Author: Samar

No matter your stance on watches as “investments”, or a new alternative “asset class”, it can’t be denied that the secondary market values of these objects traditionally worn on the wrist have jumped in recent years.

Indeed, when Aurel Bacs hit the proverbial hammer on October 26, 2017, at the Phillips auction house in New York with the record-setting $17.8-million dollar sale of the “Paul Newman” Rolex Daytona, a new era of watch collecting was ushered in. 

To be clear, particularly rare vintage watches have commanded high secondary market prices on the auction block for years. But, with the advent of new technologies such as social media and popular internet blogs, the attention on the watch space has never been greater, impacting the scene from vintage all the way down to modern, new watches as well.

And while not every watch will garner the attention and multi-million dollar valuation of the “Paul Newman” Daytona, it’s clear that collectors are now acutely aware of the residual values when purchasing a watch.

Oftentimes, it may be the deciding factor when deciding to buy or not. Whether secondary market values are the lowest rung on your ladder of watch purchase decision-making or the top factor in building your watch “portfolio”, let’s explore the idea further.

Why Do People Invest in Watches?

Beanie Babies, baseball cards, comic books, and more. No matter the hobby, collectors will always seek to differentiate themselves from their peers by seeking out the rarest or most special items. If you’re looking for an error-tag Snort/Tabasco Beanie Baby, look no further than my childhood closet. And with rarity comes value (the old “supply and demand” adage); It’s no different in the watch hobby. 

But when spending upwards of thousands of dollars on a single item, it’s arguably more responsible to understand both the inherent value (the “why” of a particular watch; what draws you to it, what sparks your joy, why to hold on to it), and the secondary market value (if you had to sell it, how much would it go for, does it lose, gain or hold its value, how fast would it sell, would anyone even want to buy). 

And when we’re talking thousands of dollars, to even hundreds of thousands and millions, we enter into the realm of true asset classes. Indeed, watches have become a way to diversify and spread wealth, similar to how automobiles and fine art have in recent decades. On the one hand, we have profit-seeking, and on the other, the mere comfort of knowing your money is generally “safe”. 

How to Choose the Best Investment Watches?

None of us have a crystal ball. And we certainly can’t predict the future or offer any financial advice to propose what is or will be, the next big watch hit in which you can safely place your money. But we can make our best-educated guess based on historical market trends and the factors that led to high valuations of specific watches to better understand where we may see these patterns again in the future. So what makes a good investment watch? Consider the following factors:

• Rarity. We’ve said it before, and it bears worth repeating. Low supply generally yields high demand. The rarer a watch may be, whether from low production numbers, limited edition makeups, age, and so on, the higher the secondary market price may go. In a hobby as personal as watches (these are goods of self-expression, after all), collectors will continue to seek ways to differentiate themselves from the masses. The more different or expressive a watch can be, the more they’re willing to pay.  
• Condition. And yet, not all watches are the same, even if they are within the same make. We have to factor in the condition of a timepiece when determining its value, and the better a watch’s relative condition is, the higher its price can command. For example, a vintage 1680 Rolex “Red” Submariner with a cracked crystal should generally be less valuable than the same 1680 Red Sub with its crystal intact.
• Authenticity. Hand in hand with the condition is authenticity. Is the watch true to its original makeup when it left the factory? Are there any replacement parts, and have the replacements been disclosed to the public? Has the watch been serviced, and does it include official documentation or papers from the manufacturer and all original accouterments (good old “box and papers”)? All factors here will impact the added value.
• Heritage. Does the watch come from a particularly popular brand or has a storied history with documented use in research, development, and beyond? (Insert your favorite Moonwatch story here).
• X-Factor. The hardest to determine, and oftentimes overlapping with rarity and condition, is the “X-Factor”. This can be thought of as something that makes a watch particularly special outside the normal attributes. Think “Khanjar” or Tiffany stamped dial Rolex or your favorite celebrity wearing a timepiece courtside. Indeed, the “Paul Newman” Daytona wouldn’t have reached its record-breaking heights without relation to the actor. Even the Domino’s Pizza Rolex Air King is seeing its heyday.

Which Are the Best Watch Brands to Invest In?

The easy answer: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and popular independents such as F.P. Journe and Akrivia. 

The vaguer answer: Watches of good investment value can be found across the full spectrum, from Swatch and Seiko to the upper echelons of masters like Philippe Dufour and Roger W. Smith, model dependent. 

The truth: Any brand worth investing in will have some mix of the factors listed above, namely rarity, condition, heritage, and some shade of “X-Factor”.

These brands will be harder to get (ex: the Rolex “waitlist”), have documented histories of greatness or contributions to the watch craft and industry, and will find their own organic popularity through the movers and shakers of the hobby, ultimately garnering more interest from the community at large (ie, more demand).

The 20 Best Investment Watches of 2025 (for your consideration):

1. Rolex GMT Master II (ref. 16710)

As a premier flagship steel sports Rolex model, arguably any iteration of the Rolex GMT Master can be considered an investment piece due to the iconic status the watch holds in Rolex’s lineup and pop culture. However, particularly in the 16710 produced from 1989 through 2007, we see an “end of an era” in true tool watch form before Rolex makes the switch to upgraded materials decidedly more luxury leaning such as a ceramic bezel, updated bracelet and maxi dial and case size.

Available with the iconic red and blue “Pepsi” bezel insert, the black and red “Coke” insert, or the all-black bezel variation, the 16710 is heralded by collectors for its iconic looks and tool watch practicality. And with its 40mm case diameter, 12.4mm thickness, 47.5mm lug-to-lug, and 20mm lug width, we have classic case size proportions suitable for various wrists for those who find the modern variant a bit too large.

Of note, a collector will find a few iterations within the 16710 model line: the “SWISS T25” dial with tritium hour markers and hands pre-1999; the transitional “Swiss Only” dial dated to 1999, and the “SWISS MADE” dial featuring SuperLuminova hour markers and hands from 2000 onwards.

2. Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711

Another darling of the watch-collecting zeitgeist (perhaps THE darling), the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711, discontinued in 2021, is perhaps a surefire addition to any watch investment portfolio. Originally debuting in 2006 with several references among its ilk in steel, gold, platinum, and gem set beauties over the years, the 5711 was not actually all that popular upon its initial release. 

With its 40mm diameter case, svelte 8.3mm thickness, and that iconic Gerald Genta case design (call them “ears”, and you’ll never unsee it again), the stellar casework and finishing combined with a top-of-the-line comfort on the wrist meant that what was once under the radar and eclipsed by its kin such as the reference 5712, would soon see eventual success with the more recent craze of steel sports integrated bracelet watches (which I dub the “Genta Wave”). 

Another case of an overlooked watch becoming a hit under all the right conditions: The brand heritage of Patek, the storytelling X-Factor of Genta design, and the rarity of steel sports Patek watches all almost guaranteed the success of the 5711 which would eventually see auction results more than six times its MSRP.

3. Rolex Submariner (ref. 114060)

Quick exercise: Picture a watch in your head. Any watch. What did you see? Chances are, you saw a dive watch with a black rotating bezel, a black dial with white hands and indices on the archetypal oyster bracelet. Its name? The Rolex Submariner.

Originally launched in 1953, the Rolex Submariner and its Date counterpart (there is truly only the “Submariner” and “Submariner Date” in official Rolex terms) are definitive icons not only in the watch community but in the broader world community as well. If Rolex is the most famous luxury watch brand, the Submariner is, by default, its most iconic watch.

And you don’t have to take (pre-Brosnan era) James Bond’s word for it, or everyone who decided to mark a milestone in their lives by purchasing a Submariner in the decades since. Among its evolutionary line, the 114060 is a particularly interesting watch from an investment standpoint. Being the last of the 40mm case size Submariners (replaced by the 41mm 124060 in 2020), the 114060 actually came out a year after its date steel counterpart (116610LN).

With a shorter run than the 116610LN and its relatively smaller overall production numbers (with the Date version eclipsing the Submariner with an estimated 2:1 ratio), the 114060 occupies a unique slot within the Submariner lineup as a safe investment given the overall popularity of the Submariner line, and the relative rarity the 114060 presents within it.

4. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202 “Jumbo”

An icon, and one of the most popular watches on the planet, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202 “Jumbo” was discontinued in 2021. Discontinue any watch of the 15202’s iconic stature and status, and you’ll almost always find a safe placeholder in your watch collection.

After all, if an uber-popular watch isn’t being made anymore and fewer and fewer can be found, rarity and price sensitivity ensue. Acting as a clear call back to the original steel Royal Oak as designed by Gerald Genta, the contemporary 15202 was announced in 2012 as part of the 40th anniversary of the Royal Oak.

In the years since, we’ve seen various stunning interpretations of the 15202 in White Gold (15202BC), Titanium and Platinum (15202IP), and even full Yellow Gold (15202BA). But, it’s arguably the original steel reference (15202ST) that is the definitive luxury sports watch.

After all, the Royal Oak is the original luxury sports watch. With a 39mm size case, 8.1mm thickness, powered by the calibre 2121, and finished to perfection, anyone lucky enough to have the 15202 on their wrist has already made it; investment potential be damned.

5. Omega Speedmaster First Omega In Space (ref. 311.32.40.30.01.001)

When speaking of brand icons, the Omega Speedmaster is a genuine archetype. Nearly synonymous with the achievements of NASA in the space age for watch geeks, it was the Speedmaster CK2998 worn on the wrist of astronaut Wally Schirra (his own, purchased privately) that holds the title of the first Omega watch in space, dating back to October 3rd, 1962 on the Mercury-Atlas 8 mission.

It was in commemoration of Schirra’s achievement (orbiting the Earth six times onboard the Sigma 7 spacecraft) that Omega decided to launch the 60th-anniversary reference to the original in the “First Omega In Space” Speedmaster (FOIS) in 2012.

Now discontinued in 2020, the FOIS took inspiration from the original CK2998 with its 39.7mm diameter case size and symmetrical straight lugs (as opposed to the now emblematic twisted lugs of the “Professional” Speedmaster) worn on a leather strap, anticipating an era of vintage leaning aesthetics in a contemporary watch design that continues to this day.

From an investment standpoint, we have here in the FOIS a variant of an all-out watch archetype with a limited eight-year production run (an estimated 15,000-16,000 made based on numbered edition marked watches listed on the secondary market), with a vintage fit and appeal no longer available in the Speedmaster line.

6. Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5968G-010

The heavy hitters continue. It was John Mayer who once described the Patek Philippe Aquanaut as “the Chuck Taylor version of Patek Philippe”. If you can afford one, or even afford the opportunity to buy one, count yourself among the lucky. For when even a watch’s composite rubber strap is highly collectible, you know the timepiece it’s attached to is even more special.

Often thought of as the more affordable alternative to the Nautilus and supposedly geared towards a younger demographic, aside from the flex and literal buy-in required to purchase the watch, at its core, Mayer’s assertion is correct.

Available in Khaki Green (Electric Blue and Bright Orange variants exist, among others), with a modern 42.2mm diameter and 11.9mm thickness, the grenade-like dial and vibrance of the Aquanaut imbue the wearer with the ultimate sense of high-low in watch wear.

The best of old-world watchmaking and finishing with the Patek name and brand values (cue in the precious metal white gold case material), with the modern and punchy design to take a kicking and keep on ticking. These characteristics make the Aquanaut a highly in-demand model to this day.

7. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph (ref. 26470OR.OO.1000OR.01)

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph (26470OR) was first introduced in 2014. Featuring a pink gold case, bracelet, and dial, encased in a 42mm diameter and 14.6mm thickness water resistant to 100m, the Offshore Chronograph is an unabashed luxury sports watch.

With the Offshore line being traditionally a testing ground for Audemars Piguet in materials, limited edition models, and endorsements, this particularly robust (read “massive”) Offshore is a thick chunk of pink rose gold material, accentuated with an integrated bracelet recalling the original Royal Oak beauty of yore, while coupled with ceramic crown surrounds and chronograph pushers, a remarkably modern addition, along with a sapphire display case back.

