Bronze has undoubtedly been the trend of the watch industry in recent years, with many of our favorite luxury watch manufacturers designing iconic timepieces from this unique material. A bronze case elevates a watch to a whole different level.
The allure of a bronze watch comes from its unique characteristic to age beautifully and change color over time. As a historical maritime material, bronze possesses excellent resistance to corrosion, making it a great choice for dive watches. Want to add a dash of maverick charm to your outfit this coming summer? Go bronze!
From the Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold to the Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’, bronze watches are on fire lately, and the flames are here to stay. I assure you this isn’t part of the burgeoning trend that explodes within the watch community and dies after a couple of months.
Bronze is getting increasingly popular. And why not? No other material in the Horological world creates a natural patina that is unique to the wearer when exposed to external elements. This is why we’ve put together this hand-picked selection of some of the best bronze dive watches in 2025. Enjoy!
About Bronze Dive Watches
Bronze is an alloy of copper and tin (typically consisting of 88% copper and 12% tin). However, other substances are used by watch brands in their composition, including aluminum, zinc, and iron, depending on the desired look of the finished product.
The color varies from yellow to a sort of rosy hue, and this is determined by the amount of copper added to the mix (more copper, more reddish coloration), giving the watch a vintage look.
Because of its hardness and durability, bronze was the choice material for the making of boats and ship fittings before the employment of stainless steel. It is still employed in the making of ship propellers and submerged bearings.
Since bronze is a historical maritime material, it makes perfect sense that it is used in the making of dive watches (Over 85% of bronze watches on the market today are divers).
Its exceptional corrosion resistance and excellent strength make it a choice material for dive watch cases. All true bronze watches are also anti-magnetic.
What’s even more impressive is that they acquire a stable oxidized layer over the years that protects the structural component and gives the timepiece a unique patina.
The History Of Bronze Dive Watches
The discovery of bronze dates back several millennia BC. Because of the numerous advantageous properties, the versatility of its application cuts across many sectors. In the watch industry, Gérald Genta is the visionary who pioneered the concept of bronze watches.
He was the first designer to venture off-piste by unleashing the first timepiece with a bronze case (the Gefica Safari watch) in the 1980s. Though still obscure, the lore surrounding the production of this timepiece suggests that it was produced upon request by three hunters.
These men wanted a watch that wouldn’t reflect light and scare off their prey, and bronze was chosen. Because of its muted look and compelling properties, it worked perfectly well for a tool watch of that sort. The bronze watch was powered by a quartz movement and featured a case back manufactured in titanium.
At that time, many consumers wanted their watches to remain radiant and new for as long as possible, so the use of bronze was seen as a quirky design experiment. Not many brands paid attention to the use of bronze for watchmaking since it didn’t have a mainstream appeal until the 21st century. In 2011, an Italian brand, Panerai, launched its first bronze watch, the PAM382 Bronzo.
The watch was worn by Stallone in “The Expendables,” popularizing the metal as a watchmaking material. Driven by the success of the PAM382 and the practical and aesthetic value of bronze cases, an interest in watch brands and collectors alike was sparked. As a result, the rugged and lustrous material made it come back in the watch industry from that time and is getting increasingly popular.
Should You Buy A Bronze Dive Watch?
Bronze is not a typical choice in watchmaking, and bronze watches sometimes trigger a divisive topic within the community of collectors. The appeal of a bronze watch is that it develops a patina that is unique to the wearer. Some collectors consider this discoloration dull and muddy, while others adore it for its vintage look.
The question of whether you should buy a bronze watch or not must be answered personally. Think about whether you appreciate the idea of owning a watch that ages and develops a patina over time. Again, do you take pleasure in the long history and concept behind why bronze is used for watch cases?
Bronze is not for everyone. However, if you are an adventurer searching for unconventional material that is sure to catch people’s attention, go for it! Bronze watches are ideal for diving, camping, hiking, trips… you name it! They will certainly make you stand out from the crowd in a world full of gold and steel watches.
And now, the moment we’ve all been waiting for! The 15 Best Bronze Dive Watches!
Easily the icon of vintage-inspired bronze divers, the Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold encapsulates all of the classical retro dive watch design codes. It is presented in a new gold alloy like Omega’s Moonshine and Sedna gold, Omega’s Bronze Gold.
This material is outstanding and captivating both in its physical and aesthetical allure. It consists of copper (which is the main element of any bronze metal) with about 37.5% of gold, allowing it to be legally described as a 9k gold watch. Just like traditional bronze alloys, it develops a unique patina over time.
The 41 mm case features a distinct warm pink color and has a brown ceramic bezel ring with a diving scale rendered in vintage Super-LumiNova. The elaborate finishing of the case gives it a luxurious look and feel that is balanced with a simple and clean dial.
The stark brown dial features different tones of brown, and legibility is excellent, thanks to a fully “lumed” bezel and dial. The dial is protected by a high-quality domed crystal with no edge distortion. The crystal greatly contributes to evoking a vintage feel as it bears a resemblance to Plexiglass with its seamless curved surface.
The watch is water resistant to a depth of 300 meters and is powered by the impressive OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8912. The high-end caliber features a non-magnetic Co-Axial escapement and provides a power supply of approximately 60 hours.
In 1926, Hans Wilsdorf established Tudor to offer a more affordable alternative to Rolex. The brand has developed a devoted following thanks to its “Rolex-like quality” and experimental designs. The Black Bay dive watch collection is easily Tudor’s most popular catalog and is fundamental to the success the brand enjoys.
The Black Bay 58 Bronze is presented in a 39mm satin-brushed bronze case with an oversized crown that has no guards. The perfectly sized watch has a lug-to-lug measurement of 48mm and wears extremely well due to the curvature of the case.
The entire watch is bronze, apart from the case back, which is made of stainless steel that is further coated with bronze-colored PVD. The watch features a “brown-bronze” domed dial with applied Arabic numerals at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, like an “Explorer” dial.
A gradient dial gets collectors hot under the collar, and Tudor has adopted this approach by making the perimeter of the dial darker than its center. Adorning the dial are gold-colored hands and markers, and even the flange is plated in gold, accentuating the allure of the watch.
It is powered by the COSC-certified manufacturer caliber MT5400 that provides a power reserve of 70 hours when fully wound and is water resistant to a depth of 200 meters.
Housed in a 38mm bronze case, the Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’ from Oris is an unconventional timepiece with a strong visual impact. The case of the watch is crafted from bronze, including the unidirectional bezel and its insert. The case back, however, is made of stainless steel.
Water resistance is rated at 100 meters, and the dive watch features a unidirectional bezel with a 60-minute count-up scale in positive relief. It has a screw-down crown, and Its dial is protected by an ultra-domed sapphire crystal, adding a vintage feel to the lighthearted and fun watch.
The green dial is quite appealing, with circular and rectangular applied markers coated in gold to correspond with the bronze case and bracelet. The hands and applied indices have a fair amount of Super-LumiNova, making the watch legible in low-light conditions.
The unisex watch has a date window positioned at 6 o’clock, and it is indicated in black marking on a white disc. Powering the watch is the Oris 733, a self-winding movement that is based on the Sellita SW200-1. It contains 26 jewels and provides a power reserve of 38 hours.
Longines watchmakers are not shy about revolutionary inventions but have always kept the look and feel consistent. This is why the Legend Diver Bronze retains the spirit and aesthetics of a 1960s diver watch from the brand with avant-garde technicalities.
The bronze case measures 42mm across and is finely polished with slender lugs, two large crowns, and a hypoallergenic titanium case back. Green watches are trending, and Longines has followed the all-green trend by releasing this mesmerizing watch that continues to provoke perplexing responses.
The dial graduates from green in the center to a near-stark black around the peripheries. The forest green dial looks faded, which is a smart move from Longlines, as the bronze case will change to mossy green as it patinas, creating a remarkably unique aesthetic pattern.
Painted Arabic numerals and indexes adorn the dial, while the rose gold peak hands add elegance without sacrificing legibility. Inside is an ETA movement; Sellita SW200 automatic movement, the L888.5 caliber with 4Hz frequency and a healthy 64h power reserve. The watch is presented on a hand-sewn two-stitch strap in smooth calf leather.
Inspired by the corrosion-resistant HMS Beagle bronze ship (the HMS Beagle was made famous by Charles Darwin’s expedition), this robust watch is designed for expeditions and diving.
The IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Darwin is encased in 44mm of high-tech bronze alloy and contains aluminum. The use of aluminum will ensure the case ages more subtly over time, making it all the more pleasant. With a height of 17 mm, a big crown, and pushup buttons, a sense of sturdiness and masculinity is reinforced here.
The “Darwin” timepiece shares the same dial layout with the Aquatimer generation and comes in a matching black rubber strap with an IWC-patented quick-change system. However, in this instance, the hands, batons, and numerals feature a warm gold hue, save for the tip of the central chronograph hand, which is rendered in black with a yellow arrow tip.
But, the warm tone is reiterated in the beige luminescent coating on the hour markers, hands, and the quarter-hour scale of the internal rotating bezel. The watch is powered by an IWC-manufactured movement, the 89365 Calibre, with 35 jewels and a power reserve of 68 hours.
Panerai is the brand credited for spurring a growing trend and popularizing Bronze case watches with the release of PAM382 in 2011. Designed to take on a subtle patina and dark luster over time, the PAM00968 echoes the design of the first Bronzo. It is big, bold, and daring and is presented on an extremely attractive bronze case with a ceramic bezel.
Panerai is a respected name in the collecting circle with a heritage that is closely linked with deep-sea diving. Building on the legacy of its ancestor, the tough watch measures an impressive 47mm across, and Panerai reports that it contains “161 grams of heavy metal, for modern heroes only”.
Unlike other aluminum-bronze alloys, the phosphor bronze used by Panerai for this watch will produce a distinct green patina over time on the surface to protect the metal underneath from further corrosion. The brushed bronze case is striking and features a crown-locking lever trademarked by Panerai. The bridge device protects the winding crown while a micro-sandblasted ceramic bezel insert accentuates the sporty design of the timepiece.
The watch has a strong personality with a distinctive dark brown dial that features a luminous baton and dot markers with neat lettering, like other watches in the Submersible catalog. Visible through the sapphire case back is an automatic mechanical movement; the P.9010 with a robust 72-hour power reserve. The watch is rated water-resistant to 300m/1,000ft.
Here’s another unique and bold timepiece from Bell & Ross. Bell & Ross established itself as a guru in the domain of iconic dive watches since the release of the first divers in 1997. The Hydromax was a rugged watch with impressive diving capacities and a water resistance rating of 11,100m. The BR 03-92 Diver Brown Bronze follows the military-inspired style of its predecessors and was a monster hit when it was unveiled in 2022.
The watch is presented in a 42 mm bronze case with a “circle within a square” design. The case is crafted out of Phosphor bronze (or CuSn8) which is 92% copper and 8% tin. Unlike many other bronze diving watches, this alloy achieves a remarkable warm brown patina over time (instead of mossy green), depending on the environment and usage.
The case back is hypoallergenic stainless steel, while the bezel is anodized aluminum (this means it has been treated to produce an exceptionally durable finish). The brown dial matches the matt brown leather strap with beige topstitching.
The dial has a monochromatic look with no touches of color except for the rose gold-plated applique indices and hands. It is water-resistant to a depth of 300 meters and is powered by the Calibre BR-CAL.302.
TAG Heuer’s quest for excellence, innovation, and new challenges has given birth to the Autavia Bronze. Designed for automobiles and aviation (Aut + Avia resulted in the “Autavia” name), this timepiece boasts the ruggedness and versatility that was evident in the original Autavia from 1960.
The 42 mm bronze case features a bidirectional rotating bezel in brown with a 60-minute scale printed on a ceramic insert. The case of the watch is refined and polished and has a strong neo-retro feel that reinforces the Autavia vintage values.
The smoked sparse dial adds a striking look to the watch, making it an excellent choice for explorers who want to flaunt something exclusive and adventurous. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment and features large sword-shaped hands and Arabic numerals. At 6 o’clock, a small aperture replaces the digit and provides a useful date indication.
The hands and numerals are treated with Super-LumiNova and will give off a bright white coloration for the readability of the watch in low light. The watch is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet) and is powered by the chronometer-certified Calibre 5 with a power reserve of 38 hours.
Rado is a globally recognized watch brand famous for pioneering the use of cutting-edge materials such as ceramic and titanium. Captain Cook is one of the brand’s most popular collections with very appealing divers, all of which feature high-tech materials.
Amongst the watches that Rado introduced in this collection, the Ref. R32504205 might well be the best deal of the lot. This timepiece is a slightly formal watch with a 42.0mm bronze case perfectly designed to stand the test of time. With a height of 12.5mm, straight case bands, and sharply sloped lugs, the watch sits well on the wrist.
Launched as a reinterpretation of the diver’s model from 1962, the watch bears the original look of the 37mm vintage icon, which was named after the British explorer Captain Cook. The bronze case is simply elegant, with a solid screwed titanium case back and screw-down crown that guarantees 300 meters of water resistance.
The bowl-shaped bezel is made from high-tech ceramic and features laser engraved/metalized numbers and markers. As you would expect from Rado, the domed dial is striking with its sunray-brushed dark blue surface that plays beautifully with light. The watch is powered by the caliber ETA C07, an automatic movement with 80 hours of power reserve.
Crafted in anti-corrosive bronze, the C60 Trident Bronze is an unquestionably high-quality watch in both finish and construction. Christopher Ward started in 2004 by selling “affordable luxury” watches designed in England and manufactured in Switzerland, the epicenter of fine watchmaking.
The young brand is known to offer sensational value-for-money timepieces, and this diver, with a depth rating of 600 meters, reinforces the bespoke credentials of the microbrand. The bronze case measures 40 mm in diameter and is executed well with good details.
The industry standard bronze (CuSn8, which is a solid mix of copper and tin) is used for the case. This alloy develops a unique bronze patina as it oxidizes depending on the environment of the wearer. Often the coloration is the famous green hue, but no two watches will look the same.
Another breathtaking feature is the contrasting blue dial which has been hand-distressed and executed beautifully with good details. Adorning the deep blue ‘ombré’ dial are bronze-colored hands and indexes filled with Super-LumiNova C1 for visibility in low light. Beating at the heart of the C60 Trident Bronze is the Sellita SW200-1 with a 38-hour power reserve.
With 300 meters of water resistance, the Seastrong 300 Diver Bronze from Alpina is a dense, rugged, and solid tool watch. The timepiece is presented in a big, chunky, 44mm case with a sleek design and affordability that makes it a great value proposition for new and seasoned collectors.
The design of the Diver Bronze takes cues from Alpina’s classic diver from the 1960s, the Seastrong 10. The case, which is stainless steel with bronze PVD coating, has a stepped cushion-like design with sharp angles when viewed from above.
The watch has a sporty look with a black dial and beige bezel. The unidirectional bezel has engraved minute markings and a radiant glossy finish that reflects surrounding light in fun ways. The dial features minute indices and rectangular hour markers printed in yellowish brown to keep with the overall vintage vibe.
The hour and minute hands are skeletonized halfway, and the space is filled with lume, offering ample legibility. Visible through the transparent sapphire case back is the AL-525 movement with 26 jewels and a power reserve of 38 hours.
12. Glycine Combat Sub Bronze (ref. GL0374)
Glycine is an entry-level Swiss brand founded in 1914 by Eugene Meylan. It is famous for its highly capable pilot and combat watches, used extensively in commercial and military aviation. The bronze case measures 42 mm with polished and brushed surfaces.
The overall design of the case is pleasant, elegant, and much more graceful than the usual sporty production of Glycine. It is about 11.5mm thick with a solid oversize crown and crown guards. The bezel is somewhat flat and beveled outwards with an aluminum insert and coin-edge rim.
The gilt dial is impressively clean and legible, with a date window at 3 o’clock and a vivid red seconds hand that enlivens it so charmingly. The date display features white printing on a black background, and the date window has a lumed frame which is quite thoughtful.
The indices and handset are well-lumed, simple, and legible, and the dial is protected by a flat sapphire crystal. Under the dial is the tested, tried, and true Swiss ETA 2824 automatic movement which Glycine refers to as GL224 Swiss Automatic.
The movement is protected by a screw-in, stainless steel case back, ensuring you get the 200 meters of water resistance advertised on the dial at 6 o’clock.
The Kontiki Bronze Diver was released in 2018 to commemorate the 70th anniversary of Thor Heyerdahl’s legendary KonTiki expedition. The watch is presented in a robust 44mm brushed bronze case with a massive crown and a green ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel.
At 14.5mm thick, expect a substantial cool feel on your wrist; add that to a gorgeous dark brown leather strap with green stitch detailing, and you’re bound to grab attention. The dial is gorgeous, with large triangular luminescent markers and a shiny green granite-patterned surface, giving this piece depth and presence.
Under the screwed stainless steel case back is a reliable automatic movement, the EMC 3902. The EMC 3902A was first designed by Eterna in 2006 and is meant to become the standard engine of the brand which will certainly bring a serious competitive advantage.
