News Archives - Page 18 of 28 - Exquisite Timepieces
Home / Blog / News / Page 18

 

Category: News

Grand Seiko SBGM245 Review

A close friend of mine is a bigger fan of Grand Seiko than anyone I know. His collection is predominantly filled with models from the brand’s Heritage, Elegance, and Sports families, and he’s often the person I go to when I have any questions or concerns about a particular model. 

It wasn’t all that long ago when we were chatting in-depth about GMTs, and I asked him which dual time-telling model from Grand Seiko would be his go-to recommendation. He mentioned several models, including the Spring Drive-powered SBGE253 and the beautifully dressy and impressively affordable SBGM221.

But the watch he spoke most passionately about was the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch. He described it as one of the best GMT sports watches on the market, being wearable, attractive, and well-priced for the list of specs that are included. 

So, of course, as any watch-obsessed writer would, I went out to find the watch for myself and tried it for a full week to see if it was really as good as he suggested. So here I am, reviewing the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245…

When Was the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 Released?

I’m not sure how it happened, but the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch was one of those releases that flew under the radar for me. I don’t know what other watches were being released at the same time, but it must have been something good for me to not have noticed a new GMT model from Grand Seiko. 

The design was first launched in 2021, towards the end of the year, and joined the Japanese watch brand’s collection alongside an equally attractive olive green-dialed variant.

Grand Seiko has never had a shortage of GMT models in their arsenal, but some of the most compact references were those with quartz movements. Now, don’t get me wrong, I love quartz watches – especially those by Grand Seiko – but if budget allows, I will always choose a mechanical timepiece. I’m a sucker for the craftsmanship and complexity that goes into a mechanical movement. 

But, the majority of Grand Seiko’s mechanical GMTs were a little large in size, typically measuring around 44mm in diameter. But with the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch and its green-faced counterpart, you’re getting both a mechanical movement and a compact set of case dimensions.

A Sporty but Compact Case

Sports watches, GMT watches, and sport GMT watches are typically large with statement dimensions to make an impact. This is fine if you have the wrist real estate to pull it off, but alas, with my five-and-a-half inch wrist, I’ve always found shopping for a solid sports watch incredibly difficult. So, when I saw the dimensions of the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch, I was over the moon. Finally, a sports GMT model that I could wear! 

Its dimensions include a 40.5mm width and a lug-to-lug of 48.6mm. On my wrist, it sits really nicely. It gives off that oversized sports watch aesthetic – something I absolutely love – with the short, downward-turned lugs helping to keep the watch nice and close to the skin. It’s a relatively thick watch, at 14.4mm tall, but it’s what you’d expect from a watch of this genre. 

At the end of the day, it’s a sports watch, not a dress watch, and we’ve got to take into account the prominent bezel, which gives the design so much of its personality, and the movement inside, which includes an extra layer of hardware for the GMT hand. That said, I can still imagine this watch sliding under the cuff of a dress shirt, as long as it’s one that’s not too tight. 

Despite this being one of Grand Seiko’s entry-level mechanical sport GMT watches, the finishing of the stainless steel case is exceptional. It delivers the same high levels of attention to detail as some of their more expensive models. It has satin-brushed finishing on the lug hoods and bright polishing on the case flanks. A beautiful sharp bevel separates the lugs from the case sides to help add to the watch’s sporty, streamlined architecture. 

This bevel, along with the case flanks, are brilliantly polished using Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu polishing technique. Also known as black polish, this is a high-end finishing that requires talented artisans who have trained for three years to meticulously hand polish the steel by holding it against a spinning tin plate. It’s a complex process, but one that delivers an exceptional mirror-like shine.

Giving the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch its tool-like personality is the bezel placed atop. Finished in matching stainless steel, the polished and satinized surface is handsomely etched with black-colored numerals for the 24-hour scale. If you still question this watch’s sportiness, know that it also comes with a screw-down crown at 4 o’clock and a closed case back offering a 200-meter water resistance

A Hand-Finished Dial

Every piece of shiny hardware seen on the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch’s dial is hand-finished, like the case. These lovely little pieces of dial furniture are once again polished by hand using diamond-tipped milling tools to create this lustrous shine. 

The hardware isn’t just singularly treated either but features brushing and polishing on the same component to create this wonderful visual effect of light play. For example, the hands at the center have beveled and polished edges and satinated centers, adding to their sharp and aggressive aesthetic. Similarly, the hour markers are faceted and boast their own combination of polishing and brushed finishing.

The hardware, all of which is also placed entirely by hand, sits on a gorgeous sunburst blue dial that plays with the lighting conditions depending on how you angle your wrist. One minute, the color is a rich navy blue; the next, it’s almost jet black. 

Even in the dark, the dial impresses with a generous amount of Lumibrite (Grand Seiko’s go-to luminous material) added to the hands and the four markers at each cardinal point. At night, these elements glow a rich green, providing you with effortless legibility no matter your surroundings.

The central GMT hand, finished in bright red for exceptional contrast, has its own arrow-shaped luminous tip. Its color pairs with the GMT text at 6 o’clock, also printed in red sitting beside white lettering to denote its automatic movement. 

Working with this complication is the sloped flange around the dial’s center, which is printed with a second24-hourr scale and has a dual-toned backdrop to showcase the day hours in silver and the night hours in navy blue. 

The only other features of the dial I’m yet to mention include the applied GS logo at 12 o’clock and the date window positioned at 4 o’clock. I appreciate the integration of the date window where the 4 o’clock hour marker should be, plus the nicely polished border. But would this dial look better without a date? Yes, I think so. Or at least let’s incorporate a blue date wheel to allow it to blend into the dial design a little more subtly.

An In-House Movement

As mentioned, the case back of the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch is closed. It’s a shame, as I always love to see the workings of a mechanical movement, but we do have to keep in mind that its closed nature helps to assist in its healthy 200-meter water resistance. The case back is nicely decorated, showcasing a lovely beaded border and the Grand Seiko lion logo at the center in relief.

The exact movement hiding behind this steel component is the Caliber 9S66 automatic winding movement. It’s a movement made entirely in-house by Grand Seiko and regulated in their own facilities, promising an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds per day. To receive this rating, the movement has been measured in six positions and placed under stress in artificially controlled environments for 12 days.

