Author: Ricky Dagand

It’s common to find oneself longing for something just out of reach. Whether due to timing, circumstance, or practicality, the weight of temptation can feel almost unbearable. Nowhere is this truer than in the world of watch collecting.

With the exaggeration aside, let’s get to the point. High-end watches are undeniably expensive. Even in the pre-owned market, prices can be steep, making it challenging for seasoned collectors to find a good deal. But what if there were an entry-level option? A chance to experience a taste of luxury at a more modest price?

The Grand Seiko SBGP009 is an excellent entry point for those seeking luxury and precision without breaking the bank. This model demonstrates Grand Seiko’s dedication to perfecting quartz technology in a landscape where mechanical watches often dominate. 

It combines the best of the original quartz innovations with a fresh, modern design—offering a high-end experience at a fraction of the cost compared to their mechanical counterparts.

History

Although the first quartz-powered Grand Seiko debuted in 1988, the brand’s commitment to quartz technology dates back much further—nearly to the luxury brand’s inception. 

These early advancements would eventually inspire the team at Grand Seiko to craft a quartz-powered experience that redefined accuracy and precision, showcasing the brand’s dedication to innovation.

In 1969, Seiko made history by introducing the world’s first quartz-powered wristwatch, the Seiko Quartz Astron. Its debut showcased quartz’s superior accuracy compared to traditional mechanical watches. 

While the Quartz Astron wasn’t a Grand Seiko release, it set the stage for innovations that would eventually lead to Grand Seiko’s pursuit of the most accurate and precise quartz timepieces in the world.

About twenty years later, Grand Seiko released its first quartz watch, the 95GS. This model quickly set itself apart as the best quartz watch on the market, thanks to distinct upgrades made by Grand Seiko’s in-house developers, including an impressive accuracy of  +/-10 seconds a year. These upgrades highlight their commitment to precision and innovation, establishing the 95GS as a benchmark in quartz technology.

In its ongoing quest to create the world’s finest quartz watch, Grand Seiko introduced the Caliber 9F in 1993. This movement boasted key advancements, including mechanisms to minimize seconds-hand shuddering and ensure precise alignment with the markers, as well as an instant date-change feature. 

These impressive innovations established the 9F as a top-tier quartz movement, underscoring Grand Seiko’s commitment to precision and quality.

The 9F8 and 9F6 series of the 1990s underscored just how committed the Grand Seiko team was to elevating their quartz watches. They focused on making the movements as precise as possible while also designing the watches for comfort and ease of use. 

With these innovations, Grand Seiko propelled the status of quartz watches to new heights, demonstrating that quartz technology could offer both accuracy and luxury in equal measure.

The SBGP009 exemplifies Grand Seiko’s dedication to quartz innovation within the Heritage Collection. Released in 2020 as part of the 60th-anniversary Time-Only collection, it celebrates six decades of watchmaking excellence. 

Powered by the Caliber 9F85 and housed in the iconic 44GS case, it combines historical significance with modern advancements. Its champagne-colored dial adds a refined touch, making it an excellent choice for anyone seeking high-end quartz in a timeless design.

Case

The SBGP009 is housed in the vintage-inspired 44GS case, measuring 40mm in diameter, with a 47mm lug-to-lug width and a slim profile at 10.6mm thick. This classic design nods to Grand Seiko’s heritage while offering a comfortable fit for everyday wear.

The Grand Seiko Style watch belongs to the Heritage Collection, a fitting choice considering its case design. After the 1997 9F6 series introduced refined surfaces and enhanced comfort, Grand Seiko’s 2020 quartz lineup paid homage to the original 1967 case design, blending classic elements with modern craftsmanship.

The case’s curves and angles are designed to slant inward, allowing it to rest comfortably on the wrist. The inward-curved lugs also feature drilled holes, making it easy to switch out straps for a customized look.

The finishing on this watch is impeccable, embodying Grand Seiko’s philosophy that their timepieces should “sparkle with quality.” The skilled artisans at Grand Seiko have perfected the art of Zaratsu polishing, resulting in a mirror-like reflection that truly brings the watch to life. 

This meticulous finishing enhances the watch’s elegance and exemplifies the brand’s commitment to precision and craftsmanship.

The SBGP009 boasts a domed sapphire crystal over the dial and a mirror-polished bezel, with Zaratsu polishing across the case for that distinct Grand Seiko shine. 

The robust 11mm crown, positioned at 3 o’clock for easy grip, is semi-recessed to avoid wrist discomfort. With 100 meters of water resistance, this watch is a versatile choice for daily wear.

Dial

The SBGP009’s champagne sunburst dial truly evokes the elegance of the gilded era, reflecting light in a way that adds depth and warmth. It’s a perfect example of how Grand Seiko blends modern craftsmanship with classic, timeless aesthetics. 

The case beautifully complements the dial, featuring a polished bezel that enhances the dial’s design and makes it stand out even more. From a distance, the SBGP009 presents itself with that classic champagne hue. But as you bring it closer for a better look, the dial reveals a subtle gold shade, adding an unexpected layer of elegance.

A notable aspect of the SBGP009’s dial is its clean, uncluttered design. Unlike other models, it lacks additional details like lettering above the 6 o’clock marker or a power reserve indicator. 

Instead, the dial simply features the GS logo, which harmonizes with the champagne color, and “Grand Seiko” is elegantly printed in black. This minimalist approach highlights the watch’s refined aesthetic, allowing the essential details to stand out.

The hour and minute hands are beautifully faceted and expertly polished, with a flawless Zaratsu finish. Grand Seiko ensured this watch could handle the iconic dauphine hands by upgrading the movement (more on that later). 

The sharp angles and meticulous polishing add an extra layer of elegance, enhancing the overall sophistication of the design.

In addition to the hands, the hour markers are also highly faceted and polished, contributing to the watch’s refined appearance. The markers at 12, 6, and 9 o’clock are slightly wider, creating a balanced aesthetic. At 3 o’clock, you’ll find the date window, which seamlessly integrates into the design without disrupting the dial’s clean layout. 

The SBGP009 seamlessly blends elegance with advanced technology. Its Caliber 9F85 movement ensures that the second hand moves with flawless precision, landing exactly on each marker. Simple, graceful, and precise, this watch is a true pleasure to behold.

Movement

The Caliber 9F85, which debuted in 2020 for Grand Seiko’s 60th anniversary, represents a significant evolution in their quartz technology. 

Designed to phase out the 9F82, which had been in production since 2003, this movement encapsulates Grand Seiko’s commitment to refining quartz precision while celebrating its legacy. The SBGP009 is a perfect blend of tradition and innovation, honoring the past while advancing into the future.

Grand Seiko’s mission was to craft a quartz-powered watch that combined perfect accuracy with exceptional durability. Driven by this goal, their craftsmen and women worked tirelessly to elevate the quartz watch to a level worthy of being called a “luxury timepiece.”

The 9F85 movement, like its predecessor, boasts an impressive accuracy of ±10 seconds per year and a battery life expectancy of three years—a remarkable achievement for Grand Seiko. 

With several upgrades from the original, the 9F85 offers a modernized take on what could easily be considered one of the best quartz movements in the world.

