apple watches with plenty of health and other useful features.

Apple Watch Generations

If you’re a watch aficionado—which by reading this blog, I am assuming you are—you probably scan the wrists of people passing you by, maybe without even realizing you are doing it. You may see a Timex or a Casio, maybe an occasional Rolex or two, but chances are that the vast majority of wrists have Apple watches on. 

It’s crazy to think that what began as a quirky wrist computer has transformed the world as we know it. The Apple Watch is, in essence, a continuation of Steve Jobs’ vision: to make personal computers accessible and present. 

First released in 2015, Apple has released numerous models of its watch over the years, each bringing new and exciting technology to the wearer. If you’re an Apple Watch enthusiast, or someone interested in dipping their toes into the ocean of smartwatches, this guide is for you. So strap in (pun intended), and let’s learn about the history of Apple Watches!

History of the Apple Watch

On September 9, 2014, CEO Tim Cook first introduced the Apple Watch. I remember hearing grumblings at the time: “Oh, Steve Jobs would have never allowed such a stale and boring release,” and “Oh, Apple is just trying to grab money.” 

I wasn’t as critical or skeptical at the time because I was already deeply into my hobby of wristwatches, and I knew the allure of technology. The watch was finally released in 2015, and it was a major success. 

Apple wanted to create a device that would blend seamlessly into users’ lives, offering superior functionality while maintaining Apple’s sleek and modern design language. They succeeded! Also known as the Series 0, the original Apple Watch set the stage for what would become one of the most influential tech releases of all time.

List of Apple Watch Generations

Now, let’s dive into the specifics of each generation, complete with release dates. We’ll cover what made each model stand out and how they evolved over time.

Original Apple Watch (Series 0)

Release Date: April 24, 2015

The Original Apple Watch was revolutionary. No, it wasn’t the first smartwatch to ever be released, but it was the first “complete product.” 

It wasn’t clunky or slow like other smartwatches of the time; it offered a blend of functionality and style, featuring a square Retina display, a Digital Crown for navigation, and was available in three models: Apple Watch, Apple Watch Sport, and Apple Watch Edition. While it wasn’t perfect—performance was a bit sluggish, and battery life left something to be desired—it laid the foundation for what was to come. 

Apple’s release, as they tend to do with all things technology, laid the groundwork for new design language within the segment. Not to sound repetitive, but the original Apple Watch was truly revolutionary!

Apple Watch Series 1

Release Date: September 16, 2016

Released alongside the Series 2, the Series 1 was essentially a refined version of the original. It featured a faster dual-core processor, making it significantly more responsive. However, it lacked the GPS and water resistance features that came with the Series 2. It was an excellent entry-level option for those new to the Apple Watch ecosystem.

Apple Watch Series 2

Release Date: September 16, 2016

The Series 2 was a significant leap in smartwatch technology. It introduced water resistance (up to 50 meters), a built-in GPS, and a brighter display, making this model ideal for outdoor activities such as hiking, skiing, and camping. The new S2 chip, released with the Apple Watch Series 2, was both faster and more efficient than the previous hardware. 

This Apple Watch Series 2 truly began to push the boundaries of what a smartwatch could do, especially for fitness enthusiasts. The Apple Watch Series 2 was actually the first Apple Watch I’d ever tried, and at the time, I remember wondering if this was the end for traditional wristwatches. Thankfully, I was wrong, but there can be no doubt that the rippling impacts of Apple’s watch have been felt across the watch industry.

Apple Watch Series 3

Release Date: September 22, 2017

“Without my phone, I can’t receive phone calls, text, or check my email on my Apple Watch?” It was inevitable that Apple would bring cellular capabilities to the Apple Watch, and they did just this with the release of the Apple Watch Series 3. 

I can’t stress how much of a game-changer this was. Now you could work out and leave your clunky phone behind, all while maintaining the ability to make calls, send texts, and stream music directly from your watch (no iPhone needed). It also featured an upgraded S3 processor, which made everything run smoother. 