We’re promised a 72-hour power reserve, so you can easily take this watch off on Friday and put it back on Monday morning without worrying about lost time. It also pivots on 35 jewels, has stop seconds, and, of course, the added date and GMT complications for improved functionality.

Straps

There is beautiful satin-brushed finishing across the top and conforming end links for a comfortable fit. I’ve always liked the slight rolled bevel on these Grand Seiko bracelets. They have a lovely polished outer surface, giving the watch a contemporary look. 

The links are screw fixed and can be removed to achieve a more accurate fit. To help, there are several half links on either side, plus micro-adjustment holes on the stamped clasp. The twin push button release clasp is effortless to use and is nicely presented with the GS logo in relief. 

There’s a 20mm space between the drilled lugs, so finding and changing out alternative straps for the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch is made easy. If you’re like me and you have relatively small wrists, note that this will wear even more compactly on a strap rather than a bracelet.

On-Wrist Experience

The Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 is a fantastic watch that wears surprisingly comfortably for its size. With a 40.5mm width, it’s one of the most compact GMT sports watches out there, which is a huge plus for folks like me with smaller wrists—I’m rocking a five-and-a-half-inch wrist, and even though it’s a big watch, I love that oversized look. 

If your wrists are around six inches or more, this watch will fit perfectly; any smaller, and you might find it feels a bit too large. Any bigger than eight inches, and you might find it too small.

The 14.4mm height does make it thicker than your average dress watch, as it houses that impressive GMT movement. But don’t worry—it’s not so thick that you can’t slip it under a dress shirt. 

While this is definitely a tool watch and not a dress watch, I can still see it dressed up for formal occasions, too. The angled lugs and conforming end links of the bracelet make it super comfortable to wear all day, whether you’re at the office or out on an adventure. Overall, this watch strikes a great balance between functionality and style.

Price & Availability

Retailing for $5,700, the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch has become one of the Japanese watchmakers’ entry-level mechanical GMT sports watches. It’s incredibly well-priced for the high levels of case and dial finishing and technology going on inside. 

It’s a permanent piece in their collection, meaning it’s not limited to a specific set of pieces, but since it has been out on the market since 2021, it might not be a model that stays around for much longer.

If you choose to order the design, please ensure it’s through an authorized retailer like Exquisite Timepieces so you can feel confident you’re getting a genuine watch with all the official paperwork and warranty.  Alternatively, you may be able to find it on the second-hand market for around $3,500 to $4,000.

Conclusion

Following my friend’s advice has never let me down, and after reviewing the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 at his suggestion, I can confirm he’s one to trust yet again. This watch is beautifully executed in every way. The case is sporty and streamlined, making it incredibly comfortable to wear, allowing even those of us with smaller-than-average wrists to enjoy the statement that comes with a sporty GMT watch.

What truly sets this watch apart, though, is the exceptional hand-finishing. In a world where many luxury watches skimp on this detail, the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 stands out. 

Grand Seiko SBGH289 Review

Most watch collectors, myself included, own a dive watch but have never actually dived with it. It’s more of a style statement than a piece of actual dive gear, and there’s something reassuring knowing your timepiece can withstand high pressures of water – just in case you spontaneously decide to dive headfirst into a pool. 

Alternatively, you might actually be one of those rare collectors who does dive, or maybe you’re not even a collector at all—just a real, seasoned diver looking for something reliable. If so, then the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing this past week might just be the perfect watch for you. It’s not just about looking good (although if you’re like me and you do just enjoy a timeless dive watch aesthetic, it nails that, too), but this has a list of specs that promises a watch that performs.

Grand Seiko’s Background in Dive Watches

Grand Seiko has been around for over half a century, founded in 1960, and yet it wasn’t until 2008 that the Japanese watchmaker debuted their first dive watch. It included reference SBGA029, a stainless steel model, and reference SBGA031, done in titanium. 

Both were powered by the company’s legendary 9R65 Spring Drive movement, perfectly combining the ruggedness of a serious dive watch with the unprecedented precision of their Spring Drive technology. This unique movement, combining mechanical precision with quartz accuracy, gave their dive watches an edge in both reliability and performance, letting them contend in a saturated and highly competitive market.

In more recent years, Grand Seiko has also impressed with its Hi-Beat Diver models, which specifically target wearers who appreciate a higher frequency mechanical movement, offering greater accuracy and a more responsive feel. The brand has long been a strong contender in the sports watch market, so it’s no surprise that their dive watch collection is packed with high-performing, top-tier models.

One of their standout recent releases of recent years is the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 200m Diver SBGH289, launched in 2021 alongside its black-dialed counterpart, the SBGH291. These models lean more toward recreational diving, offering a slightly less rugged and oversized design, perfect for both underwater performance and casual weekend wear. 

They’re versatile and stylish, and still maintain the Grand Seiko reputation for excellence in craftsmanship and functionality. After wearing the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 for the past week, here are my thoughts…

A Solid, Water Resistant Case

No matter how hard I try, I can’t help but have preconceptions about a watch before it even lands on my desk for review. With the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289, despite the relatively compact dimensions listed on the GS website (at least, for a dive watch), I was convinced it was going to feel big—maybe even too big for my wrist. But, as usual, my assumptions were quickly proven wrong. 

Once I had it on, the watch felt perfectly balanced, with the sleek case design and smart proportions making it surprisingly comfortable. It manages to strike that rare balance between being substantial enough to feel like a true dive watch without overwhelming the wrist. It’s a perfect reminder that you can’t always judge a watch by its specs alone. 

Dimensions are made up of a 43.8mm width and a lug-to-lug of 51mm. It also has a thickness of 14.7mm which again feels much lower on the wrist than the numbers suggest. It should, as long as your shirt cuff isn’t too tight, slip easily under most dress shirts. The short but broad lugs that sloped downwards help to keep the case compact on the wrist while the bezel and sapphire crystal glass add to its height. 

The case of the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch is engineered from stainless steel and, in typical Grand Seiko style, features a nice combination of finishes. The case sides feature a black polish, also known as Zaratsu polishing in GS’s dictionary. 

It’s a process that is done completely by hand and requires several years of training to master. The metal is held against a spinning tinplate to create a breathtaking mirror polish. It looks incredibly good on a dress watch, and in this case, a sports watch.  There’s also a small bit of bevelling along the side of the case, adding to its sleek architecture and satin-brushed finishing applied on the lug hoods. 

