Author: Samar

Whether you are new to the hobby or a seasoned collector, you can’t help but notice the popularity of dive watches. They are the undisputed champions of not just the sports watch world but the watch world in general. I am by no means saying that they are the best or most practical for every situation, but they are the style of watch most responsible for carrying the financial weight of most mainstream brands.

I was kind of a late bloomer in the world of dive watches. I found myself more enamored with the simplicity of a time-only watch like the Rolex Explorer, while the Submariner garnered most of the mainstream attention. There were many factors that played into this preference, but one of the most substantial was simply the size. When I first got into watches, we were riding the peak of the big watch craze and slowly trending back to a more manageable case dimension.

In 2018, Tudor released the watch that really opened the floodgates into more compact dive watches with the release of the Tudor Black Bay 58, a 39mm vintage-inspired dive watch that lit the enthusiast community on fire and created waitlists for a watch whose sole purpose was to be an accessible watch to the everyday person.

Before the hype died down and I was finally able to pull the trigger on this dream dive watch, I went down a rabbit hole that many of us have gone down: The best mid-size dive watch. I discovered an incredible niche of watches that existed well before Tudor shined a light on the segment, and that was for 36mm dive watches. Often described as unisex, mid-size, boys, or women’s, these watches checked a lot of the boxes us more conservative collectors were looking for regardless of gender.

We are going to take a look at some of the best examples of 36mm dive watches that are as capable as they are wearable. Before we dive (pun completely intended) into the list, let’s first identify exactly what a dive watch is, some of the history, and who would actually want a 36mm example.

About Dive Watches

To put it simply, a dive watch is a watch that features a certain degree of water resistance, a method for timing elapsed time, and the ability to monitor this elapsed time in a dark environment. There is the ISO 6425 standard that places some more stringent qualifications on this description, such as 100 meters of water resistance and lume plots by every indice on the dial as well as the bezel, but not every dive style watch will be rated to this standard.

When I look for a dive watch, I am typically looking for a watch with at least 100 meters of water resistance and a rotatable bezel, whether internal or external. Bonus points are awarded to watches with 200 meters of water resistance and a screw-down crown. I don’t need these features (nor do 99% of collectors), but I feel a lot more confident washing the dishes and paddling a kayak with them!

History of Dive Watches

The dive watch as we know it really came into fruition in 1953 with the introduction of the Blancpain 50 Fathoms. The watch featured the iconic rotatable dive bezel and was quickly emulated by Rolex with their Submariner and Zodiac with the Seawolf, and as they say, the rest is history.

There have been several enhancements to dive watches, including helium escape valves, lockable bezels, and full lume dials, but really the recipe hasn’t strayed too far from the original. In the last 10 years or so, the greatest change has been the introduction of the vintage-inspired dive watch.

The process of looking back in the catalog for inspiration is a unique characteristic of watches today and is responsible for many of the watches on this list looking in their archive for their sizing as well. If you are looking for a more thorough history of dive watches, feel free to check out my best dive watches under $1000 guide.

Should you Buy a 36mm Dive Watch?

This is a great question that really comes down to personal preference. If you have a large wrist and like big watches, no, you should not buy a 36mm dive watch. If you have a small wrist and have longed for a capable dive watch, yes you absolutely should buy a 36mm dive watch. For those of us in between, with slightly smaller to slightly larger wrists, it will come down to preference. 

If you like a larger modern aesthetic and don’t mind the extra heft, I’d probably stick with some of the slightly larger options as the extra real estate on the dial truly is a benefit to the user experience. If you are bothered by a bulky watch or are someone that really wants to experience the feeling of a modernly built vintage-inspired watch, the 36mm is an absolute winner! 

Not only do you get a watch that is capable and wearable, but most of the time you get to save a pretty significant chunk of change when purchasing one compared to their larger siblings. For those of us open to the smaller case size, this is truly a win-win. 

The Best 36mm Dive Watches

Now that we have a little bit more of the backstory on dive watches, let’s begin our list of the 15 best 36mm dive watches.

1. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 36.25mm (ref. 212.30.36.20.03.001)

Any list of dive watches would feel incomplete without a selection from Omega. Known for their innovative movement technology, strong historical provenance, and value for money compared to industry leader Rolex, Omega is a brand that needs little introduction. 

Since the introduction of the “Bond” era Seamaster Diver 300M, Omega has released 2 size variations of their iconic dive watch to appease a multitude of wrist sizes. Even though that trend came to an end with their most recent iteration, the fact that Omega continued to produce 36mm dive watches through the “bigger is better” era of the 2000s is admirable.

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, ref. 212.30.36.20.03.001, is a 36.25mm stainless steel watch that features all of the characteristics of the previous generation’s full-size version. The helium escape valve, skeleton sword hands, and scalloped bezel are all present in this compact dive watch. The watch still utilizes the Co-Axial escapement in the form of the Caliber 2500, building off of the architecture of the ETA 2892.

Although available in several variations, the blue dial and ceramic bezel on the stainless steel bracelet are the most iconic of the style. You won’t find the wave motif on this iteration, but coming in at a pre-owned price of $3000-$3500, this Seamaster offers a modern specification and a clean aesthetic other Seamasters cannot.

2. Tudor Submariner Mid-Size (ref. 75090)

Although Rolex has not dabbled in the midsize dive watch game since their earliest examples in the 1950s, it doesn’t necessarily mean they don’t have an option for you. Even though Tudor set the watch world on fire with the 37mm case dimension of their Black Bay 54, there is a precedent for these smaller dive watches within their lineup.

The Tudor Submariner Mid-size, ref. 75090, is a 36mm stainless steel Submariner borrowing much of its design and parts from its bigger brother, Rolex. The watch features a sapphire crystal, Mercedes handset, tritium lume, and crown guards. The case comes in at a very svelte 10mm thanks to the ETA 2824 -2 movement that powers the watch. This watch is exactly what Hans Wilsdorf had in mind when he founded the brand Tudor.

A more affordable alternative to Rolex that can give a user a very similar ownership experience at a fraction of the price. Like most watches even associated with Rolex, that affordability part of the equation has slipped out of the grasp of many vintage collectors as most Tudor Submariner examples will fetch premiums near their Rolex big brother depending on condition. 

Thanks in part to its smaller dimension, this reference will set you back anywhere from $4500-$8000, depending on the condition.

3. Longines Legend Diver 36mm (ref. L3.374.4.50.0)

If you like the vintage styling of a watch from the late-1950s or early-1960s but want the modern construction and specification that comes with a new watch, few brands can provide as much value as Longines. They have a historical archive as deep as any Swiss watchmaker and are positioned in a place to provide these timepieces for an affordable price to a wide watch-collecting audience.

The Longines Legend Diver, ref L3.374.4.50.0, is a 36mm version of one of their most popular models since its release in 2012. This watch features an inner-rotatable dive bezel that is powered by a second crown on the timepiece. This helps prevent accidental knocking of the bezel and also helps to give the watch a distinct look compared to other options in this price range. 

This watch is powered by the L592 movement, featuring a silicon hairspring and a 45-hour power reserve. Coming in at a price of $2400, this watch represents great value for someone looking for a great everyday watch with a vintage aesthetic and a few tricks up its sleeve.

4. Oris Divers Sixty-Five 36mm (ref. 01 733 7747 4055-07 4 17 18)

If you are looking for value for money in the Swiss watch industry, few brands pack as much punch as Oris. The independently owned darling of the watch industry is known for providing consumers with well-built timepieces that can withstand a more active lifestyle.

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five is a model that has come to be a cornerstone of the Oris brand and provides entry-level luxury consumers with modern construction and specification while still maintaining the original charm of the Oris dive watches from the 1960s. 

Perhaps none of these timepieces are as faithful to that original specification as the Oris Divers Sixty-Five, ref. 01 733 7747 4055-07 4 17 18. This 36mm stainless steel watch on a tropic-style rubber strap matches the original case dimension and style of the time. The dial layout represents a more standard approach than some of the models with Arabic numerals, but the watch still exudes a charm that many vintage recreation watches miss out on. 

The watch has been criticized for its 100M of water resistance and less-than-perfect bezel action, but if you are looking for a modern spec monster, this may not be the watch for you. If you are looking for a dive watch that gives you the feeling of a 1960s classic while still maintaining many of the modern enhancements we have come to love, this Oris Divers Sixty-Five for $2100 is a great option to consider.

5. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 (ref. WBP231D.BA0626)

TAG Heuer is a brand with many identities. They have a strong vintage archive and are known for producing some of the most collectible vintage recreation watches available. They also have a more modern side that pushes the boundaries of engineering with watches like their Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon. 

But if there was one aspect of TAG Heuer that they are most known for outside of the watch enthusiast community, it is definitely their entry-level luxury watches, many of which come from their Aquaracer line. This line of dive watches covers the entry-level luxury segments and is available in several sizes and color iterations.

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300, ref. WBP231D.BA0626, is a 36mm stainless steel watch that comes on a matching stainless steel bracelet. Despite the smaller size, the watch shares the design language of its larger offering with the striped dial, 6 o’clock date, and dodecagon-shaped bezel (sounds crazy, but really just has some flat sides as opposed to the more standard circular shape). 

The watch is powered by the caliber 5 movement, which is a dressed-up version of the ETA 2824-2 or Sellita SW200-1. Coming in at a price of roughly $3300, this watch is on the higher end of watches featuring this movement, but given the quality of the watch and name cache of the brand, there is quite a bit of value in this timepiece.

6. Marathon MSAR Auto Arctic Edition (ref. WW194026SS-0530)

If you are looking for a modern-day military spec watch, few brands can compete with Canadian-based Marathon. While other watch brands lean into their historical archives to recreate their watches with military provenance, Marathon is able to look in their current catalog.

The biggest surprise to me, however, is not just that watches are being produced under military specification, but that they are being produced in sizes that are down-right wearable by those of us with slender wrists.

The Marathon MSAR Auto Arctic Edition, ref. WW194026SS-0530, is a great example of this capability. The 36mm stainless steel case is casual and wearable while maintaining the brutalist design language that made this watch a success in the larger variations. The arctic dial on this model absolutely pops while giving the dial an even smaller appearance with the contrasting black bezel. 

The watch is powered by the M2 Marathon movement, based on the Sellita SW200-1, and features a very robust 300M of water resistance. Coming in at a price of $1100 on the rubber strap, this Marathon diver is a great option for anyone looking for a modern take on a military dive watch.

7. Tissot Seastar 1000 36mm (ref. T120.210.11.041.00)

There are few brands that can offer the wide breadth of watches that SWATCH-owned Tissot can. From vintage recreations to modern classics, Tissot has a watch that will fit almost any need. One area that Tissot does not receive enough credit, however, is their ability to create very capable sports watches.

Tissot is pushing the boundaries of robustness more than any other entry-level luxury brand. While these innovations are definitely appreciated by the community, their ability to produce these watches in sizes anyone can enjoy is often overlooked.

The Tissot Seastar 1000 36mm, ref. T120.210.11.041.00, is a perfect example of a capable and versatile timepiece at a very comfortable price point for most enthusiasts at $395. What’s the Kicker? The watch is powered by a quartz movement. 

Before you rule this one out, think of its purpose and whether or not a quartz movement actually makes more sense here. I love mechanical movements as much as the next enthusiast, but if you’re looking for a robust and affordable engine for your watch, it is not going to be powered by a Swiss lever escapement and a mainspring; it will be powered by a quartz crystal. 

This 36mm stainless steel watch ticks a lot of boxes that we are looking for in an everyday or “beater” watch and even features a stunning blue dial, 300M of water resistance, and a better-than-expected stainless steel bracelet. If you are willing to look past the quartz movement, you can get yourself the best deal on the list with this Tissot Seastar 1000.

8. Breitling Superocean Heritage 36 (ref. A17377211C1A1)

When you think of the brand Breitling, more than likely, a highly complicated chronograph design for pilots comes to mind. Breitling has created a remarkable legacy for itself in this space, but they do create many other watches that are worthy of attention. The Breitling Superocean line is one that deserves more attention than it currently receives. This line of dive watches is very broad and contains options for almost anyone.

The Breitling Superocean Heritage 36, ref. A17377211C1A1, features a 36mm stainless steel case and illustrates the Superocean lines’ versatility beautifully. Available in several different colors at this 36mm case size (as well as the other sizes as well), the turquoise dial option really stands out for me. Accentuated by the cream-colored chapter ring and silver bezel color, the vividness of the turquoise immediately grabs your attention. 

The watch is powered by a derivative of the Sellita SW200-1, which is a pretty big hang-up for some, considering the $5,150 price tag on a stainless steel bracelet. In my opinion, if you are someone who values the look of your watch more than the fact that your movement has a proprietary design, this watch is a great option to consider.