The introduction of the altimeter was a bonus for those who love tracking elevation during workouts. I myself am a big snowboarder, and I love being able to track data, elevation, and spent calories. I didn’t have an Apple Watch yet, but I remember being extremely jealous of my ski and snowboard buddies who did. 

Apple Watch Series 4

Release Date: September 21, 2018

What happens when you are expected to release a new version of a popular piece of hardware each and every year? Well, people get bored and are less inclined to spend hundreds of dollars when their own devices work just fine. But somehow, Apple managed to make their new product—the Apple Watch Series 4—desirable. 

First, they make it sexier, sleeker, and easier to look at. The major redesign featured a larger display with thinner bezels. Then, they include life-saving technology through the ECG app, which could detect irregular heart rhythms, and fall detection, which could notify emergency services if you took a hard fall. It was a significant leap in both design and health monitoring capabilities. Since the release of the ECG app, Apple has been credited with saving hundreds of lives.

Apple Watch Series 5

Release Date: September 20, 2019

The Apple Watch Series 5 continued to improve on its Retina display by offering always-on technology, something that users have been clamoring for everywhere. Heck, if you think about it, who would want a watch that wasn’t on when you needed it to be? They managed to do this without negatively impacting performance or battery life. 

Additionally, continuing the trend of creating products that would be useful for adventurers and outdoor enthusiasts, this version of Apple’s watch included a built-in compass and expanded storage. 

The Apple Watch Series 5 was my first Apple Watch, and I only recently updated to the Series 9. I spent over four years wearing this watch, predominantly for snowboarding, and I have to admit, today, I feel naked on the mountain without my Apple watch.

Apple Watch Series 6

Release Date: September 18, 2020

Apple continued the trend of health consciousness, possibly in response to the COVID-19 pandemic, by including a new blood oxygen sensor with the Apple Watch Series 6. The release also saw a new and faster S6 chip, along with improvements to the always-on display. 

Apple made additional customization options available by offering new colorways, along with a variety of new bands. Want a black watch with a camo-patterned nylon strap? Sure, get the new Apple Watch. The 2020 release by Apple exhibited a continued dedication to the individual user, along with improving upon what made these smartwatches so great to begin with.

Apple Watch SE (1st Generation)

Release Date: September 18, 2020

The Apple Watch SE was a more affordable option. It touted the same design as the Series 4 but lacked the always-on display and some of the health monitoring functionality such as the electrocardiogram (ECG) and oxygen sensor. 

Moreover, it came without the fast charging capabilities of the Series 6. Some people just wanted an Apple Watch to track their steps, check some emails or texts on the go, and as a fashion accessory. This was the perfect model for someone looking for a solid smartwatch on a budget!

Apple Watch Series 7

Release Date: October 15, 2021

While not featuring a new design, the Apple Watch Series 7 had a larger display—with 20% more real estate—that featured a durable and crack-resistant crystal. At the time, they boasted that this was the most durable Apple Watch ever released. 

It was also the first Apple Watch to have an IP6X certification for resistance to dust and maintain 50 meters of water resistance. Though the internal specs were similar to the Series 6, the display was the highlight, providing a more immersive experience.

Apple Watch Series 8

Release Date: September 16, 2022

The series 8 continued to offer new health monitoring functionality, implementing a temperature sensor that was particularly useful for tracking menstrual cycles and fertility. It also featured crash detection, a potentially life-saving feature that could detect car accidents and notify emergency services. To date, this has been credited with saving many lives! 

The S8 chip offered improved performance and efficiency, making it a well-rounded upgrade. One of the features of this release was that it offered a low-power mode, enabling the watch to have 36 hours of battery life! While the watch wasn’t radically new, it did continue to build on Apple’s successful formula.

Apple Watch SE (2nd Generation)

Release Date: September 16, 2022

The 2nd generation Apple Watch SE provided an even more affordable entry point into the Apple Watch ecosystem. This time around, Apple chose to not throttle its cost-conscious smartwatch with an older chip. 