AP is truly at the top of the game with their level of finishing and refinement, and it’s no wonder that the dichotomy of the Offshore’s seemingly uncharacteristic bold and rough sportiness coupled with a sense of ultra sophistication has created one of the more popular watches for collectors of the brand to date. In terms of investment, sometimes you need to spend money to make money, and the Offshore is indeed one fun way to do it.

8. Vacheron Constantin Overseas 4500V Brown Dial

At Vacheron Constantin’s 2016 showing at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), the third generation of the Overseas (4500V) was released to much fanfare. In blue and silver dial variations, the updates over the previous generation Overseas models (all the way back to 1996) showed us that the Overseas was a line that again deserved to be in the conversation alongside outside brand rivals in the Royal Oak and Nautilus integrated bracelet, steel sports range.

Featuring a 41mm stainless steel case in tonneau style, the 4500V is 11mm thick and water resistant to 150 meters. The movement is protected against magnetic fields up to 25,000 A/m with its soft iron casing ring and is available on a steel bracelet, rubber, or leather strap.

And while the blue and silver dial variants are drool-worthy in their own right with their refinement and build quality, it was the brown dial 4500V/110A-B146 variant released in May 2016, a few months after SIHH, that’s a particularly good investment for the discerning collector as it was discontinued only one year later.

Again, we fall back to rarity and X-Factor; A holy trinity grade watch, representative of a steel sports/integrated bracelet line, limited to a one-year production, with arguably the loveliest shade of brown on a luxury watch yet (Seriously; Why aren’t there more?).

9. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (ref. 116500LN)

No surprises here; The Rolex “Panda” Daytona (116500LN) makes the list. With a history going as far back as 1963, the first Cosmograph chronograph was decidedly not a hit. Despite its associations with the Daytona Speedway 24-Hour endurance race (of which Rolex became the official timekeeper for in the 60s), it was a watch famously sold off at a heavy discount and often coupled with the purchase of full gold Datejusts in the 70s and 80s (anecdotal, but you catch my drift) which were the best sellers at the time.

In other words, it was the unwanted outcast of the bunch. But where unpopularity ends, rarity and scarcity take hold. Throw in the celebrity factor (insert Paul Newman), and keen heads began to take note. Ultimately, we know the modern ceramic Daytona as one of the most unattainable watches at retail in current times, with supposed waitlists in the double-digit years.

And yet, regardless of the hype and phenomenon that accompanies the Daytona legend, we have a watch that at its core has evolved on a technical level with the calibre 4130 (quiet progress; Rolex’s way) in a 904L Oystersteel case and bracelet, measuring 40mm in diameter (officially; on the wrist, it’s closer to a 39mm) and 12.2mm thick. All of which to say, a watch that wears perfectly. Whether you purchase it for the hype or investment purposes or to simply enjoy it on your wrist, you won’t find disappointment here.

10. Omega Speedmaster “Alaska Project” (ref.311.32.42.30.04.001)

Timeline: the early 1970’s. NASA is considering exploration of the dark side of the moon; Omega develops an outer case for the Speedmaster watch to help withstand the harsh and extreme temperatures of Outer Space. Its name: “Alaska Project”. Fast forward to 2008, when Omega decides to release a limited and numbered edition of the “Alaska Project’ to the public, in 1970 pieces available world wide in commemoration of its historic exploits.

With it’s stark white dial, contrasted against the now iconic sub dial “Apollo Hands”, the Alaska Project Speedmaster is an otherwise standard Speedmaster Professional case and calibre 1861 movement that also features a large red-anodized aluminum outer case (57mm diameter x 23mm thick) which when coupled to the watch, enables it to withstand temperatures between -148 degrees celsius, to +250 degrees celsius. It’s big, it’s bold, and it’s rare.

11. Rolex Daytona “John Mayer”

The second Daytona on our list, everything we said prior still rings true for the “John Mayer”, reference 116508. In fact, the “John Mayer” name came only from its association with the famous singer-songwriter after he revealed the watch as part of his collection.

He regarded it as an obvious hit that was being overlooked, and just like that, the solid yellow gold watch with its stunning Rolex green dial became an overnight sensation. Consequent rumors of its eventual discontinuation year after year since have only added to increased speculative values. John was right; this one’s a hit.

12. Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre (ref. 233.32.41.21.01.001)

Omega’s ties to the James Bond cinematic empire date back to the Pierce Brosnan era of the 1990s. With the traditional wave dial Bond Seamaster now being an icon in its own right, we propose looking at what could be that model’s antithesis; The straight lug, broad arrow Seamaster 300 Spectre edition based on the CK2913 of the late 1950s.

The Spectre is an attractive watch that leans into the design cues and aesthetics of the 50s and 60s, coupled with the modern innovations of Omega technology such as the Co-Axial and calibre 8400 movement. In total, 7007 pieces were made.

13. Richard Mille RM055 “Bubba Watson”

Bubba Watson, the famous American professional golf player, has partnered with Richard Mille since 2011. Though many models have been built for Watson (for example: the RM038, a direct inspiration for the RM055), the RM055, in particular, is a highly technical and innovative sports watch hand-finished to high watchmaking tradition standards.

Richard Mille, renowned for their unique case and baseplate materials and research, combines rubber, titanium, carbon fiber, sapphire, and ceramic in a highly skeletonized tonneau case with the “Bubba Watson”. Built to handle extreme sports and high impact, truly any Richard Mille watch is an investment in both price to acquire and expressive (yet functional) design.

14. Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980/1R

A 45-hour power reserve, fly-back sports chronograph in 18k rose gold, the 5980/1R simply oozes class with its 40.5 mm diameter x 12.2mm thick case, all the while water resistant up to 120 meters. With a 21k gold central rotor powering its manufacture CH 28-520 C movement, what truly sets the 5980/1R apart is its solid rose gold bracelet (and that finishing), formerly available in rose gold only on a leather strap before 2013. This is a bold watch for the boldest of collectors only, and at over 253 grams unsized, it’s a true investment piece that could be the center of any watch portfolio (if not said portfolio’s center of gravity). 

15. Richard Mille RM27-04 “Rafael Nadal”

Surely, any watch with a million-dollar price tag should be considered an “investment”. But what makes the RM27-04 “Rafael Nadal” special? Why the price tag? Limited to 50 pieces, we have a watch with a suspended tourbillon and movement within a micro-blasted, stainless steel mesh joined to two PVD-treated gold tensioners.

Anchored at the 1 and 5 o’clock positions, its forward-thinking design allows the watch to withstand upwards of 12,000 G’s, which sure sounds a heck of a lot more than anything Nadal (or you and I, for that matter) could swing a tennis racket at.

16. IWC Ingenieur SL “Jumbo” Ref. 1832

Stainless steel sports watch: Check. Integrated bracelet: Check. Actual honest Gerald Genta (not derived) design: Checkmate. While we often think of the Royal Oak and Nautilus as the two main pillars of Genta design, for true nerds, the Ingenieur is right up there as the third pillar in the designer’s achievements (you weren’t thinking of his Mickey Mouse watches, were you?).

A 40mm tonneau-shaped case, 12.5mm thickness, with a five-drilled hole round bezel and graph paper like guilloché, we have all the hallmarks of a Genta classic, and as an investment piece, you could do much worse.

17. Tudor Submariner 7928

Originally conceived by Rolex founder, Hans Wilsdorf, to be the affordable alternative to the Rolex brand, Tudor watches have earned their place in history as much more than just the “little sibling to big brother”. With ties to historic expeditions of their own to partnerships with militaries the world over, vintage Tudor watches, in particular, have seen a massive spike in interest in recent years as collectors become outpriced or disinterested in the evergreen Rolex model equivalents.

Introduced in 1959, the Tudor Submariner, reference 7928 in particular, saw production for nearly 10 years. It had two notable firsts: the introduction of crown guards and a larger case size (up from 37mm of the reference 7924 prior to 39mm in the 7928). Over its ten-year production span, upwards of at least six documented variants were produced. However, the MK1 “square crown guards” variant is among the rarest, with only an estimated 100 known in existence.

18. Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42 Infinity Edition

Continuing the theme of steel sports, integrated bracelet watches dominating the collectors market, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42 Infinity Edition was released in limited production (188 units) in partnership with watch retailer Wempe, sold exclusively through Wempe locations in London, Germany, and New York after its debut in 2020.

As the name implies, the watch is 42mm in diameter, matched with a thickness of only 10.7mm, featuring an anti-reflective sapphire crystal and display caseback whilst providing 100m of water resistance and 54 hours of power reserve. But perhaps the true star of the show is that black onyx dial contrasted with pink gold markers. To infinity and beyond.

19. F.P. Journe Elegante 48

Independent darling brand (and living watchmaker) F.P. Journe has seen a meteoric rise in the watch-collecting market in the past decade. With its unique and unrivaled sense of design and innovation respecting the tradition of watchmaking, it was no coincidence, given the level of watchmaking and scarcity of its product.

Among such achievements, in the Elegante 48, we see the Calibre 1210, 8 years in development. A largely hand-finished quartz movement that can put itself to sleep after 35 minutes of inactivity, a microprocessor then remembers the time so that when reactivated from physical movement, the hands jump back to the correct time.

Impressively, with regular use, the battery can provide upwards of 8-10 years of life, whereas its theoretical maximum is an unthinkable 18 years of life if left in a dormant state. Embrace the quartz revolution with the Journe Elegante 48.

20. Tudor Prince Day Date

Debuting in 1952, the Tudor Prince line was the foundation of Tudor watches, occupying the space equivalent to the Datejust and Day-Dates of the Rolex world. Classically styled, the Prince Day Date, in particular, features an oyster style case with a jubilee bracelet and the unmistakable day wheel at 12 o’clock, with a traditional style date and date magnifier at 3 o’clock a la the Rolex “President”.

Though now discontinued, the 76200 reference available since the 1990s can still be found in good condition as an alternative daily wearer to more expensive options from Rolex and even the current Tudor catalog. As collectors look back to uncover neo-vintage gems from the 1990s and early 2000s, Tudor’s brand popularity today almost guarantees that models like the Prince Day Date won’t be overlooked for much longer.

21. A Lange & Sohne Datograph Up/Down Lumen

1.  

The Datograph Up/Down is the fourth model in the “Lumen” series. It has a semi-transparent dial with bright, luminescent features ensuring full visibility in the dark. A flyback chronograph comes with a precise minute counter featured directly in the center of the piece, with the two subsidiary dials forming a triangle with the unique-looking outsize date. 

The 950 platinum case measures 41mm in diameter and 13.4mm in thickness. It is a manually wound watch, with the L951.7 at the watch’s core, beating at 18,000 vph with a power reserve of 60 hours. The strap is a beautiful, black, alligator leather finely crafted to ensure comfort, and the lug-to-lug distance comes in at 20mm.  

With the Datograph being such a sought-after piece, collectors recommend transforming it with a smoked sapphire dial, and you’ll have a serious collector’s item on your hands.

Conclusion

“Investment” has become almost a dirty word in the watch hobby. But the factors that make a good investment watch are also the things that make a watch worth collecting: Rarity, personality, differentiation, and time-proven design.

Furthermore, understanding investment value and thinking of watches as an asset doesn’t need to negate the joy we get from owning them. It’s merely one part of the spectrum in our collective watch journeys and ultimately helps us understand our tastes and preferences in a new light.

Mechanical watches are timepieces that utilize non-electronic means of keeping the time. Just about any watch that isn’t quartz (save for Grand Seiko, but more on that later) is considered a mechanical watch. While the original mechanical watches were all hand-wound, the technology eventually advanced to the point where self-winding or automatic watches became the standard. 