9. Oris Aquis Date Upcycle 36.5mm (ref. 01 733 7770 4150-Set)

When you produce a watch as admired as the Oris Divers Sixty-Five in the entry-level luxury space, it is hard to believe that there is a lineup in their catalog that they are even more known for. That is, of course, the Oris Aquis. Where the Diver’s Sixty-Five plays into the historical charm of the 1960s, the Aquis is the complete opposite, featuring a much more modern aesthetic and integrated bracelet.

The Aquis has been around for several iterations and has been available in several sizes and dial options. My favorite of the bunch is the Oris Aquis Date Upcycle 36.5mm. ref. 01 733 7770 4150. As the name suggests, this version is the more compact 36.5mm case and features a unique dial composed of recycled ocean plastic producing a unique dial for every watch. 

Powered by a Sellita SW200-1 movement and featuring 300M of water resistance, this watch is ready for any task. Coming in at $2500, this version is a little bit of an increase in price over the standard Aquis, but given the unique look, absolutely worth the price.

10. Davosa Ternos Medium 36.5mm (ref. 16619540)

Homage watches are a sensitive subject among enthusiasts. Whether you love or loathe them, you can’t deny that they are great entryways into the world of horology. Not everyone has the budget for a vintage Rolex or even Tudor Submariner, but thanks to Davosa, you can now get the look for a fraction of the price. 

The Davosa Ternos Medium 36.5mm, ref. 16619540, borrows almost all of its design identity from a midsize Tudor Submariner. While some may not be OK with that for the $899 they are asking, others will have no problem.

While the ceramic bezel, sapphire crystal, and Super-LumiNova are all modern features of a watch in current production, the design language of this watch follows most closely that of the 5-digit Submariner line. While I understand that this model may not be for everyone, if you are able to look past the borrowed design, you can get a great watch for a great price. 

11. Glycine Combat Sub 36mm (ref. GL0397)

If you were to ask me a few years ago if I would ever recommend a watch produced by the Invicta group to a group of watch enthusiasts, I would have given myself whiplash from shaking my head side to side so aggressively. 

Although Glycine still operates as an independent watchmaker, they are very much owned by Invicta. Thankfully for us, they are continuing to produce quality Swiss-made watches for affordable prices, even though you may have to look through the Invicta pricing smoke screen.

The Glycine Combat Sub, ref. GL0397, is a 36mm dive watch that takes inspiration from the Submariner design language. They are not as “inspired” as the Davaso mentioned earlier, but the resemblance is there. What makes this watch fun and different is the case treatment Glycine has decided to go with. 

This Glycine Combat Sub features a gold-plated case and bracelet, giving this watch a touch of class or gaudiness, depending on your view of gold watches. The pricing on this watch is all over the map ranging from the MSRP of roughly $1550 (don’t pay that!) down to $598 through some other retailers.

The look is unique, and if you are able to pick this up on the lower end of this range, you’ll get yourself a unique take on a Submariner-inspired watch with 300M of water resistance and a Sellita SW200-1 as well.

12. Armida A11 36mm (ref. 00055)

Armida is a brand that has developed quite a fan following amongst the micro-brand enthusiast community. Their clean and classic designs that borrow just enough from more mainstream watchmakers and robust construction help to separate this brand from the hundreds of others in the price range. 

The Armida A11, ref. 00055, is a great example of this ethos. The 36mm stainless steel case features an ETA 2836-2 movement with day and date complication. The unique placement of this day/date complication at 6 O’clock on the dial helps to give this timepiece a unique look, despite the familiar black dial, black bezel, and Mil-Spec Submariner dial and handset.

This watch comes in at $399 and represents a tremendous value for a watch with a Swiss-made movement, quality construction, and compact size.

13. Alpina Seastrong Diver 36mm (ref. AL-525LNSB3VG6)

After years of relative obscurity compared to their price equivalent competition, Alpina has finally started to break out of their shell and garner more mainstream attention. With several strong product lines to their credit, the Seastrong Diver is one of the favorites among many collectors.

The Alpina Seastrong Diver 36mm, ref. AL-525LNSB3VG6, is a different take on this winning formula. Although marketed as a ladies watch, a common fate for many watches in this size range, this 36mm watch features a polycarbonate and fiberglass case in a black finish that feels quite masculine.

The watch is paired with a bi-color blue nylon strap that complements the blue fume dial. This watch is powered by a Sellita SW200-1 and comes in at a price of $1595. If you are looking for a smaller dive watch that will stand out from the crowd, this Alpina Seastrong is a great option to consider.

14. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 36mm (ref. 2252.50)

I am not one to typically repeat watches from the same watchmaker, let alone product line, but when a brand carries as much weight as Omega I am willing to make an exception. The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, ref. 2252.50, in 36mm, is very similar to the Omega Seamaster we mentioned earlier.

The case, helium escape valve, and scalloped bezel are virtually identical between these two models. Despite the similarities, these watches couldn’t be further apart aesthetically. The blue dial and skeleton hands have been replaced by a black wave dial and standard sword hands, giving this model more of a Mil-Spec vibe than a Hollywood icon.

This seamaster is powered by the caliber 1120 based on the ETA 2892, and the aluminum bezel insert predates the ceramic found in the newer model. The subdued look helps this watch look more natural on the wrist today than its blue counterpart that feels distinctly 90s (not that that is a bad thing). 

These can be had anywhere from $2,000-$3,000, depending on the condition, and there is also a quartz version available with the same design for a little bit cheaper. If you’re looking for a luxury dive watch with some serious Military roots, the Omega Seamaster Diver, ref. 2252.50, is a great option to consider.

15. Vintage 36mm Skindiver

Alright, so I am kind of cheating here, but this style of watch definitely deserves a mention. The 1960s and early 1970s were the perfect cross-section of overproduction and lowered costs of manufacturing. There was no shortage of brands producing watches during this time, and because of this, there are still hundreds of thousands of them floating around in dresser drawers and garage sales, waiting to be discovered. 

Because of the interest in recreational diving and water activities like surfing and snorkeling, many of these watches carried the Skindiver case style, capable of decent water resistance, while costing significantly less than the true dive watches of the day from brands like Omega and Rolex. 

The 36mm case dimension was a favorite amongst brands due to its increased size compared to more casual timepieces of the era. Pricing for these watches varies from a few hundred dollars to a few thousand dollars, depending on the brand and the condition. You may not be able to take these watches with you diving, but they will likely hold the memories of many others who did.

Conclusion

So, there you have it, 15 of the best 36mm dive watches. Whether you just prefer a smaller watch, are a vintage enthusiast at heart, or only have the wrist to support a smaller dive watch there is a great option in this list for you. Thanks to the law of supply and demand, many of these watches can be had for a great price, slightly pre-owned, or straight from the Authorized Dealer with a discount. 

A 36mm dive watch certainly isn’t for everyone, but neither is 44mm or 42mm or even the universally loved 39mm. If you need more validation of the return to midsize dive watches, look no further than Tudor at Watches and Wonders 2023. 

After years of carrying the torch of producing the most well-loved dive watch for smaller wrists with the Black Bay 59 at 39mm, they introduced the Black Bay 54 at an even more compact 37mm dimension with even more bells and whistles. If Tudor released this before revamping their flagship model in the Black Bay 58, there might be more weight behind this return to midsize watches trend than most of us even believed. 

Either way, more choices will always be a win for the enthusiast community as more and more people of different shapes and sizes can find the watch that fits their wrist and style perfectly!

Happy Watch Hunting!

Anyone coming into the watch hobby in the last 30 years likely has a story or anecdote of when they first realized that not all watches require batteries. 

As a millennial growing up in the 1980s and 90s, it made sense that all watches needed something to power them. And with the Swatch, Fossil, and digital Casio watches of the day representing the majority of timepieces I saw, it was clear that this must be the mode of power for all watches. Even the miniature grandfather wall clock in our living room was battery-powered. 

It wasn’t until my late teenage years that I finally learned that some watches, mechanical automatic watches, to be exact, were powered by something else. A mainspring, something wholly physical, without electricity and circuitry, as I had imagined in quartz watches being in all those years before.

What Is an Automatic Watch? 

Automatic watches are a marvel of engineering and craftsmanship. Unlike quartz watches that rely on batteries, automatic watches are powered by the motion of the wearer’s wrist. Inside the watch, there is a weighted rotor that spins as the wrist moves. This motion winds a mainspring that powers the watch’s movement.

The mainspring is connected to a series of gears that regulate the timekeeping of the watch. One of these gears is the escapement, which controls the release of energy from the mainspring. The escapement allows the gears to move in a controlled manner, keeping accurate time.

To ensure the watch stays wound and functioning, automatic watches also have a power reserve. This power reserve is a small amount of energy stored in the mainspring that allows the watch to continue running for a given amount of time, even when not being worn.

Overall, automatic watches are a testament to the ingenuity and precision of traditional mechanical watchmaking. They combine sophisticated mechanics and a sense of timeless design to create a timepiece that is both reliable and aesthetically beautiful.

Brief History of Automatic Movements

It’s believed that the first automatic watch movements were invented as early as the 1770s, with Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Perrelet of Le Locle providing the most credible evidence for a successful design. 

It was around 1776 or 1777 when his self-winding mechanism for pocket watches utilized an oscillating weight inside the watch, moving up and down to power it. That was also when another Abraham, Abraham-Louis Breguet, to be exact, became interested in automatic movements. 

Breguet’s first few attempts at a self-winding mechanism with a barrel remontoir proved successful. However, the manufacture was too expensive and complex to be sold en masse. It was then in 1779 when Breguet learned of Perrelet’s watches. He poured over the designs and, through his studies, improved upon them, producing many self-winding watches well into 1810. 

And yet, despite the advancements and patents filed up to this point, in the nearly one hundred years following Breguet’s work, automatic watches continued to be rare until the introduction of the wristwatch in the 20th century. 

After World War I, wristwatches became popular for their proven practicality and convenience on the battlefield. This led to a renewed interest in self-winding mechanisms, and various types (side-weight, center-weight, unidirectional winding rotor system) were soon applied in wristwatch form. 

Perhaps most well known today is Rolex’s “perpetual” self-winding rotor movement, first introduced in 1931, featuring a semi-circular shaped oscillating weight able to rotate 360 degrees freely in both directions, enabling their watches of the day to run up to 35 hours on a full charge (~70 hours is becoming the new industry standard). 

Automatic vs Manual Wind movements 

When considering mechanical watch options, it’s important to note that automatic and manual watches have particular pros and cons. 

Automatic watches, especially those from the 20th century onward, were developed with modern convenience and technical advances in mind. No longer needing to wind your watch meant less time needing to spend setting it if it died overnight, fewer chances of forgetting to screw down or push in the crown leading to water or moisture ingress, and less overall wearing down of the crown threads, which would lead to maintenance and repair costs down the road. 

But, with these modern conveniences, it can also be argued that automatic watches lose a certain romanticism found with traditional manually wound watches. The ritualistic winding of your watch daily in meditation, the beauty and comfort of thinner cases (after all, a winding rotor adds additional thickness), and the often accompanied display casebacks allowing you to view the movement in full without obstruction from a winding rotor. 

All of these attributes in manual watches lead to a more purist collector’s approach to watchmaking, and you’ll mostly find that the dressier traditional pieces will feature a manual movement. In contrast, the automatic watches in the market tend to be sports-centered, rugged, everyday pieces capable of taking a beating.

Automatic vs Quartz Movements

On the topic of quartz, we should also consider the benefits of automatic timepieces. If we’re to accept that manual watches have a certain romanticism tied to their mechanical “purity”, we can also apply this to automatic watches when positioning them against their quartz competitors. 

Automatic watches being self-powered continue the tradition of mechanical horology, which was nearly wiped out in the 1970s and 80s during the Quartz Crisis. For this reason, along with the overabundance of cheaply made and widely available quartz watches in today’s market, quartz often gets a bad name in watch collecting circles.

Yet, there are brands at the luxury and haute horology end of the spectrum creating their own quartz watches at the highest levels: Grand Seiko, and even independent darling, F.P. Journe, come to mind. 

What can luxury quartz watches provide? Reliability, hyper-accurate timing (+/- 10 seconds a year, in some calibers), less servicing, and lower long-term costs due to fewer mechanical parts. On the flip side, automatic watches will be more prone to servicing, much less accurate (-4 to +6 seconds per day being COSC standard), and more susceptible to impact, wear and tear.

What to Look For in Automatic Watches Under $1000?

So, you’ve decided to go automatic. What are some considerations to make in the sub-$1000 watch category?

Brand

There are many watch brands that occupy the sub-$1000 price category. The most popular with the widest variety and range of styles are Seiko, Hamilton, Citizen, and Tissot, to name a few. Additionally, in the microbrand category, brands like Unimatic or Halios are independently run and often combine watch movements from outside manufacturers.   

Category

Perhaps the most important is to understand your use case. Do you require an everyday watch capable of the rigors of daily activity? Perhaps something dressier for formal occasions? Or do you need something more specific, like a dive watch to serve as backup on your next dive trip? Or maybe a field watch to help you on your next hike? 

