Author: Ricky Dagand

After testing and reviewing several Grand Seiko watches, I’ve grown accustomed to a particular style—sleek, compact, and elegant. The pieces I’ve worn are mostly ones you’d expect to see on formal occasions. I wouldn’t call them dainty, but there’s definitely a refined, dressier feel to many watches in the Grand Seiko catalog. 

If there’s one thing Grand Seiko excels at, it’s evolving while maintaining its signature quality. To reach a wider audience, the brand expanded its collection to include sports watches that match the elegance of its dress pieces. At the same time, it continues to innovate, improving its in-house movements with precise complications like chronographs and GMTs. 

Since 2010, GS has gained worldwide popularity for its variety of sports watches. These watches have shed the delicacy of dress watches and adopted a more robust and rugged look, all while maintaining the elegance that made Grand Seiko the household name it is today. 

While browsing through a variety of sports watch options, one model stood out as a true champion among heavyweights—the SBGE277. I often associate Grand Seiko pieces with art, but I can’t overstate the brilliance that radiates from this exquisite watch. Much like a masterpiece in the Louvre, the SBGE277 can only be fully appreciated in person.

History

As touched upon earlier, the developers at Grand Seiko believed that to become a legitimate contender in the watchmaking world dominated by Swiss manufacturers, they needed to expand their collection. In 2002, GS produced an instant classic with the SBGM001. 

The SBGM001 was the first Grand Seiko model to feature the 9S56 movement, marking the brand’s introduction of a GMT complication. With its black dial and striking red GMT hand, this watch made waves upon release for its design, functionality, and precision.

The 2010s marked a new chapter for Grand Seiko with the launch of the Sports Collection. The brand expanded beyond dress watches, introducing chronograph and GMT models, including some limited editions. This shift into tool watches helped Grand Seiko break the mold and gain recognition in international markets.

After an impressive showcase at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, Grand Seiko kept the momentum going by announcing another wave of releases. Among them was the SBGE277, launched in May 2022. This timepiece boasts a commanding wrist presence, featuring a striking black dial and housing the remarkable in-house Caliber 9R65 movement.

Case

Every rugged dive watch requires a solid and durable case, and the SBGE277 delivers precisely that. As one of the larger GMT models in Grand Seiko’s lineup, it measures 44mm in diameter, 14.77mm thick, and has a lug-to-lug width of 50.8mm.

The watch’s double-domed sapphire crystal fits nicely into the case and doesn’t stick out as much, giving it a shallow, snug look. The screw-down crown is placed conveniently at the 4 o’clock marker.

Perhaps my favorite feature of this Grand Seiko GMT is the bezel. The last time I reviewed a GS GMT, it lacked a rotating bezel. It almost sounds childish, but as soon as I got my hands on the SBGE277, my fingers wrapped around the bezel and began rotating away.

The SBGE277 features a beautifully designed half-black, half-white bidirectional sapphire bezel. The action of the rotating bezel is smooth, and the satisfying click as it turns makes up for the silence of the Spring Drive movement. (Not to knock Grand Seiko’s innovative Caliber 9R66, but I have a soft spot for the ticking sound of traditional watches.)

As someone with a smaller wrist, the idea of wearing a GMT can be daunting. When I read the specs of the SBGE277, especially its 44mm diameter, I was already bracing myself for disappointment, expecting yet another oversized horological beauty that just wouldn’t fit.

But once again, I was proven wrong by the master craftsmen and women at the Grand Seiko Studios. The stainless steel case tapers inward, making the watch feel more like a 40mm than a 44mm. The curved lugs also hug the wrist, making the SBGE277 surprisingly comfortable to wear.

With a blend of Zaratsu polishing and brushed finishing, the SBGE277 offers the ability to track three different time zones and boasts 200 meters of water resistance. It’s the ideal combination of sporty and elegant—exactly what you’d expect from Grand Seiko.

Dial

Grand Seiko is renowned for creating dials that are nothing short of remarkable. Whether it’s the color, intricate details, or textured finishes, it’s no surprise that GS consistently delivers some of the finest dials in the industry.

Seeing a picture of the SBGE277 online doesn’t do it justice. I may be exaggerating slightly, but to truly appreciate the beauty and craftsmanship of this dial, you need to see it in person.

At the foot of the Hotaka Mountains lies the Shinshu Watch Studio, where Grand Seiko designs, produces, and adjusts all Spring Drive-powered watches. The SBGE277’s black textured dial is a tribute to this volcanic mountain range, inspired by the rugged beauty of the Hotaka peaks.

A bit reminiscent of the SBGE201 and its jet-black dial, the SBGE277 has a black dial filled with intricate details, staying true to Grand Seiko’s nature-inspired theme. Like the volcanic rock of Mt. Hotaka, the dial resembles obsidian, playing with light as it reflects off its surface.

The inner rehaut mirrors the outer bezel, featuring black and white odd-numbered markers. As expected, the silver Grand Seiko logo sits below the 12 o’clock marker, while the red GMT lettering and Spring Drive reminder in white are positioned just above the 6 o’clock marker.

The red GMT hand is a bold and striking feature, standing out beautifully against the black dial and adding an extra layer of visual appeal to the already stunning design. The hour and minute hands are exquisitely polished, while the seconds hand glides smoothly around the dial, thanks to the Caliber 9R66.

A power reserve indicator is neatly positioned between the 8 and 9 markers, providing a valuable reminder for when to manually wind the watch. Additionally, there’s a slim date window at the 4 o’clock position.

I saved my favorite detail for last. While a watch under light is beautiful, a watch you can rely on in the dark is even better. At its core, the SBGE277 is a tool watch, and its incredible lume ensures you can quickly tell the time, whether you’re diving or simply in a dark room.

