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There aren’t many watch brands that can stand up to Rolex. This Swiss giant is known as one of the best of the best for a reason. And yet, there are one or two names that are as equally synonymous with prestige and craftsmanship. One such brand is Audemars Piguet.

If you’re someone new to the watch world, it’s understandable if you feel a little overwhelmed and inundated with options. There are so many fantastic watches and watch manufacturers out here that it can be difficult to know where to start. 

That’s where we come in—here’s your starting point, a guide to help you compare two of the biggest names in the industry and decide which one deserves a place not just on your radar but on your wrist.

Both Rolex and Audemars Piguet are Swiss legends, but they have different histories, technologies and, most obviously, cater to very different tastes. Audemars Piguet’s bold innovation and artistry contrast with Rolex’s timeless elegance and undeniable versatility. But which one deserves a spot on your wrist? 

In this article, we’ll dive into everything you need to know about Rolex and Audemars Piguet, from their groundbreaking contributions to the industry to their standout collections and the technologies and complications involved. By the end, you’ll have a clear picture of which brand is the perfect match for your style, personality, and lifestyle. 

Brand Heritage

A Quick History of Rolex 

Rolex’s story begins in 1905, and not in Switzerland as you might expect, but in London. Hans Wilsdorf, a young visionary with a passion for precision, teamed up with his brother-in-law Alfred Davis to create Wilsdorf & Davis, a company focused on crafting high-quality wristwatches. Back then, wristwatches were still finding their way into mainstream popularity, but Wilsdorf saw their potential and aimed to make them both accurate and elegant. 

In 1908, the name “Rolex” was born. It was short, memorable, and easy to say in any language. Just a few years later, in 1910, Rolex achieved a groundbreaking milestone by becoming the first wristwatch brand to receive the Swiss Certificate of Chronometric Precision, setting the tone for its reputation as a leader in accuracy. 

World War I brought changes to everyone, including Rolex, and in 1919, the company relocated to Geneva, Switzerland, to escape heavy British taxes on luxury goods. With this move, the brand truly began to flourish. The iconic Rolex Oyster debuted in 1926 as the world’s first waterproof wristwatch, and in 1931, Rolex introduced one of the first self-winding mechanisms.

Fast-forward to 1953, when the Rolex Submariner landed, becoming a symbol of adventure and one of the Swiss watchmaker’s best-known models. Today, Rolex is possibly the most familiar watch brand in the world, with everyone and their uncle knowing the crown logo, whether they’re into luxury timepieces or not.

A Quick History of Audemars Piguet

Unlike Rolex, Audemars Piguet was born in Switzerland, and it’s where the company has stayed ever since its founding in 1875. Its story started when two ambitious young watchmakers, Jules-Louis Audemars, and Edward-Auguste Piguet, joined forces to create what would become one of the most revered names in the horological world. 

Their partnership was the perfect blend of talents. Audemars focused on crafting intricate, complicated movements, while Piguet took charge of ensuring their precision and managing the business side of things. 

By 1881, their growing reputation led to the official establishment of Audemars Piguet & Cie, and they quickly set themselves apart from so many in the industry. While many brands embraced industrialized production – like Rolex – Audemars Piguet chose the artisanal route, crafting every timepiece with painstaking care, hand-finishing, and collaborating with local artisans. 

In 1892, Audemars Piguet created the world’s first minute-repeating wristwatch movement, a feat that showcased their flair for blending tradition with bold innovation. Fast forward to 1972, and the Swiss watchmaker shook the industry once again with the legendary AP Royal Oak, the world’s first luxury sports watch. Its edgy steel design and octagonal bezel remain synonymous with bold and brilliant watchmaking.

Model Variety

Rolex 

When it comes to variety, Rolex has pretty much a bit of everything. At the core of its offerings is the Oyster Perpetual, a foundational design that defines much of the brand’s lineup. With its waterproof case and self-winding movement, the Oyster Perpetual serves as the backbone for collections like the Submariner, GMT-Master, and Datejust. 

Even Rolex’s sportier models, such as the Daytona or Explorer, share this DNA. However, not everything revolves around the Oyster case, with dressier lines like the Cellini and the recently introduced 1908 catering to those who prefer a more traditional, elegant look. 

Rolex also excels in creating options for every wrist size and aesthetic preference. Case sizes range from a petite 31mm to a bold 44mm, ensuring a comfortable fit for everyone, regardless of gender or wrist size. 

The brand also offers a dazzling array of case materials, from classic stainless steel to luxurious yellow, white, or Everose gold, and even platinum. For dial choices, the sky’s the limit, from classic silvers and navy to pastel pinks, vibrant greens, and diamond-encrusted designs.

This incredible range of designs, sizes, and styles is what makes Rolex so appealing. No matter your lifestyle or taste, it’s almost impossible not to find a Rolex that feels suited to you and your tastes. 

Audemars Piguet 

On the other hand, Audemars Piguet’s collections are a little more limiting. If you’re like much of the watch community, you’ve probably only heard of one AP watch: the Royal Oak. 

Since its debut in 1972, this iconic design has been the centerpiece of Audemars Piguet’s lineup, with its bold octagonal bezel, integrated bracelet, and stunning finishes. It’s a watch that has changed the landscape of luxury sports watches forever, and it remains the brand’s crown jewel. 

Within the Royal Oak family, there’s a surprising amount of variety. You’ll find options in stainless steel, gold, titanium, and even ceramic, along with dials that range from the classic “Tapisserie” pattern to partial or full skeleton designs. 

For those who love complications, the Royal Oak lineup also offers everything from perpetual calendars to chronographs and flying tourbillons, showcasing AP’s technical prowess. 

If the Royal Oak isn’t sporty enough, the Royal Oak Offshore, introduced in 1993, adds a bolder, more rugged twist to the design. And for the truly avant-garde, there’s the Royal Oak Concept collection, which pushes the boundaries of design with over-the-top crown protectors and large screw-decorated bezels. 

Beyond the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet does offer a few alternatives, such as the retro-inspired [Re]master or the dressy, contemporary Code 11.59 collection. However, these models don’t enjoy the same spotlight as their Royal Oak siblings.

The downside? If you’re not a fan of the Royal Oak’s distinctive integrated design, your choices within Audemars Piguet’s lineup are quite limited. Still, for those who appreciate bold design and groundbreaking technology, the Royal Oak and its many variations are nothing short of extraordinary.

Design

When it comes to design principles, Rolex and Audemars Piguet sit at opposite ends of the spectrum. They both have a distinct design philosophy that they rarely deviate from, and that’s one of the reasons they have gained such a huge gathering of fans, just both with different tastes. 

Rolex

For starters, Rolex feels largely driven by timelessness and simplicity. Their design philosophy is built around creating watches that feel as relevant today as they did decades ago and will continue to feel the same for decades to come. Rather than chasing trends, Rolex refines its designs incrementally, ensuring each evolution honors its legacy while embracing modernity. 

Think of the Submariner’s clean lines, the Datejust’s classic proportions, or the GMT-Master’s instantly recognizable bezel. These designs are deliberate in their restraint, focusing on practicality and versatility. Details like the Cyclops lens for date magnification and the robust Oyster case are examples of Rolex’s ability to combine functional innovation with understated elegance.

Audemars Piguet

Meanwhile, Audemars Piguet is significantly more daring and clearly prefers to push the boundaries of design, even if that means isolating a watch collector or two. 

From the moment the Royal Oak hit the scene in 1972 with its audacious octagonal bezel and exposed screws, AP cemented its reputation as a brand that thrives on disruption. Its designs are bold, often unconventional, and unapologetically attention-grabbing. 