The remarkable caliber features Eterna’s patented technology known as the Spherodrive, a ball-bearing-mounted spring barrel construction. It contains 30 jewels, beats at 28,800 bph, and contains a power reserve of 65 hours. It is water-resistant to a depth of 200 meters.
The Aquascaphe Bronze Blue Gilt is presented in a solid bronze case that measures 39 mm in diameter with crown guards and a full bronze bezel. Right at first glance, you’ll notice how Baltic crafts this timepiece to bear a resemblance to the number one legend in underwater exploration history; the Bathyscaphe.
The little French brand has outdone itself by creating one of the most well-thought-out and irresistible bronze watches in recent years. On the wrist, the watch makes an impression, especially when it’s fresh from the factory and has not lost its bright gold luster. The bronze case now has a bright, almost gold sheen but is still discreet and less flashy than an 18k yellow-gold case.
The bronze used is an aluminum-copper alloy which will transition subtly to a darker and more somber bronze tone resulting in a natural patina. So be rest assured that you won’t be left with a completely different-looking watch after a few months of wear.
As far as the layout goes, there’s a minute index printed around the outer edge of the dial with gold-plated indices and hands that match the case. There are luminous Arabic numerals and dots with decent texts that perfectly integrate into the design of the blue gilt dial.
Ticking away at 28,800 beats per hour at the heart of the watch is the Miyota 9039 movement with 42 hours of power reserve.
15. Boldr Odyssey Bronze Coal Black
Last but not least is the Odyssey Bronze Coal Black from a Singapore-based company. Boldr is an independent microbrand that manufactures contemporary watches that are functional and elegant.
The brand is known to regularly trumpet its love for daring adventures, and this watch continues this proud tradition by pushing the performance of the Odyssey collection further.
Made only for the fearless and adventurous, the Odyssey Bronze Coal can manage depths of up to 500 meters (1650ft), making it worthy of professional divers. It is presented in a robust CuSn8 bronze case that measures 45.5mm in diameter.
The case has a very interesting design that is pleasant and much more understated than the usual sporty production of Boldr. It is evenly matte in texture and has a warm tone without any glossy, reflective finish.
The aquatic-oriented piece features a matching dial with large circular and rectangular hour markers that have a three-dimensional appearance. There is a discreet date window at 6 o’clock, and both hands and hour markers are fully lumed for enhanced readability in low light.
It is powered by the Swiss Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, a solid workhorse with 26 jewels that offers a power reserve of 38 hours.
Conclusion
The recent resurgence of the use of bronze, particularly in the making of dive watches, is becoming a mainstream choice. Bronze cases are still flying below the radar (when compared to ceramic and titanium), but Panerai did a great job of starting the current wave. It is quite surprising that many high-end watchmakers haven’t explored the use of bronze extensively.
However, collectors searching for bronze watches have a ton of options than ever before. Very broadly speaking, brands with a rich nautical heritage might have a bronze watch in their fold. In any case, it’s great to see bronze offerings from the likes of Omega and Longines.
Harnessing the power of the sun. It’s something even ancient civilizations like the Egyptians and the Greeks considered. They designed their architecture to follow the pattern of the sun to maximize natural light and heat.
It was the 19th-century discovery of the photovoltaic effect by French physicist Becquerel that would lay the groundwork for modern solar technology and the work of later scientists like Einstein, who won a Nobel Prize in 1921 for furthering the understanding of solar energy and, of course, the scientists at Bell Laboratories in the 1950s (and others) that got us to where we are today.
Facing environmental challenges and an energy crisis, many have turned to solar as a solution. Time and battery technology will tell if that’s realistic, but no one can argue that solar tech has come a long way. Whether it’s powering homes, cars, or watches, the modern tech is pretty impressive.
In this article, we’ll examine 20 of the best solar watches, from affordable to luxury brands and everything in between. Whether you’re driven by environmental virtues, cutting-edge technology, or convenience, there’s something here for everyone and every budget. We’ve thoroughly examined each of the timepieces we’ve selected to consider solar efficiency, aesthetics, consistency, ruggedness, luxury, and value for the money.
For those that want style and sustainability without compromise, let’s discover some remarkable watches that blend nature’s power with the best of human engineering and artistry.
About Solar Watches
Sustainability. It’s a corporate buzzword and a powerful movement. Not easy being green? No more. Kermit’s day has arrived. Everyone wants to be seen as “green”. Solar watches are one way to show you care for the planet.
They are also a modern technology alternative to quartz battery-powered watches. Let’s further explore the history of solar watches and why they’ve become a popular choice among watch experts and technology enthusiasts.
A Brief History
Solar watches have their roots in the space race. The final frontier of outer space demanded a way to power watches in remote places. The Hamilton Watch company was actually the one to pioneer this technology in the mid-1950s.
Hamilton’s Ventura model was powered by a miniaturized solar cell and really pushed the technology forward. However, this model wasn’t entirely solar-powered, as it required a battery to store the power.
By the 1970s and 80s, watch companies like Seiko and Citizen found ways to refine the technology and mass-produce it for the public.
Solar Advantages Over Quartz Movements
Green: Using the abundant power of the sun as the energy source for a timepiece requires significantly less reliance on disposable batteries. Those batteries eventually end up in landfills and can be a potential hazard.
Convenience: With solar power, replacing your watch battery is unnecessary. This saves the consumer time and money.
Long reserves: Today’s solar watches have long power reserves that, once fully charged, can last for months, even in complete darkness.
Low maintenance: Solar watches are more energy efficient than battery-powered quartz watches, making the timepieces more reliable, less likely to fail for mechanical reasons, and less likely to be out of commission for repairs.
Accurate: Solar watches have proven to be just as precise timekeepers as quartz battery watches, making them reliable for both professional and daily use.
Wide-rangingstyles: Whether one is shopping for something modern, sporty, or classic and dressy, there’s a solar-powered timepiece out there to suit every need and taste.
Overall, solar watches have become quite popular, with the technology only getting better, more effective, sustainable, and more powerful.
What To Look For in Solar Watches?
One might understandably feel overwhelmed by the wide variety of solar timepieces on the market, and it can be difficult to sort through the blizzard of internet ads to determine the winners from the losers and which ones suit one’s specific needs best. That’s why we’ve done the research for you. We’ll detail all the critical things to consider when purchasing your next solar watch.
Build Quality
As with any quality timepiece, one should consider the materials used to make the watch. Materials like high-end stainless steel, ceramic, and titanium will not only be durable and scratch resistant but will last and, as a bonus, look the most luxurious.
Power Reserve
The top solar watches, once fully charged, can last for months, even in complete darkness. If you have professional responsibilities in the field or you lead an active lifestyle, you’ll want to consider a watch with a long power life without the need to constantly be recharged.
Solar Panel Location
Obviously, a solar panel on the case back would be rather ineffective. While I can’t imagine most watch engineers would make a mistake like that, be sure there’s a large panel on the dial or bezel of the watch. This way, you can be sure that it will harness the most solar power.
Water Resistance
Make sure the timepiece you’re considering is at least water-resistant to 50 meters. This will ensure your watch is protected against rain and accidental splashes. It will also allow one to wear the watch in more active settings, including swimming and snorkeling (for a dress watch, 30 meters is acceptable).
Readability
Look for a timepiece that has a clean, readable layout and strong luminous hands and markers so everything is clear and visible even in the lowest light conditions, including total darkness.
The Best Solar Watches
With that said, here’s a list of the 20 best solar watches you can buy today at different price points:
1. BERTUCCI DX3 FIELD REF. 11015
The Bertucci DX3 Field is a simple, no-nonsense, classic three-hand field watch design. The watch case is made of polycarbonate, which is a pressed plastic that’s quite rugged. It’s not stainless steel or titanium, but it will do the job.
The case has a sleek matte black finish and measures 40mm; it’s 11mm thick and 49.5mm from lug to lug. The bezel is smooth and fixed. The dial is also a matte black with painted white numerals and white sword-style minute and hour hands. The hands and indices are properly illuminated and visible even in low-light settings.
The timepiece offers a Japanese quartz movement powered by solar and is water resistant to 50 meters, which is suitable for swimming and snorkeling; however, this watch is not to be used for diving. The face of the timepiece is protected by an R-Type mineral crystal, which doesn’t have the scratch resistance and strength of a sapphire crystal. But this watch isn’t expected to last generations, and the reasonable price reflects that. It is paired with a black nylon strap with a simple tang buckle.
The G-SHOCK is all business. To my eye, there’s nothing especially beautiful about this watch, but if you’re looking for a solid, reliable digital watch, this will deliver. The case is some type of resin, as is the fixed bezel, which is a smooth matte black. Resin is perfectly capable but not as durable as stainless steel. When would this matter?
It probably doesn’t matter for most purposes, but resin isn’t as capable of withstanding underwater pressures as other materials like steel or titanium. The case is a hexagon-type shape, measures 46.7mm by 43.2mm, and sits on the wrist at 12.7mm thick. The watch weighs 51.7 grams. The dial is black with a digital display that can brighten in low-light situations.
The timepiece has some solid specs. It’s shock-resistant and capable of 200 meters of water resistance, which means it’s rugged and ready for those with an active lifestyle and quite capable in most diving situations. The face is protected by glass, which isn’t as durable as sapphire crystal.
The watch is powered by the sun, and its battery, when fully charged and in power save mode, can last in total darkness for up to 22 months. The timepiece is accurate to 15+/- seconds per month. The watch includes features like a 12 or 24-hour format, date and day display, and stopwatch capabilities. All this is paired with a resin strap and a tang buckle.
Price: $150
3. TIMEX EXPEDITION NORTH FIELD SOLAR REF. TW2V41600JR
TIMEX has been a widely known and trusted watch brand since 1854. The Expedition North Field is an excellent timepiece for the price that offers everything a budget-conscious buyer would be looking for. The stainless steel, brushed, and bead-blasted case measures 41mm, sits on the wrist at 12mm thick, and has a lug width of 20mm.
The watch has a smooth steel bezel and a black dial with numerals, except at 12 o’clock, where it’s marked with a triangle. At 3 o’clock, there’s a date window for added functionality. The dial has sword-style hour and minute hands and a gray seconds hand. Of course, the hands and markings are luminescent in the dark. The face is protected by sapphire crystal. TIMEX describes the watch design as military-inspired and made for the outdoor enthusiast.
The timepiece is solar-powered and will last for 4 months on a single charge. The watch offers a screw-down caseback and crown, making it water-resistant to 100 meters. The timepiece is paired with a stainless steel bracelet with a fold-over clasp for added security. It’s a solid, clean everyday watch. If you’re looking for something with solar, but a classic steel design, this watch hits all the right marks for the right price.
Citizen delivers on a good dive watch that’s paired with their eco-drive technology. The stainless steel case with alternating gear-edged bezel measures 44mm, sits on the wrist at 12mm thick, and has a lug width of 20mm. The unidirectional bezel has a blue aluminum ring insert with white markings. The blue dial is also clean and easy to read. The dial has a stubby sword-style hour and minute hands.
The hour and seconds hand are gray, and the minute hand is orange. The indices are white and a mix of round and triangle-like shapes. There’s a date window at 4 o’clock. The hands and markings are luminescent in low lighting. The face isn’t protected by sapphire crystal, which is disappointing, but it’s impact and shatter resistant.
The watch is powered by Citizen’s eco-drive technology, which means it can be charged by any light source and will last up to six months in the dark on a full charge. The timepiece has a screw-down crown and case back and is water-resistant to 200 meters. All this is paired with a blue polyurethane strap with a steel tang buckle. It’s a good-looking, performing driver with some of the best solar tech on the market.
Price: $375
5. ORIENT NEO 70’S SOLAR PANDA CHRONOGRAPH REF. WV0041TX
If you’re in the market for a “panda-style” chronograph that’s solar-powered at a steal of a price, this is it. The Neo 70’s Solar Panda Chrono by Orient has all the right stuff and checks all the right boxes. The stainless steel case measures 42mm and sits on the wrist at 11.7mm thick. The watch looks more expensive than it really is, which is something Orient does well.
The milky-white dial features three registers, two large and one small, with black backdrops. The silver hands and silver-lined black indices look sharp. There’s a date window at 4 o’clock. The face is protected by a mineral crystal.
The watch is powered by solar and, with its screw-down crown and caseback, is water resistant to 100 meters. The timepiece offers hacking seconds and is paired with a stainless steel bracelet with twin push button release, fold over clasp. It seems this model has been discontinued by Orient but is still available through other retailers.
This Citizen Eco-drive is a handsome, classic dress watch. The timepiece has a stainless steel case that measures 40mm. The case is relatively thin and should easily slip under a dress shirt. The fixed bezel is smooth and paired with a light ivory dial with silver hands and indices. There’s a day display window at 12 o’clock and a date window above 6 o’clock. Even with all these functions, the dial is simple, clear, and easy to read.
The timepiece is powered by a caliber J800 movement, which is charged by Citizen’s Eco-drive. The watch is splash resistant, with a 30 meters rating. The timepiece also features 12 and 24 hours and has an eight-month power reserve. All this matched with a brown leather strap with stitching and a tang buckle. It’s a handsome watch that competes very well with other brands like Seiko and Hamilton.
The Edifice Sospensione is perfect for the guy whose Corvette dream is out of reach and who is willing to settle for a sporty watch. The black and red design looks like a sports car. It comes in a few different configurations, some more gray, some more red. The case and bezel are made of carbon and stainless steel, and the watch’s measurements are 51mm by 47.8mm by 10.8mm.
For a beefy sports watch, it’s relatively thin. The dial offers a mix of digital and analog displays, with white sword-style hands and white indices. There’s a date and day window at three o’clock, along with other registers.
The timepiece is solar-powered and can run for 7 months on a single charge, with typical daily use and 18 months in total darkness in “low power mode”. The watch is full of features, including stopwatch functions, a countdown timer, an alarm, and 38 timezones (displaying the city name), to name a few. It’s accurate to within 15 seconds +/- per month. The watch syncs with Bluetooth and offers smartphone link capabilities, and even displays battery levels. It’s water resistant to 100 meters and fitted with a black resin strap with a tang buckle.
Price: $300
8. SEIKO PROSPEX SOLAR DIVE WATCH REF. SNE585P1
Seiko makes a number of stylish divers, and the Propex Solar Dive is no exception. The stainless steel case measures 38.5mm and is thin enough to slip under a dress shirt. The unidirectional bezel is blue with a circle pattern.
The dial is a sunray blue with syringe-style hour and minute hands and a lollipop-style seconds hand. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock. The white indices are a mix of circles, rectangles, and a triangle at 12 o’clock. The case has a satin finish with some contrasting polishing.
The watch is powered by Seiko’s caliber V147 movement, and its battery is solar-powered with a reserve of 10 months. The screw-down crown and caseback offer water resistance of 200 meters, which is perfect for most divers. The face of the timepiece is protected by a sapphire crystal and is fitted with a stainless steel three-link bracelet with a tri-fold clasp for additional security. This watch reminds me of a Tudor Black Bay but for a fraction of the price.
Price: $495
9. CITIZEN PROMASTER NIGHTHAWK REF. BJ7138-04E
This timepiece puts out military vibes. I can see this on the wrist of some special operative behind enemy lines. Citizen says the Promaster Nighthawk was inspired by stealth helicopters. The two-tone steel and black case is made of stainless steel, measures 42mm, and has a lug width of 22mm.
The smooth fixed black bezel paired with the busy black dial is sleek, and while there’s a lot of information displayed, the time is easily readable. The hands are white, and there’s a 24-hour hand in the style of an airplane on a runway. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock.
The watch is powered by Citizen’s B877 movement, which is charged by their Eco-Drive solar technology. The timepiece is water-resistant to 200 meters. It features dual time, date, and slide rule. The watch is fitted with an olive green leather strap, inspired by military uniforms, with a tang buckle. This is a cool, sporty, casual watch that looks great on the wrist of a commando or just a world traveler or a weekend warrior with an active outdoor lifestyle.
The Arnie is another sharp solar diver from Seiko. The timepiece is all black and steel with an analog and digital dial. The stainless steel case, with its lightweight high-tech protective shell, measures 47.8mm, sits at 14.4mm thick, and 51.3mm from lug to lug. The dial features sword-style white hands and white indices. There’s a digital display showing the time at the top of the dial. The black unidirectional bezel has a gear-style edge.
The watch is powered by Seiko’s caliber H851 movement and is solar-powered with a six-month reserve. The timepiece is full of functions from power reserve display, local time indication, stopwatch function, and alarm.
The watch has a screw-down crown, pushers, and screw-down caseback. It’s water resistant to 200 meters, suitable for scuba diving. The timepiece is fitted with a black silicon strap with a tang buckle. The Arnie has great 80s-style diver vibes and is worth considering.
Price: $525
11. CASIO FULL METAL G-SHOCK GM-B2100 REF. GM-B2100D-1A
Casio is known more for their functionality than their sense of style, but they’re trying hard with this model to do both. The G-Shock full metal is pretty similar to the other G-Shock we reviewed, just in an all-steel style. The octagonal bezel and case is the design feature that first grabs one’s attention.