Up top, the bezel has its own stainless steel ring with knurled detailing for easy grip, even with wet hands or while wearing thick diving gloves. Sadly, the bezel is not ceramic, which is something you’d expect at this price point. In fact, Grand Seiko doesn’t specify exactly what the material is, but to me, it appears to be ADLC, aka Amorphous Diamond-Like Carbon. 

It’s still a super scratch-resistant and glossy material that won’t shatter like a ceramic will. Grand Seiko has also suggested it’s been treated with a special hard coating so that durability is increased further. What I really love about the bezel is how silky and smooth it feels to turn. It’s a pleasure to set with an accurate 120-click action. The insert is a glossy black and has a 60-minute diver’s scale engraved in white around the circumference. A luminous pip is also added at 12 o’clock. 

At 3 o’clock, there’s a screw down crown nicely recessed into the case and protected by prominent crown guards. The case back is also screwed down, allowing for a healthy water-resistant rating of 200 meters. It’s the perfect level of water pressure protection for most recreational diving, whether you’re snorkeling, swimming, or going for a shallow dive. 

Even if you’re not planning on deep-sea adventures, 200 meters of water resistance means you never have to worry about everyday splashes, rain, or even taking it in the shower. It’s more than enough for casual divers or anyone who simply enjoys the peace of mind that comes with a robust, well-engineered dive watch. 

A Deep Navy Dial 

Like the pip on the bezel at 12 o’clock, much of the hardware on the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch glows bright green in the dark. I’ve always loved the unusual combination of hands-on Grand Seiko’s dive watches, and the unique setup is made all the more obvious when the hands glow brilliantly at night. 

There’s a modern and broad arrow-tipped minute hand, a lollipop seconds hand, and a vintage-inspired cathedral hour hand. It might not be a combination of hardware suited to every taste, but I love it, and it really highlights Grand Seiko’s proficiency in bringing together traditional watchmaking techniques with modern ones. 

The dial has a gorgeous glossy blue finish that appears a deep royal blue in some lights and almost black in others. The rounded and baton-shaped hour markers are also generously decorated in Lumibrite for glow-in-the-dark capability and are hand-finished and brightly polished for an upscale look. 

It’s a relatively simple and standard dial layout, but the finishing of the hardware makes the dial look and feel more luxurious than any other standard dive watch. The date window at 3 o’clock, which replaces the hour marker here, also has its own polished border and a black-on-white date disc.

The only other notes of reference on the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch’s dial are the sloped navy seconds scale around the furthest edge and the applied Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock. 

There’s also some lettering printed for Grand Seiko below the applied logo and several lines of text to denote the watch’s water resistance and movement at 6 o’clock. You could argue the text here could be reduced by a line or two to make the dial feel less cluttered, but since this is a time-and-date watch, after all, it doesn’t feel excessive.

A Hi-Beat Movement

Housed inside the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch is the Caliber 9S86 Hi-Beat movement. It’s automatic winding with manual winding capacity and is best characterized – and named after – by its high frequency of 5Hz or 36,000 vibrations per hour. It also has a 55-hour power reserve, a quick set date, and hacking seconds. It’s also one of Grand Seiko’s most finely regulated movements, claiming an accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds a day. That’s an accuracy well within chronometer standards (-4 to +6 seconds a day).

Thanks to its higher frequency, the seconds hand glides with a noticeably smoother sweep compared to standard mechanical watches running at 28,800 vph. While it may not achieve the ultra-smooth flow of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive movements, it still offers a wonderfully fluid motion and a subtle, satisfying tick that’s a pleasure to see and hear.

A Solid Metal Bracelet

The bracelet of the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch is really nice and has a lot going for it. It has a lovely conforming end link which sits flush to the bracelet. There’s nothing worse than a metal bracelet that leaves a gap, even one small, between the bracelet and the case. 

That’s not a problem here, though. It has a modern look with a three-link architecture and wide spacing between the lugs. The bracelet does have a slight taper, decreasing ever so slightly the closer it gets to the folding buckle.

Like the case, the bracelet’s stainless steel surface has a combination of polished and satin-brushed finishing. The edges of the links have beautiful, rolled bevels with polishing, while the central links are tipped by edges that are also polished.

Annoyingly, the links are fixed with pins instead of screws, which is unusual for a Grand Seiko’s stainless steel model – we’ve seen this with some of their titanium models, but rarely those made from classic steel. It would have been better to have seen screws here, but changing out links is still easy and requires few tools.

That said, there likely won’t be many links to remove since there are plenty of micro-adjustment options on the buckle. There are four micro-adjust holes equipped on the buckle and a diver’s extension, so you can make super accurate amendments. 

The dive extension is particularly useful, as it can be done on the go while the watch is on the wrist. You just lift the two tabs on the buckle to adjust the sizing. It means you can adjust the length even while around marine environments without the worry you’ll drop it in the water! 

The buckle itself has a twin trigger release for added security and is nicely embossed with the Grand Seiko logo in relief. If you’d rather wear – or dive – in a water-resistant strap like a rubber watch band, then the 22mm lug width and drilled lugs make shopping and changing out the strap a breeze.

On-Wrist Experience

Despite its seemingly large dimensions, I’m thoroughly impressed with how the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 wears. The short, angled lugs are thoughtfully designed to hug the wrist, giving it a surprisingly comfortable fit. In fact, I think it could work on wrists as small as six inches, as long as you don’t mind the oversized look. 

That said, I’d recommend it for wrists between six-and-a-half and eight inches for the best balance of size and proportion. The only drawback is the use of stainless steel, which adds a bit of heft and makes it feel slightly heavier than you might expect. However, the extra weight doesn’t make it too cumbersome; it still wears well and feels solid without being overbearing, making it a good choice for those who appreciate a more substantial dive watch.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch is a permanent addition to the Japanese watchmaker’s portfolio, meaning that it’s a non-limited edition and doesn’t appear to be leaving the collection anytime soon. It retails for $7,300 brand new when ordered from authorized retailers like Exquisite Timepieces

It’s always worth purchasing your watches through authorized retailers like this, as you’ll have the reassurance that you’re getting a genuine watch with all the official paperwork and warranty. You can also find the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 on the second-hand market, averaging between $4,000 and $5,000.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 is a fantastic dive watch that feels robust, reliable, and built to last. The case is surprisingly compact despite its listed dimensions, and it’s impressive how well Grand Seiko has managed to pull off a watch that’s both functional and attractive – especially at this price. The bezel and deep blue dial are also well executed and feel right at home alongside much more expensive dive watches. I will always love the unique combination of hand styles, too. In my opinion, you’ll not find a comparable Swiss-made dive watch with this level of hand-finishing and technology. I’m happy to recommend it to anyone who loves the look of a dive watch or genuinely wants something robust and reliable that can join you under the waves.