It’s really this that sets Audemars Piguet apart. They have an uncanny ability to marry artistry with technical mastery, which is showcased through their many skeletonized dials, intricate complications, and bold, geometric cases. 

Collections like the Royal Oak Concept show just how far the brand is willing to go in exploring futuristic design, while the Code 11.59 proves they can still interpret elegance, but again in a way that’s unique and very much Audemars Piguet.

Build Quality & Materials 

Rolex

When it comes to build quality, Rolex is very hard to criticize. The brand’s use of 904L stainless steel, a material Rolex calls “Oystersteel”, is really quite remarkable and one of the best case materials in the watchmaking game. It’s a high-grade alloy that’s corrosion-resistant, tough as nails, and has a subtle, gorgeous luster that you won’t find in your average stainless steel. 

Add to that the meticulous polishing and brushing, and you’ve got a watch that can go from the depths of the ocean to a black-tie gala with ease. 

Rolex also loves mixing it up with proprietary materials like Rolesor, a striking blend of Oystersteel and 18-karat gold. Their sapphire crystals are also nearly scratch-proof, and even details like the crowns and bezels are engineered to perfection. 

Finishing extends to every component, from the seamless integration of the Oyster bracelet to the unblemished sheen of their dials, whether it’s a vibrant sunburst or a diamond-studded masterpiece. 

Audemars Piguet

While Rolex seems to focus predominantly on the functionality of their watches when it comes to the materials and finishes they use, Audemars Piguet veers more towards a philosophy where each timepiece is ultimately a work of art. 

For example, the Royal Oak’s “Tapisserie” dials are legendary, featuring intricate hand-crafted patterns that create stunning plays of light. This level of texture and detail is something Rolex rarely dabbles in and is synonymous with AP. 

You also can’t fault the Royal Oak bracelet. In fact, they are some of the finest metal bracelets in the luxury watch industry, in my opinion. The breathtaking blend of angular bevels with brushed and polished surfaces makes the design feel almost architectural. 

It’s the kind of craftsmanship you don’t just see often, and you feel it every time you fasten it to your wrist. Finally, while there are plenty of steel and gold watches in Audemars Piguet’s portfolio, the brand also tends to lean into exotic materials like ceramic, titanium, and platinum, which reinforces their philosophy that watches are wearable pieces of art.

Movements 

Rolex 

When it comes to movements, Rolex and Audemars Piguet differ greatly, too. For Rolex, there’s a clear focus on precision, durability, and reliability. Every Rolex timepiece houses an in-house caliber that’s built to last for decades. 

Rolex movements are often seen labeled as “Superlative Chronometers”, meaning they meet an extraordinary accuracy standard of -2 to +2 seconds per day. That’s one of the tightest tolerances in the watchmaking world. 

This level of precision is achieved through innovations like the Parachrom hairspring, which is resistant to magnetic fields and almost completely unaffected by extreme temperatures. 

Yet, while Rolex movements are marvels of engineering, they’re also pragmatic. They don’t chase the kind of intricate complications seen in haute horology. Instead, their calibers excel at simplicity. 

They offer reliable timekeeping with classic features like date displays, dual time zones, and chronographs. They’re also practical with basic finishing – at least in comparison to Audemars Piguet. The cases often have a closed case back, which again emphasizes that the movement is about performance rather than visual appeal.

Audemars Piguet 

Like their cases and dials, Audemars Piguet’s movements focus greatly on aesthetic beauty and cutting-edge technology. They still only use in-house calibres, but their focus shifts from pure precision to showcasing innovative design and visual artistry. 

Some of their best-known complications include the perpetual calendar, minute repeater, and flying tourbillon – some of the hardest and most complex complications to engineer. 

Their movements are also meticulously hand-finished. Techniques like perlage, Côtes de Genève, and polished bevelling adorn the components, making their movements miniature works of art that can be regularly viewed through exhibition case backs. 

However, this complexity does come with trade-offs. While Audemars Piguet calibers are breathtakingly intricate, this also means they can be more sensitive and require regular maintenance. Some of their chronograph movements use modular constructions rather than fully integrated designs, which can sometimes impact performance. 

Price Point & Collectability 

Rolex 

Rolex watches occupy a rather broad pricing spectrum, offering entry-level models at more accessible prices compared to Audemars Piguet. Prices for Rolex models can range from just over $5,000 for entry-level models like the Oyster Perpetual to well over $100,000 for more intricate pieces, like the Day-Date in precious metals. 

Rolex watches are also well-known to hold their value, especially if taken care of. In fact, the market’s appetite for Rolex is so strong that it’s widely regarded as one of the best investments in the luxury watch market, with some models even outperforming other luxury brands in terms of resale value. Vintage Rolex models especially have seen substantial price increases at auctions, often fetching more than their original retail price. 

Audemars Piguet 

Audemars Piguet watches tend to fall on the higher end of the luxury watch spectrum, with prices reflecting their intricate craftsmanship, complex complications, and limited production. Their most affordable models retail for around $10,000 and go up to $450,000. 

A key factor in AP’s premium pricing is the exclusivity of their designs, especially with iconic models like the Royal Oak. Many of their timepieces feature rare materials such as platinum or rose gold, and complex movements like minute repeaters or flying tourbillons, making them highly coveted among collectors. Limited edition models and their low production numbers further contribute to their rarity. 

While Audemars Piguet watches typically carry higher price tags than Rolex, they still hold strong value in the resale market, especially the Royal Oak models and vintage pieces. However, when compared to Rolex, AP watches tend to experience slower value appreciation. Despite this, owning an Audemars Piguet is more about owning a unique, artistic masterpiece rather than a simple investment. 

Conclusion 

In the end, choosing between Audemars Piguet and Rolex comes down to personal preference and what you value most in a luxury watch. Both brands are undeniably exceptional, each with its own distinctive qualities that set them apart. 

Rolex excels in versatility, precision, and status, offering a broad range of models that cater to different tastes and lifestyles. Their watches are iconic, reliable, and maintain excellent resale value, making them an ideal choice for someone looking for a classic, dependable timepiece that is also a solid investment.

On the other hand, Audemars Piguet is a brand that speaks to those who appreciate artistry, innovation, and exclusivity. With its bold designs, especially the iconic Royal Oak, AP caters to watch enthusiasts who want a timepiece that stands out and pushes the boundaries of traditional watchmaking. 

The complexity of their movements and the rarity of their models make them a choice for collectors who seek something unique and are willing to invest in a piece of horological artistry.

If you’ve ever strolled past a watch display and found your eyes drawn to the sleek simplicity of a Movado watch, you’re not alone. Movado’s minimalist designs, particularly the iconic Museum Watch, have earned the brand a loyal following and plenty of admirers. But does that admiration translate into value for money? 

And is Movado a must-have addition to your own collection, or is it just a fancy name with a hefty price tag? Ultimately, it’s all going to come down to your own tastes and desires, but let us at least give you all the information you need to make your decision.

Movado Watches in the Past

If you were to head to the Movado website today, you’d be right in thinking this watch company leans more towards fashion-style watches than high-end watchmaking prowess. But the Swiss timepiece manufacturer hasn’t always been the fashion-forward, design-centric brand you see today.

Movado has a rich history that dates back to 1881, when it was founded in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, a region that many of you will probably know is already synonymous with precision watchmaking. The name “Movado” itself means “always in motion” in Esperanto, which reflects the brand’s early commitment to innovation and quality craftsmanship.

Back in the day, Movado was a serious player in the world of horology. Its reputation was built on elegant, innovative designs, and it won numerous awards for this philosophy. 