The 9F85 truly embodies Grand Seiko’s innovation and dedication to quartz technology. By incorporating the Twin Pulse Control Motor, Grand Seiko created a quartz movement capable of handling the weight and complexity of the traditional Grand Seiko Style hands without compromising accuracy or battery life. 

This commitment to advancing quartz technology reflects the brand’s dedication to offering timepieces that can stand alongside mechanical watches in terms of both precision and craftsmanship.

The Backlash Auto-Adjust Mechanism might be my favorite feature of this movement. As a neat freak, I’ve always been bothered by seconds hands that miss their markers, even as a child. This feature ensures precision, satisfying my need for perfect alignment. 

The designers at Grand Seiko decided to fix that imperfection; a stuttering second hand that lands off its marker would be no more, thanks to an added hairspring, usually utilized in mechanical components.

The 9F85 movement includes an Instant Date Change mechanism, allowing for a precise date shift right at midnight. For frequent travelers, it also offers a Time Difference Adjustment feature, enabling the hour hand to be adjusted independently without interrupting the seconds hand, maintaining the movement’s accuracy across time zones.

Grand Seiko enhanced durability in the SBGP009 by incorporating a low-power IC that regulates temperature, optimizing battery life. Additionally, an upgraded shield protects the movement’s inner workings, ensuring this watch remains reliable for years while showcasing top-notch quartz technology.

Straps

The bracelet on the SBGP009 beautifully complements the dial’s aesthetic, with Zaratsu polishing extending across its surfaces, including the side bevels and clasp. This attention to detail ensures that the bracelet enhances the watch’s overall elegance and refinement.

The SBGP009 features a classic three-link Oyster-style bracelet with a secure three-fold clasp. While it lacks a micro-adjustment feature, the screwed-in links make it easy to adjust, ensuring a snug and comfortable fit, especially for those with smaller or medium-sized wrists. The bracelet’s design prioritizes both form and function, offering a well-balanced feel that complements the watch’s overall refinement.

With a 20mm lug width and drilled holes in the lugs, finding a replacement strap for the SBGP009 is straightforward and enjoyable. It opens up opportunities to experiment with different straps, allowing you to find one that perfectly complements the vibe of the champagne dial.

On-Wrist Experience

My first experience with the SBGP009 was a pleasant surprise. Unlike other Grand Seikos I’ve tested, it lacked the boldness and pizzazz of their mechanical and Spring Drive models. Handling it felt different—lighter and with fewer moving parts. 

The dial, devoid of extra lettering, a power reserve indicator, or a quartz-powered label at the bottom, seemed stripped of detail. Yet, despite these minimalist choices, it felt pristine and looked just as elegant as its counterparts.

After just a couple of link adjustments, the SBGP009 felt comfortable and light on my wrist. Its case design and curved lugs ensured a perfect fit. 

The minimalistic style truly shines when exposed to light; a well-designed dial interacts beautifully with its surroundings. Some dials perform better under artificial lighting, while others thrive outdoors, but this champagne dial excels in both settings. 

I would wear this beautiful piece everywhere I go when I have it. The SBGP009 can be worn around and handled for everyday activities. No, I wouldn’t go rock climbing or do any sort of physical activity with it on, but for a night out, a day on the boat, or a special occasion, this watch becomes a quartz-powered pièce de résistance. 

I was asked about it several times by those who liked watches casually and those whose eyes popped out when they read Grand Seiko on it. There is something so enticing about the simplicity of the dial and how good it looks on metal bracelets and leather straps. 

Pricing

The elegantly simple SBGP009 is available at a retail price of $2,600, with pre-owned options typically priced around $1,700. It can be purchased today at Exquisite Timepieces.

Conclusion

As a daily watch, the SBGP009 is an excellent choice. It’s an entry-level luxury piece for those curious about handling a Grand Seiko. While it doesn’t feature a Spring Drive or mechanical movement, it represents the pinnacle of quartz technology available today. For avid collectors, it adds variety to a predominantly mechanical collection. 

This is a watch that radiates elegance and excellence, with the ease of switching straps and bracelets to suit any occasion. The SBGP009 blends timeless design, Grand Seiko’s dedication to quartz innovation, and unparalleled craftsmanship into an elegant, versatile timepiece—making it an ideal choice for those seeking both luxury and daily practicality.

There’s no doubt that when you hear the name Omega Speedmaster, your first thought might be, “Ah yes, the first watch worn on the moon.” While the Moonwatch has firmly secured its place in the hearts and wishlists of watch enthusiasts, it’s important not to overlook the Speedmaster’s origins.

The name Speedmaster carries a rich history, whether it’s the version designed to endure high speeds on the track, racing against time, or the one crafted to support space exploration. 

While the journey to the moon undoubtedly elevated Omega’s status, for those who believed man’s true mission was racing on Earth, Omega represented the pinnacle of precision and reliability. Its robust chronograph, paired with the tachymeter scale on the bezel, made it an essential tool for speed enthusiasts.

There’s a reason the Olympics trusts Omega—the world’s biggest sporting event—to guarantee accurate and reliable results when capturing those split-second moments that determine the fastest on Earth. No one measures what the human eye can’t detect quite like Omega. So, buckle up for the origin story of a watch that may not have ventured into space but remains timeless: the Speedmaster Racing Chronograph.

About The Omega Speedmaster Racing

The Omega Speedmaster Racing Chronograph was the go-to timepiece for any motorist wanting to track their speed while looking stylish. If you’re new to chronograph watches, here’s a simple breakdown of how they work.

Like any regular watch, the Speedmaster Racing Chronograph keeps the time. However, it also features a chronograph—a specialized complication that acts as a stopwatch, essential for anyone looking to measure time intervals. 

Pressing the button at 2 o’clock starts and stops the chronograph hand, while the button at 4 o’clock resets the stopwatch, making it a versatile tool for timing events.

The original models of the Speedmaster Racing featured three sub-dials, a standard design in most chronographs. The sub-dial at 9 o’clock measures the seconds for the stopwatch, the one at 6 o’clock tracks the hours, and the sub-dial at 3 o’clock records the minutes that have elapsed. This setup allows for precise timing and makes the Speedmaster Racing an invaluable tool for drivers and timekeepers alike.

The Speedmaster Racing Chronograph also features a tachymeter, a scale on the bezel that measures speed based on time and distance. This tool is ideal for calculating speed over a fixed distance. 

To use it, simply start the chronograph at the beginning of the distance and stop it at the end. The central chronograph hand will point to a number on the tachymeter, indicating the speed. For example, if a vehicle takes 40 seconds to cover a mile, the hand will point to 100 on the tachymeter, indicating the vehicle was traveling at 100 mph.

According to some Omega lore, the first Speedmaster Racing didn’t feature the now-iconic black-and-white dial. While accounts differ depending on the storyteller, we can trace the origins of this legendary watch back to its initial release in 1957.

History of Omega Speedmaster Racing Watches

When the Omega Speedmaster Racing Chronograph was released, it was the first of its kind to feature a tachymeter scale on the bezel rather than on the dial, enhancing both functionality and legibility. 

While some recall seeing a racer wearing a black-and-white Speedmaster Racing in 1962 at Le Mans, others suggest that the original version featured a “racing” dial. 