Most of the watches we’ll discuss fall under these categories, with dive and field watches being the most popular for their rugged reliability and practicality, as well as dress watch options for those inclined. 

Movement and Power Reserve

Choosing an automatic watch is a conscious commitment to mechanical horology. While you don’t need to be a dictionary on every single watch movement, manufacturer, and jewel count, exposing oneself to automatic watches in the sub-$1000 range can be very beneficial. It opens up the ability to better understand the common calibers and their respective power reserves and qualities often used by various brands in the range. 
For example, the Seiko caliber 6R35, with its 70-hour power reserve (NH35 equivalent), is widely used across many watch styles and brands in this price bracket. Getting used to the terminology is a great way to foster an appreciation and deepen knowledge of the hobby.

Let’s explore. 

The Best Automatic Watches Under $1000

1. Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium

Tissot operates within the Swatch Group’s expansive portfolio of brands, representing the sub $1,000 price point among its brethren brands like Omega, Blancpain, and Breguet. Despite occupying a relatively more affordable price point, Tissot punches well above its weight, offering products that beat out competitors nearly twice the price in form, finishing, and function. 

The Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium is a perfect example of this. On paper and on the wrist, the Gentleman is a fairly straightforward watch toeing the line between sports and dress, with a 40mm diameter case, 48mm lug-to-lug, and 11.5mm thickness with inoffensive indices, hands, and dial text design.

But, where the Gentleman really shines is with its movement – the Powermatic 80 caliber with an 80-hour power reserve and silicon hairspring for better timekeeping and anti-magnetism. Both factors are incredible for a watch that retails at just under $800 and is feature sets more widely applied in timepieces multiples of this price.  

Retail Price: $795.00  

2. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80

A 300m diver with dashing good looks, the Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 is another great value proposition from the Tissot brand for those looking for something sportier and water-resistant. 

Measuring 43mm in diameter, 49.6mm lug-to-lug, and 13.3mm thick, the Seastar is not a small watch by any means but should fit well, filling the slot as your modern diver. 

And with its gradient blue dial, ceramic bezel (rarely seen on dive watches under $1000 until recent years), and 6 o’clock date window (so as not to upset dial symmetry), it’s truly a looker. 

Powering the watch is the Swatch Group’s ETA Powermatic 80 movement. While the Seastar doesn’t have a silicon hairspring or COSC certification, the 23-jewel automatic movement will still push 80 hours of power reserve – a useful feat when putting the watch down for a few days and picking it back up without needing to recharge it. 

Just keep in mind the 21mm lug width, which might be a minor nuisance if you plan to wear it on aftermarket straps.

Retail Price: $725.00

3. Tissot PRX Powermatic 80

A smash hit ever since its debut, the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 is a darling of the watch community for a good reason: handsome integrated steel bracelet styled looks, a solid mechanical movement, wide availability, and a number of attractive classic dial colors to boot. 

The PRX came into the market just as the steel sports integrated bracelet craze started to hit, and even as other brands continue to put their best offerings into the fray, none have yet captured the charm of the PRX. 

Looks aside, the Powermatic 80 housed inside the PRX is again a star. With an anti-magnetic Nivachron hairspring holding an 80-hour power reserve in a single barrel, the wearer is also treated to a sapphire display caseback offering a view of the movement and rotor. 

Measuring nearly 40mm in diameter, 10.9mm thick, and 51mm lug-to-lug (from the actual bracelet point where the lug holes are found), the PRX should fit most wrists pleasurably.

Retail Price: $675.00

4. Seiko SRPE03 “Turtle”

The Seiko SRPE03 “Turtle” is a timepiece that blends rugged style with functionality. The overall design of the watch is a nod to Seiko’s rich history of producing dive watches, in particular, the 6309 originally launched in the 1970s into the 1980s. 

Though previous iterations of the “Turtle” exist in the SRP777 line and its color variations, the SRPE03 serves as a bit of an upgrade featuring a sapphire crystal with date/day magnifier, anti-reflective coating, and a stainless steel bezel with ceramic insert, the latter a feature not commonly seen in watches within the price point. 

Overall, despite the 45mm diameter case size (13.4mm thick with 47mm lug-to-lug), the watch wears well on a variety of wrist sizes due to the age-old “Seiko magic” of making big watches that wear small, in part due to the cushion case and relatively short lug-to-lug distance. With the added upgrades in the bold Turtle style, the SRPE03 is a great choice as a go-to diver in any watch collection.

Retail Price: $625.00

5. Seiko SPB117 “Alpinist”

The original watch launched in 1959, named the “Alpinist”, was, in fact, Seiko’s first true sports watch. In an era when mountaineering was taking hold for the general public, “yama-otoko” (Japanese mountaineers) required a watch that could handle the rigors of the outdoors. Water and shock resistance were of the utmost importance for a watch to handle the task. 

Today, the Alpinist has evolved but still holds true to those original principles of shock and water resistance. Now featuring an internal rotating compass ring, date with magnifier window (sapphire crystal), and the 6R35 movement featuring 70 hours of power reserve, the modern Alpinist is simply handsome in execution. 

And at 39.5mm in diameter, 13.2mm thick, and 46.4mm lug-to-lug, it’s also wearable in that Goldilocks zone of measurements for a majority of wrist sizes. And did we mention that water resistance? 200m for a non-dive watch is surely overkill, but we’ll take it.

Retail Price: $750.00 

6. Seiko SPB101 “Sumo”

A fan favorite ever since its launch in 2007, the Seiko “Sumo” is one of those Seiko divers that just about any Seiko dive watch fan would and should try out at any point in their watch collecting journey. 

Newly updated in the SPB101 (and its various color variants), the current generation of Sumo watches has a few new features sure to please the fans: a sapphire crystal which replaces the proprietary “Hardlex” of yesteryear, and the 6R35 movement with its 70-hour power reserve and 3Hz beat rate.

And though a ceramic bezel is not available in this line, for a few hundred dollars more, look to the “King Sumo” line (ex: reference SPB323) if ceramic is a must on your dive watch checklist. 

Where the Sumo shines is in its case shape and finishing for the price; lyre-style twisted lugs on its 45mm diameter and 12.6mm thick case help the watch wear smaller, though 52.6mm lug-to-lug may prove a challenge to smaller wrists if not worn on a strap.

Retail Price: $850.00

7. Seiko SPB143

Is there any current production Seiko dive watch more popular or celebrated in the watch collector fandom than the SPB143? No need to answer that; the SPB143 really is that good, and for a good reason. 

Following the trend of vintage aesthetics in modern-day build and sizing, the SPB143 is a modern reinterpretation of the legendary 62MAS, Seiko’s original skin diver launched in 1965. What it gets right is the sizing, detail, and level of finishing at such a great price, culminating in a perfect package for anyone looking to jump up to the next level in Seiko’s dive watch range. 

The case is 40.5mm in diameter, 13.2mm thick, and 46.5mm lug-to-lug, ensuring a fit comfortable for most wrists. And if you’ve experienced Seiko divers before, this one will feel altogether familiar and just right on the wrist; a more refined and compact Seiko SKX, if you will. Finished off with a 6R35 movement (70-hour power reserve) and sapphire crystal (that’s right; no Hardlex here), and you’ve got a tidy and handsome package of Seiko diver goodness.

Retail Price: $1,200.00

8. Seiko SPB077

Following the successful launch of modern reinterpretations of their famous dive watches of yesteryear (Such as the SRP777 “Turtle” two years prior), Seiko released the SPB077 in 2018 as a new interpretation of the 6159-7000 Professional diver, arguably Seiko’s most iconic watch design with its bold monocoque front loader case, 4:00 screw down crown, and Hi-Beat movement (I admit, I’m biased). 

The new diver features modern watchmaking tech such as a  proprietary super hard case “Diashield” coating, a sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective coating, and a streamlined case design (44mm diameter, 13.1mm thickness, 50mm lug-to-lug).

However, it lacks the monocoque case (screw down caseback here) and hi-beat movement for a dressier, “daily diver” look. With its focus on looks, the SPB077 is as handsome in the office or the ocean depths and is a strong contender for your one contemporary dive watch in a collection.

Retail Price: $1,050.00 

9. Seiko SRPB43 “Cocktail Time”

It’s often posited that Seiko “makes great dials”. In a modern context where watch enthusiasts are blessed to have such a wide breadth of choices from the brand, with dials of all sorts of textures, colors, materials, and patterns, it’s no wonder that “great” Seiko dials have become a given in the watch collecting community. 

In truth, Seiko has had a focus on strong dial design from the start (the linen dials of the King and Grand Seiko watches of the 1960s and 70s are a personal favorite). But it was with the launch of the “Cocktail Time” range of watches in recent years that this started to re-enter the public consciousness. 

The SRPB43 “Cool” dial was launched in 2017 as a new series within the line, once again inspired by various cocktails taking color and shape within their respective dial designs. 

Measuring 40.5mm in diameter, 11.9mm thick, with a 47.5mm lug-to-lug, it wears a bit larger than a traditional dress watch, though the fantastic design and radiating dial can certainly be pulled off as one, particularly when paired with the stock strap. At the least, the watch is an eye-catching conversation starter at any formal dinner party.

Retail Price: $425.00 

10. Seiko SRPG03

Though Seiko is widely known for its robust and capable divers, as well as its variety of eye-catching dress watches with spectacular and beautiful dials, the SRPG03 is a bit of an anomaly in that it occupies both worlds. And it should really be more popular. 

Evoking the skin diver style watches of the 1960s, the SRPG03 is a “sporty” dress watch that combines an H-style case and (non-rotatable) bezel ala dive watch style, with unexpected Presage range dial finishing and design. Perhaps it’s this mix that confuses prospective buyers, who aren’t sure what the watch aims to be. 

But for those focusing on looks and aesthetic beauty, the 41mm diameter case (12.5mm thick and 48mm lug-to-lug) and sunburst dial with gold-colored indices is a revelation, unmatched by watches priced at nearly double the amount. Keeping in mind the 50m water resistance rating, it will still handle the occasional dip in the pool but will work best in the office when impressing others with your style.

Retail Price: $525.00

11. Seiko SPB165

You may be familiar with Seiko’s “Grammar of Design”, attributed to Taro Tanaka and his angular diamond-like cases, created as a distillation of Japanese aesthetic beauty in watch design (look no further than the Grand Seiko 44GS, for example).

And while the fundamental “grammar” has proliferated throughout Seiko watches in the decades since, perhaps no greater example in the Presage range of watches can be found than in the “Sharp Edged” series SPB165. 

The sharp, 44GS-like angles are all there, coupled with various polished and brushed surfaces strategically placed to accentuate light and shadow play to the user. The super hard coating ensures protection against scratches, and the elegant design is stressed further with temperate case sizing: 39.3mm in diameter, 11.1mm thick (or thin, if we’re being honest), and 47.2mm lug-to-lug.

100m of water resistance is a bonus, making the SPB165 a perfect daily modern sports watch with the all-familiar stylings of Seiko’s past. 

Retail Price: $1,000.00

12. Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200M (“Challenge Diver” aka “Fujitsubo”)

No stranger to the sub-$1000 price range, the Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200M is yet another solid titanium dive watch offering from the Japanese brand. Though mostly known for their quartz-powered Eco-Drive watches, the in-house calibre 9051 powering the Promaster is anti-magnetic to 200 Gauss, running at a frequency of 4Hz and 42 hours of power reserve.

However, it could use a bit more dialing in on precision, given its deviation rating of -10 to +20 seconds a day. Measuring 41mm in diameter, 12.3mm thick, and 48.5mm lug-to-lug, the Promaster is a modern dive watch in size, despite harkening back to the original “Challenge Diver” of 1977 in design.

In fact, it’s a very near recreation of the infamous diver from the 70s for those looking for a more vintage-inspired look and is a great alternative for those wanting to step away from the usual Seiko dive watch suspects in the price range. 

Retail Price: $795.00

13. Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic (AL-525NW4S26)

In the realm of pilot watches around the $1,000 price point, Alpina has released many models within the Startimer Pilot range. Among the collection, the Pilot Automatic Petroleum Blue 41 is particularly attractive.

Measuring 41mm in diameter, 11.5mm thick, and water resistant up to 100m, the “Petroleum” matte blue of the dial is contrasted nicely with white Arabic numerals and indices with luminous treatment for visibility in the dark. 

The hands are hand-polished silver in color and also lumed for increased visibility. The watch’s looks, bezeled design, and finishing are particular highpoints, along with its convex sapphire crystal treated with anti-reflection coating.

The AL-525 caliber automatic movement features a 38-hour power reserve and is available on a brown calf leather strap with off-white stitching to help pull in the white indices and numerals on the dial.

Retail Price: $1,195.00

14. Laco Pilot Augsburg 42

Produced in Germany, Laco was founded in 1925 and continues to manufacture a range of classic Flieger-style watches and contemporary designs today. Of the former, the Laco Pilot Augsburg 42 is perhaps the best deal in Flieger-style watches available on the market. 