Grand Seiko SBGK007 Review

A stylish addition to Grand Seiko’s Elegance Collection, and rightfully so, the SBGK007 blends modern formality and classic timelessness. With a quick look, it’s pretty apparent that the watch is more than ideal in formalities.

The SBGK007 may have been launched several years ago, back in 2019, but it still holds up as an excellent choice. Of course, this is for many reasons, from design choices to internal components and how it wears. Grand Seiko is known to get creative with their designs, but there’s nothing wrong with sticking to the basics.

For those looking for something a little more retro from Grand Seiko, I feel the SBGK007 definitely hits the mark. To discern this for yourself, this review will break past the surface details of the watch to provide a more comprehensive picture.

When Did the SBGK007 Launch?

Released in 2019, the SBGK007 is a clear attempt at a retro-looking watch that exudes luxury both visually and to the touch. You can find it in Grand Seiko’s Elegance Collection, and you can find two dial-variants of this watch: the SBGK009 and SBGK005.

While all three watches look stellar, the SBGK007 delivers the most universal wearability. I don’t look at the watch as a historical piece per se, but up close, it’s a sight to behold. It’s important to note that it isn’t a reissue, but it’s evident that the design choices are a call-back to a classic look.

As enough time passes, I’m confident this watch will become a historical staple for Grand Seiko. Everyone can benefit from a clean-cut, retro luxury watch, and the SBGK007 does a great job of blending the old with the new.

The SBGK007 Case From Every Angle

To give you an idea of how the case might look and feel on your wrist, it can be helpful to look at the varying dimensions. Featuring a 39mm diameter and 11.6mm thickness, the watch dons a subdued design with minimal wrist presence.

It isn’t necessarily meant to be a flashy timepiece but rather blend in with the professional tone of your outfit and the occasion. The Elegance Collection is perfect for this watch, as it truly embodies the nature of simplistic luxury.

The slim design on top of a 44mm lug-to-lug length offers a proportional design that blends well with the curvature of your wrist. Most Grand Seiko watches in my collection stand out, whether due to size, dial color, or accents. However, I immediately craved something different when I saw the SBGK007.

You’ll find the case is crafted with a mostly polished surface, with minor satinized accents for a bit of contrast at the right angles. A sloped case design gives the scale of the watch a sleeker look and adds to the overall comfort. Taking inspiration from King Seiko models, the case is reminiscent of the 1969 Grand Seiko style.

The case itself is made of stainless steel, but the components are slim enough that you won’t have to worry about excessive weight. Of course, you get the benefit of dual-curved sapphire crystal, offering the clarity and durability you need. As an added note, the crystal comes with an anti-reflective coating on the inside, which is essential, in my opinion.

I’m a huge fan of open case backs, which is a pleasant surprise with the SBGK007, and it’s built with a screw-down design. Better yet, this reveals the inner workings of the 9S63 movement on the inside.

If you take a close look, you’ll discover a subtle cutout for the push-and-pull crown. This is a call back to the 1969 King Seiko and includes the classic GS initials. I’m impressed with the watch’s low-profile bezel, as it helps boost its flatter design. You won’t find a bezel insert, but the simple yet highly polished design of the bezel gives the dial more room to shine.

Classic Dials Never Miss

A face card that’ll always impress, the dial of the SBGK007 is serene, to say the least. Delivering a relatively muted silver colorway, it shines just enough to catch your eye but never distracts from the time. Balance is a key factor for me in luxury watchmaking, something that isn’t very easy to achieve.

However, when it comes to Grand Seiko, it’s clear this is a focal point in everything they do. Some find the dial to be too simple for their liking, but the contrast of the strap color helps the dial really stand out.

Due to the somewhat blank slate look of the dial, I’m able to see it take on the color hues of the surrounding light. Whether it’s an orange sunset or neon lights, these colors will subtly reflect off the dial, a small yet satisfying detail.

This also helps the hands and indices stand out without looking too hard. This is an important detail, considering this watch doesn’t have any luminescence. I find it a little unfortunate that a date window isn’t included, but I feel like I understand why they went that route.

You have a power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock and a seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock. If they added a date window, too, the dial wouldn’t look as serene as it does. The placement choices on the dial help with its symmetry, which is a small choice I really appreciate. I’m not really a fan of subdials being at even and odd positions. Having these sub-dials at three and nine guarantees uniformity with the center of the surface.

It’s likely that you wouldn’t immediately notice this, but the dial is also built with a sloped design. Tapering off the closer it gets to the edge, I’m always amazed at how colorful the dial can be with the most subtle influence of light.

Grand Seiko put a lot of fine detail into a watch that seems pretty simple on the surface. The dial texture might not seem like much, but with the right angle, you’ll see what it really brings to the table. Boasting what’s referred to as a sunburst finish, the dial looks like it gleams in the center and begins to fade near the edges.

You’ll also enjoy the finite index markers and hands, as they come with a nice finish and don’t pull away from the surface of the dial. Classic sword-style hands count every second, and I love the fact they decided to avoid a large seconds hand. 

It really helps keep the dial more open face, which I feel is the highlight of the overall design. The minute is as classic as it gets, only providing exactly what you need to tell the time. 

Much More Than a Standard Mechanical Movement

Built with a beautiful 9S63 mechanical movement, it’s the first manual winding movement Grand Seiko has introduced in quite some time. The power reserve is 72 hours, and once I saw the 28,800 vibrations per hour, I knew the watch was going to be a satisfying wear. You can see the smooth timekeeping with each passing second, a true testament to the hand-assembled approach from Grand Seiko.

The mean daily rate is +5 to -3 seconds, and the normal accuracy for regular use is +10 to -1 seconds per day. This specific movement comes from the craftsman at the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, further cementing its unique in-house engineering and quality. 