This variation stood out with a prominent orange chronograph hand, along with matching orange sub-dials and hour indices. These vibrant colors improved legibility, making it easier for racers to track their stats on the go.

But as history would have it, the Speedmaster became synonymous with space exploration, and the production of the Racing variant was halted, overshadowed by the legendary “Moonwatch.” 

Records indicate that Omega produced a Speedmaster with a racing dial from 1968 to 1970, but these models were not mass-produced. 

Some notable releases were the Orange Racing ref. 145.022 that came with a sleek grey dial instead of the jet black we’ve come to know and the Speedmaster MKII ref. 145.014. With only a few hundred units believed to have been made, these watches are now considered rare and highly sought after by collectors.

In the 1990s, Omega revived their line of Speedmaster Racing watches, this time to honor legendary racers like Michael Schumacher and Michael Andretti. Omega created exclusive timepieces in their names, featuring bold designs and exciting color combinations that captured the spirit of motorsport.

Andretti’s Speedmaster Racing came with a striking blue dial, complete with the “CART” logo displayed in the 6 o’clock subdial. Both Michael and Ralf Schumacher joined Omega as ambassadors and received models within the Speedmaster Reduced family, available in vibrant yellow and red. 

Omega continued to honor Michael Schumacher over the years with several limited-edition Speedmasters, which helped shape the creative direction of the Racing line moving forward.

In 2004, Omega released a limited edition Speedmaster exclusively in Japan, with just 2,004 pieces produced. This “Japan Racing” model drew heavy inspiration from the 1970 MKII, showcasing the same gray dial with red and orange accents on the outer track. 

Alongside it was the now-famous Speedmaster “Tintin,” released in 2013, which, though initially a commercial failure, later gained a dedicated following. These releases sparked renewed enthusiasm among Speedmaster Racing fans, fueling demand for even more Racing editions.

Omega Speedmaster Racing: In-Depth Review

The Speedmaster Racing family now boasts several models, each with updated dials and enhanced movements. While many models share similar stats and features, some are designed to be even more functional for those eager to push the Speedmaster Racing to its full potential.

Case

The Omega Speedmaster Racing showcases a stainless steel case with a 44.25 mm diameter, a lug-to-lug width of 50 mm, and a thickness of 14.9 mm. Its domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects both the dial and the transparent caseback, offering a glimpse into Omega’s horological mastery. 

The chronograph buttons and crown provide a smooth, responsive action that enhances the user experience. With its mirror-like polished finish and 50 meters of water resistance, this striking case perfectly balances elegance and durability.

Bezel

A standout feature of the Speedmaster Racing, and the Speedmaster line as a whole, is the tachymeter scale’s placement on the bezel. This innovation marked a first in watchmaking, moving the tachymeter from the dial to the ceramic bezel. 

This not only enhanced the watch’s functionality but also contributed to the iconic look that has become synonymous with the Speedmaster name. Depending on the dial’s colorway, the markings on the tachymeter scale will vary in color. 

Dials

At first glance, you might think the Speedmaster Moonwatch and the Racing share a similar dial layout, but that’s not the case. The Omega Speedmaster Racing opts for two subdials positioned at the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock markers, unlike the three subdials commonly seen on chronographs. 

Notably, the 3 o’clock subdial merges the 60-minute and 12-hour counters, enhancing readability when precision timing is crucial, such as during high-speed activities. 

The Speedmaster Racing embraces a vibrant and sporty aesthetic, featuring hands and sub-dials in colors like red, yellow, and orange, which enhance visibility and evoke a sense of excitement. This colorful approach sets it apart from the traditional black-and-white designs often found in the Speedmaster lineup. 

Additionally, the markers around the dial draw inspiration from the checkered flag, further reinforcing the racing theme. These elements combine to create a dynamic look that reflects the spirit of motorsport while maintaining Omega’s signature craftsmanship and precision.

Movements

The Omega Speedmaster Racing is predominantly driven by the in-house Caliber 9900, with a few models as exceptions. Omega designed this movement to power a tool watch with utmost durability, precision, and reliability. Introduced in 2015, the Caliber 9900 is an automatic movement that features a chronograph complication and date display.

It boasts a 60-hour power reserve and an impressive accuracy of 0 to +5 seconds per day. The movement incorporates a Co-Axial Escapement for enhanced precision and stability, as well as a Column-Wheel Chronograph Mechanism for smoother chronograph functionality. Tested by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), the chronograph is a certified Master Chronometer, underscoring Omega’s commitment to excellence.

Straps

The 21 mm lug width of the Speedmaster Racing offers a versatile range of options for swapping out the stainless steel bracelet. This size accommodates Omega’s beautifully crafted leather straps, which offer a refined look or a NATO strap for a more Bond-inspired feel. 

The stainless steel bracelet features a precisely engineered clasp with a comfort setting, allowing for easy adjustments to ensure a perfect fit. On the other hand, the leather strap, with its alligator leather front and calfskin underside, provides both elegance and comfort. It is secured with a sophisticated folding clasp, completing the watch’s versatile and luxurious appeal.

Most Popular Omega Speedmaster Racing Models

From once being overshadowed within the Speedmaster family to now standing as a prized timepiece, the Omega Speedmaster Racing catalog has come full circle and now flourishes with variety. 

Offering a wide array of models and color combinations, this collection presents something for every watch enthusiast. Here are five of the most popular Omega Speedmaster Racing models to explore.

Omega Speedmaster Racing Chronograph 44.25mm (ref. 329.30.44.51.01.001)

For those just entering the world of the Speedmaster or looking to expand their Omega collection, the iconic 2017 black-and-white dial Speedmaster Racing is a top choice. With an uncluttered design, this model offers excellent legibility. 

The 3 o’clock subdial handles both minute and hour tracking, leaving ample room for the date window and clear reminders of the Co-Axial escapement and Master Chronometer certification. This watch embodies a cool, classic style and serves as an ideal entry point into the Racing family.

Omega Speedmaster Racing Co-Axial Chronometer Chronograph White Dial 44.25mm (ref. 329.33.44.51.04.001)

If you’re looking to stand out from the crowd and already own plenty of black dials, the 2017 white dial Speedmaster Racing might be the one for you. With a stunning white matte finish, bright orange accents on the Speedmaster logo and the chronograph hand’s tip, and a refined leather strap, this watch is a unique twist on the classic. 

While the Moonwatch only introduced a white dial recently, the Racing variant has been confidently showcasing its crisp, distinctive look for years—just waiting to make its way to your wrist.

Omega Speedmaster Super Racing (ref. 329.30.44.51.01.003)

For the seasoned collector seeking a piece of Omega history, the 2023 Omega Speedmaster Super Racing is a true gem. Paying homage to the 2013 Seamaster Aqua Terra >15’000 GAUSS, this model boasts a striking black honeycomb-textured dial with bold yellow accents on both the dial and bezel, giving it a distinct and dynamic presence. 

The yellow lume and the black-and-yellow hand on the 9 o’clock subdial add extra flair, while the watch comes with a versatile stainless steel bracelet and a NATO strap for a sportier look. Powered by the Caliber 9920, it features Omega’s innovative Spirate System, delivering remarkable precision with an accuracy of 0 to +2 seconds per day. With intricate details and an impeccable build, this timepiece is as much a joy to behold as it is to own.

Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer (ref. 329.32.44.51.01.001)

In 2017, Omega introduced a Speedmaster Racing model that embraces its racing heritage with an invigorating update. This black dial variant steps away from the traditional black-and-white Speedmaster look, adding vibrant orange accents to the hands, hour markers, and chronograph tip. 

These bold pops of color bring the racing spirit to the forefront, making it a fitting tribute to Omega’s motorsport roots. Complementing the dial, a matching black-and-orange racing strap ties the design together, capturing the essence of speed and precision in a fresh, visually compelling package. This model stands as a dynamic and engaging addition to the Speedmaster Racing Chronograph lineup.

Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer Sedna Gold (ref. 329.53.44.51.03.001)

No list of standout Speedmaster Racing models would be complete without highlighting the extravagant Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronograph in Sedna Gold. This luxurious offering from the 2017 collection is truly a stunning timepiece. 

The 18k Sedna Gold case pairs beautifully with the ceramic blue tachymeter bezel, creating a striking contrast. The sun-brushed blue dial, adorned with gold accents, further enhances its elegance, while the blue alligator leather strap adds a touch of sophistication. This watch represents the pinnacle of racing luxury and is an impressive addition to any collection, combining refined craftsmanship with a bold racing spirit.

Should You Buy An Omega Speedmaster Racing?

I firmly believe there are no rules in watch collecting. The Omega Speedmaster Racing is crafted for those eager to push the limits of velocity—a perfect tool for measuring what can’t be calculated without the right equipment. But what if you’re not into racing? Does that exclude you from enjoying this watch’s purpose? Absolutely not. 

Owning a Speedmaster Racing means possessing a piece of history. By choosing this watch, you breathe new life into a model that was once overlooked due to the moonshot of fate—quite literally. With various options to choose from, there’s no reason not to step away from the classic and acquire one of the most beautiful toolwatches in history.

Omega Speedmaster Racing Pricing & Availability

The Omega Speedmaster Racing Chronograph retails for $9,200 for the leather strap variant and $9,600 for the model with the steel bracelet. In the pre-owned market, these watches typically sell for between $5,500 and $6,500.

The Omega Speedmaster Super Racing is priced at $11,600, but finding this model in the pre-owned market can be quite challenging. The Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer in Sedna Gold retails for $31,700 and is available in the pre-owned market for around $19,000.

All of these watches can be purchased at Exquisite Timepieces today.

Conclusion

Omega has revived this original brainchild, lifting it from obscurity and restoring it to a prominence that rivals the models that once overshadowed it. The Speedmaster Racing is now celebrated alongside its iconic sibling, proving that it’s every bit as relevant in the watch world as the Moonwatch.

Everyone’s eye is drawn to different details—whether it’s color, size, or style. We each have our own idea of perfection, shaped by personal preferences and standards. The same applies to the watches we wear on our wrists.

As an avid movie fan and lover of anything red, when I read about the Grand Seiko limited-edition SBGA405 “Godzilla,” I was elated. But my joy quickly sank as I continued to read that this was indeed very limited. Only 650 pieces were released, making it nearly impossible to find.

After years of convincing myself that the SBGA405 was “just a novelty watch,” I started searching for something more suited to me—something smaller for my wrist, perfect for special occasions, and, of course, something red.

Lo and behold, Grand Seiko unveiled the stunning SBGJ273. In a market where high-end red dial watches are rare, the master craftsmen and women at GS created something so beautiful and exquisite they couldn’t bring themselves to make it a limited edition.

Rejoice, lovers of crimson, and bask in this gem of a timepiece crafted by one of the world’s finest watchmakers; this is the Grand Seiko SBGJ273 “Yuka-Momiji” Hi-Beat GMT.

History

As part of the Elegance Collection, the SBGJ273 joins some of Grand Seiko’s most distinguished pieces. From tributes to the original 62GS case with modern updates to designs inspired by Japan’s changing seasons, this collection adds a touch of refinement and grace to every watch. 

In 2021, Grand Seiko continued drawing inspiration from the nature surrounding their studios, creating timepieces embodying the brand’s essence—elegance, innovation, and a celebration of Japanese heritage.

Their Seasons Collection introduced four new GMT pieces, each with unique dials representing a different phase of the seasons in Japan. These phases, or sekki, are subtle but remarkable, just as the watches that pay homage to them. 

Spring, summer, fall, and winter each had their own watch, with distinct designs representing specific sekki. The SBGJ251 “Shunbun” had a green dial with rose gold accents to capture the essence of the Spring equinox, while the SBGJ249 “Shōsho” featured a light blue wave-textured dial symbolizing early summer. 

Both models were powered by the Hi-Beat 36000 movement. In contrast, the SBGE271 “Kanro” with its black dial embodied the autumn night, and the SBGE269 “Tōji” displayed a beautifully textured white dial representing the Winter solstice—both driven by the Spring Drive movement.

These were wonderful releases with little to critique, but the GMT market already had plenty of watches with white, black, and green dials. 

Then, in April 2023, Grand Seiko revealed the SBGJ273, and the world stopped to marvel at the images. Could it be? A red dial GMT, not loud or flashy, but elegantly poised in its design. Indeed it was. By September 2023, the SBGJ273 was released to the public, receiving widespread acclaim.

Case

As noted, the case design of Grand Seiko watches in the Elegance Collection pays clear homage to the original GS case from the 1960s. With modern updates and the addition of Zaratsu polishing, these cases are as pristine as the dials they encase.

The SBGJ273’s stainless steel case measures a refined 39.5 mm in diameter, ideal for a standout dress watch. It has a 46 mm lug-to-lug width. The band is 19 mm wide and features drilled lugs—a convenient touch for those who like to switch out the bracelet.

The thickness, on the other hand, makes this watch taller than the average dress watch. At 14.1 mm thick, the “Yuka-Momiji” sits on the wrist with its noticeable thickness. However, the case is designed with angled slopes and curved lugs that’ll make the watch sit comfortably on any wrist. 

The thickness is primarily due to the boxed double-domed crystal sitting on top of the dial. The glass looks raised, which is most likely to protect the bezel from getting scratched; this just adds to its vintage dressy look.

The appearance of the SBGJ273 is truly captivating, largely due to its complete Zaratsu polishing. While many models combine Zaratsu with brushed finishing, this watch features an entirely Zaratsu-polished bezel, lugs, and case sides. This meticulous finishing gives the case a mirror-like quality, reflecting light beautifully from every angle.

The see-through caseback lets you see the Hi-Beat 9S86 at work, which is always my preference. The vintage screwed-down crown with the engraved GS logo sits at the 3 o’clock marker. Considering that this is a dress watch, the SBGJ273 only offers 30 meters of water resistance. 

Dial

Of course, the star of the show is the “Yuka-Momiji” dial—an astonishing autumn red with a beautifully lacquered design. Understanding the inspiration behind the dial is as simple as knowing the meaning of “Yuka-Momiji.”

“Yuka” means floor, and “Momiji” refers to the red maple leaves during autumn. The dial’s inspiration comes from the reflection of these vibrant leaves on the wooden floorboards of a Buddhist temple in Japan.