The dauphine hands, indices at 3, 6, 9, and 12, and the outer bezel all feature LumiBrite for enhanced visibility. Thanks to the sapphire crystal covering the bezel, the luminescence extends around the edge, illuminating the watch’s notable and functional details.

Movement

With the high torque of a mechanical watch and the high precision of a quartz watch, Grand Seiko developed an in-house movement that combined the two mechanisms. Their creation would stun the world and solidify the brand as one of the world’s elite watchmakers. 

The Spring Drive movement was the result of a 20-year journey to create a watch that could be considered a representation of time itself. Silent and continuous, this revolutionary movement debuted in 1999 and set forth a groundbreaking new era for Grand Seiko. 

Round and round it goes, never stopping in a continuous flow—what am I? The answer to this little riddle could be time itself, but it could just as easily be the seconds hand on a Spring Drive Caliber 9R65 Grand Seiko, first introduced in 2004.

The SBGE277 is powered by the Caliber 9R66. The successor of the 9R65, the Caliber 9R66 is the first Spring Drive with a GMT compilation. 

Precision has always been a core goal for Grand Seiko, and the SBGE277 delivers with remarkable accuracy, offering a deviation of ±1 seconds per day and ±15 seconds per month. 

The crown plays a crucial role in the functionality of the 9R66 movement, allowing for manual winding to power the watch. As you wind it, the power reserve indicator on the dial moves accordingly, letting you know how much energy is stored. With a 72-hour power reserve, the watch can run for several days before needing to be wound again.

Pulling the crown to its second position allows you to adjust the hour hand independently, making it easy for travelers to set the local time without disrupting the sweeping hand.

With its unparalleled accuracy, time-hacking capabilities, and mesmerizing sweeping seconds hand, the Caliber 9S66 that powers the SBGE277 elevates this already impressive entry in the Grand Seiko lineup. The elegant yet bold design of the case, the layered, textured dial, and the seamless flow of the second hand all come together to create a cohesive and striking timepiece.

Bracelet

The SBGE277 features a beautifully crafted stainless steel bracelet, showcasing the classic Grand Seiko three-link design. The polished inner links contrast elegantly with the brushed outer links, creating a striking balance. From the side, the links appear rounded and polished to perfection, producing a stunning shine that adds to the watch’s overall appeal.

The bracelet is equipped with screwed-in links, making it easy to remove and adjust for a thinner wrist. And if the lack of links feels uncomfortable or looks unbalanced, don’t worry! The clasp offers four micro-adjustment settings, giving you extra flexibility to achieve the perfect fit.

The term “strap monster” refers to a watch’s versatility when it comes to pairing with different straps and bracelets, and the SBGE277 fits this description perfectly. Its design allows it to shine no matter the strap choice.

With the SBGE277’s 21mm band width, strap options may be somewhat limited, but the drilled holes in the lugs make swapping straps a breeze—and, if you’re anything like me, it can become addictive!

On The Wrist

The SBGE277 was one of the larger watches I’ve tested, and that’s exactly what drew me to it. Could I make this horological titan fit comfortably on my smaller wrist?

For anyone with small wrist syndrome, the answer is yes. Thanks to the engineering brilliance of the Shinshu Watch Studio, Grand Seiko has mastered the art of creating timepieces that are “more than meets the eye.”

Despite its 44mm size, this watch feels more like a 40mm on the wrist. I was genuinely dumbfounded by how comfortable it was once I got it strapped on, though it did take me a while to adjust it properly—something I’ll explain shortly.

The angles of the case allow it to sit snugly on any wrist. Thanks to the micro-adjustments, the watch stayed perfectly in place without sliding or shifting around. It felt nothing like I expected, which makes me wonder if the craftsmen and women at Grand Seiko specifically designed this case to accommodate smaller wrists.

The obsidian dial is truly a marvel, and at the moment, it’s my favorite. While I haven’t had the chance to test many watches, the SBGE277 carries a distinct attitude. It’s rugged, bold, and hefty. The more I wore it, the more I felt like this was the least “Grand Seiko” Grand Seiko I’ve worn.

The sporty nature of the SBGE277 allowed me to do something I thought I’d never do with a Grand Seiko—out of pure respect for their artistry and craftsmanship. I changed the strap not once, not twice, but five times, switching between NATO straps, leather, and back to the original bracelet.

I felt like I was committing a sin, but the truth is, the SBGE277 was a fun watch to experiment with (of course, with caution since this was a test run). It’s a stylish brute of elegance, and even when it felt less formal, the intricacies and details always reminded me that this was still a Grand Seiko.

Price

The Grand Seiko SBGE277 is being sold at a retail price of $6,200, with pre-owned models typically ranging from $3,800 to $4,000. This remarkable watch is currently available at Exquisite Timepieces.

Closing Thoughts

Shed any preconceived notion of the Grand Seiko dress watch standard. The SBGE277 is a Grand Seiko masterclass in pushing boundaries. It consistently offers something new to admire every time you wear it. If you plan to get your first GMT or plan to add another one to your collection, stop searching and consider this: the likelihood of wearing a GMT that is as technologically advanced and tough as the SGBE277 is very, very slim. If the black volcanic dial doesn’t pique your interest, the lume doesn’t spark something in you, or the Spring Drive fails to move you, then stick to your run-of-the-mill GMTs. The SBGE277 is a watch for those who know, and if you know, you know. 

Have you ever looked at something—a painting, a scene in a movie, a moment in nature during a walk, or even just a fleeting glimpse amidst the hustle and bustle of daily life—and felt completely inspired?

The master craftsmen and women at Grand Seiko have made a lasting impression on the watchmaking world with their nature-inspired dials, a hallmark of the brand for over two decades.