They used the same S8 chip as the Series 8 but with less functionality and hardware. It lacked the Always-On display and most of the advanced healthcare features, such as the blood oxygen sensor, ECG, and temperature sensor. The watch still offered loads of functionality for around half the price of the Series 8! 

Apple Watch Ultra (1st Generation)

Release Date: September 23, 2022

The Apple Watch Ultra was a new release, and came as a surprise to me and many watch enthusiasts. Here was a smartwatch designed specifically for extreme sports and outdoor enthusiasts. 

Its rugged design was larger, more durable, and with an extended battery life. It also had special features like a depth gauge (for underwater diving) and a new, customizable, Action button, which allowed for users to customize which activity and fitness apps were a quick click away. 

That said, the Apple Watch Ultra only came in a large 49mm configuration, which doesn’t necessarily work well with smaller to medium-sized wrists; this is why I sprang for the Series 9 when upgrading my Series 5. I remember wishing I had larger wrists, because I really like the Apple Watch Ultra.

Apple Watch Series 9

Release Date: September 12, 2023

The Series 9 brought even more advanced health and fitness features, including improved sleep tracking and a more accurate heart rate monitor. The display was brighter than ever, and the new S9 chip offered the best performance yet. It continued to build on Apple’s commitment to health and wellness. 

I continue to wear my Series 9 for snowboarding, and I must admit that I have struggled with insomnia for most of my adult life. I wear the Series 9 to bed every night, and I find that the sleep tracking is actually helpful for me and trying to iron out my difficult sleep habits. As of my writing this, I still do have my Series 9, and it continues to serve me well, both on and off the slopes.

Apple Watch Ultra (2nd Generation)

Release Date: September 12, 2023

The 2nd generation Apple Watch Ultra refined the concept of a rugged, adventure-focused smartwatch. It included additional environmental sensors, improved satellite communication features, and even better durability. It was the go-to choice for those who needed a smartwatch that could withstand the harshest conditions.

Apple Watch Generations You Can Buy Today

As of today, there are a variety of new models available directly from Apple, including the Apple Watch Series 8, Series 9, 2nd Generation SE, and Apple Watch Ultra (both generations). Older models have been discontinued, but a quick Google search will show you that they are available second-hand or refurbished. If you are a “latest and greatest” chaser, then take a closer look at the Series 9 or Ultra.

Conclusion

When I think of the great “movers” within the watch industry, I think of brands like Seiko and Rolex. Brands that have a lasting impression, who have changed the industry, who mold and shape contemporary conversations around fashion. 

I never thought, not in a million years, that I would be mentioning Apple as one of the greatest industry shakers, but indeed they are! There can be no doubt that the Apple Watch has impacted the Swiss watch industry profoundly, maybe even more so than the invention of the quartz watch. 

In 2023, the Swiss watch industry sold approximately 15.8 million units​. During the same year, Apple sold around 38 million Apple Watches​. This comparison highlights a notable trend: Apple Watches outsold Swiss watches by more than double. 

The strong performance of Apple in the smartwatch market reflects its appeal and the growing consumer interest in wearable technology. And, as you can see, Apple continues to improve on their proven design, offering unparalleled connectivity, healthcare functionality, and fitness tracking. Steve Jobs would be proud, no doubt!

Modern Hamilton watches are “Swiss Made”, with headquarters and production in Bienne, Switzerland, but the company was “Born in the U.S.A.” in Lancaster, PA, in 1892. For over 70 years, Hamilton was an American brand known for robust and accurate watches worn by the country’s railroad workers, aviators, soldiers, sailors, and even musicians and movie stars, including “The King of Rock and Roll”, Elvis Presley.

During that same period, a new genre of music emerged from African American communities in the Deep South—jazz. Characterized by improvisation, smooth sounds, and upbeat rhythms, jazz channeled the fresh, frenetic energy of a nation coming into its own in the 20^th Century and adapting to a leading role on the world stage.

