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Flawless engineering and elegant precision are the two support beams on which pieces like the Grand Seiko SBGJ237 rest. The precision of its craftsmanship determines what makes an innovative piece earn that title. Grand Seiko has proven over and over again why it is revered, respected, and referred to as a mammoth in the industry when it comes to its design. 

There is no better embodiment of the brand’s dedication to innovation and functionality than this Sports Collection Hi-Beat 36000 GMT. Taking inspiration from the electrifying Japanese craftsmanship from which it derives while also incorporating cutting-edge technology, this masterpiece serves as an irresistible siren call for watch enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike. 

It is no secret that GMT pieces are rooted in extremely high-quality craftsmanship, seeking to deliver on all fronts as a titan in the industry. Grand Seiko has cracked the code, as their GMT pieces are some of the most luxurious and well-designed pieces on the market. 

As we take you on a journey exploring the intricate mechanics, enchanting design, and otherworldly performance of the Grand Seiko Sport Collection Hi-Beat 36000 GMT, you will see why watch experts and enjoyers alike dub this a truly innovative piece that should be in every collection out there. 

History

Released in August 2020, the SBGJ237 is a welcome addition to the Sport Collection. From diver’s watches to chronographs, automatic spring drives, and more, the Sport Collection fully embodies the core attributes of the Grand Seiko brand—combining legibility and durability in every piece. 

Since its debut, the SBGJ237 has been a staple, highlighting the unparalleled functionality that GMT pieces bring to the table. 

Grand Seiko is by no means a stranger to GMT watches. Some past Seiko GMT pieces include the SBGM221 (which is one of my favorite GMT watches of any brand currently available) and the SBGJ201, with a similar design to the 237–as both use stainless steel for their casing–and the SBGE253, a fellow member of the sports collection, resembling the 237 in nearly everything but color. 

Seiko looks to improve upon every piece they put out, and that stands true to their GMT collection as every design has improved upon the last, bringing us their magnum opus of GMT sports watches in the form of the SBGJ237. 

Case 

The SBJG237’s case, with a diameter of 44.2 mm, may seem large, but the sloped design compensates for the bulkier measurement by significantly slimming down the case. Having a lug-to-lug of 50.6mm and being 14.4mm thick, it is one of the largest GMTs out there, which will naturally cause some complaints. But the proportions are very well-rounded. 

Plus, the case is stunning, using its size as an advantage to fully display its beauty. With a stainless steel material and a rotating 24-hour bezel made of sapphire crystal, this piece strives not only for functionality but also for a rich, demanding presence that radiates luxury and style. 

The high-quality sapphire glass allows you to gaze in wonder at a fully transparent view that lets you soak in the depth and detail of the entire piece. The crown sits solemn and silver, allowing you to easily adjust depending on your timezone. All of the intricate mechanics that optimize the watch’s functionality are tucked away behind a solid case-back with the Grand Seiko logo. The entire case captures the feeling of a midnight walk. 

It is a true sports watch that prioritizes functionality and durability above everything, yet the exquisite finishing gives it that luxurious touch that we’ve come to expect from Grand Seiko. Polished surfaces with a few spots of brushing on top of the lugs already give it an iconic look, but paired with the sleek silver and the white and blue of the bidirectional bezel, you are transported to a beautiful world of light and dark where you decide which color is more dazzling. 

Dial

Moving deeper, we now look at the midnight blue dial. The bold whiteness of the GMT hand provides a symbolistic contrast to the deep, dark blue, which, under certain angles, can appear jet black. I will note that the lighting environment plays a huge part in enhancing the beauty of the dial. 

Under specific lighting, it can appear lighter or darker than it really is, adding an entirely new layer to the aesthetic, which dubs it my favorite part of this piece. The hands themselves perfectly add a sleek and bold flavor as they glide across the surface, with the hour and minute indices swimming comfortably in the dark blue sea of the dial. 

They are shaped exactly how they need to be and remain subtle enough not to overtake any other portion of the design. The bezel and hands are fully lumed, and the 3,6, 9, and 12 indices can also glow in the dark, allowing the wearer to fully use all the piece’s functions, no matter the time of day. The date window resides at the 4 o’clock position, adding to the watch’s sporty persona while not subtracting from the symmetry. 

The design of the dial is reminiscent of the Japanese night sky, a rich dark blue that I can’t state enough is the most gorgeous part of the piece. Grand Seiko seeks to add a touch of personality to every piece, and the magnificent sunburst blue coloring causes the piece to erupt with life. 

Movement

The SBGJ237 uses a Hi-beat automatic movement operating at 36,000 vph, propelling the second’s hand in a very smooth motion, nearly competing with the iconic Spring Drive itself. While not as smooth as the Spring Drive, it comes very close, and the additional perks that the Sport Collection offers far outweigh what it lacks. 

This model incorporates the high-specification movement of the Caliber 9S86, which has an accuracy of +5 -3 seconds per day and a power reserve of 55 hours. What sets the 9S86 apart from other caliber numbers, such as the 9S85, is that the 9S86 offers the GMT function, which is essential to international travelers, assuring them that the accuracy of the time shown directly correlates to their time zone. 

Many tend to label this watch as “a real GMT” because the hour hand can be set independently from the minute, making it easy to unscrew the crown and set your local timezone. Aside from other Grand Seiko models, the SBGJ237 has drawn comparisons to other GMT watches of different brands–most notably the Rolex GMT Master II. 

When comparing anything with Rolex, it is easy to assume that the most iconic name in the watch industry easily outperforms any other competitor. Still, I would argue that the Seiko watch outshines Rolex in many ways. Aside from similar movement, the two GMT watches share a similar-looking bezel and dial. 

However, the craftsmanship and finishing are notably more elegant on the Seiko, making it look more expensive than the Rolex, which speaks volumes considering that the Seiko is less than half the price. Sometimes, being the more expensive option doesn’t always mean that you are the best looking nor the most efficient. Seiko prioritizes high functionality and even higher craftsmanship in every piece they put out, once again reinforcing their impact on the industry. 

Straps

Aside from the dial, the stainless steel bracelet is my favorite feature of this piece. It perfectly balances the watch, contrasting the dark blue of the center with its sleek, silver surface and richly polished details. The bracelet is durable and well-finished. 

It has four micro-adjustments catering to a wider variety of wrist sizes. While the strap’s width may be a bit bulky, coming in at 21mm, the band’s perimeter is 201mm, making it easy to fit any wrist of any size so that you can adjust accordingly. In order to prevent accidental openings, the clasp has two triggers, which you press simultaneously, making it easy to slip on and off. 

The clasp is also engraved with the iconic Grand Seiko logo, and its impeccable satin finish–to no one’s surprise–causes it to fit perfectly with the rest of the piece. The watch fits tightly and comfortably around the wrist, ensuring it doesn’t slide while you’re on the go, and the “tooly nature” of this watch, combined with its elegance, make it a strap magnet. 

The lugs are 21mm wide, making it a little more difficult to find straps, but the drilled lugs make it easier to swap them around. 