When I first learned about this watch, it was the finer notes about its creation that kept me locked in. All it took was for me to give it a test run, and all of the documentation made complete sense.

This is especially true with the manual winding mechanism of the SBGK007, as it adds to the old-school tone of the design. Some things never go out of style, and the movement of this watch carries that entire sentiment. 

You can even see several large jewels in the open case back, as well as the finite workings that are built with micro precision. I have no issue with watches that like to tick, but I’m honestly impressed with how smoothly this movement functions. 

The seconds hand looks like a seamless glide, and watching the movement in action is a testament to the quality and consistency of this timepiece.

Sometimes, I think it’s unfortunate I can’t just admire every layer of the movement at any time. While an open case back is as good as it gets for everyday wear, I find myself appreciating it more every day.

Once again, the watch doesn’t seem like much until you take a closer look. With the SBGK007, you get a one-of-a-kind quality movement that really shows you that what is on the inside really counts.

How the SBGK007 Strap is the Perfect Compliment

You can never go wrong with a solid black strap. The SBGK007 finds contrast and balance in its high-quality alligator strap. Not only does this promise durability, but I find myself surprised at how soft the inside layer feels on the wrist. Even if it feels obviously durable on the outside, you won’t feel any friction on the skin.

One small downside here is that it’s built with a 19mm lug width, a sizing that’s known to make finding replacement straps a bit difficult. Swapping it out is not impossible, but the strap delivers a quality that makes me want to leave everything as it was meant to be.

The strap quality is meant for long-term, consistent use. You don’t need to have a suit on every day to warrant this watch. I’m using it as a daily wear myself, and the durability of the strap hasn’t wavered in the slightest.

You’ll also appreciate the slight grooves and serene finish on the strap, as it beautifully compliments the Zaratsu-polished areas across the case. Grand Seiko doesn’t include any additional straps with this watch, as its original design will hold up in quality and style for generations to come.

What It’s Like to Wear the SBGK007

I’ve had skinnier wrists my entire life, which definitely comes with some challenges in the timepiece category. That’s partly what makes me so excited about the SBGK007, is that it wears very well for 6-inch wrists. I’m only slightly over that mark, and I find it to be a snug yet comfortable fit.

Of course, on the other end of that spectrum, people with larger wrists might have a harder time with this watch. Nevertheless, the overall thinness of the watch, specifically the case, makes for a hidden gem on the wrist. It’s beautiful to the naked eye and can easily blend in with a vast range of outfits.

Whether you’re out boating, at the office, or on a date, this watch comes with a very universal use case. I like a little color here and there, but the muted look of this watch has become a common part of my weekly rotations.

Aside from the many selling points in the design of the SBGK007, the cost is bound to sway your decision-making. Thankfully, I, among many others, find this watch to come at an understandable cost. I feel Grand Seiko has found a mid-range for entry-level enthusiasts and luxury that’s worth the asking price.

Cost and Availability

With a search online, you can find the Grand Seiko SBGK007 retailed at $6,900. This is a bit high for me, but I can see why many others wouldn’t even give the cost of this watch a second thought. Understandably steep for some individuals, this is actually quite respectable considering how expensive luxury watchmaking can get.

However, a preowned SBGK007 is much more affordable, commonly found between the $3,700 and $4,500 range. Many used luxury watches look brand new if properly taken care of. Everyone likes a brand-new watch, but it’s not a necessity in the world of high-quality timekeepers.

As far as availability goes, the watch isn’t hard to find, but you should choose a retailer that understands Grand Seiko to its core. This is rarer than you might think, as many sellers are just trying to make a quick buck.

If you want an educational buyer’s experience accompanied by a historical understanding of GS and its craftsmanship, consider working with Exquisite Timepieces. This ensures you have the support you need in your decision-making process and answers to every question that crosses your mind.

At Exquisite Timepieces, you can easily access the Grand Seiko SBGK007 without having to worry about authenticity, quality, or customer service. 

The Bottom Line

Grand Seiko may not be new to the luxury watch market, but they often impress newcomers and veterans alike. Between the unique movement and smart, stylish design choices, the SBGK007 is a personal favorite from the Elegance Collection.

What makes this watch an outstanding choice is that its styling will never stop being relevant. This same sentiment can be shared with the quality of Grand Seiko engineering, which continues to stand the test of time and push innovation.

Grand Seiko SBGA439 Review

Many watch collectors, myself included, have a bucket list of holy grail watches we hope to own one day. For some, it’s popular designs like the Rolex Submariner or the Omega Speedmaster. For me, though, it’s the Grand Seiko Spring Drive. Why? Because this is one of those pieces of technology that is impossible to replicate. 

No other watch brand has designed a movement quite like this one – a movement that not just tells the time but tells it almost perfectly, and two – a movement that combines the best of both mechanical and quartz technology. 

But of course, with incredible technology often comes high price tags, and even though, when put into perspective, much of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive collection is very reasonably priced, it’s still out of reach for some. 

That said, there are a few designs in the collection that are the perfect entry-level pieces for those wanting to own a Spring Drive watch. One such model is the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439. It’s a watch that lacks very little in terms of design and technology and yet retails for less than $5,000. Shall we take a closer look? 

What is a Spring Drive Movement? 

Grand Seiko ultimately has three movement pillars to distinguish their watches. There are their 9F quartz models (some of the most accurate quartz watches in the world, I should add), their Hi-Beat models, and, of course, their Spring Drive watches. The latter is undoubtedly their best-known, for good reason. 

These are revolutionary watches that, in essence, use mechanical power as a reserve of energy with the help of a mainspring (a component used in all mechanical watches). The rotating wheel at the end of the gear train creates a small electrical charge that sends a signal to an integrated and quartz oscillator (the same used in quartz watches). 

It sounds complicated because it is. It’s a piece of proprietary technology Grand Seiko developed for several decades, first being initiated during the 1970s and later being launched in 1999, debuting at Baselworld that same year. 

The movement’s brilliance lies in a number of things, including its seconds hand, which is insanely smooth with a continuous motion – there’s none of that erratic ticking like a regular watch.

Spring Drive movements are also insanely accurate. To put it into perspective, even some of the most accurate mechanical watches on the market are rated between -4 to +6 seconds per day. The Grand Seiko Spring Drive, on the other hand, has an impressive tolerance of just +/- 1 second per day. 