Hamilton sought to capture the spirit of jazz with the launch of the Jazzmaster Lord Hamilton Chronograph in 1967. Since then, the Jazzmaster line has evolved into the company’s largest collection by fusing classic designs with modern materials and designs to produce contemporary timepieces that exude refinement and sophistication—not unlike jazz itself.

In this review, I’ll discuss 15 top Jazzmaster models and offer guidance on which one might best suit your needs and lifestyle.

About Hamilton Jazzmaster Watches

Hamilton is best known for its military watches (“Khaki” collections) and prolific product placement pieces in movies and television, such as the “Ventura” and the Khaki Field “Murph”. 

Hamilton created the Jazzmaster collection by mixing mid-century and contemporary design cues, and it has grown to over 175 references that feature modern aesthetics, materials, movements (automatic and quartz available), and complications. Jazzmaster models lean more toward refined dress models than sport watches. 

However, there are Jazzmaster chronographs, and even some of the dressier references have some tool watch touches such as numbered bezels and enhanced water resistance that create a sporty, “do everything” vibe that fits right in at the concert hall or clubhouse.

Which Hamilton Jazzmaster Watch is Right for You

If you’re looking for a Hamilton watch rugged enough for outdoor and water activities, the Jazzmaster family will have fewer options for you to choose from than the brand’s Khaki collections. 

But let’s say you’ve already got sport and tool watches covered and want to add something more unique and eye-catching for a formal occasion or night out on the town. If that’s the case, then you will discover a plethora of possibilities in the Jazzmaster collection. If you want a little of both, there are sportier Jazzmasters that fit everyday work and casual needs. 

With over 175 references in the collection, there is a Jazzmaster that will suit nearly every lifestyle at prices that are among the best in the entry-level luxury category.

The 15 Best Hamilton Jazzmaster Watches

Here are micro-reviews of 15 top Hamilton Jazzmaster watches that demonstrate the broad range of offerings in this collection:

Hamilton Jazzmaster Auto (ref. H32475730)

The classic styling of a black dial and black leather strap make the Jazzmaster Auto a great choice for both dress and everyday office wear. The 40 mm diameter mixed polished and brushed finished stainless steel case fits a wide variety of wrists, and the 11mm thickness allows it to slide neatly beneath a shirt cuff. There are applied lumed silver color dagger indices and hour and minutes hands. 

The needle seconds hand reaches the silver seconds track and is lined with black indices that, fittingly, look like piano keys. There is a discrete date window at 6 ‘o’clock. Inside is the 80-hour power reserve Hamilton Caliber H-10 featuring an antimagnetic Nivachron™ hairspring and fine finishing touches showcased by a sapphire case back. 

The Jazzmaster Auto only has 50m of water resistance, but that should be more than enough to handle a splash of water every now and then. Retail Price: $945 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Auto Chrono (ref. H36606130)

The Jazzmaster Performer Auto Chrono is a descendant of the “patriarch” Jazzmaster, the Lord Hamilton Chronograph. The 42 mm sapphire sandwich stainless steel case is mostly brushed, but polished accents include the elongated pushers, crown, and chamfered edges of the 22 mm width lugs. 

The case is paired with an all-brushed stainless steel bracelet with a butterfly clasp. The dial is black with a silver border minutes track and three subdials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. Indices are applied and lumed, and the hours and minutes hands are sword-shaped with an arrowhead-tipped timings seconds hand. 

The watch is powered by the Hamilton Calibre H-31 movement, which has a 60-hour power reserve. The screw-down crown assists in providing a respectable 100-meter of water resistance. 

This is a chronometer with a bit of flair and would fit a wide variety of daily needs, including dress occasions—a dash of Daytona, reverse “Panda” vibe without the forever wait and exorbitant price. Retail Price: $2,245

Hamilton Jazzmaster Regulator Cinema (ref. H42605731)

The Jazzmaster Regulator Cinema salutes Hamilton’s regular appearance in movies with a statement piece that was gifted to presenters and honorees at the 10^th Hamilton Behind the Camera Awards in 2018. 