That stainless steel case measures 49.8mm by 44.4mm by 12.8mm. It’s a chunky, sports-style watch design. The black and gray dial, hands, and indices offer a sleek look. The dial is a combination of analog and digital. The style cues with this model take one back to the 80s with the dimpled band and bezel shape.
The Full Metal G-Shock, as the name implies, is shock resistant and durable. It’s water resistant to 200 meters. The mineral glass protecting the face is disappointing, but these watches aren’t expected to last multiple generations like a luxury watch might. On the bright side, this timepiece has many useful functions and features.
The watch is solar-powered and will run for about 7 months on a single charge, with typical daily use and 18 months in total darkness in “low power mode”. It offers time, date, 38 timezones, an alarm, a battery level indicator, and Bluetooth, among other functions. The timepiece is fitted with a dimpled stainless steel bracelet with a fold-over clasp.
Price: $550
12. CITIZEN WORLD CHRONOGRAPH ATOMIC TIMEKEEPING REF. AT8020-54L
I’ve always thought these Blue Angels Citizen watches were pretty darn cool and packed with tech. They have busy dials, which I don’t typically favor, but there’s something about the design I like. It’s sporty and attractive.
The stainless steel, two-tone case, steel, and blue Ion-plated bezel measures 43mm, has a lug width of 25mm, and sits on the wrist at 12.5mm thick. These atomic and radio timekeeping watches tend to be thick, but this one is pretty reasonable. The dial is blue with white, silver-lined, sword-style hour and minute hands and a yellow seconds hand. The dial has three registers, and there’s a date window at 3 o’clock.
The timepiece syncs to the Atomic Time Clock for accuracy and has Atomic Timekeeping tech that is synced with 26 time zones. The watch is powered by Citizen’s H800 Eco-Drive movement, which is charged by the sun. The timepiece also offers a day, date, and power reserve indicator.
The watch is water resistant to 200 meters and is fitted with a stainless steel three-link bracelet with a fold-over clasp. There’s also a titanium version of this model, which offers the same features, but in a lighter weight package, but of course, that’s more expensive.
13. JUNGHANS 1972 CHRONOSCOPE SOLAR REF. 14/4202.44
Junghans is a German watchmaker that may or may not be known to Americans. They’re the official timekeeper of the Munich Games, and they make some excellent watches. The Junghans 1972 Chrono Solar was designed to capture the spirit of those 1972 games. It does just that. It’s sporty, streamlined, and like a well-conditioned athlete, there’s not much “fat” on this watch.
The timepiece’s stainless steel case measures 43.3mm and sits on the wrist at 11.6mm thick. The bezel and case have a satin finish and a sculpted look. The bezel is black and matched with an anthracite-gray sunray brushed dial. There’s a red outer ring with a tachymeter scale. The dial has three registers and gray hour and minute hands, plus a red seconds hand. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock.
The watch is powered by a solar-quartz movement, the caliber J622.50. It’s water resistant to 100 meters, with a screw-down caseback, a guard-protected crown, and a sapphire crystal covering of the face. The timepiece features a stop function with 1/5 seconds, date, and alarm. The watch is fitted with a stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp. All around, this is a really nice watch that could function as a sports watch and in dressier situations.
This is another “panda-style” chronograph from Seiko with all the right style cues. The stainless steel case measures 39mm, which is a real sweet spot for most wrists. It sits on the wrist at 13.3mm and 45.5mm lug-to-lug. The case has a satin finish and looks great with the black tachometer bezel.
The white dial is clean and crisp, with three registers with black backgrounds, along with black hands and indices. There’s a date window at 4 o’clock. This watch has some Omega Speedmaster vibes, and there’s nothing wrong with a tribute, especially at a reasonable price.
The timepiece is powered by Seiko’s caliber V192 quartz-solar movement. It’s loaded with features like a 6-month power reserve, power indicator reserve, date, small seconds, chronograph up to 60 minutes, and a 24-hour hand. The face of the watch is protected by sapphire crystal. The screw-down caseback adds to the seal, and this timepiece offers 100 meters of water resistance. It’s paired with a stainless steel bracelet with a tri-folding clasp.
Price: $675
15. JUNGHANS FORCE MEGA SOLAR REF. 18/1000.00
This is another modern-style timepiece from Junghans. The all-black design is slimming and classy, but this watch isn’t just great to look at, it’s also got all the right chops. Made of a polished ceramic, the case measures 40.4mm and is ultra-thin at 8.2mm thick.
The dial is both analog and digital, with a black outer rim with white-gray markings. The inner dial is gray with vertical lines. The hour and minute hands are gray, and the seconds hand is black. There’s a large digital date window at 6 o’clock.
The face of the watch is protected by a sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 50 meters. There’s even a handsome globe design on the caseback. This timepiece is packed with tech, with a radio-controlled solar movement, for the most accurate timekeeping. Functions besides date and time include a power reserve indicator for up to 21 months and easy time adjustment in the app. The watch is fitted with a black synthetic rubber strap with a titanium tang buckle.
Price: Approx. $1,250
16. TISSOT T-TOUCH CONNECT SOLAR REF. T121.420.47.051.00
This is a super-fly watch from Tissot, the Swiss watch company. It’s both classy, sporty, and bold. I could see this timepiece worn with casual attire or, if you’re gutsy, even a suit. The anti-magnetic titanium case measures 47.5mm, 23mm lug width, and sits pretty high on the wrist at 15.3mm.
This watch is a big boy, and while one could wear it with a suit, in my opinion, it won’t slide under a dress shirt. But why would you want to hide this beautiful, modern timepiece anyway? Despite being a larger watch, it’s light at 92 grams, thanks to its titanium build.
The shiny black ceramic bezel features a compass and other markings in white. The black dial is both analog and digital. The hour and minute hands are white, lined in black, with a red triangle tip on the minute hand. The seconds hand is red and in the shape of a T for Tissot T-Touch. The indices are white, and there’s a large digital display on the lower half of the dial.
The watch is full of the latest tech and features. The movement is a Swiss-connected quartz solar movement. Despite all the digital functions, the timepiece is water-resistant to 100 meters. The face of the watch is protected by sapphire crystal.
The functions include an altimeter, compass, perpetual calendar, alarm, multiple timezones, automatic daylight saving time, timer, chronograph split, chronograph lap, chronograph log book, step counter, calorie tracker, temperature, weather, etc. There are simply too many functions to list. The timepiece is paired with a red synthetic silicone strap with a tang buckle. If you’re looking for a Swiss watch that straddles the line between classy and modern with all the latest tech, I think you’ve found it.
Price: $1,095
17. JUNGHANS MAX BILL MEGA SOLAR REF 59/2022.46
This model is another great example of the modern, minimalist designs Jughans is known for. This design captures the essence of the Bauhaus style, from its simplicity to its lightweight and gentle touch on the skin. The timepiece also puts out vintage, 60s German vibes to my eye. The titanium case measures 38mm and is ultra-thin at 9mm.
The domed sapphire crystal adds to the vintage feel. The dial is white-gray with gray hands and markings. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock and white luminescent dots at 3, 6, 9, and two dots at 12. The caseback includes a map of the world.
The watch is powered by a connected radio-controlled solar movement J101.85 and is water resistant to 50 meters. Functions include the date, time adjustment at the crown or the MEGA App, and seconds display in half-second motions. The timepiece is fitted with a titanium Milanese bracelet with a folding clasp.
Price: Approx. $1,450
18. TAG HEUER AQUARACER PROFESSIONAL 200 SOLARGRAPH REF. WBP1180.BF0000
This TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional looks old school, but under the hood, it’s all modern tech. The octagonal grade 2 titanium bezel with its coin edge look is complemented by a sunray, brushed black dial with a horizontal line pattern. The titanium sandblasted case measures 40mm, which is a comfortable, versatile size. The silver-lined white hour and minute hands and indices are complemented by a turquoise pop of color on the seconds hand. There’s a functional date window at 3 o’clock.
The screw-down caseback displays a compass symbol. There’s a screw-down steel crown and a water resistance of 200 meters. The watch has solargraph technology and features a Swiss solar-powered movement. The timepiece is fitted with a sandblasted 3-link grade 2 titanium with a folding clasp, push buttons, and micro-adjustment.
Price: $3,050
19. SEIKO ASTRON GPS SOLAR SSH109
This Seiko Astron GPS Solar offers a fusion of a classic steel sports watch with technology, and the design captures that well. The titanium case measures 42.7mm, sits at 12.2mm on the wrist, and is 48mm from lug to lug. The face of the watch is protected by sapphire crystal. The dial has four registers, one smaller, with a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock. The dial has silver sword-style hands against a gray-blue, to my eye, and has a fine sandpaper finish at the center.
This timepiece is powered by a GPS solar movement with a 6-month reserve and 2 years in power save mode. The watch is water resistant to 100 meters and has a plethora of options. Options include perpetual calendar, world time function in 39 time zones, dual-time function, day display, power reserve indicator, GPS signal reception function, and automatic daylight savings, among others. The timepiece is fitted with a titanium bracelet with a three-fold clasp and push buttons.
Price: $2,500
20. CARTIER TANK MUST LARGE SOLARBEAT™ REF. WSTA0059
If you love the Cartier Tank Must style, but you’re looking for a solar-powered timepiece, you’re in luck, Cartier has just what you’re looking for. The WSTA0059 has the iconic steel rectangular case you know and love. The case measures 33.7mm by 5.5mm by 6.6mm. This is a thin, classic dress watch. The white dial has black Roman numerals and markings with sharp blue hands that match the blue tip of the crown.
The face of the timepiece is protected by synthetic sapphire glass. The movement powering the watch is quartz solar. The watch is water resistant to 30 meters, which is splash resistant and perfectly acceptable for a dress watch. All this is paired with a black leather strap with a tang buckle. This timepiece simply exudes class but is unique with its cutting-edge solar tech under the hood.
Retail Price: $3,700
21. Garmin Forerunner 955 Solar
One of the best watches in the marathon training and triathlon training communities, the Garmin Forerunner 955 features a fitness tracker with a beautiful color display and a GPS mapping system that ensures you never get lost during your training session. It also features advanced readings on stats like VO2 max levels, sleep quality, and training readiness. The best feature is the gigantic battery life, with up to twenty days of uninterrupted wear in smartwatch mode, assuming the sunlight conditions are correct. Being a smartwatch, the full-color display is crisp and legible, being extremely easy to read in direct sunlight so that you can follow the GPS with no complications.
The case size is 46.5mm, made with a silicone strap, and a fiber-reinforce bezel, with a 14.4mm thickness. For smartwatches, it’s pretty slick looking with a simple, black, rubbery texture with some fine-tuned details along the casing. I can definitely see this piece drawing major attention from any fitness fans out there.
Price: $600
Parting Thoughts
There’s a large and growing market for solar-powered, radio, and GPS-linked watches that are full of features and have the ability to connect with our smartphones and online worlds. We hope this article has been informative and useful in your search for the right solar watch for your needs.
There’s a wide array of timepieces in this space, from budget options to sporty and dressy possibilities from higher-end, luxury watchmakers and everything in between. We think these are 20 of the best on the market today, and one can’t go wrong with any of them.
Long before planes were invented, humans dreamed of flying. Centuries ago in Greek mythology, there lived Icarus, son of Daedalus, a mythical inventor who constructed wings out of feathers and wax. The wings were to aid the duo in flying out of Crete, where they were held captive by King Minos.
Taking to flight with unfathomable excitement, Icarus soon forgot his father’s warnings and flew too close to the sun. His wings melted, and he died, but the myth implied that man’s innate desire to fly would be impossible.
Yet the desire lived on, and on December 17th, 1903, the Wright brothers invented the world’s first successful motor-operated airplane. The wish to soar through the atmosphere was now granted, but another need was created, namely a timepiece to help the pilots keep track of their flying time.
Positioned more as statement pieces today than critical tools used in the air, pilot’s watches were launched to serve as timing devices for aviators. Nothing best captures the intrigue and excitement of a navigator’s lifestyle like a pilot’s watch.
This is why we put together a comprehensive list of the best pilot watches to satisfy your aeronautical fantasies. Enjoy!
About Pilot Watches
During the early decades of aviation, there was no such thing as aeronautical timing devices. Pilots desperately needed a timer because the timing was a vital element in nearly every aviation-related calculation.
To meet this pressing lack, timing devices were created to help pilots with simple calculations and keep accurate flight times. The first was a small gold watch with a square face and exposed screws, constructed by Louis Cartier.
Aviation watches are considered to be one of the first real onboard “computers” for pilots. They often feature specific characteristics and functionalities that are useful for flight-related activities.
All pilots’ watches are designed with aviators in mind; thus, the dials have a highly legible display, large enough to be read when flying.
Many pilot’s watches include chronograph complications, which enable pilots to measure elapsed time for various tasks, such as flight calculations and navigation.
The pilot’s watch saw innovations to make an aviator’s job even easier, and many of them on the market today incorporate useful features.
These include dual time zone displays, integrated slide rule bezels or E6B flight computers, and anti-magnetic and shock-resistant constructions to help protect the timekeeping accuracy of the watch.
While not a universal feature, many pilot’s watches offer water resistance to varying degrees. This is useful for pilots who may encounter wet conditions or work around water bodies during their operations.
History of Pilot Watches
The history of pilot’s watches dates back to the early days of aviation when reliable timekeeping was crucial for navigation and flight operations.
According to connoisseurs, the story begins in 1904 when Brazilian pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont asked his friend Louis Cartier to design a watch specifically for his aviation needs.
The innovative Cartier came up with a wristwatch that featured a square case with the unmistakable sapphire cabochon crown, a large dial with Roman numerals, and a simple design.
The World War began in 1914 and ushered in major changes in aviation. The demands of military aviation during World War I led to the development of dedicated pilot’s watches. The British Royal Flying Corps issued watches to their pilots featuring large, easily readable dials and robust construction.
The growth in pilot watches escalated, and during the 1930s and World War II, German watchmakers such as A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, and Stowa produced pilot watches known as “Fliegeruhren.” Alongside timekeeping, pilots required watches with additional features for navigation. Chronographs, which included stopwatch functionality, became popular among aviators.
Brands like Breitling and Longines produced chronograph watches with various scales and additional subdials for measuring elapsed time, calculating distances, and performing other calculations.
Today, pilot’s watches continue to be extremely popular not only among pilots but also among watch collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate their functionality, aesthetics, and historical significance.
The Best Pilot Watches
Seiko Pilot Chronograph SNN241
Seiko’s contribution to the aviation industry has been relatively minor; however, not including a watch from the Japanese giant watchmaker would be a transgression. There may not be tons of dedicated pilot watches from the brand, but the SNN241 meets and exceeds the criteria for an aviation watch.
Behold one of the best watches available in the sub-$150 price range! If you’re a fan of classic pilot watches and looking for a no-nonsense watch with suitable military vibes, look no further.
Seiko offers this solid, value-priced chronograph that is large and easy to read in a 42.6 mm stainless case with a thickness of 11 mm. The tactical watch has a clean brown dial with contrasting white numerals and indices, offering excellent readability.
There are minute markers around the outer rim of the dial, and the watch also has two sub-dials for measuring chronograph functions and a date window at 6 o’clock. It is powered by the Seiko Caliber 7T94 and is worn on a comfortable contrast-stitched leather band with buckle closure.
AVI-8 Timepieces Gutersloh (ref. AV-4088-22)
AVI-8 was founded in 2012 by a combination of pilots, watchmakers, and engineers. The watch brand is known for its unique and functional design, which draws inspiration from aircraft and aviation history.
At about $160, the Gutersloh Ref. AV-4088-22 is a stunning, straightforward timepiece that pays tribute to Britain’s distinguished military aviators who gave their lives for a worthy cause during WWII. It is presented in a stainless steel case that measures 43mm across and is 12mm thick.
The dial features an army-blue color which is a distinct addition that stands out from the majority of pilot watches with black or blue faces. The design elements are inspired by the aircraft’s cockpit instruments and aesthetics, so you will find two recessed subdials at 9′ and 3′, enclosed by cockpit instrument-style frames.
There is a highly legible dial with bold applied Arabic and baton indexes, all coated with Swiss lume on a matte canvas. There’s also a date window at 6 o’clock and an additional orange-colored hour hand to indicate time in a different time zone.
Orient Pilot’s Sports Watch (ref. RA-AC0H04Y)
Orient has a timepiece for everyone. From elegant dress watches to rugged divers and, of course, pilot’s watches, the brand is getting increasingly popular in the watch community. At $200, the Ref. RA-AC0H04Y is an effortlessly functional pilot’s watch that offers exceptional value for money.
The 42.4mm stainless steel case is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters. The layout of the beige dial emphasizes easy readability and a tool-like feel. The dial has a large minute ring on the perimeter with a distinctive black print.