Since the release of the iconic “Snowflake” SBGA211 in 2005, Grand Seiko has consistently crafted beautifully colored and textured dials, each one as impressive—if not more so—than the last. As the dials have evolved in detail, the movements within have become increasingly intricate as well.

Grand Seiko’s mastery lies in its ability to blend aesthetic beauty with technical excellence, creating watches that evoke emotion and leave enthusiasts in awe. 

Its dedication to craftsmanship is evident in every timepiece it produces, from the intricate movements to the stunning, nature-inspired designs. A perfect example of this is the beautifully crafted, bamboo-inspired “Urban Bamboo” SBGJ259.

History

In September 2022, Grand Seiko introduced two more nature-inspired watches to its Heritage collection. Both watches are stunning in beauty and showcase remarkable micro-technological craftsmanship. They were released exclusively in the US.

One of these was the SBGJ261, featuring an eccentric blue peacock-inspired dial. The other is a more subdued, tranquil piece inspired by the bamboo gardens of Japan—the SBGJ259, the subject of this article.

Before discussing its beauty in detail, it’s essential to discuss the historical significance behind the SBGJ259’s case design, the “Grand Seiko Style” 44GS.

Seven years after the first Grand Seiko was released, Chief Designer Taro Tanaka realized that perfecting a watch meant not only focusing on precision but also making it aesthetically striking. This led to the creation of the 44GS design, embodying the philosophy that a timepiece should “sparkle with quality.”

The skilled artisans of Grand Seiko then began working on watches that featured flat surfaces and two-dimensional curves. The cases, dials, and hands were designed to be wide, distortion-free, and mirror-polished, resulting in the iconic look of the 44GS style.

In 1967, Grand Seiko released its 44GS with its “Grand Seiko style” case and established the design that would be the staple of their case production. In 2014, GS released the SBGJ005, a nearly identical remake of the 44GS model with a modern touch and the high-beat GMT Caliber 9S86. 

2022 marked the 55th anniversary of the 44GS, and Grand Seiko released several models, including the SBGJ259, in homage to the design that set the new standard.

Case

Now that we’ve covered the history let’s dive into what makes this legendary case design both mesmerizing and comfortable.

The “Urban Bamboo” SBGJ259 features a 40mm stainless steel case with a 46.2mm lug-to-lug span and a lug width of about 19mm. At 14mm thick, it may seem substantial, but this is due primarily to the domed sapphire crystal and the automatic movement housed inside. Still, it slides easily under a sleeve, making it suitable for dressier occasions.

It features an open case back that allows you to see the Caliber 9S86 at work. The screwed-down crown is at the 3 o’clock position with the famed GS logo engraved at the tip and is 100 meters water resistant. 

The true mark of quality is in the finishing and polishing of the case, beginning with the bezel, which gleams with the signature Zaratsu polishing that Grand Seiko is renowned for. The sapphire crystal that protrudes slightly over the mirror-finished bezel to protect it from any potential scratches. 

The case has multiple faceted surfaces and angles, all polished using the Zaratsu method, ensuring a clear, distortion-free finish that you can admire from any angle. The sloped sides of the case and bezel not only make the watch appear slimmer but also allow it to sit comfortably on the wrist.

Honestly speaking, this case needs to be seen in person to understand how incredibly detailed it is genuinely. Grand Seiko is known for its Zaratsu polishing, but on the SBGJ259, it feels like something brand new. The way light reflects off every angle and Zaratsu-finished surface is astounding. It is a light, compact case that emphasizes masterful quality and attention to detail. 

Dial

When I first laid eyes on the SBGJ259, I was immediately reminded of Grand Seiko’s deep connection to Japanese nature and culture. What I’ve come to understand about GS and the philosophy that drives their craftsmanship is perfectly reflected in this dial: meticulous and serene.

I also noticed similarities in texture and design between the SBGJ259 and other models like the SBGJ273 “Yuka Momiji” and the SBGH269 “Autumn”. While captivating in their own way, their red dials don’t convey the same sense of tranquility as the SBGJ259’s green dial. 

The “Urban Bamboo” dial was inspired by the Nezu Museum and Garden, more specifically, the bamboo garden path. The piece was made to pay tribute to the museum’s designer, Kengo Kuma. The vertical lines are meant to resemble the bamboo trees that grow around the museum. 

Under different lighting, especially sunlight, the dial reveals various shades of green and the intricate details within each “stem” of the bamboo design, enhancing its organic and natural feel. 

The silver Dauphine hands are Zaratsu-polished, multi-faceted, and complement the dial beautifully. The rectangular hour markers, including the dual marker at 12 o’clock, are also multi-faceted. This precision is achieved by artisans using diamond-tipped milling tools, allowing them to craft the finest details with incredible accuracy.

As a GMT watch, the inner chapter ring serves as a 24-hour scale, making it easier to track timezones. The even numbers are displayed in silver, while the odd numbers are marked with silver triangles. Beneath this, the minute indicators appear in white for enhanced legibility.

A bright silver GS logo rests below the 12 o’clock marker, followed by the Grand Seiko lettering in white. Above the 6 o’clock position, you’ll find reminders of the watch’s automatic movement and its high-beat 36,000 frequency, both in white, while the GMT lettering is presented in a yellowish-lime green, matching the GMT hand.

A sleek date window sits at the 3 o’clock position, framed in polished silver with black numerals on a white background. Each element of this watch stands out individually yet comes together harmoniously. While the dial is undeniably the highlight, it’s hard to overlook the way the seconds hand glides smoothly around the face, reminiscent of a hummingbird in flight. This dial exudes a sense of calm like no other watch I’ve worn.

Movement

How does this watch perform the way it does? In true Grand Seiko fashion, the in-house Caliber 9S86 is a mechanical hi-beat 36000 GMT that is yet another embodiment of the brand’s mission to craft a movement that is high frequency, accurate, and durable. 