Notable watches in its archive include the Polyplan, which launched in 1912, a curved watch designed to fit the wrist more comfortably, and its Chronometer watches, which were highly prized for their accuracy.

The real turning point for Movado came in 1947, though, when artist Nathan George Horwitt designed the now-iconic Museum Dial. 

The watch’s stark, minimalist design featured a single dot at 12 o’clock to represent the sun and two hands sweeping around the dial. It was a design so striking it became part of the permanent collection at the Museum of Modern Art in New York, earning it the nickname “Museum Watch.”

But alas, the history of Movado isn’t all sunshine and accolades. Their acquisition of the Museum Dial design has been a source of plenty of controversy. 

While Horwitt initially licensed the design to Movado, there have been disputes over its intellectual property, which has led some watch enthusiasts to question the brand’s integrity. Regardless, Movado has leaned heavily on this design ever since, making it the cornerstone of its identity.

For decades, Movado was seen as a serious, respectable Swiss watchmaker. Collectors still prize vintage Movado pieces for their craftsmanship and unique designs. However, as we’ll see, the brand’s focus shifted dramatically in the late 20th century.

Movado Watches Today

Fast forward to the present, and Movado occupies a very different space in the watch world. While the brand still leans on its Swiss heritage, its watches are now more often associated with fashion than high-end horology. 

In fact, even Movado has positioned its company more as a lifestyle brand, appealing to a fashion-forward audience with its sleek, modern designs. But this does mean prices can feel a little high, especially considering the technology and design prowess involved. 

The Good 

Now, I don’t want you to think this article is focused solely on the negatives of Movado. This Swiss watchmaker still has many admirable qualities that have earned it a dedicated following over the years. 

From their iconic Museum Dial to their commitment to crafting timepieces that seamlessly blend fashion and functionality, Movado continues to hold a respected place in the world of horology.

Everyone has their personal preferences when it comes to watches, and I would never look down on someone for choosing to wear a Movado. After all, a watch is a personal choice that reflects individual taste and style, and Movado offers a unique aesthetic that resonates with many.

For me, the real draw of Movado is the Museum Dial. It remains their most timeless design feature and has inspired countless imitators (so you know it must be admired). 

Its clean lines and minimalist aesthetic make it a perfect accessory for those who value simplicity and sophistication. And, Movado has clearly listened to their customers because they have expanded their Museum offerings to include hundreds of dial, case, and strap configurations. 

Movado’s pricing strategy also still makes it accessible to a wider audience. With many models falling in the $500 to $1,500 range, it’s a more attainable brand than many luxury Swiss watchmakers. And, while purists may scoff, Movado’s quartz movements are reliable and require minimal maintenance, which will always be a plus for casual watch wearers. 

The Not-So-Good 

On the other hand, it’s clear Movado’s reputation as a serious watchmaker has taken a hit. Once celebrated for its innovation and craftsmanship, Movado is now often grouped with fashion brands like Michael Kors and Gucci. 

For serious watch enthusiasts, this association diminishes its credibility. Much of this is down to Movado’s reliance on cheaper technologies like quartz movements and its departure from producing intricate mechanical timepieces. While dependable, quartz movements lack the artistry and complexity that many collectors seek.

Movado’s over-reliance on the Museum Dial design is another sticking point. Yes, it’s iconic, but it’s also ubiquitous. The sheer number of variations on this single concept, with different dial colors, case materials, and strap options, makes it feel overdone. 

It’s as though the brand is treading water creatively, relying on the Museum Dial to carry its identity instead of innovating with new, exciting designs. For a brand with such a storied past, this lack of evolution is disappointing. 

Another criticism lies in the pricing of some Movado models. For instance, the Movado Bold line looks great, but their price tags—often around the $1,000 range—don’t always align with the technology and materials offered. Many competitors in the same price bracket provide better value through superior craftsmanship, mechanical movements, or more innovative features. 

Lastly, Movado’s focus on mass production has diluted its exclusivity. In the past, owning a Movado felt special, almost like a connection to Swiss heritage and artistry. 

Today, the brand’s ubiquity and presence in department stores make it feel more like a commodity than a coveted timepiece. This mass-market approach has made Movado accessible but at the cost of its prestige among horology enthusiasts. 

Popular Movado Models 

Museum Classic 

The Museum Classic is perhaps Movado’s most iconic watch, and for good reason. It closely mimics the original Museum Watch design, featuring the signature minimalist dial with a single dot at 12 o’clock. The simplicity of this watch is both its strength and its weakness. 

On one hand, it’s a timeless representation of modernism. On the other, some critics argue that the design feels overused. While it’s a beautiful piece, Movado’s reluctance to innovate with the Museum Dial has left some fans, myself included, yearning for more creativity. 

Movado Bold 

The Movado Bold series takes a more contemporary approach with bold case stylings, chunky metal bracelets, and dials that play with textures and colors. These watches certainly look the part of a luxury timepiece, but their price tags—often exceeding $1,000—raise questions about value. 

While they feature automatic movements and durable materials, they face stiff competition from brands offering better technology and craftsmanship at a similar or lower price point. For instance, Seiko and Tissot provide comparable or superior options in terms of movement and design for half the cost. 

Movado Face 

The Movado Face is another model inspired by the original Museum Dial, but it takes a more playful and accessible approach. These watches are significantly more affordable, often powered by quartz movements, and feature bold, colorful dials. 

While the designs are fun and vibrant, they still carry a premium price tag that’s hard to reconcile with the technology on offer. Many critics feel that Movado’s reliance on branding over innovation in these models diminishes their appeal.

Should you get a Movado Watch? 

So, is a Movado watch worth your hard-earned money? The answer depends on what you’re looking for. 

Who Should Buy a Movado? 

If you’re someone who values design and aesthetics above all else, Movado has likely already caught your eye. The Museum Dial’s minimalist beauty is hard to beat, and the brand’s other offerings provide plenty of stylish options. 

Movado watches are also ideal for those new to the world of watches. They’re relatively affordable, easy to maintain, and offer a taste of Swiss heritage.

For professionals, Movado watches can also serve as a statement piece. The understated design of a Museum Watch pairs seamlessly with business attire, making it an excellent choice for those who want to exude confidence and style in the workplace without being flashy. It’s a way to make a subtle yet powerful impression. 

Additionally, Movado watches aren’t something you see every day. While brands like Seiko and Longines are celebrated and often spotted on wrists worldwide, Movado’s unique approach to watchmaking sets it apart. Their minimalist aesthetic and uncluttered design offer something distinctive in a sea of more traditional styles. 

For this reason, Movado watches will likely appeal to those who like to stand out from the crowd. They embrace a real stripped-down, artistic approach to watch design, so they’ll be a natural fit for those who appreciate subtlety and want their style to reflect their uniqueness. 

Finally, Movado works for those who are less interested in the mechanics of watchmaking and more focused on aesthetics. I know that not everyone needs a watch with a complex automatic movement or a rich horological history. For many, a beautiful design and a reliable movement are more than enough, and Movado delivers on both fronts. 

Who Should Look Elsewhere? 

In stark contrast, if you’re something of a watch-collecting buff or simply someone who appreciates the artistry behind mechanical movements, you’ll likely find Movado lacking in this area. 

There are plenty of great alternatives in the same price range that offer mechanical movements, greater craftsmanship, and a richer history. Brands like Hamilton, Tissot, or Seiko provide excellent value for money and are more widely respected within the watch community. 

For those willing to stretch their budget, stepping up to brands like Longines or Oris will get you a true luxury timepiece with more robust features and mechanical movements. 