There is a date display located at the third hour, and the face of the watch is protected by a mineral crystal. The watch is worn on a stylish all-occasion brown leather strap with contrasting light stitching. It is powered by the Orient caliber F6722, an in-house self-winding automatic movement with 22 jewels and a power reserve of 40 hours.
Citizen Chandler Pilot Chronograph (ref. CA0621-05L)
Citizen is an absolutely legendary watch manufacturer that has been around for over 100 years. Known for its high-quality, technical and affordable timepieces, the Japanese watch company is respected for adding eco-mindfulness as a core value.
Since it launched its first light-powered timepiece with proprietary Eco-Drive technology in 1976, thousands of exceptional watches with outstanding build quality and innovative technology have followed.
The Pilot Chronograph Ref. CA0621-05L is a reasonably priced aviation watch that stays true to original pilot watches used during World War II. The stainless steel case is relatively large at 42mm in diameter and features flat protruding lugs, which will make it feel a bit bigger than it is.
With 100 meters of water resistance and a screw-down crown, this timepiece can be worn comfortably in the air, at ground level, and underwater for activities like swimming. The iris blue dial has a lot of information but is highly legible and uncluttered. The watch features Citizen’s Eco-Drive technology, which works by running off light as its power source and retails for $230.
Citizen Promaster Altichron (ref. BN5058-07E)
Honoring the world of pilots and aviation is the Promaster Altichron Ref. BN5058-07E. Many pilot watches are purely technical, and only a few standout pieces can combine technicality with pure aesthetics as this one does.
Encased within a 47 x 11mm stainless steel case with prominent pushers and crown, the Altichron over delivers the attributes required for a top-notch aviation watch. First off, the titanium bezel features a compass ring, and on the inside, you’ll find an altimeter, which measures altitude.
The dial is pretty busy, no doubt, but this is a function-packed watch that was designed to work well up to 32,000ft above sea level. Plus, it has a water-resistant rating of 200 meters. Talk about cool!!
On the black dial with red accents, one finds large SuperLuminova-coated Arabic numerals, large sword-shaped hands, and a date window at 3 o’clock. Altogether, the watch is all about functionality and readability. Like most watches from Citizen, the Ref. BN5058-07E is powered by the brand’s Eco-drive solar movement. It retails for $595 and comes fitted with a black rubber strap.
Headquartered in the southwestern German town of Pforzheim, Laco is generally regarded as the originator of the German Pilot Watch. The brand, which was founded by Frieda Lacher and Ludwig Hummel, has been an established part of the German luxury watch scene since the 1920s.
Inspired by pilot’s and deck watches from the 1930s, the Augsburg 42 Ref. 861688.2 is a robust aviator watch presented in a sleek brushed 42mm case with a solid screw-down crown. The dial is pretty straightforward with a simple matte black finish. It is adorned with rectangular minute indices and Arabic numerals for marking the hours.
The hands and indices are legible even in low light thanks to ample punchy-green lume. Protecting this dial is a double-domed sapphire crystal. It retails for $420 on the brand’s website and comes fitted with a brown calfskin leather strap.
Seiko Flightmaster SNA411
Imagine trying to navigate a mountain range in a blizzard without a reliable watch. From long-haul flights to snorkeling trips, the Seiko Flightmaster SNA411 is the ultimate adventurer’s watch.
Whether you’re a pilot or aviation enthusiast searching for an accurate, sturdy, reliable, and affordable watch that looks good, too, this military-grade and rugged timepiece is your best bet. The Seiko Flightmaster SNA411 is an impressive chronograph watch presented in a finely brushed case that measures 42mm across and has a thickness of 13mm.
The stainless steel case is matched with a 20mm wide bracelet that flawlessly combines polished and brushed finishes. It also has three sub-dials for compass, stopwatch, and alarm, which makes the dial pretty interesting to stare at. The quartz-powered watch has been discontinued but is readily available in the secondary market for around $480
Atmoss SR-01 Everyday Pilots Watch
Based in Brisbane, Australia, Atmoss is a relatively new kid in the vast world of watchmaking, but it is in no wise the least! If you want a sleek pilot’s watch that combines next-level durability with avant-garde technology, this is your best pick.
What better person to construct a pilot’s watch than a man with a history of flying low-tech planes himself? I’m talking about Warrick Bettany, the man behind Atmoss Watches. The innovator has been pretty busy rolling off some of the best aviation watches that preserve the old-school tradition of getting things done analogically.
First things first, the case of the Everyday Pilots Watch has a diameter of 41mm, a thickness of 10.5mm, and a lug-to-lug of 48.5mm. The functionality of the watch begins with the two matching logarithmic scales or slide rules — one on the bezel and one on the chapter ring on the outer perimeter of the dial.
The pure aesthetics of the white dial with blue and red accents add a touch of aviation-inspired romance. Keeping the price of this elegant watch down to $480 is a solid movement; the Japanese Miyota 9039 with a modest 42-hour power reserve. The watch has a water-resistant rating of 100 meters and is worn on a metal bracelet or FKM rubber strap.
Bulova Pilot A-15 (ref. 96A245)
If you’re looking for a graceful aviator’s watch with a timeless design and thick feel, the Pilot A-15 Ref. 96A245 comes highly recommended. On request from the US Army Air Force Air Technical Service Command, the original A-15 was initially designed in 1943 to solve very critical flight-related problems for pilots at the time. Unfortunately, the watch never made it out of the testing phase for some reason or another.
The project was thus suspended, but 76 years later, Bulova deemed it necessary to release the watch to the general public. The Ref. 96A245 is a reinterpretation of the A-15 “Elapsed Time Watch” and is presented in a 42mm stainless steel case with narrow lugs and three crowns at the 2, 3, and 4 o’clock positions. The crown at 2 rotates the internal bezel measuring elapsed time, while the four o’clock crown controls a second-time zone or elapsed hours.
The dial might seem a bit complex at first glance since it features about four concentric rings, but everything is neatly arranged and harmonious. The watch is powered by the Miyota 82S6 movement with 21 jewels and a 42-hour power reserve. It is worn on a brown leather strap and retails for about $650.
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Chrono Quartz (ref. H76522131)
Hamilton is an American watchmaker, now owned by Swatch Group. The brand has been an iconic name in the field of military and aviation-inspired timepieces with a long tradition of delivering quality and precise ‘trench’ watches. In 1994, Hamilton was named the official wristwatch supplier for the American Armed Forces. The former glory the Swiss watchmaker had has been revived in the Khaki Aviation collection today.
Modeled after some of the famous pilot’s chronographs produced by Hamilton for the British Royal Air Force in the 1970s, the Ref. H76522131 is a watch that captures the daring spirit of a pilot like no other. The case is made of stainless steel and has a large notched crown flanked by two pump pushers.
It measures 41mm across with a thickness of 12.47mm, so it’s a no-nonsense watch that is slightly cumbersome. The dial is clean, uncluttered, and highly legible, with luminous markers and a bi-compax display. It has a water-resistant rating of 100 meters, and the dial is well protected with a sapphire crystal, so you can trust this watch to accompany you on your daily missions. It is powered by a quartz movement and retails for about $750.
Yema Flygraf Pilot M2 (ref. YFLY2020-CAS)
Yema is a French watch brand that is seriously underrated for one simple reason; it does not have the words ‘Swiss Made’ plastered all over the dial of its watches. This is very disheartening as the France-based company has consistently demonstrated remarkable mastery in watchmaking since its founding in the 1940s.
The Flygraf collection turns timekeeping into a worthy expedition for those interested in utilitarian watches for the outdoors. All the models in this collection are designed and constructed by brand and professional aerobatic pilot Sammy Mason.
With a vintage-inspired design arising out of military field watches from the Second World War, the focus is obviously on aviation themes. The Ref. YFLY2020-CAS is a watch with a clear spirit of adventure and comes in a brushed 316L stainless steel case that measures 39mm across. A sapphire crystal protects the matte gray dial, adorned by Arabic numerals and indexes, all treated with Superluminova BGW9.
The watch is water resistant to a depth of 300 meters, so you can confidently take command of both sky and sea! It retails for about $750 and is powered by the YEMA2000 in-house caliber with a power reserve of 42 hours.
Farer Morgan Pilot Watch
British watch brand Farer was established in 2015 with one simple goal; to make affordable automatic watches for all. If you’re looking for an affordable purpose-driven timepiece befitting a fighter pilot, the Morgan Pilot Watch is just the watch you need.
Farer might not be a name you hear quite often, but the fast-growing brand is capturing millions of enthusiasts around the globe thanks to its superlative build quality and tried-and-true aesthetics. The aviation-inspired watch comes in a highly polished stainless steel case that measures a fitting 39.5mm in diameter with a height of 12.5mm (including domed sapphire crystal).
The matte black dial has two rings for speedy reading, with outer minute markings and the hours on the inside. Farer is known for combining bold colors and contrasting textures beautifully. The Pilot Watch has hour/minute alpha-styled hour and minute hands outlined in Royal blue, while the sweeping second hand tip is finished in beacon red.
Encased in a soft-iron Faraday cage is the SW200-1 caliber. It is an anti-magnetic automatic movement that delivers up to eight times the standard level of anti-magnetic protection. The watch is fitted with an over-stitched American Horween leather strap and retails for approximately $990.
Vaer A12 Dirty Dozen
Founded in 2016 by Ryan Torres and Reagan Cook, Vaer is a watch brand that does everything right. The California-based watchmaker has a strong reputation for producing high-quality tool watches with impressive design elements. Dirty Dozen is a group of legendary watches made within the last two years of World War II.
Twelve watch manufacturers were tasked with supplying these military watches for the British Army hence the name. Vaer decided to pay homage to this military timekeeping icon by releasing this functional, attractive, and utilitarian watch.
Encased in a sleek 36mm 316L stainless steel case dominated by brushed surfaces, the A12 Dirty Dozen is an everyday utility watch designed to not be too cumbersome or clunky on your wrist. With a tightly sealed case back and large screw-down crown design that maintains an airtight seal, a water resistance rating of 100 meters is guaranteed.
The watch is incredibly slim and comfortable on the wrist, boasting a thickness of about 10 mm. According to the brand, the dial features up to 25 layers of SuperLuminova, with a lume performance rating of 8/10. The watch retails for $899 and is powered by a Swiss-made Sellita SW260-1 automatic movement with a power reserve of approximately 42 hours.
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer (ref. H76205530)
Stand by for take-off with Hamilton’s versatile companion. This one is a true pilot’s watch for adventurers and explorers seeking a timepiece with great accuracy.
The Ref. H76205530 draws inspiration from the Model 23, a cutting-edge pocket navigational chronograph pocket watch made for the US Army Air Forces during WWII. The watch is presented in a 38mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 11.4mm and a lug width of 18mm.
As you’d expect from a military reissue, the dial is ultra-legible numerals with Arabic numerals, cathedral-styled hands, and a railway track outer scale. The face of the watch has a sandpaper-like finish that gives the timepiece a luxurious touch. It is protected by the highly scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and matched with a calf leather strap.
On the inside, you’ll find Hamilton’s caliber H-10 with a 3Hz beat rate and a remarkable power reserve of 80 hours. The watch is water resistant up to 100 meters and retails for about $1000.
Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind Day Date Auto (ref. H77785733)
The Khaki Aviation X-Wind (please do not say ‘ex-wind’, it’s pronounced ‘crosswind’) is probably the first drift-angle calculating timepiece. If you’re just a watch enthusiast like me, you’ll probably not care so much about this function. However, the crosswind feature is useful for pilots as it enables them to accurately calculate and record crosswind components with the internal rotating bezel.
The Ref. H77785733 comes in a PVD-coated stainless steel case that has a diameter of 45mm and a thickness of 12.8mm, so yeah, this is not for the faint-hearted. The dial has a lot going on, but there’s a harmonious symmetry interplaying between all the components. Bold Arabic numerals in white generously coated with Super-LumiNova make time reading seamless even in the dark.
The sword hands and day-date window at 9 o’clock also keep the dial looking pretty cool and balanced. The entire watch has a black glossy appearance and comes with prominent crowns on both sides. The X-Wind Day Date Auto is powered by Hamilton’s caliber H-30 with a power reserve of approximately 80 hours. It retails for $1,335 and is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters.
Stowa Flieger Classic Sport 43mm
German luxury watchmaker Stowa has been on fire lately. If you’re looking for a watch that can go anywhere and do anything, this is the one. Since 1937, the brand has been producing classic watches in the style of Bauhaus. Flieger or B-Uhren watches were specially designed for German armed forces (the Deutsche Luftwaffe) tasked with air defense.
The watches were designed to be the most legible timepieces on earth while offering top-notch robustness and accuracy at the same time. Luckily for you, a fat wallet or giant’s wrist isn’t a prerequisite to secure the look and feel of a Flieger, as Stowa presents a faithful interpretation of the B-Uhren watches for about $1,500. The sports watch is encased in an excellently finished 43 mm stainless steel case with a height of 12.8 mm.
With a water resistance of 200 meters, you can confidently take this watch straight from the skies to the oceans. The breathtaking matte black dial is flawlessly executed and decked with temperature-blued steel hands with a generous coating of C3 Super Lumi-Nova. The watch is powered by the Sellita SW215-1 mechanical movement with a power reserve of 42 hours.
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Converter Auto Chrono (ref. H76746140)
Hamilton has contributed a great deal to the aviation sector by creating precision watches for professional pilots for over a century. Between 1965 and 1976, the brand manufactured almost 40,000 wristwatches for the British military. When I think of Hamilton, my mind immediately jumps to the robust instruments for professionals, such as the X-Wind timepieces supplied to air racers.
The Khaki Aviation Converter Auto Chrono continues the brand’s history of serving the flying community well and is just the watch you need to keep up with your inexhaustible lust for aeronautical adventure. The stainless steel case measures 44mm across and has a thickness of 14.6mm, so now you can have a look-good watch peeking out from under your dress shirt.
The most notable feature of this watch is the slide rule bezel, also known as the “logarithmic bezel”. This feature was a crucial tool for pilots who needed to perform basic calculations involving multiplications, divisions, exponents, roots, or logarithms.
The Converter bears the spirit of those instrument watches from the 1940s but adds a good dose of futuristic aesthetics, as can be seen in its gorgeous blue dial that evokes visions of clear skies. It retails for $2,300 and comes equipped with the H-21-Si movement with silicone hairsprings for increased performance and accuracy.
The Oris Big Crown Pro Pilot was first released during the early decades of aviation, one year before World War ll began. Since the second world war was mostly fought in the air, the demand for pilots’ watches skyrocketed, and Oris, founded about 30 years prior, stepped up to the challenge.
The watch was a flight instrument with a highly legible dial, robust movement with accurate timing, and a large crown of about 8mm to aid operation with gloves on. The Ref. 01 748 7710 4164-07 5 22 14FC bears the iconic design elements that distinguished the first Big Crown Pro Pilot.
It comes in a 45mm case equipped with a screw-down crown (100 meters) and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating inside. The lug width is 22mm, and the watch is matched with a comfortable olive textile strap with stainless steel folding clasp.
The black dial features a GMT function that allows the wearer to track time in two different time zones simultaneously. It also has a subsidiary dial for the seconds at 9 o’clock and large Arabic numerals and hands coated with Superluminova BG W9. A see-through mineral glass caseback reveals the Oris 748 caliber, which is based on the SW 220-1. This automatic movement has 28 jewels, beats at a rate of 28’800 vph, and provides a power reserve of 38 hours. Enjoy this Swiss-made luxury for $2,500.
Sinn 144 St Sa Chronograph (ref. 144.066)
To not include a watch from German watchmaker Sinn would be a sin (sorry too tempting). Not only have pilot watches been part of the Sinn’s repertoire for over five decades, but the brand was also founded in 1961 by flight instructor and pilot Helmut Sinn!
The luxury watchmaker is renowned across the globe for making expert pilot’s watches that can withstand the harshest and most extreme conditions in the skies, on land, and deep in the ocean. It’s not just the day-date display and chronograph function that sets it apart.
This watch is equipped with a unique Ar-Dehumidifying Technology and lubricant-free anchor escapement that enhances functional reliability and freedom from fogging. The 41mm x 14.2 stainless steel case is topped with sapphire crystal glass in front and a transparent case back, also made of sapphire crystal.
The killer watch comes with a waterproof and pressure-resistant rating of 200 meters and combines a tachymeter and pulsometer scale instead of a rotatable bezel. A new 144 St Sa Chronograph on a leather or silicone strap costs around $2,400, while one on a stainless steel bracelet demands around $2,600.
Junghans Meister Pilot (ref. 27/3794.00)
Find yourself a more enchanting pilot’s watch; I’ll wait. German brand Junghans has been creating durable mechanical cockpit clocks since the early 20th century. If you are a hardcore adventurist seeking a reliable and elegant pilot’s watch to help you keep your eye on the prize, the Ref. 27/3794.00 is your best bet.