The Caliber 9S86 offers an astonishing daily accuracy rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day and a 55-hour power reserve; these same specs are provided on its predecessor, the Caliber 9S85. 

The main difference between the two movements is, of course, the GMT complication integrated into the 9S86. The GMT hand tracks the home time zone, while the hour hand can be adjusted by pulling the crown to its first position, making it easy to set according to the local time zone when traveling.

Since the hour hand can be independently adjusted, it won’t interfere with the second hand, allowing for a quick correction without compromising the accuracy of the Hi-beat 36,000 movement. This means you can pull the crown, adjust the time, and the watch will maintain its precision.

I’ve mentioned the Hi-beat 36,000 several times without fully explaining it, so here’s the breakdown: Most mechanical watch movements operate at 21,600 to 28,800 vibrations per hour, which equals six to eight beats per second. 

Grand Seiko engineered the Hi-beat movement to run at 10 beats per second, or 36,000 vibrations per hour, significantly improving accuracy. This is made possible by Grand Seiko’s use of Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems (MEMS) technology, introduced in 2009, which enables the creation of highly precise components similar to high-powered semiconductors.

Thanks to the precision of MEMS technology, it produces parts that make the overall movement lighter, more durable, and significantly more accurate than standard mechanical watches. Leave it to the developers at Grand Seiko to continually push the boundaries, ensuring each timepiece isn’t just a product but a genuine advancement in horology.

Bracelets and Straps

The strap on our SBGJ259 looks like a mixture of a sports bracelet and a dress bracelet. It feels light and more flexible than most bracelets, but that seems to be the standard with most Grand Seiko bracelets. 

It comes in the Grand Seiko five-link design with matted large links, and Zaratsu polished smaller links. It also features rolled bevels and polished side faces. The contrast between the brushed and polished finish on the bracelets stands out when paired with the case. 

The bracelet is secured by screwed links and includes half-links on each side for adjustments, although the clasp lacks micro-adjustment holes. The clasp itself is a single-fold steel design with a twin-trigger release, and the GS logo is elegantly engraved on the satin-finished buckle.

With a 19mm lug width, the “Urban Bamboo” may limit your options for replacement straps. However, switching straps is made easier with drilled lugs for quick changes.

On The Wrist

The SBGJ259 is an absolute delight to wear. I don’t travel as much, but luckily, I had to take a trip to the other side of the country while testing out this beauty. It is a fantastic hybrid of a dress watch and a tool watch. I didn’t plan on going to the beach with the “Urban Bamboo,” but I thought since it was the last days of summer, why not take this bright, fun watch out in the sun?

I did not regret my decision whatsoever. The dial on the SBGJ259 shines under the brightest of lights. The shades of green, the faceted Dauphin hands, the Zaratsu finished case; all these elements came together in beautiful harmony. I basked in its near-holographic appearance and was entranced by the details of the dial time and time again.

This watch can also be worn for a special occasion. It is comfortable to wear with a long sleeve and doesn’t interfere with the outfit whatsoever. I had to wear it (I didn’t have to wear it, but when you’re given a chance to wear a Grand Seiko, you better take advantage of it) to a three-day work conference, and it never got in the way of anything except the workflow whenever someone noticed the dial and came up to ask what I was wearing. 

Light, compact, and elegant, the SBGJ259 is a great everyday watch for anyone wanting to wear a fun timepiece with revolutionary technology and a dial with a color that is rare in the GMT market. 

Price & Availability

The SBGJ259 “Urban Bamboo” is a US-exclusive watch with a retail price of $6,800. The pre-owned price for this piece comes out to around $5,000, according to WatchCharts. This watch is available today at Exquisite Timepieces. 

Closing Thoughts

This watch is different. Looking at the “Urban Bamboo,” I appreciated the time and craftsmanship that went into creating something so beautiful. This isn’t just a watch—it’s a work of art, as can be said for many of Grand Seiko’s nature-inspired dials. To me, the SBGJ259 is art in its purest form. If it can move you, stir emotions with a glance, or change how you view something, then it isn’t just a watch anymore. The SBGJ259 is a Grand Seiko masterpiece.

Here’s a bite-sized vocabulary lesson to start. The word “epitome” can be defined as a typical or ideal example. The word “elegance” means the quality of being pleasingly ingenious and simple. Many things in the world can be described as elegant, but when it comes to Grand Seiko and their relentless pursuit of perfection, their watches truly epitomize elegance. 

The inner workings are a watchmaking marvel of complex precision and expert craftsmanship, while the dials, perhaps its most distinguishable feature, could stand alone as its own art piece. Serving as homages to the landscapes that surround their studios in Japan, the Grand Seiko philosophy of “the Nature of Time” resonates through each beautiful design that the GS logo graces.

Ever since I got into the world of watches, I have gravitated towards the works of Grand Seiko. They have always felt like more than a watch to me; it was like seeing the culmination of a generation’s relentlessness in making something that is not only elegant but perfect beyond comparison. 

To see a Grand Seiko is to witness elite artistry in the form of a wristwatch; to wear one is an honor. I was lucky enough to wear and fall hopelessly in love with the Grand Seiko SBGW283, a beautiful dress watch with a stunning light blue dial commemorating Kishun, or the start of summer.

History of the Elegance Collection

Since its inception six decades ago, the Grand Seiko brand and its team of “Takumi,” or skilled craftsmen, have dedicated their livelihoods to the integrity of perfecting the everyday wristwatch. 

In 2019, GS launched its Elegance Collection, a dress watch line made for the most essential occasions in a person’s life with stylish subtlety. This line of watches draws inspiration from the first Grand Seiko, adding modern touches and mechanical brilliance that elevate the classic design to new heights.