On the Wrist

There’s no hiding the fact that this is a 44.2 mm watch with a 50.6 lug to lug–especially on a smaller wrist. It is a large watch, it doesn’t wear small, but it is very well proportioned. The only recommendation I would offer is that if your wrist is smaller than 17 centimeters (around 6.75 inches), then you should definitely try it on in the store first before you make a decision about purchasing. 

On my wrist, it feels great and has the unique feel of a high-quality tool watch, which–undoubtedly–was intended by Grand Seiko. It is bulkier, but it’s not heavy. My wrist wasn’t in pain, and I was able to comfortably move while wearing it. 

Depending on the lighting, The watch also takes on many colors. The bezel and dial can appear dark blue under one light and jet black under another, giving it even more of a stylish flare. Every so often, when I glanced down, I was pleasantly surprised at how it could adjust to any lighting environment, and–as I mentioned before–really set the tone of the entire piece for me.

Legibility is an underrated aspect of the watch. No matter how far away I was looking, and no matter the light level, I could always clearly read everything on the bezel and within the dial, which is an upside to having a thicker casing. I feel the LumiBrite glow-in-the-dark feature came in handy far more often than I thought. 

There is no legibility lost; you can clearly see the bezel, the indices, and the hands, making it easy to tell the time no matter the hour of the day. A true Sport Collection, through and through, with a 200 m water resistance (thanks to the thickness) that allows you to take on any activity without having to worry about damage or corruption, all while looking your best. 

The easily adjustable time zone makes it an essential traveling companion, giving you the freedom to sport this watch wherever you go. In terms of fashion, the sleek, stainless steel makes it easy to pair with anything, while the dark blue of the dial can perfectly match a suit jacket of the same color.  

It is a dressier watch, so be sure to up your fashion game to properly compliment this beauty. The thickness of the case will definitely make it more noticeable than a slimmer piece, which is another plus of having a thicker watch. Wearing it on the outside of your jacket would be my recommendation, as it is too bulky to wear underneath a sleeve. 

While the thickness would be my only minor complaint, there are many ways to take advantage of the size. And with it being such a pretty piece, the size makes it stand out even more. 

Price and availability

You can find the Grand Seiko SBGJ237 from Grand Seiko authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Grand Seiko. A brand-new SBGJ237 costs can be picked up for $6,800. Pre-owned pieces usually range from 4-6k, depending on the condition of the watch. 

Conclusion

The market is always searching for pieces that encapsulate practicality, accuracy, durability, and style. These are pieces that go above and beyond, delivering high-quality craftsmanship and solidifying themselves as a brand that needs to be taken seriously. 

As much creativity as this market has, creating a piece that captures everything a watch lover wants and everything that a high-quality watch needs to function at a high-end level is difficult. But Grand Seiko stepped up to the challenge, perfectly adapting the GMT into a luxurious piece that can compete and excel over the competition. 

Undoubtedly, my personal favorite piece from the sports collection. It proves you no longer have to sacrifice practicality for a truly luxurious aesthetic. Grand Seiko continues to forge a blazing path through the industry with every piece they release, fully embodying their philosophy, which is to pour their heart and soul into every piece in pursuit of discovering the true meaning of time itself. 

As time goes on, watch lovers should be overjoyed by the value that Grand Seiko places on elegant craftsmanship and flawless precision. Their work continues to stand the test of time while maintaining their reputation as revolutionary creators, exceeding expectations, defining the industry, and improving upon every piece.

Sometimes, I think it’s good to try on and test out watches you wouldn’t typically go for. I’m someone who typically leans towards minimalistic dress watches with relatively small case dimensions and clear, colorful dials. 

But what that does mean is that my collection becomes filled with watches that all look the same. Sure, they’re watches that make me happy, but sometimes I wish I had a watch that was different. 

I’m sure you also have those days where you feel a little braver and want to wear something larger or maybe something more masculine but still sophisticated. My advice: try on watches you wouldn’t normally choose. 

It’s for this reason, I’m reviewing the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255. It’s a watch I’d normally give a nod of appreciation to, simply because it’s Grand Seiko, but I wouldn’t necessarily try it on because of its dimensions and overly sporty and masculine design. But here I am, testing out this undeniably handsome, but albeit different to my norm, timepiece. Here’s how it went…

History of the Grand Seiko GMT

If you’re here, then I probably don’t need to waste your time explaining how much of a big deal Grand Seiko is in the luxury watch world. The company kicked things off back in 1960 with the aim to prove that the Japanese could do watchmaking just as well as the Swiss. 

For most of their early history, they were busy creating in-house movements and high-performance dive watches. So much so that they didn’t launch their first GMT model until 2002. 

This model was the SBGM001, and it looked very different to the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255 I’m reviewing today. It was rather dressy with a brightly polished case and an understated cream dial. But it was a game-changer, especially for those who needed to track multiple time zones as they traveled the world but didn’t want to sacrifice on style. 

But here’s the thing: while their GMT watches have always been amazing, many of them – especially in their Sport family – have been rather large and, for some, oversized. 

The sporty GMT models equipped with their ground-breaking Spring Drive or Hi-Beat movements were typically stuck in these 44mm cases, which is huge if you’ve got a smaller wrist (or just prefer a more compact watch). That all changed in 2020 when Grand Seiko dropped a new range of GMT Spring Drive watches in a much more wrist-friendly 40.5mm size. 

These new models didn’t just shrink the case—they also brought in some sweet upgrades, like a fixed ceramic bezel, 200 meters of water resistance, and a new bracelet with a micro-adjust feature. 

The collection debuted four iterations in total: the SBGE253 with a sleek black dial and bezel, the SBGE257 with a vibrant green combo, the SBGE255 with a stunning blue setup (the model I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing), and the SBGE263, a limited edition with an “Eagle” dial made exclusively for the U.S. market.

A Compact Case

One of the standout features of the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255—besides its top-notch caliber, which I’ll dive into soon—is its case dimensions. As I mentioned earlier, this is one of Grand Seiko’s most compact GMT models, yet it still packs an oversized GMT function. 

GMT watches tend to be on the larger side, or at least a bit chunky, because of that extra layer of hands, but this one manages to keep things relatively compact. It measures 40.5mm in diameter and 48.7mm lug-to-lug, though it’s worth noting that the lug-to-lug is closer to 50mm when you include the end links of the bracelet since they don’t articulate. 

It wears pretty well overall, but it does have a solid height of 14.7mm—thanks to the extra GMT complication and the double-domed sapphire crystal, which has anti-reflective treatment on the underside. 

The silhouette of the stainless steel case sticks closely to the look of Grand Seiko’s larger Sport GMT models. Essentially, they’ve just downsized the dimensions to fit more wrist sizes while keeping all the original design DNA intact. 

You’ve got that nice curvature along the sides, with Grand Seiko’s signature Zaratsu polishing on certain elements, which gives the case those crisp, distortion-free mirror finishes. The polishing is mixed with brushed surfaces for a nice touch of visual depth. 