The Meister line is the top dog of the brand’s offerings, and though it was initially lined up with dress watches, the brand decided to ditch the status quo with some welcome additions. Pulling inspiration from control panel instruments that the Junghans manufactured for airplanes and airships in the 1930s, the Ref. 27/3794.00 is a classic mechanical pilot’s watch with a unique twist.
The watch is accurate, reliable, and extremely functional, with a beautifully sculpted case measuring 43.3mm in diameter and 14.4mm. The stainless steel case is DLC coated with scalloped grooves on the side and a bi-directional turning bezel. The brown-gray lacquered dial is highly legible and is protected by a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on both sides. The watch is powered by the J880.4 movement with 38 hours of power reserve and retails for approximately $2,800.
This is a pilot watch that embodies everything precision. It boasts of a legacy that spans over a century and comes in collaboration with Air Zermatt. The watch functions as a wrist-, cockpit-, and table watch.
Having a touch of exclusivity it is limited to only 1,999 pieces, it features a bi-directional turning flange for convenient countdown recording. The watch comes with a black dial housed within a stainless steel case with PVD black coating with a measurement of 46mm.
It is powered by an H-31 automatic movement and boasts a 60-hour power reserve. The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal ensures durability, while the black calf leather strap is fastened by a pin buckle. The watch is pegged at $3,295.00, as it exemplifies the perfect fusion of functionality and craftsmanship.
TAG Heuer Autavia (ref. WBE5116.FC8266)
This is a vintage-inspired luxury chronograph watch that combines a retro flair with advanced technology, creating a truly remarkable accessory. It comes with a 42mm steel case and a gradient smoked blue dial.
The watch houses the Caliber 5 movement which ensures impeccable accuracy. Its brown calfskin strap pays homage to the brand’s aviation heritage, while the bidirectional turning bezel, made from ceramic, adds a modern touch to the classic design.
The TAG Heuer Autavia has an “orange peel” texture, complemented by Super-LumiNova-treated silver-toned numerals and hands. When you flip the watch over, you’ll see the iconic engraving of an airplane propeller inside a steering wheel. The TAG Heuer Autavia is a complete leather strap timepiece priced at $3,500. The watch is considered the perfect blend of heritage and performance
Longines Avigation Type A-7 (ref. L2.812.4.53.2)
The Longines Company is rooted in the watchmaking tradition. It’s no surprise they crafted the Longines Avigation Type A-7, as a testament to their commitment to excellence. The watch commands instant attention with its seamless elegance.
Measuring 41mm in diameter and 14.10mm in thickness, the stainless steel watch showcases a black dial adorned with silvered polished hands. The timepiece is powered by automatic movement with a 60-hour power reserve.
The Ref. L2.812.4.53.2 was designed with great attention to detail such that its brown alligator leather strap with white stitching adds a touch of warmth and refinement. Additionally, it comes with a steel triple safety folding clasp and push-piece opening mechanism. At $4,570, this charming watch offers you the perfect blend of heritage and technology to command the skies.
The Breitling Aviator 8 Automatic 41 is a pretty cool watch that would make an excellent choice for fashion-conscious adventurers.
The Ref. A17315101B1A1 comes in a sleek 41mm case that has been finished to the highest sheen. The dial is enchanting with its luminous-filled hands and Arabic numeral hour markers to ensure easy readability.
It is powered by the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 17 automatic movement. Additionally, it offers precise timekeeping with a 38-hour power reserve. The watch is fitted with a stainless steel bracelet that has a folding clasp and a safety latch. Expect to shell out approximately $3,150 for a new piece.
The Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph is a masterpiece pilot’s watch renowned for anyone looking for an enduring companion. The watch demonstrates Montblanc’s commitment to tradition and storytelling.
The Ref. MB117836 has a 42mm case with a satin finish that strikes the right balance between retro and futuristic aesthetics. The black dial has a bi-compass counter at 3 and 9 o’clock, which exudes contemporary allure but also evokes a warm vintage charm.
The watch comes with bi-pushers for seamless activation of the chronograph, while its automatic, self-winding MB 25.11 movement ensures precision. It is water-resistant up to 100 meters and is mounted on a beige leather strap. If you wish to own this timepiece, you should be ready to part away with at least $5,400.
Fortis Flieger F-43 Triple-GMT (ref. F4260000)
Fortis is a brand that has a legacy rooted in space exploration. The independent Swiss watchmaker has accompanied astronauts to achieve horological milestones for nearly a century. As early as 1994, the brand was selected to supply precision watches for the Russian space program ROSCOSMOS.
The Ref. F4260000 is crafted for pilots and comes with a titanium case and bracelet, housing a Swiss mechanical movement with a 70-hour power reserve. Its GMT function allows for tracking a second-time zone, while its COSC certification ensures time accuracy.
The dial is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and the markers and handset are lumed to enhance legibility. The watch comes with a 43mm case diameter and is considered a robust timepiece fit for any adventure.
Get ready to embrace the spirit of exploration with the reliable, durable, and fortified Fortis Flieger F-43 Triple-GMT. The watch can be gotten from the brand’s website for $5,507
This pilot watch is a timepiece that embodies the adventurous spirit of the Longines brand. Boasting a rich heritage of legendary pioneers in their conquest of air, land, and sea, the brand drew inspiration from its remarkable history to birth the Longines Spirit Flyback.
The watch features a 42mm stainless steel case, a bi-directional rotating bezel with a ceramic insert, and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. The sunray dial is adorned with applied Arabic numerals and PVD bronze-colored hands, all illuminated by Swiss Super-LumiNova.
A transparent sapphire crystal offers a breathtaking view of the automatic Caliber L791. The movement boasts a monocrystalline silicon balance spring with a power reserve of up to 68 hours. The watch is available for around $4,500.
Bremont Martin-Baker MBII
In collaboration with Martin-Baker, a renowned British aviation company, Bremont flexes its muscles in horological expertise with this exceptional timepiece. The MBII is a symbol of resilience and was designed to withstand rigorous testing, including Live Ejection Testing and Extreme Temperature Endurance.
Its contemporary design features sleek numerals and a bronze-colored ‘military challenge coin’ on the case back, representing camaraderie and service. It is powered by a modified caliber 11 1/2″ BE-36AE automatic chronometer movement that keeps it precise and dependable.
It features a 43mm hardened stainless steel case that is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters. The contemporary dial has a clean look with Super-LumiNova coated indexes and hands that ensure clear visibility. It is further protected by a domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal that provides durability. Prices begin at $5,470.
IWC Mark XX (ref. IW328201)
The Mark XX is regarded as a perfect fusion of heritage and innovation. IWC is a renowned luxury watch brand established in 1868 that has consistently pushed the boundaries of watchmaking. The Ref. IW328201 is a testament to the luxury brand’s legacy.
It has a sleek 40mm stainless steel case and a captivating black dial; this watch exudes understated elegance with luminous hands and markers that ensure easy readability in any lighting. The watch is powered by the in-house IWC caliber 3211, a highly accurate and robust movement that boasts an impressive 120-hour power reserve.
It comes with a black leather strap which adds a touch of versatility, but no, it’s not a dress watch. You can purchase it for $6,050 from the brand’s website.
Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter (ref. BR0394-SW-CE/SRB)
Bell & Ross is a luxury watch brand renowned for its instrument watches designed for professionals. Inspired by aeronautical tools, the Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter is a timepiece that seamlessly blends functionality and style.
Limited to just 500 pieces, this watch showcases the power of the chronograph complication in the world of sports. It comes with the iconic “circle within a square” design, just like the emblematic cockpit clocks from the 1930s.
The matte black ceramic case measures 42mm in diameter and is 12.8mm thick, making it perfect for daily use. It has a captivating multicolor dial coupled with a sophisticated chronograph, which provides athletes with vital information during their physical activities.
The watch is crafted with precision and boasts double-weighted hands for optimal readability and two additional dial counters for enhanced functionality. Additionally, its water resistance threshold is up to 100 meters and will set you back $5,800 at the retail store.
If you’re daring and resilient, the Avenger B01 Chronograph 45 by Breitling is for you. Its robust 45mm stainless steel case, striking blue dial, and a choice of stainless steel bracelet or military leather strap qualify this timepiece as a symbol of strength. The watch was designed for adventurers who crave adrenaline.
Additionally, the Avenger B01 Chronograph 45 comes with a rugged bezel and glove-friendly grip pattern on the crown and pushers. It has a self-winding mechanical movement, the Breitling 01 caliber, with a 70-hour power reserve capacity.
The watch’s chronograph function, luminous numerals, and a water resistance of 300 meters add to its value. It measures 45mm in diameter and 15.7mm in thickness; the Avenger B01 Chronograph 45 is the perfect companion for the classic man. This limited edition timepiece can be yours for $7,500 and is considered an investment in both style and adventure.
Zenith Pilot Automatic (ref. 03.4000.3620/21.I001)
ZENITH is reputed for its pursuit of precision and exploration. Little wonder they introduced a timepiece that invites you to soar through the open skies. It comes with a 40mm steel case and an oversized crown, blending the brand’s aviation heritage with a contemporary touch. The black dial is adorned with luminous Arabic numerals and guides you through the dark with clarity.
The watch comes with interchangeable black Cordura-affect rubber and brown calfskin leather straps, giving you the flexibility to personalize your style effortlessly. The watch is powered by the El Primero 3620 automatic high-frequency manufacture movement with a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. The Zenith Pilot Automatic watch is priced at $7,500.
Cartier Santos Large (ref. WSSA0018)
Inspired by aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Santos Ref.WSSA0018 embodies the spirit of adventure and impeccable craftsmanship. The watch comes with a stainless steel case that measures 39.8 mm in diameter and 9.08 mm in thickness. The Santos showcases a silver-opaline dial adorned with Roman numeral hour markers and sword-shaped hands.
It is powered by an automatic movement, the caliber 1847 MC, which offers precise timekeeping with 23 jewels and a 42-hour power reserve capacity. The watch has a steel bracelet with the “SmartLink” adjustment system for a personalized fit. The Ref.WSSA0018 also includes an interchangeable calfskin strap. You can indulge in the luxurious lifestyle of those who own a Santos watch by shelling out $9,400.
Behold the Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition, a watch that honors its iconic ancestor with an unwavering commitment to detail. Breitling is a brand celebrated globally for its outstanding contribution to the aviation sector. In the 1930s, the Swiss Marque produced an aviator chronograph that helped pilots calculate elapsed time.
The brand here resurrects the essence of the original Navitimer from 1959 with a narrative of historic elegance. When you cop this watch, you get for yourself a 41mm stainless steel case, which mirrors the dimensions of its vintage muse with a height of 12.9mm. An alluring all-black dial reigns supreme with tone-on-tone small second, 30-minute, and 12-hour chronograph counters.
The Ref. 806 1959 is shielded by a gracefully domed Plexiglas and is powered by the COSC-certified hand-wound Breitling Manufacture Caliber B09. The robust movement exudes accuracy and reliability while boasting an impressive 70-hour power reserve. The watch is secured by a sleek black leather strap and is priced at $9,050.
After 70 years of captivating hearts, the Navitimer returns with a touch of modernity. Featuring a sleek profile, a domed crystal, and a lustrous interplay of polished and brushed metal elements, the B01 Chronograph 43 defines the collection’s renewed allure.
The dial shines in a captivating shade of black while the cherished AOPA wings once again grace the 12 o’clock position. It is encased in 43mm stainless steel and is powered by the reliable Breitling B01 movement. This self-winding mechanical wonder boasts a remarkable 70-hour power reserve capacity.
With its bidirectional slide rule, 1/4th-second chronograph, and water resistance of up to 3 bars, the Navitimer is ready for any adventure. You can embrace its legacy and its spirit of flight for $9,700.
IWC Big Pilot 43 Spitfire (ref. IW329701)
The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire is a timepiece that combines military heritage with contemporary style. IWC is known for its history of crafting watches for military pilots since the 1930s and has created remarkable watches inspired by its iconic designs.
The Ref. IW329701 comes in a durable titanium case that measures 43mm in diameter and 14.4mm in height. Its sapphire crystal and water resistance of up to 100 meters ensure its resilience. Powered by the Caliber 82100 movement, this watch offers precise timekeeping with a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour.
The legible dial pays homage to its military roots, while the brown calfskin strap adds a touch of elegance. Embrace the spirit of adventure with the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire for $8,950.
Rolex Air King (ref. 126900)
With a 40mm Oystersteel case and a sleek black dial, the Air King Ref. 126900 flawlessly combines aeronautical heritage with modern elegance. The dial features navigational time readings, large numerals at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, and the iconic Air-King lettering from the 1950s.
Crafted with corrosion-resistant Oystersteel, the watch is built to last and features an Oyster bracelet for durability and comfort. Powered by the Manufacture Rolex Caliber 3230, the Air-King provides precise timekeeping with a 70-hour power reserve.
Its scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and water resistance of up to 100 meters means you can take this beauty straight from the skies to the oceans. The highly legible Chromalight display shines with long-lasting blue luminescence, so this watch can be easily worn in a variety of scenarios. The luxury chronometer-certified watch is priced at $10,130.
Breitling Super AVI B04 Chronograph GMT 46 P-51 Mustang (ref. AB04453A1B1A1)
Breitling’s history is intertwined with the world of aviation. The Super AVI P-51 Mustang is inspired by a famed aircraft built by the North American Aviation Department in the 1940s.
The watch features a rugged 46mm case with an oversized crown and knurled bezel for optimal grip, even with gloved hands. Its dial features large Arabic numerals for excellent legibility, while the 24-hour marking on the inner bezel and the red-tipped GMT hand enables effortless tracking of a second-time zone.
Offering an impressive power reserve of 70 hours is the COSC-certified in-house movement, the Caliber B04. It is fitted with a stainless-steel bracelet and retails for $11,100.
IWC Big Pilot (ref. IW501001)
The Big Pilot Ref. IW501001 is a contemporary Illustration of the antique “B-Uhr” used by German pilots during WWII. The luxury watch is crafted in a round, entirely brushed stainless steel case with an oversized onion-shaped crown engraved with the IWC logo at 3′.
The watch’s face has a black metallic sunburst appearance that serves as a high-contrast background for the printing of the Arabic numerals, minutes track, and calendar indication. The mechanical self-winding 52110 movement with 31 jewels offered an impressive 7-day power reserve.
The watch comes with a black calfskin leather strap and a tang buckle, ensuring both comfort and durability. You can get the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Ref. IW501001 for $10,965 from the brand’s website.
IWC Pilot Timezoner Chronograph (ref. IW395001)
Perfect for frequent fliers, the Timezoner Chronograph Ref. IW395001 pays homage to the early days of aviation when pilots relied on their watches for navigation and timing. With a 45mm stainless steel case and a black embossed leather strap, this watch is perfect for fashion-conscious aviator enthusiasts.
The black dial features Arabic numeral hour markers and luminescent hands, while the 89760 automatic movement provides reliable precision with a 68-hour power reserve. With functions such as GMT, a second-time zone function, and a date display, this timepiece is tailored to meet the needs of pilots and international travelers. The dial is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and the watch is priced at $11,900.
Blancpain Air Command (ref. AC02-12B40-63B)
Famous for creating one of the most complicated mechanical watches on earth (the Blancpain 1735), Blancpain is a major player in the aviation watch market. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer supplied American military pilots with tactical watches in the 1950s, and the Air Command was an official military aviation watch with the Colombian Air Force.
The legendary aviation watch is reborn in the Ref. AC02-12B40-63B; a watch that ticks all the right boxes. Sophisticated aesthetics? Check. Superlative functionality? Tick. Legendary history and authenticity? Yup. Legibility and military vintage allure? Overdose!
At 42.5 mm x 13. 7 mm, the case of the watch is bulky for sure, but that’s the point. Every adventurer needs an eye-catching watch with a good measure of masculine impact. The dial is clean, uncluttered, and mesmerizing, with a 30-minute counter in a subdial at three o’clock and a 12-hour counter situated at nine o’clock. Expect to pay around $20,000 for a new Air Command Ref. AC02-12B40-63B with a blue leather strap.
IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar (ref. IW503605)
Since the dawn of aviation watches, right up to today, IWC has built a solid collection of some of the best pilot watches in the world. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer influenced the cockpit-instrument look of classic pilot’s watches during the 1930s, at least as far as aesthetics are concerned.
The Big Pilot collection is the brand’s flagship model with a diverse range of exceptional luxury pilot timepieces. The Perpetual Calendar Ref. IW503605 is a fashionable and functional timepiece with a stainless steel case that follows the Big Pilot’s Watch formula.
It is big at 46.2 x 15.4 mm, so again, we have a big watch that evokes a real appeal and makes you stand out from the crowd. Everything about this watch screams superlative quality. From the deeply knurled and oversized onion-shaped crown to the dark blue metallic sunburst dial, we are sold.
Command the skies with this enchanting pilot’s watch, which will integrate beautifully with business or casual attire and add a transcendent edge to any outfit. The watch is powered by IWC’s in-house caliber 52615 with 7 days or 168 hours of power reserve. It retails for $39,000.