In April 2022, GS introduced two new gorgeous watches to its Elegance Collection, celebrating the changing seasons from its Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi Iwate Prefecture- one of them being the SBGW283.

The Case

At first glance, the case looks like a Grand Seiko watch from the 1960s. Crafted from stainless steel, this model features a modest 37.3 mm diameter—remarkably small for men’s watches at the time of its release—and a thickness of 11.7 mm, making it an ideal size for a dress watch. The box-shaped sapphire crystal makes up most of its thickness. It only offers 30 meters of water resistance, which is appropriate for a dress watch of this caliber.  

The case has a 44.3 mm lug-to-lug spacing and a lug width of 19 mm. Due to the short beveled lugs, the watch sits low and comfortably on a small wrist like mine. Some people may find that lug width disappointing due to the limited options at 19 mm, but the chances of wanting to switch the original strap are meager.  

One of my favorite things about Grand Seiko is their crowns. Seeing that GS engraving before adjusting the watches sends chills down my spine. Hand-winding has always been one of my favorite aspects of mechanical watches, and Grand Seiko clearly understands the joy it brings. 

The crown is easy to grip, and the winding mechanism produces a satisfying sound. The case, finished to ‘sparkle with quality’ through the Zaratsu polishing process, features an open-case back, allowing a glimpse into the intricate craftsmanship inside.

The Dial 

When it comes to dials, few are as iconic as those crafted by Grand Seiko. Each dial is designed to be as marvelous as the landscapes that inspire the Grand Seiko studios. Whether it’s the legendary SBGA211 ‘Snowflake’ or my personal favorite, the SBGJ273 ‘Yuka Momiji,’ each dial brilliantly reflects Japanese nature and culture through its beautiful designs.

If you’re familiar with Grand Seiko, the SBGW283 may remind you of another model within the GS dress watch family. Its simple, delicate dial follows the same design as the limited releases from November 2021, inspired by the Genbi Valley. The three elegantly minimalist watches—SBGW273, SBGW275, and SBGW277—were crafted in homage to the Kirazuri painting technique, which imparts a subtle yet distinctive glitter to each dial.

Utilizing the same Kirazuri technique, the SBGW283 features a delicate pale blue dial that glimmers tastefully under any light. Inspired by the changing seasons—specifically the transition from late spring to early summer, known in Japan as Kishun—the GS artisans drew inspiration from the skies above Mt. Iwate just before summer begins. 

It’s worth noting that the SBGW283’s companion, the SBGW285, draws inspiration from Byōka—the transition from summer to autumn—featuring a rich, deep green dial.

The light blue dial is softly textured, and the silver accents provide a striking contrast that makes the dial stand out in a way that is neither bold nor understated. As mentioned, the watch interacts beautifully with light, creating a dynamic play of reflections. The angled bezel and sharp, Zaratsu-polished hands add to its mesmerizing appeal. 

The ‘Kishun’ doesn’t have a date complication but features second and minute markers, along with the iconic GS logo and Grand Seiko lettering at the 12 o’clock position. This dial exemplifies Grand Seiko at its finest—elegant and refined in its simplicity.

The Movement

Most of the time, people notice the dial first when looking at a watch. While beauty is subjective, a luxury watch captivates both inside and out. At Grand Seiko, the elegance of a watch is reflected in the simplicity of their dials and the complexity of their movements. Intending to create the world’s best watch, the experts at GS have developed some of the most precise mechanical watches, pushing the boundaries of watchmaking.

In 1998, Grand Seiko introduced its 9S mechanical movement, ushering in a new era of watchmaking excellence. GS celebrates not only its cutting-edge microtechnology but also the craftsmen and women who have honed their skills to ensure their mechanical watches perform with peak precision. 

These watches undergo a rigorous 17-day testing phase, during which they are evaluated under three different temperatures and six positions to meet Grand Seiko’s exacting standards.

The SBGW283 is powered by the Caliber 9S64, which Grand Seiko introduced in 2011 as one of their most straightforward mechanical movements. I use the term ‘simple’ lightly; this is still a GS movement with 183 meticulously tested components, ensuring both precision and durability. 

This hand-winding mechanical watch offers a three-day, or 72-hour, power reserve so that you can take it off for the weekend, and it will still be running accurately come Monday morning. It provides a mean daily timekeeping accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds and a normal usage accuracy of +10 to -1 seconds per day.

The Strap

An elegant watch would be nothing without the strap that keeps it on your wrist. The strap on the SBGW283 is just as beautiful as the watch it carries: an unstitched dark blue crocodile leather strap and a pin buckle with the Grand Seiko logo engraving on it, giving it a real vintage look. It offers a thick calf padding on the bottom so it lays comfortably on the skin. 

When considering potential issues with the strap, the only detail that comes to mind is the 19 mm lug width. As mentioned earlier, the options for switching straps are quite limited. Some owners have consulted Grand Seiko representatives about alternatives, while others have opted for oyster-style bracelets or beige-colored straps on their ‘Kishun’. 

Personally, I find it difficult to replace the factory strap, as I’ve enjoyed my time with it, and changing it feels like tampering with a recipe for success. The SBGW283 is a stunning watch as it is—strap and all.

On-Wrist Experience

My first ‘real’ watch was the Seiko SARB017, and at the time, I felt nothing could top it. But as with any passion, you keep looking around and eventually save up for that ‘big boy’ watch. Despite the many prestigious names out there, my loyalty remained with Seiko. So, when the opportunity arose to test out the SBGW283, I couldn’t contain my excitement.

At first glance, it resembles a vintage watch with its sub-38 mm case, crocodile strap, and hand-winding movement. But this is Grand Seiko at its finest—seamlessly blending classic style with the cutting-edge technology they’ve mastered. The watch is small and incredibly comfortable, fitting perfectly on my 5.8-inch wrist.