The stark black dial with numerals and hands filled with luminescent Superluminova C3 are unmistakable, coupled with a brown calf leather strap and rivets, a look particularly evoking the mid-20th century design the Augsburg 42 aims to reproduce. 

At 42mm in diameter, 11.75mm thick, and 50mm lug-to-lug, the Augsburg 42 is great for a pilot watch, offering high levels of visibility across its open dial. Powered by the well-known and proven workhorse Miyota 821A movement, the watch allows for both manual and automatic winding, the former through the use of its relatively large crown, remaining faithful to the styles of yesteryear.

Retail Price: $410.00

15. Marathon 36mm Arctic MSAR Automatic (WW194026-WD)

Launched in 2020, the “Arctic” white dial variation of the 36mm Marathon MSAR (short for “Medium Search And Rescue”) has become a cult-classic offering among true tool watch enthusiasts. Indeed, the Canada-based brand has continued to produce watches for various military forces worldwide since its founding in 1939 and is proven effective day in and day out by those putting them to hard use in the field. 

The Arctic MSAR is a bit quirky and probably not for everyone. It’s small and chunky, with a 36mm diameter case, 14mm thickness, and 43mm lug-to-lug, but that quirkiness is definitely part of the charm. It’s a watch that wears rather comfortably despite the odd sizing, and with the Arctic’s white dial contrasted with black numerals and outlined hands, it’s highly visible for such a small dial. Throw in the tritium gas tubes for added legibility in the dark, and the MSAR takes the cake on rugged reliability and altogether charm.

Retail Price: $1,100.00 (on strap)

16. Orient Kamasu

As Seiko dive watches continue an upwards march in price and specifications, Orient Watch (a subsidiary of Seiko Epson) continues to fill in the void left by the brand. When the cult classic diving watch, the Seiko SKX, was finally discontinued, the Orient Kamasu revealed itself to be a classically styled alternative for those looking for another capable yet affordable Japanese diver. 

At 41.8mm in diameter, 12.8mm thick, and 46.8mm lug-to-lug, and offered in a range of attractive colors (red, blue, black, green), the Kamasu is an agreeable size for most wrists, with punchy dive watch styling inspired by the fearsome barracuda with teeth-like markers and hands. The sapphire crystal is particularly of note in the price range, and the 40-hour power reserve caliber F6922 is known to be accurate and reliable. 

Retail Price: $550.00 

17. Doxa Sub 200

For a company that co-developed the helium escape valve with Rolex in the 1960s and was worn and retailed by Jacques-Yves Cousteau himself, it can be said that Doxa received the short end of the dive watch history stick for being a bit more under the radar and lesser known than the influential dive watch companies of the day. The classic cushion case Sub 300 and Sub 300T lines were eventually revived and built upon in the early 2000s. 

The brand, undergoing a change in leadership more recently, has entered a bit of a renaissance in popularity for its iconic designs and colorful dials across its range of dive watches. As an entry-level option, the Sub 200 (measuring 42mm in diameter, 15mm thick, and 45mm lug-to-lug) is a great introduction to the brand, with its combination of lyre lug case shape, beads of rice bracelet and full diving chops (rated to 200m water resistance). A no-brainer for a watch oozing vintage style. The only question is, which color?

Retail Price: $990.00

18. Unimatic U1 Classic

Founded by two industrial designers in 2015, Milan-based Unimatic produces minimalist sport watches capturing the essence of aesthetic design, functionality, and affordability. The U1 “Classic” is just that. 

Reduced to a spartan black bezel and plain dial decorated only with luminescent markers and hands, with the UNIMATIC branding and “CLASSIC” badge following suit, this watch can be considered the “Chuck Taylor” shoes of the watch world; it goes with everything. 

And while the clean design is a focus, the workhorse Seiko NH-35 movement powering it inside and 300m of water resistance proves the U1 Classic to be a powerhouse workhorse in its own right, ready to be put through the paces of daily wear and more. Measuring 41.5mm in diameter (with bezel), 49mm lug-to-lug, and 13.6mm thick, and sold on a nylon strap, if you’re looking for a clean and capable watch, look no further than the U1 Classic.

Retail Price: $550.00

19. Certina DS PH200M

A historically fan-favorite design of Certina, the DS PH200M dive watch was most recently updated in 2020 to include a sapphire crystal and a black or blue dial with gilt accents. Based on the original 1968 DS PH200M, one of the first Certina dive watches, the watch is most characterized by its charming broad bezel (ceramic upon the recent update) with a fully graduated bezel insert and clean cross-hair dial design. 

At 42.8mm in diameter, 11.9mm thick, and 51mm lug-to-lug, the watch isn’t modest but is certainly fitting for a dive watch on a modern scale and should fit nicely on most wrists when paired with a NATO-style strap. Completed with the Caliber ETA Powermatic 80.611, the 80 hours of power reserve is yet again a Swatch Group bonus movement for the price range.

Retail Price: $980.00

20. Timex M79

Looking for a larger, beefier, mechanical version of the infamous Timex Q? Look no further than the Timex M79, similarly based on the 1970s aesthetics made famous in recent years with the quartz Q. 

Measuring 40mm in diameter and 14.4m thick, with 46mm lug-to-lug measurement, the bolder case size of the M79 helps accentuate the sharp angles and impressive case finishing for a watch within the affordable price point. 

With a unidirectional wide bezel, and date and day function, the M79 is powered by an automatic Miyota caliber featuring 42 hours of power reserve, quickset day/date, and a 21,600bph frequency.  

Retail Price: $289.00

21. Orient Bambino 38mm (RA-AC0M04Y)

A long-time go-to contemporary classic dress model in the watch world for many just entering the hobby, the Orient Bambino was recently re-introduced in a more compact 38mm size. To be exact, the watch measures 38.4mm in diameter, 12.5mm thick, and 44mm lug-to-lug compared to its larger 40.5mm variant in past years. 

Powered by the in-house automatic Orient Calibre F6724, a new generation movement now featuring hacking seconds and hand-winding (along with automatic winding via the rotor), the 38mm Bambino is striking and now better suited for a variety of wrists in its smaller size. Of note is the domed mineral glass, accentuating the champagne dial and ageless looks. 

Retail Price: $410.00

22. Stowa Marine Classic 36 (Arabic or Roman)

Stowa is a watch manufacturer more commonly associated with Flieger-style pilot watches. Yet within the Marine Classic range, Stowa creates some of the best modern takes on classic Marine chronometer watches with varying levels of customization (ex: movement, dial type, with or without date). 

Think clean white dials, time-only functionality, and temperature-blued steel hands in a classic case shape worn on leather straps. When selecting an automatic Sellita caliber SW200, you’re getting a ton of value and charm in timeless, classic style (36mm diameter, 10.2mm height, 44.6mm lug-to-lug).

Retail Price: 980.00 EUR

23. Hamilton Jazzmaster Auto (H32475640)

The Jazzmaster line within Hamilton’s range of watches has long been known for its contemporary and modern style, coupled with the refined construction and finishing of the brand at affordable prices. 

In the Jazzmaster Auto (reference H32475640), we have an attractive blue dial daily dress watch in 40mm diameter and 11.05mm thickness, with a blue sun-brushed dial and silver diamond shape markers, silver minutes track on the outer dial, and dauphine style hands. The blue datewheel with white text is a nice touch speaking to the level of detail applied by the brand when most others would likely opt for a white datewheel for manufacturing efficiency. 

Retail Price: $895.00

24. Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 38 (H70455133)

The Khaki Field range of watches from Hamilton is synonymous with field watches at this point. And for a good reason. Built with practicality in mind, the Khaki Field Automatic represents a classic field watch style with a seconds track, hour, and 24-hour marker dial, all housed within a 38mm case (11mm thickness, 47mm lug-to-lug). 

Upgraded with an automatic H-10 movement (modified ETA C07.111 with 80-hour power reserve) and steel bracelet, the watch is also rated to 100m water resistance, proving its field watch style is ready and capable for any adventure thrown at it.

Retail Price: $725.00

25. Unimatic Modello Due U2S-T-MP In Titanium (U2S-T-MP)

A slim, lightweight titanium field watch with 300m water resistance and iconic Unimatic styling? Say no more! A modern take on the field watch, Unimatic uses sandblasted grade II titanium to achieve a 45% lighter case, measuring 38.5mm in diameter, 11.9mm thick, and 47.5mm lug-to-lug. 

Powered by the proven workhorse Swiss movement, Sellita SW200-1, the blue dial coupled with white hands and markers (filled with BGW09 Super-Luminova) take the Modello Due to a new level of playfulness (and comfort) when compared with the relatively stark gray and black color models of past releases. 

Retail Price: $900.00

26. Timex Marlin Marlin Sub Dial Automatic 39mm (ref. TW2V61900)

This new entry to the Timex Marlin line adds a new splash of color that breathes a fresh sense of life into the piece. It updates the classic 1960s Marlin with pops of electric blue and a nice red highlight to compliment the sleek design. The stainless steel case is 39mm in diameter and features a curved cushion shape that sits comfortably on the wrist. 

The Japanese movement is shown through an exhibition case back with the iconic Marlin logo etched into the back. The dial and date feature stays true to many Marlin automatics with the 24-hour format sub-dial at the 9 o’clock. The dial’s color is a stark white with bold black numerals giving the watch an extremely simple but effective aesthetic.

The Timex Marlin Sub is $279.00

Conclusion

Automatic watches are the heart and soul of modern watchmaking. Continuing on the mechanical tradition of horology in the face of technological advances such as quartz and the smartwatches of today, purchasing an automatic watch is a conscious decision to keep that sense of watchmaking alive in a time when planned obsolescence and the digitization of everything surrounds us. 

No matter which automatic watch you choose, be proud of your decision and take comfort in knowing that your watch can be maintained, will live on, and can be passed down to future generations after you. So, which watch do you choose?

Glowing lights in dark places have often sparked a childlike fascination in humans. Think of bioluminescent insects like fireflies, glowworms, etc, and the naive thrill that emanates from watching these enchanting marvels immediately comes to mind.

It’s the same for watches. You don’t have to be a watch enthusiast for the luminescent material that glows through a watch’s dial in the dark to kindle a childlike sense of delight.

Lume is the term given to the luminescent material or glowing solution applied on watch dials to keep them legible in the dark. The first instances of watch luminescence surfaced during the first World War when soldiers desired to tell the time without using a flashlight. 

In response, watchmakers began applying self-luminous paint on watch dials. These luminous watches turned out to be a critical tool, enabling soldiers to tell the time in the dark during battles. Despite being a historic advancement in the watch world, the luminous materials were radium-based.

Repeated exposure to the radioactive substance proved fatal, leading to a drastic reduction in its use and a subsequent ban in 1968. Since then, lume has evolved. From the story about how luminous timepieces saved lives in hellish trenches to the best lume watches trending right now, read on!

Short Guide

What Is A Watch Lume?

Lume is a shortened form of the word luminescence. So when we talk of ‘lume’ watches, we mean watches with properties enabling them to emit light rays visible in the dark. 

A luminous phosphorescent solution is generally applied to the hands, dials, hour markers, and sometimes the bezels of a watch. Usually, in a green or blue hue, the glowing solution absorbs light and re-emits it. Though this normally occurs during production, it is possible to “relume” a watch’s dial. 

Reluming means removing the old luminous material from the dial, hands, and hour markers, and applying new luminous material to it. It is important to relume a watch if it is a vintage timepiece and has a dial containing radium lume (which is radioactive). 

The duration of the lume effect varies according to the type of luminous solution (more on this later) and the amount applied to the watch. Whether single or multiple layers are used to ensure a long-lasting glow depends on the cost of the watch and the brand.

Which Watch Brand Has The Best Lume?

Different watch brands use their proprietary blend of luminous material (often strontium aluminate), and the brightness produced at the end depends on the chemistry of the luminous materials. Many watch enthusiasts argue that Omega, Seiko, and Panerai are the lume kings. Super-LumiNova is what Omega uses and is a blend of strontium aluminate.

It also is one of the brightest and longest glowing lume with exceptional legibility. Seiko uses its proprietary LumiBrite, an impressive luminescence variant found in all its diver watches ranging from affordable models to ones reaching thousands of dollars. Even though LumiBrite is relatively new in Seiko luminous dial painting, the glowing solution is impressively bright, longer-lasting, and free of radioactive substances.

About Lume In a Watch

A timepiece is generally as useful as its capacity to tell time. That said, most watches invented before luminescence was applied to watch dials had limitations. Though exquisite and finely crafted, they were, at best, ‘part-time’ watches.

With no smartphones or streetlights, time reading at night meant holding your timepiece to candlelight. This soon became a major problem, leading to the invention of the minute repeater complication. Timepieces that featured this complication came with an independent chiming machinery that could strike distinct sounds for minutes, quarter hours, and hours with the aid of two small hammers.