A lot of the case’s real estate is taken up by the bezel, which is made from glossy blue ceramic and features an engraved white 24-hour scale for the second time zone. 

Following the lead of Grand Seiko’s dive watches, the SBGE255’s case has a screw-in case back and a screw-down crown at 4 o’clock. This crown position not only helps with comfort but also adds to the watch’s sporty personality. 

These features combine to give you a solid 200 meters of water resistance, which is perfect for a watch like this, in my opinion. I’ve always thought GMT watches should have at least 100 meters of water resistance—after all, these are the watches you’re taking on your travels, so they need to be able to handle whatever comes their way. 

It’s great to know the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255 will handle a dip in the pool or even a dive in the ocean without a problem on your next holiday.

A “Simple” Dial

Housed beneath the domed sapphire crystal of the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255 watch is a deep blue dial, and one that might initially seem understated, especially compared to some of Grand Seiko’s more intricate designs. 

Many of the watchmaker’s dials often feature complex textures inspired by Japanese culture, but here, they’ve gone for a more straightforward approach with a deep navy metallic sunburst finish. 

Sure, it’s simpler than other Grand Seiko dials, but it’s still got its own charm, fitting perfectly with the watch’s sporty, masculine vibe. The dial’s simplicity actually lets the watch’s functions stand out more. 

Take the sloped chapter ring around the edge, for instance—it’s got 24-hour indices marked at odd numbers, making them easier to read. The scale is also split into navy and silver sections to differentiate between day and night hours. 

Moving inward, there are white printed minute markers and a set of faceted, polished hour markers that are beautifully hand-finished. The indices at 12, 3, 6, and 9 are larger, making the watch easier to read and giving space for small patches of lume to improve visibility in the dark. 

The shape of the hour and minute hands echoes the indices, with both featuring tapering tips and lume of their own. A smooth seconds hand and a bright blue GMT hand round out the set. 

Other dial features include a power reserve indicator between 8 and 9 o’clock, finished in black and white, and a date window at 4 o’clock, which replaces the hour marker to keep the dial clean and concise. 

The applied GS logo sits proudly at 12 o’clock, while the lettering at 6 o’clock denotes the Spring Drive GMT movement. The “GMT” part of the text is highlighted in the same blue as the GMT hand. 

Naturally, since the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255 watch has some lume on the dial, I had to test it in the dark. I’m happy to report it performs well. While it doesn’t have as much lume as a Grand Seiko dive watch, the subtle green glow is perfectly in line with its sporty aesthetic, adding just the right touch of luminous readability without going overboard.

A Spring Drive Movement

I’ve mentioned it before, but I’ll say it again: Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive movements are one of the greatest achievements in watchmaking. For those unfamiliar with the Spring Drive, it’s a unique movement that blends the best of both mechanical and quartz technology. It uses a traditional mainspring to store energy, just like a mechanical watch, but it also incorporates a quartz oscillator for precise timekeeping. This combination means you get the smooth, sweeping motion of the second hand and an incredible rate of accuracy. 

For example, the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255 is powered by the Caliber 9R66, which is tested to be accurate to +/- 15 seconds a month, or about +/- 1 second per day. The movement is also a “true” GMT. 

\Unlike some GMT watches that simply add a second timezone on top of a standard movement (often referred to as an “office GMT”), the 9R66 is a true GMT. This means it has a dedicated mechanism for tracking a second time zone so you can set the GMT hand independently in one-hour increments, which is especially handy for frequent travelers. 

It also means you can adjust the GMT hand without affecting the local time or the minute hand, making it easy to keep track of multiple time zones. 

Additionally, the Caliber 9R66 boasts a power reserve of 72 hours or three days. That means you can take the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255 watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on Monday morning without worrying about it losing time. 

While I can’t show you the movement directly since it’s hidden behind a screw-down case back adorned with the Grand Seiko lion logo, rest assured that it’s beautifully decorated. I’ll forgive the lack of an exhibition case back since we’re getting an enhanced 200-meter water resistance instead.

A Bracelet with Micro Adjustments

The Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255 watch comes with a well-suited three-link bracelet that attaches neatly to the case at 20mm. It’s a perfect match in terms of proportions and style, fitting the sporty aesthetic just right. The stainless steel features mostly brushed surfaces with a few polished accents to match the finishing of the case perfectly. 

One of the best features of this bracelet – at least for me – is the inclusion of micro adjustment. It has four micro-adjust slots, which means you can get that perfect fit no matter how your wrist size changes throughout the day. 

And let’s face it, micro adjustment is a game-changer, especially for a GMT watch. When you’re on holiday, you might go from a sweaty outdoor adventure, where your wrist swells up, to a cooler indoor setting where it shrinks back to normal. Being able to tweak the bracelet’s fit on the fly is super handy in these situations. 

If you’re not a fan of the metal bracelet, or if you’re traveling in warmer climates and prefer something more comfortable, you can easily swap it out for any 20mm strap. There’s a huge range of 20mm straps that would look great on this watch. My first thought was a dark brown calfskin leather band, which could give it a nice, sophisticated look. The drilled lugs make swapping straps a breeze, so you’re not stuck with just one option. The bracelet closes with a twin-button folding clasp, which features the Grand Seiko logo in relief.

On-Wrist Experience 

When I first pulled the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255 watch out of its box, I was worried it might still be too big for my five-and-a-half-inch wrist. But I was pleasantly surprised. 

While it is a relatively thick watch—something that’s common with most GMTs—I found the wearability to be excellent. This is largely thanks to the 40.5mm case width and the curved lugs that gently hug the wrist. 

In terms of fit, I’d say it would comfortably suit wrists ranging from 6 to 7.5 inches. And even if you have a wrist that’s a bit smaller or larger, you could still pull it off depending on your personal style and preferences. The design does a great job of balancing presence with practicality, which can be hard to do with a GMT watch. 

Visually, it’s a stunner. The Grand Seiko Sport GMT Spring Drive SBGE255 exudes a confident, masculine charm that I know many of you will enjoy. It’s versatile enough to transition seamlessly from formal to casual settings. 

Whether you’re dressed in a sharp suit or rocking a t-shirt and jeans, this watch fits right in. Its aesthetic is particularly well-suited for travelers who often find themselves moving between different dress codes. The ability to switch effortlessly between casual and formal wear makes it the ideal companion for a variety of situations.

Price & Availability 

The Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255 watch retails for $6,200 new at authorized Grand Seiko retailers like Exquisite Timepieces. You might also be able to find it for a little cheaper on pre-owned or second-hand marketplaces. I saw a few examples for around $4,500 to $5,000. The model is not a limited or special edition and remains a current mainstay in the Japanese watchmaker’s Sports collection.

Conclusion

Overall, the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255 is a stunning watch, and as I mentioned in the introduction, it’s a perfect example of why you should always be open to exploring styles that aren’t typically your go-to. 

I’ve genuinely fallen for this piece. It’s bold and masculine in its design yet manages to be compact enough to fit comfortably on nearly any wrist size. Plus, it’s technically unbeatable in terms of functionality and precision – I’ll never not be impressed by the Grand Seiko Spring Drive movement.