I must admit, in a hot and humid city like mine, wearing a leather watch can become a bit tedious. However, that’s a ‘leather strap’ issue, not a reflection on the watch itself. Seeing the dial gleam in the sunlight is breathtaking. The way light reflects off the textured design almost makes the pale blue dial appear silver from certain angles.

Although it’s a dress watch, I’d wear it to work just to watch the second hand glide gracefully around the dial. This watch is a conversation starter among those who recognize the Grand Seiko brand—which might sound pretentious, but the appreciation that grows for GS after wearing one of their watches is nothing short of a life-changing revelation.

Price & Availability

The SBGW283 is priced at $4,800, which is a fair value for a watch of this caliber and available at Exquisite Timepieces. With the same level of finishing and movement as some of the higher-end Grand Seikos, this sub-5k watch offers exceptional value for your money. 

Closing Thoughts

The SBGW283 ‘Kishun’ is a remarkable addition to the Elegance Collection. This classy, understated dress watch embodies Grand Seiko’s dedication to creating timeless luxury timepieces while perfecting the art of meticulous timekeeping. It feels comfortable and light, revealing new details every time you strap it on. 

At half the price of many dress watches from other brands—and even within Grand Seiko’s own lineup—it’s an absolute gem, both to admire and to wear.

The first thing I think of when I think of Grand Seiko, and perhaps many other watch enthusiasts, are their sharp yet subtle dress watches. And while the bulk of their collection showcases some of the world’s finest dress pieces, a connoisseur with a discerning eye would be foolish to overlook their impressive line of sports watches. 

Leave it to the expert craftsmen and women at Grand Seiko to create a collection of sports watches that stay true to their philosophy—a watch that demands attention with its ingenuity and elegance while catering to an audience of watch lovers who prefer to look stylish while active. 

Our case in point: the SBGE257—featuring three distinct complications, the groundbreaking in-house Spring Drive movement and a striking, forest green dial. This watch isn’t just another GMT, but a Grand Seiko GMT.

History

Since becoming a sub-division of Seiko in the 1960s, Grand Seiko has been committed to crafting luxury timepieces known for their precision and durability. Driven by a mission to create timeless, accurate dress watches with sleek, minimalist designs and innovative movements, Grand Seiko emerged as a strong competitor to renowned Swiss brands.

Although Grand Seiko became a household name in Japan, it had yet to make a significant impact internationally. Focused solely on dress watches, the brand needed to develop something equally luxurious and precise to appeal to a broader market.

In 2001, Grand Seiko introduced its first GMT watch, the SBGM001, marking a new era for the brand. The success of the SBGM001 helped Grand Seiko reach a wider audience, showcasing its advanced mechanical prowess. This breakthrough led to the launch of the Sports Collection in 2014, which included chronographs, diver watches, and GMTs.

In July 2020, to celebrate its 60th anniversary, Grand Seiko introduced several commemorative pieces, including three new GMTs in their Sports Collection: the black SBGE253, the blue SBGE255, and the aforementioned green SBGE257. 

Each watch features the 9R66 Spring Drive movement and a perfectly matched bezel. Still, the SBGE257, in particular, captures the essence of paying homage to Japanese nature with its lush green dial—a proper tribute to Grand Seiko’s legacy of precision and elegance.

Case

It’s well known that GMT watches tend to be larger and thicker than other timepieces. Accommodating this famous complication usually requires a bigger case, with most GMTs falling within the 40mm to 44mm diameter range. At first glance, the SBGE257 may appear prominent and bulky, which could be intimidating to those with smaller wrists, like myself.

But I was pleasantly surprised once I got it fitted and planted this glorious piece on my wrist. Compared to 2019’s SBGE248 and 2023’s SBGE295G, which are 44mm in diameter, the SBGE257 is 40.5mm with a 48.7mm lug to lug, making this one of Grand Seiko’s most compact GMTs. 

Now, if you are looking into buying this watch but find its thickness alarming, I can understand. At 14.7mm thick, you’d start to wonder just how it’d look and feel when wearing it. 

But this is where Grand Seiko excels with its expert craftsmanship. With angled bevels and their Zaratsu-polished finishing, the stainless steel SBGE257 shines and distorts to make those extra millimeters disappear once on your wrist. 

The case’s curves and lugs’ shapes allow the watch to sit comfortably on the wrist, compensating for the domed sapphire crystal on top, which makes up most of the case’s thickness. 

Although the case back does not reveal the intricacies of the 9R66 movement, it has the beautiful Grand Seiko lion logo engraved and indicates that this watch is 200 meters water resistant. 

The standout feature of the case is the striking green ceramic fixed bezel with 24-hour markers for the GMT complication. Notably, the bezel and sapphire crystal are highly scratch-resistant, making this watch ideal for everyday wear. The crown positioned at 4 o’clock offers comfort and accessibility, whether worn on the left or right wrist.

Dial

Before I had the chance to wear the SBGE257, I read reviews describing the dial as ‘poetic,’ and I have to agree. Perhaps it’s my own poetic side, but there’s an undeniable beauty in the lush green dial that pays homage to the 2,000 types of moss covering Japan’s trees and stones. If Grand Seiko’s philosophy is ‘nature in time,’ then this moss-inspired dial perfectly honors something timeless—much like moss in nature, much like time itself.

I digress. There’s so much to love about this dial. The green shifts in shades depending on the lighting, transitioning from light green to dark green and even to black. Some might describe it as a matte forest green, and with its sunburst finish, it’s hard not to be captivated by its ever-changing color.

Speaking of captivating, I was in awe of the detail Grand Seiko added to the hour indices. The craftsmanship is renowned for its obsessive perfection, but the intricacies of these markers blew me away. I loved how the light reflects and refracts off the meticulously polished lines.