While mechanical watches aren’t necessarily the most high-tech timepieces on the market, there’s just something special about that analog feel you get with a traditional mechanical watch. That’s why the luxury watch market is mostly comprised of mechanical watches rather than quartz watches.

What Is a Mechanical Watch?

Mechanical watches utilize a mainspring which is wound to release that energy in short bursts, using gears to keep accurate time. Even though the first mechanical watches had to be wound by hand in order to keep time, the development of automatic watches allowed for a rotor that spins using the movement of your hand to continuously wind the mainspring.

There’s beauty, and some might even say romance, to the inner and outer workings of a mechanical watch. A mechanical watch releases energy in small quick bursts, which allows the second hand to sweep somewhat smoothly across the dial. This is a pleasing sight to most watch collectors and something that a quartz watch simply can’t replicate.

In the late 1960’s Japanese watchmakers developed the quartz movement, which allowed for a battery to send an electrical signal through a quartz crystal, which would regulate the time. It was more accurate than most mechanical watches and never needed to be wound. 

The main disadvantage to quartz was that you had to continually change the battery. However, to some watch collectors, quartz is too clinical and cold. They prefer the mechanical heartbeat of a hand-wound or automatic watch, and quartz just can’t scratch that itch.

The most obvious external difference between a mechanical watch and a quartz watch is the second hand. As stated above, mechanical watches tend to have a smooth sweep of the second hand. 

On the other hand, quartz watches tick one second at a time, which is manifested in a slowly ticking second hand across the dial. While it doesn’t have an impact on the accuracy of the watch, it’s something that’s just not as pleasing to many collectors as that smooth mechanical sweep.

Types of Mechanical Watches

Hand-wound mechanical watches are just as they sound, wound by hand. These were the first mechanical watches that were available. Every day or two, a hand-wound mechanical watch must have its crown rotated.

This builds up the energy in the mainspring, which gets released throughout the day, allowing the timepiece to keep accurate time. Later, watchmakers and engineers developed the automatic movement. While this movement works in essentially the same way as a hand-wound one, there’s a single difference.

Rather than requiring the crown to be rotated, the watch has an internal weighted rotor. The rotor spins around whenever the user walks or moves their hands, winding the mainspring. This allows for a more user-friendly and less labor-intensive experience for the wearer.

The Best Mechanical Watches

That’s why we’ve compiled this list of the 20 best mechanical watches at every price level. Because you shouldn’t have to sacrifice the joy of having a mechanical watch on your wrist just because of the cost. Read on to see the best options at every price point, and you’re sure to find at least one that meets your needs.

Seiko SRPD55

Seiko is known for having high-quality watches at nearly every price point, so it’s fitting that we start our list with this classic Seiko option. The SRPD55 comes from the vaunted Seiko 5 collection of steel sports watches. It has a diameter of 42.5mm, making it both comfortable and legible. 

It also includes an automatic Seiko movement with a 41-hour power reserve, a unidirectional rotating dive bezel, and a tri-fold clasp. To top it off, the SRPD utilizes Seiko’s proprietary LumiBrite lume and Hardlex crystal, offering a whole lot of bang for your buck. Wear this beauty out in the water, and you’ll likely garner as much respect as those wearing a Rolex Submariner. 

This watch is priced at $295.

Seagull 1963

Seagull is a brand with an interesting history. Initially conceptualized by the Chinese government in the mid-20th century, Seagull was first created to create high-quality watches for the Chinese military. This model, ref. 6345G-2901 is a reimagining of their original 1963 hand-wound chronograph manufactured for the Chinese Air Force. 

The movement is a Seagull ST21, based on the classic Venus hand-wound movement. When Swiss company Venus needed to sell all their old movement-making equipment, the Chinese government purchased it and installed it in their factory.

The watch comes with a classically-sized 38mm case, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, 21,600 VPH, and a 45-hour power reserve when fully wound. This is an affordable watch with looks, heritage, and functionality, all for less than $400.

This watch is priced at approximately $400.

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical

When it comes to legendary field watches, few models are more respected than the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical. This particular model, ref. H69439931 comes with a traditional case size of 38mm, the Hamilton H-50 hand-wound movement, and availability on a steel bracelet or fabric nato strap. 

This watch is all about braving the great outdoors and getting home safely. The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical has a loyal following, even among those who collect watches in the tens of thousands of dollars. It’s a dependable workhorse and one with real heritage and history. And it comes at a great price to boot, so what are you waiting for?

This watch is priced at $575.

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Blue Dial

The Tissot PRX, ref. T137.407.11.041.00 is a watch that was released using inspiration from one of their earlier models from the late 1970s and early 1980s. Utilizing a slim integrated bracelet and modern case design, the PRX quickly became a “must-have” throughout the greater watch community. 

It utilizes Tissot’s famed Powermatic 80 automatic movement that boasts a whopping 80-hour power reserve. The case measures 40mm in diameter and includes a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, a display case back, and a beautiful textured dial.

If you want to be in with the cool watch crowd but don’t want to spend thousands, then the PRX is the way to go. It also comes in a black and a gorgeous deep green dial variant. 

This watch is priced at $675.

Seiko Prospex SPB143

Seiko is a giant in the world of watches at almost every level. This solid diver that can be found for less than $1000 is the perfect example of why the Japanese brand is so revered. It has a perfect diameter of 40.5mm, 200m of water resistance, a 24-jewel Seiko automatic movement, and a full 70 hours of power reserve. Unlike many other Seiko divers, this one comes with a solid sapphire crystal rather than Seiko’s proprietary Hardlex, making it even more durable for those long days in the water.

This watch is priced at $575.

Longines Flagship Heritage 

Longines is a legacy Swiss brand that offers something for just about anyone in the watch world. With their Flagship Heritage models, they went back to their roots and delivered a classic dress watch.

Offered in silver and black dial models, this (ref.L47954782) 38.5mm stunner has a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, a small seconds function, a 6 o’clock date window, and an automatic movement with 42 hours of power reserve. This gorgeous watch is perfect for a night out on the town or a day at the office. 

This watch is priced at $1200.

Oris Aquis Caliber 400

Oris creates some of the best mid-range dive watches on the market. The foundation of their dive watch line, with good reason, is the Aquis Caliber 400 (ref. 01 400 7763 4135.) Available in a few different colors, the Aquis Caliber 400 comes in a sturdy 43.5mm case.

It’s also available in a slightly less expensive option, with a third-party movement. This one has all the bells and whistles of a luxury dive watch, including a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, a self-winding automatic movement, and a gorgeous ceramic bezel insert.

But the Aquis isn’t just another pretty face (although it has that too). You get a depth rating of 300 meters, so this is a real diver that can take a whole lot of wear and tear in the water.

This watch is priced at $3700.

Oris Pro Pilot X Caliber 400

While Oris may be best known for their dive watches, their pilot watches are almost as popular. The Pro Pilot X is a gorgeous line incorporating Oris’ heritage of pilot’s watches with modern design and materials. The beautiful textured outer bezel gives the watch dimension, while the dial is all about refinement and simplicity, also offering a date window at 6 o’clock. 

The case and the bracelet are both made from lightweight titanium, making this one of the most comfortable watches you’ll ever own. It also has a power reserve of 120 hours, a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and a screw-down crown which helps the watch offer a water resistance of 100 meters. While this blue variation (ref.  01 400 7778 7155-07 7 20 01TLC) is lovely, it also comes in gray or bright salmon colors.

This watch is priced at $4300.

Tudor Black Bay 58

What can we say about the Tudor Black Bay 58 (ref.M79030N-0001) that hasn’t already been said? It has a diameter of 39mm, a sapphire crystal, snowflake hands, a 70-hour power reserve, and a screw-down crown with 200 meters of water resistance.

The design of the case and the dial go back to the days of vintage Rolex and Tudor divers, and the smaller case size takes those similarities even further. 

The watch’s name was derived from the first-ever Tudor dive watch. It’s an example of how going back to what made a brand great in the first place can take them even further. The Tudor Black Bay 58 just might be the perfect dive watch for anyone. 

This watch is priced at $4300.

IWC Mark XX

IWC made a name for themselves by creating legendary pilot’s watches. The famed Schaffhausen watchmaker has created some of the most iconic timepieces of the past century, and the Mark XX (ref. IW328204) lives up to that standard.

IWC is one of the most underappreciated brands in the Swiss watch market, especially in terms of its value proposition. With its straightforward pilot dial design and gorgeous blue color, this watch is just as impressive at a fancy dinner party as it is in the cockpit.

It has a moderate width of 40mm but a surprisingly svelte height of just 10.8mm, making it fit perfectly under a cuff. The three o’clock date window and automatic movement with 120 hours of power reserve make this model fly out of boutiques, so get one while you still can.

This watch is priced at $3950.

Grand Seiko SBGA211

Grand Seiko is all about beauty and precision. The SBGA211 offers all that and more. Starting with perhaps the best thing about this watch, it’s powered by Seiko’s patented Spring Drive movement. The Spring Drive is a mechanical movement that uses a quartz crystal to regulate timekeeping. 

This means it has the best of both worlds, combining the romance of mechanical watchmaking with the technical superiority of quartz technology. That gives it an accuracy of plus or minus one second per day.

It also has a power reserve display and one of the most stunning textured dials you’ll find anywhere. Add to that a lightweight titanium case and 100 meters of water resistance, and you might never need to own another watch again.

This watch is priced at $6200.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M

The Omega Seamaster range offers a real dive watch for real divers. That’s not to say that everyone else can’t enjoy it just as much. This gorgeous blue dial watch (ref. 210.30.42.20.03.001) has the signature Seamaster wave pattern, a 42mm case size, the Omega caliber 8800 movement, with George Daniels’ famed coaxial escapement, and 300 meters of water resistance. 

On top of all that, the AR-coated sapphire crystal will stay pristine for years, and the comfortable steel bracelet will make you forget that you’re even wearing a watch, even in the harsh sea elements. In addition to the standard Seamaster Diver 300M, the Seamaster Aqua Terra is a great alternative for those who want all of the technical benefits of a dive watch but prefer a more simple and dressy look. After all, the Seamaster Diver 300M and the Aqua Terra were good enough for James Bond, so they should be good enough for you!

This watch is priced at $5600.

Omega Speedmaster Professional

We love this watch to the moon and back, as did the astronauts. The Speedmaster Professional (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002) is one of the most widely recognized watches in the world, mainly because it left this world on a rocket ship.

The iconic chronograph is one of the most robust and accurate timepieces available on the market. The standard Speedmaster Professional model has a hand-wound in-house chronograph movement and a diameter of 42mm but wears closer to 40mm or 41mm because of the tachymeter that runs around the outside. 

The dial is monochromatic and highly legible, making for the perfect tool watch for all of your timekeeping needs. If you’re a history buff and appreciate beautiful watches, then the Speedmaster Professional has everything you’ll ever want in a watch.

For those who really want to own a piece of history, the famed Omega 321 movement Speedmaster might be worth buying. This is the same as the standard Speedmaster Professional, but the movement is almost identical to the one that was in the very first Speedmaster “moon watch”.

This watch is priced at $7600.

Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date

Glashütte Original is a German watch brand that’s known for its classic styling and impressive attention to detail. The Sixties Panorama Date (ref. 2-39-47-06-02-04) is a great dress or casual watch, depending on how you style it. The bright blue sunburst dial is joyful and bold, and the vintage-style roman numerals and stick indices are pure class. 

The watch features a diameter of 42mm, a beautifully branded tang buckle clasp, 40 hours of power reserve, and a domed sapphire crystal. It also includes a convenient date window just above the six o’clock position, a function that most people use even more than they ever expected.

This watch is priced at $8000.

Rolex GMT Master II

Rolex is perhaps the most widely-known watch brand in the world. And the GMT Master II (ref. 126710BLRO) is just one of the reasons that the brand is so popular. GMT stands for Greenwich Mean Time. This watch allows you to track three time zones simultaneously, using an additional GMT hour hand and a rotating 24-hour bezel. 