But honestly, one of my favorite features of the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255 is the bracelet. Mainly because it’s one of just a few GS bracelets that actually comes with micro adjustment! This model’s integration of this feature is a significant improvement and one that will definitely be appreciated by anyone who values a perfect fit.

I honestly have no complaints about this watch. It’s a well-rounded, well-sized package that combines style, functionality, and comfort. My only piece of advice is to visit your local authorized Grand Seiko retailer and try it on for yourself. Seeing how it looks and feels on your wrist will help you appreciate its true charm and make sure it’s the right fit for you.

Among the many collections and unique styles Grand Seiko is known for, the SBGY009 is a universal choice for watch enthusiasts. More notably, this is a limited edition watch with only 1,500 worldwide, all with their own serial number.

As any watch lover might expect, you’ll find numerous details about the SBGY009 that will stand out. My aim is to cover the necessities on top of the fine print you might have missed without an on-wrist experience.

Blending the traditional approach of dark and white material tones really helps the watch pop on any occasion. For the dedicated professional to everyday outings, this comprehensive Grand Seiko SBGY009 review has the details that matter most.

A Backstory on the SBGY009

Existing as a commemoration of the original Grand Seiko 44GS from 1967, the SBGY009 is a limited edition timepiece. The brand isn’t new to limited edition designs, but this isn’t one you’ll be able to grab just anywhere. This particular design is celebrating the 55th anniversary of the original and is hailed as a descendant of what coined the term “Grand Seiko Style.”

You’ll find that many aspects of the design’s history are found in this watch, but you’ll see many design angles that make it a one-of-a-kind. Although the watch was released in Q3 of 2022, it’s still a topic of discussion throughout the industry.

While the standalone elements of this watch offer a fresh look, the core of this watch’s design has decades of history. It’s found in Grand Seiko’s Heritage Collection and easily finds its own identity among similar watch varieties.

In a similar fashion to many other Grand Seiko watches, the SBGY009 takes inspiration from natural and cultural elements. The dial itself finds inspiration from “Tsuki Tenshin,” which refers to a full moon sitting at its peak. Whereas the sunray pattern refers to the moon’s shine, and the overall bold color of the watch represents the night sky.

Aside from how this watch looks on the surface, breaking into how it’s manufactured offers more wonder than anything else. Even if the watch isn’t perfect for everyone, it’s more than suitable for most due to the level of thought that went into its engineering. There’s no argument that the watch looks great, but I love the inner workings and the mechanical symphony they play.

The Case That Boasts Grand Seiko Heritage

Hailing a compact design with a particularly thin look, the case is suitable for a wide range of individuals. From small to large wrists, it looks form-fitting enough for most wearers, with the help of some minor adjustments if needed. At a glance, the case is 40mm in diameter, boasting a thin side profile of 10.5mm.

It follows the traditional style of the Heritage Collection, and it’s loved for its sharp geometric overall look. As we all know, materials matter too, which you won’t have to worry about thanks to the reliability and style of stainless steel.

Other notable features of the SBGY009 case include Zaratsu polishing across the surface for a mirror-esque look, as well as several brushed accents. The thin case is made possible due to the thin engineering of the Spring Drive caliber 9R31 movement. 

It’s also accompanied by box-domed sapphire crystal for pristine viewing quality and durability. For another focal point, the lug-to-lug distance is 46.2mm, which is a complimentary choice for the slim features of the watch.

Although the surface provides a mirror-like finish, the inside of the surface is anti-reflective to improve legibility in any lighting. Flip the watch upside down, and you have a whole other feat of engineering to marvel at.

The caseback is a sapphire exhibition, which means you get the treat of viewing the mechanical beauty of spring-driven watches. In addition to the serial number, you can find “Limited Edition” engraved on the back of the case as well. 

You won’t find a multifunctional bezel for this watch, but it does blend seamlessly with the rest of the design. From every angle, the bezel remains uniform to the whole look of the SBGY009, adding to the professional sentiment it carries. For the crown, Grand Seiko keeps it smooth and simple. The rotations are seamless, near silent, and create a fixation for buttery mechanics in most wearers.

A Face You Won’t Forget

The deep navy blue color of the watch dial is so dense it almost looks jet black. Of course, lighting can change perception, but the dial is undeniably bold and equally minimal. Taking inspiration from the night sky above the Shinshu mountains, it’s contrasted by a finite sunray pattern.

Not only does this pattern offer a great minimalist sheen in the perfect light, but the precision in design is beautiful enough on its own. Every aspect of the dial design is intentional, from reflecting nature’s best to making the watch sparkle through clever geometry.

As you watch time pass, the standalone gold of the seconds hand takes the lead. It’s also joined by the gold Grand Seiko logo for a couple of tame yet vibrant accents. There is also plenty to be said about the sharp and precise look of the minute and hour hands. 

They match the stainless steel of the rest of the watch while offering a direct and gorgeous contrast to the gold. In the same vein, this small change in colorway between the hands makes it easy to read and discern from each other. 

The minute track takes a traditional approach and makes an eye-popping statement in contrast to the deep blue background. It’s very easy to read, even in low light, and it does a great job of complimenting the rest of the dial without simply distracting. From my standpoint, simplicity is always better, and Grand Seiko knows how to make luxury stand out without doing too much externally.

What Makes the Grand Seiko SBGY009 Tick

A fan favorite for many, including myself, the Grand Seiko SBGY009 features a Spring Drive caliber 9R31 movement. Manufactured in-house, every movement is hand-wound and is widely known for its efficient engineering and flawless execution.

You won’t find a date window included, but this is likely a smart choice as it would take away from the bold look of the dial. To help keep a uniform and symmetrical design, the power reserve indicator can be found on the movement itself.

Here are a few other key features of this movement that shouldn’t be overlooked:

There are several key features of this movement that shouldn’t be overlooked. A few highlights include its 72-hour power reserve and accuracy with a ±1 second per day and ±15 per month. 

The watch is perfect for those who appreciate a slim fit, not to mention the movement boasts 30 jewels as well. More notably, the movement is found in other Grand Seiko designs, but this is the first time it’s found in a 44GS case.

It’s always finer details like this that make one watch stand out from others. Aside from the historical relevance of this watch, there are several design aspects that aren’t found in any other Grand Seiko watch.

The thin, silent, and reliable functionality of Spring Drive movements from Grand Seiko is a big part of what makes the SBGY009 possible. It’s no secret why the case and dial are major focal points of any watch, but how it feels is just as important. Everyone wants the case to feel like a solid fit, but some of this comes down to the quality of the strap as well.

Classic Choices for Wristwear

With a quick look, there are several angles of this watch that exude traditional qualities from Grand Seiko, as well as watchmaking in general. The watch strap is a standing example of subtle yet pristine quality going hand in hand.

It matches the dark blue tone of the dial and is made from strong crocodile leather. You’ll find the strap comes with a nice shine to it, in addition to a soft leather calfskin feel on the inside. With the minor accent of a matching stainless steel clasp, the watch looks even bolder than it would on its own.