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 (ref. 82035/000R-9359)
What would a list of the best pilot watches be without the Historiques American 1921? Vacheron Constantin is one of the oldest watch brands in the world, with an uninterrupted history of creating high-end watches since its foundation in 1755.
The Genevan brand created some supremely elegant timepieces for the American market in the 1920s, and the Ref. 82035/000R-9359 follows the spirit of the original very closely. The eccentric watch has a pink gold cushion-shaped case that measures 40 x 40 mm with a crown at the top right corner of the case.
The striking piece has a diagonal time display with Breguet-style hands and black-painted Arabic numerals that allows you to read the time without needing to turn your wrist. The brass dial is excellently executed with a railway dial train and a small seconds between 3 and 4 o’clock.
Visible through the transparent sapphire glass case back is the prominent Calibre 4400 AS with a power reserve of 65 hours. The watch is equipped with a half-matte dark brown alligator strap and retails for approximately $49,000.
Richard Mille RM 39-01 Automatic Winding Flyback Chronograph Aviation
Richard Mille is a brand that takes watchmaking beyond the 21st century with its technical wizardry. Famous for creating some of the world’s most complicated and idiosyncratic timepieces, the Swiss luxury watch company is one of the greatest Haute Horology players in the world.
The brand is also known to release technically-complicated racing machines for the wrist, so it’s no surprise that the Ref. RM 39-01 displays highly technical and extremely sophisticated features. Designed as a flight navigation instrument, the watch is encased in 50mm of titanium and is mounted on a black rubber strap.
The skeletonized dial is both stunning and sophisticated and houses different complications. The watch features a flyback chronograph, E6-B slide rule function, GMT/UTC function, and a semi-instantaneous date display below 12 o’clock.
Revealed through the porthole in the back is the grade 5 titanium RMAC2 caliber with its 55 hours of power reserve. At the time of writing this article, the watch is priced at $165,000, so yes, it was made solely for top collectors, but what harm is there in dreaming?
Patek Philippe Grand Complications Travel Time (ref. 5520P-001)
Founded all the way back in 1839, Patek Philippe is famous for creating some of the most highly coveted watches in the world. The prestigious luxury watchmaker has a history of horological brilliance for almost 200 years with a small (yet significant) contribution to aviation history.
The Ref. 5520P-001 is a decidedly masculine timepiece that reignites the doused flames of the brand’s Pilot range with a superlative technical appeal and elegance. The case of the watch is crafted from platinum, one most precious of the noble metals, and has a diameter of 42.2 mm with a height of 11.57 mm.
The design of the case seems overwhelming, with a crown at 4 o’clock and three additional pushers, but everything is symmetrical and well-balanced. The watch has a time-zone function that is especially useful in air travel, with a 24-hour alarm mechanism and a hammer that strikes on a classic gong.
It is powered by the self-winding caliber AL 30-660 S C FUS, a movement comprised of 574 parts. The watch is worn on a matte black calfskin strap and retails for approximately $220,000.
Aside from the stunning visual quality of the watch, the Skywalker X-33 from Omega is a standout pilot’s watch. This is for more than one reason, but to me, it’s the multi-function timekeeping and ESA certification.
The ESA certification highlights that the watch is tested and approved by the European Space Agency. For me personally, this says a lot about long-term reliability. Nevertheless, it didn’t take long for me to notice the intricacies of how this watch likes to keep time.
Even though the design also takes quite a bit of inspiration from astronauts, it’s become a pilot’s favorite over time. To many pilots, the multi-function design is one of the biggest selling points. I can say the same for myself, as the multiple time zones, missions and elapsed time, and perpetual calendar are great to have on the wrist.
On top of all the traditional features and modern tech in this watch, you get a seamless blend of analog and digital features. Keep in mind this doesn’t take away from the luxurious nature of this watch.
I had to try one for myself, and it was the feeling of luxury with the functionality of tech that made me want to keep it for the long run. You can find an Omega Speedmaster Skywalker X-33 for yourself, retailing at $5,900 at this time.
Conclusion
Pilot watches will always hold a special place in the hearts of professional aviators and aviation enthusiasts alike.
Not only because they take us back to the fascinating years of the past but also because they are a critical tool in a class of their own that will forever remain relevant.
Wristwatches have evolved significantly since their inception, with various shapes, designs, and functionalities captivating watch enthusiasts around the world.
Among these fascinating timepieces, the rectangular wristwatch stands out as a symbol of elegance and sophistication. In this guide, we delve into the history of rectangular wristwatches, tracing their origins and significant milestones, and explore a range of the top 25 watches available today to the discerning buyer.
About Rectangular Watches
The origins of the rectangular wristwatch can be traced back to the early 20th century. Prior to this era, pocket watches were the preferred timekeeping devices, with wristwatches being primarily worn by women as decorative accessories. However, the practicality and convenience of wristwatches soon caught the attention of men, leading to a shift in design and the emergence of new shapes.
Pioneering Designs
One of the earliest pioneers of rectangular wristwatches was Louis Cartier, a prominent figure in the watchmaking industry. In 1904, Cartier introduced the Santos-Dumont, named after the famous Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont.
This groundbreaking timepiece featured a rectangular case, making it one of the first commercially successful rectangular wristwatches for men. The Santos-Dumont’s sleek and geometric design set the stage for future rectangular watches to come.
Art Deco Era
The Art Deco movement of the 1920s and 1930s further popularized rectangular wristwatches. This era celebrated bold geometric shapes, clean lines, and a modern aesthetic, which aligned perfectly with the design philosophy of rectangular watches.
Art Deco-inspired timepieces featured rectangular cases adorned with intricate details, such as diamond accents, enamel work, and contrasting color combinations. These watches became symbols of luxury and refinement, appealing to fashion-conscious individuals around the world.
The Rise of Icons
In the mid-20th century, rectangular wristwatches reached new heights of popularity with the introduction of iconic models. One such timepiece was the Cartier Tank, introduced in 1917, which featured a rectangular case inspired by the shape of military tanks.
The Tank became synonymous with elegance and style, worn by influential personalities as wide-ranging as Jacqueline Kennedy, Princess Diana, Steve McQueen, and even Andy Warhol. Other renowned rectangular watches, such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso and the Patek Philippe Gondolo, solidified the rectangular timepiece as a timeless accessory.
Modern Interpretations
With the advent of modern technology and contemporary design trends, rectangular wristwatches have continued to evolve while retaining their classic allure. Luxury watch brands and independent watchmakers have embraced innovative materials, intricate complications, and artistic craftsmanship to create unique interpretations of rectangular watches.
These timepieces blend tradition with modernity, attracting a new generation of watch enthusiasts seeking distinctive aesthetics and exceptional craftsmanship.
Should You Buy A Rectangular Watch?
For the modern buyer, a rectangular watch is an attractive proposition on many levels. If you find yourself drawn to the aesthetic beauty of a timepiece, appreciate design outside the established norm, or overall enjoy the classic, confident look of a rectangular watch, it’s something to definitely consider.
Rectangular watches often attract buyers with a sense of style and flair and usually pair well with a suit or dress shirt. They’ll also add a touch of class and edge when paired with jeans and a T-shirt and look just as at home in sweatpants (it’s a vibe) as in a tuxedo.
Though capable as a “one-watch collection”, a rectangular watch may also work best within a rotation of watches for those seeking a less dressy feel and a steel bracelet (many rectangular watches are paired with leather bands, after all) every now and then. With all that said, let’s jump in.
The Best Rectangular Watches
1. Seiko SUP896P9
When deciding if a rectangular-shaped watch is for you, the Seiko SUP896P9 is an excellent option with its approachable pricing and idyllic sizing. Don’t be put off by the 28.1mm width (7.4mm thickness). Rectangular watches will often wear larger than their circular counterparts, contrary to what the measurements imply, and the Seiko is no exception.
With an attractive champagne-colored dial and gold case, the SUP896 is paired with a brown leather strap (20mm lug width), which can be swapped out for higher-quality options if desired. Most interestingly, the watch features Seiko’s V115 Caliber Solar Powered quartz movement, providing the convenience of a “grab and go” watch in that the user won’t need to set it up often.
And, if this is your first rectangular-styled watch in a larger overall collection, or perhaps your rarely worn dress occasion watch, that convenience will be appreciated as you won’t have to set it each time you decide to wear it.
Retail Price: $215.00
2. Void Watches V02MKII
Founded in 2008 by Swedish designer David Ericsson, VOID Watches is a brand that has successfully captured its own sense of individuality and design ethos in a short amount of time. In their own words, the V02MKII, for example, was “designed to be clever, not smart”, and features an unusual three-compass needle hand layout.
Time is told by matching the color of the hands with the same colored digit on the dial in such a way that “reminds us about the value and passage of time”, contrary to the ease and quickness of high legibility. Sized at 36mm in width, 8.4mm thick, and 42mm in height, the watch wears broadly across the wrist and is a certified conversation starter.
Retail Price: $265 – $295.00
3. Brew 8-Bit Rectangular Watch
A darling of the smaller independent brands in the affordable price point, Brew has become a household name in watch collecting circles due to their strong sense of design and thoughtful details often tied to founder Jonathan Ferrer’s interests (even the name is inspired by his love of coffee).
The 8-Bit Brew is no exception. Measuring 38mm in width, 10.4mm thick, and 41.5mm in height, the watch is an ode to classic 8-bit arcade games with a quirky use of video game-like fonts, colors, and even sub-dial second hands as a hybrid meca-quartz chronograph (“PRESS START” and “PRESS RESET” are cleverly engraved on the caseback for each respective pusher). When nostalgia and design collide, this is the watch for you.
Retail Price: $395.00
4. Bulova Frank Sinatra My Way (ref. 98A261)
Frank Sinatra is well known for wearing Bulova timepieces throughout his iconic life and entertainment career. Indeed, in the 1950s, Bulova was even a sponsor of the Frank Sinatra Show on television. Due to this famed partnership and pairing, Bulova continues to produce the “Frank Sinatra” special collection of watches to pay tribute to the man himself across various vintage-inspired Bulova designs in the modern day.
The “My Way” reference 98A261 is one such example, featuring a gold-tone rectangular case (29.5mm width, 9mm thickness, 47mm height) with the performer’s signature Fedora hat (on the gold-tone crown) and “My Way” stamped on the rear of the watch and deployant buckle. All these design flourishes aside, the 98A261 is an attractive gold-tone option with classic styling from a historic watch brand.
Retail Price: $550.00
5. Raymond Weil Toccata Rectangular (ref. 5425-PC-00300)
Founded in 1976, at the height of the “quartz crisis” of the Swiss watch industry, Raymond Weil has long sought to incorporate the beauty and art of music within his watchmaking designs. The Toccata Rectangular (reference 5425-PC-00300) is, in this vein, named after the Italian word for “touch”, based on rapid keyboard composition, which demonstrates the technique or ability of a skilled musician.
As such, the Toccata is a yellow gold PVD plated wristwatch (37mm width, 6.4mm thickness, 29mm height) with artistic bevels and punctuated black Roman numerals decorating a white dial in high contrast. The design is refined and suggests the same technique and ability of its namesake for the brand. Featuring the ease of a quartz movement, and a date wheel at 3 o’clock, the Toccata is additionally water resistant to 50m.
Retail Price: $1,150.00
6. Hamilton American Classic Boulton Small Second Quartz (ref. H13421611)
The Hamilton watch company was founded in 1892 in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. The brand played a significant role in the development of the American watch industry. Over the years, Hamilton became known for its precise timekeeping and innovative designs, earning a reputation as a respected and iconic watchmaker.
As an innovator in design, the Boulton line of watches was first manufactured in 1940, combining a uniquely American classic style with Art Deco, as characterized by the almost tonneau-shaped case’s curved lugs, and elegant elongated case (27.3mm width, 8.21mm thickness, 31.1mm height).
The watch features a small seconds hand subdial at the six o’clock position and is powered by a quartz movement. Despite the modern tech and construction, the Boulton has a classic look as if pulled out of your grandfather’s old drawer from decades ago.
Frederique Constant was established in 1988 by Aletta Bax and Peter Stas in Geneva, Switzerland. The brand quickly gained recognition for its commitment to classic and elegant timepieces at accessible prices. The brand’s passion for craftsmanship and attention to detail propelled its success, earning Frederique Constant a prominent position in the luxury watch market worldwide.
With the development of the Carrée, the brand chose to highlight the elegance of 1920s design, in line with this brand philosophy. Impressive case finishing and a blue guilloche dial at this level of execution are rare for the price point. And measuring 30.4mm in width, 9.71mm in thickness, and 33.3mm in height, the watch is indeed a modern, contemporary take and fit with clear echoes of the past in design. Finally, the timepiece is powered by an automatic SW-200 movement.
Longines, a renowned Swiss watchmaker founded in 1832, has a rich history spanning over 180 years. With a legacy of innovation and precision, Longines has become synonymous with elegance and performance. From pioneering advancements in watchmaking to iconic designs, Longines continues to symbolize timeless luxury and craftsmanship, and the DolceVita line of watches is no exception.
As an homage to “the sweetness of life”, the watch features softened lines and a billowing engraving radiating from the center of the silver dial. The Roman Numerals from one to twelve spanning the dial add a sense of classicism, in contrast to the quartz caliber L176 movement powering the watch without much use of effort on the wearer’s part. A classic option for the smaller to medium-sized wrist, measuring 23.3mm in width, 7.2mm in thickness, and 37mm in height.
NOMOS Glashütte is a German watch manufacturer established in 1990. In its relatively short history, the brand has made a significant impact on the watch industry. Known for their minimalist Bauhaus-like designs and in-house movements, NOMOS combines traditional craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics, garnering global recognition for their exceptional quality and modern timepieces, even garnering the admiration of industry legend Philippe Dufour.
At its core, the Tetra (reference 408) clearly expresses the clean, no-frills Bauhaus design. Sparing in busy detail, the watch is square-like in shape (29.5mm width, 6.3mm thickness, 29.5mm height to be exact), and one is drawn immediately to the clean dial decorated with sans serif numerals and a sparse second sub-dial register at six o’clock.
Don’t be fooled by the simple design; NOMOS manufacturing is Germanic in its precise execution and beauty underneath, with the in-house manual wound Alpha caliber providing up to 43 hours of power reserve on a full wind, finished to a high standard.
Retail Price: Starting at $2,080 (stainless steel back, leather strap)
10. Baume & Mercier Hampton 10528
Baume & Mercier, a distinguished Swiss watchmaker established in 1830, boasts a rich history of crafting exquisite timepieces. From its beginnings in the Jura Mountains to becoming a renowned international brand, Baume & Mercier has consistently upheld its values of tradition, innovation, and elegance.
Known for blending Swiss watchmaking expertise with contemporary design, the brand has garnered a loyal following. With a commitment to quality and a legacy spanning over 190 years, Baume & Mercier continues to create timepieces that embody timeless sophistication.
The Hampton 10528 is a handsome example of the brand ethos, featuring a rectangular case (31mm width, 48.1mm height), a small seconds sub-dial, and a date window at six o’clock. On the rear of the case, the automatic 27 jewel movement is visible, while mixed opaline texture and riveted black ruthenium indexes on the front side provide a confident, masculine look.
Oris, a Swiss watch company established in 1904, has a fascinating history rooted in its dedication to quality and precision. From its humble beginnings in Hölstein, Switzerland, Oris has become a renowned name in mechanical watches. Known for its functional designs and reliable movements, Oris has navigated the industry’s challenges with resilience.
Embracing their independence, Oris has consistently delivered timepieces that embody Swiss craftsmanship and offer exceptional value, earning the admiration of watch enthusiasts worldwide.
The Rectangular line of watches is heavily influenced by the Art Deco style, as evidenced by the case shape (25.5mm width, 38mm height) and dial design, with a railroad track-like design notating the seconds and minutes along the axis of the dial. The watch features a mineral glass case back, displaying the in-house Oris caliber 561 featuring time and date.
Retail Price: $2,050.00
12. Rado True Square Automatic Skeleton (ref. R27126012)
Rado, a Swiss watch brand founded in 1917, has a remarkable history of innovation and design. Pioneering the use of high-tech materials such as ceramic, Rado has consistently pushed boundaries in watchmaking. Renowned for their sleek and modern aesthetics, Rado timepieces combine Swiss precision with cutting-edge materials to create durable and distinctive watches that have gained global recognition and popularity.
The True Square Automatic Skeleton is such an example, with its monobloc 38mm width case (9.7mm thickness) made of polished white ceramic. The eye-catching R808 movement is skeletonized, with a yellow gold colored bridge and nickel-colored top plate contrasting the white vertical brushed background in a unique pattern that only Rado could conjure up.
For those looking for the classic shape of a rectangular case in completely modern high-tech execution, the Rado True Square Skeleton is your bet.
Retail Price: $2,800.00
13. Vieren Black Croc Leather Watch
Founded in Toronto in 2020, Vieren is a microbrand aiming to lead the next generation of watch-making and entrepreneurship at the helm of founder Jess Chow and creative director Sunny Fong (Winner of Project Runway Canada).