These brands offer watches with a level of craftsmanship and innovation that Movado simply doesn’t compete with within its current form. Additionally, if exclusivity is important to you, Movado’s widespread availability might be a turnoff. Other brands in the same price range can offer a sense of rarity and individuality that Movado lacks. 

Another point to consider is that while Movado’s Museum dial is undeniably iconic, it’s not to everyone’s taste. Its minimalist design is polarizing. Some find it striking and timeless, while others view it as overly simplistic or uninspired. 

Furthermore, despite boasting over 350 models on their website, Movado offers very little in terms of design variety. Most of their watches share the same core aesthetic, with differences largely limited to dial colors, case sizes, and minor material variations. For buyers seeking diverse styles or bolder design choices, Movado’s lineup can feel repetitive and uninspired, making it a less attractive option compared to brands that embrace broader creative expression.

Conclusion 

Movado is a brand that tends to elicit strong opinions, and it’s easy to see why. Once a prominent name in Swiss watchmaking, Movado has evolved into more of a fashion-forward brand, catering to those who prioritize clean, minimalist design and accessibility over traditional horological pedigree. 

For many, the sleek and iconic Museum dial is enough to make a Movado watch an appealing choice. I can understand it; it’s a design that’s hard to mistake for anything else and can make a subtle yet bold style statement.

However, Movado’s shift toward fashion-oriented timepieces does mean it may not appeal to everyone. If you’re someone who values the intricate artistry of mechanical movements, the weight of a storied legacy, or a reputation that resonates deeply within the watch-collecting community, Movado may feel lacking. It’s also fair to say you can find similar or better levels of craftsmanship and design at half of the price if you look hard enough.

Ultimately, whether Movado is worth it comes down to what you value most in a watch. If you’re drawn to their design and the modern, minimalist aesthetic speaks to you, there’s no reason not to enjoy wearing one. 

Watches are personal and should be a reflection of your taste and personality, no one else’s. Whether you choose Movado for its distinct style or opt for another brand that aligns more with traditional watchmaking values, the most important thing is that you wear what you want. Other people’s opinions shouldn’t matter, including mine. 

The Tudor Black Bay 58 has been winning wrists since it dropped back in 2018, and this is not fresh news. On its launch, it was just ever so slightly overshadowed by the Black Bay GMT but after people got the Black Bay 58 on their wrist, it quickly became one of Tudor’s most popular releases. It’s a dive watch that manages to balance compact size, vintage inspirations and modern technology at a price that doesn’t make your wallet want to cry. 

It’s a watch I’ve admired pretty much since its launch in 2018, and truthfully until its release, I barely gave Tudor a second glance since most of their other designs were of a larger size – and so for larger wrist sizes than my own. But the Black Bay 58 changed that and it’s now a mainstay timepiece in my own collection. It’s understated, cool, and just really, really, good-looking. So, after owning the Tudor Black Bay 58 M79030N-0001 for several years now, is it a watch I regret buying, or is it a design that you’ll find regularly strapped to my wrist?

The History of the Tudor Black Bay 

The Tudor Black Bay collection has a well-known history, predominantly because it’s a watch intertwined with Rolex Tudor is the sister company of the Swiss giant after all and one of their first watches was familiarly named the Submariner. The iconic Tudor Submariner Reference 7924, released in 1958, remains the largest inspiration for today’s Tudor Black Bay collection. The 7924 set the stage with its black dial, sturdy steel case, and gold markers, all design elements that are still echoed in today’s Black Bay models. But that’s not to say the Black Bay is a straight-up reissue of the 7924, because it’s not. Instead, it’s more like a tribute that takes inspiration from Tudor’s greatest hits while confidently carving out its own identity. 

For example, the signature “snowflake” hands that define the Black Bay line weren’t part of the original 7924’s design. These were first introduced in 1969 on the Tudor Submariner Reference 7016, adding a unique geometric touch that’s now synonymous with the brand. In that sense, the Black Bay series is an incredible mash-up of Tudor’s most celebrated design moments, blending vintage aesthetics with modern watchmaking innovation. 

Fast forward to 2018, and Tudor shook things up in a big way with the release of the Black Bay 58 at Baselworld. With its more compact 39mm case, it broke away from the “bigger is better” trend that dominated sports watches at the time. Sure, the Black Bay GMT with its flashy red-and-blue Pepsi bezel may have stolen some of the spotlight initially, but the Black Bay 58 didn’t take long to capture the wrists of enthusiasts everywhere. Its perfect proportions, vintage charm, and versatility made it a smash hit, especially as the watch world was knee-deep in a love affair with retro-inspired designs at the time. 

Visually, the Black Bay 58 retains all the hallmarks that make the Black Bay collection so beloved. It’s like a scaled-down version of the original Black Bay (M79230N), maintaining the bold black dial and bezel but with more refined, compact dimensions. 

A Compact Case 

Since the dimensions are arguably the Tudor Black Bay 58 watch’s most notable feature, at least compared to other Black Bay references in the collection, it seems only right we start there. To put it simply, the Black Bay 58 is a masterclass in refined proportions and smart design, packing a punch with its compact 39mm stainless steel case. It’s also just 11.7mm thick so is noticeably slimmer than its predecessor, the 41mm Black Bay, which comes in at a chunkier 15mm. This downsizing makes a world of difference, creating a watch that feels sleek, comfortable, and perfectly suited for everyday wear without losing its sporty dive watch roots. 

One of the standout features of the Black Bay 58 is its thoughtful finishing. The case is primarily brushed for a rugged, utilitarian vibe, with a polished bevel running along the lugs that adds a subtle touch of elegance. Like the early big-crown Submariners, it skips crown guards and protectors and instead opts for a screw-down crown with Tudor’s signature rose logo. This oversized crown isn’t just a nod to Tudor’s heritage but it’s practical too, making time-setting and winding a breeze. 

The Tudor Black Bay 58’s unidirectional rotating bezel is another highlight. Featuring a 60-click mechanism, it provides a tactile, precise feel, with a satisfying lock at the 0/60 position. The black anodized aluminium insert, complete with pink-gilded markings, maintains a vintage aesthetic. It’s functional too, designed to track elapsed dive times, though equally useful for timing everything from coffee brewing to parking meters. The gently knurled bezel edge ensures easy grip without compromising the watch’s sleek silhouette. 

The domed sapphire crystal over the dial also offers modern scratch resistance and nods to the brand’s past, particularly the look of vintage acrylic crystals used during the 1970’s. It’s all the little details like this that enhance the Tudor Black Bay 58’s old-school charm. And since it’s a dive watch after all, the screw in crown and case back provide a 200 metre water resistance so it’s perfectly suitable for snorkelling, skin diving and pool diving. But if you want to go deep sea diving, you’ll want something with a higher water resistant rating than this. 

On the wrist, the Black Bay 58 shines thanks to its compact dimensions. Its lug-to-lug length of 47.75mm and narrower 20mm lug width give it a balanced, wearable profile. It feels substantial yet never overbearing, making it ideal for smaller wrists or anyone who prefers a more understated presence. The bracelet, which tapers from 20mm to 16mm, further contributes to its comfort and vintage-inspired design – but more on that later.

A Retro Dial

Easily the most noticeable feature of any Tudor Black Bay watch is the dial. In the case of the Tudor Black Bay 58 M79030N-0001 it delivers a black and gilt colour scheme which is nothing short of striking. The subtle touches of gold contrast beautifully to the rest of the stainless steel architecture and add a warmth and richness that elevates the 58’s vintage aesthetic. 

The matte black surface of the dial exudes subtle sophistication, with just enough texture to keep it interesting. It has a slightly faded appearance, giving it a lived-in feel without veering into faux-patina territory. Tudor also notes that the dial is domed, though the curvature is so subtle it’s more of a whisper than a shout but is just enough to play with the light and add depth. 

