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In the vast and often complex world of horology, there are only a few watches I’d seriously consider “holy grail” pieces. These are those rare gems that have not only left an indelible mark on history but continue to inspire watchmakers around the globe to create their own adaptations. They’re not just watches that tell the time but watches that are legendary for their interpretation of time. One such icon is the Omega Speedmaster.

This legendary black-dialed chronograph with its thin tachymeter bezel and five-row link bracelet has cemented itself a place in the pantheon of watchmaking greatness. The story of its birth is worthy of history books, and it has become a symbol of ingenuity, adventure, and timeless style. But, even today, years after its creation, this is a watch that remains high up on watch collector’s bucket lists.

About The Omega Speedmaster

I’m not really much of a chronograph wearer – mainly because they’re usually too big for my small wrists. And yet, if someone offered me an Omega Speedmaster watch, I’d take it in a heartbeat. 

The model, first released in 1957, has quite easily become one of the main cornerstones in the world of chronographs and tool watches. Funnily enough, it was originally designed as a sports and racing chronograph, and its clean, functional design set it apart from other watches of that era. However, its history extended far beyond the race track, eventually becoming the first watch on the moon – but more on that shortly. 

The Omega Speedmaster’s most defining features include its striking black dial, which provides excellent contrast and readability of its chronograph function, and the thin black tachymeter bezel that allows you to measure speed based on elapsed time. 

There’s also often a five-link bracelet, adding both comfort and a handsome vintage appearance to the overall aesthetic, and a beautifully curved stainless steel case measuring 42mm wide.

History of Omega Speedmaster Watches

As mentioned, the story of the Omega Speedmaster began in 1957, starting with the introduction of the Speedmaster Ref. CK2915. It was originally designed as a sports and racing chronograph aiming to meet the needs of professional drivers – and, of course, watch enthusiasts who simply appreciate the adrenaline that goes with the racetrack. 

Ironically, despite being a perfectly capable racing chronograph, the Omega Speedmaster didn’t find much success in its early years. In fact, it took half a decade and a rather significant journey into space to make that happen.

In 1962, NASA launched the Apollo program, a set of missions that planned to land humans on the moon for the first time and bring them back to Earth safely. A year later, NASA began their search for a watch that was reliable, durable, and legible enough to suit their astronauts in space. It would serve as the official watch of the Apollo program. In the end, four brands took their shot – Omega, Longines-Wittnauer, Rolex, and Hamilton.

As you’ve probably guessed, the only watch to pass the rigorous testing for use in space missions was the Omega Speedmaster, and its selection led it to become the official watch of the Apollo missions. The watch became no stranger to zero gravity and was most famously used by all three astronauts during the Apollo 11 mission in 1969. This included Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin, who made history as the first humans to walk on the moon. And, of course, that made the Omega Speedmaster the first watch on the moon.

This historic event cemented the Omega Speedmaster as a legend and earned it its well-known nickname the “Moonwatch”. The exact reference to make it onto the moon’s surface was reference 105.012, boasting the very same 42mm wide steel case, black chronograph dial with luminous inserts, and thin tachymeter bezel familiar to all modern-day references. It also featured a manual-winding movement and vintage Hesalite crystal.

It’s no surprise that as the years went on, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch collection expanded to include new variations and technological improvements. One of the biggest upgrades was the introduction of the “Professional” designation, which further solidified its connection to space missions and professional use.

In the 1990s and early 2000s, Omega continued innovating while carefully respecting the Speedmaster’s heritage. Maintaining all the core characteristics of the original designs, such as the Speedmaster Professional “Moonphase” and the Speedmaster Reduced, brought new functionality and design variations to the collection. The brand also introduced the “Co-Axial” movement for enhanced precision and durability.

Sure, the original reference 105.012 will always be the “true” Moonwatch, but the models that have come after it are just as important. They are all deeply rooted in the original’s history, boasting all the essential features that make an Omega Speedmaster an Omega Speedmaster. They have just embraced modern advancements to ensure the design remains a relevant and sought-after timepiece.

Omega Speedmaster: In-Depth Review

As we’ve mentioned, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional has been engineered in a number of different styles, but more often than not, they have a set few characteristics in common. Here are some of the essential features you can expect to find in an Omega Speedmaster.

A 42mm Steel Case

Other than a handful of the first Omega Speedmaster watches released (including the first reference CK2915 made for the racetrack), every true Moonwatch since has had a case size of 42mm. The inaugural models came in a little smaller – something typical of the time – measuring to 38.6mm and later 39.7mm. But in 1969, with the creation of the Omega Speedmaster that would make it onto the moon’s surface, the lyre lugs and crown guards increased the diameter of the watch to 42mm. And it’s been that way ever since.

Similarly, the rest of the dimensions have barely changed. The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional typically boasts a thickness of around 13mm, a lug-to-lug of 47mm, and a lug width of 20mm. It’s a really nice set of dimensions, allowing the watch to suit wrists anywhere from 6 inches and above. There are other Speedmasters that are smaller, but it’s worth noting these aren’t classed as “Moonwatches”.

The overall case shape is another permanent fixture, with the turned lug design borrowed from the classic Speedmaster’s silhouette. In the same way, the crown and chronograph pushers are placed in a traditional position, all recessed into the case just slightly for added durability. The crown is non-screwed down but does still warrant a 50-meter water-resistant rating.

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional is most commonly found with a classic stainless steel case. The finishing is beautiful; it has brushed sides and high polish on the case and lug tops. There are also a handful of Moonwatch references in the Swiss watchmaker’s current collection made using their Sedna™, Canopus, or Moonshine Gold, a proprietary alloy developed by Omega.

The material offers a rich, long-lasting gold color and looks particularly stunning with the Speedmaster’s classic black dial. In some cases, gold is used for the entire case and bracelet, and in other instances, Omega has combined Sedna or Moonshine Gold with stainless steel for a cool two-toned finish. Although these models are beautiful for me, the classic stainless steel Speedmaster will always be my favorite.

A Black Tachymeter Bezel

Possibly one of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional’s most defining characteristics is its tachymeter bezel. Most other space-inspired watches, or even tool watches for that matter, don’t have a tachymeter bezel because it’s used for measuring speed, typically related to the speed of a car on the racetrack. But since the Speedmaster was originally created for motorsport enthusiasts, the tachymeter continues to be a nod to its racing roots and a nice reminder that while the Speedmaster may have reached the moon, it was born on the racetrack.

The Speedmaster’s bezel is set on the outskirts of the case, kept nice and thin with a black aluminum insert. It has a wonderful glossy finish and is printed with the tachymeter scale in white. Some Omega Speedmaster Moonwatches feature a dot over the numeral for 90. Often referred to as “DO90”, this feature is a hallmark of early Speedmaster models and is highly prized by collectors for its historical accuracy and connection to the original design.

A Monochromatic Dial

Of course, the most famous dial color for the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional is the classic black display. Just like the reference to walk the Moon, most modern-day iterations of the design have a black matte finish with white printed markers and a slightly stepped architecture, which you’ll notice when you look at the minute track more closely. The three register displays for the chronograph and small seconds are also sunken for a nice touch of legibility.

The dial hardware isn’t oversized in any way but still offers a good amount of legibility. This is largely due to the contrasting white printing used on many markers and the luminescent material placed on the hands. The iconic Omega Speedmaster Professional logo is always positioned at 12 o’clock.

There are some other dial colors available in the Speedmaster collection, including green, white, silver, and gold. The white-dialed reference 310.30.42.50.04.001 is a personal favorite and a nice twist on the classic black display, switching around the colors for the surface and markers for a bright, legible finish.

Hesalite or Sapphire Crystal?

Understandably, while some of the original Omega Speedmaster watches featured domed Hesalite crystal glass, most of the modern re-interpretations have boasted contemporary scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. But there have been a handful of modern references that have brought back the Hesalite crystal for good reason. One of said references is 310.30.42.50.01.001.

Despite Hesalite being more prone to scratches, it does give the Omega Speedmaster a distinctly vintage finish featuring a higher dome and a very cool engraving of the Omega logo at the center of the crystal – a very small detail that’s fun to spot if you can! Meanwhile, sapphire crystal, although still slightly domed, does have a lower profile on the wrist, plus enhanced scratch resistance.

Ultimately, the choice between Hesalite and sapphire crystals will depend on your personal preferences. Those traditionalists who want an Omega Speedmaster as close to the original Moonwatch as possible will prefer those with Hesalite. On the flip side, those of you who prioritize durability will prefer scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.