The dial features vertical lines and subtle grooves, capturing the essence of a wooden floorboard. If I’ve ever remarked on a Grand Seiko dial playing with light (which I often have), forget that. The SBGJ273’s dial truly comes alive in any lighting, thriving under every shade.

Typically, the dial presents a darker, burgundy shade with hints of orange that subtly masks its intricate lines, giving it an almost seductive allure. Red, the color of passion, draws the wearer in, urging them to bring the watch into the light to unveil its true brilliance. Once illuminated, the SBGJ273 transforms into a striking crimson masterpiece, gleaming and revealing its captivating design from every angle.

The hour indices are Zaratsu-polished, with the 6, 9, and 12 markers featuring double indices for added emphasis, while a silver-plated date window sits neatly at the 3 o’clock position. The hour and minute dauphine hands are also meticulously crafted, showcasing the same masterful Zaratsu finishing.

Unlike other GMT watches I’ve reviewed, the SBGJ273 places its GMT markers directly on the dial. The silver even-numbered markers are positioned just below the hour indices, adding a subtle contrast without making the dial feel overcrowded. Instead, it enhances the overall design with an extra layer of depth and balance.

Speaking of contrast, the gold accents on the GMT hand and lettering introduce a striking splash of color. This gold hue is yet another homage to the warm tones of autumn leaves, perfectly complementing the rich red of the dial. Since the GMT markers are on the dial, the GMT hand is slightly shorter, ensuring easier readability without overwhelming the design.

As usual, the shining silver Grand Seiko logo sits proudly below the 12 o’clock position. At first glance, all these elements may sound like they could overwhelm the dial, and that’s a fair concern. 

The “Yuka-Momiji” dial certainly has its share of intricate details, but seeing them in person reveals just how masterfully they’re executed—precise, perfectly spaced, and undeniably stunning.

Movement

It’s no surprise that a Grand Seiko movement commands as much admiration as the dial it powers. Grand Seiko dials are undeniably stunning, and the SBGJ273 exemplifies this. 

Yet, what truly sets Grand Seiko apart is their relentless pursuit of crafting the most precise horological masterpieces in the world. Without this dedication to precision, they’d simply be another watch brand.

The advancements made to their original quartz and mechanical watches earned Grand Seiko a reputation for exceptional accuracy and precision. Far ahead of their competition, Grand Seiko understood that to continue improving, they had to push the boundaries of what a traditional watch could achieve.

The result: a Spring Drive movement that merges quartz-powered accuracy with the torque of a mechanical watch, producing a smoothly gliding second hand, and the Hi-Beat 36000. 

Considered the pinnacle of mechanical movements, the Hi-Beat boasts 36,000 oscillations per hour—equivalent to 10 beats per second—delivering exceptional accuracy and precision.

The SBGJ273 is powered by the Caliber 9S86. With automatic movement and manual winding, the Caliber 9S86 offers an impressive accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds a day with a 55-hour power reserve. What separates this movement from its predecessor, the 9S85, is the addition of a GMT complication. 

Although it’s not a Spring Drive, the Hi-Beat movement remains impressively smooth. Watching the second hand sweep, it’s hard to believe it’s actually starting and stopping ten times per second. 

While most watches operate at an average of 22,000 to 28,000 vibrations per hour, the 36,000 oscillations per hour of the Hi-Beat is truly something to marvel at.

This GMT feature is a sleek and innovative upgrade to traditional GMT watches. Powered by the Caliber 9S86, adjusting the local hour while traveling is effortless—just pull the crown to the first position and move the hour hand. 

You can adjust it in either direction to match the time zone without interrupting the Hi-Beat second hand, making the process smooth and seamless. Overall, the “Yuka-Momiji” stands as a true GMT in every sense.

Bracelet

The bracelet that comes with the SBGJ273 is a wonderful complement to an already sensational watch. It has the classic Grand Seiko three-link design with a brushed matte-like finish on the outside parts on the links and Zaratsu finishing on the inner parts.

The links are secured with screws, and half links are included for finer adjustments. I bring this up because the bracelet lacks a micro-adjustment feature. Personally, I didn’t find it to be an issue. 

Despite having a smaller wrist, sizing the bracelet wasn’t a problem. I don’t think Grand Seiko overlooked the micro-adjustment; rather, it seems they crafted the bracelet so well that it simply doesn’t need one.

The 19mm lug width means that finding straps to replace the bracelet is a tedious mission but not impossible. In the next section, I’ll talk more about switching straps, but know that the drilled holes in the lugs are basically a subtle invitation to switch as you please. 

To me, the clasp of a Grand Seiko is a work of art. There is something magical about seeing the engraved GS logo just before strapping on your watch to start the day. The SBGJ273 comes in a single-fold twin-trigger release clasp with no micro-adjustments, as previously mentioned, giving it more of a sleek, vintage look. 

On The Wrist

Before I start praising the SBGJ273, I must point out that its thickness is quite noticeable. It sits on the wrist with a commanding presence—tall and slightly heavy. The “Yuka-Momiji” is far from being a delicate dress watch.

Although it belongs to the Elegance Collection, I don’t consider this a dress watch at all. It is undeniably elegant, with its beautifully designed case, mirror-like finish, and curved lugs that fit seamlessly on any wrist. Despite the bold red dial, it pairs effortlessly with any formal attire and carries an overall vintage appeal.

Despite that, the “Yuka-Momiji” is an absolute show-stopper of a watch. It is the perfect watch for the fall season, and as someone who doesn’t live in a city where the seasons can be fully appreciated, this is as close as I can get to the authentic fall feel. 

This watch is a breath of fresh air, especially given the scarcity of GMTs with red dials. But it’s not just any red—it transitions from a deep burgundy to autumn orange and then to a vibrant, fiery red. The lacquered floorboard design is like a work of art on the dial, far more impressive in person than I initially expected.

Since having the chance to test the “Yuka-Momiji,” it quickly became my daily wear. I used the GMT feature on a short trip abroad, and it made me eager to travel more. Surprisingly, the 24-hour markers on the dial didn’t make it feel cluttered at all.

The combination of gold and silver accents brings even more vibrancy to the red dial. The Zaratsu finishing on the indices and the shifting hues depending on the light make the dial come alive. It’s these subtle, intricate design details that define Grand Seiko and its exceptional craftsmanship.

I found myself in awe every day when I got the chance to analyze the dial and decided to experiment with several leather straps; most were darker shades of brown, and one was dark red that paired with the dial perfectly. In fact, I got stopped more often when I had a leather strap on than the original strap.

The SBGJ273 is a comfortable fit for small to mid-sized wrists and feels more like a sportier watch, considering that this is a GMT, after all. Though it won’t slide under tight cuffs, this is a watch fit for any occasion to wear as you please. 

Price and Availability

The SBGJ273 is an excellent timepiece to add to any collection, big or small. It sells for a retail price of $7,100 and could be sold for anywhere between $4,000 and $4,500 in the pre-owned market. The “Yuka-Momiji” is available for purchase at the Exquisite Timepieces website today. 