Unfortunately, it was only for rich folks, and the problem continued until people got innovative, leading to the invention of lume. Applied mostly for the legibility benefits it offers, watch lume has proved immensely beneficial for telling time in less-than-ideal lighting conditions.

Luminous hour markers and hands were first applied to wristwatches when World War 1 was raging, and since that time, most tool watches have continued to use a healthy dose of lume.

Inherently a byproduct of warfare, lume was conceived solely for utility. As a matter of fact, among the British troops, a luminous wristwatch with unbreakable glass was part of the soldier’s kit.

Some contemporary watch enthusiasts may consider lume as nothing more than a cool detail that enhances the aesthetics of a watch. However, it does more than improve the visual complexity of any timepiece. It provides legibility in low light conditions, which remains extremely useful for camping and diving. 

Tales of Lume Watches: Where it all Began

Luminescent materials have been used in watchmaking for over a century. The history of watch luminescence goes way back to 1898 with the discovery of Radium by Marie and Pierre Curie. Already known for its self-luminous properties, watchmakers began applying radium paint on the dials and hands of watches to make them legible in the dark.

The first instances of this application surfaced around World War I when soldiers deserted their pocket watches and began depending on wristwatches because of the ease of telling time promptly. However, they couldn’t read their timepieces in the dark, and using a flashlight on the combat front meant giving away their location, hence the necessity of watch luminescence. 

The revolutionary lume technology was groundbreaking then, leading to global demand for wristwatches with it. Radium, which produced a bright glow when combined with zinc sulfide, was applied to the hands and indices to provide luminescence with a precision brush.

The brushes are pointed with the tongue before the application of the solution by the employees (primarily young women) to shape the bristles and achieve a fine line. Unfortunately, radium proved to be radioactive (yup, radioactive!), and several of these women developed severe medical complications as a result of the radiation exposure (the “Radium Girls” story comes in here).

Of course, it was time for a new type of luminous material. So watchmakers quickly replaced radium paint with tritium-based luminous material in the 1970s. Undeterred by its weak radioactivity, Tritium was used up to the 1990s. It was in the mid-90s that Kenzo Nemoto, a Japanese entrepreneur, developed a safe and non-radioactive phosphorescent solution.

The strontium aluminate-based photoluminescent material gradually took the place of tritium. However, it only partially replaced it. References to tritium today in watchmaking are often about tritium gas tubes. These tubes are thin cylindrical glasses filled with gaseous tritium to ensure a luminescent glow.

Recent luminous materials are based on photoluminescent solutions (like strontium aluminate). These non-toxic materials are used as lume and work by absorbing and re-emitting light. Examples are Super-LumiNova, Chromalight (Rolex), and LumiBrite (Seiko). They usually come in green or blue hues.

What to Look for When Shopping for Watches With the Best Lume

Luminosity

A perfectly lumed watch should glow homogeneously with no obscurity or shades of luminescence in the dial. The hands, indices, etc, should shine brightly for a long time. Some watch brands have mentioned that if the lume is exposed for up to ten minutes to the light of more than 520 lux, it will glow for somewhere between 30 minutes to three hours.

Lume Material

There happens to be an array of luminous materials used by different watch brands to keep watches legible in low-light conditions. Many brands even use patented photoluminescent formulas.

For instance, Rolex’s Chromalight has a signature blue sheen and lasts up to eight hours when fully charged, while Seiko’s Lumibrite can last for over nine hours. It’s important to note the lume material used for a watch before buying it if you’re particular about this feature.

Duration

The duration of the lume is just how long it will glow in dark conditions. It is clear that tritium was the strongest lume and lasted for several hours, but it’s now gone for all the right reasons. The lume of any timepiece is useless if the glowing effect endures only for a few minutes.

Factors that affect the duration of luminescence range from exposure to a strong light to the amount of lume applied and the type of luminous material used.

Looks

There is an assortment of preferences when it comes to the luminous coating in watches. The appreciation of lume does not end at its functional purpose but stretches to its looks as well. You would think that lume is one size fits all, but the range is quite varied, with the green and blue lume being the most common. 

C3 Super-LumiNova has the brightest strength and gives off a green (sometimes yellow) color. BGW9 follows closely and is light blue in the dark but somewhat whiter during the day. There are many other colors you can choose from but expect a reduced amount of brilliance.

Watches With Tritium Lume

1. Marathon General Purpose Mechanical

Starting this list is none other than Marathon’s General Purpose Mechanical (GPM) – 34mm watch. Loved for Its military-issued timepieces, Marathon is renowned for combining Swiss engineering and expertise with military robustness.

Tritium radiance is a pivotal element across the brand’s collections, and if you really want a functional watch with outstanding tritium lume, Marathon is highly recommended.

Made in Switzerland and created to meet tough MIL-W-46374 specification standards, the GPM (General Purpose Mechanical) watch was designed with the highest level of craftsmanship and quality.

The high-impact composite fiber shell case measures 34mm and will stay tightly fitted to a range of wrists, thanks to its 16mm nylon strap that coordinates with the color of the case. Born out of military necessity, the dial is everything you’d expect from a function-first tool watch. 

The Lume used on the indices and hands is none other than tritium gas tubes which will continue to glow without exposure to light. Unlike other contemporary luminous materials, tritium is also known to offer consistent brightness for prolonged periods. 

The dial is thus guaranteed to offer impeccable legibility in all lighting conditions, especially when you include spectacular white hands projecting from a matte black dial.

Beating inside the heart of the watch at a rate of 21,600bph is Seiko’s NH35, a reliable automatic movement with 24 jewels. The dial of the GPM is guarded by extremely strong and scratch-resistant Sapphire crystal. 

2. Ball Roadmaster StarLight Bronze Watch (42mm RR1102-C)

Ball Watch is a Swiss luxury company known for its quality timepieces that work incredibly well in adverse conditions. Apart from churning out elegant watches, Ball is one of the major brands that employ the use of encapsulated tritium hour markers on its timepieces to enhance legibility.

In terms of design, the watch brand stands out for creating timeless watches that feature a modern yet classic look. Coming in a bronze case that measures 42mm, the corrosion-resistant Ball Roadmaster Starlight Bronze Watch demonstrates a strong emphasis on functionality.

Since the clear and swift reading of the dial has always been a top consideration for every BALL watch, the numerals and hands feature the brand’s signature tritium gas tubes. The luminous properties of these tritium tubes can glow perpetually for up to 25 years without requiring charging from an external light source.

Due to the glass tubes used here, the numerals have turned out to look a bit digital, giving the watch a distinct look that offsets the vintage idea. Apart from the copious luminescence, the dive watch is water resistant to a depth of 200 meters and is COSC chronometer-certified.

For those unfamiliar with the term, COSC stands for Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres. Every timepiece certified as a chronometer by the COSC must have undergone a series of rigorous tests. The bronze watch is equipped with the automatic ETA 2836-2, which provides 38 hours of power reserve. 

3. Luminox Leatherback Sea Turtle Giant, 44MM – 0337

Luminox is a luxury watch brand notable for its value-driven timepieces that were rugged enough to be the number one choice for U.S. Navy SEALs in the early 1990s.

The California-based watchmaker has made Its mark in the watch world thanks to its readable, robust, and high-quality tactical watches. The Swiss-made timepieces are known for providing long-term luminescence with the use of GTLS (Gaseous Tritium Light Source). 

The Leather Sea Turtle Giant features a case back that mimics a turtle’s curved shell earning it the turtle nickname. The dial features the proven GTLS Luminox technology that guarantees self-powered readability in low-light conditions with a constant glow for up to 25 years. GTLS tubes are incorporated into all the hour markers. 

Additional tritium inserts adorn the hands of the watch, offering a 24hr illumination. The Cabonox case is extremely lightweight, weighing only 45 grams on its webbing NATO strap. Coming from Luminox, the watch is flawlessly styled with orange accents that contrast with the green dial producing an overall legible effect.

With a diameter of 44mm and a lug width of 22mm, the sports watch will sit snugly on various wrists. Inside, an affordable and highly accurate Swiss Quartz movement powers the watch. Apart from requiring little or no manual maintenance, quartz movements are known for their longevity, as they can last the user up to 30 years. Finally, this affordable timepiece has a screw-down case back that ensures 100 meters of water resistance.

Watches With Super-LumiNova

Super-LumiNova happens to be the go-to luminous material of many reputable watchmakers. It is a Swiss-made lighting product with no radioactive properties (unlike radium and tritium). As a result, it is 100% safe for the end user and the manufacturer. It is based on alkaline earth aluminate and works by absorbing natural and artificial ultraviolet light during exposure, which illuminates in lowlight conditions.

4. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Ref. 220.10.41.21.10.001

Starting this part of the list is none other than Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra for all the right reasons. In 1997, Omega announced that all its watches would no longer use tritium. In replacement, a blend of strontium aluminate or Super Luminova was to be used.

Since then, Omega has stayed as one of the watch brands with the brightest and longest glowing lume. Indeed this timepiece is a nod to Omega’s long-standing reputation for top-notch legibility.

Equipped to remain readable at profound depths and darkness, the Seamaster Aqua Terra comes in a stainless steel case with a polished and brushed bracelet.

The sun-brushed green dial is both legible and stunning, with a design that features horizontal teak patterns. Omega does a great job marrying functionality with aesthetics to create an elegant timepiece.

The rhodium-plated hands and indices are all filled with white Super-LumiNova, ensuring optimal readability even at depths of 150 meters underwater. The 41mm stainless steel case houses the Caliber 8900, which offers an impressive power reserve of 60 hours. 

Manufactured to the highest standards, the Aqua Terra 150m is a standard luxury selection for anyone desiring one of the best luminous watches with a quintessential design. Lastly, it has a transparent case back, a self-locking crown, and a date display window at 6 o’clock.

5. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Ref. WAY2012.BA0927

Famous for its chronographs, TAG Heuer remains a favorite sports watch brand with one of the most renowned racing and diving timepieces. The Aquaracer Ref. WAY2012.BA0927 bears TAG Heuer’s sporting spirit with a subtle masculine flair that is complimented by a modern touch.

The iconic sports watch was designed with refined hands and indexes that are easily readable even at top speed. Horizontal stripes add depth to the blue dial, while the bold hour markers and hands have been generously coated with green C3 lume.  

Everything looks particularly sharp; the uncluttered dial, dodecagonal bezel, bold hour markers, etc, all with a generous application of Super Luminova for excellent legibility all around the clock.

The sharp-lined geometric steel case measures 43mm in diameter. Together with the slightly elongated lugs, a perfect balance between aesthetics and comfortability is attained. A combination of brushed and polished surfaces makes it sharp but not overly glittery, which is just ideal for sports-car enthusiasts.

Overall, the Aquaracer Ref. WAY2012.BA0927 was designed to offer optimal legibility at top speeds and does that beautifully. It is water resistant to a depth of 300 meters (30ATM), and a Sapphire crystal protects the dial. Powering the watch is TAG Heuer’s Calibre 5, which offers 38 hours of power reserve. 

6. Tag Heuer F1 Grande Date

Coming in the sub-$1000 range, the Tag Heuer F1 Grande Date elaborates on Heuer’s technological innovation in motorsports. Built for those who dare to constantly be on edge, the watches in the F1 line are all bold, precise, and ultra-legible.

The Grande Date comes in brushed stainless steel that measures 44mm in diameter with a height of 12.50mm. The measurements might seem big, but due to the shape of the case and bezel, it wears thinner than the measurements indicate.

The dial layout is flawlessly styled with luminous hour markers and numerals. One of the most interesting things about this timepiece is that it offers a full lume dial against other luminous watches with lume applied only on their hands and hour markers.

That said, the entire dial glows in low light conditions, but different shades of Super-LumiNova are used for the numerals and markers. Readability is optimized with this approach making it an integral tool for racers and divers alike. There’s a beautiful sub-dial for the seconds with a perfectly integrated date display (“Grande Date”) at 6 o’clock. 

Overall, the whole dial is super legible with raised black markers that are round, just like the classic F1 timepiece. A distinctive triangle above the 12 o’clock position adds to the symmetry of the dial, while brightly brushed numerals on the uni-directional bezel can be seen at 5-minute intervals.

A quality quartz movement keeps the watch highly accurate, which is just appropriate because racers should never have to bother about winding their watches. The elegant timepiece is water-resistant to a depth of 200 meters, and the dial is protected by a flat Sapphire crystal.

7. Longines Hydroconquest L3.781.4.56.6

Longines is a brand with a strong heritage in the vast world of watchmaking. Known for creating the first chronograph movement for a wristwatch (the ‘13.33Z), Longines has longstanding ties to varied forms of water sports and horse racing. The Hydroconquest line boasts this rich tradition with refined elegance and technical innovation.