It’s worth noting there is a small price difference between the two, with the Hesalite models retailing from $6,600 on the solid bracelet and the sapphire models priced at $7,600. The Hesalite references also have closed case backs engraved with the traditional Moonwatch message, while the sapphire crystal iterations keep things modern with a matching sapphire crystal exhibition back that lets you admire the movement inside.

Manual Winding Movements

Another notable change to the Omega Speedmaster over the years is the movement found within. Of course, as the years have gone by, Omega has drastically advanced its technologies for the better, but what’s really impressive is that although the technology has improved, the overall visuals and functionality have remained much the same.

Like the original, the majority of Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional watches you’ll see are powered by manual-winding movements. These are the mechanical movements that require physical rewinding via the crown every few days. 

One of the most used manual calibers in today’s current collection is the Omega 3861. This is a movement with a 50-hour power reserve, an anti-magnetic silicon balance spring, a free-sprung balance, chronograph complication, and chronometer certification.

It’s also one of just a few manual winding movements from Omega that uses a co-axial escapement. This is an escapement system that utilizes three pallets rather than the traditional two, which ultimately reduces sliding friction and increases service interval time. The Omega 3861 is also certified as a Master Chronometer by METAS, which includes more tests and higher standards for accuracy than chronometer certification alone.

Those who opt for an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with an exhibition case back will also be able to admire the architecture of the manual movement inside, which is laid out a lot like the original. It has rhodium plating and Geneva stripes across the bridges. Plus, you can spot some of the 26 jewels.

Leather, Rubber or Metal Strap Options

There are a handful of straps available to order with the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. A popular choice is the black rubber strap, which on the surface appears just like any standard black rubber strap with a stainless steel folding buckle, but when off the wrist, you’ll notice the underside is uniquely textured. The reverse surface has a stunning texture reminiscent of the surface of the moon. It’s a really nice touch and a nod to the Speedmaster’s iconic history.

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch can also be ordered on a variety of comfortable NATO straps in several colors. Straps like this really help to elevate its vintage aesthetic. For a dressier look, you might prefer one of the leather straps, whether that be one of the smooth calfskin leather bands, shiny alligator leather, or perforated leather straps.

My personal favorite strap for the Omega Speedmaster is, without surprise, the metal bracelet. The five-row, pebble-like shape of the bracelet links is really beautiful, and the finishing varies depending on whether you opt for a Hesalite or sapphire crystal model. Those with Hesalite crystal are fully brushed, while the sapphire crystal references lean into its modern positioning by including polishing on the two smallest inner links.

Most Popular Omega Speedmaster Models

Now that you know all about the Omega Speedmaster, its history, and some of the defining characteristics that make a Speedmaster a true Speedmaster Moonwatch, you’re probably wondering which, out of the several models on the market, are the most popular. Without further ado, here’s the long-awaited answer…

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronograph (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002)

Of all the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional watches on this list, this is the one I’d choose for myself. Why? Because this is the closest to the original as it gets. You’re getting the same black tachymeter bezel, 42mm wide steel case, a matte black dial with white printing and lume, and a manual winding movement. It also arrives on the five-row link bracelet and has the sapphire crystal glass on both the front and back. It’s a beautiful watch through and through, and anyone looking to start a watch collection off with a bang can’t go wrong with this, trust me! Price: $8,000

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronometer Moonshine Gold Green Dial on Bracelet   (ref. 310.60.42.50.10.001)

If you love the history behind the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch but you also want something a little dressier – or even a touch flashy -, we recommend the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronometer Moonshine Gold Green Dial. This stunning watch arrives fully engineered from the brand’s 18ct Moonshine gold – which includes the case back, crown, pushers, and bracelet. In contrast, the dial is colored in a deep emerald green to match the green ceramic bezel ring with an Omega Ceragold™ tachymeter scale. Price: $42,600

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional White Dial (ref. 310.30.42.50.04.001)

I already mentioned previously that the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional White Dial was another of my favorites. I love how a simple swap of the black and white colors on the dial has transformed a classic looking chronograph into an obvious motorsport-inspired piece. It’s incredibly legible thanks to the jet black hands and numerals and maintains its 42mm wide diameter, steel case, black tachymeter bezel and the 3861 manual winding movement. Price: $8,100.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronometer Black Dial on Bracelet (ref. 310.60.42.50.01.001)

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional under reference 310.60.42.50.01.001 is another luxury option for those wanting something with a bit of oomph. This time around, it pairs its matte black dial with beautiful rose gold hardware and a matching Sedna™ Gold case and bracelet. I’ve always thought rose gold and black look great together on watches, and this is a perfect example. It’s dressy and sophisticated, yet it still manages to uphold the sporty personality of the Speedmaster name. Price: $42,600.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronograph Canopus Gold (ref. 310.60.42.50.02.001)

Last but certainly not least, we have an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional engineered from the Swiss watchmaker’s patented Canopus Gold™ material. This is one of those metals you have to see in person to appreciate. As well as being 100% noble, it boasts a beautiful brilliance and whiteness that makes it stand out against traditional white gold and stainless steel watches. The inclusion of the stepped silver dial gives it an almost completely monochromatic look, with just the black tachymeter scale standing out in a different hue. It’s another beautiful watch worthy of any watch collector’s wish list. Price: $55,500.

Should You Buy An Omega Speedmaster?

I’m not sure there’s an easier question to answer. Yes, you should absolutely buy an Omega Speedmaster – especially those in the dedicated Moonwatch collection. If you’re a watch enthusiast who appreciates brilliant history and exquisite craftsmanship, there are very few watches that will beat this. For many, it’s a “holy grail” watch, completing collections new and old. From its legendary journey to the moon to its mass of impressive technology inside, the Speedmaster will appeal to anyone with a passion for horology.

Omega Speedmaster Pricing & Availability

With there being so many Omega Speedmaster Moonwatches out here, the prices can vary depending on exactly which model you have in mind. The stainless steel references typically retail from around $6,600 while some of the full 18ct gold references with diamonds can sit with a price tag as large as $60,200. If budget is your issue, it’s definitely worth checking out authorized retailers like Exquisite Timepieces for the latest offers or heading to the second-hand market where you can find steel Speedys for around $4,000.

Conclusion

We hope this deep dive into the Omega Speedmaster has explained exactly why this watch is a true legend in the world of horology. Sure, the Rolex Submariner and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak are nice, but none of those can claim to be the first watch to set foot on the moon. And despite it being several decades old, it’s clear the Omega Speedmaster continues to captivate, both with its exciting history and its incredible design. This is a daily-beater watch with a story and plenty of high-tech to boot. What more could you want?

Unless you were living on, say, the moon in March 2022, you probably heard the pronouncement, “People of Earth, the MoonSwatch has landed.”

After tantalizing teasers leading up to launch day, the Swatch Group and family brand Omega collaborated to pull off one of the strongest power flexes in horological history. They launched an 11-member lineup of colorful quartz wristwatches fashioned after the iconic Omega Speedmaster Professional, which, just in case you haven’t heard the news, was “THE FIRST WATCH WORN ON THE MOON” per the manual wind medallion caseback.

The resulting tsunami inundated not only the watch world but broader culture as well. Thousands who might not have otherwise given analog watches the time of day suddenly camped out overnight and waited in lines stretching several city blocks for a “moonshot” chance at picking up one of the cleverly conceived chronographs that aim to inspire dreams of “Missions to”—or in the case of Earth, “on”—the most recognizable celestial bodies in our Solar System.

In this review, I will cover MoonSwatch mania and the (many!) models while providing a few of my own reflections on owning—and enjoying—two MoonSwatches (Missions to Pluto and Earth) plus a “real” Speedmaster Moonwatch, the manual wind Caliber 3861.

About the Omega X Swatch MoonSwatch Watches

There are enough aliases of the “official” name—the Omega X Swatch Bioceramic MoonSwatch—to fill an F.B.I “Most Wanted Poster”: Omega MoonSwatch, Swatch MoonSwatch, Omega Swatch Moonwatch, Omega X Swatch Speedmaster, etc. Thankfully, the cultural hive mind seems to have settled on simply “MoonSwatch”.

So, what exactly is it: an inexpensive Speedmaster cutting against Omega’s upscale grain, a Swatch continuing the brand’s decades-old tradition of providing fashion-forward and affordable watches, or some “love child” of the two? The answer is pretty fuzzy, leaving it up to individual wearers to define the watch and the experience it creates in their own terms.