Closing Thoughts

“Yuka-Momiji” is now etched into my little book of favorites. Compact in size, packed with innovative technology, and graced with a stunning red dial. Is it thicker than most dress watches? Sure. Only 30 meters of water resistance? Fair enough. 

But beyond those minor points, this is the perfect GMT watch for any collector seeking a pièce de résistance—or for anyone who loves red and wants a piece of horological heritage on their wrist.

After testing and reviewing several Grand Seiko watches, I’ve grown accustomed to a particular style—sleek, compact, and elegant. The pieces I’ve worn are mostly ones you’d expect to see on formal occasions. I wouldn’t call them dainty, but there’s definitely a refined, dressier feel to many watches in the Grand Seiko catalog. 

If there’s one thing Grand Seiko excels at, it’s evolving while maintaining its signature quality. To reach a wider audience, the brand expanded its collection to include sports watches that match the elegance of its dress pieces. At the same time, it continues to innovate, improving its in-house movements with precise complications like chronographs and GMTs. 

Since 2010, GS has gained worldwide popularity for its variety of sports watches. These watches have shed the delicacy of dress watches and adopted a more robust and rugged look, all while maintaining the elegance that made Grand Seiko the household name it is today. 

While browsing through a variety of sports watch options, one model stood out as a true champion among heavyweights—the SBGE277. I often associate Grand Seiko pieces with art, but I can’t overstate the brilliance that radiates from this exquisite watch. Much like a masterpiece in the Louvre, the SBGE277 can only be fully appreciated in person.

History

As touched upon earlier, the developers at Grand Seiko believed that to become a legitimate contender in the watchmaking world dominated by Swiss manufacturers, they needed to expand their collection. In 2002, GS produced an instant classic with the SBGM001. 

The SBGM001 was the first Grand Seiko model to feature the 9S56 movement, marking the brand’s introduction of a GMT complication. With its black dial and striking red GMT hand, this watch made waves upon release for its design, functionality, and precision.

The 2010s marked a new chapter for Grand Seiko with the launch of the Sports Collection. The brand expanded beyond dress watches, introducing chronograph and GMT models, including some limited editions. This shift into tool watches helped Grand Seiko break the mold and gain recognition in international markets.

After an impressive showcase at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, Grand Seiko kept the momentum going by announcing another wave of releases. Among them was the SBGE277, launched in May 2022. This timepiece boasts a commanding wrist presence, featuring a striking black dial and housing the remarkable in-house Caliber 9R65 movement.

Case

Every rugged dive watch requires a solid and durable case, and the SBGE277 delivers precisely that. As one of the larger GMT models in Grand Seiko’s lineup, it measures 44mm in diameter, 14.77mm thick, and has a lug-to-lug width of 50.8mm.

The watch’s double-domed sapphire crystal fits nicely into the case and doesn’t stick out as much, giving it a shallow, snug look. The screw-down crown is placed conveniently at the 4 o’clock marker.

Perhaps my favorite feature of this Grand Seiko GMT is the bezel. The last time I reviewed a GS GMT, it lacked a rotating bezel. It almost sounds childish, but as soon as I got my hands on the SBGE277, my fingers wrapped around the bezel and began rotating away.

The SBGE277 features a beautifully designed half-black, half-white bidirectional sapphire bezel. The action of the rotating bezel is smooth, and the satisfying click as it turns makes up for the silence of the Spring Drive movement. (Not to knock Grand Seiko’s innovative Caliber 9R66, but I have a soft spot for the ticking sound of traditional watches.)

As someone with a smaller wrist, the idea of wearing a GMT can be daunting. When I read the specs of the SBGE277, especially its 44mm diameter, I was already bracing myself for disappointment, expecting yet another oversized horological beauty that just wouldn’t fit.

But once again, I was proven wrong by the master craftsmen and women at the Grand Seiko Studios. The stainless steel case tapers inward, making the watch feel more like a 40mm than a 44mm. The curved lugs also hug the wrist, making the SBGE277 surprisingly comfortable to wear.

With a blend of Zaratsu polishing and brushed finishing, the SBGE277 offers the ability to track three different time zones and boasts 200 meters of water resistance. It’s the ideal combination of sporty and elegant—exactly what you’d expect from Grand Seiko.

Dial

Grand Seiko is renowned for creating dials that are nothing short of remarkable. Whether it’s the color, intricate details, or textured finishes, it’s no surprise that GS consistently delivers some of the finest dials in the industry.

Seeing a picture of the SBGE277 online doesn’t do it justice. I may be exaggerating slightly, but to truly appreciate the beauty and craftsmanship of this dial, you need to see it in person.

At the foot of the Hotaka Mountains lies the Shinshu Watch Studio, where Grand Seiko designs, produces, and adjusts all Spring Drive-powered watches. The SBGE277’s black textured dial is a tribute to this volcanic mountain range, inspired by the rugged beauty of the Hotaka peaks.

A bit reminiscent of the SBGE201 and its jet-black dial, the SBGE277 has a black dial filled with intricate details, staying true to Grand Seiko’s nature-inspired theme. Like the volcanic rock of Mt. Hotaka, the dial resembles obsidian, playing with light as it reflects off its surface.

The inner rehaut mirrors the outer bezel, featuring black and white odd-numbered markers. As expected, the silver Grand Seiko logo sits below the 12 o’clock marker, while the red GMT lettering and Spring Drive reminder in white are positioned just above the 6 o’clock marker.

The red GMT hand is a bold and striking feature, standing out beautifully against the black dial and adding an extra layer of visual appeal to the already stunning design. The hour and minute hands are exquisitely polished, while the seconds hand glides smoothly around the dial, thanks to the Caliber 9R66.

A power reserve indicator is neatly positioned between the 8 and 9 markers, providing a valuable reminder for when to manually wind the watch. Additionally, there’s a slim date window at the 4 o’clock position.

I saved my favorite detail for last. While a watch under light is beautiful, a watch you can rely on in the dark is even better. At its core, the SBGE277 is a tool watch, and its incredible lume ensures you can quickly tell the time, whether you’re diving or simply in a dark room.

The dauphine hands, indices at 3, 6, 9, and 12, and the outer bezel all feature LumiBrite for enhanced visibility. Thanks to the sapphire crystal covering the bezel, the luminescence extends around the edge, illuminating the watch’s notable and functional details.

Movement

With the high torque of a mechanical watch and the high precision of a quartz watch, Grand Seiko developed an in-house movement that combined the two mechanisms. Their creation would stun the world and solidify the brand as one of the world’s elite watchmakers. 

The Spring Drive movement was the result of a 20-year journey to create a watch that could be considered a representation of time itself. Silent and continuous, this revolutionary movement debuted in 1999 and set forth a groundbreaking new era for Grand Seiko. 

Round and round it goes, never stopping in a continuous flow—what am I? The answer to this little riddle could be time itself, but it could just as easily be the seconds hand on a Spring Drive Caliber 9R65 Grand Seiko, first introduced in 2004.

The SBGE277 is powered by the Caliber 9R66. The successor of the 9R65, the Caliber 9R66 is the first Spring Drive with a GMT compilation. 

Precision has always been a core goal for Grand Seiko, and the SBGE277 delivers with remarkable accuracy, offering a deviation of ±1 seconds per day and ±15 seconds per month. 