Measuring 41mm in diameter, the Hydroconquest Ref. L3.781.4.56.6 is a high-performing timepiece with a lug-to-lug of 50mm. Though the dimensions suggest the watch is hefty, the curved lugs and flowing bracelet ensure a firm grip on the wrist. The case features a matte brushed finish letting the sunray black dial reflect pleasantly. 

Large applied Arabic numbers at the 12, 6, and 9 o’clock positions contribute to the personality of this timepiece, while silvered polished hands and lumed dots keep the dial ultra legible and neat. There are no lumed dots on the 12 and 6 o’clock positions, and the Arabic numeral at 3 o’clock has been discarded for a date window to maintain the dial’s symmetry.

All the hands are silvered polished and have been treated with Swiss Super-LumiNova that will glow green in lowlight conditions. The central second’s hand has a ‘lollipop’ on its head, which is luminescent, the minute’s hand has lume down its spine, and the hour hand has a diamondlike area also filled with lume. 

Overall, Longlines goes above and beyond to offer maximum legibility, which can immediately be noticed with the way the dial has been tidied up with all the extra details done away with. The bare essentials are further heightened with the sunray black and silver color; just the right color scheme for top-notch legibility. 

8. Glashütte Original Senator Excellence

Presented in a stainless steel case that measures 40mm in diameter, the Senator Excellence 1-36-01-03-02-65 is an elegant watch with a vintage feel that does not compromise its sporty look. The case fit and finish are superb, with polished and satin-brushed surfaces that elegantly reflect the light.

The top is brushed vertically, the bottom axially and the sides of the case are horizontally brushed. Under the scratch-resistant Sapphire crystal is a grainy matte black dial moderately inlaid with Super-LumiNova. The black dial contrasts perfectly with the large and luminous Arabic numerals in white, offering crisp clear legibility whenever you need it.

The steel glaive hands of the Senator Excellence are also filled with Super-LumiNova, and little triangles on the chapter ring at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock highlight the practicality of the timepiece.

Day or night, the details on the dial can be read at a glance with zero inconveniences, as Glashütte’s designers have worked at keeping it visually striking. Inside the beautiful watch is the Calibre 36-01, a robust automatic movement operating at 4Hz (28.800 vph) with an impressive power reserve of 100 hours. 

The finely finished movement with polished chamfers, 21-carat gold oscillation weight, a skeletonized rotor, and blued screws can all be savored through the sapphire crystal case back. It is water-resistant to a depth of 50 meters.

9. Hublot Big Bang Integral Grey Ceramic (Ref. 451.FX.6923.FX)

Recognized for its mastery of complex materials, Hublot is a brand loved by many for its bold designs. The Big Bang Integral Grey Ceramic is a sporty chronograph watch that bears Hublot’s innovative spirit and craftsmanship.

Coming in a 42 mm x 13.45 mm case, the model of this timepiece is monobloc so the first link of the bracelet has been fused with the case (hence the name of the watch). A high-tech ceramic that is highly resistant to scratches and about three times the hardness of steel is used for the entire timepiece except for the crown, folding clasp, H-shaped bezel screws, and a few others that have been crafted from titanium.

The open-worked dial is protected by a flat sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. The stunning dial showcases gears, a date disc, and a chronograph column wheel. At 9 o’clock is a skeletonized sub-dial, while at 3 o’clock is a chronograph counter.

The dial is profoundly readable due to its large hands and indices being filled generously with Super-LumiNova. The sports watch also has a sharp look that is just ideal but not shiny due to the alternating polished and satin-brushed finishing of the case and bracelet.

Beating at the frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour is the Unico HUB1280, a self-winding chronograph flyback movement that offers 72 hours of power reserve. It is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters.

10. Oris Aquis Date (Blue)

The Oris Aquis Date is a stunning timepiece perfect for divers who desire to tell the time at a glance at depths where legibility is crucial. The dial has a shimmering effect which Oris attributes to the appearance of sunlight on the water surface, bringing considerable gleeful design to the otherwise tough and high-performance watch.

The ref:73377304135MB comes in a 43.5mm stainless steel case and bracelet. The sunburst dark blue dial is protected by a double-domed sapphire crystal that has an interior anti-reflective coating. The overall legibility is captivating as the blue dial contrasts perfectly with the applied silver indices.

The silver indices, hour, minute, and second hands all have white Super-LumiNova inserts that glow green for maximum legibility under the waves. A date window sits neatly at 6 o’clock, keeping the uncluttered dial very balanced, so a lot of thinking must have gone into this dial to keep it legible and clean.

The bezel on the Aquis Date is also surprisingly crisp, and as usual, a ceramic bezel is known to be a champion against scratches is used. True to its purpose as a high-performing dive watch, the bezel has 15-minute markers and a dot in the triangle at 12, which is luminous.

Powering the timepiece with a 38-hour power reserve is the robust Oris 733 automatic which is based on Sellita SW200-1. It beats at 28,800vph and has 26 jewels.  

11. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (ref. 5015 1130 52A)

Ending the best lume watches with SuperLumiNova is an extraordinary dive watch… I present to you Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms in all its glory. The one word that can be used to describe this timepiece is ‘breathtaking’. It is bold, lovely, alluring, and radiant.

The watch features a black sunburst dial that contrasts excellently well with the white gold indices. The bezel also features Arabic numerals at fifteen-minute intervals with a few hash marks from 12 o’clock to 3 o’clock. All of the markers are crisp white gold and contrast beautifully with the gloss black bezel.

The sword-shaped hands have been treated with Super-LumiNova and will let out a greenish glow in the dark. The handset is a defining feature of this watch; the large hour hand has a diamond-shaped area filled with lume, the longer minute hand features lume down its spine, and the lollipop zone of the central second hand is also luminescent.

To avoid undesirable reflections, the central facet has been flattened. Together with a fully-lumed bezel insert, the dial is profoundly luminescent, offering amazing low-light visibility. The case measures a full 45mm in diameter and is more than 15mm thick, so it’s not for people with narrow wrists. It is water-resistant to a depth of 300 meters. At the heart of the watch is the caliber 1315, an automatic movement with a solid gold rotor with 120 hours of power reserve.

The Best Lume Watches

12. Seiko Monster SRPH13K1

Seiko is undoubtedly a legend in the field of dive watches. The Prospex collection (Prospex is short for Professional Specifications) continues the brand’s legacy with this tough and durable timepiece. Presented in a DLC-coated stainless steel case that measures 42.4mm in diameter, the Prospex Monster SRPH13K1 is a true sports watch with a sharp design.

The striking black dial is consistent with the overall back theme of the watch. The watch has a lug width of 20mm, so you can quickly replace the silicon strap. The dial has a day-date window function at 3 o’clock with rectangular applied hour markers large enough to contain a generous amount of lume.

Seiko’s Lumibrite has been lavishly applied on the hour hand, minute hand, and triangular tip of the second’s hand, making the watch excellently legible in low-lit conditions. Since the watch has to be perfectly visible underwater, it is great to note that it meets the stern ISO 6425 “Diver” watch specifications.

The dial is protected by the brand’s proprietary Hardlex crystal, which is harder and more scratch-resistant than mineral glass. Above the day-date display is a magnifying glass (cyclops) to aid reading. It is powered by Seiko’s caliber 4R36, an automatic movement with hacking and manual winding functions that offers a power reserve of 41 hours.

13. Grand Seiko Ref. SBGV243

Instantly recognizable for its high-grade materials and understated elegance, Grand Seiko has become the number one go-to luxury brand with affordable and elegant timepieces. The Grand Seiko Ref. SBGV243 measures just right at a diameter of 40.1mm across its stainless steel case, with a 46.6mm lug-to-lug and a thickness of 11.8mm.

The dial is black with a subtle vertically-brushed texture, and the yellow accents add a certain sporty flair to the timepiece without taking away the overall vintage vibes. Large, applied indices have been generously filled with Seiko’s LumiBrite for legibility anytime, anywhere.  LumiBrite is an improved fluorescent luminous material that is brighter than some conventional luminous materials and is known to last up to 10 times longer.

The minute and hour hands also have a great deal of lume applied carefully to ensure excellent legibility. Besides clarity, Seiko’s Lumibrite also improves the aesthetics of the dial, giving it an additional dazzle. The quality of the case finishing is outstanding, with a screw-down crown and water resistance rating of 200 meters. 

Overall, the highly accurate quartz watch has been built with great precision and care, as can be observed in the diligence given to its execution. A sapphire crystal treated with an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface protects the dial.

14. Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba (Ref. H82201131)

Coming in a 37mm stainless steel case, the Khaki Navy Scuba is a highly functional unisex watch with 100 meters of water resistance. The affordable timepiece exudes a sense of luxury with its black dial and stainless steel bracelet. The dial contains a lot of information but manages to remain uncluttered.

A 24-hour scale surrounds the inner part of the hour markers, which is typical of the Hamilton Khaki design. Bold white trapezoids take up all the cardinal positions (12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock), while rectangular ones are used for the other hour markers.

All the hour markers are filled with a generous amount of lume. The hands are mirror polished, and the hour and minute hands have also been treated with lume.  The healthy amount of lume in the hour markers and mirror-polished hands will keep the watch ultra-legible in the dark.

Prominent crown guards executed in a fine manner give the timepiece a tough look, while the screw-down crown, which feels smooth and pleasant to operate, has an H logo that compliments that of the dial. The highly accurate quartz watch is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters. Much thought has gone into the design and proportions of the Khaki Navy Scuba, and it is executed extremely well with profound legibility of the dial, hands, and bezel.

15.  A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Lumen (Ref: 405.034)

A. Lange & Söhne is respected for its outstanding models with complications that range from chronographs, tourbillons, annual calendars, and perpetual calendars… you name it.

The ‘Lumen’ collection is defined by its luminescent-inclined timepieces that feature a copious amount of lumed markers. The Ref: 405.034 is a particular stunner in this regard and pays tribute to the brand’s long-lasting watchmaking tradition.

The 41mm case is made from platinum, a pure metal which, apart from being uncommon, is hypoallergenic and has a lovely density. The Datograph Lumen has a flyback chronograph (which allows you to operate the reset function without having to stop the chronograph), two sub-dials, a power reserve indicator, and a quick-set oversized date window.

The smoked sapphire dial is breathtaking and can be dubbed the king of lumed watches. Nearly all the indications on the Datograph Lumen are luminescent. The watch’s numerals, hour, and minute hands have an ample amount of luminous material and will glow brightly in the dark through the sapphire glass that features a light-permeable coating. 

The grand date is ultra legible and also luminescent. The chronograph sweep-seconds hand, the registers, the chronograph counters, the tachymeter, and the minute scale are all luminescent and will let out a magical glow in the dark.

16. Rolex Submariner Date

Aside from the reliability of a Rolex, the Submariner Date from their catalog is known for its beauty and sizable luminescence. More specifically, I feel the lume really has a chance to shine due to the contrast of the Oystersteel color.

The boldness of this watch is found in many components, from the thick rotatable bezel to a chromalight display. I can tell just by putting it on that the watch can last more than a single lifetime. Moreover, I can’t ignore the fact that the lume draws my eye in any kind of dim lighting.

You really don’t need it to be pitch black for the lume to stand out on your wrist. With a matching Oystersteel bracelet, the Submariner Date from Rolex offers a professional look without compromising on functionality.

More specifically, I always make it a point to highlight that the watch is made with 904L steel. This means you get substantial, durable resistance with a pristine finish that is a great example of timeless luxury. 

Although I don’t have much Rolex variety in my collection, this is one I had to have. For me personally, it’s the bold take with the lume that makes the watch feel a bit different from others I have on hand.

Conclusion

Watch luminescence has evolved over the decades with upgraded and better-quality luminous materials coming into the scene. Though solely conceived for utility, the patina craze reveals to us that the appeal of lumed watches is not only driven by their illuminating properties. 

Having a great lume watch is a necessity, and many watch brands now design their timepieces with a healthy dose of lume. Here at Exquisite Timepieces, we carry a lot of respectable brands that produce watches with excellent lume. If none of the watches in this list meets your expectations, check out other brands here.

Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate, Exquisite Timepieces earns from qualifying purchases made through affiliate links. This helps support our website at no additional cost to you.

There are few watch designs as universally admired as the dive watch. Very few of us watch enthusiasts will ever use these timepieces to help us reach the depths of a kiddie pool, let alone the 100+ meters they’re specified for. But man, do we look cool wearing them.

Admittedly, I am a newbie to the world of dive watches. I’ve been an enthusiast for a long time but have always found myself attracted to a bezel-free design. It wasn’t until recently that I found myself lusting after a dive watch that broke my arbitrary threshold for an expensive timepiece. That boundary for me is $1000, and the watch that changed how I look at divers was the Tudor Black Bay 58.

As much as I love the Black Bay 58, it opened my eyes to just how much value there is in the many dive watches I tried that didn’t shatter my arbitrary “expensive” watch boundary. In this article, we will look at 25 of the best dive watches you can get for under $1000. 