Chow, whose family holds over 40 years of luxury watchmaking history, is afforded direct access to a watchmaking studio in La-Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, allowing a bespoke-like level of customization and craftsmanship in each watch they produce.
The Black Croc Leather watch was designed to be a daily wearer, but its design is not of the ordinary variety. Inspired by leather as a material, the dial itself is an extension of the black croc leather strap, accentuated by light yet subtle execution.
Using leather as a dial material is no easy feat. It must be ultra-thin and finished meticulously to ensure proper form, function, and durability. The watch is sure to make a statement, yet it wears slim and comfortable on most wrists (27mm width, 9.2mm thickness, 41.5mm height).
Retail Price: From $1,950
14. Cartier Tank Must (ref. CRWSTA0041)
When speaking of rectangular watches, perhaps none is more prolific or enduring as the Cartier Tank. With a storied history dating back to 1917, the original Tank was inspired by the design of tanks used in World War I. A rectangular case, parallel lines, and a distinctive crown were the result of Louis Cartier’s imaginings.
Quickly becoming a symbol of elegance and sophistication in the following years and decades, the Tank collection has expanded to include various models and variations while maintaining its timeless classic aesthetic. In 2021, the Tank “Must” returned as a reinterpretation of the 1970s classic.
In particular, the Tank Must Large (reference CRWSTA0041) features a steel case (25.5mm width, 6.6mm thickness, 33.7mm height) with a high autonomy quartz movement inside and the iconic looks of the Roman Numerals circling the outer perimeter of the dial set against an iconic silvered dial with blued-steel sword shape hands—a classic for a reason and the true standard bearer of the style.
Retail Price: $3,100.00 (Leather strap)
15. Hermès Cape Cod 41mm
Hermès, the renowned French luxury brand, ventured into watchmaking in the late 1920s. Since then, their watches have blended Swiss precision with exquisite craftsmanship. With a focus on design, Hermès has created timepieces that embody elegance and style. Known for their iconic straps and distinctive dials, Hermès watches have established a reputation for combining timeless aesthetics with the brand’s legendary heritage of luxury and refinement.
The Cape Cod line of watches, and in particular, the 41mm, is one such execution. With a 33mm width and 41mm height, the case is most distinctive in its “wired” look, with the lugs on either side extending past the dial following the curve of a softened rectangular shape, evoking a strong sense of identity and design not seen with more traditional watchmakers who stick to the typical shapes and case aesthetic.
The sense of design continues with the Arabic numerals in a bold yet subtle font and a date feature on the three o’clock side of the dial, which does its best not to undermine symmetry with its use of a white background wheel. Powered by a Swiss-Made quartz movement, the watch is water-resistant to 3 bar.
Retail Price: $3,375.00
16. TAG Heuer Monaco x Gulf (ref. CBL2115.FC6494)
The Tag Heuer Monaco watch has a captivating history that began in 1969. It gained worldwide fame as the first square and water-resistant automatic chronograph watch. The Monaco then achieved iconic status when Steve McQueen wore it in the film “Le Mans”, epitomizing the look of the cool and sporty watch design.
Throughout the years, Tag Heuer has continued to evolve the Monaco, introducing various iterations and limited editions while retaining its distinct square shape and vintage-inspired design. Today, the Tag Heuer Monaco remains an emblem of daring innovation and timeless style in the world of luxury watches.
The Monaco X Gulf (reference CBL2115.FC6494), in particular, represents the historical relationship between Heuer and Gulf, merging the logos of both in its usage of blue tones and orange. As a winner of the “Iconic Watch Prize” of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve (GPHG) in 2022, this design sense has not gone unnoticed.
Design chops and accolades aside, the watch features the Caliber HEUER02 Automatic movement with 80 hours of power reserve for the automatic chronograph movement and is water resistant to 100 meters. A true combination of sport and elegant design.
Retail Price: $7,800.00
17. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds (ref. Q713842J)
In the annals of historic and trailblazing rectangular-shaped watch design, the Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) Reverso ranks right at the top with the Cartier Tank in historic importance and cultural legacy. Launched in 1931, the story goes that the Reverso was originally designed for polo players.
It featured a unique reversible case to protect the delicate dial during matches, with the user able to flip between either side of the case depending on usage. The Reverso’s Art Deco aesthetic and innovative concept quickly garnered attention.
Over the years, it has evolved into an enduring icon of horology, appreciated for its elegant versatility. The Reverso collection expanded to include various complications and designs while staying true to its signature reversible case.
Perhaps the truest to this original design is the Tribute Small Seconds (reference Q713842J), with its simplified focus on the small seconds and opaline dial (in contrast to the high-level complications featured on other models).
The rear of the case is left blank, enabling space for custom engravings to further personalize the watch for your own. Own the emblematic watch from “the watchmaker’s watchmaker”, with the JLC Reverso. (Case size 27.4mm width, 8.51mm thickness, 45.6mm height)
The history of Glashütte Original watches is deeply rooted in the German town of Glashütte, renowned for its horological heritage. Founded in 1845, the brand has endured tumultuous times, including wars and political shifts.
Despite these challenges, Glashütte Original persevered and established a reputation for exceptional craftsmanship and precision. Their timepieces feature in-house movements, showcasing their dedication to watchmaking traditions and technical prowess.
Today, Glashütte Original continues to create exquisite watches, embodying the spirit of German watchmaking excellence and timeless design. The Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date, as such, recalls the dynamism and gentle curves of the eponymous decade with unmistakable retro quality and character.
A sizable watch at 40mm in width, 14.1mm thick, and 40mm in height, it is also a capable one despite the fine level of finishing and chronograph functions, with a sporty 10 bar water resistance.
Technical features abound, with over 70 hours of power reserve and a display case back showcasing the in-house caliber 37-02 with hour and minute, stop second flyback chronograph, small seconds, 30-minute, and 12-hour counter functionality, alongside a Panorama date. A powerhouse in design, function, and capability.
Retail Price: $13,400.00
19. Piaget Emperador Black Tie (ref. G0A33070)
The history of Piaget watches began in 1874 when Georges Edouard Piaget established his first workshop in La Côte-aux-Fées, Switzerland. Initially known for producing high-precision movements, Piaget soon expanded into creating complete timepieces.
In the 1950s, they gained recognition for their ultra-thin watches, setting numerous records in slimness. Piaget’s expertise in watchmaking and jewelry led to the development of iconic models like the Piaget Polo and the Piaget Altiplano.
Today, Piaget continues to craft exquisite timepieces that blend technical mastery with artistic elegance, solidifying their position as a leading name in luxury Swiss watchmaking. Among such iconic models, the Emperador is a particularly handsome addition, with its Guilloche sunburst motif dial and elegant blend of curves and straight lines alongside the corners of the 18K rose gold case.
An 18K rose gold Piaget coat-of-arms adorns the dial, with a small seconds display positioned at ten o’clock and a power reserve indicator at the six o’clock position. (Measurements: 32mm width, 9.2mm thickness, 41mm height)
The history of H. Moser & Cie watches dates back to 1828, when Heinrich Moser founded the brand in St. Petersburg, Russia. Renowned for their exquisite timepieces, Moser watches became favored by Russian royalty and high society. After relocating to Switzerland in 1848, the brand continued to thrive.
Throughout the years, H. Moser & Cie has committed to traditional craftsmanship and innovation. Their watches feature sophisticated designs and intricate movements, combining technical expertise with understated elegance.
Helmed by Edouard Meylan, Moser of today often incorporates quirky details and conceptual design, of which the Swiss Alp reference 5324-1205 is no exception. A satirical take on a certain ubiquitous “smart watch”, the watch is rectangular in shape (38.2mm width, 44mm height), encased in a DLC steel case with an incredibly dark Vantablack dial (the darkest man-made material ever made) which can be compared to looking into a black hole.
A turning small seconds disk at six o’clock resembles a loading symbol of a digital device, and a power reserve indicator is displayed on the rear to keep the dial side altogether uncluttered. Limited to 50 pieces and long since sold out, one must look to the secondary market to obtain this prolific watch.
Retail Price: $45,000.00
21. Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 (ref. 82035/000R-9359)
The history of Vacheron Constantin watches is a remarkable journey that began in 1755, making it one of the oldest Swiss watch manufacturers in existence. Founded by Jean-Marc Vacheron, the brand quickly gained a reputation for crafting exquisite timepieces of exceptional quality.
Throughout the centuries, Vacheron Constantin has remained committed to precision, innovation, and artistic craftsmanship. Their watches have adorned the wrists of royalty, dignitaries, and connoisseurs worldwide.
With a rich heritage and a tradition of technical excellence, Vacheron Constantin continues to create timepieces that merge traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design, solidifying its status as a prestigious and revered name in the world of haute horology. The American 1921, in particular, reinterprets a model launched in 1921 for the American market during the so-called “Roaring Twenties”.
Upon seeing the watch, one is immediately drawn to the rotated dial alignment and crown at the top of the top right side of the pink gold case (40mm width, 8.06mm thickness, 40mm height). This diagonal reading of the time enables the wearer to read at a glance without needing to turn the wrist, and the black-painted Arabic numerals with small seconds at three and four o’clock provide an exquisite touch to an already attractively unique design.
Retail Price: $36,800.00
22. Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Blue (ref. 645.QL.7117.RX)
Hublot, a Swiss luxury watchmaker founded in 1980 by Carlo Crocco, has made a significant impact on the watch industry. However, it was under the leadership of Jean-Claude Biver in the early 2000s that Hublot experienced a transformative period. In 2005, Hublot introduced its groundbreaking and iconic timepiece, the Big Bang.
With its distinctive design, combining a bold and robust case with a fusion of materials, the Big Bang became an instant sensation. It symbolized the fusion of tradition and innovation, embodying Hublot’s philosophy of the “Art of Fusion.”
The Big Bang’s success propelled Hublot’s rise to prominence, solidifying its position as a trailblazing brand in the luxury watch market. In the Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Blue (reference 645.QL.7117.RX), we find a watch made of carbon fiber, blue composite material, and sapphire in typical Hublot skeletonized form. Sized at 42mm, the watch features a tourbillon movement along with hours, minutes, and power reserve functionality. A true mix of high horology complication with forward-thinking modern materials.
Retail Price: $100,000.00
23. Richard Mille RM016 Ultra Thin White Gold
Richard Mille, established in 2001, has quickly become synonymous with cutting-edge technology, avant-garde design, and exceptional craftsmanship in the years since its inception. Founded by Richard Mille himself, the brand pushed the boundaries of traditional watchmaking, incorporating innovative materials and high-tech advancements.
Among Richard Mille’s prolific collection is the RM016 Ultra Thin White Gold watch. Introduced in 2007, it exemplifies the brand’s commitment to precision and elegance. The RM016 features an ultra-thin white gold case, measuring 8.25mm thick (38mm width, 50mm height), showcasing Richard Mille’s mastery of slim watchmaking. The movement, crafted with meticulous attention to detail, ensures remarkable accuracy and reliability.
The RM016 Ultra Thin White Gold watch reflects Richard Mille’s dedication to merging technical excellence with sophisticated aesthetics. It embodies the brand’s philosophy of creating visually striking and exceptionally engineered timepieces, cementing Richard Mille’s position as a pioneer in modern luxury watchmaking.
Retail Price: $60,000.00
24. A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst (ref. 703.048)
Founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange in the town of Glashütte, the brand became renowned for crafting exquisite pocket watches. However, World War II and subsequent political changes led to the company’s closure in 1948.
It wasn’t until 1990, after the fall of the Berlin Wall, that Walter Lange, Ferdinand’s great-grandson, revived the brand. A. Lange & Söhne quickly reestablished itself as a German precision and craftsmanship symbol, crafting exceptional timepieces characterized by intricate movements, exquisite finishing, and timeless design.
The Cabaret line, in particular, was originally introduced in 1997 as the brand’s first rectangular watch but was discontinued in 2013 after poor sales performance. Revived in 2021 as a limited number of 30 production pieces, the reference 703.048 Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst is made of 950 platinum (29.5mm width, 10.3mm thickness, 39.2mm height), embellished in Art Deco-inspired designs such as smooth rounded corners and a stepped bezel.
An oversized date is featured at twelve o’clock, with a power reserve at four, running seconds at eight, and the enchanting tourbillon at six. All finished to the utmost degree of perfection, the hand engraving (tremblage) and black polish throughout the watch furniture, case, and dial is a triumph of watchmaking skill.
Retail Price: EUR 315,200 (limited to 30 numbered pieces)
When Yvan Arpa, founder and president of ArtyA, debuted the 3 Gongs Minute Repeater, Regulator, & Double Axis Tourbillon in 2016, it was most certainly the watchmaker’s most complicated watch ever. Encased in pink gold and titanium (measuring 47.3mm in width, 18.1mm thick, and 64.6mm in height), Arpa sought to expand his Son of Sound collection with a minute repeater.
Arpa wanted to amplify the sound of his movement and designed the main plate to resemble the Gretsch guitar, by which the sound is inspired. The minute repeater itself has three gongs. One to acknowledge system engagement, another for hours, another for the minutes, and two striking sounds for the quarter hours. As if the focus on sound amplification wasn’t enough, the sapphire back of the watch is designed to add volume to the sound and allow the tourbillon to turn on a secondary axis.
Customers at the time were able to work with the brand’s master watchmaker to further customize the tone of the sound, to fit their preferences exactly. As a work of art and sound, the 3 Gongs required over one thousand hours of hand work to produce and assemble.
Retail Price: 480,000 CHF
26. Patek Philippe Gondolo Collection (ref. 7041R)
As mentioned earlier, you can’t talk about rectangular watches without mentioning the Gondolo Collection from Patek Philippe. The brand name speaks for itself, but the 7041R from the collection stands out as a personal favorite.
It holds a signature Gondolo look in the case and dial but offers a unique twist of its own at the same time. When it comes to the specs, it’s the rose gold case and classic aspects of the watch that catch my eye the most.
Of course, the watch is much more than that, featuring a precise Caliber 215 PS movement, a finely grained dial, and more. I also have to mention the diamond-set flange here, which includes 108 diamonds and reflects from every angle.
I’m also a huge fan of the sizing for the case. This may have been just the luck of the draw, but the 30 x 33.8mm case feels like the perfect fit. You also get the benefit of a sapphire crystal case back, which highlights both durability and beauty.
Between the detailed craftsmanship and stylish beauty, this is a timepiece that’s meant to last more than one lifetime. I believe this is truly reflected in every aspect, from the engineering and materials all the way down to the asking price.
Retail Price: $35,000 to $40,000 USD
In Conclusion
The history of rectangular wristwatches spans over a century, marked by innovation, artistic expression, and enduring elegance. From the pioneering designs of Louis Cartier to the iconic status of the Cartier Tank, these timepieces have evolved from functional tools to symbols of style and refinement.
Modern rectangular watches continue to captivate watch lovers with their timeless appeal, combining heritage and contemporary design elements. Whether worn as a statement piece or a daily companion, the rectangular wristwatch remains an embodiment of sophistication and timeless elegance.
Whether you are new to the hobby or a seasoned collector, you can’t help but notice the popularity of dive watches. They are the undisputed champions of not just the sports watch world but the watch world in general. I am by no means saying that they are the best or most practical for every situation, but they are the style of watch most responsible for carrying the financial weight of most mainstream brands.
I was kind of a late bloomer in the world of dive watches. I found myself more enamored with the simplicity of a time-only watch like the Rolex Explorer, while the Submariner garnered most of the mainstream attention. There were many factors that played into this preference, but one of the most substantial was simply the size. When I first got into watches, we were riding the peak of the big watch craze and slowly trending back to a more manageable case dimension.
In 2018, Tudor released the watch that really opened the floodgates into more compact dive watches with the release of the Tudor Black Bay 58, a 39mm vintage-inspired dive watch that lit the enthusiast community on fire and created waitlists for a watch whose sole purpose was to be an accessible watch to the everyday person.
Before the hype died down and I was finally able to pull the trigger on this dream dive watch, I went down a rabbit hole that many of us have gone down: The best mid-size dive watch. I discovered an incredible niche of watches that existed well before Tudor shined a light on the segment, and that was for 36mm dive watches. Often described as unisex, mid-size, boys, or women’s, these watches checked a lot of the boxes us more conservative collectors were looking for regardless of gender.
We are going to take a look at some of the best examples of 36mm dive watches that are as capable as they are wearable. Before we dive (pun completely intended) into the list, let’s first identify exactly what a dive watch is, some of the history, and who would actually want a 36mm example.
About Dive Watches
To put it simply, a dive watch is a watch that features a certain degree of water resistance, a method for timing elapsed time, and the ability to monitor this elapsed time in a dark environment. There is the ISO 6425 standard that places some more stringent qualifications on this description, such as 100 meters of water resistance and lume plots by every indice on the dial as well as the bezel, but not every dive style watch will be rated to this standard.
When I look for a dive watch, I am typically looking for a watch with at least 100 meters of water resistance and a rotatable bezel, whether internal or external. Bonus points are awarded to watches with 200 meters of water resistance and a screw-down crown. I don’t need these features (nor do 99% of collectors), but I feel a lot more confident washing the dishes and paddling a kayak with them!