Even better, the clasp is a push-button release, so you’ll never end up struggling to put it on or take it off. Once again, Grand Seiko pays attention to the tiny details to effectively mix style and easy functionality. The band width sits at 19mm, making it more than suitable for several adjustments and wrist sizes.

Smaller details include minor padding near the lugs and faint navy blue stitching to blend in with the strap. Many agree it can be harder to find additional straps that will fit. Then again, the factory strap included is a perfect match for the anniversary design of this watch. 

Personal preferences are one thing, but tampering with a limited edition like this should come with a second thought. While design specifications can surely paint a vivid picture, actually wearing the watch is an entirely different take.

What it’s Like to Wear the Grand Seiko SBGY009

First and foremost, this watch would be a go-to choice for any professional setting I find myself in. In the same vein, it’s subtle and neutral enough to mix well with many kinds of casual outfits. Any Grand Seiko can be seen as a statement piece, especially if worn correctly.

While the 46.2mm may seem to be a bit large, it’s actually a perfect balance with the watch’s other features. Easily readable and exuding impressive feats in slim engineering, it’s great for all-day wear without feeling overly light.

It has a dense yet comfortable and well-manufactured feel to it, and the crocodile leather isn’t bothersome in the slightest. Aside from comfort alone, crocodile leather isn’t too resilient, making for an easy wear that won’t feel too stiff.

I have several other personal notes I’d like to point out. The angular construction adds to the slim look and benefits the form-fitting feel, in my opinion. It’s subtle at a glance but surprisingly colorful and vibrant, with the perfect ray of light. 

Even more so, reading time is a smooth experience that features a seemingly endless and seamless glide. A small detail but noticeable nonetheless, the size-to-weight ratio is the perfect balance for my preferences.

The motion of the watch makes for a satisfyingly smooth experience. It won’t tick so loud that it draws attention, and it does a great job of catching the eye for a nice surprise throughout the day. 

I feel that luxury watches that accomplish the most with a minimal approach are at the top of watchmaking. Grand Seiko has done this on more than one occasion. Once you take in the mechanical details of the SBGY009, it starts to make sense what makes the limited edition such a unique grab.

Considering the thickness of the watch is only 10.9mm, it stands as a stellar choice for anyone who appreciates a thin timepiece. You might associate thin and lightweight with cheap, but Grand Seiko engineering is anything but. 

Regardless of your time with luxury watches, it’s always important to know where to look for them. Taking into account that there are only 1,500 SBGY009s in existence, it might not always be the easiest find.

Cost and Availability

For those looking for a brand new Grand Seiko SBGY009 at retail price, the most common price point is $8,100. This is highly affordable, considering the brand, engineering, and overall style of the timepiece. Even though material items can lower in value over time, the limited edition nature of this watch will keep it going strong for years.

Nevertheless, preowned is a large part of the luxury watch industry, and the SBGY009 goes for a little over $5,000 in this realm. This can definitely vary depending on multiple circumstances, but it’s the common general figure for pre-owned at this time.

However, price is just one objective matter, whereas details surrounding availability are just as crucial. Regardless of the luxury watch in question, you want to work with a retailer who understands the industry. This ensures you get the best quality, price, and customer service all in one. 

Not to mention the importance of authenticity, especially in an industry such as this. If you’re interested in grabbing the SBGY009 for yourself, Exquisite Timepieces is the only retailer you need. Between years of industry experience and extensive hands-on knowledge, Exquisite Timepieces guarantees you get what you’re looking for.

Final Thoughts

The Grand Seiko name is known all over the world. Even if you’re privy to the name, you might be surprised by the sheer size of their collections. Due to this, you might miss a few releases here or there, and the limited edition SBGY009 is one you should know about.

Maybe you’ve known about the design, or this is your first time hearing about it; the details should make you consider adding it to your collection. There’s always another watch out there, but there will likely never be another Grand Seiko limited edition SBGY009.

Unless you’re a bit of a watch snob, you’ll agree when I say there are fantastic watches to be had at all price points across the market. If we’re being completely honest here, a great deal of those sitting in the affordable sector don’t get half the recognition they deserve. Some watches below the $1k mark can keep better time than those costing just short of $30k.

If you’re a true connoisseur, you’ll have the ability to appreciate the beauty found in all classes of watches. It’s a little like being an artist or an aesthete. To interpret a piece of art, one must appreciate that beauty comes in many forms, and what is a work of art to one may not be to another’s taste. Watchmaking is similar. 

There are many interpretations of the wristwatch, and while some may argue that the Rolex Daytona is overpriced, others will pay an arm and a leg for one.

From the cheap and cheerful Casio of the watch world to the highly coveted Patek Philippe Nautilus or the AP Royal Oak – one thing is for sure. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. But this doesn’t explain the reason behind one frequently pondered question. Why are some watches so expensive?

To answer this question, we need to explore several factors in a considerable level of detail. We should look at manufacturing techniques, materials, brand provenance, exclusivity, and how supply versus demand impacts the desirability of a watch and how highly that brand is regarded.

Looking at all these elements will provide solid answers to some burning questions you may have before setting out on your watch-collecting journey. But more importantly, by the time you reach the end of this article, you’ll have formed some sort of an opinion on whether expensive watches are really worth it. After all, can you really put a price on horological love?

Let’s dig in deep and look at some factors that determine the price of a luxury watch and why. 

Are Watches Really That Expensive?

I mean, it’s a debate that could last all day. Like anything in life, the price spectrum for watches, both the luxury and designer kind, is huge. And how do you even define what “expensive” is anyway? Doesn’t it depend on who you ask?

One person could spend $100k on a classic sports car and only take it for a spin twice a year. To him, that car is worth its weight in gold because it’s been his ultimate dream since the age of 10. Ask him what he’s willing to spend on a watch, however, and you may get a very different answer depending on whether watches are his passion or just a practical necessity.

The truth is, if you’re not a watch person, you won’t want to spend good money on one. In that same vein, if your grail watch just so happens to be an expensive Rolex or Patek, you’re going to jump through hoops to find the money for one. You’ll make it work because whatever the cost, it’s a small price to pay for happiness. 

But let’s keep it real. For the majority of us enthusiasts, premium, high-end, luxury timepieces aren’t a daily purchase, and we often need to consider how much we can and want to spend on one before splashing out.

What Makes Luxury Watches So Expensive 

Big watches mean big bucks. What I mean by that is if you want to wear an industry-respected name on your wrist, it’s going to cost you. Money doesn’t just grow on trees, either, so understanding what makes a watch expensive will help you factor in everything you need before taking the plunge. Here are a few reasons why some watches are so costly.

Research and Development

Technology like Montblanc’s Summit, Hublot’s Big Bang Tourbillon, and TAG Heuer’s lab-grown diamonds don’t just appear overnight. It takes many leading brands in the industry years to innovate new design concepts. 

Manufacturers like Rolex produce their own in-house case materials, while British brand Bremont opened up a 5,000 sq ft state-of-the-art Manufacturing & Technology Centre just a couple of years ago. The facilities act as a museum, a workshop, and a research center for trialing new concepts.

