Category: Longines

When we think of luxury watches, the usual big names come to mind like Rolex, Omega, maybe even Patek Philippe. But outside of those high-end brands, there are plenty of watchmakers you’ve probably come across just by going about your daily life. One said watchmaker is Longines.

Longines is a powerhouse in the Swiss watch industry, and not just because they’re part of the legendary Swatch Group, the same company that owns Tissot, Hamilton, Omega, Rado, and many others. Instead, Longines is largely known because they are so visible. When I say visible, I mean this is a watch brand you’ll have seen promoted several times in your life, maybe without even noticing.

Their branding is everywhere, from TV ads to billboards, and especially in the world of sports. If you’ve ever watched the Commonwealth Games, Ascot, the Kentucky Derby, or the Dubai World Cup, chances are you’ve seen the Longines name plastered all over the event.

And let’s be real, when a watch brand is trusted to keep time at some of the biggest sporting events in the world, that says something about its reputation for precision.

So, whether you’ve heard of Longines in passing or you’re completely new to the brand, today we’re going to break it all down. Is Longines actually worth your money? What makes Longines watches stand out? And should you seriously consider adding a Longines watch to your collection?

Longines Watches in the Past

Longines was founded in 1832 by Auguste Agassiz in Saint-Imier, Switzerland. The company originally operated as a traditional “comptoir,” otherwise known as a watch trading office, but they quickly gained a reputation for high-quality timepieces. By 1867, under the leadership of Ernest Francillon, Longines took a big step forward by centralizing production in a new factory in Les Longines, from which the brand took its name.

That same year, Longines introduced its first in-house movement, the 20A, which went on to win an award at the Universal Exhibition in Paris. This was just the beginning of Longines’ deep connection to precision and innovation. A few decades later, in 1889, they officially registered their now-iconic winged hourglass logo, making it the oldest registered watch trademark still in continuous use today.

By the early 20th century, Longines had become a major player in precision timing. They developed some of the earliest electromechanical timing systems for sports events, and by the 1920s, they were supplying highly accurate chronometers for pioneering aviators.

One of their most famous collaborations came in 1927 when Charles Lindbergh, fresh off his historic solo transatlantic flight, worked with Longines to create the Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch. This innovative tool was designed to help pilots navigate the skies more accurately.

Around the same time, they also worked with Philip Van Horn Weems to develop the Weems Second-Setting Watch, another important aviation timepiece. Longines’ commitment to precision made them the official timekeeper for countless major sporting events, including the Olympic Games, further cementing their place in the world of sports timing.

Over the years, Longines has produced some truly iconic watches. The Conquest line, introduced in 1954, was one of their first dedicated collections, marking a shift towards more recognizable model families.

In 1967, they launched the Ultra-Chron, one of the first high-frequency wristwatches, operating at 36,000 vibrations per hour which even now is an impressive technical achievement.

The 1960s also saw the release of the Longines Legend Diver, which has since become a highly sought-after vintage dive watch. These models, along with their aviation pieces, highlight Longines’ ability to blend technological advancements with classic, elegant designs.

By the time the 1980s rolled around, Longines had solidified its reputation as a brand that masterfully balanced heritage, precision, and timeless aesthetics.

Longines Watches Today 

Today, Longines continues to thrive as part of the Swatch Group, staying true to its roots while embracing modern technology.

Unlike some brands that push into extreme high horology or ultra-modern designs, Longines remains focused on creating elegant, precise, and accessible luxury watches.

They’re still a major force in sports timing, particularly in equestrian events, skiing, and tennis, where their long history of accuracy makes them a trusted name. 

Their modern collections reflect both their heritage and their drive for innovation. The Longines Master Collection, launched in 2005, is a perfect example of their dedication to timeless elegance.

One standout model is the Master Collection Moonphase, which offers a sophisticated yet approachable take on high complications. 

Then there’s the Longines Spirit Collection, a personal favourite of mine that’s a modern tribute to the brand’s aviation history. The Longines Spirit Zulu Time, with its GMT function, is understandably a popular model among frequent travellers and aviation enthusiasts alike. 

On the sportier side, the Longines HydroConquest remains one of the most popular dive watches in its price range, offering 300 meters of water resistance and modern upgrades like ceramic bezels and sapphire crystal glass.

Another heritage-inspired piece that has gained a strong following is the Longines Legend Diver, which retains the vintage charm of its 1960s predecessor while incorporating modern enhancements like an automatic movement and improved water resistance. 

In terms of technical advancements, Longines has made some impressive moves in recent years. Many of their watches now feature silicon balance springs, which improve resistance to magnetism and enhance longevity.