The hour markers follow the classic Submariner-inspired design, with lume-filled applique framed in polished rose gold. The lume itself is an off-white, custard hue that glows brightly in the dark while maintaining that vintage vibe during the day. Around the outer edge, you’ll find a minute track printed in faux-rose gold, subtly tying the whole design together.

At the heart of the dial are Tudor’s iconic snowflake hands, finished in polished rose gold to match the hour markers. These hands are unapologetically bold and instantly recognizable, packed with lume to ensure excellent legibility. While some purists have debated the combination of square-edged snowflake hands with round markers, it’s a design choice that’s become quintessentially Tudor and frankly, it’s a combination I’ve always loved. 

The printed text on the dial is minimal and clean, with the Tudor logo sitting proudly at 12 o’clock and the depth rating and chronometer designation of the in-house movement neatly positioned above 6 o’clock. These details are sharp and unobtrusive, maintaining the Tudor Black Bay 58’s clean and balanced aesthetic. 

One final detail worth mentioning is the synergy between the dial and bezel. The Black Bay 58’s bezel, which as we mentioned features a matching black anodized aluminium insert with rose gold numerals and markings, adds just the right amount of metallic warmth to match the dial, tying everything together succinctly. And of course, there are other dial and bezel colours in the Black Bay collection to choose from that work just as well together including shades of blue, green, burgundy and brown.

An In-House Movement

The movement inside the Tudor Black Bay 58 watch is the Manufacture Calibre MT5402, an in-house mechanical movement that Tudor created specifically for mid-sized cases like this one. At 26mm in diameter and 4.99mm thick, it’s a notable downsizing from the MT5602 found in the Black Bay 41, but with zero compromises in performance. 

It’s a COSC-certified chronometer, meaning it has passed rigorous testing by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (that’s what COSC stands for). To earn this certification, a movement must demonstrate exceptional precision, maintaining an average daily deviation of -4 to +6 seconds. This level of accuracy is a hallmark of premium watchmaking and gives the Black Bay 58 further horological credibility. 

What’s particularly impressive is the movement’s 70-hour power reserve. That’s nearly three full days of uninterrupted ticking, which means you can set it down on Friday, pick it up on Monday, and it’ll still be keeping perfect time. The Calibre MT5402 also features a bidirectional rotor system for smooth, efficient winding and a free-sprung balance with a silicon hairspring for enhanced durability and resistance to magnetism.                                        

Functionally, the MT5402 performs beautifully. During my time with the Black Bay 58, the movement has proven to be extremely accurate and reliable, maintaining time even after sitting unworn for a couple of days. It’s a movement that quietly excels, ticking away at 28,800 beats per hour with 27 jewels.

A Vintage Bracelet 

There are a range of straps available on the Tudor Black Bay 58 including several leather and textile bands. But for me, I’ve always worn mine on the stainless steel bracelet. It’s a strap that feels right for the timepiece’s vintage charm. Like the rest of the design, it clearly draws inspiration from the past opting for a riveted architecture that brings a classic, tool-watch vibe while still offering the comfort and durability you’d expect from a contemporary luxury piece. 

Starting with the basics, the Black Bay 58’s bracelet is 20mm at the lugs, which is ideal for swapping straps if you’re into changing things up. This 20mm lug width is considered a sweet spot in the vintage watch world, giving it a retro look without being too bulky or out of place. The bracelet tapers elegantly down to 16mm at the clasp, which not only enhances its sleek look but also contributes to a more comfortable fit on the wrist. 

The rivet design, introduced to the Black Bay collection in 2016, has become one of the defining features of the line, and it works beautifully on the 58. Each link is rivet-plated on the sides, with the removable links featuring a screw-bar for easier sizing. This design choice is a win-win, as it looks authentic and allows for hassle-free adjustments at home. The rivets themselves lend a vintage tool-watch feel, which fits perfectly with the watch’s overall design philosophy. 

When it comes to wearability, Tudor has nailed the proportions and comfort. The lugs have a slight curve, allowing the case to sit effortlessly on the wrist, no matter which strap you choose. But the bracelet is finished the best, in my opinion. The satin-finished links mirror the case finish, giving it a cohesive, high-quality look. Plus, the fold-over clasp is solid and secure, with a secondary locking mechanism that adds extra peace of mind. Tudor has even incorporated ceramic pins in the clasp’s locking system to slow down wear, ensuring long-term durability.

On-Wrist Experience

Before the Tudor Black Bay 58, no Black Bay really felt right for me. The 41mm predecessor was too large and too thick but the case on this one is perfect for my smaller wrist. If your wrist is between 5.5 to 7 inches, the Black Bay 58 fits like a dream. It’s compact and doesn’t overwhelm the wrist, which is a refreshing change from the larger dive watches on the market. If you have a bigger wrist, though, it might look a bit small and you might prefer the Black Bay 41. But that’s just my opinion and if you’re into that vintage aesthetic, you might enjoy its smaller dimensions.

One of the best parts about the Tudor Black Bay 57 for me is its thinner profile. With a thickness of just 11.9mm, it’s noticeably slimmer than the larger Black Bay (which comes in at 14.6mm). That 18% reduction makes a huge difference in how the watch feels on the wrist, making it more comfortable for all-day wear, while still giving off that cool, vintage vibe. It wears beautifully as a daily watch and is one of those effortless throw-on, throw-off watches you don’t have to think about. It’ll look and act the part no matter the situation.

Price & Availability

The Tudor Black Bay collection has only hosted a handful of limited editions during its release and thankfully, the Black Bay 58 including reference M79030N-0001 is not one of them. It would be weird if it was, since it’s become such a flagship model for the brand. Due to its popularity, I can’t see the Black Bay 58 disappearing any time soon, so you have plenty of time to consider which one you’ll choose for yourself. Just be sure to get yours from an authorised Tudor retailer like Exquisite Timepieces.

The Tudor Black Bay 58 M79030N-0001 is one of the most affordable designs in the line-up, retailing for $3,450. And even those with differing dial designs, bezel set ups and strap configurations aren’t too far behind with the majority of the collection retailing below $5,000. It’s a watch with a fantastic value proposition, especially when you compare it to so many other popular dive watches on the market.

Conclusion

It’s not every day that a brand takes something great and makes it even better, but that’s exactly what Tudor has done with the Black Bay 58. The original Black Bay line was already a huge hit, a versatile and reliable dive watch that quickly became a favourite among enthusiasts. However, the 58 has taken it a step further by addressing the few critiques of its predecessor, refining the case size, thickness, and proportions, and introducing the smaller in-house movement to fit perfectly into that compact frame.

When I first bought my Tudor Black Bay 58, I wanted something reliable, low-key and easy to wear daily. I can safely say this is a watch that ticks all those boxes: it’s handsome, versatile, durable, and the perfect size for daily wear. Plus, the ability to swap out straps means I can give it a fresh look whenever the mood strikes. For under $5,000, it’s hard to find a watch that offers this much wearability and versatility. It’s a purchase I have never once regretted, and I don’t reckon you will either.

The Longines HydroConquest has been a watch I’ve recommended to newbies to the watch-collecting game for years. It’s a watch I’ve had a lot of hands-on time with, and every single time, I’m impressed with its value proposition. Whether you’re just getting into the hobby or you’re looking for a solid dive watch that won’t break the bank, the HydroConquest delivers.

With its bold, contemporary design and robust water resistance, it checks all the boxes of a serious dive watch while looking equally at home under a cuff or on the beach. Since its debut in 2007, the collection has grown to offer a variety of sizes, colors, and materials, so there’s pretty much something for everyone. 