The crown plays a crucial role in the functionality of the 9R66 movement, allowing for manual winding to power the watch. As you wind it, the power reserve indicator on the dial moves accordingly, letting you know how much energy is stored. With a 72-hour power reserve, the watch can run for several days before needing to be wound again.

Pulling the crown to its second position allows you to adjust the hour hand independently, making it easy for travelers to set the local time without disrupting the sweeping hand.

With its unparalleled accuracy, time-hacking capabilities, and mesmerizing sweeping seconds hand, the Caliber 9S66 that powers the SBGE277 elevates this already impressive entry in the Grand Seiko lineup. The elegant yet bold design of the case, the layered, textured dial, and the seamless flow of the second hand all come together to create a cohesive and striking timepiece.

Bracelet

The SBGE277 features a beautifully crafted stainless steel bracelet, showcasing the classic Grand Seiko three-link design. The polished inner links contrast elegantly with the brushed outer links, creating a striking balance. From the side, the links appear rounded and polished to perfection, producing a stunning shine that adds to the watch’s overall appeal.

The bracelet is equipped with screwed-in links, making it easy to remove and adjust for a thinner wrist. And if the lack of links feels uncomfortable or looks unbalanced, don’t worry! The clasp offers four micro-adjustment settings, giving you extra flexibility to achieve the perfect fit.

The term “strap monster” refers to a watch’s versatility when it comes to pairing with different straps and bracelets, and the SBGE277 fits this description perfectly. Its design allows it to shine no matter the strap choice.

With the SBGE277’s 21mm band width, strap options may be somewhat limited, but the drilled holes in the lugs make swapping straps a breeze—and, if you’re anything like me, it can become addictive!

On The Wrist

The SBGE277 was one of the larger watches I’ve tested, and that’s exactly what drew me to it. Could I make this horological titan fit comfortably on my smaller wrist?

For anyone with small wrist syndrome, the answer is yes. Thanks to the engineering brilliance of the Shinshu Watch Studio, Grand Seiko has mastered the art of creating timepieces that are “more than meets the eye.”

Despite its 44mm size, this watch feels more like a 40mm on the wrist. I was genuinely dumbfounded by how comfortable it was once I got it strapped on, though it did take me a while to adjust it properly—something I’ll explain shortly.

The angles of the case allow it to sit snugly on any wrist. Thanks to the micro-adjustments, the watch stayed perfectly in place without sliding or shifting around. It felt nothing like I expected, which makes me wonder if the craftsmen and women at Grand Seiko specifically designed this case to accommodate smaller wrists.

The obsidian dial is truly a marvel, and at the moment, it’s my favorite. While I haven’t had the chance to test many watches, the SBGE277 carries a distinct attitude. It’s rugged, bold, and hefty. The more I wore it, the more I felt like this was the least “Grand Seiko” Grand Seiko I’ve worn.

The sporty nature of the SBGE277 allowed me to do something I thought I’d never do with a Grand Seiko—out of pure respect for their artistry and craftsmanship. I changed the strap not once, not twice, but five times, switching between NATO straps, leather, and back to the original bracelet.

I felt like I was committing a sin, but the truth is, the SBGE277 was a fun watch to experiment with (of course, with caution since this was a test run). It’s a stylish brute of elegance, and even when it felt less formal, the intricacies and details always reminded me that this was still a Grand Seiko.

Price

The Grand Seiko SBGE277 is being sold at a retail price of $6,200, with pre-owned models typically ranging from $3,800 to $4,000. This remarkable watch is currently available at Exquisite Timepieces.

Closing Thoughts

Shed any preconceived notion of the Grand Seiko dress watch standard. The SBGE277 is a Grand Seiko masterclass in pushing boundaries. It consistently offers something new to admire every time you wear it. If you plan to get your first GMT or plan to add another one to your collection, stop searching and consider this: the likelihood of wearing a GMT that is as technologically advanced and tough as the SGBE277 is very, very slim. If the black volcanic dial doesn’t pique your interest, the lume doesn’t spark something in you, or the Spring Drive fails to move you, then stick to your run-of-the-mill GMTs. The SBGE277 is a watch for those who know, and if you know, you know. 

Have you ever looked at something—a painting, a scene in a movie, a moment in nature during a walk, or even just a fleeting glimpse amidst the hustle and bustle of daily life—and felt completely inspired?

The master craftsmen and women at Grand Seiko have made a lasting impression on the watchmaking world with their nature-inspired dials, a hallmark of the brand for over two decades.

Since the release of the iconic “Snowflake” SBGA211 in 2005, Grand Seiko has consistently crafted beautifully colored and textured dials, each one as impressive—if not more so—than the last. As the dials have evolved in detail, the movements within have become increasingly intricate as well.

Grand Seiko’s mastery lies in its ability to blend aesthetic beauty with technical excellence, creating watches that evoke emotion and leave enthusiasts in awe. 

Its dedication to craftsmanship is evident in every timepiece it produces, from the intricate movements to the stunning, nature-inspired designs. A perfect example of this is the beautifully crafted, bamboo-inspired “Urban Bamboo” SBGJ259.

History

In September 2022, Grand Seiko introduced two more nature-inspired watches to its Heritage collection. Both watches are stunning in beauty and showcase remarkable micro-technological craftsmanship. They were released exclusively in the US.

One of these was the SBGJ261, featuring an eccentric blue peacock-inspired dial. The other is a more subdued, tranquil piece inspired by the bamboo gardens of Japan—the SBGJ259, the subject of this article.

Before discussing its beauty in detail, it’s essential to discuss the historical significance behind the SBGJ259’s case design, the “Grand Seiko Style” 44GS.

Seven years after the first Grand Seiko was released, Chief Designer Taro Tanaka realized that perfecting a watch meant not only focusing on precision but also making it aesthetically striking. This led to the creation of the 44GS design, embodying the philosophy that a timepiece should “sparkle with quality.”

The skilled artisans of Grand Seiko then began working on watches that featured flat surfaces and two-dimensional curves. The cases, dials, and hands were designed to be wide, distortion-free, and mirror-polished, resulting in the iconic look of the 44GS style.

In 1967, Grand Seiko released its 44GS with its “Grand Seiko style” case and established the design that would be the staple of their case production. In 2014, GS released the SBGJ005, a nearly identical remake of the 44GS model with a modern touch and the high-beat GMT Caliber 9S86. 

2022 marked the 55th anniversary of the 44GS, and Grand Seiko released several models, including the SBGJ259, in homage to the design that set the new standard.

Case

Now that we’ve covered the history let’s dive into what makes this legendary case design both mesmerizing and comfortable.

The “Urban Bamboo” SBGJ259 features a 40mm stainless steel case with a 46.2mm lug-to-lug span and a lug width of about 19mm. At 14mm thick, it may seem substantial, but this is due primarily to the domed sapphire crystal and the automatic movement housed inside. Still, it slides easily under a sleeve, making it suitable for dressier occasions.

It features an open case back that allows you to see the Caliber 9S86 at work. The screwed-down crown is at the 3 o’clock position with the famed GS logo engraved at the tip and is 100 meters water resistant. 