They’ve also introduced Longines V.H.P. (Very High Precision) quartz movements, which are accurate to within +/- 5 seconds per year putting these watches among the most precise quartz timepieces in the world. In 2023, they also expanded the Spirit line with monopusher chronographs, further proving their ability to blend vintage aesthetics with modern mechanics. 

Longines continues to occupy a unique space in the watch industry. Positioned between entry-level Swiss brands like Tissot and high-end brands like Omega, they offer a compelling mix of history, precision, and affordability. Looking ahead, it’s likely that they’ll continue refining their collections, introducing more heritage reissues, and incorporating new movements and materials into their designs.

What Makes Longines Watches Stand Out?

Most watch brands tend to fall into one of two categories: they’re either budget-friendly but lack deep heritage and advanced technology, or they boast both but come with a hefty price tag and a limited selection.

Longines, however, doesn’t quite fit into either. Instead, they have a fantastic balance of tradition, craftsmanship and value and it’s for this reason so many collectors and first-time buyers have chosen a Longines watch for their wrist. 

They’re a brand that truly understands how to blend history with modernity, creating timepieces that feel both classic and contemporary. Whether you’re looking for a refined dress watch, a rugged sports model, or a vintage-inspired reissue, Longines has something for every taste, lifestyle, and occasion.

 Something else that makes Longines so special is their commitment to quality. From the materials they use to the watchmaking techniques they employ, everything is done with precision and care.

Most Longines cases are made from high-grade stainless steel, ensuring durability while maintaining a polished and elegant finish. For those who want a little extra luxury, there are models available in solid 18k gold or even two-tone combinations that mix precious metals with steel.   

The dials are also always protected by sapphire crystal, which is highly resistant to scratches and keeps the watch looking pristine for years. Even the bracelets and straps are carefully chosen to match the character of each watch, whether it’s a supple leather strap for a dress watch or a sturdy rubber band for one of their diver’s models.

Of course, it’s not just about how a watch looks but also how it performs. As we’ve already detailed, Longines is known for its precision, so we’re pretty confident they’ll pass the test here.

They offer both high-quality quartz and mechanical movements with one of their most notable of the latter being the L888. It’s a tried and tested ETA calibre with an impressive 64-hour power reserve. That means you can take the watch off for the weekend and come back to it on Monday without having to reset the time. 

Many of their automatic movements also include a silicon balance spring, which makes them more resistant to magnetic fields and helps maintain long-term accuracy.

For those who want something even more precise, Longines’ Very High Precision (VHP) quartz movements are among the most accurate in the industry, keeping time within just a few seconds per year. 

To top it off, every Longines watch goes through a rigorous quality control process before leaving the factory.

Each piece is tested for water resistance, accuracy, and durability to ensure it meets the brand’s high standards. This is particularly important for models like the HydroConquest, a watch designed for divers and built to handle extreme underwater conditions. 

We also need to talk about Longines’ ability to appeal to a wide audience thanks to their incredibly diverse range of watches.

There’s truly something for everyone. If you love the elegance of a classic dress watch, the Master Collection and DolceVita offer timeless sophistication.

If you prefer vintage-inspired designs with a sense of history, the Heritage collection is filled with reissues of some of Longines’ most iconic models, like the Legend Diver and the Heritage Military. 

For those who live an active lifestyle, the Conquest and HydroConquest collections provide durable, stylish sports watches that can handle anything from a boardroom meeting to a weekend adventure.

And if you’re drawn to aviation history, the Longines Spirit line pays tribute to the brand’s long-standing connection to pilots with bold, functional designs that still feel refined. 

The variety doesn’t stop at styles either. Longines offers a huge range of case sizes, dial colors, materials, and complications, so there’s always a watch that feels like the perfect fit.

Whether you want a simple three-hand dress watch, a chronograph for precise timing, or a GMT function to track multiple time zones, Longines has something that suits your needs. And because their designs are rooted in timeless elegance, they never feel outdated. 

Finally, and possibly the most important reason Longines’ collections are worth exploring is that on top of their heritage, craftsmanship, precision, and style, these are watches that come at a price point that remains accessible compared to many other Swiss luxury brands.

You get genuine Swiss quality without having to spend an exorbitant amount, making Longines one of the best value watchmakers in the watch world. It’s a brand that allows more people to experience the beauty of fine watchmaking without compromising on quality.

Should you get a Longines Watch? 

If you were to ask me whether it’s worth buying a Longines watch, then I’d not hesitate to say yes. If you’re looking for a timepiece that beautifully balances heritage, craftsmanship, and affordability, then there’s not much point looking anywhere else.

This Swiss watchmaker has ingeniously occupied a space in the watch world that so many others have failed to do, offering Swiss-made luxury without the extreme price tags of some of its competitors. 

Whether you’re after a rugged sports watch, a refined dress piece, or something with vintage charm, Longines has a collection that fits the bill. For those who appreciate classic pilot or field watches with a luxury edge, I highly recommend the Longines Spirit collection.