The 42 mm size stainless steel case is 12.8 mm thick, has mixed brushed and polished finishing, a lug width of 22 mm, and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. It is paired with a leather deployant strap and a Hamilton-signed double pusher clasp. 

The dial has a black textured finish and two subdials designed to look and function like spoked movie reels, employing a rotating red arrow to indicate hours and seconds. There is a long traditional minutes hand. 

The words “Hamilton Automatic” are embedded in a strip of film in the upper right. All the dial elements are integrated and feature contrasting black, red, silver, white, and gray. On the back is a sapphire display caseback with a flowing ribbon of movie film. Hurray for Hollywood! Hurray for Hamilton! Retail Price: $1,295 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Chrono Quartz (ref. H32612131)

The Jazzmaster Chrono Quartz is another great all-occasion watch for the person who wants both “set it and forget it” and elapsed timing capabilities. The case is 42 mm diameter, 12 mm thick stainless steel with mixed brushed and polished finishing and paired with a butterfly clasp, 22 mm width mixed finished stainless steel bracelet with integrated “H-shaped” central links that give a stylish overlapping effect. 

The dial is black with lumed dagger indices except for an Arabic numeral 12. The hour and minutes hands are lumed and Dauphine-style, and there is a needle timing seconds hand. Subdials are at 10, 2, and 6 and show timing 30 timing minutes, 1/10 seconds, and running seconds, respectively. 

There is a date complication at 4 o’clock. The pushers are elongated for comfort and easy use, and the crown is pull/push, not screw down, but water resistance is still 100m. The watch is powered by the ETA Caliber 251.74 quartz movement. Retail Price: $945 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Auto Rose Gold (ref. H36225770)

The Jazzmaster Performer performs true to the line’s mission of combining elegant styling with sporty touches and extended water resistance. This one is unique in that the 38mm diameter, 11.5mm thick, 18 mm lug width case is rose gold PVD coated stainless steel for an upscale look. It is mostly brushed but has a polished, chamfered edge on the lugs and a screw-down, signed crown. The bezel is black with white Arabic numerals. 

The dial is off-white with only a logo and minimal script, leaving it uncluttered and legible. The indices, Dauphine hour and minutes hands, and the needle seconds hand are all gold colored. A display caseback showcases the high-performing and beautifully finished Hamilton Calibre H-10 no-date, 80-hour power reserve, 21,600 bph movement. The high-quality leather perforated racing strap with pin buckle gives it an extra sport touch. Retail Price: $1,145 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Thinline Special Edition (ref. H38421130)

The Jazzmaster Thinline Special Edition is a quartz movement, movie-themed watch inspired by the movie The Wandering Earth II, directed by Frant Gwo and based on a novel by Chinese science fiction writer Liu Cixin. 

It has a jet-black matte finish dial with an impressed planetary design and lumed, red hour and minutes hand and non-lumped small seconds hand at 6 o’clock. Within the small seconds subdial is the printed Hamilton name and logo. The streamlined stainless steel case is only 7.35 mm thick and 40 mm in diameter with 20 mm wide lugs. 

The closed caseback is engraved with the same planetary design as the dial and a “G” for the film’s director Gwo. It has a stainless steel butterfly clasp bracelet with mixed brushed and polished overlapping links. This quartz watch is definitely more a specialty piece than for everyday wear, and it might appeal to fans of both sci-fi and space exploration. Retail Price: $695 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart Auto (ref. H32675540)

This Jazzmaster has an “open heart”, a cutout in the dial that allows a view of the watch’s mechanism. Such “open access” watches are usually associated with dress watches, so naturally the Jazzmaster collection has many of these. 

This reference features a gradient dial that transitions from almost black in the periphery to a “smoky blue” center. Open heart areas are located between 7 and 8 o’clock and from 11 to 4 o’clock. It has lumed dagger indices and hour and minutes hands and an arrowhead tip on the short, central end of the needle seconds hand. 