Sure, the HydroConquest doesn’t have quite the same legacy or collectability as a Rolex or an Omega, but if you’re not caught up in all that—and honestly, not everyone is—it might just be the perfect watch to save you a couple of zeros on the price tag.

So, what exactly does the Longines HydroConquest offer?

A Quick History of the Longines HydroConquest

Longines, one of the oldest names in Swiss watchmaking, has been crafting timepieces since 1832 in Saint-Imier, Switzerland—a village whose name literally means “the long meadows” or “les longines.” 

While the brand had been producing watches for over a century, it wasn’t until 1954 that Longines began giving its collections distinct names, starting with “Conquest.” The original Conquest was groundbreaking, boasting an accurate automatic movement, a water-resistant case, and protection against magnetism and shocks. But despite its utility, it leaned toward the dressy side, with clean lines, a compact 35mm case, and a minimalist dial.

Fast forward to 2007, and Longines introduced the HydroConquest as part of its Sport Collection, marking a bold step for the brand as it entered dive watch territory. Unlike many of its other collections that leaned heavily on heritage-inspired designs, the HydroConquest was a fresh, forward-looking creation. 

While the Longines Legend Diver, for example, is a nostalgic nod to the past, the HydroConquest is a thoroughly modern creation that’s become a cornerstone of the brand’s lineup.

It’s a watch best known for its high-performance specs, like the 300-meter water resistance rating and a unidirectional rotating bezel. These features are tailor-made for divers but will also appeal to anyone seeking a robust, sporty watch. 

Since its debut, the Longines HydroConquest has evolved significantly, introducing new technologies, complications, and materials. For example, in 2018, Longines upped the ante by introducing scratch-resistant ceramic bezels and expanding its palette of dial colors. Today, the collection includes a wide array of options, from different case sizes to vibrant dial and bezel combinations.

A Diver’s Case

The case of the Longines HydroConquest embodies a design language that feels both familiar and uniquely its own. It riffs on iconic elements that seasoned watch enthusiasts will instantly recognize. 

There’s the sporty, robust case shape and the uni-directional bezel with its standard dive watch typeface, but these elements come together in a way that feels distinctly Longines. It’s a perfect blend of heritage inspiration and modern design, resulting in a watch that’s as capable as it is stylish.

The Longines HydroConquest collection offers case sizes ranging from a compact 32mm to a substantial 44mm, catering to a wide range of wrist sizes and preferences. Regardless of the size, the case shares the same defining features: bold, angular lines, strong lugs, and prominent crown protectors flanking the crown at 3 o’clock. 

Even on the petite 32mm model, these features are present, but they’re so well executed that the watch never feels over-the-top or bulky. It’s sporty to its core yet refined enough to wear daily.

The case showcases a mix of brushed and polished finishes, enhancing its sporty-dressy versatility. Despite its rugged appearance and impressive 300-meter water resistance, it’s surprisingly slim. 

Even the largest 44mm model with an automatic movement measures just 11.9mm thick, a remarkable feat for a professional grade dive watch. This slim profile makes it easy to wear under a cuff while still exuding the durability and confidence needed for diving.

The bezel is another highlight, featuring a unidirectional ratcheting mechanism with a 60-minute dive scale. The first 15 minutes are marked in detail, with Arabic numerals at 10-minute intervals for precise tracking. 

Modern HydroConquest models elevate this with ceramic bezel inserts, available in vibrant hues like blue, black, green, and gray. There are also some stunning two-tone models that add a touch of luxury by pairing gold-plated bezels and crowns with the steel cases.

Securing the impressive water resistance is a screw-down crown and a screw-in case back, the latter engraved with the Longines winged logo and “EFC,” which stands for “Établissement Longines Francillon,” a nod to the brand’s historical roots. The case also features a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, ensuring durability and excellent readability in all lighting conditions.

A Brilliantly Legible Dial

If there’s one thing in a dive watch that’s paramount, other than the water resistance, it’s the legibility of the dial. Clear timekeeping can be the difference between a successful dive and a critical error, and it’s clear the Longines HydroConquest embraces this fundamental principle and executes it brilliantly. Every element of its dial design is tailored to ensure optimal readability, whether you’re underwater or simply glancing at your wrist on land.

The dial layout is classic and functional. Three applied Arabic numerals are positioned at 12, 6, and 9 o’clock, with a date window replacing the numeral at 3 o’clock. These numerals, along with bold rectangular hour markers, are generously coated in glow-in-the-dark Super-LumiNova, ensuring excellent visibility in low-light or murky underwater conditions. 

The handset is equally striking and functional, consisting of a short, faceted hour hand with a luminous diamond tip, a baton-style minute hand, and a lollipop-style sweep seconds hand. This combination enhances legibility and evokes the design language of iconic dive watches that have proven themselves over decades.

Longines offers a variety of dial finishes within the HydroConquest range, catering to diverse tastes. Options include sunray-brushed blue, grey, and black dials, as well as matte-finished green and black dials. 

These variations maintain the same practical layout and hardware, ensuring the signature HydroConquest looks across the collection. The only departure from this formula is found in select 32mm models, which swap the luminous numerals and markers for diamond indices which are set upon a backdrop of iridescent white mother of pearl.

The dial hardware is meticulously crafted to match the case material. On two-tone models with gold-plated accents, for example, the hands and markers are also finished in gold, providing a seamless aesthetic. Completing the design are the Longines logo at 12 o’clock, featuring the iconic winged emblem, and additional text at 6 o’clock denoting the watch’s impressive 300-meter water resistance and the movement inside.

A Swiss-Made Movement 

And, of course, there are a couple of movement options to choose from, too. This will depend on your own passions and needs. If you’re a lover of traditional watchmaking techniques and have a little more budget to spare, then the Longines HydroConquest Automatic is a fantastic choice. Meanwhile, the Longines HydroConquest Quartz makes the diver’s watch more affordable and will only require a single battery change every couple of years. 

The quartz-powered HydroConquest models typically house the Longines L156 or L157 calibers, both of which are based on ETA quartz movements (ETA, like Longines, is part of the Swatch Group). 

These Swiss-made movements are renowned for their precision and reliability. A standout feature of these quartz calibers is the End-of-Life (EOL) indicator, which alerts the wearer when the battery is nearing depletion. This is achieved by the seconds hand beginning to jump in four-second intervals, signaling it’s time for a battery replacement. This practical feature ensures you’ll never be caught off guard with a stopped watch. 

For those who prefer the craftsmanship of a mechanical watch, the Longines HydroConquest’s automatic models are equipped with the Longines-exclusive Caliber L888. This movement is based on the ETA A31.L11, re-engineered to meet Longines’ specifications. 

The L888 boasts a robust 72-hour power reserve, allowing the watch to run for three full days without winding, which is perfect for weekend divers or anyone rotating between watches. It operates at a frequency of 25,200 vibrations per hour, offering smooth hand motion and excellent timekeeping stability.

Multiple Strap Combinations

The Longines HydroConquest offers two primary strap options: rubber straps or metal bracelets, each available in a range of colors and finishes to perfectly complement the watch’s design. These straps significantly alter the overall look and feel of the watch, making it adaptable to various lifestyles and preferences. 

For me, the rubber strap is an obvious choice, especially if you want to utilize the HydroConquest for what it’s designed for: diving. The water resistant material emphasizes the design’s identity as a true diver’s watch and will work perfectly for those of you who love being in, on, or around the water. 