Inspired by the brand’s deep aviation history, these watches have a bold yet refined aesthetic, with crisp dials, oversized crowns, and COSC-certified chronometer movements for precision. They channel the spirit of early explorers and aviators while still being perfectly suited to everyday wear. 

If durability and versatility is more of what you’re after, the Longines Conquest collection is an ideal choice. These watches are built to handle an active lifestyle, offering robust cases, strong water resistance, and a look that transitions effortlessly from the gym to the office to an evening out.

For a sportier finish but with true dive watch capabilities, the Longines HydroConquest is a worthy upgrade. This collection is designed for water enthusiasts and adventure seekers, boasting serious dive-ready specs like 300 metres of water resistance, unidirectional rotating bezels, and luminous markers for visibility in low-light conditions. 

For those who gravitate more toward refined elegance, Longines has no shortage of stunning dress watches. The DolceVita collection, with its Art Deco-inspired rectangular cases, is a favourite of mine.

These watches exude old Hollywood glamour and provide the luxury feel of something like a Cartier Tank, but at a far more attainable price.

Alternatively, if you prefer a more traditional round dress watch, the Longines Master Collection is a perfect blend of timeless aesthetics and sophisticated watchmaking.

Not only are these watches beautifully designed, but they also feature impressive complications, from moon-phase displays to chronographs and even GMT functions, the latter being an uncommon yet welcome addition in the world of dress watches. 

For those who love vintage-inspired timepieces, Longines has some of the best heritage reissues on the market.

The aptly named Heritage Collection brings back some of the brand’s most iconic designs, refined with modern materials and movements.

One standout is the Heritage Diver, a watch that pays tribute to Longines’ rich history in underwater exploration. With its bold, cushion-shaped case and retro charm, it’s a perfect choice for those who appreciate old-school dive watch aesthetics with modern performance. 

An underrated gem in the lineup is the Longines Record collection. It’s not talked about as often as some of Longines’ more mainstream offerings, but it’s a watch that deserves more attention.

The Record pairs vintage-inspired design with impressive mechanical technology, featuring movements equipped with a silicon balance spring for added durability and accuracy. Even more impressively, these movements are chronometer-certified by COSC, meaning they’ve passed rigorous precision tests. 

Ultimately, there’s a Longines watch for nearly every taste, lifestyle, and occasion. Even if you’ve not seen something here that takes your fancy, we highly recommend exploring their collection in more detail. There are plenty more models I’ve not had the time to mention, all with serious specs, a beautiful history and an accessible price tag. 

Conclusion 

As I’ve hopefully explained, Longines stands out in the crowded world of luxury watches for far more than its widespread visibility and strong marketing presence. While it’s true that the brand’s association with prestigious sporting events and high-profile sponsorships has certainly made its name known, there’s a deeper story at play here. 

Longines is a brand that blends centuries of heritage with modern innovation, crafting timepieces that reflect both precision and elegance. Its long-standing reputation for high-quality movements, along with a diverse range of designs to suit any lifestyle, ensures that it remains a favorite for watch enthusiasts. 

But what truly sets it apart is the ability to deliver Swiss-made luxury at a price that’s accessible without compromising on craftsmanship or quality. We all want a watch that looks and feels the part, but we don’t always have the tens of thousands of dollars to achieve that with other watchmakers. Thankfully, with brands like Longines, you get the best of both worlds. So yes, Longines watches are worth buying.

During the Covid-19 pandemic, we became keenly aware of global events and their relationship to our own locations and situations. As the lockdown eased, we jumped over our quarantine fences, eager to travel again and cross multiple time zones on our way to new adventures.

Longines is a longstanding, storied brand that knows a great deal about travel and hurdling boundaries. Since their inception, the brand’s exceptional timepieces have played a historic role in amazing feats of trailblazers of all sorts, especially early 20th-century aviation pioneers. 

So, it’s no surprise in this renewed period of world exploration that Longines released a watch honoring these roots while offering a modern, featured-packed value proposition in the form of the Spirit Zulu Time GMT.

This review will provide a close-up look at this groundbreaking GMT watch and how Longines has positioned it as a flagship piece that captures the true “spirit” of the company’s exploration history.

About the Longines Spirit Zulu Time

The Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT debuted in 2022 and is capable of tracking multiple time zones. Traditionally, the acronym GMT has referred to “Greenwich Mean Time”, which is the Prime Meridian (representing 0˚) that runs through the courtyard of the Royal Observatory in southeast London. 

A more modern term is “UTC” or “Coordinated Universal Time”. Another older one is “Zulu Time”, signifying “zero hours”, and is derived from the NATO phonetic alphabet universally used by pilots and military personnel.