Basically, you’re getting the accuracy of a quartz watch but with the artistry of mechanical watchmaking. It’s the best of both worlds in my opinion, and it’s for this reason so many watch collectors consider the Grand Seiko Spring Drive a prerequisite of a true luxury watch collection. 

OK, so back to the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive “Midnight Blue” SBGA439 watch. This model was first released in 2021 alongside four other entry-level Spring Drive watches with silver, white, or champagne-colored dials. 

As mentioned in the introduction, trailblazing technology often comes with a price tag to warrant it. Typically, Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches retail from between $6,000 and $7,000, so to find one within the $4,000 bracket has become a huge win for those of us working with a smaller budget.

A Refined Steel Case

You might think that since the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439 watch is one of the most affordable Spring Drive models in their portfolio, it will lack some of the luster and elegance of other designs in the collection. 

I thought that, too, honestly, but I was wrong. In fact, the SBGA439 wears just as beautifully as any other Spring Drive I’ve had the pleasure of trialing. It has a beautiful classic shape and wonderful dimensions that are going to suit pretty much any wrist size. 

It measures just 40mm wide, 12.3mm thick, and with a lug-to-lug width of 46.6mm. As someone with a five-and-a-half inch wrist, I typically max out watches at 40mm, but I have to admit, this model wears smaller than its dimensions suggest. And that’s not a bad thing. 

In fact, it’s incredibly compact, and I think that’s really down to the length of the case. It sits beautifully on my wrist, and yet I can just as easily imagine it on someone with a frame larger than myself. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439 presents all the high levels of finishing we’ve come to expect from the Japanese watchmaker. The interior plains of the lugs and bracelet links are brushed, while the rest of the design, including the case sides, bezel, and aggressive line facets running down the case length, are brightly polished. 

These are created using the company’s famous Zaratsu polishing, a process done completely by hand, requiring several years of training and insane levels of attention to detail. The mirror finish is certainly worth the effort. 

For a nice touch of vintage appeal, the watch is topped by double-domed sapphire crystal glass with an anti-reflective coating for excellent visibility. There’s also a screw-down crown at 3 o’clock, with slight knurled detailing, and the GS logo placed at the center in relief. The crown is ever so slightly recessed into the case for added protection without the need to add any bulky crown guards. 

Similarly, the case back is solid and embossed with the Grand Seiko logo and their legendary lion emblem. Both the case back and crown ensure a water resistance of 100 meters. The closed case back might be a letdown for some because it’s always nice to see the technology of the Spring Drive movement through a glass back, but minor sacrifices like this help keep the cost down. 

A Midnight Blue Dial 

If you’re even remotely familiar with Grand Seiko, then it’s very likely you’re aware that many of their dials are often patterned or intricately engraved. That’s not the case with the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA43 watch, however. Instead, the dial is kept simple and classic, yet somehow, it is still no less beautiful. 

It features this rich deep blue dial Grand Seiko called “Midnight Blue”. It has a subtle sunburst effect that radiates from the center of the display and creates this cool color-changing feature depending on the lighting conditions.

The dial appears royal blue in the bright light, and then, in darker areas, it seems almost pitch black. It’s a beautiful effect despite there being no obvious visual complexity. 

Of course, with this being a Grand Seiko dial, after all, the hardware placed at the center is not neglected by the brand’s hand-made craftsmanship. Every single hand and marker has been hand-finished by trained artisans to contribute their own element of light play.

Resting between the lined minute track in white, the large, hand-applied, and hand-polished hour markers glisten with every movement of the wrist. In a similar fashion, the hands are faceted and sharply finished, with the seconds hand freely rotating with not a single jump or splutter in sight – all thanks to the Spring Drive movement. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA43 watch does offer two complications. The first is the box-shaped date window at 3 o’clock, replacing its respective hour marker with a polished silver border and a nice color-matching date wheel. 

The other is the power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, printed in white with its own silver hand to showcase its remaining power. From there, the only other dial details are the Grand Seiko logos beneath the double 12 o’clock index and white ink lettering at 6 o’clock to denote the movement inside.

A Spring Drive Movement

Powering the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive “Midnight Blue” SBGA43 watch is the Caliber 9R65 Spring Drive movement. This is easily one of the better-known and most popular Spring Drive movements on the market, as it keeps things “simple” with just time, date, and power reserve. It’s still a world-class movement, and this is one of the reasons why this model is such a compelling point of value in the broader Grand Seiko lineup.

It delivers that silently and unbelievably smooth gliding seconds hand at the center and an accuracy of one second per day, or 15 seconds per month. It also boasts a weekend-proof 72-hour power reserve, so you can confidently take the watch off on a Friday and return it to your wrist on Monday, knowing it’ll still be keeping perfect time. Plus, the power reserve is on show on the dial, so it’s easy to keep track of when the watch might need a few hours of wear.

A Simple Steel Strap

Securing the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive “Midnight Blue” SBGA439 watch to the wrist is a bracelet we don’t often see from the Japanese watchmaker. It’s a standard, simply executed oyster-style bracelet with three links and a 20mm lug width. 

It has the same combination of brushed and polished surfaces as many of GS’s bracelets, but it doesn’t have the signature polished middle links. It’s still a beautiful, solid-looking, and feeling bracelet but does have a little less pizzazz than those with the added polishing. 

The bracelet tapers down to a push-button folding clasp decorated with the GS logo in relief. The lugs are drilled, so strap changes are easy, and with its 20mm lug width, you’ll have no trouble finding replacement straps elsewhere. 

Since it’s a standard Grand Seiko clasp, don’t expect to find any micro adjustment here. It does arrive with screws and half links, though, so a good level of close adjustment is still possible.

On-Wrist Experience 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439 watch is one of those watches I’d recommend to almost anybody. The Spring Drive technology inside speaks for itself, and its combination of finishing, dial color, and dimensions make it one of the most versatile daily beaters from Grand Seiko. 

It has excellent wearability thanks to its 40mm width and relatively thin 12.3mm height. It sits even smaller than its width suggests, too, keeping comfy and compact thanks to the 46.6mm lug to lug. 

I’d confidently say that anyone with wrists as small as five-and-a-half inches can effortlessly pull off this watch, and it looks just as fantastic on wrists up to eight inches. Even if you have a larger frame but love the elegance of a smaller watch, this piece can still shine. Its slender profile makes it ideal for formal occasions, easily slipping under shirt cuffs. 