The hour and minute hands are beautifully brushed and polished in a silver finish, while the GMT hand, painted in gold, perfectly complements the deep green dial.

The markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9, along with the hour, minute, and GMT hands, feature bright lume, making it easy to tell the time in the dark.

Adding to the outer bezel is the inner rehaut, half green and half silver, featuring the odd numbers of the 24-hour markers. This compensates for the lack of a rotating bezel and makes the watch easier to read.

Positioned between the 8 and 9 o’clock markers is the power reserve indicator—a subtle yet practical feature that lets you know how much longer the watch will run before the mainspring needs winding. 

A date marker is located at 4 o’clock, while the classic Grand Seiko logo, in matte silver, sits just below the 12 o’clock marker. Below the 6 o’clock position, gold lettering highlights the watch’s GMT function, perfectly matching the GMT hand, along with a reminder that this timepiece is powered by a Spring Drive movement.

Although these elements may sound like they could overcrowd the dial, everything is thoughtfully arranged, allowing each feature to be appreciated both individually and as part of a beautifully cohesive design.

Movement

I didn’t mention the seconds hand earlier because the magic of its smooth, sweeping motion deserves to be discussed alongside the innovative Spring Drive 9R66 caliber movement. As with most Grand Seiko pieces, let’s first delve into a bit of history.

For Grand Seiko, the goal was always to create the most precise and accurate mechanical watch in the world. What might seem like a competition with Swiss watchmakers is Grand Seiko pushing the boundaries of what a mechanical watch can achieve.

This drive led Yoshikazu Akahane to envision a way to combine the traditional mechanical movement with the precision of a quartz movement, a technology that had seen great success in 1969 with the Caliber 35A. Akahane began his work in 1977, inspired by the sight of a bicycle coasting downhill while braking. He believed that the bike’s steady, constant speed could be applied to a watch, and so his journey began.

True to Grand Seiko’s patient and meticulous approach, his work remained behind the scenes until 1998, when the Spring Drive was finally unveiled at the Basel Watch Fair in Switzerland. The innovation made waves with its continuously smooth seconds hand, free of stutter or ticking. Sadly, Akahane passed away before its debut, but his work remains a testament to Grand Seiko’s relentless pursuit of perfection.

The SBGE257 uses a 9RSS caliber movement, which debuted in 2006 and was the first Spring Drive movement with a GMT complication. It is an automatic movement with manual winding capability and a time-hacking function. The accuracy is a staggering ±1 seconds per day and ±15 seconds per month and features a 72-hour power reserve. 

How the Spring Drive operates deserves an article of its own, and while our fellow writer Micheal Brown gives a fantastic description of how this movement works, I’ll try to describe it briefly. 

According to Grand Seiko, the Spring Drive is neither mechanical nor quartz; it is a “mechanical watch having accuracy equivalent to a quartz watch.” Like a mechanical watch, the Spring Drive is powered by a mainspring but is kept in perpetual motion by a Tri-synchro regulator. 

As the wound mainspring is unwound, the unwinding powers the gear train via the oscillator, which vibrates at 32,768 Hz to move the hands—no battery is necessary. The generated electricity powers an integrated circuit, or IC, which detects the speed of the glide wheel and applies an electromagnetic brake. 

My explanation doesn’t fully capture the intricacies of this groundbreaking achievement in watchmaking. Grand Seiko didn’t just create a movement that competes with the best of Swiss watchmaking; they elevated the standard, setting themselves levels above the competition.

Bracelet

The bracelet beautifully matches the case of the SBGE257. It features Grand Seiko’s five-link design, with a polished finish on the bigger links and Zaratsu finishing on the smaller ones. The sides have a polished bevel, making the bracelet feel and look almost like it has a matte finish. 

Like most of the GS bracelets, there are removable links attached by screws. It also features half links and four divots to help with any micro adjustments necessary, which helps out for someone with a smaller wrist. 

It has a three-fold clasp with a twin trigger release, so the watch won’t pop open unless it’s pressed down on both sides. 

With a bandwidth of 20mm, the possibility of replacing the stainless steel bracelet on this watch is endless, but personally, I wouldn’t. It takes away from the watch as a whole. That said, I have heard folks talk about making this piece feel sportier by strapping on a NATO and even a leather strap. 

On The Wrist

The SBGE257 has been one of the most exciting watches I’ve enjoyed wearing. Initially, I had doubts about its size and thickness, but after a few hours and some adjustments, it felt right at home on my wrist.

This is an excellent watch for everyday use. It doesn’t feel heavy or hinder my daily activities. Typically, you want a watch to be so light that you forget it’s there. That wasn’t the case with the SBGE257—and I mean that in the best way possible.

Having tested lighter and slimmer Grand Seiko pieces, this one stands out as an attention-getter. It’s a bright watch, full of reflections under the right lighting, and it’s hard not to become mesmerized by the smooth sweep of the Spring Drive movement.

This watch has a peaceful, almost quaint quality. Its lush green dial, continuously moving seconds hand, and shiny ceramic bezel create a captivating presence. At 40mm, it’s a perfect fit for both small and larger wrists.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko SBGE257 retails for $6,200, while pre-owned pieces can cost between $3,500 and $4,000. This stunning watch is now available at Exquisite Timepieces. 

Closing Thoughts

Wearing the SBGE257 is like wearing a piece of horological evolution. This isn’t just an ordinary watch. With its GMT complication, it’s already a bit more special, but to truly appreciate what’s on your wrist, you need to understand the history behind Grand Seiko.