Regardless of confusion over its name or reason for being, the MoonSwatch’s core design elements shout, “Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch!” It is a chronograph with 2 pushers and 3 subdials whose case shape and dimensions are almost identical to “the real thing”.

But instead of stainless steel, precious metal, all-ceramic, or titanium, the MoonSwatch case is composed of what Swatch has termed “Bioceramic”, an extremely lightweight plastic-ceramic hybrid that makes for a comfortable wearing experience and plays well with the technicolors necessary to depict a wide range of variegated celestial bodies.

Swatch includes heavily branded, NATO-style VELCRO® straps similar to the ones Apollo astronauts used back in the day to color compliment the cases and dials.

History of Omega X Swatch MoonSwatch Watches

The Swatch brand was founded by a group of Swiss watch executives and engineers in the early 1980s who believed that a line of affordable and accessible analog plastic watches could counter the widespread popularity of digital watches and help regain market share that had been lost to Japanese companies like Seiko and Citizen during the “Quartz Crisis”. 

The team envisioned inexpensive battery-powered watches with colorful and fun designs so affordable they could be disposable or purchased in multiples for a variety of occasions. While many recognize the name as a contraction of “Swiss watch”, “S” also denotes “second” watch, reinforcing the idea of reasonable pricing and replaceability. 

Swatch opened their first store in Zurich in 1983 with twelve original models and soon gained widespread popularity. In 1985, new CEO Nicolas Hayek, Sr., and a group of investors took over the brand and created a holding company called Société de Microélectronique et d’Horlogerie, aka SMH. 

Swatch continued to pump out new eye-popping models and open stores worldwide. The name was so synonymous with fun and financial success that Hayek eventually renamed SMH the Swatch Group Ltd. in 1998.

Over the years, Swatch Group acquired other more longstanding luxury watch companies such as Omega, Longines, Tissot, Breguet, Blancpain, et al., a recipe for success that enabled all involved to weather the “Quartz Crisis” storm. 

The Swatch brand also became synonymous with creative collaborations with artists, fashion designers, and large museums such as the Louvre in Paris and the Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art (MOMA) in New York City that boosted their bold and colorful catalog.

However, Swatch teaming up with another family member, like luxury manufacturer Omega, caught the watch world off guard. Declining Swatch sales figures, the Covid pandemic and the postponement of the 2020 Olympics (Omega is the” Official Timekeeper” and counts on the worldwide exposure), and a strategic aim of generating interest in the “real Moonwatch” among a younger demographic who might someday have the disposable income to purchase one may have all factored into the bold decision. 

Swatch Group saw record profits in 2023 and increased interest in the more expensive Omega Speedmaster, although there has been a drop in sales so far in 2024, primarily due to decreased demand for luxury goods in Asian markets. 

In March 2022, the MoonSwatches were available for sale only in selected brick-and-mortar stores (the initial promise of “online sales soon” was quickly withdrawn). 

This unleashed a worldwide “drop culture” frenzy, including long lines of sometimes rowdy crowds, instant scarcity of an “accessible” Swatch “intended for the masses”, and flippers demanding insane prices in exchange for instant gratification on the secondary market. 

Currently, the original eleven MoonSwatches are relatively more available for those who can visit one of the selected Swatch stores, and secondary market prices are much closer to MSRP for many models.

However, Swatch continues to launch “new missions”. The original eleven models that dropped in 2022 doubled in 2023 with rapid-fire releases of limited edition “Mission to Moonshine™ Gold” models. Two “Mission to Moonphase” (aka “Snoopy”) models took off in early 2024, and three more “Mission to Earth” pieces appeared in June 2024. 

As of this writing, a limited edition “Mission to the Super Blue Moonphase” is set to blast off for sale August 1-19, 2024 (only after 5:00 pm . . .) at select Swatch stores in honor of that month’s “blue moon” (the collective groan you just heard is that of Swatch store sales associates worldwide).

When it comes to MoonSwatches, you have to count up, not down. That makes 28 references in 2.5 years. “Brand dilution” and “burnout?” Swatch executives simply smile and reply, “Here, hold my beer.” Like the adorable and highly replicating alien Tribbles in the original Star Trek TV series, MoonSwatches just keep on coming.

Omega X Swatch MoonSwatch: An In-Depth Review

Don’t worry—I’m not reviewing all 28 (and counting) MoonSwatch models. But I will cover the essentials that apply to all so you can decide if the MoonSwatch is the rocket you want to hitch a ride on. Let’s light this candle!

Case Sizes and Materials

MoonSwatch design language closely follows that of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch itself. The diameter is 42mm, lug-to-lug distance 47.3mm, and thickness 13.2mm, including the domed acrylic crystal, which is embedded centrally with a small, translucent “S”, just like the “Ω” in the Speedmaster Pro. The lugs are “lyre” shaped, and their width is a strap-friendly 20mm.

The case shape is asymmetrical, thicker on the right side to accommodate the pushers. Paired with the round, 39.8mm bezel, the MoonSwatch has a smaller-than-expected look and fit for its 42mm diameter. 

There is a tachymeter scale with a matte finish on the bezel (“Dot over 90” for added authenticity!), and a very clever and colorful image of each celestial body on the battery cover on the back of the case. The crown contains a molded “Ω X S” stamp and the pushers are slightly further apart than those of the Omega Moonwatch to accommodate the quartz movement.

Swatch’s coinage of the name “Bioceramic” for the case material has been one of the biggest sources of confusion about the collection. The company describes the material to be 2/3 zirconia ceramic and 1/3 biosourced plastic derived from castor seed oil, leading some to wonder if it’s cheap ceramic or glorified plastic. 

As the owner of two MoonSwatches, my take is that it’s more like “plastic-plus”, lightweight for sure, but with a sturdy and premium feel. The case’s matte finish seems to “hold” the color well; I have one tiny chip on the bezel edge of my Mission to Pluto (“honest wear” only, no defect), and I can affirm the color is no mere veneer.

The MoonSwatch’s broad color palette includes vibrant yellow, bright red, light pink, and a pale, “Tiffany blue”, as well as more subdued and traditional hues such as black, gray, brown, and beige. There were reports of “color bleed” on wearers’ wrists from the battery cover images early on, but Swatch apparently fixed the problem in subsequent production batches.

Dials

Swatch takes a little more artistic license with MoonSwatch dials, but the general layout is still unmistakably based on its iconic predecessor. There are three subdials, but instead of the 3,6,9 positioning of the Speedy Pro, the MoonSwatch locates them at 2,6,10 to accommodate the quartz movement. 

Active seconds are displayed at 6, chronograph timing minutes at 10 (both with markings in 5 unit increments), and 1/10 timing seconds at 2. Subdials are round and inset from the dial face, adding depth, and added artwork on some models, such as Saturn and Jupiter, provide extra aesthetic effect.

Indices and markings are essentially the same as the Omega Moonwatch aside from color, including 1/3 second lines, even though the chronograph timing seconds hand ticks once per second. 

There are two dots at 12, just like the original. Branding on the dial helpfully reminds you of the watch’s “mixed heritage” and forms a reverse triangle to the subdials, which adds balance to the appearance. A circular line in the peripheral dial gives the illusion of the Speedy Pro’s “step down” to the seconds track even though the MoonSwatch dial is flat.

The handsets of the main dial and subdials have the same “stick” shapes and “spear & diamond” timing seconds of the Moonwatch, with the exception of Mission to Mars, which gives users a couple of playful red spaceships at 10 and 2. 

The hands are lit with Super-LumiNova®, but still, keep your expectations low. Just like the Speedy Pro, there’s enough lume brightness to tell the time but not enough to impress your friends or replace your cell phone flashlight.

Dial colors differ by model and are part of a scheme that includes the case and strap. Whether the colors complement or compete with each other will depend on your tastes and preferences.

Movement

The movement is a quartz chronograph with hours, minutes, active seconds, 60 timing minutes, and seconds, plus 1/10 seconds—we know that much even though Swatch doesn’t outright identify it. However, most believe the most likely movement is an ETA G10.212 without a date complication.

As such, it is more accurate than a mechanical Caliber 3861, even with the latter’s +5 seconds/day Master Chronometer certification. We just don’t know exactly how much more precise, given the movement’s cloaked identity. Caliber Corner deduces it to be +/- 10 seconds per year. My own very unofficial experience with my two MoonSwatches has been a very tight +1-2 seconds/month.