The 100 meters of water resistance and convenient 40mm size make it a great everyday watch. The iconic red and blue “Pepsi” bezel makes this watch an absolute stunner that’s sure to inspire plenty of second looks. It’s one of the most iconic watches of all time and one that watch connoisseurs love all over the world.

This watch has an MSRP of $10700.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

If Rolex is the most famous watch brand in the world, then the Daytona (ref. 116500LN) just might be the most famous watch in the world. This gorgeous slim chronograph has been worn on the wrist of racing legends and movie stars alike. In the case of the “Paul Newman” Daytona, those two people are one and the same.

The watch has a diminutive profile at 40mm but a huge historical presence. The tri-compax design is appealing to the eye but not too flashy.

It has 100 meters of water resistance due to the screw-down crown and pushers, an uncommon feature for chronographs. The black and silver monochromatic design is stunning in the light, and the watch goes with almost any type of dress, casual to formal.

This watch has an MSRP of $14800.

Hublot Big Bang Black Magic

Hublot has gained popularity in recent years for its bold design language and sense of fun. The Big Bang Black Magic (301.CM.130.RX) has plenty of both. With a substantial size of 44mm, this watch makes a statement. The black riveted bezel and rubber strap complement the functional and highly legible chronograph dial. 

It has an automatic movement with 42 hours of power reserve, a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and 100 meters of water resistance. This watch is tough and durable, and it looks the part. 

This watch is priced at approximately $16000.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Vacheron Constantin is one of the “Holy Trinity”, as it’s called in watchmaking. It’s a legacy brand respected for its attention to detail and beautiful dials. When looking at this Overseas model (ref. 4500V/110A-B128), it’s no surprise.

The bright blue dial mimics the color of the ocean at different times of day, and the 41mm case size is perfect for everyday use. The watch has a water resistance of 150 meters and an AR-coated scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, so it’s much more than just another pretty face. 

This watch has an MSRP of $22500.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Another “Holy Trinity” brand, Audemars Piguet, has a virtual gold mine when it comes to their Royal Oak model (ref. 15202). Designed by legendary watch designer Gerald Genta, this 1970s-era sports model has captured the imagination of watch lovers the world over. It has a diameter of 39mm but wears much larger. 

The stylish integrated bracelet design has been copied by hundreds of other watch brands, and with good reason. It’s a stunning look on the wrist and one that is not easily ignored. The dial is no slouch, either. The gray-blue color with the “Petite Tapisserie” texture is subtle but confident. It also has an in-house automatic movement with 40 hours of power reserve and a respectable 50 meters of water resistance. 

This watch has an MSRP of $33200.

Patek Philippe Nautilus

Patek Philippe is perhaps the most revered watchmaker of all time. Their watches offer timeless style and undeniable quality. The Nautilus (ref. 5711), similar to the AP Royal Oak, is a classic 1970s sports watch design that will likely never go out of style. 

The geometrically shaped case and striped dial design are instantly recognizable, and it has real sports watch pedigree as well. The steel construction, automatic movement with 42 hours of power reserve, sapphire crystal, and 100 meters of water resistance make the Nautilus a giant among watches.

This watch has an MSRP of $34800.

Patek Philippe Calatrava

With a stellar appeal between generations of watch lovers, the Patek Philippe Calatrava is as loud as it is subtle. Of course, this depends on which one you go with from the collection, but they all have more than enough to love.

More specifically, a fan favorite of mine is the 5227 J, which comes in a classic yellow-gold colorway. I also really love the simplicity of the beige-looking dial. The minor curvatures reflect light perfectly, and the self-winding mechanical movement is smoother than you might expect. I’m a huge sucker for simplicity in high-end watches, and Patek Philippe nailed it with the Calatrava series.

This watch comes with an MSRP of $41,710.

Conclusion

Mechanical watches are a true beauty to observe due to their intricate moving parts. Thankfully, there are several options for watch enthusiasts to enjoy these engineering marvels across all budgets. 

I hope this list of the 20 best mechanical watches sparked an interest in starting your own mechanical watch collection. If you do, consider shopping at Exquisite Timepieces. We have a huge selection of affordable and luxury mechanical watches, and our team of experts is always available to help you choose the best one!

Whirlwind is the English translation for the french word, ‘tourbillon’. It was named tourbillon because it literally spins on itself and is constantly in a state of motion. However, it’s not what you’re thinking. A tourbillon is not just another superfluous complication designed out of vanity. 

Patented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, a tourbillon is a marvelous expression of fine watchmaking that defies conventional classification. Gravity is a force that can upset the accuracy of a timepiece when in certain positions leading to less accuracy and precision.

The tourbillon was thus designed to counter the effect of gravity on the regulating organ so that the watch can remain highly accurate no matter its position.

The fact that tourbillon watches are rare (and challenging to produce) confers a notable degree of scarcity in them, making them highly sought after by connoisseurs of exquisite timepieces. They are even considered the  ‘Holy Grail’ of Haute Horologerie and are fashioned by the most talented and highly skilled watchmakers. 

From the most affordable to the most luxurious and exquisite watches, read on to discover the best tourbillon watches with peerless complexity and craftsmanship!

About The Tourbillon

The escapement of a timepiece is often in a fixed position in each mechanical watch. This escapement includes a hairspring that is mounted on a balance wheel that rotates back and forth, and this is where the problem lies. 

Since the balance wheel has some heavier spots due to its design, the gravitational effects on these areas affect the watch’s accuracy whenever it is positioned differently.

Abraham-Louis Breguet realized that the only way to solve this problem was to house the entire escapement in a rotating cage. If the balance wheel and hairspring are in constant motion, then no matter what position the watch is in, the variations in timing will be annulled.

Consequently, the tourbillon was developed by Abraham-Louis Breguet in the year 1795 and patented in 1801. The next important evolution of the tourbillon took place in 1902 when a flying tourbillon was developed by Alfred Helwig and his students. The so-called ‘flying’ tourbillon was designed to improve the stability and visual appeal of the standard tourbillon.

Unlike its predecessor, it was cantilevered. This means it was only supported on one side, rendering an unhinged view into the classical escapement.

After this innovative creation, the double-axis tourbillon followed in the 1980s and featured a design that could rotate the tourbillon cage in two axes. Today, inventions like gyro tourbillons and triple-axis tourbillons proudly display the aesthetic prowess of high-end watch brands.

What Is The Purpose of Tourbillon Watches?

The initial purpose of a tourbillon was to check the effects of gravity on the movement of pocket watches. Pocket watches were typically worn in a vertical position. They could stay in this position all day except for the minor instances in which the wearer moved them to find out the time.

This sort of positioning when in use and flat storage when not in use meant the movements of pocket watches were subject to unequal pressures upsetting their accuracy.

By rotating the escapement and balance wheel through all the probable vertical positions, the tourbillon could cancel out the pressure on the movement and improve the accuracy and longevity of the timepiece.

This invention was of great advantage, and tourbillons invaded the Horological world as soon as they arrived. However, with the advent of wristwatches around the time of World War 1, the relevance of the tourbillon waned.

The movements of wristwatches are not susceptible to the same pressure as pocket watches since they are worn on the wrist and often moved by the wearer, creating a sort of ‘tourbillon’. 

In modern times, the tourbillon has evolved from a practical complication to a piece of engineering that demonstrates watchmakers’ craftsmanship, creativity, and aesthetic prowess.

35 Best Tourbillon Watches From Affordable To Luxury

1. Lenvino Tour Collection 02

With a price tag of fewer than $1,000, you’re not going to purchase the world’s most elaborate tourbillon. But the fact that you will get a distinguished timepiece with a real flying tourbillon movement is astonishing.

Lenvino is a Hong Kong watch brand known for creating authentic watches with premium materials. With its stainless steel circular case measuring 43mm in diameter and strap width of 20mm x 18mm, the Lenvino Tour Collection 02 is remarkably comfortable and suitable for most consumers.

The dial is ‘stripped’, drawing exclusive attention to the beautiful Flying Tourbillon relying on a cantilevered single support. The rotation is certainly a pleasure to behold when viewed from above, and the high quality is astonishing. The dial also has a grained texture and is adorned with printed Arabic numerals and skeleton alpha hands.

The Seagull TY800 real flying tourbillon movement vibrates at 21,600 beats per hour and provides a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.

The watch is priced at approximately $900

2. ERA Timepieces Prometheus

Founded by Michael Galarza in 2018, ERA Timepieces is respected for keeping its promise. The young brand made a grand promise of offering ultra-rare and high-end haute horology complications in price tags that are accessible to all.

Whether the Prometheus Tourbillon lives up to the hype of delivering quality and craftsmanship worth a million dollars in a package just a little above $1,000 is up to the wearer. However, the timepiece is breathtaking. 

The Prometheus Tourbillon is a big watch with a stainless case measuring 44mm across, a thickness of 12.7mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 51mm. The skeletonized dial features a pretty clever design with an exposed tourbillon carriage at 6 o’clock. 

The embellished dial has been painstakingly created to dazzle the eye and pay tribute to Haute Horology. Oscillating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour is the Caliber HZ3360A. It is a Chinese tourbillon hand-wound movement with impressive accuracy and a power reserve of approximately 32 hours.

The watch is priced at approximately $1,500.

3. Stührling Viceroy Tourbillon 296D

Stührling is another watch brand that offers aesthetically pleasing timepieces at very affordable rates. At a diameter of 42 mm, the size is just ideal for showing off the details of the dial flawlessly. 

The Chinese-made timepiece may not feature a flawless tourbillon escapement, but if you want to sport a watch with this complication and are under budget, you can begin from here. 

The dial is highly legible with a guilloché-like pattern adorned with skeletonized alpha-styled hands and an exposed tourbillon movement. Applied Roman numerals juxtaposed with stick-style hour markers provide a nice contrast against the silver-plated dial. 

The tourbillon mechanism is positioned at the lower end of the dial giving the watch an attractive and luxurious feel. It is water resistant only to a depth of 50 meters despite having a screw-down crown and features scratch-resistant Sapphire crystals in front and behind. 

The watch is priced at $2,250.

4. Swatch Diaphane One Tourbillon (ref. SVAK1001)

Known for revolutionary ideas, Swatch is a watch brand famous for high-quality and stylish timepieces that defy the principles of quintessential Swiss watchmaking. The Ref. SVAK1001 is one such creative model with a joyful design that surprised Swatch fans when it was released in 2001.

Limited to 2222 pieces, the Diaphane One line contains Swatch’s most complicated watches. The 42mm case is made of plastic and aluminum (only the bezel material). The watch is classified as a Carrousel Tourbillion because it uses two different power sources—one for the escapement and another to regulate the rotation of the enclosure. 

The whole faceplate rotates once every 30 minutes, so you have two rotations per hour. The magnificent open-worked dial is adorned with Lancette hands in addition to stamped Arabic numerals and stick hour markers.

Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is a skeletonized manual winding movement; the ETA 93.001 has been refined with several decorations. It provides a power reserve of approximately 50 hours.

The watch is priced at approximately $4,000.

5. TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon (ref. CAR5A8W.FT6071)

TAG Heuer is a solid brand famous for utilizing avant-garde engineering in the production of its watches. 

The Chronograph Tourbillon is presented in a large case that measures 45mm in diameter.  The generous proportions are compensated for with a lightweight black PVD titanium case and carbon bezel.

The skeleton dial is nothing short of impressive, and including a tourbillon complication makes it more enthralling. The captivating flying tourbillon complication is housed in an aperture at the base of the dial. 

Three rotating arms hold it in position, and a generous application of SuperLuminova on the balance wheel means the escapement will be legible even in low light. The dial is multiple layers adding impressive depth and beauty.

A 12-hour chronograph register resides at 9 o’clock, while a 30-minute chronograph register sits at 3 o’clock. Both registers are open-worked, revealing a vertically brushed surface underneath. 