Aside from the amount of time it takes a brand to produce a watch, R&D also greatly determines the expense of a watch. The more advanced watchmaking becomes, the more the collector expects it. 

Watchmakers spend millions of dollars a year on perfecting new manufacturing techniques to keep watches exciting and interesting. New movements, new materials, and improving staff training are just some of the ways they may need to invest their money.

It’s also worth noting that brands will have more than one project on the go. Sometimes watch movements can take several years to develop, and not all will be successful. Whether a hit or not, these costs all need to be worked into the price of the company’s watches.

Working With In-House Components

Quite often, budget brands and micro brands aiming their designs at smaller audiences will keep their costs down by outsourcing their watch components. This means that anything from a movement to a case or even a set of dial hands can be sourced from third parties. It’s not uncommon for brands to source components from Asia or have their watches assembled in China, either.

ETA and Miyota movements are often outfitted in affordable watches. You may also recognize the name Sellita being used when researching the movement inside a watch. In other cases, brands may modify a mainstream movement and re-label it.

While there is plenty of snobbery surrounding the topic of in-house movements being more reliable than mainstream movements, there is a reason why Sellita and ETA movements have been around for donkey’s years. They are tried-and-tested movements renowned for their reliability and precision.

Of course, there is no guarantee that in-house components like case materials and movements are going to perform better than third-party components. However, some collectors prefer a vertically integrated company. I guess it’s the reassurance that one brand is solely responsible for the design, manufacture, and assembly of those components. Potentially, this means that there is only one place to go to get a service or repair carried out. But in some ways, this serves to make a watch feel more exclusive and elite.

The Handcrafted Touch

Craftsmanship gets expensive very quickly. As you move further into the luxury realm of timekeeping, you see less machine work. The skilled labor behind the making of a watch is lengthy and meticulous. Many watchmakers working for a reputable company undergo years of training to reach the level at which they can be considered skilled craftsmen of Haute Horlogerie.

There’s probably a lot less science involved in watchmaking than you think. To become a true artisan, watchmaking becomes more intuitive than anything else. There’s a ton of skill behind an expensive watch. In this line of work, even the tiniest of imperfections can ruin a design.

The decorative side of watchmaking is just as impressive. Time-honored techniques and traditions are learned at the bench and, sometimes, take decades to perfect. Elaborate engravings, chamfering, and engine-turned dials are what you pay for and expect to see in a high-end watch.

Dial & Case Finishing

Similar to the topic of craftsmanship, the finishing on a dial and case is one way of highlighting the exponential difference between a budget watch and a high-end timepiece. Surprisingly, the case material itself rarely reflects in the cost of a watch. 

Moreover, it is the care and attention that goes into it that does. Take the steel sports watch as an example. The integrated bracelet design is a highly coveted one that, despite being made from a more affordable material, can sell for a much higher price than its gold counterpart.

Another example is Rado. The Swiss brand produces its own high-tech ceramic. The product is incredibly difficult and expensive to produce, and the brand does it all in-house, yet they’re still very reasonably priced.

 On the other hand, a ceramic watch by Audemars Piguet can run you up a staggering $98k! But Audemars Piguet is considered part of the Holy Trinity in horology, alongside Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe – two other expensive watch brands – so go figure!

The complexity of case finishing across the market varies massively, and this, in turn, reflects in the price of a watch. A perfectly round and polished case is much easier to produce than a case with compound curves, executed in a mix of brushed and polished surfaces. 

A lot of these finishes are still done by hand. Even a degree of inconsistency associated with hand finishing adds character to a watch. Collectors often favor (and will pay a high price for) artisan handwork over machined perfection.

Guilloche dials, hand-painted enamel displays, and signature dial patterns on a watch face also reflect a high price tag. The engine-turned dials you see in a Breguet watch, for example, are praised and celebrated amongst watch connoisseurs. And the Tapisserie dial of an AP watch is rooted in tradition, just like Clous de Paris (or hobnail) dials are synonymous with watches like the Calatrava from Patek Philippe.

The Importance of Attention to Detail

Similar to the finish in a case or on a dial, meticulous finishes demand a higher price and reflect a higher level of work. Attention to detail in a watch showcases a level of artistry and complexity that you simply can’t find in a budget watch.

The dedication involved in creating a unique timepiece, bound by a learned skill, naturally imbues a watch with intrinsic value. For many collectors, appreciating the meticulous finishes in a watch is all part of the appeal of acquiring these coveted items.

Wearing a Status Symbol

Luxury watches are sometimes viewed as a symbol of status and wealth. To a great degree, they’re an extension of the wearer’s personality. Being a watch enthusiast myself, I often look at what a person is wearing on his wrist. 

Call me “judgy”, and I certainly wouldn’t recommend this method to determine whether someone is a good human or not, but I like to think it’s a horophile’s way of instinctively sniffing out someone with equally good taste.

Also, historically, watches have always been an indication of someone’s wealth. When you’ve experienced any level of success in life, the natural thing to want to do is buy a product that reflects it in some way. 

While some investments can be flashy, a watch is a rather understated way to show the world you’re doing well in life. More importantly, though, they’re an expression of a person’s identity.

What may be an impulsive buy for someone with plenty of cash to splash may be a careful and considered purchase for another. Either way, wearing a status symbol comes at a price, and part of the enjoyment of owning one is reaching the milestone at which you can become an owner of a truly coveted timepiece.

The Exclusivity Factor  

The price of a watch can increase when you pay for a revered name. More often than not, this element goes hand-in-hand with wearing a status symbol – something that is vastly recognized as a coveted timepiece. 

Some of the most collectible timepieces are the rarest and most expensive and come with a high price tag. Worn by those in niche watch-collecting circles, the Patek Philippe fans and Vacheron Constantin enthusiasts of the world enjoy the feel of exclusivity that an expensive watch brings.

Micro brands, to an extent, can also offer this experience. What many don’t realize is that lots of micro brands largely make up their watches with catalog parts. Cases, dials, bracelets, end links, clasps, hands, indices, and crowns are taken off the shelf and custom-made, allowing wearers a level of control over the customization element of their watch. 

While the parts themselves are not “exclusive” in the grand scheme of things, a collector can enjoy a watch produced to his spec by paying for the design and tooling of a watch over buying a finished design.

Next, I’ll talk about supply and how low quantities of a watch can feed into the exclusivity factor and its desirability among enthusiasts. But it’s important to acknowledge that a lot of the time, it’s a culmination of several factors bound together in a watch design that makes it so expensive.

Supply Vs Demand

One of the contributing factors that make watches so expensive is the quantity of the product, how long it takes to manufacture, and how many collectors demand it. These three factors are all inextricably linked.

The imbalance of supply vs demand leads to an increase in the desirability of a watch. Ridiculous waiting lists can rack up as brands try to manage the supply of watches to customers. It also gives a company more scope to increase prices. Those who manage to acquire a long-awaited timepiece may sell it for a much higher price to a collector who is happy to pay it.