To keep things interesting, I will limit myself to only 1 watch per brand so that we will look at 25 different watchmakers on this list. Time to sit back, get comfortable, and get your credit card ready as we dive head-first into the value-packed end of the dive watch segment.

Before we get started with the list, let’s first take a minute to familiarize ourselves with exactly what a dive watch is, the brief history, and what you should be looking for in a dive watch under $1000.

What is a Dive Watch?

According to ISO standard 6425, a dive watch must be able to achieve 100m of water resistance, have a method to measure elapsed time and be visible at depth. These watches need to be individually tested to meet this standard and be labeled as certified dive watches.

In execution, these criteria typically result in a watch with water-resistant seals and gaskets, an internal or external unidirectional bezel, and luminescence on the indices of the dial and pip of the bezel. There are more specific requirements that ISO will look for, such as lumed indices at every dial marker, but for our purposes, the cliff notes version will suffice.

History of the Dive Watch

1953 was a hell of a year for dive watches! The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms had been released a season before, and the Rolex Submariner, aimed at professional divers, and Zodiac Seawolf, designed for more “casual” underwater explorers, debuted at the Basel Watch Fair. 

Sure, Omega released the Marine in 1932, beating all other brands by over 2 decades, but that watch looks more like a dress watch by today’s standards, and it came on a leather strap. Everyone knows you can’t put a leather strap on a proper dive watch, so let’s just forget about that one.

The sixties and seventies saw the boundaries pushed in terms of what a dive watch needed to be. We witnessed the introduction of future dive watch staples as Omega released the Omega Seamaster 300 in 1957 and Seiko released the 62MAS in 1965. 

The introduction of the Sea-Dweller by Rolex in 1967 raised the bar again as the race to the bottom began. These pieces laid the foundation for mainstream dive watches and have inspired the design of many of the entries on this list.

What to Look for in Watches Under $1000

Now that we know a little bit more about what a dive watch is, what should we be looking for in the under $1000 price range? As mentioned earlier, to be considered a true dive watch, a timepiece needs to be ISO 6425 compliant. 

Is this necessary? I don’t really think so. I look at it the same way I do a COSC-certified movement. Is it a nice benefit and good to have? Absolutely! Do I need to have it to find enjoyment in a timepiece? Not at all.

You should still look for the basic attributes required from the standard. These watches may fall in the “dive inspired” category, and I am OK with that. I want to see a minimum of 100 m of water resistance, a timing bezel, and lumed indices on a dial. The watches on this list will have those qualifications, but whether they strictly adhere to every minute detail is something I am less concerned with.

There are some other attributes you should aim for on a dive watch at this price that are not necessarily required but are welcomed additions. A screw-down crown, although not necessary, helps to give confidence that any unexpected water ingress is unlikely to happen. 

Another area to look for at this price is a reliable movement. Whether quartz or mechanical, you should expect a more robust and reliable movement at this price point. The final characteristic to look for is quality finishing. These are some of the traits that separate these watches from their under $500 counterparts.

The Best Dive Watches Under $1000

Seiko Prospex SPB317  

In the world of value-packed dive watches, Seiko is king. Do they have the ideal option at under $1000? Not necessarily, but if there’s a brand that has built its reputation on this segment, it is the Japanese powerhouse. Despite being the leader in the market, Seiko has recently started to price itself slightly above the $1000 price range with many of its new releases.

Thankfully the SPB317 falls just below this threshold at an MSRP of $900 on a rubber strap. This “slim turtle” draws inspiration from the 6105-8000, the lesser-known case design from the series that brought us the Willard. This watch features the 6R35 Seiko in-house movement that comes with a 70-hour power reserve and robust construction. 

The 41mm fully brushed case size is a welcomed addition to the Seiko lineup, as is the 12.3mm case thickness. If you’re looking for a Seiko dive watch that can accompany you with a diving suit or a dress suit, this is the watch for you.

Longines Hydroconquest Steel Black Dial L3.740.4.56.6

A brand not often associated with the under $1000 segment is that of Longines. The Swiss Luxury brand is known for many of its heritage and chronograph pieces costing several multiples of our price restriction. In all fairness, the Longines Hydroconquest with a quartz movement falls just over our limit at an MSRP of $1050, but given the brand’s prestige, I am willing to look the other way.

The Hydroconquest is available in many configurations, but this model features a 41mm case size paired with a stainless steel bracelet. The design is one of the more conservative on our list, but that is to be expected for a brand with a history of competing directly with Rolex. If you want a watch from a brand that people will recognize, this may be the best option on the list.

Squale Super-Squale Blue Supermblbl.rlbl

Squale is an interesting brand amongst watch enthusiasts. One side focused on creating well-built homages to the Rolex Submariner while the other produced their own iconic, albeit less well-known, dive watch in the 1521.

In recent years, however, Squale has reached into their historical archive and brought us more designs that draw upon their own unique history as one of the most prolific case makers from the glory days of dive watches. 

The Super Squale is a 38mm skin diver featuring a Sellita SW-200-1 movement. This particular model features a blue dial and bezel combo and comes paired with a blue leather strap for a price of roughly $975.

The “Explorer” dial on this model helps to give this model a unique look amongst the bloated competition of skin divers at this price point. If you are looking for a unique look on a classic design, the Squale Super Squale is a great option for you.

Unimatic U1 Classic UC1

Unimatic is a great example of what a microbrand can become if they offer something that isn’t available in the mainstream market. The simplistic and brutalist aesthetics are not often ones that often get combined in terms of design.

The Unimatic aesthetic is one of the most recognizable from across a room, which for a microbrand usually only happens when someone mistakes your watch for a Rolex. The Unimatic U1 Classic is exactly what its name implies; classic.

The 41.5mm brushed case, sapphire crystal, and screw-down crown help to give this watch the robustness to match its aesthetic. At $695, the NH35 movement is certainly a sticking point for many spec-hungry watch enthusiasts.

Although you can find this movement in more affordable options, the unique design from Unimatic will not be there. If you’re looking for a watch that favors bold design over movement specs, this watch is an incredible option for you to consider. 

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf 53 Compression ZO9289

When looking at the beginning of what we recognize as a dive watch, there is only one brand on this list that was right there with Blancpain and Rolex; that is, of course, Zodiac. Despite seeing a rather turbulent last couple of decades, Zodiac is on a path to return to their former glory. 

The Fossil Group is allowing Zodiac to operate like a true microbrand but with the financial support of a large corporation. Thankfully the people behind modern Zodiac have taken this opportunity and truly surprised the enthusiast community.

By diving into their archives, Zodiac has been able to churn out hit after hit, especially with their iconic dive watch series, the Super Sea Wolf. This example is part of their compression series and features a 40mm black DLC plated finish and can be found for an MSRP of $1050 (again, I’m willing to look the other way on this one).

With a black dial, white indices, and pops of orange, this watch is a stealthy modern example of a classic design. The timepiece comes paired with an excellent rubber strap that matches the design flawlessly.

Powering this watch is the STP 1-11, a movement manufacturer owned by Fossil Group, allowing this to fall in that gray area of in-house. If you’re looking for an iconic dive watch with a history that rivals the big boys, the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression is an excellent example.

Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto H82505150

Hamilton watch company is, in many ways, a victim of their own success. Their position as the undisputed leaders of the entry-level field watch has allowed watch enthusiasts to overlook some of their other fantastic watches. Perhaps none of these offerings are as neglected as their flagship diver, the Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba.

Drawing inspiration from their iconic field watch design, the Khaki Navy Scuba auto offers a unique design that helps distinguish this watch from others in the field. The 43mm stainless steel case and bracelet, H-10 movement with 80-hour power reserve, and ceramic bezel offer some of the very best you can expect for roughly $995. 

Hamilton also gives you something extra at this price point, which is 300 meters of water resistance. If you’re looking for a well-built dive watch from a brand with a storied history and specifications to match, the Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Automatic is a great option to consider.

Citizen Titanium Promaster Dive Automatic NB6021-68L

In the last 5 years, Citizen has managed to fill the hole left by Seiko in the entry-level dive watch market. Don’t get me wrong, Seiko still provides excellent examples at the under $500 price point; they just tend to focus their attention a little higher, as is evident by the SPB317 mentioned earlier. 

As it turns out, Seiko isn’t the only brand that can deliver exceptional value in the $1000 price range either, as Citizen has once again released a product that makes us wonder who the real king of Japanese watchmaking is.

This particular watch is the Citizen Titanium Promaster Dive Automatic. This recreation features a crowd-pleasing 41mm case dimension crafted out of super titanium. This enhanced material allows Citizen to offer a more robust material while also reducing the overall weight for the wearer.  

This watch is powered by the 9051 automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve. The blue dial and matching titanium bracelet on this model provide a very classic look with a unique origin story as well. If you are after a dive watch with a fun history and case material, you’d be hard-pressed to do any better than the Citizen Titanium Promaster Dive Automatic. 

Orient Kamasu Red RA-AA0003R19A

Just because you have a budget of $1000 doesn’t mean you need to spend every penny of it to get a great dive watch! No brand understands this statement better than that of Orient. Much like Citizen, the last few years have allowed Orient to fill in some of the gaps left behind by Seiko and their elevating retail prices. 

When the beloved SKX was discontinued in 2018, many people looking for an affordable dive watch began to look elsewhere. One of the most popular alternatives came from Orient and their Kamasu line.

The Orient Kamasu comes in with a case dimension of 42mm, in-house caliber F6922 movement with a 40-hour power reserve, and day-date complication. Despite not having the ISO certification that attracted many people to the SKX, this watch was built to accompany a person in any environment where an SKX was suitable. 

The best part about this watch is its price tag. While the MSRP is $550, you can get the version with the absolutely stunning red sunburst dial for $200-$300 if you shop around. This is a steal when you factor in the amount of watch you get for the price! This dial is a game changer at this price, and if you are looking for a watch that gives you that X factor while not busting your budget, this is the watch for you!

Mido Ocean Star Tribute Gradient M026.830.17.081.00

Another brand that can fall under the shadow of others at times is that of Mido. Being part of the SWATCH group has helped give them financial stability but also made the brand to be overshadowed by more prominent entry-level brands like Longines and Hamilton. Mido has a great history, and one of their most famous models is the Ocean Star dive watch.

The Mido Ocean Star Tribute Gradient is going to fit the description of many watches on this list. 40.5mm stainless steel case, sapphire crystal, and a Caliber 80 automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve round out a spec list that any watch at roughly $950 would be proud to offer. 

However, the black/gray gradient dial is the stand-out feature of this timepiece. The fume dial is executed perfectly, allowing the watch to draw upon its vintage inspiration without artificial patination. If you are looking for a watch that draws upon a heritage design but appears like you just took it out of the box today, the Mido Ocean Star Tribute Gradient is a great option for you to consider.

CWC 1983 Royal navy Divers Quartz Reissue RN300-83 QM60

When searching for a dive watch with military history, few can compete with CWC at any price, let alone under $1000. Modern-day CWC is a brand that appears to have accidentally gained popularity. Their focus on military spec watches made them unaware of the fact that they were creating exactly the type of watches many collectors are lusting after.

Thankfully for us, they have started to capitalize on this popularity and have released some timepieces that are ready for military action and Instagram wrist shots. The CWC 1983 Royal Navy Quartz Reissue is made to the exact same specification as the MOD 1983 specification, minus the tritium lume that has since been replaced by Super Luminova.

The watch features a 41mm case and fixed lugs, limiting it to pass-through straps, but given its history, I couldn’t picture this watch on anything else. My favorite part of this watch is the Swiss Ronda quartz movement. Not necessarily the movement itself but the robustness that a quartz movement allows for a Mil-Spec timepiece.

CWC proudly displays quartz on the dial, ensuring that the owner knows this decision, both today and in 1983, was not made based on cost savings but because this movement was the right tool for the job. If you are looking for a real tool watch with military history, this CWC 1983 Royal Navy is a fantastic option for you.

Marathon Arctic Edition Medium Diver’s Quartz WW194027-WD

Another brand that caters to Military Spec watches is the Canadian-based Marathon. Their durable construction and use of tritium tube luminescence have helped give these watches a distinct personality in the watch market.

The Marathon Arctic Edition Medium Divers Quartz offers much of what you would expect from a dive watch produced by Marathon. The brutalist design, tritium gas tubes, and robust construction will help this watch meet the demands of even the harshest environments. 

However, the arctic white dial and 36mm case dimension give this watch something not often associated with a brutalist design: a reserved appearance. Coming in at $800, this watch gives you all of the design and function that Marathon is known for at a size that even the smallest of wrists can pull off.

Tissot Seastar 2000Professional Powermatic 80 T120.607.17.441.01

Like many of the brands on this list, Tissot is a part of the SWATCH group. They have a history dating back to 1853 and have produced several signature models in that time. The Tissot Seastar is one of their signature lines that range from casual desk divers to modern high-specification dive watches.