I learned something cool about the movement that I didn’t know until I did the research for this review—the MoonSwatch has a split timer that functions as a sort of “rattrapante-lite” without an additional chronograph timing seconds hand. 

When timing an event, if you want a split or lap time, you can press the bottom pusher to get minutes, seconds, and 1/10 seconds. Press the bottom pusher again, and the timing seconds hand “catches up” to the elapsed time since the start. Press the top pusher when the event is over, and you have your total elapsed time up to 59:59.90. Now that’s a feature that even the Apollo astronauts didn’t have!

Straps

Each MoonSwatch comes with a heavily branded, color-coordinated, nylon NATO-style VELCRO® strap similar to the ones Apollo astronauts used to secure their Speedy Pros on the outside of their space suit sleeves. 

For the mere earthbound rest of us, the strap has the advantage of precise fitting and “on the fly” adjustment if your wrist swells during the day. From my personal experience, the strap is a little stiff at first, but it becomes more flexible with time. Also, the strap can get a little sweaty underneath in hot and humid weather.

Fortunately, the lug width is 20mm, so the MoonSwatch fits the definition of a “strap monster”. I enjoy wearing my Mission to Earth on a traditional double pass blue and green fabric NATO strap and my Mission to Pluto on a curved, integrated gray rubber strap. There is a plethora of aftermarket options available if you want a break from the OEM strap.

Most Popular Omega X Swatch MoonSwatch Models

Facts: 1) All MoonSwatches appeal to some; 2) Some MoonSwatches appeal to more than others. Here are five of the most popular.

Omega X Swatch Mission to the Moon

What can you say about the MoonSwatch, which is named after and most closely aligned with the “OG”? Mission to the Moon is the one that everyone wants to get their hands on and may be willing to camp all night for. 

True to its black and steel gray roots, the Mission to the Moon has “The Right Stuff” to produce a 1960s Apollo vibe. Even the hour indices have a hint of faux patina to amplify the retro groove. This model is so old-school NASA, I bet Buzz Aldrin wears one on each wrist.

Omega X Swatch Mission to Mars

With its bright red case, white dial and strap, and red retro rockets, Mission to Mars has the most eye-catching contrast if that’s your jam. Speedy enthusiasts immediately recognized the nod to the Omega Speedmaster Alaska Project, a quirky and innovative limited-edition release of 2008 which fused a standard Moonwatch with a ginormous red “heat shield” designed to fend off the extreme temperatures of the “Dark side of the Moon” (Earth’s natural satellite, not the Pink Floyd album). If you want someone to spot your watch and strike up a conversation, this one is a go-to.

Omega X Swatch Mission to Uranus

Despite, or possibly because of, the highly likely Beavis and Butt-Head bathroom humor, Mission to Uranus has been one of the most sought-after MoonSwatches. Of course, it may also have something to do with the fact that this pale-blue case, white strap tribute to the Greek god of the sky features one of the most popular colors of recent years in watch circles. You can call it whatever you want—pale, sky, powder, “Tiffany”, or “Carolina”—this shade of blue is hot, and Mission to Uranus is full of it.

Omega X Swatch Mission to the Moon MoonShine™ Gold

In 2023, MoonSwatch Mania came dangerously close to “jumping the shark” and being eaten alive. From March through December, Swatch fed the hype machine with ten extremely limited edition Mission to the Moon Moonshine™ Gold models (for sale one day only in each month) which all had a coating of Omega’s proprietary yellow MoonShine™ Gold alloy on the chronograph timing seconds hand. 

Monthly tweaks to the gold veneer included the addition of secret numbers and messages, pink highlights, flowers, snowflakes, Swiss flags, lollipops, barley grain, and strawberries. And that’s not even counting the Mission to Neptune Moonshine™ Gold edition that was released in August. Many asked: Why? Had MoonSwatch, like Icarus, flown too close to the sun?

Omega X Swatch Mission to the Moonphase

The answer came in early 2024. Swatch released both the monochromatic white and black Mission to the Moonphase models featuring a moon phase calendar complication replacing the 1/10 seconds dial at 2, and Snoopy, everyone’s favorite canine-naut, reclining on a rotating lunar disc. 

Just like the Apollo 13 crew, Swatch saved the ship. Suddenly, Mission to the Moonphase became the new “must-have” MoonSwatch. There were more coming, of course, but let’s just close our eyes and enjoy Snoopy for a moment, shall we?

Should You Buy an Omega X Swatch MoonSwatch?

Some watch enthusiasts continue to sniff at MoonSwatches and refuse to buy a plastic-ceramic “toy” homage to the iconic Speedy Pro. But I own two MoonSwatches, plus the most current Omega Moonwatch manual-wind Caliber 3861, and I enjoy them all for what they are. 

On a trip to New York City in 2023, I managed several trips to the Times Square Swatch Store and scored 5 total, and I enjoyed giving my thirtysomething watch enthusiast sons each one just like I used to bring them home Legos and Playmobil sets from work trips. Take it from me: if you want to live a little and have some fun, go with the flow and queue up for a MoonSwatch when the opportunity arises.

Omega X MoonSwatch Pricing and Availability

The original eleven models and the Mission to the Moon Moonshine™ Gold editions cost $270 retail and the Mission to the MoonPhase models $310. Swatch continues to sell new models only in select Swatch stores. 

Secondary market prices for most new models have come down considerably and are currently much closer to retail and even lower for preowned pieces in many cases. However, there is still a substantial premium on harder-to-obtain pieces like Mission to the Moon and MoonShine™ Gold models.

Conclusion

Current CEO Nick Hayek, Jr. has followed in his father’s space boot-sized footsteps and aimed high, pointing the Swatch Group toward the stars. The Blancpain X Swatch Fifty Fathoms releases of 2023-24 are surely a sign of more collaborations to come. Love it or hate it, one has to admit the MoonSwatch was “one giant leap for ‘watchkind,’” and the universe will never be the same again.

If you’ve ever dreamed of bringing together your love of luxury timepieces with a lucrative side hustle, then watch affiliate programs might just be what you’re looking for. Affiliate programs can be a game-changer, offering you a unique opportunity to earn a commission by promoting products you genuinely love and believe in. And because you love them, promoting them is made all the easier.

For watch fanatics like us, it’s a golden chance to turn passion into profit. You’ll be able to share your favorite brands and models with fellow watch lovers while earning a handsome reward for every sale made through your unique affiliate link. Whether you’re a seasoned blogger or just getting started in the online world, these programs will help you build your income stream and in turn, a successful affiliate marketing empire.

But which is the best high-paying watch affiliate program? We’ve done the research for you. Here are the top 12 watch affiliate programs you should be a part of.

12 Established Watch Affiliate Programs

Exquisite Timepieces

Exquisite Timepieces is easily one of the biggest players in the luxury watch retail business. They’ve been in the business for over 25 years and have a stellar fleet of 5-star reviews across all platforms. They are also an authorized reseller for 60+ luxury watch brands including Omega, Hublot, Longines and so many more.

In my opinion, the reason they deserve the number one spot because most other watch affiliate programs fall into one of these two categories:

1. They are considered gray market dealers or marketplaces that are not officially authorized resellers of the brands they sell. Hence, customers have less trust in them, so you’ll find yourself with a lower conversion rate.
2. Some manufacturers also have their own affiliate programs in which you have to sign up with each of them separately. There’s also less variety for customers.

Exquisite Timepieces falls into neither of these categories, being an authorized reseller of all the luxury watches on their website.

Overview:

• Commission: Up to 6%
• Cookie Window: 7 Days
• Affiliate Program URL: https://www.exquisitetimepieces.com/affiliate.html

Invicta

The Invicta Stores affiliate program is another great watch affiliate program, being a watchmaker themselves with a reputation for creating bold, high-quality timepieces. Invicta watches are well-known around the world, so attracting buyers shouldn’t be too difficult.

The watchmaker was founded in 1837, so they have a long history of creating watches with brave design DNA and exceptional technology. They believe in combining Swiss precision with innovative features to make wearability effortlessly, all while prioritizing style and reliability.

Plus, the Invicta Stores affiliate program provides you access to easy-to-use marketing materials and dedicated support so there’s no excuse you can’t succeed. You’ll even have a chance to promote their best-selling collections like the Invicta Bolt, Pro Diver, Subaqua, Venom and Reserve as well as some of their limited, hard-to-find arrivals.