The Zulu Time’s aviation roots are clearly shown through its oversized crown, Arabic numerals, and highly legible dial. Still, the watch design follows current “new-vintage reinterpretation” trends. 

Also, it offers great build quality and execution enhanced with contemporary finishing touches, bracelets and straps featuring cutting-edge perks like a quick-change release system for fast and easy switch-outs, leather deployant straps with “on-the-fly” micro-adjustment, and a proprietary, COSC-certified movement.

The Longines Zulu Time is available in 42mm and 39mm case sizes in both steel-only and “two-tone” steel and gold, a large palette of colorways, and stainless steel bracelet, leather, and canvas NATO-style strap options that vary according to the model. 

There are currently 18 references (9 each in both 42mm and 39mm options), the majority of which are available at Exquisite Timepieces.

History of Longines Spirit Watches

Longines was founded in 1832 in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, by Auguste Agassiz. Longines is one of the oldest luxury watch manufacturers in the world, and their winged, hourglass logo dates to 1889, making it the oldest trademark still in use in its original form registered with the World Intellectual Property Organization. 

Now a part of the Swatch Group, Longines combines “old school” sensibilities with the synergistic power of economies of scale and contemporary watchmaking technology.

Among Longines’ early innovations were the world’s first monopusher chronograph in 1878 and high frequency (36,000 bph) pocket watch in 1929. Many associate the advent of GMT watches with the 1950s, but Longines staked out the multiple timezone turf much earlier. 

In 1908, the company created their first two timezone pocket watches, and in 1925, Longines launched their forerunner dual-time wristwatch, which featured the “Zulu” flag on its dial.

Longines’ archive is filled with watches carrying the stories of men and women who bravely struck out and redrew boundary lines during the rise in global exploration that marked the early 20^th century. 

Famous pilots such as Charles Lindbergh, Amelia Earhart, Howard Hughes, and Amy Johnson, as well as Arctic explorers like Paul-Emile Victor, all wore Longines watches on their adventures.

This long-standing essence of exploration animates the soul of the modern Longines “Spirit” collection, which was rolled out in 2020. The company’s goal was to combine “traditional features of pilot’s watches” and combine them with “contemporary lines and codes”. 

Since the Zulu Time’s launch in 2022, Longines has positioned it as the “crown jewel” of the Spirit collection and the perfect travel companion for contemporary adventurers possessing all levels of skill and ambition.

Longines Zulu Time: In-Depth Review

The Longines Spirit Zulu Time has been one of the hottest new GMT watches on the scene since 2022. As we drill down into its impressive specs, it will become obvious why it has become the focus of attention for so many enthusiasts and collectors.

Case Sizes & Materials

The initial case size and material offered in 2022 was all-steel with a 42mm diameter, a relatively large lug-to-lug width of 49.40mm, a lug width of 22mm, and a center thickness of 13.90mm. 

The reception was enthusiastic, but the solid end links produced an even wider fit, which did not suit a significant number of people who might have otherwise bought in, including this writer. I tried on the initial 42mm version in early 2022 in Lucerne, Switzerland, during a vacation. 

I was itching to commemorate my own “expedition” to the Swiss Alps with a GMT, but the excessive lug overhang on my 6.5-inch wrist prevented me from pulling the trigger.

Longines heard from many asking for a more universally sized, sub-40mm case. Proving themselves a company responsive to constructive feedback, Longines quickly answered with a 39mm diameter model in 2023 with a slimmer and more wrist-confirming profile and a reduced lug-to-lug width of 46.80mm, 21mm lug width, and a center-thickness of 13.50mm.

For those wanting a touch more elegance, Longines added “two-tone” Zulu Time steel models in both diameters enhanced with a 200-micron thick, 18K gold capped crown (all-gold except for the central steel inner tube) and external bezel ring. 

The crystal is domed sapphire, and the crown is slightly oversized in the manner of aviation-focused watches, making for easy grasping and smooth turning. The steel is mostly satin brushed, but the multi-faceted lugs receive a nice aesthetic boost in the form of a polished chamfered edge to enhance the transition between levels. 

The caseback is solid, secured with 6 screws to provide 100 meters of water resistance, and engraved with the Longines Zulu Time name framing a winged, hourglass logo superimposed over a stylized globe etched with latitudinal and longitudinal lines.

Bezels

The main byword to remember about the Zulu Time bezel is: Ceramic! How often do you get a richly colored, glossy ceramic bezel on a watch in this price range? Rarely.

Both diameter sizes are available in bezel colorways of black, dark green, and blue for all-steel cases, with the addition of chocolate brown for steel/18K gold case references. The 24-hour bezel is marked with white, non-lumed Arabic numerals in most models and vintage faux patina (i.e. “khaki”) in the steel/gold version. 