History of Dive Watches
The dive watch as we know it really came into fruition in 1953 with the introduction of the Blancpain 50 Fathoms. The watch featured the iconic rotatable dive bezel and was quickly emulated by Rolex with their Submariner and Zodiac with the Seawolf, and as they say, the rest is history.
There have been several enhancements to dive watches, including helium escape valves, lockable bezels, and full lume dials, but really the recipe hasn’t strayed too far from the original. In the last 10 years or so, the greatest change has been the introduction of the vintage-inspired dive watch.
The process of looking back in the catalog for inspiration is a unique characteristic of watches today and is responsible for many of the watches on this list looking in their archive for their sizing as well. If you are looking for a more thorough history of dive watches, feel free to check out my best dive watches under $1000 guide.
Should you Buy a 36mm Dive Watch?
This is a great question that really comes down to personal preference. If you have a large wrist and like big watches, no, you should not buy a 36mm dive watch. If you have a small wrist and have longed for a capable dive watch, yes you absolutely should buy a 36mm dive watch. For those of us in between, with slightly smaller to slightly larger wrists, it will come down to preference.
If you like a larger modern aesthetic and don’t mind the extra heft, I’d probably stick with some of the slightly larger options as the extra real estate on the dial truly is a benefit to the user experience. If you are bothered by a bulky watch or are someone that really wants to experience the feeling of a modernly built vintage-inspired watch, the 36mm is an absolute winner!
Not only do you get a watch that is capable and wearable, but most of the time you get to save a pretty significant chunk of change when purchasing one compared to their larger siblings. For those of us open to the smaller case size, this is truly a win-win.
The Best 36mm Dive Watches
Now that we have a little bit more of the backstory on dive watches, let’s begin our list of the 15 best 36mm dive watches.
Any list of dive watches would feel incomplete without a selection from Omega. Known for their innovative movement technology, strong historical provenance, and value for money compared to industry leader Rolex, Omega is a brand that needs little introduction.
Since the introduction of the “Bond” era Seamaster Diver 300M, Omega has released 2 size variations of their iconic dive watch to appease a multitude of wrist sizes. Even though that trend came to an end with their most recent iteration, the fact that Omega continued to produce 36mm dive watches through the “bigger is better” era of the 2000s is admirable.
The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, ref. 212.30.36.20.03.001, is a 36.25mm stainless steel watch that features all of the characteristics of the previous generation’s full-size version. The helium escape valve, skeleton sword hands, and scalloped bezel are all present in this compact dive watch. The watch still utilizes the Co-Axial escapement in the form of the Caliber 2500, building off of the architecture of the ETA 2892.
Although available in several variations, the blue dial and ceramic bezel on the stainless steel bracelet are the most iconic of the style. You won’t find the wave motif on this iteration, but coming in at a pre-owned price of $3000-$3500, this Seamaster offers a modern specification and a clean aesthetic other Seamasters cannot.
Although Rolex has not dabbled in the midsize dive watch game since their earliest examples in the 1950s, it doesn’t necessarily mean they don’t have an option for you. Even though Tudor set the watch world on fire with the 37mm case dimension of their Black Bay 54, there is a precedent for these smaller dive watches within their lineup.
The Tudor Submariner Mid-size, ref. 75090, is a 36mm stainless steel Submariner borrowing much of its design and parts from its bigger brother, Rolex. The watch features a sapphire crystal, Mercedes handset, tritium lume, and crown guards. The case comes in at a very svelte 10mm thanks to the ETA 2824 -2 movement that powers the watch. This watch is exactly what Hans Wilsdorf had in mind when he founded the brand Tudor.
A more affordable alternative to Rolex that can give a user a very similar ownership experience at a fraction of the price. Like most watches even associated with Rolex, that affordability part of the equation has slipped out of the grasp of many vintage collectors as most Tudor Submariner examples will fetch premiums near their Rolex big brother depending on condition.
Thanks in part to its smaller dimension, this reference will set you back anywhere from $4500-$8000, depending on the condition.
If you like the vintage styling of a watch from the late-1950s or early-1960s but want the modern construction and specification that comes with a new watch, few brands can provide as much value as Longines. They have a historical archive as deep as any Swiss watchmaker and are positioned in a place to provide these timepieces for an affordable price to a wide watch-collecting audience.
The Longines Legend Diver, ref L3.374.4.50.0, is a 36mm version of one of their most popular models since its release in 2012. This watch features an inner-rotatable dive bezel that is powered by a second crown on the timepiece. This helps prevent accidental knocking of the bezel and also helps to give the watch a distinct look compared to other options in this price range.
This watch is powered by the L592 movement, featuring a silicon hairspring and a 45-hour power reserve. Coming in at a price of $2400, this watch represents great value for someone looking for a great everyday watch with a vintage aesthetic and a few tricks up its sleeve.
If you are looking for value for money in the Swiss watch industry, few brands pack as much punch as Oris. The independently owned darling of the watch industry is known for providing consumers with well-built timepieces that can withstand a more active lifestyle.
The Oris Divers Sixty-Five is a model that has come to be a cornerstone of the Oris brand and provides entry-level luxury consumers with modern construction and specification while still maintaining the original charm of the Oris dive watches from the 1960s.
Perhaps none of these timepieces are as faithful to that original specification as the Oris Divers Sixty-Five, ref. 01 733 7747 4055-07 4 17 18. This 36mm stainless steel watch on a tropic-style rubber strap matches the original case dimension and style of the time. The dial layout represents a more standard approach than some of the models with Arabic numerals, but the watch still exudes a charm that many vintage recreation watches miss out on.
The watch has been criticized for its 100M of water resistance and less-than-perfect bezel action, but if you are looking for a modern spec monster, this may not be the watch for you. If you are looking for a dive watch that gives you the feeling of a 1960s classic while still maintaining many of the modern enhancements we have come to love, this Oris Divers Sixty-Five for $2100 is a great option to consider.
TAG Heuer is a brand with many identities. They have a strong vintage archive and are known for producing some of the most collectible vintage recreation watches available. They also have a more modern side that pushes the boundaries of engineering with watches like their Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon.
But if there was one aspect of TAG Heuer that they are most known for outside of the watch enthusiast community, it is definitely their entry-level luxury watches, many of which come from their Aquaracer line. This line of dive watches covers the entry-level luxury segments and is available in several sizes and color iterations.
The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300, ref. WBP231D.BA0626, is a 36mm stainless steel watch that comes on a matching stainless steel bracelet. Despite the smaller size, the watch shares the design language of its larger offering with the striped dial, 6 o’clock date, and dodecagon-shaped bezel (sounds crazy, but really just has some flat sides as opposed to the more standard circular shape).
The watch is powered by the caliber 5 movement, which is a dressed-up version of the ETA 2824-2 or Sellita SW200-1. Coming in at a price of roughly $3300, this watch is on the higher end of watches featuring this movement, but given the quality of the watch and name cache of the brand, there is quite a bit of value in this timepiece.
If you are looking for a modern-day military spec watch, few brands can compete with Canadian-based Marathon. While other watch brands lean into their historical archives to recreate their watches with military provenance, Marathon is able to look in their current catalog.
The biggest surprise to me, however, is not just that watches are being produced under military specification, but that they are being produced in sizes that are down-right wearable by those of us with slender wrists.
The Marathon MSAR Auto Arctic Edition, ref. WW194026SS-0530, is a great example of this capability. The 36mm stainless steel case is casual and wearable while maintaining the brutalist design language that made this watch a success in the larger variations. The arctic dial on this model absolutely pops while giving the dial an even smaller appearance with the contrasting black bezel.
The watch is powered by the M2 Marathon movement, based on the Sellita SW200-1, and features a very robust 300M of water resistance. Coming in at a price of $1100 on the rubber strap, this Marathon diver is a great option for anyone looking for a modern take on a military dive watch.
There are few brands that can offer the wide breadth of watches that SWATCH-owned Tissot can. From vintage recreations to modern classics, Tissot has a watch that will fit almost any need. One area that Tissot does not receive enough credit, however, is their ability to create very capable sports watches.
Tissot is pushing the boundaries of robustness more than any other entry-level luxury brand. While these innovations are definitely appreciated by the community, their ability to produce these watches in sizes anyone can enjoy is often overlooked.
The Tissot Seastar 1000 36mm, ref. T120.210.11.041.00, is a perfect example of a capable and versatile timepiece at a very comfortable price point for most enthusiasts at $395. What’s the Kicker? The watch is powered by a quartz movement.
Before you rule this one out, think of its purpose and whether or not a quartz movement actually makes more sense here. I love mechanical movements as much as the next enthusiast, but if you’re looking for a robust and affordable engine for your watch, it is not going to be powered by a Swiss lever escapement and a mainspring; it will be powered by a quartz crystal.
This 36mm stainless steel watch ticks a lot of boxes that we are looking for in an everyday or “beater” watch and even features a stunning blue dial, 300M of water resistance, and a better-than-expected stainless steel bracelet. If you are willing to look past the quartz movement, you can get yourself the best deal on the list with this Tissot Seastar 1000.
When you think of the brand Breitling, more than likely, a highly complicated chronograph design for pilots comes to mind. Breitling has created a remarkable legacy for itself in this space, but they do create many other watches that are worthy of attention. The Breitling Superocean line is one that deserves more attention than it currently receives. This line of dive watches is very broad and contains options for almost anyone.
The Breitling Superocean Heritage 36, ref. A17377211C1A1, features a 36mm stainless steel case and illustrates the Superocean lines’ versatility beautifully. Available in several different colors at this 36mm case size (as well as the other sizes as well), the turquoise dial option really stands out for me. Accentuated by the cream-colored chapter ring and silver bezel color, the vividness of the turquoise immediately grabs your attention.
The watch is powered by a derivative of the Sellita SW200-1, which is a pretty big hang-up for some, considering the $5,150 price tag on a stainless steel bracelet. In my opinion, if you are someone who values the look of your watch more than the fact that your movement has a proprietary design, this watch is a great option to consider.
When you produce a watch as admired as the Oris Divers Sixty-Five in the entry-level luxury space, it is hard to believe that there is a lineup in their catalog that they are even more known for. That is, of course, the Oris Aquis. Where the Diver’s Sixty-Five plays into the historical charm of the 1960s, the Aquis is the complete opposite, featuring a much more modern aesthetic and integrated bracelet.
The Aquis has been around for several iterations and has been available in several sizes and dial options. My favorite of the bunch is the Oris Aquis Date Upcycle 36.5mm. ref. 01 733 7770 4150. As the name suggests, this version is the more compact 36.5mm case and features a unique dial composed of recycled ocean plastic producing a unique dial for every watch.
Powered by a Sellita SW200-1 movement and featuring 300M of water resistance, this watch is ready for any task. Coming in at $2500, this version is a little bit of an increase in price over the standard Aquis, but given the unique look, absolutely worth the price.
Homage watches are a sensitive subject among enthusiasts. Whether you love or loathe them, you can’t deny that they are great entryways into the world of horology. Not everyone has the budget for a vintage Rolex or even Tudor Submariner, but thanks to Davosa, you can now get the look for a fraction of the price.
The Davosa Ternos Medium 36.5mm, ref. 16619540, borrows almost all of its design identity from a midsize Tudor Submariner. While some may not be OK with that for the $899 they are asking, others will have no problem.
While the ceramic bezel, sapphire crystal, and Super-LumiNova are all modern features of a watch in current production, the design language of this watch follows most closely that of the 5-digit Submariner line. While I understand that this model may not be for everyone, if you are able to look past the borrowed design, you can get a great watch for a great price.
11. Glycine Combat Sub 36mm (ref. GL0397)
If you were to ask me a few years ago if I would ever recommend a watch produced by the Invicta group to a group of watch enthusiasts, I would have given myself whiplash from shaking my head side to side so aggressively.
Although Glycine still operates as an independent watchmaker, they are very much owned by Invicta. Thankfully for us, they are continuing to produce quality Swiss-made watches for affordable prices, even though you may have to look through the Invicta pricing smoke screen.
The Glycine Combat Sub, ref. GL0397, is a 36mm dive watch that takes inspiration from the Submariner design language. They are not as “inspired” as the Davaso mentioned earlier, but the resemblance is there. What makes this watch fun and different is the case treatment Glycine has decided to go with.
This Glycine Combat Sub features a gold-plated case and bracelet, giving this watch a touch of class or gaudiness, depending on your view of gold watches. The pricing on this watch is all over the map ranging from the MSRP of roughly $1550 (don’t pay that!) down to $598 through some other retailers.
The look is unique, and if you are able to pick this up on the lower end of this range, you’ll get yourself a unique take on a Submariner-inspired watch with 300M of water resistance and a Sellita SW200-1 as well.
Armida is a brand that has developed quite a fan following amongst the micro-brand enthusiast community. Their clean and classic designs that borrow just enough from more mainstream watchmakers and robust construction help to separate this brand from the hundreds of others in the price range.
The Armida A11, ref. 00055, is a great example of this ethos. The 36mm stainless steel case features an ETA 2836-2 movement with day and date complication. The unique placement of this day/date complication at 6 O’clock on the dial helps to give this timepiece a unique look, despite the familiar black dial, black bezel, and Mil-Spec Submariner dial and handset.
This watch comes in at $399 and represents a tremendous value for a watch with a Swiss-made movement, quality construction, and compact size.
After years of relative obscurity compared to their price equivalent competition, Alpina has finally started to break out of their shell and garner more mainstream attention. With several strong product lines to their credit, the Seastrong Diver is one of the favorites among many collectors.
The Alpina Seastrong Diver 36mm, ref. AL-525LNSB3VG6, is a different take on this winning formula. Although marketed as a ladies watch, a common fate for many watches in this size range, this 36mm watch features a polycarbonate and fiberglass case in a black finish that feels quite masculine.
The watch is paired with a bi-color blue nylon strap that complements the blue fume dial. This watch is powered by a Sellita SW200-1 and comes in at a price of $1595. If you are looking for a smaller dive watch that will stand out from the crowd, this Alpina Seastrong is a great option to consider.
I am not one to typically repeat watches from the same watchmaker, let alone product line, but when a brand carries as much weight as Omega I am willing to make an exception. The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, ref. 2252.50, in 36mm, is very similar to the Omega Seamaster we mentioned earlier.
The case, helium escape valve, and scalloped bezel are virtually identical between these two models. Despite the similarities, these watches couldn’t be further apart aesthetically. The blue dial and skeleton hands have been replaced by a black wave dial and standard sword hands, giving this model more of a Mil-Spec vibe than a Hollywood icon.
This seamaster is powered by the caliber 1120 based on the ETA 2892, and the aluminum bezel insert predates the ceramic found in the newer model. The subdued look helps this watch look more natural on the wrist today than its blue counterpart that feels distinctly 90s (not that that is a bad thing).
These can be had anywhere from $2,000-$3,000, depending on the condition, and there is also a quartz version available with the same design for a little bit cheaper. If you’re looking for a luxury dive watch with some serious Military roots, the Omega Seamaster Diver, ref. 2252.50, is a great option to consider.
15. Vintage 36mm Skindiver
Alright, so I am kind of cheating here, but this style of watch definitely deserves a mention. The 1960s and early 1970s were the perfect cross-section of overproduction and lowered costs of manufacturing. There was no shortage of brands producing watches during this time, and because of this, there are still hundreds of thousands of them floating around in dresser drawers and garage sales, waiting to be discovered.
Because of the interest in recreational diving and water activities like surfing and snorkeling, many of these watches carried the Skindiver case style, capable of decent water resistance, while costing significantly less than the true dive watches of the day from brands like Omega and Rolex.
The 36mm case dimension was a favorite amongst brands due to its increased size compared to more casual timepieces of the era. Pricing for these watches varies from a few hundred dollars to a few thousand dollars, depending on the brand and the condition. You may not be able to take these watches with you diving, but they will likely hold the memories of many others who did.
Conclusion
So, there you have it, 15 of the best 36mm dive watches. Whether you just prefer a smaller watch, are a vintage enthusiast at heart, or only have the wrist to support a smaller dive watch there is a great option in this list for you. Thanks to the law of supply and demand, many of these watches can be had for a great price, slightly pre-owned, or straight from the Authorized Dealer with a discount.
A 36mm dive watch certainly isn’t for everyone, but neither is 44mm or 42mm or even the universally loved 39mm. If you need more validation of the return to midsize dive watches, look no further than Tudor at Watches and Wonders 2023.
After years of carrying the torch of producing the most well-loved dive watch for smaller wrists with the Black Bay 59 at 39mm, they introduced the Black Bay 54 at an even more compact 37mm dimension with even more bells and whistles. If Tudor released this before revamping their flagship model in the Black Bay 58, there might be more weight behind this return to midsize watches trend than most of us even believed.
Either way, more choices will always be a win for the enthusiast community as more and more people of different shapes and sizes can find the watch that fits their wrist and style perfectly!