The in-house caliber HEUER02T COSC keeps the timepiece highly accurate and provides a power reserve of approximately 65 hours.

The watch is priced at approximately $15,000.

6. Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Manufacture (ref. FC-975MC4H4)

The Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Manufacture is presented in a 42mm rose gold-plated case that has been polished to the highest sheen. At the center of the brilliant silver dial, you will find a clous de Paris guilloché decoration and three sub-registers with crisp markings in black. 

At 12 o’clock is the indicator for month and leap year, while the date is at 3 o’clock, and the day of the week is at 9 o’clock. The 60-minute tourbillon is located at the base of the dial in a large aperture that offers us a superb view of the tourbillon cage, balance wheel, and silicium escapement.

Slender hand-polished leaf-shaped hour and minute hands eloquently mark the large printed Roman numerals in black. Hyper-expensive movements are neglected for this piece, and a reliable and affordable one has been used here.

A pane of sapphire crystal across the case-back offers a breathtaking view of the FC-975 Manufacture caliber. It beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph and has a power reserve of 38 hours. The Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Manufacture comes mounted on a quality alligator strap fitted with a deployant.

The watch is priced at approximately $18,000.

7. Montblanc Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon (ref. MB126469)

Inspired by the spirit of Haute Horologerie, the Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon is cleverly constructed with an unmatched presentation.  The 18k rose gold case measures 42 mm in diameter and has been polished to the highest gleam. The slim height gives the watch a perfect wrist presence making it a choice dress watch.

The extremely detailed dial is exquisitely finished, and the breathtaking suspended Exo Tourbillon mechanism sits at the base of the dial. Exo is derived from a Greek word that means external. 

As such, an impressively large balance wheel is elevated outside the tourbillon’s cage. Not only is this move aesthetically pleasing, but it also makes rotation seamless, thus increasing the efficiency of the movement. The main plate and bridges are entirely open-worked and visible via the timepiece’s front and back.

Underneath a domed crystal, the Ivory-coloured dial is adorned with 18k rose gold leaf-shaped hands, a minute track, and rose gold-coated Arabic numerals. Elaborately decorated with 188 hand-finished components is the MB M18.69 movement, capable of a power reserve of 50 hours.

The watch is priced at approximately $40,000.

8. Breitling Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon (ref. RB21201A1L1P1)

Coming in a limited edition of 25 pieces, the Premier Chronograph Tourbillon is a heritage-inspired powerhouse that embodies Breitling’s most innovative legacy.

The timepiece is a reinterpretation of the original Breitling Premier watch from the 1940s and comes in a 42 mm 18k red gold case with a non-screw-locked crown and rectangular chronograph pushers.

The enchanting dial in British racing green has a distinguished two-tone finish and sets the stage for the exquisite tourbillon. The Star of the show takes center stage at 12 o’clock. An open sapphire crystal case back offers a gratifying view of the B21 movement where the reverse side of the tourbillon and the oscillating weight can be appreciated.

Other iconic details like grooves on the sides of the case, Arabic numerals, and vintage-inspired hands add elegance to the timepiece. It is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and matched with a gold-brown alligator strap.

The watch is priced at approximately $50,000.

9. Ulysse Nardin Torpilleur Tourbillon (ref. 1282-310LE-2AE-175/1A)

Ulysse Nardin is a Swiss luxury watchmaker famous for manufacturing complex and highly accurate marine chronometers. The Ulysse Nardin Torpilleur Tourbillon is a charming illustration of the Brand’s Haute Horlogerie prowess and its deep respect for heritage. 

The watch is complicated yet stunningly beautiful and is presented in an 18K rose gold case. The black enamel dial from Donzé Cadrans is nicely executed, and features rose gold ‘poires Roskopf’ hands that contrast against bold silver Roman numerals.  

A power reserve indicator is at the upper half of the dial, presented in a subtle recessed sub-dial with “BAS” and “HAUT”, meaning full and empty in golden print. At the base of the dial is the elegant flying tourbillon with an underlying anchor offering a clear view of the tourbillon cage.

The watch is COSC-certified, and the tourbillon is fitted with an escapement fashioned completely in silicon. Since silicon is high performing, the operation is smooth with little exertion and lubrication.

The watch is powered by the in-house Caliber UN-128, an automatic movement with 208 components that provides a power reserve of approximately 60 hours.

The watch is priced at approximately $60,000.

10. Zenith Defy Double Tourbillon (ref. 10.9000.9020/79.R918)

The Zenith Defy Double Tourbillon is an avant-garde piece with high-tech features that is both fascinating and rare. The carbon case measures 46mm across and has been constructed with ruggedness and durability in mind. 

Two tourbillons proudly occupy the entire left side of the dial. Both of them have been suspended from the PVD-coated open-worked bridges with chamfers highlighted in rose gold.

The tourbillon, which has taken over the 7 and 8 o’clock index, acts as the escapement for the watch. On the other hand, the tourbillon at 10 o’clock acts as an escapement for the chronograph and beats at an impressive 50Hz (or 360,000 VpH). This means it completes a rotation every five seconds! Mind-blowing!

The open-worked dial features large silver-plated hands, a chronograph power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, and hour markers filled with Super-LumiNova for enhanced readability.

Zenith’s high-frequency El Primero automatic movement with 311 components provides a power reserve of 50 hours. It is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and comes equipped with a black rubber strap with a blue “Cordura effect”.

The watch is priced at approximately $90,000.

11. Bell & Ross BR 01 Tourbillon

Bell & Ross might not be a very popular luxury watch brand, but its creation of quality timepieces for professional users such as divers and pilots has earned it reverence in the watch world.

The BR01 collection was launched in 2005 and has a lineup of mesmerizing watches with a design that resembles the classical style of cockpit clocks. The Bell & Ross BR 01 Tourbillon is a state-of-the-art timepiece with a large titanium case and black rubber bracelet. 

The watch is rather bulky but is paired with a very light case and comes with a relatively small crown that will not dig into the wrist. The timepiece is functional and incorporates four complications. A regulator and a five-day power reserve have been positioned at 9 o’clock, while a sub-dial for the small hours counter is located at 12 o’clock. 

At 3 o’clock is the optimum accuracy indicator, while the tourbillon with a black gold finish is positioned at 6 o’clock. Vivid red and yellow accents enliven the dial and add energy to the somber watch. 

The design is particularly bold, and large lumed applied hands and indices on the black dial keep the watch extremely legible and lively. The striking contrast of white on black means the time can be easily read at a glance anytime, anywhere. It is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and is powered by a manual winding movement.

The watch is priced at approximately $100,000.

12. Panerai Radiomir Tourbillon GMT Ceramica (ref. PAM00350)

Initially designed as a prototype at the request of the Royal Italian Navy in 1936, the Radiomir was the first special luminous timepiece for divers from Panerai.

The Tourbillon GMT Ceramica pays tribute to Galileo Galilei for his significant contributions to the fields of astronomy and science. “Lo Scienziato” means the scientist, and this timepiece is nothing short of what you’d expect from a reputable watch brand like Panerai. 

The watch is truly unique and comes in a 48mm wide imposing dark monochrome case that has been made from zirconium oxide. The case size means the watch is really large and solid, with a notable wrist presence.

The refined skeleton structure of the dial is highly legible, unlike many open-worked dials. Lumed Arabic numerals have been used for 12, 3, 6, and 9, while bar markers are used for the others.

The tourbillon is elegantly positioned between 9 and 12 o’clock and is astonishing with its unusual axis and fast spin of 30 seconds per revolution.

A small seconds sub-dial is at 9 o’clock, while a timezone day/night indicator is positioned at 3 o’clock. It is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and is powered by a skeleton hand-wound mechanical movement; the Panerai P.2005/Scalibere. 

The watch is priced at approximately $150,000.

13. Vulcain Tourbillon (ref. 620565Q18.BGK101)

The Vulcain Tourbillon Ref. 620565Q18.BGK101 is presented in a 42mm rose gold case with a thickness of 12.50mm which gives it an ideal weight and wrist presence. Vulcain is a Swiss watch brand with over 150 years of producing quality timepieces. Though not popular, the marque’s haute horlogerie prowess can be seen in this exquisite timepiece. 

The tourbillon, which is highly polished and presented with sharp external angles, takes the spotlight between 8 and 10 o’clock. The semi-skeleton dial is satin-like and features a circular charcoal grey texture enlivened by gold Arabic numerals juxtaposed with rectangular markers.

The dial’s symmetry is harmonious, with a black and gold tone-on-tone layout that adds profound elegance and style to the timepiece. Among other stand-out features, the watch is powered by the mechanical hand-wound Vulcain Tourbillon V- 62 caliber. It is a robust movement with an impressive power reserve of 120 hours.

The Vulcain Tourbillon is worn on a hand-sewn black Louisiana alligator strap which is secured to the wrist by a folding clasp buckle made of pink gold.

The watch is priced at approximately $100,000.

14. Breguet Marine “Grande Complication” Tourbillon (ref. 5887BR/G2/9WV)

The Breguet Marine “Grande Complication” Tourbillon is a true classic, with an extra touch of first-class sophistication. 

Breguet is renowned for manufacturing complex timepieces, and this one is an ode to the ingenuity of the Haute Horologerie brand. The state-of-the-art watch is termed a “Grande Complication” because it features a perpetual calendar, an equation of time, and the latest tourbillon.

Introduced at Baselworld in 2017, the timepiece pays homage to the appointment of Abraham-Louis as the official watchmaker of the French Navy. It was in 1815 that Louis XVIII, the King of France, appointed him “Horloger de la Marine Royale”. This timepiece preserves traditional techniques and reinstates Marque’s unparalleled patrimony in the sphere of uber-complicated watches.

The striking guilloche-peaked wave motif underscores the connection between the Marine line and the sea. It is adorned with rose gold moon-tipped hands with luminescent material and applied Roman numerals. The perpetual calendar is paired with the equation of time display. In a window between seven and nine o’clock, you will find a power reserve indicator.

A mechanical self-winding movement, the caliber 581DPE with 57 jewels and 563 components provides a power reserve of 80 hours.

The watch is priced at approximately $180,000.

15. Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Squelette 8 Jours Red Gold (ref. 6025AS-3630-55)

The Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Squelette 8 Jours Red Gold is presented in a 38mm 18kt red gold case with a classical Swiss design. The watch’s size might be a bit diminutive by modern standards, but the lugs are slightly rounded, ensuring a comfortable fit. 

Blancpain is a brand that is famous for its daring pieces in the horological arena, and the Squelette 8 Jours takes us right into the future. There is almost no dial, and the movement is what appears as the backdrop for the slenderred-goldd hands.

Inside the bezel of the contemporary-shaped case, a bold ring in black has red gold Roman numerals to ease time telling. The tourbillon is elegantly positioned at 12 o’clock, drawing deserved attention to the dial upon each glance. 

The power reserve indicator can be found at 5 and 7 o’clock, while at 9 o’clock is the rotary date indicator which is a very helpful feature for the modern man. The watch is splendid, easy to use, and houses the manually wound Calibre 1333SQ, a skeletonized movement with a power reserve of 8 whole days. 

The watch is priced at approximately $170,000.

16. Glashütte Original Senator Tourbillon (ref. 1-94-03-05-04-30)

Released in a limited edition of just 25 pieces worldwide, the Glashütte Original Senator Tourbillon Ref. 1-94-03-05-04-30 is a classic timepiece in the purest sense of the word.

The watch comes in a white gold case, measures 42 mm across and is perfect for a comfortable fit. The case features satin-brushed and polished surfaces with soldered lugs, faceted with polished edges. The varnish silver-grainé dial features a fine matte finish with blued steel hands.

A large date window at 12 o’clock reveals the date with the help of two discs of the same height that are separated from each other only with a faint arcing line. The date window is stepped and feels subtly abstract, adding a bit of depth to the dial.