The bidirectional, rotating coin edge bezel turns and ratchets smoothly with 24 clicks and can be used to track two time zones with the bezel in the natural position (triangle at the 12 o’clock position) or rotated to show three (e.g., local, UTC, and UTC offset).

Dials

The Zulu Time’s dial aesthetics and execution support Longines’ strategic goal of honoring the past while embracing the future. The collection is filled with dial, bezel, and handset colors and combinations for everyone, whether a traditionalist who seeks a vintage vibe or a modernist leaning more toward contemporary design cues.

Among the 18 references in the Zulu Time collection, there are multiple dial and bezel color combinations varying according to case materials and strap/bracelet options (I’ll cover some of these in more detail under “Most Popular” models). Remember that all available combinations are obtainable in both 42mm and 39mm case diameters. 

Beyond the color palette, other dial features include baton hour and minute hands, a seconds hand with a diamond-shaped tip, and an arrow-tipped, bi-colored GMT hand. Both extend all the way to the minute track and chapter ring, creating enhanced legibility, with the GMT sitting close to the dial but high enough to clear the applied Arabic numeral hour indices.

The depth created by the indices is further enhanced by small, lumed diamond cuts in both the dial face next to each hour marker and step up chapter ring. The Zulu Time’s Super-LumiNova® illumination level is not “diver quality” but is still more than adequate for terrain activities. 

There is a date window at 6 that balances well vertically with the Longines stamp, logo, and the somewhat controversial “5 stars” emblem, which, while making for a little too much dial clutter for some tastes, is nevertheless a nod to Longines’ past use of the term to describe their watches’ superlative quality.

Movement

In the past, Longines developed and produced their own movements. However, since being acquired by the Swatch Group, the company has relied more on its stepsibling company ETA for its movements. 

The Zulu Time GMT uses the L844.4 caliber, which is derived from a base caliber ETA A31.411 that Longines and ETA modified to meet COSC-certified chronometer standards (+6/-4 seconds per day).

While not an “in-house” movement in the most technical sense, it is nonetheless a proprietary, automatic powerplant that not only attains certified chronometer performance but also features a 72-hour power reserve, 21-jewels, a beat rate of 25,200 vibrations per hour (3.5 Hz), a date complication (but no quick set), and a silicon balance spring for enhanced antimagnetic protection.

But probably the most important feature in the minds of GMT aficionados is the Zulu Time’s “true” or “traveler’s” GMT capability (as opposed to a “desk” or “calling” GMT). A “traveler” GMT is more suited for someone crossing multiple time zones since it has a “jumping” hour hand that can be changed independently of the GMT hand without interrupting the watch’s timekeeping functions. This allows globetrotters to set the new local time with the hour hand while leaving the GMT hand unchanged from one’s home time zone.

Strap Options

The Longines Zulu Time is offered with an all stainless steel bracelet, brown, blue, or beige leather strap, or brown synthetic NATO strap, depending on the reference. 

The stainless steel bracelet is a 3-link style with solid end links and mostly brushed satin finishing except for thin outer sections of the inner links, the inner edges on the outer links, and the ends of the outer links.

There is a sharp, vintage-style taper to a 2-button, fold-over Longines-stamped clasp with 5 traditional micro-adjustment settings. Pins are used to remove links for adjustments, and there is no “on-the-fly” adjustment. While not quite as refined as the case, the bracelet is nonetheless very good quality and more than up to the task of everyday wear with a sporty dash of flair.

Leather straps are high-quality calfskin and come with a convenient, “on-the-fly” micro-adjust feature operated by a two-button system on the side of the engraved, Longines signatured deployant clasp. 

Both the bracelet and straps come with a quick-change release system that allows convenient and hassle-free swap-outs of the various options. The synthetic brown NATO strap is currently available only with the steel/18K gold case models.

Most Popular Longines Spirit Zulu Time Models

Here are 5 popular Zulu Time models that demonstrate the wide range of the collection:

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Green Bezel 39mm (ref. L3.802.4.63.6)

A refined, “sweet spot”-sized 39mm diameter steel case combined with a dark green bezel and anthracite dial produces a striking appearance, and the gilt handset and indices, along with heavy faux patina, enable this piece to lean vintage and give the company’s past pioneers a full frontal hug. 

While some collectors object to the faux vintage trend in modern watches, the bonus of a matching stainless steel bracelet with contemporary perks (which costs only $100 more than leather strap references) nonetheless makes this model one of the most popular in the Zulu Time lineup.

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Black Dial 42mm (ref. L.812.4.53.6)

This reference offers a viable alternative for those who don’t favor faux vintage styling and instead want more modern design elements. 