The case is 40mm stainless steel with mixed brushed and polished finishing and is only 11mm thick. There is a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and display caseback. The movement is the no-date Hamilton H-10 with an 80-hour power reserve. The strap is 18mm in width, brown cow leather, with a pin buckle clasp. With only 50 m of water resistance, this works better with a tux than a tee. Retail Price: $1,075 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Face 2 Face III (ref. H32876550)

Calling someone “two-faced” isn’t normally a compliment, but in the case of the Jazzmaster Face 2 Face III, it is. This limited edition of 999 pieces is one of the most intriguing—and at 17.6 mm, probably also one of the thickest—chronographs out there. 

On one side of the 44 mm diameter, 22 mm lug width stainless steel case is a day-date at 3 o’clock chronograph, with a partial skeletonization showing the rotating date wheel. The flip side showcases the Hamilton H-41 movement through a display caseback and has both a tachymeter and pulsometer. 

One changes dial faces by rotating the entire case using two “hinges” at 9 and 3 o’clock. The main dial is black with subdials at 12, 9, and 6 with differing sizes, colors (the bottom subdial is blue) , and textures, creating a very unique and eye-pleasing aesthetic, an effect enhanced by the brown leather strap with blue stitching. Yes, it’s a “two-faced” and “complicated” watch—but in a good way. Retail Price: $2,995 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Viewmatic Auto (ref. H32715131)

The Viewmatic Auto is a 44 mm case diameter dress watch but is only 10.4 mm thick. If you have a thicker wrist and 38 or 40 mm diameter watches look disproportional, then this one has to be on your short list. The dial is a do-it-all black and is very balanced and uncluttered, with simple “Hamilton” branding on the top half and “automatic” on the bottom, a minute track near the rehaut, and a small date window at 3 o’clock. 

The dagger shaped indices and hour and minutes hands have enough lume to get by, but remember, it’s more a dress watch, not a sports one. Sapphire is used on the front crystal and display caseback which provides a view of the 28,800 bph, 38 hour power reserve ETA 2824-2. It’s a nice choice for the person who glances down at their ample wrist and says, “I’m gonna need a bigger watch.” Retail Price: $895.00 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Thinline Auto (ref. H38525771)

Most Jazzmaster straps and bracelets can be swapped out easily thanks to Hamilton’s “EasyClick” quick-release system. The Jazzmaster Thinline Auto has a deep, burgundy red dial and black leather strap, making it a dressy piece for formal occasions but with enough pop of color to add some interest and flair. 

With a variety of available dial and strap colors and bracelet types, one could easily transform a Thinline Auto to work in a more casual or work setting as well. The stainless steel case measures in at 40mm, and true to its name, is a wafer thin 8.45 mm. 

A date window is discreetly dropped at the 6 o’clock position. Turn over the Thinline Auto, and a sapphire display back provides a view of the ETA Caliber 2892-A2 movement working away at 28,800 bph with a power reserve of 42 hours. Classy, contemporary—pure Jazzmaster. Retail Price: $945 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Seaview Day Date Quartz (ref. H37551141)

The Jazzmaster Seaview Day Date has 100 meters of water resistance with a screw-down crown and neatly bridges the gap between the line’s dressier models and Hamilton’s “outdoorsy” Khaki family. 

The sporty 42 mm diameter stainless steel case is 10.85 mm thick and has a unidirectional timing bezel marked with simple lines and no numerals. The dial and bezel are a matching deep sea blue. The crown is signed with a silver “H” against a blue background. The Dauphine hours and minutes hands and “arrowhead” indices have adequate lume but not as much as true dive watches. 