The true mark of quality is in the finishing and polishing of the case, beginning with the bezel, which gleams with the signature Zaratsu polishing that Grand Seiko is renowned for. The sapphire crystal that protrudes slightly over the mirror-finished bezel to protect it from any potential scratches. 

The case has multiple faceted surfaces and angles, all polished using the Zaratsu method, ensuring a clear, distortion-free finish that you can admire from any angle. The sloped sides of the case and bezel not only make the watch appear slimmer but also allow it to sit comfortably on the wrist.

Honestly speaking, this case needs to be seen in person to understand how incredibly detailed it is genuinely. Grand Seiko is known for its Zaratsu polishing, but on the SBGJ259, it feels like something brand new. The way light reflects off every angle and Zaratsu-finished surface is astounding. It is a light, compact case that emphasizes masterful quality and attention to detail. 

Dial

When I first laid eyes on the SBGJ259, I was immediately reminded of Grand Seiko’s deep connection to Japanese nature and culture. What I’ve come to understand about GS and the philosophy that drives their craftsmanship is perfectly reflected in this dial: meticulous and serene.

I also noticed similarities in texture and design between the SBGJ259 and other models like the SBGJ273 “Yuka Momiji” and the SBGH269 “Autumn”. While captivating in their own way, their red dials don’t convey the same sense of tranquility as the SBGJ259’s green dial. 

The “Urban Bamboo” dial was inspired by the Nezu Museum and Garden, more specifically, the bamboo garden path. The piece was made to pay tribute to the museum’s designer, Kengo Kuma. The vertical lines are meant to resemble the bamboo trees that grow around the museum. 

Under different lighting, especially sunlight, the dial reveals various shades of green and the intricate details within each “stem” of the bamboo design, enhancing its organic and natural feel. 

The silver Dauphine hands are Zaratsu-polished, multi-faceted, and complement the dial beautifully. The rectangular hour markers, including the dual marker at 12 o’clock, are also multi-faceted. This precision is achieved by artisans using diamond-tipped milling tools, allowing them to craft the finest details with incredible accuracy.

As a GMT watch, the inner chapter ring serves as a 24-hour scale, making it easier to track timezones. The even numbers are displayed in silver, while the odd numbers are marked with silver triangles. Beneath this, the minute indicators appear in white for enhanced legibility.

A bright silver GS logo rests below the 12 o’clock marker, followed by the Grand Seiko lettering in white. Above the 6 o’clock position, you’ll find reminders of the watch’s automatic movement and its high-beat 36,000 frequency, both in white, while the GMT lettering is presented in a yellowish-lime green, matching the GMT hand.

A sleek date window sits at the 3 o’clock position, framed in polished silver with black numerals on a white background. Each element of this watch stands out individually yet comes together harmoniously. While the dial is undeniably the highlight, it’s hard to overlook the way the seconds hand glides smoothly around the face, reminiscent of a hummingbird in flight. This dial exudes a sense of calm like no other watch I’ve worn.

Movement

How does this watch perform the way it does? In true Grand Seiko fashion, the in-house Caliber 9S86 is a mechanical hi-beat 36000 GMT that is yet another embodiment of the brand’s mission to craft a movement that is high frequency, accurate, and durable. 

The Caliber 9S86 offers an astonishing daily accuracy rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day and a 55-hour power reserve; these same specs are provided on its predecessor, the Caliber 9S85. 

The main difference between the two movements is, of course, the GMT complication integrated into the 9S86. The GMT hand tracks the home time zone, while the hour hand can be adjusted by pulling the crown to its first position, making it easy to set according to the local time zone when traveling.

Since the hour hand can be independently adjusted, it won’t interfere with the second hand, allowing for a quick correction without compromising the accuracy of the Hi-beat 36,000 movement. This means you can pull the crown, adjust the time, and the watch will maintain its precision.

I’ve mentioned the Hi-beat 36,000 several times without fully explaining it, so here’s the breakdown: Most mechanical watch movements operate at 21,600 to 28,800 vibrations per hour, which equals six to eight beats per second. 

Grand Seiko engineered the Hi-beat movement to run at 10 beats per second, or 36,000 vibrations per hour, significantly improving accuracy. This is made possible by Grand Seiko’s use of Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems (MEMS) technology, introduced in 2009, which enables the creation of highly precise components similar to high-powered semiconductors.

Thanks to the precision of MEMS technology, it produces parts that make the overall movement lighter, more durable, and significantly more accurate than standard mechanical watches. Leave it to the developers at Grand Seiko to continually push the boundaries, ensuring each timepiece isn’t just a product but a genuine advancement in horology.

Bracelets and Straps

The strap on our SBGJ259 looks like a mixture of a sports bracelet and a dress bracelet. It feels light and more flexible than most bracelets, but that seems to be the standard with most Grand Seiko bracelets. 

It comes in the Grand Seiko five-link design with matted large links, and Zaratsu polished smaller links. It also features rolled bevels and polished side faces. The contrast between the brushed and polished finish on the bracelets stands out when paired with the case. 

The bracelet is secured by screwed links and includes half-links on each side for adjustments, although the clasp lacks micro-adjustment holes. The clasp itself is a single-fold steel design with a twin-trigger release, and the GS logo is elegantly engraved on the satin-finished buckle.

With a 19mm lug width, the “Urban Bamboo” may limit your options for replacement straps. However, switching straps is made easier with drilled lugs for quick changes.

On The Wrist

The SBGJ259 is an absolute delight to wear. I don’t travel as much, but luckily, I had to take a trip to the other side of the country while testing out this beauty. It is a fantastic hybrid of a dress watch and a tool watch. I didn’t plan on going to the beach with the “Urban Bamboo,” but I thought since it was the last days of summer, why not take this bright, fun watch out in the sun?

I did not regret my decision whatsoever. The dial on the SBGJ259 shines under the brightest of lights. The shades of green, the faceted Dauphin hands, the Zaratsu finished case; all these elements came together in beautiful harmony. I basked in its near-holographic appearance and was entranced by the details of the dial time and time again.

This watch can also be worn for a special occasion. It is comfortable to wear with a long sleeve and doesn’t interfere with the outfit whatsoever. I had to wear it (I didn’t have to wear it, but when you’re given a chance to wear a Grand Seiko, you better take advantage of it) to a three-day work conference, and it never got in the way of anything except the workflow whenever someone noticed the dial and came up to ask what I was wearing. 

Light, compact, and elegant, the SBGJ259 is a great everyday watch for anyone wanting to wear a fun timepiece with revolutionary technology and a dial with a color that is rare in the GMT market. 

Price & Availability

The SBGJ259 “Urban Bamboo” is a US-exclusive watch with a retail price of $6,800. The pre-owned price for this piece comes out to around $5,000, according to WatchCharts. This watch is available today at Exquisite Timepieces. 

Closing Thoughts

This watch is different. Looking at the “Urban Bamboo,” I appreciated the time and craftsmanship that went into creating something so beautiful. This isn’t just a watch—it’s a work of art, as can be said for many of Grand Seiko’s nature-inspired dials. To me, the SBGJ259 is art in its purest form. If it can move you, stir emotions with a glance, or change how you view something, then it isn’t just a watch anymore. The SBGJ259 is a Grand Seiko masterpiece.