Here come the poetics again: the story of Yoshikazu Akahane and his ambitious vision of a perfectly flowing watch, Grand Seiko’s philosophy of “the natural flow of time,” and the moss-colored dial—all these elements are compiled into a 40mm timepiece that could be considered one of Grand Seiko’s finest creations. The SBGE257 is a piece of watchmaking eternity, destined to stand the test of time.

When does wearing a watch stop being just part of a man’s wardrobe and become more a part of his being? This burning question has many layers, starting with the type of watch one chooses. Diver or field watch? Leather strap or NATO? Perhaps the first essential question any budding watch enthusiast asks is, “Which hand is the correct one to wear my watch on?” While the question is valid, the answer is very much subjective. 

One must consider practicality and comfort when wearing a watch, so choosing the wrist to wear your timepiece is not only an aesthetic decision but also one of functionality. So fret not! There are no complex rules in this wide world of watches—the person wearing the piece decides which hand it goes on. Left wrist, right wrist, even double wrist—the choice comes down to what’s comfortable and stylish for you.

What Wrist Does a Man Wear a Watch On?

History shows that, due to the majority of the population being right-hand dominant, watches “should” be worn on the left wrist. Whether it be 18th-century aristocrats or fountain pen connoisseurs of the 20th century, the notion has been passed down that wearing a watch on your dominant hand will get in the way of daily activities and risk potentially damaging the watch.

Considering the fact that 90% of the world is right-handed, it’s no surprise that the “norm” is to wear the watch on the left wrist. But “norms” aren’t rules, and when it comes to watches, one must wear them in a way that best suits them. I’m right-handed and wear my watches on my left wrist since I’m typing, writing, or using a mouse during my workday. 

On the other hand, my dad, who works on plane engines, wears his watch on his dominant right hand. He’s always found it more comfortable for reasons I’ll never fully understand.

Things to Consider When Choosing Which Wrist to Wear a Watch

Most watches are made with right-handers in mind, meaning that the crown and other controls are on the right side of the watch, making it easier to wear on the left wrist. Setting the time with your watch on your right hand could force you into an uncomfortable position while trying to use the crown. It’s important to remember that a watch is also a tool. 

If you wear a watch daily, you should wear it efficiently and according to your surroundings. Wearing a watch on your dominant hand increases the risk of it bumping into something or getting scratched, whereas the non-dominant hand is typically used less, reducing that risk.

Best “Destro” Watches for Lefties

The watch market has traditionally catered more to its right-handed audience. That was until companies started thinking of the 10% of left-handed watch lovers who dreamt of a more comfortable watch-wearing experience. Left-handed watches, or “destro,” which is Italian for “right,” were designed for those who prefer wearing their pieces on the right wrist by placing the crown and functions on the left. Here are the best “destro” watches for lefties.

Rolex GMT-Master II (ref. 126720VTNR)

Rolex’s contribution to the “destro” community debuted in 2022, leaving audiences in awe. Quickly nicknamed the “Sprite,” this left-hand-drive watch comes with a green and black bezel and everything else you’d expect from a Rolex GMT II: an automatic 3285 movement with a 72-hour power reserve. The main difference is that the crown and date display are placed at 9 o’clock for better access when wearing them on the right hand. It’s an absolute gem of a watch, especially when paired with a jubilee bracelet, with prices starting at around $18,000 after retail.

Tudor Pelagos LHD (ref. M25610TNL-0001) 

An essential dive watch for lefties, the Tudor Pelagos LHD features a 42-mm titanium case, a unidirectional rotating matte black ceramic bezel with 60-minute markers, a black dial, and Tudor’s signature snowflake hands. Starting at $5,000, this watch includes a special clasp that adjusts on the wrist depending on the depth, a helium escape valve, and 500 meters of water resistance.

TAG Heuer Monaco Lefty (ref. CAW211P.FC6356)

We can never be as cool as Steve McQueen, but you can come close by getting the limited-edition TAG Heuer Monaco Lefty worn by McQueen himself in the 1971 movie Le Mans. This 39mm square-cased chronograph is a unique marvel in racing watches. It has a beautiful blue dial with silver and red accents, held together by a black leather strap. It’s available on the TAG Heuer website for $8,100.

Zenith El Primero Pilot Lefty Chronograph (ref. 03.2117.4002/23.C704): 

Like lefties themselves, Zenith El Primero Pilot Lefty Chronograph watches are rare. In fact, finding a price online for this limited-edition piece is nearly impossible. It’s a 42mm Pilot edition of the El Primero series with a large black dial and a date marker at the 6 o’clock position. The El Primero Pilot Lefty was the first of its kind for Zenith, released in 2011, and hasn’t been re-released since. But it’s still a sought-after watch that has critics and fans yearning for Zenith to revive it.

Oris Aquis Red Limited Edition (ref. 01 733 7653 4183-Set RS): 

Oris has a philosophy that reads, “Swiss watchmaking for everyone,” and they doubled down on that statement by releasing the Aquis Red Limited Edition. This special edition watch was made for left-handed dive watch lovers at a modest price of $2,000. The Aquis Red Limited Edition comes in a 43mm stainless steel case with a unidirectional rotating black ceramic bezel with red accents, a black dial with white and red markers, and a bright lume that solidifies its status as a dive watch. With 300-meter water resistance, Oris has had collectors clawing at the chance to add this now-discontinued piece to their collections.

In Short

The watch itself is a personal preference, and the hand on which you choose to wear it is also up to you. The unwritten rules are just that—unwritten. There’s no point in following a guide on wearing a watch if it doesn’t feel comfortable on your wrist. Let your personality shine through the watch. Perhaps you’re the classic man who wears it on his left hand. Maybe you want to break the mold and rock the watch on your right wrist. There will be no gasps or nasty looks, I promise. For the lefty community, there are some fantastic watch options. But remember this: no watch is exclusive to a specific hand; wear your watch as you please.