These straps feature a beautiful-grained texture, adding depth to their sporty aesthetic, and are available in colors like black, blue, and gray to seamlessly match the watch’s dial and ceramic bezel inserts. Beyond their visual appeal, rubber straps are highly practical, offering comfort, water resistance, and durability, which is ideal for active wearers. 

For a more polished and versatile appearance, the metal bracelets are an excellent choice. Featuring a classic three-row link architecture, they strike a balance between sporty and dressy. 

The bracelets come in two configurations: full stainless steel or two-tone, with steel and gold-plated links. The finishing is meticulous, with brushed outer links providing a rugged feel and polished inner links adding a touch of sophistication. This combination creates a dynamic interplay of textures, ensuring the bracelet looks equally at home with casual or formal attire. 

Both the rubber straps and metal bracelets are equipped with double-safety folding clasps and push-piece opening mechanisms. These features enhance the watch’s security on the wrist, giving wearers confidence whether they’re diving or simply going about their day.

On-Wrist Experience 

The Longines HydroConquest is one of those watches that just works no matter what you throw at it or what you wear it to. Seriously, it’s a watch that can hike up a mountain, dive into a pool, and still look sharp at a formal event all on the same day. 

On the wrist, it’s a dream. The angular case design, polished details, and slim profile mean it looks great and feels even better. The sapphire crystal is practically indestructible, and the 300-meter water resistance means it’s ready for everything from casual swims to full-on scuba adventures. 

And one of the biggest benefits: once you’ve left the pool, you can easily keep it on for those formal events. That touch of polish, the sharp case lines, and the compact case height mean it’s dressy enough to slide right under a shirt cuff. This thing pulls off a tuxedo just as easily as it does board shorts. 

Now, let’s talk about size because this watch is all about options. With case sizes from 32mm to 44mm, there’s literally something for everyone. Personally, I have small wrists (around 5 inches), so I gravitate toward the 32mm models for dressier vibes or the 39mm for when I want something a little bolder. 

If your wrists are on the larger side—say 6.5 inches or more—the 41mm and 44mm will most likely suit your frame better. But these are just my suggestions. My best advice is to try one on yourself or compare the sizes to something you already own. 

Price & Availability

For now, the Longines HydroConquest collection is a permanent fixture in the brand’s lineup, meaning there are no limited editions to worry about. This means these models are here to stay until Longines decides to refresh them. This also gives collectors a sense of stability, knowing that they can always find a HydroConquest model that suits their style and needs. 

As for pricing, it varies depending on the case size and movement you choose. The most affordable models are the 39mm, 41mm, and 44mm quartz versions, which start at around $1,100. 

These are perfect for those who want the iconic HydroConquest look and feel without breaking the bank. If you’re leaning toward the 32mm quartz models, expect to pay a bit more, around $1,775, due to their added luxury touches like diamonds and mother of pearl. 

Surprisingly, the automatic versions aren’t much more expensive than their quartz counterparts. So, if you can swing it, the automatic variants are definitely worth considering. 

These start at $1,375 and go up to $2,025 for the larger 44mm models, especially those with two-tone steel and gold cases and bracelets. It’s great value, considering you’re getting an upgraded movement with a 72-hour power reserve, not to mention the added prestige of an automatic watch. 

Availability is generally pretty solid, but like any popular model, certain configurations or colors may sell out faster than others. Still, with the HydroConquest’s enduring appeal, you can usually find one in stock at major authorized dealers and retailers like Exquisite Timepieces.

Conclusion

So, to summarize, the Longines HydroConquest is fantastic. There’s really not much else to say. It’s one of those rare watches that checks all the boxes, becoming the perfect daily beater, offering a perfect balance of style, durability, and versatility. Whether you’re diving into the ocean, heading out for a hike up a mountain, or suiting up for a formal event, this watch will always have your back. 

It’s tough, with 300 meters of water resistance, scratch-resistant sapphire glass, and a robust case. Yet, it’s also refined enough to slide under a shirt cuff and look sharp at a business meeting or dinner date. It’s one of those watches you’ll never have to worry about. It’ll always keep up with your lifestyle, and the variety of sizes, strap options, and movements mean there’s a perfect configuration for just about everyone. 

Bottom line? The HydroConquest is versatile, comfortable, and just a joy to wear. It’ll forever be one of the top watches I recommend, especially if you like the love of some of the more expensive diving watches on the market but don’t quite have the bank balance to support it.

In the collecting world today, there’s an ocean of interest around dive watches of all shapes and forms, from the extremes of the Omega Ploprof to the more restrained iconic Rolex Submariner. In this tide of options and similarity, it’s nearly impossible for a newcomer to stand apart from the crowd—yet I’ve found that the Longines HydroConquest GMT does just that, in a subtle but endearing manner that sets it charmingly apart from both the flights of travel watches and waves of dive watches that surround it. Its tool-like but elegant nature makes it a great everyday wear, coupled with intense functionality.

History

As it turns out, Longines as a brand has perhaps the strongest link to GMT watches as a whole, which makes the HydroConquest GMT a particularly compelling piece thanks to the historical legacy that it plays a part in. The first watch ever to feature two time zones was a Longines pocket watch made in 1911, and they would continue this travel-focused trend with the first GMT wristwatches in 1925.

Longines today has continued their emphasis on GMT and travel watches with several different collections featuring this complication, including the Spirit Zulu Time GMT, the Master Collection GMT, and finally, the HydroConquest GMT.

Important to note as well is that the HydroConquest GMT is a modification of the original HydroConquest line, which is the standard Longines dive watch. Overall, I see it as an upgrade to go from the original dive watch functionality to maintaining all those aquatic features with the addition of the GMT function. As a whole, this is a spectacular watch on its own that also stands within a broad historical context of advanced development in GMT functions by Longines.

Case

The HydroConquest GMT is nothing if not a purpose-built tool, and its simple steel case reflects that in every way. One of the first design details to catch my eye upon first seeing it was the large sloping crown guards. Crown guards can easily stand out harshly against the rest of the design if they’re added as an afterthought to protect the vulnerable crown. In this case (pun intended), it’s clear that Longines very intentionally included them as a part of the design, as they flow very seamlessly into the case itself and clearly reference the shape of the lugs. They’re also quite restrained and don’t block the usage of the crown itself for winding.

As a whole, the case is uniformly brushed, a very muted effect that adds to the tool-like nature of the piece. This is set in contrast with the few places where a high polish has been applied—namely, the crown and the bezel.

While I’m always a sucker for a healthy dose of visual contrast in different polishing finishes, the choice to set the crown and bezel apart with high polishing does come with consequences. Both of these areas are the places you’ll touch most when interacting with the watch, and the high polish makes them quite a bit slipperier than if they were simply brushed. As such, it can at times be difficult to use these features. That said, the crown does have an extremely smooth winding action, so it won’t require much effort beyond keeping your fingers firmly on it as you wind.

The sapphire crystal is flat and rather simple, but it is also heavily tool-built and utilitarian thanks to the toughness provided by the sapphire. Furthermore, it is coated with several layers both outside and inside with anti-reflective coating, which provides for extreme legibility in almost any situation, even in direct sunlight.

The case itself comes in two sizes depending on the model—some models offer both, and others are available only in one of the two sizes. The options are 41mm and 43mm in diameter, neither one of which is overly large for a tool watch of this nature.

All options are 12.9mm thick—which frankly is not bad at all for a complicated watch such as this! Important to note as well is that the smaller models have a 21mm lug-to-lug measurement for adding replacement straps, while the larger ones are at 22mm. It will certainly be easier to find straps at the more even 22mm measurement, but those with smaller wrists may find the choice of a lesser diameter much more compelling.