Some watches are more in demand than others, which highlights the importance of resale value on the pre-owned market later down the line. Some investment-worthy timepieces appreciate in value as time goes on. Others lose value. 

Resale will always fluctuate, but generally speaking, iconic watches produced in small batches or limited edition quantities sell for a higher price on the secondary market than their initial retail price.

The Impact of Marketing Costs

The story behind a brand and its provenance pays for itself in terms of marketing. If a watchmaker has an intriguing and revered history, the watches sell themselves. After all, timepieces are symbols of ingenuity and a testament to the relentless pursuit of horological beauty. Standing the test of time throughout the years and surviving turbulent historical landmarks like the Quartz Crisis, for example, goes a long way in securing a solid fan base.

All brands want to sell their watches. Typically, some will sponsor prestigious events that reflect their values in a particular field, be that business, sports, or diving. Some examples may include football championships, tennis tournaments, or Formula 1 and yachting teams. Companies like TAG Heuer and Breitling put particular focus on having a family of brand ambassadors that promote and sell “the lifestyle”.

Marketing is often the final step in the watchmaking chain, but it’s an important one. Since brands need to factor the costs of marketing into their products, we are inevitably paying for the advert that made us buy it in the first place.

Should You Buy an Expensive Watch?

When it comes to expensive watches, the proof is in the pudding. You either feel strongly about luxury watches and their meticulous craftsmanship and beauty, or you don’t. The majority of passionate collectors share the same opinion – that they are worth every penny.   

Expensive timepieces and horological innovation go hand-in-hand. These beautiful instruments are works of art and mechanical masterpieces all rolled into one.

Being able to appreciate the intricacies of a timepiece by flipping it over and admiring the working movement is not a learned skill. Moreover, it’s an innate, deep-seated affection for timekeeping and the desire to keep the tradition of this craft alive. 

Those who appreciate the complexities of crafting an authentic watch and the time and skill it takes to complete one will share the opinion that expensive watches are certainly worth it.

Wrapping Up

A watch does not instantly become expensive the moment you move from a quartz battery to a mechanical movement. There are so many other factors at play that control and determine the price of a watch. 

Sometimes, there are more obvious signs as to why you’d pay more for one luxury watch over another. Brand name and provenance, along with materials, are just a few examples.

Other factors are more subtle, but when you reach the stage in your watch-collecting journey where you can look deeper into a design and appreciate these small details, the price-to-value logic becomes more of a rational thing.

You’ve seen it before: a green backdrop, the iconic crown, the gold embossed lettering. Rolex is arguably the most recognizable brand in the world. Unfortunately, such notoriety and success come with its downsides. 

And though they say imitation is the greatest form of flattery, nobody wants to spend many thousands of dollars on a watch only to later find out—or perhaps they never will—that they were duped into buying a fake. 

And yet, in my relatively short time as a watch enthusiast, I’ve spotted more fake Rolexes than I’d care to admit. But here at Exquisite Timepieces, we are in the business of not only selling watches but of protecting our customers. We care about preserving the industry from the duplicitous sellers that have spread across the industry like a virus. 

So sit tight, grab your favorite drink, and let’s discuss the surefire ways to spot a fake Rolex.

Why There Are So Many Fake Rolex Watches

There is no way to accurately quantify the amount of fake Rolex watches in the wild. Even the most conservative of estimations claim that for every genuine Rolex, there are between 10 and 20 counterfeit ones. With Rolex making about 1 million watches per year, there are likely hundreds of millions of fake Rolex watches in the world. 

So yeah—I don’t need to tell you that there are a lot of fake Rolexes. If you take a walk through Chinatown in NYC, you’ll come across various vendors selling imitation Rolex watches. You might have an uncle Tony who loves to brandish a fake, iced-out Presidential. Or maybe curiosity has gotten the best of you, and you’ve browsed the loads of fakes available via the online Asian markets.

Rolex isn’t just a watch—it’s a symbol of success, elegance, and prestige. The brand’s global reputation has created a high demand, which counterfeiters are more than eager to exploit. The sheer volume of fakes on the market stems from the allure of owning a luxury timepiece without the accompanying price tag. 

The average person might recognize a few well-known Swiss watch brands, but almost everyone can identify a Rolex. In a world where people often flaunt success and wealth—sometimes without the means to back it up—social media is overflowing with pretenders. Wearing a fake Rolex is just another form of that same illusion, a symbol of the desire to appear successful at any cost.

12 Ways to Tell If a Rolex is Real

Here are 12 indicators you can look at to make sure your Rolex is real.

Reputable Dealer

Because of the sheer amount of fake Rolex watches, it is of paramount importance to do your homework before purchasing a Rolex watch—new or used. The internet is a great black hole of misinformation and shady sellers, so if considering a new Rolex, always go through an authorized dealer of Rolex. This is the best way to ensure you are getting a 100% authentic Rolex, along with its full warranty and brand experience. 

If you have a question about that old Rolex sitting in your sock drawer, an AD can also provide authentication services. It’s equally important to consider the seller when considering a pre-owned Rolex. Here at Exquisite Timepieces, all of our pre-owned watches go through rigorous testing and authentication to ensure that your buying experience is as worry-free as possible. We have a wonderful collection of pre-owned Rolex watches for sale on our website. Whatever you choose, owning a piece of the crown is a great way to enjoy the wonders of horology!

Watch Price

Have you walked into a Rolex boutique and tried to negotiate the price on a watch—that is if they even have the watch you are looking for, which is nearly impossible in this day and age? They would laugh you out of the store. Rolex does not negotiate prices. You pay the MSRP, period. 

So, if someone is offering you a Daytona for 50% of the retail price, it’s fake. If the price seems too good to be true, it’s fake. Always have realistic expectations when it comes to purchasing highly sought-after luxury goods. Ask yourself: Why would someone be offering this watch at such a deep discount?

Watch Weight

A reliable way to spot a fake Rolex is by checking its weight—authentic Rolex watches are almost always heavier than counterfeits. This is because genuine Rolex timepieces are constructed from premium materials, such as 904L stainless steel, 18k gold, or 950 platinum in more recent models. Older Rolex watches might feature 9k or 14k gold, gold shell, or 316L stainless steel before the brand transitioned to 904L steel. 

On the other hand, counterfeit Rolexes are typically made with cheaper, lower-quality materials, making them lighter, less durable, and generally inferior in condition compared to the real thing. 

Movement

One of the most distinctive features of a Rolex is its movement. The second hand of a Rolex should move smoothly, almost gliding across the dial. If the second hand ticks or stutters, that’s a strong indicator of a fake. New Rolex movements go through stringent standards, achieving the certification of Superlative Chronometer, demonstrating precision of +/- 2 seconds per day. 

If you have a newly purchased Rolex that doesn’t achieve this level of accuracy, you either have a watch in need of service or a fake. A professional watchmaker can confirm whether the movement inside the watch is genuine. However, with the advent of super clones, black market manufacturers are crossing their t’s and dotting their i’s when it comes to recreating a movement that at least appears to be indistinguishable from a genuine Rolex. 