Overview:

• Commission: Up to 5%
• Cookie Window: 30 Days
• Affiliate Program URL: https://invictastores.com/affiliate-signup

Overstock

Another way to boost your affiliate income with a well-established watch retailer is by joining Overstock’s affiliate program. Most of you probably know Overstock as a retailer of electronics and computer tech, but since their founding in 1999, they have expanded far beyond. Their range of products now includes everything from furniture to home décor, clothing, jewelry and of course, watches.

In fact, they boast an impressive inventory of over 10,725 watches including everything from affordable daily beaters to more high-end luxury models. They even have a nice selection of pre-owned Rolexes. The program promises high conversion rates and offers solid support, so you can enjoy competitive earnings while feeling comfortable working with a brand with a well-known reputation. They also often have several seasonal deals and discounts for you to promote for an added boost to your conversions.

Overview:

• Commission: Up to 3%
• Cookie Window: 14 Days
• Affiliate Program URL: https://help.overstock.com/help/s/article/Affiliate-Program

Spinnaker

Another watchmaker with their own dedicated watch affiliate program is Spinnaker. Despite being a relatively youthful brand, having only been founded in 2015, Spinnaker has an outstanding history and a range of watches that rival some of the world’s oldest watchmakers. They are best known for their collections inspired by the spirit of adventure and maritime heritage, often filled with diving watches and chronographs.

Every Spinnaker watch reflects the brand’s commitment to quality and style, promising high levels of robustness and functionality with elegant aesthetics. So, whether you choose to promote the rugged durability of their dive watches or the sophisticated look of their vintage-inspired models, you’ll be showcasing products that appeal to a wide range of watch enthusiasts. As an affiliate, you’ll benefit from Spinnaker’s strong brand identity and competitive commission rates. They also promise a user-friendly platform, and dedicated support to help you maximize your earnings.

Overview:

• Commission: Up to 10%
• Cookie Window: 10 Days
• Affiliate Program URL: https://spinnaker-watches.co.uk/pages/spinnaker-rakuten-affiliate-program-page

Citizen

When you’ve got a watchmaker that has been creating timepieces for more than 100 years, you can feel assured that promoting their watches through their dedicated affiliate program is going to be easy. That’s certainly the case with Citizen, who founded in 1918, have built a reputation for blending timeless craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology. Their diverse collections cater to a wide audience, making them perfect for your promotions.

The Eco-Drive series, for example, stands out with its sustainable design, powered by sunlight and eliminating the need for battery replacements. This innovative approach appeals to environmentally conscious consumers who seek both style and sustainability. Another highlight of the Citizen collections is the Tsuyosa, a colorful mechanical watch retailing for an insanely affordable price. Their affiliate program offers competitive commissions and support, making it an excellent choice for those looking to partner with a trusted and iconic brand.

Overview:

• Commission: Up to 2%
• Cookie Window: 30 Days
• Affiliate Program URL: https://affilimate.com/programs/citizen-watch-affiliate-program/

Bob’s Watches

If you’re wanting to promote only pre-owned timepieces, then the Bob’s Watches affiliate program is a fantastic opportunity. Founded in 1999, Bob’s Watches has built a solid reputation as a trusted source for buying, selling, and trading luxury watches, specializing in pre-owned Rolex, Omega, Cartier and other high-end brands. They pride themselves on their transparent pricing, exceptional customer service, and extensive inventory, including some of the most sought-after models like the Rolex Submariner and Daytona.

As an affiliate, you’ll have the advantage of promoting a brand with a strong market presence and a loyal customer base. The Bob’s Watches affiliate program offers attractive commission rates, a user-friendly affiliate dashboard, and robust marketing support to help you succeed. Just be aware that their cookie window is just 1 day, so it’s important to capture your audience’s interest quickly and encourage immediate action to maximize your affiliate earnings.

Overview:

• Commission: Up to 5%
• Cookie Window: 1 Day
• Affiliate Program URL: https://affilimate.com/programs/bobs-watches-affiliate-program/

Jomashop

Jomashop is another prominent online retailer known for its affiliate program and impressive selection of luxury goods. They specialize, not only in watches, but designer handbags, fine jewelry, and other luxury accessories. Jomashop offers a broad range of products from some of the most sought-after brands in the industry. Their watch collection includes prestigious names such as Breitling, Omega, Rolex, and Panerai, catering to enthusiasts and collectors who seek both style and savings.

Their affiliate program is a great opportunity for marketers to promote a well-respected retailer while earning commissions. Affiliates benefit from competitive commission rates and access to a variety of marketing materials, including banners and links. With a 7-day cookie duration, you have ample time to capture sales and maximize your earnings. However, it’s important to note that Jomashop operates as a gray market dealer so they are not authorized resellers of the watches they sell, which may affect warranty and service options. Keep this in mind when promoting their products to ensure your audience is well-informed.

Overview:

• Commission: Up to 5%
• Cookie Window: 7 Days
• Affiliate Program URL: https://affilimate.com/programs/bobs-watches-affiliate-program/

Ashford

Another leading online retailer specializing in luxury watches, fine jewelry, and high-end accessories is Ashford. They offer customers impressive savings on premium brands, and marketers like me and you a relatively impressive affiliate scheme. They boast an extensive collection of watches including models from renowned watchmakers like Rolex, Omega, Cartier, and Tag Heuer. Their diverse range includes both classic and contemporary styles, catering to a wide array of tastes and preferences.

Affiliates benefit from competitive commission rates and a generous 30-day cookie window, allowing ample time to track sales and optimize earnings. The program offers comprehensive support, including access to a variety of marketing materials, banners, and links to help you effectively promote Ashford’s products. Again, Ashford does operate as a gray market retailer so make note they are not authorized resellers of the brands they carry.

Overview:

• Commission: Up to 6%
• Cookie Window: 45 Days
• Affiliate Program URL: https://www.ashford.com/affiliates

Watchgang

Since its inception in 2016, Watch Gang has redefined the watch-buying experience with its unique subscription box service. Inspired by the founder’s personal story of inheriting a cherished 1953 vintage Rolex from his father when he passed, Watch Gang delivers a high-quality timepiece to your doorstep each month, offering exceptional value and excitement without the retail markup. Subscribers receive a carefully curated watch at a significant discount, along with the chance to win a brand-new Rolex every week—a thrilling bonus for watch enthusiasts.

As an affiliate, you’ll enjoy a straightforward and rewarding program with a flat commission of $27 per sale. This predictable income structure does allow you to forecast your earnings more accurately compared to percentage-based programs, but it does also limit you compared to other watch affiliate programs. But, with a generous 30-day cookie duration, you have ample time to convert leads into sales and maximize your affiliate revenue.

Overview:

• Commission: $27 per lead
• Cookie Window: 30 Days
• Affiliate Program URL: https://www.ascendpartner.com/affiliate/registration

Kay Jewelers

Founded in 1916, Kay Jewelers has established itself as a cornerstone in the jewelry industry, renowned for its extensive selection of fine jewelry and watches. With over a century of experience, Kay Jewelers specializes in delivering high-quality products that cater to a variety of tastes and occasions. Their impressive collection includes watch brands like Bulova, Citizen, and Tissot, offering customers a range of stylish and affordable timepieces.

The Kay Jewelers affiliate program presents a lucrative opportunity for marketers looking to promote a well-established brand. Affiliates benefit from a competitive commission structure, with up to 7% in commissions on sales. But sadly, there is just a cookie window of 1 day, so you’ll need to secure your followers’ interest quickly. The program does provide access to a variety of marketing resources, including banners, text links, and promotional offers.

Overview:

• Commission: Up to 7%
• Cookie Window: 1 Day
• Affiliate Program URL: https://www.kay.com/kay-affiliate-program

G-Shock

Surely promoting a watch brand that is dedicated to designing some of the world’s toughest watches will be a breeze. That’s certainly the case with G-Shock, a Japanese watchmaker who has revolutionized the watch industry with its innovative approach to durability and design. Created by Casio, G-Shock watches are renowned for their shock resistance, making them ideal for adventurous lifestyles. The brand’s commitment to resilience and functionality has resulted in iconic models such as the DW-5600, the GA-2100, and the MT-G series, each known for its robust build and cutting-edge features.

The G-Shock affiliate program offers a fantastic opportunity to promote a globally recognized brand. Affiliates can earn competitive commissions on sales and have access to a range of marketing materials, including banners and links. With a solid reputation for quality and innovation, G-Shock’s extensive collection provides a surplus of content to engage your audience.