The bezel closely matches the dial for each model and as such can be colored or monochromatic. It’s highly polished, which produces a lovely shine against the brushed finish on the case. As a dive bezel rather than a typical GMT bezel—this is, after all, the HydroConquest collection—it is equipped with a 60-minute scale where every five minutes is marked as well as the individual minutes up to 15.

The bezel is unidirectionally rotating to prevent it from accidentally skipping backwards. It’s a great touch that adds functionality whether you intend to use it for diving or just to time how long your casserole should be in the oven.

In all, it’s certainly not a case that is immediately striking as excessively beautiful or dazzling. It’s a tool, just like the rest of the watch, and from the toughness of the steel to the extra crown guards to the coated sapphire crystal, it does its job remarkably well—and even with a touch of elegance.

Dial

With the dial, we get into the real variation in the HydroConquest GMT family. Each dial features a variety of indices to help easily distinguish between the hours—a triangle at 12:00, circles at 6:00 and 9:00, and rectangular markers to fill in all the rest. Note that the 3:00 date window means that there is no marker at this position. The hands are a curious shape, and the hour hand has a certain diamond structure which fits well with the overall theme of shape indices. The GMT hand, likewise, is a simple and legible arrow.

The dial color matches with the bezel on any variant of the HydroConquest GMT, from the colored ones to those which are more plain. A gentle sunburst finish has been applied, allowing for better legibility in the way it captures light as well as another touch of elegance in elevating this watch above a fully utilitarian presentation. The minute track and date window are rendered in the same color as the lume on the indices and hands, which is present in copious amounts for extremely high legibility in low-light situations. In the green and brown dial models, this lume is in a rich cream color meant to evoke the patina of older tritium-lumed dive watches. All models glow a brilliant blue at night, which for me is evocative of the ocean depths as well as being an interesting choice considering that most lume options today are typically green.

The 24-hour GMT track is present only around the dial rehaut and does include a color differentiation between the 12-hour intervals of day and night. Naturally, this is meant to be paired with the GMT hand, which is so long it nearly touches the rehaut for maximum legibility. Unfortunately, the rehaut is rather slim, and I’ve found it can be quite difficult to reference in many situations. That said, I think that with enough use it will become intuitive for any user to determine the GMT hour even without a glance at the rehaut, since it is simply a 24-hour scale and as such there are two hour markings per hour on the dial. Even if this doesn’t become intuitive, it is still a simple matter to reference the rehaut—only it will take an extra moment of attention.

Ultimately, the HydroConquest GMT dial is a key element to tying the watch all together, presenting uniformity with the bezel and adding a delightful boost of charm and refinement to an otherwise utilitarian watch.

Movement

The HydroConquest GMT features the Caliber L884.5, a powerful and accurate GMT movement. What’s important to note, first of all, is that this movement is not in-house. It’s based on the ETA A31.411, and this version of it was not developed by Longines but by ETA. That said, it is exclusive for Longines’ use, so it is at least relatively special to Longines. It’s also clear that in this case the line between in-house and not in-house is rather blurred, as both Longines and ETA are part of the Swatch Group. It’s more like in-neighborhood if not in-house.

The L844.5 is identical to the caliber L844.4 GMT movement used in the Longines Spirit Zulu Time. However, the L844.4 is sent out by Longines to be certified by COSC for accuracy, which means that as these movements are identical, the L844.5 can also be regulated to COSC standards, despite not receiving an official certification. This means that collectors can get a watch with all the prestigious accuracy of a COSC-certified mechanical wonder with none of the price hike that often comes with sending movements out for this certification. I personally find that this is a more than satisfactory trade-off, as COSC certification is truly just a label meant to express the accuracy that wearers will be able to notice anyways.

The Caliber L844 is truly a spectacular movement. It has everything you could ask for from a hardcore traveler’s watch or an advanced dive watch: 300 meters of water resistance, 72 hours of power reserve, and hacking seconds for accurate time setting. It beats at the rather curious rate of 25,200 bph, which is 3.5 beats per second.

The final key detail to note is the L844 has a “true” or “traveler’s” GMT function. This means that the hour hand can be set independently of the others by pulling the crown out to one stop. This means that when traveling the GMT hand can be set to home time and the hour hand can easily be reset to whatever time zone you happen to be in, which allows for very easy and accessible use. Note however that since the one-stop position is taken by the independent hour hand, there is no way to independently change the date apart from rotating the hands. This isn’t a major issue, but it can get a little annoying if you find yourself having to make a big change. In that case, shame on you anyways for not wearing your lovely watch for so long!

Straps

Depending on the specific model you purchase, the HydroConquest GMT collection has a variety of options: rubber, NATO fabric, or a metal bracelet. Of these options, I find the bracelet the most attractive—it adds to the sporty look of the watch in a classy way that a different material can’t quite accomplish. However, it all really depends on what sort of look you’re searching for, and the NATO and rubber are also sporty options that are very versatile and can also add to the overall color palette of the watch, making it a little brighter and more showy.

The bracelet in particular is interesting and while it’s always nice to have an integrated bracelet with a sports watch, I find Longines’ bracelet not quite up to my tastes. It’s strictly utilitarian, just like the rest of the watch, and some will appreciate this visual continuity. To accomplish this utilitarian spirit, Longines finished the entire bracelet in a simple brushing, making it continuous with the case. In my eyes, this makes it a little visually uninteresting, as it’s entirely uniform and there’s no contrasting areas of polish. Again, it’s a choice focused on continuity and utilitarianism above all—people using this watch as it was designed will hardly be interested in having it extra polished when that could be so easily scratched!—and I respect the choice in this respect, even though I do find myself longing for just a touch more shine.

The bracelet, apart from its finishing, has a likewise simple construction. It features a push button clasp which cleanly and easily snaps and releases. Overall, as a tool, it leaves nothing to be desired.

On-Wrist Experience

The Longines HydroConquest GMT is a fantastic companion on any adventure, whether it’s to the office, the depths of the sea, or across the world. That strictly utilitarian nature that Longines strives so hard to push further absolutely shines in many circumstances, especially for those who find themselves living especially adventurous lifestyles.

As I mentioned before, I’m a big fan of the green and brown dial options. I find the colors involved just the right amount of subdued and the way the colors work with the cream lume is a positively delightful combo. I’m also particularly partial to the black dial with orange highlights in a way that I would never have expected as it’s such a monochromatic watch as a whole—yet those orange highlights provide just the right pop of color to make it playful in a simple but effortlessly cool manner.

Having multiple strap options for a watch like this is an absolute must. Each different strap provides a totally different look for the HydroConquest GMT in a way that any true fan of the watch would positively drool over. The bracelet is sporty but classy, while the NATO is inherently adventurous and the rubber takes the sportiness to another level. If you’re feeling adventurous, you could even try it on a leather strap for slightly dressier occasions. Just don’t try to take it to a black tie event!

Price & Availability

The HydroConquest GMT is not a limited edition, so it’ll remain available for a long time. It can be purchased via Longines’ website or in-store, or via Exquisite Timepieces.

Each watch is at a different price point depending on the strap it comes with. NATO strap options are the least expensive at $2,675, while rubber is a slight premium at $2,775 and bracelet at $2,975. Again, I believe the added price of the steel bracelet is a worthwhile price, but it’s also understandable if you prefer the look of the NATO or rubber, which both are a nice touch. For versatility, consider ordering a model on the bracelet and then adding another strap as an option to your purchase.

Conclusion

It’s clearly not for nothing that the HydroConquest GMT enjoys a serious following among dedicated collectors as well as among the general public. Its variety of color options coupled with extreme functionality and relatively affordable price are all wildly endearing characteristics, and any discerning collector would be remiss to pass this one up.