Part of the initial 2022 42mm launch, it features a stainless steel bracelet, a white color scheme for the handset, indices and bezel markings, and a black/ black bezel-dial combination that adds sport/dress versatility paired with a playful splash of contrasting blue on the GMT hand and in the “Zulu Time” lettering on the dial.

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Blue Dial 39mm (ref. L3.802.4.93.2)

This is perhaps the boldest and most avant-garde Zulu Time reference. We could nickname it the “Triple-B” for its blue bezel, blue dial, and blue leather strap with contrasting white stitching. 

The orange tip and arrow of the GMT hand and the ‘Zulu Time’ stamp provide an additional pop of color. It’s definitely a sportier look, but remember that quick-change release system. You can dress it up or tone it down as your mood or situation dictates by spending some extra bucks for a Longines steel bracelet or beige or brown strap (or an aftermarket option).

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Two-Tone 39mm on Leather Strap (ref. L3.802.5.53.2)

If you need a little bit of precious metal in your life and on your wrist, this one is a good option. Two-hundred microns of 18K Gold cap on both the crown and bezel edge give this an upscale feel without being overstated or screaming, “Hey mister, mug me!” 

It has vintage styling and colorways that feel similar to the steel-only ref. L3.802.4.63.6, but a leather strap instead of metal tones it down even further and strengthens the deceptive “stealth wealth” sleight of hand.

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Black Dial 39mm on Leather Strap (ref. L3.802.4.53.2)

This reference packs a well-finished, stainless steel case size for a wide range of wrists, a black/black bezel-dial color scheme with a sharp snap of contrasting blue on the “Zulu Time” dial stamp and GMT hand, and a high-quality brown leather strap with white stitching. 

If not an exemplar of a “one and done” watch, it still emits a quintessential jack-of-all-trades “GADA” vibe that can walk the tightrope between dress and sport, especially with the addition of a steel bracelet.

Should You Buy a Longines Zulu Time?

If you’re in the market for one of the best all-around “true GMT” value propositions, you should definitely put the Longines Spirit Zulu Time on your shortlist— then on your wrist. I know that if I ever meet a 39mm model “in the wild” and try it on, my wallet will likely end up a little lighter.

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Pricing & Availability

The Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT is readily available (including at Exquisite Timepieces), and the retail price range, depending on the reference features, is $3,050-$4,550. Exquisite Timepieces also currently lists a preowned 42mm all-steel model for $2,300.

Conclusion

Considering Longines’ rich brand history of pioneering and the Zulu Time GMT’s unique blend of heritage, fine finishing, and cutting-edge technology that would normally only be seen in watches costing thousands more, you would be hard-pressed to find a better watch to accompany you on your travels, whether they take you to Timbuktu or simply down the street to buy milk at your local Target.

UPDATE: Since this review was written, Longines has bolstered their Zulu Time offerings with their release of an all-titanium model (ref. L3.802.1.53.6) that is already producing tremendous buzz among watch enthusiasts. The 39 mm case and bracelet are Grade 5 titanium with a gilted handset but white (no faux patina) numerals on the bi-color (half matt black, half polished black) bi-directional 24-hour bezel. At $4,275 US it’s a significant jump in price from its all-steel siblings, but the added robustness and reduced weight of titanium still make this model a surefire hit and a great value proposition.

Longines is an excellent luxury watch brand that has been around for nearly two centuries. Founded in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, in 1832 by Auguste Agassiz, the company has etched its position among the best brands. Starting in the early 20th century, Longines became associated with aviation and exploration with their Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch (a tribute to aviator Charles Lindberg). 

However, in this article, we’re primarily focusing on their gold dress watches, although we’ll throw in some sporty dress watches for good measure. We’ll dive deep into what we think are the 10 best gold watches that Longines has to offer, from modest, accessible luxury to those dripping with precious metals and gems that are sure to be statement pieces at your next formal event. 

About Longines Gold Watches

Longines has a deep watchmaking heritage, which is something educated watch buyers and collectors look for. They’ve consistently delivered quality, precise, well-built Swiss timepieces for nearly 200 years. That counts for something, in contrast to fast fashion brands that come and go. 

They’re a respected luxury brand, but not as expensive as some at the high end of the scale. Yet their logo and image are instantly recognizable. While some of their gold watches are PVD-coated, others are solid gold and made to last generations. 

Their gold timepieces are for those who demand the very best from their watches and jewelry. Many of their gold watches are dressy and, therefore, will appeal to those who frequently wear more formal attire. They’re also perfect for those with warmer skin tones that yellow and rose gold colors complement. 

What To Look For in Longines Gold Watches?

Longines is known for their elegance, build quality, and value. So, one can’t go wrong with any of their models. However, to help one make a more informed decision on the purchase of their next Longines gold watch, we hope this guide will prove useful. 