True to the name, there are day and date windows at 3 o’clock. The bracelet is 3-link with polished outer links and brushed in the middle, with a butterfly clasp. An ETA quartz movement provides, “set it and forget it” capability, making it both accurate and a commonsense choice for everyday wear and moderate aquatic activities. Retail Price: $745

Hamilton Jazzmaster Gent Quartz (ref. H32411735)

The Hamilton Jazzmaster Gent Quartz could easily qualify as the “little black dress” of the watch world—simple, easy to maintain, affordable, and can be dressed up or down for a wide variety of occasions. 

Its mixed finished, 38 mm diameter, stainless steel case will fit a large range of wrist sizes. Its 8 mm case thickness makes for a light wrist presence and easy slide beneath a cuff. The dial is all black, with a sunburst finish central portion transitioning to a matte finish “step off” and taper downward the periphery. The lumed indices are an interesting and visually pleasing mix of Arabic numerals and arrowheads. 

The minutes track is a mix of variable-length hash marks and Arabic numerals at 5-minute intervals. The only print on the dial is a simple “Hamilton”. There is a quadrangular date window at 3 o’clock. The strap width is 18 mm wide, black leather with white stitching, with a pin buckle. “Sometimes less is more.” Retail Price: $545

Hamilton Jazzmaster Regulator Auto (ref. H42615743)

From the simplicity of the Gent Quartz, we move to the asymmetrical complexity of the dressy, no-date Jazzmaster Regulator Auto, a “tri-dial” design that could be displayed at a museum of modern art. Only the minutes hand is a traditionally central one; the other two are subdials, an hours one in the upper left and a slightly smaller and overlapping seconds one in the lower right. 

With a 42 mm diameter stainless steel case and narrow integrated bezel, there’s plenty of room for all design elements to coexist peacefully. The dial color is a deep rich blue with varying finishes: matte in the main dial, and sunburst and concentric circles in the hour and seconds subdials, respectively. 

The 22m wide strap is black leather with a deployant clasp. As a dress watch, it naturally has a modest 50 meters of water resistance. The engine is the Hamilton Caliber H-12 showcased by a sapphire caseback. Retail Price: $1,275 

Hamilton Jazzmaster GMT Auto (ref. H32695731)

The Jazzmaster GMT Auto has both a jumping “office or caller” GMT hand as well as a city world time ring in the periphery that can be rotated with the extra crown at the 9:30 position. Unlike many sport GMTs, this piece provides similar capabilities in a more refined package consistent with the Jazzmaster family ethos. 

The 42 mm stainless steel case has a thickness of only 11.5 mm, svelte by GMT standards. The dial is black with a subtle sunburst finish that exhibits differing effects and hues in variable light. The red GMT hand provides a nice contrasting pop of red. 

The white 24-hour scale and black-and-white rotating city disc cram in a lot of information, but with sparse print and a discreet date window at 6, the dial still appears relatively uncluttered and legible. It is powered by the 2893-2 movement. Retail Price: $1,295 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Face 2 Face II (ref. H32866781)

The Face 2 Face Auto Chrono is a limited edition of 1,999 pieces that has a lot going on: oval 53 mm x 44 mm stainless steel case, 17.4 mm thickness, and by my count, six complications: day, date, chronograph, tachymetry, telemetry, and pulsometry. 

That means 3 overlapping subdials on the partially skeletonized main watch face, including a ginormous running seconds subdial that takes up almost half of the main dial. This has the same rotating case feature as the aforementioned Face 2 Face III, and on the other side is a sapphire display with a view of the Caliber H-41 movement as well as tachymetry, telemetry, and pulsometry with a sky blue measuring hand. 

There is a 24 mm wide black leather strap with the same sky blue stitching and a folding clasp. This one will garner queries from regular folks and watch enthusiasts alike; the real question is: Will you be able to explain them when asked? Retail Price: $3,995 .

Conclusion

The Jazzmaster ensemble is a reminder from Hamilton of a hip and improvisational, “cool daddy-o” side to their corporate personality that adds complexity and interest to their more famous core collections of military and movie watches. Jazz music might not be for everyone, but chances are there is at least one Hamilton Jazzmaster that is right for you.