Caseback

Most Rolex casebacks are pretty simple, usually just a combination of brushed or polished metal with no engravings, logos, or fancy designs. Unlike some other luxury watch brands, you won’t typically find a clear window on the back of a Rolex to show off the movement. But there are a few exceptions—some vintage models and special editions might break the rule. 

Plus, with newer models like the platinum Daytona, Rolex has started to offer exhibition casebacks, giving a peek at the intricate inner workings. And for authenticity, Rolex often includes a green hologram sticker on the caseback with a crown, serial number, and a cool 3D “ROLEX” pattern that shifts depending on the viewing angle.

Cyclops

Many Rolex models with a date display include a feature known as the Cyclops lens. This is a convex lens positioned directly over the date window on the watch’s crystal. The lens magnifies the date by 2.5 times, enhancing its legibility. Like the watch’s crystal, the Cyclops lens is crafted from sapphire, making it both durable and scratch-resistant. Many fake Rolex watches have an incorrectly placed and magnified cyclops lens. 

I once had a buddy of mine show me his “brand new” Submariner. When I analyzed the dial, my eye was immediately drawn to the cyclops lens. The date was not magnified enough—or at all really—and the cyclops was just a hair off-center.

Crown Markings

Make no mistake: Rolex is meticulous about their crowns and their design and execution. On many fake models, the etched crown is usually smoother or flatter to the touch, while on a genuine Rolex, they protrude outward. A professional will often scrutinize the crown markings with a jewelers loop, not only to ensure that it is crisp and sharp but also to check the spacings of any markings beneath the crown. Rolex crowns have dots under the logo that indicate the watch’s water resistance and specific variations that coincide with case material. 

Three dots mean it has a Triplock crown, giving it extra water resistance, usually up to 300 meters, and are found on models like the Submariner, Sea-Dweller, and some GMT-Master IIs. Two dots signal a Twinlock crown, typically providing up to 100 meters of water resistance, often seen on models like the Datejust or Oyster Perpetual. There’s also a single dot or a line on some crowns, usually indicating a variation of the Twinlock crown, often found on vintage or less water-resistant models. The number of dots varies depending on the model and its water resistance features.

Serial Numbers

Every Rolex watch has a unique serial number engraved with precision between the lugs at the 6 o’clock position. The engraving should be sharp, clear, and not etched or printed. In fact, Rolex engraves serial numbers using high-precision laser engraving techniques, and counterfeiters often overlook this as most people don’t even know how to remove the bracelet on their watch to check the quality of the engraving! 

Furthermore, the serial number should match the documentation that comes with the watch, though it’s worth considering that fake watch manufacturers often source genuine serial numbers to inscribe on their watches. Rolex can assist in cross-referencing serial numbers to help verify your watch, but it’s worth mentioning that serial numbers alone are not enough to authenticate a timepiece. Most of the time, Rolex will have to open the watch and look at the movement.

Dial Details

Distinguishing a real Rolex from a counterfeit just by examining the dial can be quite difficult. Some fakes have atrocious dials with mismatched text, scratched indices, specs of dust, incorrect fonts, or some other example of subpar manufacturing. Keep in mind, folks, Rolex has been in the horology business for a long time. 

They have very stringent manufacturing standards, and you can expect a watch that is visually perfect to the human eye. And while most fakes can be quickly spotted via dial details, they are getting better and better, with the newest super clones being nearly perfect. When in doubt, always have a dial inspected by a professional!

Hands

When checking if a Rolex is fake, the hands can reveal a lot. First, take a look at the second hand. On a real Rolex, it moves smoothly around the dial, almost like it’s gliding. If you see a noticeable ticking motion, that’s a red flag. Next, check how the hands align with the markers. They should point exactly where they’re supposed to—any misalignment is suspicious. 

Also, pay attention to the shape and finish of the hands. Rolex hands are made with precision, so they should have smooth edges and a flawless finish. If they look rough or poorly finished, something’s off. The material is another clue. Authentic Rolex hands are made from high-quality materials like gold or polished steel. If they look cheap or show signs of tarnish, that’s a bad sign.

If the watch has luminescent hands, the glow should be even and well-applied. Sloppy or uneven lume can indicate a fake. I say “can” because I had a friend who had a brand new Submariner, purchased from an AD, with a tiny spec of lume imperfection at the 7 o’clock indice. 

I assured my buddy that Rolex would certainly fix it if he brought it back to the AD, but he decided to wait until he serviced that watch. Finally, for models with chronographs, the hands should start, stop, and reset smoothly. Any stuttering or misalignment could mean it’s not the real deal. In the end, paying attention to these details can help you spot a fake Rolex quickly.

Crystal Etching

Rolex started laser-etching its sapphire crystals around 2001 to deter counterfeiters. In the right lighting, you can just make out a tiny crown logo at the 6 o’clock position on the crystal. This detail is almost invisible to the naked eye and may require a loupe to see clearly. Counterfeiters often miss this or fail to replicate it accurately. 

If the etching is absent or poorly done, the watch is likely a fake.  One of the reasons why this etching is so difficult to replicate is because it is actually inside of the crystal and not just on the surface. This is incredibly expensive to manufacture without the proper machinery, and as such even the best super clones often have bad crystal etching.

Water Resistance

Did your 300m Rolex Submariner fail in the kiddy pool? Do you see fog on the inside of the glass or beads of water on the dial? This is likely an indication of a fake Rolex—or a genuine one in need of immediate servicing! Rolex watches are designed to be water-resistant, and this feature is rigorously tested at the factory. 

While I wouldn’t recommend testing this yourself, having a professional watchmaker test the water resistance is a good idea. Counterfeit watches often fail this test because they aren’t built to the same stringent standards as a genuine Rolex. Lack of water resistance is a significant red flag.

Why You Shouldn’t Buy Fake Rolex Watches

I have to be realistic. No amount of literature or logic will dissuade somebody dead-set on acquiring a counterfeit watch. Some people have their minds made up. They are looking to flaunt wealth and success and don’t much care for the ten thousand dollar price tag associated with doing so. There is something to be said for the factories putting out these counterfeit products. They are often poorly run with plenty of human rights violations. 

There is also something to be said about the blurring of the lines between real and fake. With the advent of AI technology, it is becoming difficult to discern real from fake. It’s never a good idea to play into this “blurring” but rather to celebrate authenticity and human ingenuity. If you can’t afford a Rolex but you really want one, consider the pre-owned market. 

Finally, you are going to look like a fool when someone who knows watches, a colleague, business partner, maybe even your boss, asks to look at your watch. Don’t be the guy peddling a fake as the real thing. You’ll look like an idiot.

Conclusion

By taking the time to educate yourself and carefully examine any Rolex you’re considering, you ensure that you’re not just buying a watch but a genuine piece of history. A real Rolex is a lifelong companion that can be passed down through generations. Don’t settle for less. Wearing the crown is a costly endeavor, but that ensures a quality timepiece that symbolizes its wearer’s commitment to genuine quality.