Real Gold vs. Gold Plated

Gold plating, in most cases, is stainless steel with a thin layer of gold over it. In terms of timepieces, these build materials are typically in reference to the case, bezel, and sometimes the bracelet. Obviously, steel is far more accessible than gold, and with only a thin layer of gold, the watch will be far less expensive than something that is solid gold. 

However, gold plating isn’t designed to last decades and generations like solid gold and often wears off, exposing the steel underneath. Real gold or solid gold, on the other hand, is far more expensive, as it’s a precious metal that’s more rare than steel. It will outlast gold plating, and if scratched, it can be polished. 

Watch Purpose

Consider what you’re expecting from this watch. Are you looking for something dressy to wear for a special occasion? Do you regularly dress up for work? Or do you want a timepiece that’s more versatile? 

Do you expect your watch to also perform in outdoor activities like swimming and diving and be rugged enough for exploring? In that case, you might want to consider a dress-sports wristwatch that can serve multiple purposes. 

Price

If you’re on a budget, you might want to consider watches that are gold plated or PVD coated that are simply gold-colored and not real gold. Those types of Longines watches tend to run around $1,500. However, if you’re looking for an opulent timepiece that will last, be prepared to spend several thousand dollars or more. 

The Best Longines Gold Watches

1. LONGINES ELEGANT ROSE GOLD (REF. L4.787.8.11.4)

Part of the Elegant collection from Longines, the L4.787.8.11.4 is just that, a refined gentleman’s wristwatch. The 18-karat rose gold case measures 37mm and sits on the wrist at 8.1mm thick. 

The white dial features painted black Roman numerals, black hour and minute hands, and a rose gold seconds hand. Just below 12 o’clock is the Longines logo, and at 3 o’clock is a date window. 

Under the hood, the timepiece is powered by an automatic ETA caliber 2892-A2 with a 64-hour power reserve. The watch is water resistant to 30 meters and comes with a five-year warranty. The timepiece is fitted with a black alligator leather strap with a folding clasp for extra security. 

Price: $4,750

2. LONGINES DOLCE VITA ROSE GOLD (REF. L5.512.8.71.0)

This is a lovely gold women’s timepiece from Longines. The Dolce Vita is in rose gold, and its rectangular 18 karat case measures 23mm by 37mm, including its fixed gold bezel. The silver dial displays steel blue painted Roman numerals with a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. The hour and minute hands are also steel blue. The push-and-pull crown is also in rose gold.

The timepiece is powered by a Longines caliber L176 quartz movement. The face of the watch is protected by a sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 30 meters. The caseback is solid, and the timepiece is fitted with a black leather strap in an alligator-like pattern with a rose gold tang buckle. 

Price: $6,150

3. LONGINES FLAGSHIP YELLOW GOLD (REF. L4.984.3.37.7)

This isn’t exactly a gold watch, but it looks gold and that counts for something! The stainless steel with PVD yellow gold measures 40mm and sits on the wrist at 8.7mm thick. The fixed stainless steel and yellow PVD bezel are smooth and polished. 

The champagne dial features yellow gold colored hands and diamond-like studs marking the hours with a double stud at 12 o’clock and a date window at 3 o’clock. 

Powering the timepiece is the L888 in-house automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve. The watch is water-resistant to 30 meters, and the face is protected by sapphire crystal. The timepiece is paired with a titanium TiC-coated two-tone bracelet with a deployant clasp. Overall, this is a handsome watch with good specs at a reasonable price. 

Price: $2,325

4. LONGINES RECORD (REF. L2.820.8.92.2)

This is another stylish timepiece from Longines that’s bound to turn heads. The Record has a fixed, smooth, polished rose gold colored bezel made of stainless steel that measures 39mm and sits on the wrist at 11mm thick. The blue sunray dial plays beautifully with the light. The hands and applied hour markers are rose gold colored. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock for added functionality. 

The watch is powered by the L888.4 automatic movement that is COSC-certified, which bolsters its reputation as a chronometer. The timepiece is water resistant to 30 meters, the face is protected by a sapphire crystal, and the caseback is open, displaying the movement. The watch is paired with a blue alligator-like leather strap with a tang buckle. 

Price: $7,150

5. LONGINES DOLCE VITA YELLOW GOLD GREEN DIAL (REF. L5.512.6.95.2)

The Dolce Vita in yellow gold offers stunning good looks that will make one the talk of the party. Longines describes this collection as capturing the “sweetness of life”. 

The rectangular 18-karat yellow gold dial offers a fixed smooth bezel and measures 23mm by 37mm, sits on the wrist at 7.2mm, and weighs 35.3 grams. The green dial is brushed at the center and offers yellow gold hands, a small seconds subdial at six o’clock, and is completed with gold-painted Roman numerals. 