Overview:

• Commission: Up to 2%
• Cookie Window: 7 Days
• Affiliate Program URL: https://gshock.casio.com/us/affiliates/

Fossil

Last up we have Fossil, a fashion watchmaker who has made a name for themselves by creating stylish, high-quality accessories since 1984.  They are best known for blending classic designs with modern functionality, creating watches that are both fashionable and reliable. Their portfolio features a range of popular models, including the iconic Fossil Gen 6 smartwatches, the classic Fossil Grant chronograph, and the versatile Fossil Defender series.

The Fossil affiliate program offers an excellent opportunity for marketers to promote a well-established and trendy brand. It’s their dream to collaborate with content creators who share their ‘everyday #FossilStyle’ on their platforms and social media! If this is you, Fossil invites you to discover their affiliate program where you’ll benefit from competitive commissions, access to a variety of marketing materials, and dedicated support to help you optimize your campaigns.

Overview:

• Commission: Up to 5%
• Cookie Window: 1 Day
• Affiliate Program URL: https://www.fossil.com/en-gb/asset_affiliate.html

Which is the BEST Watch Affiliate Program for You?

If you’re looking for the best watch affiliate program, we recommend choosing one that is an authorized retailer (such as Exquisite Timepieces) over gray market sellers or marketplaces. Why? Because authorized retailers provide the assurance of genuine products and manufacturer-backed warranties, making them a more reliable choice for your audience. Not only does this build trust, but it also adds to the overall credibility of your own promotions.

Another benefit of working with authorized dealers is the potential for higher commissions and more extended cookie windows—often starting from 5 days and going up from there. This means you can enjoy bigger payouts while giving your audience time to make purchasing decisions. For those of us passionate about watches, aligning with a retailer that offers a broad selection of prestigious brands also allows you to reach a diverse audience. The more variety you offer, the more potential for engagement and sales, ultimately boosting your earnings. Now go out there and find your perfect partner – good luck!

I grew up in Southwest Virginia and experienced four well-defined seasons. Little did I realize back then that I underestimated the numerous subtle nuances of a revolution around the sun and the “nature of time” it could convey.

Fortunately, Japanese culture, particularly Grand Seiko, has taught me more. The Grand Seiko SBGA413 “Shunbun” (Spring Equinox)  is both part of the Heritage Collection “Four Seasons” line initially launched in the U.S. (now available worldwide) and a larger group of the brand’s models that honor the Japanese concept of 4 main seasons with 6 phases for a total of 24 sekki.  

Also nicknamed the “Cherry Blossom”, the SBGA413 is an excellent example of the superb aesthetics and veneration for artisanal craftsmanship (Takumi) for which the Grand Seiko is known. Like its more well-known “Snowflake” older sibling, the Shunbun dial is breathtaking and mesmerizing, designed to depict the light pink cherry blossoms (Sakura) that quickly flower and fall in the Japanese spring.

But there is so much more to this time-measuring masterpiece than its pretty face. Let’s take a closer look at this amazing watch and gain a greater appreciation for its wholeness and beauty, both inside and out.

History

First, a short history lesson. In 1881, Japanese watchmaker Kintarō Hattori opened his watch and jewelry shop in Tokyo and named his growing brand “Seiko” in 1924. By the late 1950s, Seiko’s affordable and accessible watches were becoming popular worldwide. 

In 1960, the company launched the Grand Seiko sub-brand to produce luxury timepieces that would compete with their Swiss counterparts in both refinement and accuracy. In 2017, Grand Seiko became an independent brand.

Per the Grand Seiko website, the SBGA413 Shunbun is “a modern re-interpretation of the celebrated 62GS from 1967.” The 62GS contained Grand Seiko’s first automatic movement and was renowned for its no-bezel case and open, easy-to-read dial, multiple facets and striking angular lines on both the case and lugs, and highly polished (Zaratsu) surfaces, features which are still present and even more pronounced in the contemporary version.

Building on the successful 2005 launch of the “Snowflake,” the company’s first watch featuring a textured, artistic dial, Grand Seiko introduced the Heritage Collection’s “Four Seasons” line in 2019 in the United States only. 

However, in 2022, the company made the “Spring” SBGA413 and its sibling references—“Winter” (SBGA415), “Summer” (SBGH271), and “Fall” (SBGH273)—available online and in Grand Seiko boutiques around the world.

Case

The SBGA413’s “family resemblance” to the case of its ancestor 62GS is obvious at first glance in shape, dimensions, and finishing—but not material.

The case diameter is 40mm with a case thickness of 12.8mm (which includes the prominent, dual-curved, boxed sapphire crystal), and a lug width of 21mm coupled with a lug-to-lug distance of  46.5mm. 

Together with the case’s no-bezel open face and angular but curving shape and conforming lugs, the Shunbun’s “sweet spot” case specs make for a “right-sized” watch for a wide range of wrists (more on that later under “On-Wrist Experience”).

However, the case material is not your grandfather’s 62GS stainless steel. The Shunbun is instead made of grade 5 titanium, which is renowned for its strength, extreme light weight, and high scratch resistance.

Add to that a matching titanium bracelet (covered further under “Bracelets and Straps”), and you get an extremely comfortable, 3.5-ounce featherweight all-day wearing experience that would make you forget you’re even wearing a watch were it not for the way you keep staring at its stunning dial and fine finishing touches.

Although titanium has a slightly darker tone than stainless steel, Grand Seiko’s use of mirrored Zaratsu distortion-free hand polishing combined with brushed satin finishing on the multi-sided case and lugs makes the spaceship-strength material light up like a gleaming Samurai sword flashing in sunlight. 

While the case’s throwback style and superb finishing lean “dress”, its stamped, screw-down crown and 100-meter water resistance lend enough of a “sport” vibe to make it a versatile and potentially everyday timepiece. And if you still want grandad’s stainless steel after all, it is available in both the “Summer” and “Fall” versions.

The dual-curved, box-domed sapphire crystal is paired with a sapphire display caseback that showcases the innovative and ornate Grand Seiko Spring Drive. And therein lies one of the few legitimate pickable nits about the Shunbun: a large, gold Grand Seiko lion seal partially obscures the watch’s beautifully finished movement. Meant to honor the medallion caseback of the original 62GS, it was well-intended but overdone. 

Perhaps a less prominent and more transparent seal would still celebrate the brand’s heritage without hiding the intricate beauty and high-flying tech of the Spring Drive.

Dial

The well-executed SBGA413 case essentially serves as an ornate but still subordinate “picture frame” to hold the true star of the show: the highly textured, glistening, pale pink yet multichromatic Shunbun dial. It is intended to evoke the impression of the cherry blossoms that bloom and quickly fall around the Spring Equinox in Japan. 

Often the blooms fall onto water, swirl, and start to float away (like time itself), and the Japanese have a term for this also: hana-Ikada, which means “flower rafts”.

That’s an ambitious aim, but with a mix of old-school craftsmanship and proprietary modern techniques, Grand Seiko hits the mark. The dial’s texture is 3-dimensional, mimicking the undulations of a petal floating on water that look to me like “puffy” pale pink clouds etched with fine lines resembling an artist’s brushstrokes on a canvas.

Pink, that is, until they turn something else, like silver, white, or a combination of the three. The dial doesn’t just “play with the light” when you observe it from different angles. It orchestrates multiple wavelengths like a conductor does the many pieces of a symphony. With the Shunbun, you never know exactly which combination of colors you’re going to see, and it’s possible you may not even see the same one twice.

The dial is further festooned with a brushed satin Dauphine hour and minute handset and applied indices accented with Zaratsu polished edges that glint like sunlight on a stream’s surface. A gold-colored applied “GS” logo near 12 o’clock adds even more dimensionality. The black, printed “Grand Seiko” stamp and encircling minute track add contrast and character to the rippling, variegated surface.

A smooth, highly polished seconds hand, powered by the Spring Drive movement, sweeps more smoothly than any automatic ever could, converting the dial into a kinetic sculpture. The 72-hour power reserve indicator sits between the center of the dial and the 7- 8 o’clock positions. There’s a framed date window at 3. Both complications provide practicality and a pleasing touch of imbalance and interest to the serene, mostly symmetrical scene.

Like a masterpiece painting in a museum, no prose, poetry, or one-dimensional, high-resolution macro shot will ever do the Shunbun dial complete justice. You simply have to get hands-on and see it in person and from varying distances and angles to experience its full mesmerizing and transforming effect.