The tourbillon is positioned at the base of the dial, and its rotating cage is framed by a clean track denoting the seconds.  An automatic movement, the Calibre 94-03, is visible through the sapphire case back of the watch.

It is mounted on a dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap, equipped with a foldover clasp in white gold.

The watch is priced at approximately $100,000.

17. Omega De Ville Tourbillon Numbered Edition (ref. 529.53.43.22.01.001)

The 43mm case of the Omega De Ville Tourbillon Numbered Edition is crafted from polished 18k Sedna gold and brims with notable grace and poise. The central part of the case has been brushed with 18k Canopus gold. Sedna gold is Omega’s proprietary pink gold, while Canopus gold is the brand’s proprietary white gold alloy.

The black dial is quite discreet, with a radial brushed pattern exquisitely executed with multiple layers that enliven the watch and give it profound depth. The design is luxurious yet modest, focusing on the tourbillon at the central part of the watch. The tourbillon is impressive, with a modernized cage made of black ceramic titanium and hand-polished bevels.

It is encircled by a fluted gold ring, which functions as a decoration and a small seconds track. Applied gold indexes and small faceted gold hands adorn the dark dial. It is powered by the robust in-house – hand-wound movement, the Omega caliber 2640. Being a Master Chronometer, the timepiece is highly accurate, durable, and resistant to shocks. It comes with a 5-year warranty.

The watch is priced at approximately $200,000.

18. Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon (ref. SLGT003)

The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon is a complex watch with an aggressive design that just puts it in a league of its own. 

The watch is the first complicated mechanical timepiece from Grand Seiko in its six decades of uninterrupted production and is nothing short of impressive. For the brand, it is its first mechanical tourbillon, skeletonized timepiece, and first constant-force mechanism watch.

It is arrayed with a sophisticated skeletonized, and delicately finished movement flaunting a tourbillon and a one-second remontoir on the same axis.

The case of the watch is constructed from 950 platinum and the Marque’s Brilliant Hard Titanium and measures a fitting 43.8 mm x 12.9 mm. The watch’s overall design is far from the familiar Grand Seiko layout and aesthetic but still enchanting and elegant.

The soul of the watch is the tourbillon and constant-force mechanism located at the base (6 o’clock). The rare mechanical complication combined on a single axis improves chronometry. The Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon is driven by the Calibre 9ST1, the first open-worked movement from GS from an aesthetic viewpoint with components that gleam in the light. It provides a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.

The watch is priced at approximately $350,000.

19. IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde (ref. IW504601)

The IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde is an incredible watch with a strikingly attractive design that is not loud or messy but contains a lot of information. The platinum case measures 44.2 mm in diameter and features a polished, beveled bezel with sloping lugs.

The refined appearance of the silver-plated dial is fashioned to maximize the interplay of light and is pretty much unadorned. The cleanness of the dial draws attention to the tourbillon at first glance, which is located at 12 o’clock.

The beautiful floating tourbillon is mounted on one side only against a dense background, allowing us to view the escapement and its mechanical sections below. As expected, the finishing of the highest standard with a decoration fits the movement’s geometric style perfectly.

The see-through sapphire crystal case back offers a generous view of the in-house 51900 caliber, a mechanical movement with 44 jewels, and an outstanding power reserve of 7 days (168 hours).

The watch is priced at approximately $130,000.

20. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph (ref. 103295)

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph is a distinguished watch that features a tourbillon, an ultra-thin BVL 388 skeleton movement, and a chronograph.

It is the world’s thinnest tourbillon chronograph and is presented in an octagonal sandblasted grade 5 titanium case with many facets. The look of the watch is spectacular and aggressively angular with a round bezel.

Bvlgari reasserts its dominance in ultra-thin watchmaking with this unconventionally slim timepiece that is only 7.4 mm in height.

The watch has a monochromatic look with a truly superb skeletonized matte grey dial, as sections of it have been done away with to reveal the tourbillon escapement and the mainspring.

There are no hour markers that might hinder legibility, but there’s a perfect amount of symmetry and organization in the way the dial has been laid out. 

The running seconds’ indicator is at 9 o’clock while the chronograph minutes is at 3 o’clock. The hands are skeletonized, and the tourbillon sits at  6 o’clock. Driving the watch is the Calibre BVL 388, operating at a rate of 21600 VpH with a power reserve of 52 hours when fully wound.

The watch is priced at approximately $170,000.

21. Chopard L.U.C Triple Certification Tourbillon (ref. 161929-5001)

The Chopard L.U.C Triple Certification Tourbillon is a wonderfully constructed timepiece with three certificates. The name is derived from the COSC (a timing certificate), Geneva Seal ( this is issued by the Canton of Geneva for timepieces manufactured there), and Fleurier Quality Foundation label. 

This last certification is one of the most stringent quality tests in the watch-making industry. For a timepiece to be FQF certified, it must have surpassed the reliability, timing, and technical criteria. 

The watch is presented in a contemporary-sized 43 mm platinum case with alternative polished and satin-brushed surfaces. The 8-day power reserve indicator sits at 12 o’clock while the tourbillon is at the base of the dial.

Black rail-track minute markers frame the dial, and it is adorned with applied Roman numerals. Thanks to two sets of double barrels, the calibre L.U.C 02.13-L, made entirely of 18-carat gold, provides an impressive nine-day power reserve when fully wound.

The watch is priced at approximately $150,000.

22. Vincent Deprez Tourbillon Classique Souscription Edition

Vincent Deprez is a French watchmaker known for making discreet yet beautifully executed timepieces in the most traditional way possible. The Tourbillon Classique Souscription Edition is an ode to the relatively young brand and reflects the goal of using mostly traditional tools and techniques.

The watch is made by hand using traditional tools and is finely executed with overall coherence and a lot of attention to each detail. The watch measures a wearable 39 mm and features an open dial with a 60-second tourbillon. 

A large sub-dial for the hours and minutes features a grand feu enamel that has been fired by Vincent himself. The tourbillon is somewhat large at 12.6mm in diameter and is framed with a second chapter ring at 8 o’clock. The proportions are classical; the visible main plate has a traditional frosted finish resembling historic high-end watches. 

Oscillating at a rate of 18,000 vibrations/hour is an in-house hand-wound movement with 15 jewels and a power reserve of 52 hours. Nothing is ostentatious, but the overall design is elegant and clean.

The watch is priced at approximately $100,000.

23. Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral (ref. 00.10920.03.13.01)

Famous for avant-garde complications and breathtaking designs, Carl F Bucherer is an independent Swiss watch brand with a rich tradition that dates back to the 1880s. The luxury watch brand has made its mark in the world of Horology and this unique timepiece showcases the brand’s signature complication.

The Double Peripheral Tourbillon is a complication that features a winding mechanism that does not rotate on the top of the movement. Rather than that, it rotates around the movement without obscuring the view.

Carl F. Bucherer has made the watch sophisticated and enchanting in that the tourbillon can easily be termed a super-flying tourbillon. The silver-colored dial of the 43 mm 18K red gold case is adorned with gold-plated indices and lancet-shaped hands.

The tourbillon is elegantly positioned at 12 o’clock and has a hand that acts as the seconds display. The cage has no visible bridges holding the device in place, but the weight is supported by three ceramic ball bearings that ensure a stable connection and smooth run. 

The pallet and escape wheel of the escapement are made with the anti-magnetic silicium allowing an increased power reserve of 65 hours.

The watch is priced at approximately $70,000.

24. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon (ref. PFH921-2020001-200182)

Parmigiani seems to be aggressively invading the hyper-competitive realm of sophisticated watches. From the Tonda PF collection that debuted in 2021 to this flying tourbillon released in 2022, the brand continues to surprise us with heavenly delights.

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon is an unconventional timepiece equipped with a flying tourbillon in a somber platinum dial that bestows undivided attention to the tourbillon.

The 42mm platinum case has a thin profile of 8.6mm with teardrop-shaped lugs and a screw-down crown that ensures 100 meters of water resistance. The flying tourbillon is positioned between 6 and 8 o’clock and is the star of the show, mesmerizing viewers with its mirror-polished screws that dazzle in the light.

The 18-carat gold delta-shaped hour and minute hands are open-worked and rhodium-plated. The indexes are short and are also crafted out of 18-carat gold and rhodium-plated. Encircling the main dial is a slightly recessed minute track denoted by short black lines. The watch is powered by Parmigiani’s ultra-thin automatic PF517 movement.

The watch is priced at approximately $160,000.

25. Cartier Drive de Cartier Flying Tourbillon (ref. CRW4100013)

The Cartier Drive de Cartier Flying Tourbillon is an exquisite watch with a retro touch that bolsters its refined look. The 47mm case is impeccably polished and compelling, with a shape that is neither round nor square but looks like a turtle shell.

The dial is an exquisite display of intricate guilloche finishing on a satin-brushed surface. The outer section of the dial is open-worked with black transferred Roman numerals that look like they are about to burst through the case. 

Underneath the hour markers, a white galvanized surface beams with a sunray effect. Pared down to the bare essentials, blued-steel sword-shaped hour and minute hands adorn the stark dial while the tourbillon occupies the base.

The flying tourbillon complication and C-shaped tourbillon carriage double as a small seconds indicator. Oscillating at 21,600 vibrations/hour is the caliber 9452 MC, a manual winding mechanical movement with a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. 

It is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and is certified “Poinçon de Genève”. This seal is a guarantee of authentication awarded only to watches with outstanding finishing and quality materials.  

The watch is priced at approximately $85,000.

26. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon (ref. Q1682410)

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon is an elegant and discreet watch that is presented in a refined 40 mm 18K pink gold case. The pink gold case is entirely polished with a thickness of 11.3 mm, which is decent for an automatic tourbillon.

The mechanically complex timepiece is charming, refined, and compelling. The beautiful dial is presented in an “eggshell shade” with a slightly grained texture. The hands are half polished and half brushed, while the hour markers are gilded and facetted.

At the base of the dial is the tourbillon. It is encircled by a small seconds track and showcases Jaeger-LeCoultre’s exceptional watchmaking savoir-faire. The bridge of the tourbillon is a rounded mirror-polished arm that crosses over the tourbillon cage, giving viewers a breathtaking view of the tourbillon’s ballet.

Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is the in-house Caliber 979G with 33 jewels and a power reserve of 45 hours. The watch is fitted with a brown alligator strap with a pin buckle.

The watch is priced at approximately $90,000.

27. Girard-Perregaux Laureato Tourbillon (ref. 99105-41-232-BB6A)

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Tourbillon is a masterpiece offering a supreme vision of elegance. The 45mm case is crafted from titanium and 18kt white gold, and the look of the watch isn’t one you see every day.

The dial is skillfully crafted with a matted gray of the same color as the case and an octagonal bezel is inserted within a circle.

The flying tourbillon, positioned at the base of the dial is the prima donna, enchanting the wearer with her outstanding performance. A lone bridge made of titanium sits across both sides of the cage, breaking up the congruous symmetry of the Clous de Paris pattern. The bridge resembles a double-headed arrow and supports the rotating tourbillon cage.

The watch is highly legible despite the tone-on-tone hands and indexes. Visible via the exhibition case back is the Calibre GP 09510-0002. It contains 33 jewels and provides a power reserve of 48 hours.

The watch is priced at approximately $110,000.

28. H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Tourbillon (ref. 3804-1205)

H. Moser & Cie. is an exemplar of haute horlogerie with a reputation for crafting exquisite timepieces with complications of the highest standard.

The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Tourbillon is a highly desirable watch in a stainless steel case measuring 42.8 mm across. The case is without flaws and features alternating polished and brushed surfaces. It also has a screw-down crown that bears witness to the 120 meters water-resistant capacity of the watch.

The gradient or fume dial is a beauty to behold, and the coloration is altered according to the light reflecting on it. It is decorated with clean, hand-applied multi-faceted indexes. At 6 o’clock is a large tourbillon which makes a full rotation every 60 seconds. An opening on the dial offers a first-row view of its beating heart.