The timepiece is powered by the L176 quartz movement. The watch is water resistant to 30 meters, and the face is protected by sapphire crystal. The timepiece is fitted with a green alligator leather strap with a tang buckle. The watch includes an interchangeable system that allows straps to be easily swapped out without the use of special tools. 

Price: $6,150

6. LONGINES MASTER COLLECTION ROSE GOLD (REF. L2.793.8.78.3)

The Master Collection Rose Gold puts off some strong classic, vintage design cues. The 18-karat rose gold case and fixed, smooth, polished bezel measures 40mm, sits on the wrist at 9.8mm thick, and has a lug width of 21mm. The silver dial offers a subtle waffle pattern, blue steel sword-shaped hands, blue painted numerals, and a date window at 3 o’clock. 

The timepiece is powered by the L888 in-house automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve. The face of the watch is protected by a sapphire crystal, and the case back is open, displaying the movement. The timepiece is fitted with a brown alligator leather strap with a folding clasp. 

Price: $8,200

7.  LONGINES WEEMS SECOND-SETTING WATCH (REF. L2.713.8.13.0)

The Longines Weems Second-Setting offers a 1920s vintage design to my eye. While it lacks a pulsometer, it kind of looks like those old doctor’s watches of that era. Uncharacteristic of the era, however, is the size of this timepiece, which is rather large at 47.5mm. 

The case and fixed, smooth bezel are rose gold. The large, onion-style crown is prominently displayed. The white dial, with painted black numerals, includes two lollypop-style, steel blue hour and minute hands, and a blue seconds hand. 

Under the hood, the watch is powered by an ETA caliber A07.L01 automatic movement with a 46-hour power reserve. The face of the timepiece is protected by a sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 30 meters. The watch is fitted with a brown alligator leather strap with contrasting white stitching and a tang buckle. 

Price: $18,625 

8. LONGINES EVIDENZA (REF. L2.142.8.73.2)

The tonneau-shaped 18-karat rose gold case with a fixed solid gold bezel of the Evidenza is a handsome classic. The silver dial offers steel blue hands against a circle pattern with blue numerals and a date window at 6 o’clock. The crown is ringed in blue, and its filigree work is a nice artisanal touch.

The timepiece is powered by Longines’ in-house caliber 595/592 automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve. It’s water-resistant to 30 meters and the face is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. The watch is backed by a 3-year warranty and is fitted with a brown leather strap with an alligator-like pattern and a tang buckle. 

Price: $6,200 

9. LONGINES HYDROCONQUEST TWO-TONE (REF. L3.742.3.56.7)

The Hydroconquest is a classic two-town design of steel and yellow gold. Unfortunately, it’s not solid gold, but rather a yellow gold-toned steel, but on the bright side, your wallet will thank you. 

This is a solid dress-sports watch that is dressy enough to be worn with a suit and sporty enough to alternatively be worn with jeans. The unidirectional dial is black with gold markers and indices. The stainless steel case measures 41mm and sits on the wrist at 12mm thick. 

The dial is a sunburst black with gold hands, the hour hand in a diamond shape, and the seconds hand with a small red tip. The mix of numbers and indices are in gold and the hours are also marked by white dots and luminescent. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock.

Powering the timepiece is an automatic movement with a 64-hour power reserve. The watch offers a screw-down crown and is water resistant to 300 meters, which makes it suitable for diving. 

The face of the timepiece is protected by sapphire crystal, and it comes with a 5-year warranty. The watch is fitted with a stainless steel 3-link bracelet with polished center gold tone links and a folding clasp. 

Price: $1,550 

10.  LONGINES MASTER COLLECTION MOTHER OF PEARL (REF. L2.257.8.87.3)

This is another charming model from the Master Collection that is sure to elicit compliments. The case and fixed, smooth bezel are made of a solid 18-karat rose gold, which measures 29mm. The dial is a white mother-of-pearl with rose gold sword-style hands and diamond studs marking the hours. There’s also a date window at 3 o’clock. The dial of this ladies’ timepiece is the star and offers a refined, elegant look. 

Powering the watch is Longines’ ETA-based caliber L595/592 automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve. The face of the timepiece is protected by sapphire crystal, and the open caseback displays the 20 jewel movement. The watch is water resistant to 30 meters and is backed by a 5-year warranty. It’s fitted with a brown alligator leather band, with white contrasting stitching, and a rose gold deployant clasp. 

Price: $5,959 

Parting Thoughts

Longines is a well-regarded luxury watch brand that offers some beautiful solid gold and gold-toned timepieces for men and women. In this article, we’ve sorted through all they have to offer, not just presently but in recent decades, to select the absolute 10 best gold Longines watches. 

Not only are these timepieces appealing to the eye, but they’re also well-made and fitted with all the right stuff under the hood. Any one of these will make a smart addition to your collection.