Movement

While the stunning “Spring” dial catches the eye and doesn’t let go, the brand’s innovative in-house Caliber 9R65 Spring Drive enables the Grand Seiko SBGA413 to not just match but even exceed the exacting timekeeping standards of its Swiss competitors.

Regarding the term “in-house”, let’s be clear: the 9R65 is not a lightly modified, off-the-shelf  ETA or Sellita movement like some Swiss brands use, but instead a groundbreaking, proprietary movement that combines both mechanical and electrical components to produce high-performance, quartz-like accuracy.

The Grand Seiko launched the Spring Drive in 1999, and since then the movement has gone through several iterations and improvements. The company officially calls the 9R65  version an “Automatic Spring Drive 3 Day” in reference to its robust 72-hour power reserve. 

It has hackable seconds and complications, including a quick set date and a power reserve indicator. There are 30 jewels, and the seconds hand oscillates at 32,768 Hz, which results in a gliding, shudder-free movement that, according to the company, symbolizes “the beautiful, natural flow of time.” The 9R65’s quartz-like accuracy is rated at an eye-popping +/- 1 second per day or +/- 15 seconds per month.

This amazing precision is accomplished by using a mainspring to store potential energy, which is released to power the movement, so it has no battery. Instead, it is hand-windable with a rotor for automatic winding just like a traditional mechanical movement. However, there is no escapement to control the speed of the energy release. 

In its place, Grand Seiko employs a “Tri-Synchro Regulator”, which, as the name implies, uses 3 types of energy to regulate the various components and processes that produce synchronicity:

1. The potential energy release from the mainspring;
2. A high-performance integrated circuit (IC) quartz oscillator that produces an electronic signal from the motion of the mainspring; and,
3. The transfer and synching of the electronic signal with a “magnetic brake” to control the spin of the glide wheel at exactly 8 revolutions per second which produces the amazing quartz-like accuracy.

If, like me, you’re neither an electrical engineer nor a certified watchmaker, you might need some illustrations and animations to help you get the full picture. Here’s a good video that does just that.

The 9R65 is not just a powerful and precise engine but also a work of fine art unto itself, as displayed through the sapphire caseback. Together with the beautiful textured, colorful dial, the result is the museum painting equivalent of two exquisite pieces of art on both the front and back of the frame. 

It is composed of over 200 colorful components that are hand-assembled. Polished parts and high-end finishing touches, such as diamond cut stripes, enhance the visual effect of the complex, intricate movement.

If Grand Seiko would just alter the display caseback and go a little lighter on the aforementioned brand lion logo in order to provide a less obstructed view of this showcase gem of a movement as they have in other models, the end result would be essentially perfect.

Bracelets and Straps

A watch with a finely manufactured and finished dial, case, and movement begs for a quality bracelet or strap to pair with it and bind the object of joy and satisfaction to the owner’s wrist.

The Grand Seiko Shunbun comes with a matching titanium bracelet with solid end links and a staggered alignment 3-link design with mostly satin brush finishing except for the edges of the center links, which are Zaratsu polished. 

That combination matches the case’s alternating finishes, and the polished edges contrast nicely with the rest of the bracelet. The bracelet is secured with a Grand Seiko logo stamped, single fold clasp with a twin-button release to prevent accidental opening. Rather than screws, the watch has a pin and collar system for link removal and sizing.  

Being titanium, it is naturally very lightweight, and it looks and feels like it has been manufactured with the same care and exacting standards as the rest of the watch.

However, if there is a “weak link” (heh) in the SBGA413, it is nevertheless found in the bracelet, which has a few quirks that the potential buyer should know about on the front end. For instance, the clasp does not sit completely flush with the bracelet but extends out slightly, increasing the chances of accidental snagging. 

There is no fine adjustment, a feature usually found on watch bracelets at most price levels, but there are two half links on each side of the clasp to improve the chances of a good fit. The lug width is the odd 21mm, making it harder to pair with after-market straps than watches with 20 or 22mm lug widths. 

But, many companies are starting to offer more 21mm choices in popular material, style, and color options. Also, some have noted slightly loose tolerances between the end links and watch case, and in their opinion, a little too much gap and jiggle for a $6000 watch.

Still, we’re really using a fine-tooth comb and a microscope to find such minor flaws. The bottom line is that the bracelet is of top-notch quality and pairs very well—if not perfectly—with the watch it holds.

On-Wrist Experience

My local Grand Seiko AD didn’t have a Shunbun in their showcase but did have another all-titanium Heritage Collection model with the same case style and a Spring Drive available to try on. If you’re accustomed to the heft of stainless steel and haven’t tried on a titanium watch before,  “heads up” because it can be a little trippy. 

My first impression was: Whoa, that thing is so light it practically flies out of my hand! But don’t mistake “lightweight” for “cheaply made” because Grand Seiko is a top-level luxury watch brand.

Beyond the comfortable featherweight feel, the watch fit well inside the width of my 6.5-inch wrist, even with the solid end links and 21mm lug width that slightly increase its presence. The short lug-to-lug distance of 46.5mm allows an acceptable fit on wrists of 6 inches or even slightly smaller, and the no-bezel design allows the watch to stand out on larger wrists in the 7.5-inch range. 

The slim Spring Drive and case design allow for a slender 12.8 mm thickness, so there is no problem fitting this watch under a cuff—although you’ll probably be constantly sliding it down to bare wrist in order to show it off to others, not to mention stare at it yourself.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko SBGA413 retails for $6,600. Per Watchcharts.com, the average preowned price as of this writing is $4,654, with an approximate range of $4,275-$5,000. The Shunbun is readily available at many Grand Seiko Authorized Dealers, including Exquisite Timepieces.

Conclusion

As I mentioned in the beginning, during the course of researching and writing this review, Grand Seiko became a “time tutor” who taught me seasonal change is more like a full chorus than a quartet. 

The luxury brand’s SBGA413 Shunbun is an ornate, highly accurate, and versatile watch suitable for many occasions. But it’s more than that: it’s a beautiful piece of “wrist art” with nuances you can savor and philosophical lessons about the “nature of time” you can learn and then live out.

To riff on a tagline for another highly accurate watch from a different era:  “It’s not a timepiece. It’s a contemplation piece.”

Have you ever wondered what the texture of a lake would look like on a watch dial? No, me neither. But of course, nature-loving Grand Seiko has done just that, reinterpreting the blue-colored ripples of Lake Suwa onto the dial of their sporty Evolution 9 model. The result? 

From online images, it should be a sporty chic watch with a dial that leaves you pretty mesmerized. But is the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 as good in person? 

Thankfully, I got hands-on with the model this past week to see if its impressive list of specs is up to scratch. As most of you know, we hold Grand Seiko in high esteem. They are one of just a few brands that have truly mastered horological excellence, proudly focusing on precision, elegance, and functionality. 

Because of this, however, we find ourselves with high standards when it comes to reviewing their watches. So is the Grand Seiko SLGA019 a masterpiece, or is it simply a novelty that fulfills the Japanese watchmaker’s obsession with nature? Let’s find out, shall we.

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection

Before we get into the nitty gritty details of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019, we first need to take a stroll down memory lane and consider where this model came from. Back in 1960, Seiko decided to up their game and create a more luxury-focused range of watches. Enter Grand Seiko, a collection of timepieces with premium finishing, materials and movements. 

Fast forward to 2017 and CEO Shinji Hattori made the announcement that Grand Seiko would become a standalone brand, separate from the Seiko Watch Company. With the Evolution 9 collection, which was launched three years later, Grand Seiko outlined a set of nine design standards that every model must hit. 

These included elements like a flat dial, double wide index at 12 o’clock, multi-faceted hour and minute hands, and a bracelet with at least half the width of the case with the right thickness and heft. 

You might be thinking this sounds like all Grand Seiko watches. And in some ways, it is, but the Evolution 9 hits more differently than you might anticipate. In fact, some of the changes to the design are almost invisible to the naked eye. For example, the way the ergonomic case has a lower center of gravity on the wrist isn’t something you can see, but it’s something you feel once it’s strapped on. 

But does this apply to the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019? For starters, the Japanese watchmaker has forgone the classic flat dial for one inspired by the soft blue ripples of its namesake. 

The luxury watch company has habitually drawn inspiration from aspects of nature surrounding their factory, and this novelty is no different. This time, they look to Lake Suwa, a freshwater lake in the Nagano Prefecture of Japan, known for its natural beauty and hot springs. 