Nothing is on the dial apart from the hands, indexes, and of course tourbillon. The H. Moser & Cie calligraphic logo finishes it off with elegance and style. It is powered by the in-house caliber HMC 804. This movement is fitted with a double flat hairspring and powers the watch for up to 3 days.

The watch is priced at approximately $50,000.

29. F.P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain Calibre 1403

Coming as a tribute to François-Paul’s earliest watches, the Tourbillon Souverain Calibre is a magnificent watch with an unconventional design. The timepiece draws inspiration from the brand’s first clocks and pocket watches and brings all the distinctive elements into one design.

One thing that is glaring when you take a look at this watch is how it dispenses with extreme care the tourbillon at 9 o’clock. Time is indicated on an off-centered dial that is positioned at 3 o’clock while the tourbillon sits in an aperture that has a complete mirror polished rim with a beaming countenance. 

The platinum case measures a fitting dimension of 40 mm across and features a fully polished finish, a domed bezel, and a flat crown. The background, which is noticeable on glancing at the watch, is the base plate of the movement as the watch has no dial. 

The base plate is finished with a Clous de Paris guilloché pattern. In addition to the tourbillon and off-centered dial, it houses a power reserve at the top and a deadbeat seconds at the base.

The timepiece is exquisite, smart, crisp, and eminently practical.

The watch is priced at approximately $180,000.

30. Piaget Polo Emperador Tourbillon (ref. G0A38041)

Piaget is a brand with over 100 years of extensive expertise in fine horology. The Emperador Tourbillon is one of the brand’s most enthralling creations that shows the Marque’s ingeniousness in terms of technology.

This timepiece pushes the boundaries of creativity with an ultra-thin movement that plunges us into the magical world of Piaget’s mechanics.

The watch comes in an 18K white gold case that measures 46.5 mm across —  it is a really large watch — with a thickness of 10.4 mm. The flying tourbillon movement sits in an aperture with a wide mirror polished rim at one o’clock. It has been conscientiously decorated and polished to the highest level. 

Something fascinating about this timepiece is the off-centered oscillating weight turned around to exhibit the micro-rotor in white gold. Piaget distribution of mirthful moving parts in the watch’s dial creates the shape of a Lucky 8 since the P-shaped tourbillon cage is opposite the micro-rotor.

The watch is priced at approximately $100,000.

31. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon (ref. 6000V/110A-B544)

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Ref. 6000V/110A-B544 is presented in a stainless steel case that measures 42.5mm in diameter. Its height of 10.39 mm, coupled with inward sloping case flanks, keeps the large watch snugly fitted on the wrist. 

The case is exquisitely finished with a brushed finish on the top surface and a mirror finish on the edges. The beautiful Laiton Générique CuZn dial features hands and hour markers crafted from 18k white gold. 

Both hands and hour markers are coated with luminescent material to ensure legibility during the day and night. The tourbillon at 6 o’clock has a cage inspired by the Maltese cross and performs one revolution per minute. It also serves as a small seconds display.

Visible through the open-worked case back is the Caliber 2160, an aesthetically pleasing movement with 188 parts that provides a power reserve of approximately 80 hours. Thanks to a peripheral rotor in use and not the ubiquitous central rotor, the self-winding movement is just 5.65mm high.

The watch features a quick-release mechanism at the lugs and is delivered with straps in steel bracelet, crocodile, or rubber.

The watch is priced at approximately $140,000.

32. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon (ref.26730BC.GG.1320BC.01)

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon comes in an 18-carat white gold case that measures a fitting 41 mm x 10.6 mm. The case and bracelet are finely brushed and polished while the bezel is finished with a new “frosted” technique.

The distinctive feature of the watch is found in the dial. The blue Grande Tapisserie dial has a breathtaking dimpled texture with a circular brushing that offers it profound depth and a unique interplay of light.

The flying tourbillon is visible at 6 o’clock through a round aperture on the dial. Since it has been secured only on its lower point, it does not have a bridge. As such, the tourbillon cage can be relished with no hindrance. The hour markers and hands are in white gold with a luminescent coating.

The watch is powered by the in-house Calibre 2950, an automatic movement with 270 components and 27 jewels. Its running time is approximately 65 hours when fully wound.

The watch is priced at approximately $350,000.

33. Patek Philippe Grand Complications Platinum Tourbillon (ref. 5316P-001)

Patek Philippe’s inventions are always state-of-the-art pieces. They always come with an understated elegance that bespeaks confidence and exclusivity. 

The Grand Complications Platinum Tourbillon is a beautiful watch demonstrating the Marque’s superlative watchmaking prowess. Everything is spectacular and refined, from the design to the construction and finishing.

The timepiece is termed a grand complication because it is equipped with a tourbillon,  a minute repeater, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar. The calendar is termed “instantaneous” because registers on the dial for the month, day of the week, and date all turnover in unison as soon as it strikes midnight.

The platinum case is 40.2 mm in diameter and just a little over 13 mm in height. The black enamel dial is adorned with gold-applied hour markers and faceted dauphine-style hands. At 6 o’clock, you’ll find the moon phase and sub-seconds with an arched date display right above. 

At 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock, you will find the day and month apertures. Unlike other brands that proudly flaunt their tourbillons, Patek Philippe has kept the tourbillon under the dial, concealing the wealth of the wearer.

The watch is priced at approximately $900,000.

34. A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon (ref. 730.079)

The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon Ref. 730.079 is presented in a 39.5 mm polished platinum case with a brushed case band. The glossy white dial is a pure interpretation of classical pocket watches from the 19th century and is dressed with blue steel hands. 

The red 12 index is a feature found on ancient pocket watches of the brand, and it adds a notable degree of gracefulness to the timepiece. The sword-shaped hour and minute hands reach out towards Arabic numerals, which have been fired and printed neatly with great diligence. 

Positioned just beyond the hour markers, a minute track with short black lines encircles the main dial. The one-minute-tourbillon straddles the lower portion of the dial and its presence animates the entire face of the watch. 

The watch features a Zero-Reset mechanism which allows time adjustment to the nearest second and a stop-seconds mechanism for the tourbillon. As such, the seconds’ hands can be reset to the zero position when the crown is being pulled.

A glance through the sapphire crystal case back reveals an excellently finished and decorated movement; the L102.1. It is a hand-wound with a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.

The watch is priced at approximately $200,000.

35. Richard Mille RM 47 Tourbillon

Richard Mille is an exclusive brand that focuses on the production of ultra-luxury Haute Horlogerie timepieces. Nicknamed the “Billionaire’s Handshake”, the watches from the Swiss watchmaker are famous for housing technically complicated mechanisms. 

The RM 47 Tourbillon was released in a limited edition of just 75 pieces after 4 years of intense work by some of the best horologists and craftsmen. Inspired by the philosophy of Bushido and paying tribute to the ancient samurai culture, this timepiece emphasizes extraordinary aesthetics and unmatched technicalities.

The watch is presented in a black PRP ceramic tonneau-shaped case with a 3N yellow gold case band and a black TZP ceramic bezel and case back. A single glance plunges us into Richard’s magical world of mechanics. A samurai armor at the central part of the watch has been crafted out of solid gold with artistic details painstakingly designed by the famous hand engraver Pierre-Alain Lozeron.

Among other stand-out features, a crossed pair of falcon feathers lies at six o’clock to immortalize the Asano clan’s heraldic Kamon. Overall, the design is luxurious, excellently executed, and enchanting, as you would expect from such a brand.

The watch is priced at approximately $1,000,000.

36. Bovet Ottantasei Tourbillion

You don’t typically hear a lot about Bovet very much. They tend to be a rather low-key watch brand in the United States. Just because they aren’t very well known, however, doesn’t mean they don’t deliver magnificent pieces like the Ottantasei. Bovet teamed up with Pininfarina to bring us the Ottantasei, combining the skills of both Houses’, allowing them to deliver on all fronts and make a truly exceptional piece. The Ottantasei’s goal is to be as light on the wrist as possible, with an aesthetic that matches the delicacy and luxury the watch emits. 

Featuring a 44mm case in 18k red gold, titanium, and platinum, the Ottantasei is truly an aesthetic stunner. Being a hand-wound watch, the flying tourbillion sits visible to the eye, with an open case-back and dial revealing the stunning intricacies and mechanical prowess the Ottanantesei offers. With four sapphire crystals, the transparent look of the watch is meant to demonstrate the high level of watchmaking that was used while giving a bold and unique look that compliments the Tourbillion quite nicely. 

The watch weighs in at approximately 15.54 g (for the titanium edition, at least), which accomplishes Bovet’s goal, giving us a lightweight, delicate-looking piece. The Ottansei only measures 12mm, and in the metal, it feels even thinner than that. Lightness, transparency, and elegance were in mind when creating the movement. With a Caliber 17BM03, you’re going to be comfortably ticking at 18,000 vph with a power reserve of 10 days. 

The Ottansei costs approximately $57,000

CONCLUSION

The tourbillon has evolved from a functional architectural device to a romantic emblem today, but it will forever remain a classic expression of high watchmaking.

It’s been over 200 years since its invention, yet only a handful of established watch brands have mastered the art of tricking gravity by use of a tourbillon. Less than that amount dare to provide a fitting tribute to this splendid expression of high watchmaking because of the complexity and high-end craftsmanship required.

As a result, these watches are always very expensive. Expect to spend from $15,000 to price tags that break the six-figure barrier for a Swiss-made tourbillon watch.

The most common word associated with watches these days is the word investment. People want to enjoy the benefits of wearing a quality timepiece and be sure it will always hold its value. 

As a watch enthusiast, the first thoughts that come to mind anytime I set my eyes on a watch are the cost of the timepiece and how much value they hold. These are the honest thoughts of any collector because as much as everyone loves a quality watch, the cost is a big hindrance to many purchases. 

Is Value Retention Important in Watches?

The meaning of value might differ from person to person. It might mean how much a particular piece costs and how much meaning a piece has to an individual. But when it comes to watches, the major factor that gives a watch value is how much it could cost in the future and, in this case, if the price would go higher or lower. 

I always advise people just getting into watches and trying to get an affordable timepiece to purchase watches from known reputable brands to get a piece of top quality and one they would enjoy wearing. 

Value retention does not play a role in this case. However, it is different when trying to purchase a watch that you can sell in the future for the same or a higher amount. In this case, the value retention of a timepiece is a very important factor.

What Makes a Watch Hold Its Value?

The cost of acquiring a watch is one of the qualities most people believe makes a watch hold value. From my experience as a collector, this is not always the case. There are lots of qualities a watch must have for it to be considered a timepiece that holds value.

Brand Recognition 

In all honesty, I won’t want to start telling anyone about my watch when I’m asked what I have on my wrist; I always want my timepiece to make a statement with just the brand name. The hype that comes with having a Rolex or a Patek Philippe is exactly what brand recognition means. 

The recognition a watch brand has is among the qualities that tell if a watch holds value or not because of the name such a brand has built for itself over the years. Watches like Jaeger-LeCoulture, Omega, Patek Philippe, and Rolex have been in existence for decades and are still known for not just their high costs but durability, quality, efficiency, and a whole bunch of other qualities that have kept them relevant to date. 

The fact that these watch brands have created a reputable name for themselves has kept them in the market for hundreds of years. Customers trust their products, which has increased their sales over the years of their operations. The recognition these brands have in the world of watches is a major factor that has helped most of their products hold value for a long time.

Watch Materials

After considering the brand of a particular watch when trying to acquire a new timepiece, the materials used in making the watch are one major factor that keeps me glued. The metals and crystals used for the casing are one aspect to be accessed when looking at the materials used to make a watch. Most brands say they use quality stainless steel, but some of them make use of alloy or very cheap steel for the casing of the watches.