The rich blue dial color is also perfect for these occasions, adding a touch of sophistication and depth that enhances its overall elegance. It’s one of those watches that transitions between an everyday timepiece and a dress watch, perfect for those who want to invest in a good quality all-rounder. 

Price & Availability 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439 watch is one of the most affordable Spring Drive offerings from the Japanese luxury watch brand, retailing for just $4,800. 

This will never not be an impressive price, especially when you take into account the high levels of detail, the hand-finishing, and, of course, the groundbreaking Spring Drive movement. Just be sure to order yours from an authorized Grand Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces to ensure you receive a genuine watch with all the official paperwork and warranty. 

The model can also be found on the second hand market for around $3,500 and $4,000 if you’re interested. It’s a permanent addition to Grand Seiko’s Heritage Spring Drive collection, so we don’t expect it to be disappearing anytime soon.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive “Midnight Blue” SBGA439 watch is one of those watches I truly believe not enough people know about. When you type Spring Drive into a search engine, you’ll instantly become inundated with examples of some of the Japanese brand’s more expensive models and conclude that these are watches you can’t afford. But that’s just not the case. 

Grand Seiko does boast an impressive line-up of entry-level Spring Drive models and the SBGA439 is one of the best. If you want a highly accurate timepiece with a flawless sweeping seconds hand, hand-finishing detailing, compact dimensions and a mesmerizing deep blue dial, you’ll struggle to find anything better than the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439.

Grand Seiko SBGE277 Review

After testing and reviewing several Grand Seiko watches, I’ve grown accustomed to a particular style—sleek, compact, and elegant. The pieces I’ve worn are mostly ones you’d expect to see on formal occasions. I wouldn’t call them dainty, but there’s definitely a refined, dressier feel to many watches in the Grand Seiko catalog. 

If there’s one thing Grand Seiko excels at, it’s evolving while maintaining its signature quality. To reach a wider audience, the brand expanded its collection to include sports watches that match the elegance of its dress pieces. At the same time, it continues to innovate, improving its in-house movements with precise complications like chronographs and GMTs. 

Since 2010, GS has gained worldwide popularity for its variety of sports watches. These watches have shed the delicacy of dress watches and adopted a more robust and rugged look, all while maintaining the elegance that made Grand Seiko the household name it is today. 

While browsing through a variety of sports watch options, one model stood out as a true champion among heavyweights—the SBGE277. I often associate Grand Seiko pieces with art, but I can’t overstate the brilliance that radiates from this exquisite watch. Much like a masterpiece in the Louvre, the SBGE277 can only be fully appreciated in person.

History

As touched upon earlier, the developers at Grand Seiko believed that to become a legitimate contender in the watchmaking world dominated by Swiss manufacturers, they needed to expand their collection. In 2002, GS produced an instant classic with the SBGM001. 

The SBGM001 was the first Grand Seiko model to feature the 9S56 movement, marking the brand’s introduction of a GMT complication. With its black dial and striking red GMT hand, this watch made waves upon release for its design, functionality, and precision.

The 2010s marked a new chapter for Grand Seiko with the launch of the Sports Collection. The brand expanded beyond dress watches, introducing chronograph and GMT models, including some limited editions. This shift into tool watches helped Grand Seiko break the mold and gain recognition in international markets.

After an impressive showcase at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, Grand Seiko kept the momentum going by announcing another wave of releases. Among them was the SBGE277, launched in May 2022. This timepiece boasts a commanding wrist presence, featuring a striking black dial and housing the remarkable in-house Caliber 9R65 movement.

Case

Every rugged dive watch requires a solid and durable case, and the SBGE277 delivers precisely that. As one of the larger GMT models in Grand Seiko’s lineup, it measures 44mm in diameter, 14.77mm thick, and has a lug-to-lug width of 50.8mm.

The watch’s double-domed sapphire crystal fits nicely into the case and doesn’t stick out as much, giving it a shallow, snug look. The screw-down crown is placed conveniently at the 4 o’clock marker.

Perhaps my favorite feature of this Grand Seiko GMT is the bezel. The last time I reviewed a GS GMT, it lacked a rotating bezel. It almost sounds childish, but as soon as I got my hands on the SBGE277, my fingers wrapped around the bezel and began rotating away.

The SBGE277 features a beautifully designed half-black, half-white bidirectional sapphire bezel. The action of the rotating bezel is smooth, and the satisfying click as it turns makes up for the silence of the Spring Drive movement. (Not to knock Grand Seiko’s innovative Caliber 9R66, but I have a soft spot for the ticking sound of traditional watches.)

As someone with a smaller wrist, the idea of wearing a GMT can be daunting. When I read the specs of the SBGE277, especially its 44mm diameter, I was already bracing myself for disappointment, expecting yet another oversized horological beauty that just wouldn’t fit.

But once again, I was proven wrong by the master craftsmen and women at the Grand Seiko Studios. The stainless steel case tapers inward, making the watch feel more like a 40mm than a 44mm. The curved lugs also hug the wrist, making the SBGE277 surprisingly comfortable to wear.

With a blend of Zaratsu polishing and brushed finishing, the SBGE277 offers the ability to track three different time zones and boasts 200 meters of water resistance. It’s the ideal combination of sporty and elegant—exactly what you’d expect from Grand Seiko.

Dial

Grand Seiko is renowned for creating dials that are nothing short of remarkable. Whether it’s the color, intricate details, or textured finishes, it’s no surprise that GS consistently delivers some of the finest dials in the industry.

Seeing a picture of the SBGE277 online doesn’t do it justice. I may be exaggerating slightly, but to truly appreciate the beauty and craftsmanship of this dial, you need to see it in person.

At the foot of the Hotaka Mountains lies the Shinshu Watch Studio, where Grand Seiko designs, produces, and adjusts all Spring Drive-powered watches. The SBGE277’s black textured dial is a tribute to this volcanic mountain range, inspired by the rugged beauty of the Hotaka peaks.

A bit reminiscent of the SBGE201 and its jet-black dial, the SBGE277 has a black dial filled with intricate details, staying true to Grand Seiko’s nature-inspired theme. Like the volcanic rock of Mt. Hotaka, the dial resembles obsidian, playing with light as it reflects off its surface.