Thankfully for us, even their premium Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic can be purchased at $995 when accompanied by a rubber strap. The Powermatic 80 with Nivachron balance spring and ISO 6425 certification are class-leading at this entry-level range. 

It is their 2000 meters of water resistance with automatic helium escape valve, however, that truly separates this watch from the rest. This 46mm dive watch will keep up with almost any timepiece you can find from the big boys. If you are looking for an over-engineered timepiece with looks to match, the Tissot Seastar 2000 professional is the watch for you.

Certina DS Action Diver C032.807.11.051.00

Staying within the SWATCH group, Certina is another brand that can sometimes get lost in the shuffle. Their lack of mainstream availability in many major markets has limited the brand to only those actively seeking them out. Despite this lack of availability, Certina has been releasing some well-proportioned dive watches that aim to fill some noticeable gaps in the market.

The Certina DS Action Diver offers a lot of value for roughly $850. The 38mm stainless steel case and bracelet offer a wearing dimension that is very hard to find in a modern piece. The classic dial layout and handset help differentiate from the many Submariner homages at this price point while remaining unique and timeless. 

The Powermatic 80 is almost standard for these SWATCH group divers, but their quality and specification cannot be ignored. If you are looking for a classically designed dive watch at a modest size that doesn’t scream vintage inspired, the Certina DS Action Diver is a great option to consider.

Victorinox I.N.O.X Professional Diver 241733

A relative newcomer to the watch scene, Victorinox, a brand known more for their Swiss knives, has quickly made a name for itself in the entry-level watch space. Their timepieces are known for their class-leading robustness. They have been known to test their watches in ways more commonly associated with tragic horror stories than evidence of durability. Who do they think they are? G Shock?

The Victorinox I.N.O.X Professional Diver carries much of the design aesthetic from the original I.N.O.X. line and adds a dive bezel and ISO 6425 certification. The 45mm stainless steel case is hefty, to say the least, but the rubber strap helps the overall wearability. 

The watch is powered by a Swiss quartz movement allowing this timepiece to stand up to almost any task you can throw at it. If you are looking for a tough-as-nails dive watch with a tasteful design, the I.N.O.X Professional Diver could be the one for you.

Shinola The Duck 42mm 20242335-SDT-011571261

Shinola is a brand that is not on many watch enthusiasts’ radars, but maybe it should be. As of late, the brand is paying closer attention to the watch enthusiasts market while still remaining loyal to their fashion-forward fan base that got them where they are today. 

Although they have made some excellent automatic dive watches in the last few years, they do fall outside of our $1000 budget. Thankfully, they have also released something for their more budget-conscious customers as well.

The 42mm Shinola Duck comes at a price of $650 and offers a lot of what has made the brand a success in the mainstream market. The unique colorways, reliable quartz movement hand-assembled in Detroit, and superior build quality and materials to comparable fashion watches have made this watch a great option for the casual consumer. 

The unique vintage dive styling, 200 meters of water resistance, and excellent rubber dive strap have helped to make this fashion watch a suitable option for any budget-conscious enthusiast. If you are looking for a fun watch that can join you on any adventure, the Shinola Duck is a great option.

Maen The New Hudson 38 MK4

There is no shortage of microbrands producing dive watches under $1000. In order to stand out from the pack, you need to give consumers something extra. With Maen watches, this comes in the form of affordable timepieces that stand out for their class-leading specifications and their unique take on classic watchmaking design.

The Maen New Hudson in 38mm is now on its 4^th iteration. The model features a 38mm case dimension with a standard black dial and handset. The bezel and hands feature red accents that help give this traditional dial just the right pop of color to help it stand out from the crowd. This iteration features a Ronda R-150 automatic movement paired with a beautifully constructed stainless-steel bracelet. 

Maen has managed to pack all of this design and specification in a watch that cost roughly $575. If you are looking for a watch that pushes the boundaries of specifications that are available for $1000 but don’t quite feel comfortable stretching to the top of that budget, the Maen New Hudson is a great option to consider.

Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 C60-38ADA31S0KW0-HKO

Christopher Ward is a brand known for setting the standard for the quality of watches you can get at a given price point. In many ways, they are the originator of cutting out the middleman, and in the case of Christopher Ward, this statement is more than just a marketing gimmick.

Despite having a very wide product catalog stretching from field watches to high complications like the new Bel Canto, their bread and butter are undoubtedly dive watches. The Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 comes in a multitude of dial colors as well as 38mm, 40mm, and 42mm to help fit any wrist size.

The newly engineered slim case has helped Christopher Ward achieve a case thickness of just 11mm despite having a commonly used SW-200-1 movement. Miraculously, they have achieved this thickness while maintaining the 300 meters of water resistance and including a sapphire exhibition case back.

This model is paired with an excellent rubber strap and comes at $865. If you are looking for a sleek dive watch that will have no problem sliding under any cuff, the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 is a great place to start.

Yema Navygraf Heritage YNAV2019-AMS

Of the many “Zombie” brands that have been resurrected over the last few years, few have captured the interest of watch enthusiasts like Yema. Their unique heritage designs helped them stand out from the crowd and develop a new era of dedicated loyalists.

Their push into in-house movements and collaborations with military organizations are evidence of their commitment to creating timepieces that appeal to enthusiasts. The Yema Navygraf Heritage is a great entry point into what this brand is all about.

The pops of yellow on the handset are what truly separates this watch from other vintage-inspired timepieces in the market. The engine powering this watch is the Yema2000 in-house caliber, no small feat for any brand at this price point. 

The 39mm case comes paired with a stainless steel bracelet and helps this watch work on many wrists while offering everyday versatility. Coming in at $799, the Yema Navygraf is a great option for anyone looking for a heritage diver with an identity all its own.

Doxa Sub 200 Professional 799.10.351.21

In terms of historical dive watch brands, few garner as much respect as Doxa. Much like Yema, this brand has been resurrected from the ashes, but its mainstream notoriety comes from its historical position as a professional dive watch pioneer.

The Doxa Sub 200 Professional is a slight departure from the design ethos and functionality that the brand is known for, but given the clout that the Doxa name carries amongst enthusiasts, it doesn’t seem to matter.

The 42mm case shape shares several similarities to the iconic Omega Speedmaster, which helps it to fit a wide range of wrist sizes, despite its larger case dimension. The watch is powered by the Sellita SW-200-1 and, in this example, comes paired with a well-built beads-of-rice bracelet.

Despite being available in several colors, the Doxa signature orange, known as Professional, is the option I would go with. If you are looking for a watch at just under the $1000 mark, coming in at $990 to be exact, with a real diving history, the Doxa Sub 200 is a great option to look into.

Halios Fairwind Bathyal Blue Sapphire Diver

Despite the influx of microbrand watches these days, very few have seen the incredible support of Canadian-based Halios. In many ways, they are the Rolex of the microbrand scene. Their watches require a waitlist and often sell for a premium over list on the secondary market.

One of their most recent models is the Halios Fairwind Bathyal Blue Sapphire Diver. This watch features a perfectly sized 39mm case, a sleek 12.4mm case thickness, and robust SW200-1 movement. The Bathyal Blue color of this dial is stunning. The sapphire bezel is something often not seen on watches under $5000, let alone $1000. 

With its on-the-fly micro-adjustment, the bracelet is one of the best executions of this feature I have seen on any watch, regardless of price. All of that brings me to my favorite aspect of this watch; the price. If you can be patient and get yourself on the waitlist, you will not find a higher quality watch for $775.

Baltic Aquascaphe Titanium Blue

Another microbrand that has gained mainstream notoriety of late is that of Baltic. They have produced hit after hit, drawing upon the vintage archives of the golden era of watch design. Their vintage design aesthetic is executed perfectly and will have others wondering if your timepiece is modern or truly a well-preserved example from the past.

The Baltic Aquascaphe Titanium Blue draws upon that initial design but does something Baltic isn’t necessarily known for. They made the watch in titanium, a relatively modern material known for its corrosion resistance and lightness.  

The watch features a 41mm case, is powered by a Miyota 9039 movement, and, thanks to its titanium construction, weighs in at an astounding 55 grams. All of this for a price of roughly $775. If you are looking for a vintage design utilizing modern technology that might make you forget you’re wearing a watch in the first place, the Baltic Aquascaphe Titanium might be for you.

Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver

Few brands have a historical archive deeper than Bulova. The Citizen-owned watch brand has several distinct watch designs to its credit. From the Bulova Lunar Pilot that actually went to the moon to the iconic Accutron Spaceview that captured the imaginations of millions.

Despite these signature models, the watch that I was most excited to see reintroduced was the Devil Diver. The Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver features a 44mm C-Shaped case design that helps this watch fit closer to a 41-42mm on the wrist.

Powered by the 821D automatic movement, the Devil Diver is just as impressive inside as the heritage design on the outside. The Devil Diver gets its name from the 666 ft of water resistance on the original, which thankfully remains but is not embellished.

My favorite colorway of this watch features a green dial with a matching green and black bezel. Coming in at a price of $795, this heritage-inspired design is great for anyone looking for a quality timepiece with a bit of color and history.

Glycine Combat Sub Sport GL0327

Glycine is a very interesting brand. They have a prolific military history that allowed them to become an enthusiast favorite. In 2016, however, the brand was purchased by Invicta. Glycine remains independently operated, but Invicta’s influence is starting to creep in. 

For this list, we have focused on the MSRP of the brands we mention, which puts Glycine almost out of reach. Thankfully, there are a few models which manage to squeeze in, but if you are a savvy consumer, there are several deals to be had.

The Glycine Combat Sub Sport is a 42mm stainless-steel model that borrows many of its design cues from the Rolex Submariner. The gilt bezel and writing on the dial are reminiscent of the Tudor Black Bay 58, while the blue color and rubber strap give me Omega Seamaster Professional 300 vibes. 

All things considered, this version actually looks great, even though I personally prefer some of their other Combat Sub models with a stronger military aesthetic. The watch is powered by the same GL224 (Sellita SW200-1) movement as the other Combat Subs and carries with it the same impressive 10.6mm case thickness. 

The watch comes in at an MSRP of just under $1000, which admittedly seems high, but a quick internet search will get this model closer to $500. If you’re willing to search for a deal and are looking for a slim dive watch, Glycine is a great place to start your search.

Traska Seafarer Mint Green

Traska is yet another microbrand that has caught the attention of the enthusiast community. Their vintage designs with pops of color have helped give this brand a unique identity that allows this watch to appeal to a different demographic altogether.

Of all of the entries on this list, the upcoming Traska is the one that had my wife say, “oh, I like that”! As someone not normally attracted to dive watches, her approval says something about the brand. The Traska Seafarer in mint green does not look like many other dive watches on the market.

The dual crown design with the inner rotating bezel gives this watch a dressier appearance than the standard rotating bezel we are all used to. The mint green color with blue accents provides this design with a playful and exciting color scheme.

The 38.5mm stainless-steel case has received a proprietary hardening treatment allowing the case to achieve a hardness significantly higher than standard stainless steel. The watch is powered by a Miyota 9039 caliber and is paired with a well-finished stainless steel bracelet.

Factor in that this “dressier” watch is still capable of 150m of water resistance, and you have a very capable tool watch for $570. If you are looking for a dive watch that is tough but doesn’t necessarily look like a dive watch, the Traska Seafarer is a great option to consider.

Apple Watch Ultra

It seems weird to mention the Apple Watch on a blog aimed at watch enthusiasts, but Apple has been on a tear since releasing its first model in 2015. In many ways, the popularity of the smartwatch mimics that of the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s.

This time, the difference is that brands aren’t abandoning everything they know to chase the new technology. It’s almost as if the brands strong enough to have survived the Quarts Crisis taught everyone a thing a two. The latest iteration of the Apple Watch, known as the Ultra, was kind of a surprise to me. The beefed-up 49mm case made of titanium is a pretty drastic change to their proven fashion-first approach.

This Apple Watch Ultra is waterproof to 100 meters, far from the highest on this list, but for something that shares more identity with your smartphone than a traditional dive watch, very impressive. When you factor in the functionality that the App Store provides, this watch truly is a force to be reconned with.

Coming in at $799, the Apple Watch Ultra offers a different experience than any other dive watch on this list. If you’re looking for a connected option that is well-built and able to stand up to almost any challenge, the Apple Watch Ultra is your best option.

Final Thoughts

There you have it, a list of 25 of the best dive watches under $1000. This list gave a little bit of everything; Swiss-made, Japanese powerhouses, mainstream brands, quite a few microbrands, and even a smartwatch. 

If you’re looking for the best option, like anything else, it will come down to personal preference. These are all quality watches that will be more than capable of accompanying you on a swim or any other adventure, regardless of their ISO compliance. Thankfully, coming in at a price of under $1000, unlike my Black Bay 58, you might not have to limit yourself to just one.

Happy watch hunting!