The most common grade of steel found in top luxury watches are 316L and 904L steels. Materials like gold and titanium are used to case some top quality watches like the Omega Seamaster 300, crafted with grade 2 titanium and currently worth $9,500; the Rolex Day-date President with 40mm casing and up to 100 grams of pure gold, this timepiece costs up to $40,000.

Movement

One thing that blew my mind when I started getting into watches was the fact that the movement of a watch could determine the value associated with timepieces. There are two different movements in the world of watches, the Quartz that ticks every second and the mechanical watches with a sweeping seconds hand movement.

The mechanical watches are always more expensive than the others, mainly due to the effort put into the mechanism.

Watch Exclusivity 

A watch like the Patek Philippe Henry Grave Super Complication was a watch specifically designed for wealthy business people in the early parts of the 20th century. It was a pocket watch that had 24 different features, which took up to three years to design and five years to manufacture. 

This limited edition of Patek Philippe sold for $24 million in 2014 and held the record for the highest amount spent on a timepiece at that time. Aside from being cased in 18 karats worth of gold and having so many features, the exclusivity of this timepiece is the major factor that holds the value of this pocket watch to date.

Iconic Status

The story behind the creation of a particular watch or events, reasons, and experiences that surround a timepiece could categorize a watch as iconic. A good example is the Reverso collection from Jaeger LeCoultre, which was brought to life in 1931 to protect watches from being scratched or damaged during physical activities.

Various collections have come out of this brand, yet the Reverso collection seems to be the most popular one out of all of them, and multiple watches in this iconic line are very well known to hold their value.

Do Affordable Watches Hold Their Value?

As I mentioned earlier, the material used in designing a watch is a major yardstick for measuring if a timepiece would hold value or not. Every watch manufacturer wants to make a profit from the sale of their timepieces. That’s always the goal when trying to sell anything, right? And nobody would make use of very quality materials in designing a watch and sell them very cheaply because those materials cost a lot of money. 

So, there are no cheap watches that hold value, in my opinion. But when it comes to the world of watches and gauging from the cost of a lot of other timepieces, there are affordable watches that hold their value. I will give you a list of some of these watches and their specifications below. 

The Best Affordable Watches That Won’t Lose Their Value

1. Timex Marlin Hand-Wound (ref. TW2T18200)

Timex announced the launch of this hand-wound watch back in 2017, and it instantly became a hit due to the quality of materials used in the design and how cheap it was. This timepiece has a case size of 34mm with a thickness of 10mm. It has a lug width of 18mm with a water resistance of up to 30m.

The most attractive features of this watch are its excellent dress watch proportions, along with the hand-wound Seagull movement powering it. This leather strapped hand-wound watch is perfectly styled to carry that vintage look and only costs $200.

2. Omega x Swatch Moonswatch (ref. SO33G100)

This unique collaboration between Omega and Swatch came out in 2022 and took the watch world by storm. Its bioceramic case has a 41.9mm diameter and is built with two-thirds pure ceramic, and the other one-third is from a material obtained from castor oil.

This watch has the look of the Omega Speedmaster and can easily play the same role if you don’t have up to $6,000 to spend on a Speedy. The short lug-to-lug distance of 47.9mm makes it wear very well on most wrists. It does have a few shortcomings, including an acrylic crystal, but for $260, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a watch with a more iconic design.

3. Seiko SKX007 (ref. 7S26-0020)

This timepiece carries the look and price to make it the go-to piece for many watch lovers. Like most Seiko watches, it has a very masculine design with a 42mm in width, 13mm in height, and a 46mm lug to lug. The outstanding feature of this watch lies in its overall function.

It was manufactured to satisfy the ISO 6425 dive standard, which includes temperature cycling from -20c to 60c, getting hit by a hammer weighing up to 3kg, and a meter drop test, all done while maintaining its accurate time. 

This watch has a Seiko 7S26 movement which is the company’s cheapest movement and goes to show that designing a quality watch doesn’t always have to come with the most expensive materials. 

The designs on the minute, second, and hour hands add more to the aesthetic look of this watch. Seiko discontinued the SKX collection in 2019, and prices have increased steadily for a piece in good condition. If you can find one close to its original retail price of approximately $200, go for it, as it’s unlikely to drop any time soon.

4. Seiko Alpinist (ref. SARB017)

I set my eyes on this timepiece in 2022, and the attention to detail on the green dial really stood out to me. It has very bold numerals on the dial with cathedral minute, hour, and second hands. This Japanese watch is powered by a 6R15 movement that is very reliable and shock resistant with a water resistance of up to 200 meters. 

It also has a sapphire crystal which makes it very difficult to get scratched. This watch has a diameter of 39mm and a thickness of 12mm which makes it very easy to wear. This Alpinist watch is well-respected by many collectors because of the good features it has and still falls under the category of quality watches that you can buy for less than $1000.

5. Junghans Max Bill Automatic (ref. 027/4007.04)

The minimalist design and the overall look of this watch made me purchase this watch a couple of months ago. The dimensions of this timepiece include a 38mm diameter, a case height of 9.8mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 40mm. 

Junghans are known for their minimalist features, but the addition of sapphire crystals has added a little bit of sophistication to the watch. As simple as this timepiece looks, it is controlled by an automatic movement inside, the calibre J800.1. This watch currently sells for approximately $1,200.

6. Sinn 556 I (ref. 556.010)

The components of this watch make it a relatively affordable one, even in the range of $1000-$1500. From being hand-assembled in Germany and also having a Sellita SW200-1 movement, I consider this a very good buy. Aside from being an easily repairable watch due to its movement, Sinn watches are also known for their resistance to shock and cold. 

The timepiece has a sapphire crystal on the front and back and has a water resistance of up to 200 meters. It has a lug-to-lug distance of 45.5mm, a thickness of 11.2mm, and a lug width of 20mm. The dial of this watch has white text and a deep black background which matches the middle parts of the second, minute, and hour hands, giving them a floating look. 

7. Omega Speedmaster Reduced(ref. 3510.50.00)

Like most Omega Speedmasters, the Reduced has a very legible dial with a black background and white minute, hour, and second hands. The dial of the Speedmaster Reduced houses 3 sub-dials that serve chronograph functions for a 30-minute counter, a 12-hour counter, and small seconds. 

This watch measures 39mm in diameter and has a lug width of 18mm. The steel watch is powered by the caliber 3220, which is a self-winding ETA-based movement fitted with a modular chronograph mechanism and also has a water resistance of up to 30 meters. This timepiece has a Hesalite crystal at the top of the watch, which adds to its thickness of 12.3mm. This watch currently sells within the range of $3,000 to $4,000.

8.  Oris Pro Pilot X Calibre 400  (ref. 01 400 7778 7158-07 7 20 01TLC)

Pilot watches have a lot of features that make them appealing to a wide range of people. This timepiece was released in 2022 and comes in pink, blue, gray, and green colors. The watch is housed in a 39mm diameter and 12mm thick lightweight titanium case.

It features the in-house automatic Calibre 400, with 5 days’ worth of power and a water resistance of up to 100 meters. One feature that differentiates this pilot from some other ones is the see-through case back which allows you to see the artistic inner workings of the timepiece.

The serpentine-style three-link bracelet also adds to its look and makes a firm grip around the wrist. The watch has a simple dial with minute, hour, and second hands and also a date indicator at the bottom part of the watch. This timepiece is currently worth $4,300. 

9.  Tudor Pelagos 39 (ref. M25407N-000)

One of the standout features of the Tudor Pelagos 39 is its dimensions, including a diameter of 39mm, a case thickness of 11.8mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 47mm. This dive watch is powered by an in-house COSC-certified movement, the MT5400, and has a power reserve of up to 70 hours. The watch has a casing and bracelet made with grade 2 titanium and has a water resistance of 200 meters. 

The Tudor Pelagos has a black dial with white second, minute, and hour hands and also white and red texts within the dial which all light up in the dark. The complementary rubber strap that comes with this watch allows for a longer-lasting relationship with this watch, as interchanging them will prevent the watch from getting scratched. This watch is currently sold for $4,600.

10.  Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space (ref. 311.32.40.30.01.001)

This is one of the most popular Omega watches, and as the name implies, it’s an edition of the first Omega watch in space which is the Speedmaster 2998. An alpha-style hand is used for the hour and minute hand, while baton hands were used for the 12-hour and 30-minute sub-dial. 

This watch is powered by the Omega caliber 1861 hand-winding movement and also has a power reserve of up to 40 hours. This stainless steel timepiece has the date of October 1962 engraved on its back, which marks the Sigma 7th space mission. It has a lug-to-lug distance of 47mm and a thickness of 14mm. The cost of this watch ranges between $5,000 to $6,000.

11. Tudor Black Bay (ref. 79220N)

This model of the Black Bay has a 41mm case from side to side, just like the other ones. It has a lug-to-lug distance of 49.6mm and features an ETA 2824 movement with 38 hours of power reserve. 

This watch has a very classic dial, just like the ones found in old-school Rolexes, and even includes the original Tudor rose logo. The casing and bracelet of the stainless steel watch are well polished all around and have the inscription of Tudor at the bottom and in between the clasps. This timepiece costs between $5,000 to $6,000.

12. Rolex Turn-O-Graph Thunderbird (ref. 16264)

This is one of the later models of the Rolex Thunderbird, which was created for air force pilots back in the day. The watch is available in solid gold and stainless steel types. This timepiece is a late-80s, early-90s watch, so it doesn’t come with the fanciest features. It has a bi-directional bezel at the top, which moves freely without the usual clicks. 

This watch comes in different dial colors with bold indices and a tiny Roman numeral inscription at the top of the indices. It is a 36mm cased watch with a thickness of 11.5mm and a lug-to-lug distance of 44mm. You can find ones in good condition for around $7,000 to $8,000.

13. Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical (ref. H69439931)

Hamilton has been one of the primary watch suppliers for the US military for many years. Many of their pieces have rugged exteriors that fit the utilitarian vibe of the military and often come with unique features perfect for heavy-duty activity. The Khaki is no different. It is simple and reliable, and in the military world, that’s all it takes for a watch to be extremely effective. 

The case measures 38mm in diameter with a simple black dial and cream-colored numerals. A fairly simple aesthetic, but one that I find very attractive and communicates that vintage look of classic military watches. The Khaki is powered by the Hamilton H-50 hand-wound movement, offering an impressive 80 hours of power reserve while maintaining precision to make it efficient for everyday wear. 

This watch holds its value simply because of how durable it is. Its classic design makes it extremely desirable, and with an affordable price tag of $575, it makes for a fair investment opportunity. 

14. Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro (ref. S60-38ADA3-S0BB0-TBW)

Everybody likes to own a new watch without having to drain their wallet at the same time. That’s only one aspect that makes the C60 Trident Pro from Christopher Ward such a great option. Aside from its affordability at $665, the build quality and functionality are more than impressive.

This includes a modest case size of 38mm, reliable stainless steel, and a deep blue dial color that’s beyond bold. I hate to sound like anybody else, but it’s the beauty of the dial that made me take a second look at this watch. On top of that, I love the 600-meter professional water resistance, as well as the lacquered dial and polished indexes.

The bezel is functional and responsive, and I found a lot of satisfaction in the smooth winding of the crown. Other features that are important to point out include the anti-shock system, modest dimensions, and quick-release strap system. Overall, I find lifelong value in this watch due to its timeless features and style choices, which will always be relevant.

Conclusion 

From my experience as a watch enthusiast, the affordability of a watch varies from person to person. A particular timepiece could have all the characteristics of a watch that holds value and sell at a price lesser than it is valued at. Despite that, a lot of people would still categorize such a watch as expensive. 

However, it can be seen from the list above that there are quality watches of different ranges that hold their value, and these watches could be enjoyed by people looking to sell them in the nearest future for the same or a higher cost, and people just looking to enjoy the feeling of a quality watch.

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