This isn’t the first watch from Grand Seiko to form a “Lake Suwa ” series. In truth, this is the third in a line-up of three. The first was reference SLGA007, launched as part of the brand’s 140th anniversary celebration. 

The second arrived shortly after, reference SBGY007, which utilized a slightly different, but equally exquisite “Omiwatari ” dial pattern and marked the first non-limited edition Lake Suwa watch. Then there was SLGA019, launching later in 2023 and becoming the lightest of them all.

A Lightweight Titanium Case

Arguably, the biggest difference between the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 watch and the two launched before it is the case material. This time, the 40mm wide and 11.8mm tall case is machined from titanium, a material 30-35% lighter than stainless steel. 

This makes the SLGA019 incredibly wearable and comfortable, especially as an everyday dress watch. The metal also has a slightly warmer hue and softer appearance, plus it benefits from extra corrosion resistance.

This isn’t just any plain old titanium, either. It’s Grand Seiko’s patented high-intensity titanium, which offers a higher level of scratch resistance and durability than standard titanium. 

As I typically do with most titanium watches, I had to weigh it for myself, and according to my scales, reference SLGA019 weighs in at just under 112 grams. It’s a really nice weight for a dress watch; it’s not so light that it feels invisible, but it has a nice lightness that makes it effortless to wear when simply going about your business. 

As you’d expect from Grand Seiko, the finishing of the Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 watch is exceptional. The angular case presents the Evolution 9’s small, sloping lugs with a brushed finish to match the vertically brushed fixed bezel and bracelet links. 

In contrast, the bezel and case sides are finished using Grand Seiko’s famous Zaratsu polishing, a technique that involves using a spinning tin plate coated with diamond paste to create a flawless, distortion-free mirror finish. 

The Grand Seiko SLGA019 sits on the wrist with a lug-to-lug width of 47.9mm and boasts dual-curved sapphire crystal glass on top, a screwed exhibition case back – also utilizing sapphire crystal — and a simple knurled crown at 3 o’clock. The crown offers screw-down capability for a reasonable 100-meter water-resistant rating and is topped by the “GS” logo. 

Lake Suwa-Inspired Dial 

Due to its name, many will admire the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 most for its dial. Grand Seiko described the dial of the original Lake Suwa SLGA007 model to be inspired by “the calm waters of Lake Suwa”. 

The second (SBGY007) replicated the look of the water when it froze during the winter. This time, Grand Seiko suggests the lighter hue evokes “the surface of Lake Suwa and its gentle waves in the early morning hours when a breeze stirs the long, shallow lake.” 

In my opinion, this is the best of the “Lake Suwa” dials so far. Why? Because the shade of blue seems to change color depending on your surroundings. It stands out in a bold royal blue in direct sunlight, and yet, in the shade, it becomes an almost discreet shade of black. The supple ripple texture also gives the watch a certain sparkle; both the color and texture are highly responsive to light, reflecting it with every twist and turn. 

The hands and indices are also perfectly finished in the Evolution 9 style. Each hour marker is multifaceted, and the 12 o’clock marker has a double multifaceted shape. Despite not having a touch of lume anywhere on the dial, the display of the Grand Seiko SLGA019 is brilliantly legible. 

The dauphine-style hands are also broad and easy to read, offering classic hours, minutes, and seconds complication. The hour hand has a unique shape, with the end sliced off and a facet running down the center.

All the silvered hardware, including the boxed-in date at 3 o’clock, is brightly polished. My only complaint about the Grand Seiko SLGA019’s dial involves the date window. I can’t help but think, with a dial as beautiful as this, the date should have been neglected. 

And if a date must be insisted on, they should at least swap the white disc to one of navy for a more seamless, subtle finish. The dial is finished with the Grand Seiko logo added in relief at 12 o’clock and lettering denoting information about the movement at 6 o’clock. 

The Spring Drive Movement

Like the previous three Grand Seiko “Lake Suwa” watches, SLGA019 is powered by the Japanese brand’s in-house 9RA2 Spring Drive movement. This caliber cleverly combines the precision of a quartz movement with the smooth sweeping motion of a mechanical watch. This alone makes the SLGA019 a valuable timepiece, and when combined with the lightweight case and textured dial, there’s very little to berate. 

The quartz-mechanical hybrid is ingeniously engineered to maintain a remarkable accuracy of ±0.5 seconds per day or ±10 seconds per month. This exceptional accuracy is achieved through a combination of a quartz oscillator for timing stability, a mechanical gear train for power transmission, and an electromagnetic brake to regulate the speed of the glide wheel. 

The result is a movement that not only keeps impeccable time but also provides a unique tactile experience with its smooth, silent glide of the seconds hand. 

There’s plenty of pleasant finishing seen through the case back. I particularly like the frosted plates and bridges that are inspired by the frost that winter brings to the trees surrounding Grand Seiko’s manufacturing facility. 

As always, there’s blued screwed, beveled edges, 38 jewels, and an off-set magic lever to keep the movement, and consequently, the case, nice and thin. Rather than being placed on the front of the dial like most of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive watches, the power reserve is positioned on the back of the movement, so when the watch is off your wrist, you can see what’s remaining out of its 120-hour reserve.

Titanium Bracelet

Like the case, the bracelet is made using Grand Seiko’s high-intensity titanium. It boasts a three-link construction with a completely matte finish thanks to the vertically brushed decoration. It tapers from a 22mm lug width where it meets the case down to a 21mm width where the buckle appears. The buckle is embossed with the GS logo on top and has folding functionality with push button release. 

One of the few weak points of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 is that the bracelet lacks any sort of micro-adjustment. This hampers its ability to be used as a daily wearer since anyone familiar with wearing metal bracelet watches will know your wrist can swell and contract as the day goes on and temperatures vary. 

It would have been a nice addition for Grand Seiko to include a micro-adjustment system on this bracelet; I know it’s a feature many GS enthusiasts have been hoping for in the Evolution 9 series. 

It also comes with push pins for sizing instead of screws, which is a little crazy for a watch of this caliber. I’ve said it once, but I’ll say it again: Grand Seiko does everything right until it comes to their metal bracelets.

The bracelet does arrive with drilled lugs, though, so you can easily swap around the strap to something more suitable if you want. The 22mm lug width means you’ll have an endless supply of strap options to choose from. If it were me, I’d invest in a better-styled titanium bracelet or a nice chocolate brown alligator leather band.

On-Wrist Experience

With a watch like the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019, wearability is essential. First impressions confirmed that this was a watch I could effortlessly wear all day, every day. Its titanium construction is incredibly lightweight, and its dimensions make it effortlessly wearable for most wrist types. 

The lug-to-lug is a little larger than I’d like, but the slender profile, sleek curves, and low center of gravity make up for this. I’d suggest the SLGA019 would be best suited to those with six and a half inch wrists and above – but even myself, with a five-and-a-half-inch wrist enjoyed the statement this watch made. 

While its case makes it a daily beater, the dial of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 makes it one of the finest dress watches in the collection. The detailing and shade of blue are divine, and as always, the finishing on the dial’s hardware makes it sparkle almost like a diamond in certain lights. Its 11.8mm height means it’s also ideal for slipping it under shirt cuffs – although if it were me, I’d keep this bad boy out in the open for everyone to see.

Price & Availability 

The Grand Seiko SLGA019 retails for $10,400 brand new and is available to order from your local authorized dealer, including Exquisite Timepieces. It can also be found on the second-hand market for around $6,500. It’s another non-limited edition design, but with how popular the “Lake Suwa” series has proven so far, I wouldn’t expect it to stay in stock for much longer.

Conclusion

Like any watch, the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 has some room for improvement. Where the design is let down most is on the bracelet. I’m really hoping Grand Seiko up their bracelet game soon, as a watch like this deserves some micro-adjustment, and it especially needs to have screws rather than push pins. I’d also like to see the “Lake Suwa” series either dateless or at least with a color-matching date disc to match the textured display.

Other than that, the Grand Seiko SLGA019 is exceptional. The lightness of the titanium case, the levels of finishing on the case and bracelet, and the detail found on the detail are breathtaking. 

Then you have the in-house 9RA2 Spring Drive movement as the cherry on top. The weekday-proof 120-hour power reserve is extremely useful, and with a level of precision like this, you’ll never have an excuse for being late. I stand by my claim that this is the most handsome Grand Seiko “Lake Suwa” watch released so far.