The inner rehaut mirrors the outer bezel, featuring black and white odd-numbered markers. As expected, the silver Grand Seiko logo sits below the 12 o’clock marker, while the red GMT lettering and Spring Drive reminder in white are positioned just above the 6 o’clock marker.

The red GMT hand is a bold and striking feature, standing out beautifully against the black dial and adding an extra layer of visual appeal to the already stunning design. The hour and minute hands are exquisitely polished, while the seconds hand glides smoothly around the dial, thanks to the Caliber 9R66.

A power reserve indicator is neatly positioned between the 8 and 9 markers, providing a valuable reminder for when to manually wind the watch. Additionally, there’s a slim date window at the 4 o’clock position.

I saved my favorite detail for last. While a watch under light is beautiful, a watch you can rely on in the dark is even better. At its core, the SBGE277 is a tool watch, and its incredible lume ensures you can quickly tell the time, whether you’re diving or simply in a dark room.

The dauphine hands, indices at 3, 6, 9, and 12, and the outer bezel all feature LumiBrite for enhanced visibility. Thanks to the sapphire crystal covering the bezel, the luminescence extends around the edge, illuminating the watch’s notable and functional details.

Movement

With the high torque of a mechanical watch and the high precision of a quartz watch, Grand Seiko developed an in-house movement that combined the two mechanisms. Their creation would stun the world and solidify the brand as one of the world’s elite watchmakers. 

The Spring Drive movement was the result of a 20-year journey to create a watch that could be considered a representation of time itself. Silent and continuous, this revolutionary movement debuted in 1999 and set forth a groundbreaking new era for Grand Seiko. 

Round and round it goes, never stopping in a continuous flow—what am I? The answer to this little riddle could be time itself, but it could just as easily be the seconds hand on a Spring Drive Caliber 9R65 Grand Seiko, first introduced in 2004.

The SBGE277 is powered by the Caliber 9R66. The successor of the 9R65, the Caliber 9R66 is the first Spring Drive with a GMT compilation. 

Precision has always been a core goal for Grand Seiko, and the SBGE277 delivers with remarkable accuracy, offering a deviation of ±1 seconds per day and ±15 seconds per month. 

The crown plays a crucial role in the functionality of the 9R66 movement, allowing for manual winding to power the watch. As you wind it, the power reserve indicator on the dial moves accordingly, letting you know how much energy is stored. With a 72-hour power reserve, the watch can run for several days before needing to be wound again.

Pulling the crown to its second position allows you to adjust the hour hand independently, making it easy for travelers to set the local time without disrupting the sweeping hand.

With its unparalleled accuracy, time-hacking capabilities, and mesmerizing sweeping seconds hand, the Caliber 9S66 that powers the SBGE277 elevates this already impressive entry in the Grand Seiko lineup. The elegant yet bold design of the case, the layered, textured dial, and the seamless flow of the second hand all come together to create a cohesive and striking timepiece.

Bracelet

The SBGE277 features a beautifully crafted stainless steel bracelet, showcasing the classic Grand Seiko three-link design. The polished inner links contrast elegantly with the brushed outer links, creating a striking balance. From the side, the links appear rounded and polished to perfection, producing a stunning shine that adds to the watch’s overall appeal.

The bracelet is equipped with screwed-in links, making it easy to remove and adjust for a thinner wrist. And if the lack of links feels uncomfortable or looks unbalanced, don’t worry! The clasp offers four micro-adjustment settings, giving you extra flexibility to achieve the perfect fit.

The term “strap monster” refers to a watch’s versatility when it comes to pairing with different straps and bracelets, and the SBGE277 fits this description perfectly. Its design allows it to shine no matter the strap choice.

With the SBGE277’s 21mm band width, strap options may be somewhat limited, but the drilled holes in the lugs make swapping straps a breeze—and, if you’re anything like me, it can become addictive!

On The Wrist

The SBGE277 was one of the larger watches I’ve tested, and that’s exactly what drew me to it. Could I make this horological titan fit comfortably on my smaller wrist?

For anyone with small wrist syndrome, the answer is yes. Thanks to the engineering brilliance of the Shinshu Watch Studio, Grand Seiko has mastered the art of creating timepieces that are “more than meets the eye.”

Despite its 44mm size, this watch feels more like a 40mm on the wrist. I was genuinely dumbfounded by how comfortable it was once I got it strapped on, though it did take me a while to adjust it properly—something I’ll explain shortly.

The angles of the case allow it to sit snugly on any wrist. Thanks to the micro-adjustments, the watch stayed perfectly in place without sliding or shifting around. It felt nothing like I expected, which makes me wonder if the craftsmen and women at Grand Seiko specifically designed this case to accommodate smaller wrists.

The obsidian dial is truly a marvel, and at the moment, it’s my favorite. While I haven’t had the chance to test many watches, the SBGE277 carries a distinct attitude. It’s rugged, bold, and hefty. The more I wore it, the more I felt like this was the least “Grand Seiko” Grand Seiko I’ve worn.

The sporty nature of the SBGE277 allowed me to do something I thought I’d never do with a Grand Seiko—out of pure respect for their artistry and craftsmanship. I changed the strap not once, not twice, but five times, switching between NATO straps, leather, and back to the original bracelet.

I felt like I was committing a sin, but the truth is, the SBGE277 was a fun watch to experiment with (of course, with caution since this was a test run). It’s a stylish brute of elegance, and even when it felt less formal, the intricacies and details always reminded me that this was still a Grand Seiko.

Price

The Grand Seiko SBGE277 is being sold at a retail price of $6,200, with pre-owned models typically ranging from $3,800 to $4,000. This remarkable watch is currently available at Exquisite Timepieces.

Closing Thoughts

Shed any preconceived notion of the Grand Seiko dress watch standard. The SBGE277 is a Grand Seiko masterclass in pushing boundaries. It consistently offers something new to admire every time you wear it. If you plan to get your first GMT or plan to add another one to your collection, stop searching and consider this: the likelihood of wearing a GMT that is as technologically advanced and tough as the SGBE277 is very, very slim. If the black volcanic dial doesn’t pique your interest, the lume doesn’t spark something in you, or the Spring Drive fails to move you, then stick to your run-of-the-mill GMTs. The SBGE277 is a watch for those who know, and if you know, you know. 

To Top